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Everything posted by ArnoldAmbrose

  1. No, never too old. Although I understand a tendency to stay with preferred methods and materials. With me it's mainly styrene (plastic) but I've been considering wood for hulls of ships I can't get kits of in my preferred scale (1/600). I think each material has good points and bad, I think it all comes down to what each of us like. I'm looking forward to seeing what you do for details, such as guns, screws/propellers and such. Regards, Jeff.
  2. Gidday LLDave, I'm interested in your Yamato model. Does it have four secondary triple 155mm turrets or two? Mine had four, an early version of the ship. Regards, Jeff.
  3. Gidday Dennis, APAF? You could throw in a "Democratic" into the title somewhere. DAPAF, or ADPAF? And an emblem of a kangaroo with a red star background, holding a hammer and sickle. The mind boggles. It should be interesting what you come up with. Regards, Jeff.
  4. Agreed! Think what he could do with bits of MDF and Jarrah. Regards, Jeff.
  5. Gidday, I like the way you made the keel. The model is shaping up more with each post. Regards, Jeff.
  6. Gidday, there is a slight difference between Birmingham and Sheffield - the bow. Sheffield had the knuckle as did nearly all RN WW2 cruisers but Birmingham was unique of that vintage cruiser in that it didn't, instead having a flared bow like a destroyer instead. That shouldn't affect deck plans though. Regards, Jeff.
  7. Gidday David, I believe the USN lost three destroyers late war in the Pacific due to a typhoon. I think this was the incident (or similar) that Herman Wouk portrayed in his book "The Caine Mutiny" when USS Caine came upon a capsized destroyer. From memory of high school years in the early '70s I thought USS Caine could have been a flush decker or four stacker destroyer in the book but later destroyers were used in the film. This is a very long way of saying that your idea is very plausible. On this build I'm going to try to reattach the lower hull, but if that's not very successful then I have some 'capsizable' hulls from future models. Regards, Jeff.
  8. Gidday John welcome aboard, from the other side of Oz. What type of models do you do? Mainly 1/600 scale ships in my case. Regards, Jeff.
  9. Gidday, and thanks. I must have misinterpreted what I read. It's the only reference I have that mentioned it. The book is "The Destroyers", Australia's Naval Heritage by Vic Cassells. Regards, Jeff.
  10. Gidday Gary, welcome aboard. That workspace doesn't look natural I'm afraid - too neat and tidy. GET SOME CLUTTER! Regards, Jeff.
  11. Gidday All, I have a meagre bit of progress on HMS Onslow to report. Despite my best efforts the cuts to the hull weren't perfect, plus the combined depth of the two halves is still slightly oversize (although to me it doesn't look it). So I attached a large file to a block of wood and have been slowly and laboriously filing away. I've been placing fingers all along the hull and sliding it back and forth along the file. This has helped me get the cut line dead flat. In the background is the lower hull, which has been receiving the same treatment. The photo probably isn't the sharpest but with the large void area behind the hull the camera had trouble deciding what to auto-focus on. I have a book on Australian destroyers and one of the statistics it provides is 'molded depth' which appears to be the sum of the freeboard and the draught, measured amidships. While the freeboard and draft may vary depending on the ship's loading the molded depth remains constant. For this model it should be 9.5mm, measured just behind the break in the hull. I'm nearly there, but I want to reduce it a little more, then slide a sheet of styrene between the upper and lower hulls to aid the join. Hopefully that will be in the next day or two. So that's it for now. Thank you for your comments and interest. Regards, Jeff.
  12. Gidday Brian, you've done a superb job of this. It looks like the boat has had a hard time of it, weather-wise. Very well done. Regards, Jeff.
  13. Gidday Vincent, I think it's well worth protecting this model from dust, it would be a shame to see it ruined by it. If I may make a suggestion regarding photos, next time remove that speaker from behind the model if you can, and try to have a plain background. That way the silhouette of the ship is more evident, with nothing to distract the viewers (us!). My thoughts anyway. You've done a very good model. Regards, Jeff.
  14. Gidday Guy, this is an incredible model you've done. But I don't envy you your masking and painting you're about to do. Regards, Jeff.
  15. Gidday Vincent, welcome aboard. I really do like the USS Kitty Hawk. Regards, Jeff.
  16. Um, he and BBS have already done the Hogwarts Express. But I agree that he's got his momentum up. I've heard a similar method described on how to carve a statue - start with a block of stone or marble and chip away all those bits that aren't a statue! But I agree with the premise, that complex bits are simply a collection of simple bits. She's coming along well, Steve. Regards, Jeff.
  17. Gidday again, the foam keeps the model in place, and at the same time absorbs some of the shock. As your model is much larger just add thicker layers of foam. I've not had any damage during transport, but admittedly I've no delicate PE to worry about. Best of luck, it would be a shame for your Bizzies to miss out on their debuts. Regards, Jeff.
  18. Gidday Guy, I made some boxes for transporting my model ships but they're a bit smaller than yours. I've made half a dozen different sizes, with heavy wood bases for stability and sides high enough to protect the masts. Foam inside stops them bouncing around, and I reach in from both ends to insert or extract the model. Admittedly these models are 1/600 scale Airfix builds but the transport boxes work a treat for me - no damage at all since I've done them. HTH. Regards, Jeff.
  19. Gidday Thekz, I enjoy making some parts also. Mine aren't as good as AM stuff, but it's what I enjoy doing. Your model of HMS Berwick is coming along very well. I think when the ship finally reaches port the crew are going to be rather busy with chipping hammers and paint pots - all that rust! Regards, Jeff.
  20. Gidday Mike, I'm afraid I can't help you as yet although I'd like to be able to. I wish to do a conversion of an Airfix Belfast in 1/600 into HMS Sheffield one day and am on the lookout for plans of the ship too. At the smaller size I probably wouldn't need them as detailed as you but If I find something I'll let you know. Sorry I can't be of any more help just now. Regards, Jeff.
  21. Gidday, I've no idea what lighting would be used in a carrier in wartime, but as this ship was never on active duty and the Germans never had a carrier on active duty I think a little poetic licence is acceptable. It would be a shame to make the hangar decks 'busy' if no-one could see anything inside. My thoughts, anyway. Regards, Jeff.
  22. Gidday All, I've wrapped and glued the sides around the stern of HMS Onslow. Due to the damage to the stbd side at the stern I couldn't get a piece long enough to reach the centre of the stern so the port side had to wrap around far enough to reach it. Hence the join is off centre and at present doesn't look the best. Hopefully with a bit of cleaning up it'll look better. I'll only do a token clean-up at present, until I get the lower hull attached. Which won't be tonight as it's not far off midnight here. So good night All, stay safe and regards, Jeff.
  23. Gidday again, I've got a few 1/350 kits but not made any yet. I got them mainly because I got good deals on them. Two are ICM German battleships of WW1, Konig and Kronprinz. Looking at the kits they don't seam too complex, no PE etc. I might tackle one next year. Other 1/350 modelers could probably give you better advice in this scale. Sorry but that's about all I can help you with. Regards, Jeff.
  24. Gidday Andy, yours is a rather difficult question, without knowing your skill level etc. I personally started full-on ship modeling about 25 years ago with 1/600 scale Airfix kits, and have stayed with them. I like the 1/600 scale but they're almost impossible to get now, mainly out of production as far as I know. The nearest would be 1/700 but you said not too small. I found 1/700 a bit fiddly myself until I got a bit used to the scale. 1/350 obviously bigger, and more expensive. Most modelers here that build in that scale seem to use aftermarket extensively, and do superb models with it, but you said OOB. Also I've only built in styrene injection molded, I've never done anything in resin. To get back to your question, I'd look at something simple as a starter, maybe a destroyer in 1/700, and see how you go from there. But that's just me. Others may have alternative ideas and advice. HTH. Regards, Jeff.
  25. Gidday, seriously, it wasn't that difficult. The hardest part was getting the two waterlines in the right place. The plastic cut easily, and the further along I got the blade had to be laid along the hull, which in itself assisted in a straight cut. Gluing the two halves back together, well, that might be fun. And Guy, while you're behind the sofa have a good look around. I think carpet monsters have been known to hide their left-overs there. You might be surprised what you find. Thanks for your interest and comments. Regards, Jeff.
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