CedB Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 12 hours ago, JasonC said: The apparent framing (note the different colour) around the front panes of the windscreen are the result of the sealing compound at the edges of the glass. A very thin, dark line might be appropriate I suppose. cheers, Jason Thanks Jason - glad to have you along and hope you're well? We must have a coffee sometime... Time to expose the plan on the canopy - I'm going to use some bare metal foil, as I did on the Liberator, to make the frame and vary the finish a bit. Now I know there's no 'front frame' it should be even easier! 12 hours ago, The Spadgent said: Great progress, she's looking really good. For the actuator, you could make a little bibble like that from milliput or even the tip off an old missile. Go onnnnn you know you can do it. Easy work for the mighty Ced. good of luck with the wash. Not too much now y'hear. johnny Thanks Johny - unngghhh. Oh all right, just for you, I'll try again; Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr This time I've concentrated on getting the soup into the bottom of the mold and I'll leave it to cure for much longer. It's too tiny to use Milliput I think - my eyes aren't up to it! 12 hours ago, Dave Swindell said: Ced, a couple of Hornet threads for your reference - not the Special Hobby kit but they throw up lots of useful info, and a lot of the fixes are relevant. John Aero attempting to knock the Trumpeter kit into submission (Page 1 ref the windscreen) David Collins building the Classic Airframes kit Thanks Dave - especially for the links. I spent some time on those threads (even if they're not my scale) and there's some proper modelling going on there, well beyond my skills. I'm certainly not up to David A Collins' 1/1 build in the garage! I'm still taking a 'kit bashing' approach to (hopefully) show what can be done with the basic kit, some bodging and lots of tools. I'm certainly not up to those standards. The references were very helpful though (especially the canopy and tailwheel bits) so thanks again. 10 hours ago, Basuroy said: Good progress so far , looks like a tough kit . Thanks you Sir, very kind It's not that bad I suppose, typical short-run problems but I still have to cope with the butt-join wings and tailplanes so I'd better not speak too soon. 5 hours ago, Basilisk said: Nice progress Ced. Wouldn't it be easier to have them polished before masking and painting? How do you polish them after painting without damaging the surrounding paint? Cheers, Peter Thanks Peter - they have been polished with the Micro-mesh kit down to 12000 so the surface is good. The final stage is not to shape, it's just 'the shine' and I like to leave this until last in case I have problems with paint creep and/or other damage. The micro-mesh is so fine it doesn't take off any paint (if you're careful), it just smooths that too. Famous last words... 35 minutes ago, Biggles87 said: Good work on the wingtip lights and a cunning plan for the tailplanes. Who will know that there isn't an actuator on the one facing the ceiling? John Thanks John Well, we'll all know, of course, but at my age I'll forget within days... let's see what 'mold #2' reveals. deduct one point from the otherwise useful Internet Modeller article. Bit more work on the nacelles this morning. I'm trying to get these 'cleanish' before fitting but the moulds and usual lack of 'wheels up' consideration make it a 'best of a bad job' at this stage: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr I've just realised I've forgotten to fit the exhausts. [Anglo-saxon censored] 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Don't panic (and stop that swearing!) I think these: will go in here: once the slots are enlarged. Phew. I'll clean up the seams first... more later. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Sprue soup and plasticine - exquisitely simple Ced! I shall add that to the Satchel of Pillaged Techniques now. Oh, those exhausts. I'm guessing they have to go on from the inside? Tony Update: ah a retrofit is possible: great! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Thanks Tony - pinched from Bill and Leon, happy to pass on! We'll see if Mk II works out later! Yes, the exhausts have to go in from the insides; they're nice tubey things with a backing. Bit of a pause. Regroup. Calm. I've re-deiscovered Flex-i-files after my visit to the Albion Hobbies site. 'Sands without flat spots' - that's why I bought them! You have to squeeze them to release the tension. Used on the nacelles, course sand first: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr A quick brush off and review... I also watched a video on the Flory website and he says, quite rightly, that if you have white powder in the seams after sanding that indicates not enough glue in the join. I've decided that the answer to that is to blob TET in the gaps and use the powder as a filler. Good idea? Who know, we shall see. I'm also thinking about buying one of those Touch 'n Flow things too - any views? I might just get a bottle thing for CA activator blobbing. Lots of things drying now. Mrs B is out for the day so time to walk Mols. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Enjoying the progress, Ced And I discovered another new (to me at least) modelling tool Ciao 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CliffB Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Glad to see that you are showing this one who is boss Ced. Great work so far. Cliff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Thanks Giorgio - there's an angled version of the file now called 'Stealth'; if you want one I think that's the version to go for Thanks Cliff - very kind Back from a misty walk with Mols: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr with some nice nature to see: Then it was sand, sand, fill, fill. Gosh this plastic is soft. Then it was time to gather some patience and fit the exhausts. I got one positioned and thought "If only I had some CA with a thin tube on it to get in there" and then I remembered I'd just bought some. Tip: when you cut the top off make sure there's no glue in there: I thought I had but obviously not. Now I'm pleased I've ordered some de-bonder (for next time). Oh, and one of those 'touch n flow' sets (you knew I would didn't you?) I'd also bought some tips and tube so assembled this: and used it to blob some CA inside the exhaust slot. Now those are drying: Getting close to fitting the nacelles, finally! Mk II actuator glued - the red Plasticine will get cleaned off when it's dry: 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbudde Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Lovely dog!! (Memories of our one) This seems to be good ( and was) for you constant diet plans. But what about this medicine after walks? ( I couldn't resist to that): Nice progress so far and of course for the fixings. I like the Hornet but mainly, because of the Mosquito. Looks like you tackle a little beast. Good job. Cheers Benedikt 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 It looks like Molly's enjoying life again. I'm a big fan of Flexi-files as I've mentioned before, but three holders! I just use one and change the tapes. John 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyTiger66 Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 (edited) The sprue soup actuator has worked Ced. I think it was a case of, even if you couldn't see it wasn't there, it wouldn't be there. You would know every time you looked up. This way you know you beat it . Nice use of tools on the nacelles. I join in with positive votes for Flex-I-Files. Hard to get refill sets here and quite expensive, but worth it. I've taken note of Benedikt's daily pill dosage box. I will be purchasing one just like it tomorrow, I need that medicine Best regards TonyT Edited March 18, 2017 by TonyTiger66 Grammar 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Thanks Benedikt - I like the dose box! Thanks John - Yep, Mols is back on form; slightly potty. I actually have FOUR frames, one for each grade... I guess I bought the kit! Thanks TT - there's a bit of filling to do on the nacelles but they're fitted now: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr Horrible job, trimming and sanding, dry fit, repeat until the tapered ends fitted the training edge. They're still not level but I think I'll use filler, or maybe a bit of plastic sheet. While the nacelles were drying I chopped the tailwheel and sanded its bottom a bit to get it retracted: I'll fit the wheel after painting (please remind me!). The last bits on the sprue are the bomb and rocket racks: Horrible, nasty rocket rails. They had to go: I didn't have the right thickness strip so two bits were stuck together and sanded to a rough aerofoil shape. Very rough. Then some bits of tube cut to length and fitted: Not up to TheBaron standards but they'll do for the ceiling. There's no avoiding the wing joins now. I feel a Lego jig coming on. Tomorrow. 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Your scratch built rails look way better than the kit ones, Ced! Ciao 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbudde Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 (edited) Looking much better. Little scratching is sometimes very efficient Very good job. Edit : Maybe some alu foil for the little plattforms, missing like on the original parts. Maybe to be put on the weapons? Don't know. Edited March 18, 2017 by bbudde 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Them kit rails were a gurt steaming pile - yours are dead lush Ced! Does the kit give you rockets and do they look like rockets? Tony 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Thanks Giorgio and Benedikt - they're good enough for me on this one, perhaps with some dangly bits on the back. Thanks Tony - no rockets or bombs; weird eh? I almost didn't fit the rack things at all. Fortified with Dutch courage from a G&T I decided to fit the tailplanes. It's not quite a butt join - they're 'faired' at the front - so a bit of TET, some pressure and then support and they're drying now: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beard Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 I'm pretty sure I have some spare rockets and bombs. Let me know if you want them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Thanks Simon, very kind of you, but I think I'll leave them off this time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 8 hours ago, CedB said: Mk II actuator glued - the red Plasticine will get cleaned off when it's dry: Yesssssssss. nice one. Johnny. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basilisk Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 1 hour ago, CedB said: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr Great idea to use this Lego slopes to get the stabilizers horizontal Cheers, Peter 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Dapple Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 There's some excellent modelling going on here Ced, with the wingtip lights, the replacement actuator and those rocket rails are a great improvement - I was going to echo Simon and offer the ones off my Tamiya Mossie but the Hornet will look tidier with the bombs and RPs left off Very nice to see Mollie looking so fit and healthy too Cheers, Stew 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 You're getting very inventive with your jigs/supports, Leggo and Berna clamps, and the tailplane joints look perfect compared to the rest. Looking forward to the main wing joints, I suspect there will be a few more Anglo Saxon words floating about at chez Bufton. Cheers John PS. where do you get your Dutch gin? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 Thanks Johnny Thanks Peter - Lego is great for this sort of thing, a cheap(ish)! Thanks Stew, very kind of you. Molly says 'Woof' to Jack Thanks John Necessity is the Mother of Invention, and this kit is certainly a Mother... 'Dutch Gin'? I think mine (Gordons) is from Scotland... that said, if I drink too much, it does effect my Netherlands Unlike John (who's very kind) I'm not looking forward to the main wing joins. I've taken lots of photos to share the problems but mainly to avoid getting on with it. (I've just changed my Flickr time zone so that pictures taken today appear in today - I thought I'd lost the things!) So what's the 'raw material' like? For some reason the wing locations on the fuselage are angled: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr Which would be great if there was a similar dihedral, but there isn't. The wing roots were assessed in a similar manner (oooh, get me!) So, no 'stick it on and it'll be fine' then. Hmmm. What's the lateral fit like? Not bad, but the resultant dihedral is too angled: The roots by the radiators that I had left unglued proved to be OK so they were glued with CA: and while they were drying I did some research, mainly at this site where there's one of the only diagrams I found that shows the Hornet from the front (on the 'Description' tab). There's very little dihedral - the tops of the wings line up with the tailplanes so I'm going for that. Interesting bits on that site. For later use (while painting) it says that the fuselage and top wing were sheet plywood (I think we knew that?) but that the bottom skin is of Alclad reinforced by extruded duralumin stringers extending from the outer engine-rib to the tip. The Hornet has hydraulically operated split flaps and metal-covered control surfaces. I'll have fun with the paint later. The CA's dry now so let's see what the starboard wing is like. The bottom join is nice, but that dihedral! I've considered lots of easy options to correct the problems, but none seem ideal. Some sort of spar was ruled out early as the inside of the wings is, er, uneven AND I've tried this before and my skills mean it's no guarantee of a good result. I started filing the bottom skin but realised there was too much to come off. So it was taped: and the join examined. There's a gap at the top. Of course. So I decided to shim that and fill later. Of course I thought WWND* and remembered 5 minute epoxy. I'm going to use that because a ) it's quick(ish), b ) it allows wiggle time (but not too much) and c ) it's strong. * for new readers, "What Would Nigel (Heath) Do". One of my modelling gurus and my Obe Wan. 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 can't believe that wing. So it's just a butt joint? Madness, luckily I've never come across one of these. Deftly handled though Ced, it's going to look the business. by the way I forgot to mention but those rails are ACE! ecxcelent modelling. Johnny. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 Thanks Johnny - butt joins seem to be common in these short-run kits, a real pain... The shim was trimmed: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr and repeated on the other side, which actually needed two bits, the second part way down only: then the 'jig' was prepared. With the wings taped on the bottom the alignment was achieved (ahem) by pressing down the nose until the gaps closed: Check the alignment: I then got out the epoxy and a couple of juice carton tops: and examined the join again. Nice. How can I stop that moving and will I get the same good alignment when I'm applying the epoxy? Probably not. As we all know “Everybody has a plan until they get punched in the face.” - Mike Tyson so I decided to 'tack' the joins with TET, and then thought "Why not just glue that with sprue soup?". Why not indeed: I'll leave that to dry and then pull off the tape and glue the bottom with TET. Hopefully. 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 Turned over and glued: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr I'll let that dry over lunch and then it's more filling and sanding. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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