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Bandsaw Steve

RMS Carpathia, Scratchbuild, 1/500 Scale

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33 minutes ago, Bandsaw Steve said:

But that will be a while in the future.

Gidday again, I reckon always have models planned for the future - it keeps the Grey Matter ticking over. Regards, Jeff.

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2 hours ago, JohnWS said:

Thanks Steve for spending the time to rewrite the above post.  

 

I'm sure he could have put a bit more effort into it if he really tried y'know.  

 

 

3 hours ago, Bandsaw Steve said:

This is to stop seagulls that are overcome with smoke from falling down the chimney.

 

another one of life's mysteries solved... thanks!

I knew seagulls were partial to McDonalds but never realized they had evolved to roll their own

 

Now if only we can stop them from stealing beer...  damn too late!

drunk_seagull.jpg?w=640

 

 

nice funnel!

 

 

 

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A Tricky Bit

 

Part of the reason that I post all of this nonsense is that one day someone might read something here that helps them solve a problem that they might have been fretting about.

I had been 'sweating' this next step for some time but can now show you what I did and how I got to, what I consider, a fairly satisfactory outcome.

 

Running along the gap between the promenade deck and the boat deck there is a long row of evenly-spaced, thin, upright columns or posts and I was not sure how to go about representing these.  I needed a method that would be tidy, strong and convincing to the eye and was not sure how to go about it. It took a few attempts and a variety of different materials and methods but the sequence below is what worked in the end.

 

Take a piece of aluminium litho-plate sheeting (the stuff that the printing industry uses for lithographic printing) and stick the boat-deck plans onto. Use tin-snips to cut it to the correct shape.  Drill out and shape the bung-hole for the funnel and one or two other fittings that will come along later.

XceLdpO.jpg

 

Use some dividers to mark out the exact position of each of the posts.

aaTU6D3.jpg

 

Use a drill press to drill out a series of very small diameter holes along the side of the boat deck.

v2llhrA.jpg

 

Fit a series of cut brass rods into the holes and use two part epoxy to hold each in place.  I've learned that you must use glue because you cannot solder brass to aluminium. Note that in this photo only some of the posts are made from brass, most are made from plastic rod but after fitting them all I decided that the plastic ones weren't strong enough and replaced the lot with brass.

24WyChi.jpg

 

I found that if you cut each bit of brass too long you can glue it into place and have the excess stick through the other side into a blob of blue tack. This will hold the rod nice and straight while the glue sets. 

XNzj4jj.jpg

 

Once the araldite has set you can turn the workpiece over and slop some super-glue on from above... just to be sure.

Rzvjp01.jpg

 

Then you can snip the excess 'sticky-uppy bit' off and sand to a nice smooth finish.

vEt9roB.jpg

 

After priming I had something that looked like this, which was about as good as I could hope for. Each post is in effect just hanging in space. They aren't attached to the promenade deck at all, but it doesn't matter as you can't really see that on the model itself since the base of each column is obscured by the bulwark. 

n8XLiC9.jpg

 

So there we go; a tricky-bit dealt with and a new preferred building material discovered. This litho-plate stuff is really good!

If you want to see some real masterwork using litho-plate then hop over the aviation section and have a look at some of @airscale work. It's eye-wateringly good!

 

Bandsaw Steve 

 

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Fascinating stuff.  Just curious though Steve why, given that the uprights aren't load bearing in any way, that you felt the plastic ones wouldn't be strong enough?

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Good point Chewie. The explanation as written makes no sense really. The full explanation is that At first I just tried to aryldite the plastic columns directly onto the litho-plate without drilling a hole first - butt-joining each one. This seemed to work ok and was definitely quick but It was clear that each piece was quite flimsy and there was a risk that I might damage them during handling. So I snapped off a few, drilled some holes and tried fitting some brass rod. It was far stronger and looked much better as the brass thickness was more to scale so then I just pressed-on and did them all in brass.

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Neat solution to a tricky problem. There must be something in the beer down there :clap2:

 

Kev

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Derricks 

 

Back in the day when ships moved more around the globe than just sea-containers full of stuff that was loaded up 'somewhere else' every ship had it's own built in cranes called derricks.

 

Qu:  What do you call a (insert nationality that you wish to belittle here) that can lift heavy loads onto a ship.

Ans: Derrick! 

 

And so we have 'humour'...  😧

 

Anyhow, Carpathia had a bunch of them - cranes that is, not people who we wish to belittle - and now I have to make a rough representation of them. I say a 'rough representation' because as time was running shorter and shorter prior to WASMEx my pretense towards any form of 'accuracy' was getting thinner and thinner.  Here you can see a profile view of the rear of the ship with a couple of derricks quite visible.

JDA5SLO.jpg

 

I chose to make mine out of fine brass tube and will bring to your attention once more this rather fine little 'el-cheapo' tube cutting machine that I bought in Hong Kong a couple of years ago.  I bought this on a whim, and at the time greatly feared that I had wasted some money. However, the thing has actually proved really handy and now that I'm doing more and more with brass I have found that I am using it quite frequently.

GzFQfGN.jpg

 

As per my developing interest in soldering I made this very simple little jig that holds the brass tubes exactly in place. In jigs like this I have found a very good use for two of my least-favourite types of wood. White 'pinus-radiata' which I find generally too 'chippy' and 'knotty' for fine work makes a good inexpensive disposable backing to the jig. Balsa can be glued very quickly to the backing and - because it's soft - will sort of 'grip' the brass and hold it exactly in place. This little jig only took a few minutes to make and essentially guaranteed that both of the derricks in this sort of 'gallows' configuration would be identical.

b8ObYm0.jpg

 

Once soldered they looked like this.  Note that I also soldered a sort-of 'blobby bit' on the top of each upright to prevent there being a hole on the top.  See, that's called attention to detail is that!

lnQ4ykh.jpg

 

By now time was running very short so I formed the main derricks by taking a shortcut; simply bending the brass tube into the 'correct' shape...

mAeDLXi.jpg

 

… and dropping them into some holes that I had drilled and lined with some larger diameter bits of brass tube.  Pretty rubbishy really, but it looks OK if you stand back and view it from about 10 meters.

gRJlMQ8.jpg

 

Now I found that I could add some 'detail'. A while back I had bought a bunch of these fine brass pin-like things from a jewellery supply store. Here I found that they slipped exactly and snuggly into the brass tubes that I had made the derricks from. This allowed me to create a tidy and slightly more detailed looking termination to the end of each crane. ‘S arm. This is a good example of complete 'imagineering'. I doubt that the real thing looked much like this at all.

cdpCdPW.jpg

 

Nevertheless, to the uninformed - and I'm definitely one of those - the little sticky outty knobby ends on the cranes look sort of convincing and they will certainly assist me in attaching guy ropes to later on.

vOK3BYb.jpg

 

So - that's about it for this update.

I'm determined to finish this thread because - as those of you who are familiar with early Peter Jackson films will know...

 

Derricks Never Quit! :penguin:

 

Best Regards,

Bandsaw Steve

 

 

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