Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Basilisk last won the day on November 1 2015

Basilisk had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2,114 Excellent

1 Follower

About Basilisk

  • Rank
    Obsessed with RIVETS

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

1,334 profile views
  1. Basilisk

    Junkers Ju 87 Stuka STGB - 4 more needed

    Never heard about Eldon kits before, so learned something new Welcome aboard Mark. I am sure you will manage to sneak an Airfix Stuka into your hobby room / corner - it is just another red box Thanks for joining Davey. Your Ju 87R would look great in this GB Cheers, Peter
  2. Basilisk

    Junkers Ju 87 Stuka STGB - 4 more needed

    Thanks for joining Cliff. Looks like 1/100 scale is becoming your favored scale. Didn't even know there is a Stuka in this scale. Of course I can Alistair Six more needed on the list, so don't hold back. Cheers, Peter
  3. Thanks John, but if I ever build another Sea Hawk, I will add the shrouds before gluing the fuselage together. Unfortunately the shapes on this kit are more wrong than right. to me the whole rear fuselage including the fin is too wide which has an effect on many other shapes including the exhaust fairing. Thanks Rich, but would love more progress. Talking about progress, I will be away until late July which wasn't planed, so there won't be any further progress in the time frame of this GB , but plan to continue when I get back. Cheers, Peter
  4. I wouldn't say that. But yourswill be finished within the time frame of this GB and mine won't Scratch building would have been an option, but my CA mixture will do the job too. And yes, I am still working on the Sea Hawk and even made some progress, but at a snail's pace... I filled the gaps and opened up the opening so that I can insert the jet exhaust pipes from the rear. I can now insert the jet exhaust pipes from the rear, but the stop on the pipe can easily be moved over the stop (red circle), so I had to come up with something to stop the pipe disappear inside the fuselage. I made two shrouds which fit around the jet exhaust pipes. It was a bit of a pain in the but to fit them behind the stop and some colourful language was unavoidable But it work. Next was reworking the exhaust fairing which looks a bit odd on the kit. But the problem is to find a picture of this section. Yes there are many on the web But... It all depends if the picture was taken with a tele or wide angle lens I would think that the top picture is more a scale representation. In any case, some re-shaping on the kit was in order. And a good junk had to go. Left is before and right is after the reshaping. And the same from the side. Doesn't look much different I know. But seeing it from this angle does. Fortunately I filled the part inside the fairing with my CA mixture as reshaping the fairing removed all the plastic. It isn't perfect in shape, but it was the best I could do without any major rework. Cheers, Peter
  5. The nose issue is a bit complicated. Visually it looks that the front wheel undercarriage bay is too far back, but I feel that the fuselage is too long. In any case, it is easier to shorten the nose than to move the front wheel undercarriage bay forward. In regards to the jet exhausts, no you didn't miss anything, but it is a good question (and whenever someone is saying "it is a good question", they don't know the answer...). As I thinned down the opening, it is now larger and I still can enter the jet exhausts parts. And with the tail section not yet attached, I can see how things line up. Ideally I like to add them on the finished model due to the painting issues you experienced, but with the tail section in place, it will be much more difficult. Have to work something out when reworking this part of the kit. Cheers, Peter
  6. Great. Thanks Alexey for sharing your work on the rivet pattern. I will certainly make use of it. Cheers, Peter
  7. Thanks for dropping in Gaz. Yes the Zvezda kit is good value, but so is the Eduard Weekend edition. Thanks Pete for joining the jurney. I knew they are trim wheels, so should have named them properly. Thanks John. I to do still have my 1/32 Swiss Me 109E to finish and it will happen one day. Thanks Oberleutnant. A lot of the modern kits have very tight tolerances which can make assembly sometimes a bit tricky. As far as I can see, the Tamiya kit is the easiest in regards to assembly and the Zvezda kit the most challenging as it has lots of assemblies which have no purpose like the separate wing panels. The fit isn't the best and some putty is needed. Unfortunately progress was slow this week as I spent my time with some other builds. As my goal is to have the three kits look kind of the same, which means that the Tamiya and Zwezda kits have to be riveted. Here is the Tamiya upper wing with the lines drawn in pencil where the rivets have to go. Now I just have to follow these lines with my "Rosie the riveter". Also got some resin goodies which will help in adding some extra details and correcting some not so nice features in the kits. Thanks for watching. Any comments and suggestions are always welcome. Cheers, Peter
  8. The RP Tools punch & die set is very nice. They are also great to punch out decals like the dials on the IP. I am sure you will discover many uses for it. Worked on the Tamiya wings this week. I totally forgot to prepare the lower wing to accommodate the Aires parts for the slats. So some more scraping was in order. The outer undercarriage bays and the inner base for the slats in place. And the outer bases for the slats. As you can see, some rails for the slats are missing. No I didn't brake them, I received the parts with them broken. Fortunately they still where in the bag so that I can repair it later. The fitted parts of the undercarriage bay are a bit of an enhancement over the Tamiya rendition. The upper wing needed to be modified to accommodate the resin part. First the Tamiya representation of the undercarriage bay had to be removed. Then some more grinding was needed to make the wing fit without any interference. Looks ok now. But there are some gaps on the outer slat bases next to the engine mount which needs to be corrected before I glue the wings together. Cheers, Peter
  9. Sounds very familiar - most of my models re on the shelf of doom - or I like to call it "work in progress" Not much progress this week, but I managed to sort out the nose job which ended up more complicated than I was hoping for. Reduced the plastic on the nose which removed most of the plastic. So I decided to shorten the nose another mm and then add a plasticard disc to make it all a bit more solid. Bu this created a rather large hole which needed to be filled first. After that was done I carved in the air duct channel prior adding the disk. I did add the opening into the disk prior fitting it to the nose. I think it will look fine when it is painted. I can now smooth out everything, add the lost panel lines and then rivet the front fuselage... Next was the jet exhaust opening. Looks I opened another can of worm there as well. Took things a bit too far when thinning down the edge of the opening, resulting in a rather poor fit of the insert. But nothing my potion of CA with Talcum powder can't fix. Cheers, Peter
  10. Thanks Chris. I thought it will be an easy and quick build as all reviews raved about this kit. But I have the bad habit of comparing models to pictures and this has the potential to open a can of worms But I do enjoy correcting inaccuracies. I realize that not everyone likes to do this and is happy in building a kit out of the box and the Sea Hawk does make a nice model when done like that, just not an accurate one You can see (saw) my riveters I use for 1/48 scale models in my Me 262 build. To me rivets enhance a model nicely, but I also accept that many see them as unnecessary or even wrong. Of course to represent rivets as little holes isn't correct as such (but then, neither are many panel lines), but it gives an illusion of rivets and in my eye they should only be visible if looking close as with a real aircraft. And I do like the process of adding rivets - I guess I am nuts In regards to the Sea Hawk nose, making it right is very difficult as the fuselage curvature has several issue. But I hope it will look better when done. Cheers, Peter
  11. Nice of you dropping by here. The comparison of the Aires part is with the Tamiya kit as the Airfix kit is a wee bit smaller Congratulation on your punch/die set. Which one did you buy? I am sure you will discover many uses for it. My experience with panel scribers is that there is not one which fits all the jobs. I use four for different tasks, but surprisingly found the one made by Trumpeter a good all-rounder to get started. On the other hand, when purchasing a riveter, I would go for a quality tool as the cheep one's (like Trumpeter) are a pain to use. Cheers, Peter
  12. Yes more than I was hoping for As a precaution, I did fill the space with my CA mix prior gluing the fuselage together. After I got the shape of the nose right, I will shorten the nose further and rebuild the opening section with plasticard so that it will hopefully look like this. Does someone know what this hole is actually for? Cheers, Peter
  13. Thanks Rich. Yes I do have a favourite riveter as I found not all riveter are the same. You need a good view to the line you follow, the wheel needs to roll freely but still has no play in it. I found the best are the riveters made by Petr Dousek. They are available from 0.4 to 1mm dot spacing and in single, double and triple row. I don't have the triple row type (see no use for it), but have 10 of the others and they work extremely well. The riveting on the 262 wing is all done freehand with a pencil line as a guide. Cheers, Peter
  14. Basilisk

    Corsair's Me. 262 Schwalbe

    The airbrushing looks very good, but I am not so sure about the tones of the colours as they look very green to me. What brand of paint did you use? The picture below is of a Bf 109G and the aircraft is still in the original German colours 74/75 The contrast between 74 and 75 is indeed not much. You can see the difference between 74/75 on the upper fuselage after the Balkenkreuz) Cheers, Peter
  15. You certainly right in regards to the CA getting harder than plastic, making it difficult to sand back. But that is where Talcum powder comes in. With this stuff mixed into the CA sanding is a breeze. It is also great stuff if you have to scribe over it. Unfortunately not much progress this week as I spent most of my time on the 262. I start riveting the rear end after I reworked the rudder. One thing is sure, no shortage of rivets on the Sea Hawk I used this picture to work out where they go. Also started to re-shape the nose. I already reduced the length by 2mm No I have to reduce the width to the size of the masking tape on the nose. Will be interesting to see how this goes. Hope to get more done this week. Cheers, Peter