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About 825

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  • Birthday 02/25/1955

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    Fleet air arm
    8th Army and the Western Desert
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  1. I think CMK did a resin TF5. It's strange Valom originally did a Sabre engined Firebrand a number of years ago. I've got a couple in the stash, bought thinking they were the definitive TF4/5 version. Though now Valom do both a TF4 and a TF5 in a few liveries. Not a Tamigawa or recent Airfix in quality but eminently buildable and should turn out well.
  2. The exhaust added. It's probably a little overscale but it does added some much needed detail. I had painted it and dry brushed it to slightly stained look but cutting it and drilling it out, followed by some awkward manoeuvring to get it into place meant I've rubbed most of it off so will need redone. I don't propose much staining as the Skeeters didn't spend long with the Navy, they were just trialled before being handed on.
  3. As @ckw outlined there are more than one way to go about it. There are two really important things. The first is to find a way that suits you. And the other, irrespective of what method you use is to use really sharp scalpel blades and replace them frequently if they start to 'drag' or stick. You can usually get a box of 100 non sterile blades of Amazon or similar at a pretty reasonable cost.
  4. That's one way to go, use thin parallel strips and paint the horizontal frames, let dry, take off the tape, then mask the vertical frames, though this is more challenging as the canopy curve has to be dealt with. Tamiya do thin 1 and 2mm flexible tapes that do conform. It works and a number of people are fans. You might think it's time consuming but is probably a lot less so than painstakingly trying to cut tape into precise masks for each pain. I use (when I don't have a mask set) of masking each pane using small strips of tape, to work around it. By using a length of strip a bit shorter than the length to mask fitted into one corner along the frame, you then overlap one coming the reverse direction and so work round the pane and move onto the next pane. As you go along you burnish the tape into the canopy to make a good seal. It's painstaking and slow but gives good results. The strips don't need to cover the whole pane on the canopy only the edges if you're brush painting, just use a fine brush and be careful. As I model a lot of naval subjects there are a lot of glasshouses to be masked and I find it works for me.
  5. 825

    HMS Victory

    It is small and masking the yellow/black hull sides will be a challenge. But that's for later, there's a fair amount of cleaning up needed. It hails from 1956 so is a year younger than me but I have significantly less flash hanging off my bits than it does. I see filing and sanding in my future with a little bit of filling before any glue or paint is applied. Sounds a good approach but as I outline above I'll have a go at painting it in the livery on the box. It certainly looks how it currently is in the Royal Dockyard in Portsmouth, and there's a good walkround in the relevant BM section so handy resource easily accessed.
  6. My second contribution. Valom's recently (re-)released Blackburn Firebrand. A beast of a post war FAA Torpedo Fighter. I have a Mark 2 with a Sabre engine in the stash but until recently haven't seen one of the definitive TF 4 or 5s. I don't know if this is a new release but it's a bit mixed with some sublime engraving and resin but some indistinct moulding and an elderly looking sheet of etch. Although not a success by any matter of means, it is a pugilistic looking beast. Also my father worked on them while in the FAA but I'm not sure whether it was in Squadron service or on one of the support bases. Here's the box There are 3 plastic sprues, not really many injection parts, but certainly all the big parts. Some nicely moulded resin, although this picture doesn't really do it justice. Unfortunately, the top of the control column has gone amiss. A piece of etch and a couple of vac form canopies. Which is why I wonder if it's a really-release as Valom's have been injection moulding canopies for some time now. Nice transfer sheet with transfers for two early liveried aircraft. And a 12 page instruction sheet. I bought a mask set for it as well.
  7. 825

    HMS Victory

    In theory this will be a simple build from a gift set bought in Lidl for £4 earlier this year. It's only got 19 parts and has the paint needed, as well as a simple paint brush. There are only a few parts but there will be a bit of cleaning up done. Simple one page of instructions. And an absolutely georgeous transfer sheet including a multicoloured one for the transom. And a bag of paints and cement. All you need need to make an Airfix classic. So off we go.
  8. 825

    In the Navy Chat

    I'll be joining in soon with an eclectic pair. I picked up HMS Victory. Lidl for £4 earlier this year and although it's old I thought why not, it's only got 19 pieces and the box comes with all the paints needed pretty much, along with a brush and some glue. 825 junior graduated from Portsmouth University las t year and we have a soft spot for HMS Victory's home port This is more challenging proposition all together being short run, loads of etch, resin and vac form canopies. But this one goes the other direction as my dad worked on them when he was in the Navy. So number 2 will be Valom's Firebrand. If time time permits then I'll do a Martlet, possibly this one in a Royal Navy livery.
  9. A bit of detail done. First a tube which could be an air inlet or outlet. Made from a piece of plastic tube that I think was a paint brush protector. I drilled a hole in the fuselage and then reamed it out with a file before glue it in with cyano. It's not perfect but looks OK. This meerkat shaped piece of sprue will suffice once painted, trimmed and drilled out for the exhaust pipe on the other side which protrudes behind the undercarriage.
  10. You can't see much in the Hasegawa cockpit once everything is closed up so apart from adding some seat belts/harness the transfers do the job with what's already there. I'm threequarters the way through finishing one as a FAA GR9 in the centenary livery. Although it's a good shape and everything fits reasonably well as one would expect from Hasegawa I was disappointed by the number of ejection pin dimples and pins that had to be filled and/or sanded down. Not what I would have expected even from a slightly older kit. I thought I'd have a look at the Revell Gr7/9s in the stash and they're the same kit. As I've seen the Hasegawa version at close to £30 I'm glad I got the Revell ones significantly cheaper when Modelzone closed down.
  11. Framing finished and some paint on the rotors. I've sealed the frames with Kleer as the adhesive loosens as soon as it gets wet. I didn't quite get the white band on the tail rotor in the right place so I'll sand it down a little and repaint it. Nowhere near the detail as on Ced's but my excuse is its small and my fingers big and clumsy. After all the masking on the tail rotor, I think I might have got away with hand painting. It will be the metal front edge that will be the challenge. Now to get on with adding some sticky out bits before finding some transfers.
  12. My aircraft interest is primarily planes of the Fleet Air Arm, going way back to the RNAS. There are loads of options and a weird collection of WW1 and interwar resin models sit in my stash waiting for me to pluck up courage to start them. There are a lot of mainstream: Airfix/Revell/Tamiya/Hasegawa, for the common WW2, and Harriers but my stash and builds are driven by the aircraft or helicopter so I've kits from a whole variety of manufacturers. And of varying quality and buildability. However, for some aircraft or helos they are (or were when I built them) the only game in town. I usually stick to 1:72 as it's what I grew up with in the golden years of Airfix, Frog, Matchbox and Revell. My major influence is my dad served in the FAA in the post war period, so much is as a remembrance of him as well as memories of air days at places like Lossiemouth and Prestwick. I dabble in AFVs mainly from the western desert again in the 1:72/76 scales. Again mainly classics from the Airfix and Matchbox ranges but I have been impressed recently by the accuracy and build ability of the Plastic Soldier Company range. I know they're primarily for wargamimg but I enjoy the fact they don't really take a lot of time to build but look good at the end of the day.
  13. I've been away for the last week so nothing has been done. Today I've done a little, some transfers to bulk up the canopy framing and some filler under the canopy to try and smooth off the transition. I'll leave it to firm up overnight before smoothing it off. Mind you I'll have to up my work seeing Ced's brilliant modelling on his Skeeter.
  14. So today I've painted the ends of the main rotor and the tail rotor with a couple of coats of white and started to bulk up the framing on the canopy. I initially used a very thin strip of Aluminium decal but checking with photos of the real thing my attempt looked really puny so I've bulked them up a bit. There's a limit to what can be done at one sitting as the adherence of the strips isn't great if you subsequently expose them to water when putting the next strip on. I've put a thin layer of Kleer over the work so far so it should be nice and solid when I start again tomorrow. I've also added the struts for the second undercarriage leg/wheel since then took the photo and rubbed down the rougher parts of the paintwork. I'm not 100% happy with the canopy/body join. I think my skills and standards have improved since I started this little one. I'm reticent to do too much for fear of damaging what's already done but the front especially isn't great. I might try some Krystal Kleer followed by some PPP, a little at a time.
  15. If anyone's interested the KUTA is here.
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