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Basilisk

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Basilisk last won the day on November 1 2015

Basilisk had the most liked content!

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About Basilisk

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    Obsessed with RIVETS

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    http://www.skyline-apa.com.au

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    Melbourne

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  1. The smells depend on the resin you use and the stuff I use has hardly any smell. More smelly is the cleaning process using Isopropyl Alcohol, but I do this outdoors. So the process isnt any worth than airbrushing enamel or lacquer paint. And recently there is resin available which can be cleaned with tap water after printing eliminating the IPA smells. Thanks Ed. I too hope to finish it in time. Unfortunately my track record is not very good but I try my best. Cheers, Peter
  2. Certainly would be ideal for printing gaming miniatures. The CAD data has to be an STL file (and there are many STL models to download for free) and then have to be processed by a slicer, which is a software utility preparing the model for printing. The slicer contains all the printer configuration and as the name suggest, slices the model along the Z-axis (hight) so that each "slice" can be printed. Depending on the printers Z-axis resolution, a 10mm tall model can contain 200 slices if the resolution (slice thickness) is set to 0.05mm. Other task the slicer performs is scaling the model so that you can print a copy smaller or larger to what the original model is. Best to have a look at Google and Youtube as there is tons of information available. Cheers, Peter
  3. Great idea to build this kit here instead of binning it and of course you can join, no permission needed. Even though an old kit, I am sure you will enjoy the build. Cheers, Peter
  4. Great to see the Heller kit in the mix Steve. Back in the seventies, Heller kits were top notch and still aren't bad at all! Enjoy your build Cheers, Peter
  5. The printing itself is straight forward but learning the 3D software is a huge commitment. Fortunately I know Solidworks so it took me one evening to create the above model. Some aspects of the 3D model are overscale (like the wall thickness of the ruder pedals) to hopefully compensate for printing resolution limitations. Yes there is certainly no shortage on ejector pin holes and also external plastic shrinkage at lots of locations. Cheers, Peter
  6. You are spot on, unfortunately some replacement parts are as bad as what they should replace. Thanks, I am trying to make it helpful for others too. I spent two evenings fighting the Eduard PE parts and all the bits are now in place which I like to add before painting without loosing anyting to the carpet monster came out all right and I will add some of the pre-painted stuff after the cockpit is painted. Eduard also provides some rudder pedal replacements. They are certainly better than the kit part, but the real pedals look different, mainly with a much higher heel part and two rows of holes in it. I know this is extreme rivet counting, but the Ju 87 is one of the few planes you actually can see the rudder pedals reasonably well. As I purchased a new toy before Christmas in the shape of an Elegoo Mars, I thought I will have a go making my own rudder pedals. Some of you may already know what this monstrosity is. For you who don't, it is a resin 3D printer It uses liquid resin which is exposed to UV light layer by layer which hardens and forms the 3d object. These items are photographed immediately after the printing has finished and before cleaning. And here after the resin is cleaned and fully cured. I downloaded the above models from the web to test the capability of the printer and I was very impressed what can be done. So I designed the parts I like to print in Solidworks yesterday. This is a rendered image of the rudder pedals, radio fuse boxes and oxygen regulators I hope to print. Now it is one thing to print an object 40 by 80mm in size like my test prints, but above part is 8 by 20mm and the individual fuse boxes as an example are 1 by 2mm with a height of 1.2mm. I hope to print the parts on the weekend and will see if it is possible or not. Wish me luck. Cheers, Peter
  7. Interesting story Ed. Looking forward to see your build progress. Cheers, Peter
  8. Indeed not a bad outcome - and it does show that STGBs don't need to be the same popular types over and over Cheers, Peter
  9. Thanks, Happy New Year too. Not really this old and indeed a popular choice. Many kit decals are of the most boring schemes, maybe so that aftermarket decal producers can sell their stuff. Have an enjoyable build. Cheers, Peter
  10. Except on Ju 87A up to B-2 which had the IP in RLM 02 Rules are here to be broken Cheers, Peter
  11. Great to see another large scale model and Rudel's aircraft does look interesting and the canons add to it on top of that Enjoy the build. Cheers, Peter
  12. Sure can. Everyone can join, just start a WIP post hand have fun building your Stuka. Cheers, Peter
  13. Apparently German bombers used RLM 66 for cockpits much earlier than fighter as was seen on some recovered wrecks in Norway I believe. Pictures of the interior in the B-2 pilot manual show a light colour, so most likely RLM 02 and I guess no one knows when the change happened. And with many parts supplied by sub-contractors, there is a good chance that for a while RLM 02 and 66 could be seen in the cockpit. If no picture available the next best thing is an educated guess. Cheers, Peter
  14. Nice choice and great to have a Bulgarian aircraft in the mix and good to know that I am not the only one enjoying researching. Enjoy the build. Cheers, Peter
  15. That what I am afraid off. Most likely a mixture of decals and masks I create on my silhouette printer. The challenge will be the squadron marking. I got started on the kit over the weekend and put the knife to plastic. Not a bad effort by Airfix, but not perfect either. Most new tool Airfix kit just have this short run kit feel to it and are a bit soft in some details. The kit is touted to be the most accurate Berta kit in 1/48 which is most likely true (I haven't measured the part), but when it comes to details, it is a different story - more about this when my build progresses. But I would have preferred Airfix didn't do this halfhearted effort in adding some rivet representations here and there. One thing is sure, the designers of this kit surely had a hidden agenda to place as many as possible of the ejector pins in places to be seen So the first task after cleaning the parts was to fill this indents from the ejector pins in the visible cockpit area. And there is no shortage of them. I decided to add the cockpit side panels not to the floor as per the instructions, but glue them to the fuselage sides instead as this will make the detail painting much easier. And I noticed an odd thing. The port fuselage half has no integrated ribs on the fuselage side, making the insert sitting flush. But that is not the case with the starboard fuselage! There are several ribs interfering with the insert resulting that the insert isn't sitting flash So I removed the interfering ribs from the starboard fuselage half with a gouge. As a bonus, I could glue some of the removed ribs into the port fuselage which has no ribs at all in parts where they are visible after the insert is in place. And at the end the inserts fitted nicely and don't look too bad. I removed the MG bullet cartridges which had been part of the starboard insert as the representation had just a vague resemblance with the actual part. I also closed of the rear of the FuG VIII radio equipment. I will utilize the Eduard PE set but have to work out first which parts I will use and which not. Originally I intended to replace the kit seats with the Quickboost offering. Here is the comparison between the two. I came to the conclusion that the Airfix offering is more accurate for a Berta. One problem is that there are no pictures of the pilot seat I could find. The next best thing was a sketch from the pilot's manual. In my eyes, the Airfix seat is closer to the proportion of the actual seat. Also the Quickboost gunner's seat isn't correct. It represents the seat used in the Dora with a lower back part. The Berta seat has a noticeable higher back part as can be seen in the sketch and the picture and the Airfix seat looks much better. But Airfix has it located central in the fuselage whereby it should be closer to starboard as can be seen in the above picture! Airfix got it right in their 1/72 Stuka kit so I am puzzled why they placed it central in the 1/48 kit. Other omissions I noticed are the missing gun sight and head protector bar for the pilot, again both this parts are contained in the 1/72 Stuka kit. And then there is the missing head armor. Yes the early B-2 had none, but they were added soon and it would have been nice to have them (there are three types) included. That is where I am now with some fun ahead of bending and gluing some fiddly PE stuff - hopefully I won't loose half of them to the carpet monster. Thanks for looking, Cheers, Peter
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