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Space Ranger

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Space Ranger last won the day on June 27 2014

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About Space Ranger

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    Out of This World
  • Birthday 09/18/1946

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    Male
  • Location
    Carrollton, TX, USA
  • Interests
    Spitfires, V-bombers, USAF, Star Trek, RealSpace

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  1. Aha! More than just the oval panel on the upper wing, I see. Thanks for posting that.
  2. Compare the upper wing halves of the two kits.
  3. Would you consider selling copies of your corrected parts for those of us who wish to build more accurate models?
  4. It was an issue of RAF Flying Review, purchased at a newstand in Freeport, Texas, at about the same time (possibly that very issue!) that introduced me to Airfix and Frog kits. I was 12 years old. There is a yahoo group devoted to such stuff as this: ScaleModelingNostalgia. To subscribe, send an email to: scalemodelingnostalgia-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
  5. I have refrained from commenting on all these wasted electrons until now, because the cynic in me says that it's pointless to point out that all this speculation is pointless. But aha! I just pointed it out! A quadruple point-out! Do I get a Gold Medal?
  6. I, too, endorse the use of Tamiya Extra Thin, applied with a small brush, for assembly. For long seams, such as between fuselage halves, just hold the parts together and touch the brush loaded with cement to the seam. Capillary action will take care of the rest. If you fear that a solvent based putty will mar the surfaces, use Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty. It's a water-basec putty and cleans up with water. A dampened cotton swab will do it. Although I prefer a lacquer-based putty for general use, I use Perfect Plastic Putty in areas that are hard to sand or where sanding might obliterate surface details.
  7. Good point. I was assuming this was a regular polystyrene kit (once again, not enough caffeine). Further research reveals this is in fact a die-cast model. I'm off to have some coffee.
  8. It's always worked for me!
  9. For some reason, the fact that the props are 1/200 did not register (not enough caffeine in my system, probably). What I proposed works far better in larger scales. And yes, pinning the joint with brass rod is highly advisable, as Vicarage Vee suggests. I forgot to mention that as well. But in 1/200 scale, that's gonna be next to impossible.
  10. I'd recommend a liquid solvent cement such as Tamiya Extra Thin, applied with a small brush. A propeller jig is what you need. You can purchase one or make one yourself. On a piece of stiff card, draw a circle using a drafting compass. Set the radius of the circle equal to the radius of the prop. Draw radial lines through the center of the circle at a 120° angle. In the center of the circle, punch a small hole just big enough to accept the propshaft. At about 3/4 of the distance from the center of the circle, glue small 30°-60°-90° triangles, cut from the same stiff card, on each radial to support the blades. The attached illustration should give you an idea.
  11. I finally had the presence of mind to google PTFE, and learned that, yes, "Teflon" is a trade name for it. Your description is perfect.
  12. You must remember that plastic kits are injection molded. Molten plastic enters the mold under high pressure, and the molds have to be designed so that the plastic can flow uniformly through all the "gates" (the plastic runners to which the parts are attached) so that all the mold cavities fill as near to the same time as possible. Stress on the mold, gate location and thickness/diameter, wall thickness of the parts (wings and fuselage halves, for example), draft angles, and surface textures all have to be accounted for. For these reasons, it's not always possible to position the parts on the runner in a way that may make perfect sense to a kit assembler, but it enables the parts to be molded quickly without short shots or even breaking a mold due to excess pressure. This is why "test shots" are produced. They're not produced to test the accuracy of the parts but to see if the parts can be molded without molding issues. As to the other issues with the kit you point out, I cannot comment except to say that today's 3D CAD design of new kits and molds means tighter assembly tolerances which in turn demand extra care in assembling the model. Even a coat of paint in an area which is intended to be cemented can cause difficulties.
  13. The only thing that's been keeping me from building an Academy Catalina is those skinny nacelles and undersized cowlings. I like the idea of a complete new center section, but one that is two-piece (top and bottom) and hollow to reduce weight and allow for a spar, as has already been suggested. I could see myself buying at least two sets, possibly more. And I do think that demand will increase once they are made available and publicized.
  14. Space Ranger

    Alclad

    P.S. Alclad's "how-to" page is here: http://alclad2.com/how-to/
  15. Space Ranger

    Alclad

    Here's what Alclad themselves have to say: "(Other hobby enamel paints are suitable-it is advisable to conduct a test on scrap plastic)" I've heard of other using Tamiya Gloss Black and Model Master Gloss Black with success, but as I have not used them myself, I really can't give you any advice as to either. I would suggest conducting a test, just as Alclad suggests.
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