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    • Mike

      Ongoing DDoS Attack causing Forum Slowness   26/04/17

      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".

Giorgio N

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Giorgio N last won the day on November 13 2012

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About Giorgio N

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    Blabber Mouth
  • Birthday 22/07/69

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  1. Bianco Avorio was not a true white but more of a light cream. The chip shown may be too dark and brown, but a chip on a computer monitor would hardly be the right way to judge a paint. I would suggest searching for the Vitochart, a collection of chips painted during the War by an Italian enthusiast who got them painted using the actual paints on the production lines. Later this chart was printed and sold.
  2. Short list of Italeri errors : Wrong shape of radiators (can be replaced) Sloped wheel wells sides (modify or live with it ) No proper wing-fuselage fairing (scribe a line or add plasticard ) Wrong fuselage section around cockpit, with straight instead of curved sides (impossible to correct) The IX adds some more errors (short nose, mg position differs on upper and lower wing, prop is a joke). It's also not a good fitting kit. Good points? Cheap and easily available. Personal opinion: don't bother
  3. As promised here's the picture of the modified 02 coat. Much better IMHO ! Unfortunately the differences between the various areas are not too visible. I often make this mistake, I go easy on this aspect and forget that the following clear coats will tone down the finish. The effect would be subtle as I like it at the moment, but may not survive the next few steps. One of the good things of using Vallejo paints is that they dry quickly so I could use some spare time in the morning to add not one but two coats of RLM 71, again a lighter base coat followed by a darker "glaze". Here's the final effect I like the finish, for some reason the green doesn't look great in the pictures but looks good to the naked eye. I often have problems in correctly reproducing greens with my camera, guess some day I'll have to run a proper calibration... Masks were made using the Eduard Bf.109E royal edition instructions as a pattern: I downloaded these in pdf format, cut and pasted the upper view into Corel Draw, modified the size to match the 1/72 model and printed. Then I cut the 02 areas and applied them on the model, slightly raised to allow some light overspray I have yet to finish the cowling as I've not overpainted yet the lower yellow areas. I'll do this freehand to reproduce the feathered effect that Eduard suggests in their instruction sheet. There are also a couple of spots that need touch-ups. With the model so painted, the next step will be to add the various repainted areas under the individual letter and add some 02 mottling in the tail area. This will require more masking but for the moment I preferred to remove everything apart from the masks on the white band for one simple reason: I'll be taking a week off tomorrow and I don't want to leave tape on for too long. When back, I'll mask where needed and start painting again...
  4. View on economics have nothing to do with being part of a parliamentary right or left, even less so with being extreme right or left. As the link posted by Jessica well explained, German National Socialism was a right wing movement, deeply rooted in the nationalistic environment in which many other right wing movements found their birth. That some in the NSDAP may have had relatively socialist views has little importance. These socialist views were in any case limited to certain aspects of the control of production assets and to putting production above finance. Even the most "leftists" of Hitler's friends like the Strasserists never had anything like Soviet Russia in mind and in any case any vestige of revolutionary ideas in the NSDAP was extirpated during the so called Night of the Long Knives through the murder of anyone in the party with such views (together with many others). The NSDAP was also heavily funded by the owners of some of the most important private enterprises in Germany, something that I'm pretty sure wouldn't have happened had the Party showed real communist views... That the far right and the far left sometime show more than one point of contact is another story, and actually a very interesting one, but I feel that I've already digressed too much.. So, speaking of the movie, I personally feel that we're making a big fuss out of very little here... fair enough, today in the US the name given in those days to the dog is a pejorative word that is better not used. I can understand the feelings of those who feel offended by the word, if sticking to the historical accuracy of a small detail is going to offend others let's change a name. If the name of the dog is changed, is this going to be a big deal ? Don't think so, in the end a movie on this raid has a lot more to show, the Dambusters epic is about the courage of the aviators, the ingenuity of the persons behind the idea, the perseverance of those who worked to make these missions possible. Accuracy is in correctly showing these aspects, a name of a dog, even if it was a code word for the mission, is just a detail. It's like trashing a model because there's a small difference in the font of a code. As for transmitting History to the new generations... well, we're talking about a movie here ! A movie, no matter how accurate it is, is meant to entertain first, any educational value is down in the list of important aspects. If we want education, that's what documentaries are for. Want the kids to learn History ? Take them to a museum, buy them books and show them documentaries. If this movie is finally produced and ends up having a different name for the dog, take the kid to the cinema first, then to the RAF museum and mention the dog name if you want. And if you want them to know more of History, talk to them about slavery too, they would understand why many find the N word offending. The past has witnessed much worse alterations of historical facts and the world has survived. A lot of what people think they know about Roman emperors is the result of negative propaganda from their successors and names of pharaos were deliberately cancelled from monuments they had built. We read works like the Iliad often forgetting that they are works of art and we celebrate even today achievements of people we call great men while in other parts of the world they are known as butchers.. yet historians manage to find the facts and make them available for everyone in books. Actually even amongst people like us, who consider ourselves enthusiasts, I'm pretty sure that most have plenty of inaccurate views about historical facts, even facts related to something like WW2 or even more recent events. Only a few months ago there was a thread on the Vietnam war where almost everybody mentioned Australia as the largest contributor to the war after the US... how many did know that South Korea contributed 5 times more men than Australia ? And there are many other examples... Does that make us lesser men or women ? No, just shows that nobody knows everything and that each of us considers the knowledge of some facts more important than the knowledge of other facts. Fortunately however all facts are constantly researched and made available for us to find, maybe by accident, even if the first time we heard of a certain battle was in a movie that geve the dog the wrong name... Ok, sorry for the long rant, I'm going back to modelling related stuff now !
  5. That's an impressive kit ! Gabor, thanks for sharing these pictures, I'm very tempted to buy one. I also have to say that when I see links like those posted by Serge I feel a strong urge to try and learn Russian, I know I can get google to translate the page but the results are not the same... there must be a lot of great modelling information in Russian language and not being able to accees this makes me mad
  6. The information about that particular resin yellowing was given to me directly by the shop owner, who is a very nice fella and knows a lot about the problems we modelers may have. To be fair he also said that their resin showed some moderate yellowing over a few years, so maybe I should have just tried. I have discussed this with other modellers and someone mentioned that some resins are better than others, not surprising of course. Guess your only option is to ask around to other local modellers and see what the products you can find are like. IIRC the latest Prochima clear resin should be very good from this point of view but I don't know if this is available outside Italy. The one I buy here is not from Prochima but from a German company, never had problems with the standard type or the rubber and the shop is not far from home, another good reason to choose this one What everybody told me is that clear resin cast in rubber moulds need a lot of care to avoid bubbles. Of course, all resins have this issue but if on a coloured resin part I only have small bubbles inside the part, it's no big deal while the same bubbles would totally spoil a canopy.
  7. The link posted above by Jack explains well the reason behind the numbers used to describe Italian WW2 paints, and the presence of 2 numbering systems, one "invented" by researchers for the different colours of the "serie mimetica" and one for the officially numbered colours of the Tavola 10. Today we know even more about the colours used and therefore some of the info included in the linked page has been surpassed by more recent research. In particular the interior paints are now better known and we know that not only there were also a grey primer and a yellowish one together with the green ones, but grey paints were used in cockpits much more often than previously thought. This grey could both be a primer but also a coat painted over the green primer. Another error (that some publications have passed on without checking) is that the so-called "verde anticorrosione" has been proposed for any type of surface... however these colours, as the name implies, were used to protect aluminum alloys from corrosion, so they were not used on other materials. That the S.79 didn't have Verde Anticorrosione is not an exception because SIAI didn't like the colour, simply this aircraft had a mixed metal/fabric fuselage and the primers for these materials were not in green, and so happened for other types. Some of the schemes proposed in the link have also been disproved over the years, in particular the use of the green-on-green scheme on the CR.42 In any case the work mentioned in the link was the basis for all other research on the colours used by the Regia Aeronautica in WW2, it may contain some errors but it was a massive effort and most is still valid today many years after the publication of the first edition of the volume.
  8. Glad to see this one completed.. ok, almost completed, but painting the guns will be a quick job Good job on what isn't really the easiest kit around
  9. I think I've sorted the 02 problem now. As anticipated, I've prepared a darker and greener shade (simply the same original Vallejo paint with less light grey added) and then sprayed this to accentuate panel lines and other features. This is a standard technique for me and many others. Where I use a different approach from others is in the use of Vallejo's Glaze Medium. This is a medium that when added to any Vallejo paint turn them into a glaze, that is a semi-transparent paint. Such a paint allows me to add more or less of the upper coat just by insisting more or less on the chosen areas. In this case, I focused more on the panel lines and areas in shade but also sprayed the whole surface with light coats. In this way I managed to turn the finish to a more accurate green-grey while adding depth to the finish at the same time. What's the difference between using the Vallejo Glaze Medium and the more common use of highly thinned paint ? Simply that the consistency of my mix is similar to that of standard paint and as I don't like working with highly thinned paint I find it easier to work with the usual consistency. I've been using this method for a few years now and I'm very happy with it. As for a picture of the current finish.. that will have to wait til tomorrow, taking a picture now in artificial light is not going to show the finish well
  10. yes, the various overpainted areas in particular makes this scheme let's say interisting... hope I can manage to reproduce this decently This model is really moving fast on my bench. fortunately the assembly posed no drama so I managed to get to the painting stage quickly. How will I reproduce the scheme ? I've painted the "stripes" using thinned acrylics. The picture I linked above shows that these are actually quite well defined, with very little overspray. I hope that the solution I used works fine. Then I masked the lower and side surfaces and started spraying RLM 02. Ok, I know I should have taken a picture of the stripes before masking... anyway, first coat of (lightened) 02 is now on I'm not sure about my mix, I feel that the resulting colour is a bit too grey. In any case I'll then pass with a darker, greener paint to add some depth to the surface. This hopefully will capture the character of this colour better. Some of the tests I've done for the stripes are visible on the engine cowling. The thicker line is the most representative of the stripes as they are now. Since the cowling will be painted with a solid 71 coat, the stripes there will disappear. The flaps are being painted separately, as I want to pose them open and feel that things will be easier this way. Of course when the time will come to add the RLM 71 areas, I'll have to at least put the flaps in position to mask them correctly
  11. I feel your pain, pre-painted PE parts look great but are sometime a nightmare to work with. Belts in particular are troublesome, they look great on the sheet but using them is often very hard. There are moments when I feel that an old fashioned decal is still the best option... fortunately technology improves constantly and there are now other types of belts that seem to work pretty well
  12. I'd follow Eugenio advice here, better replace all tubing of the actuators with rods and tubes. Having a brand new inner rod allows you to alter the length slightly to fit the final geometry of the landing gear
  13. Some interesting ideas regarding the eligibility or not of subjects built by international consortia with British participation, thanks to all for sharing their thoughts and please, keep 'em coming ! IMHO what is important is the extent of the British participation and how the subject is generally felt as "British". With the Tornado for example the British participation was important, the exported aircrafts came from the British assembly line and these had quite a lot of British content. The participation of British industries in the Airbus projects is a topic that would deserve a book considering how much and how often things changed. The content of British design may have been important on some types, however I don't think anyone would really feel that these aircrafts "are British". Personally I would leave them all out. BAe also had a part in other programs, for example the Gripen, yet none of us would include the Gripen in a list of British types. In the same way as Grumman contributed to the Tornado program but nobody would ever list the Tornado as a US type. Fortunately the number of subjects that could lead to confusion is relatively limited, I'm sure we can find an easy to apply rule Regarding license built subjects, I agree that we have to be consistent, that's why I proposed to check how different the subject is from the original, having this working both ways. A Macchi built Vampire is identical to a DH built one, so IMHO this would be eligible. The abovementioned Argus is so different that it's a different aircraft. Of course there are cases where the differences may not be so clear, like in the example made by Botan of the Polish 7TP. I may add the Australian variants of the Lincoln to this kind of subjects (I have yet to make my mind on this): I'm sure there are other controversial subjects (is the Olifant tank British or South African?), should the GB go ahead (fingers crossed...) we'll try to have a simple rule. If we can't, we'll have to decided on a case by case basis. Other "abroad" GBs ? I'd be all for it ! We already had a GB dedicated to exported Soviet/Russian hardware and was very succesful, I'm sure that similar GBs dedicated to other countries would be of interest too. In a similar mood, we could also think of a GB dedicated to foreign hardware in British use, something that I suspect would raise interest among modellers of military vehicles
  14. That's great, added your name to the list. We're almost there... And with you we've hit the 30 interested members target ! If I got the rules for grup builds right this means we're going to the poll at the end of the year. Thanks to all who expressed their interest ! Of course other interested parties can join with their names and of course, once the GB is set up anyone can join regardless of their original expression of interest.
  15. Good idea ! I had to do the same on the 1/72 kit, IIRC the radiator pipes go around the actuators very tightly. At least in your kit Hasegawa has represented the actuators accurately, in the 72 kit they are very short