Spitfire MkV dark green camo.

[foz]

Good afternoon chaps. 

 

I'm curious on your opinions on the camouflage of the MkV Spitfire in the European theatre. Was the dark green the same on all MkV spitfires, and was it the same dark green that was used on the BoB aircraft? 

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Paul Lucas]

If you mean the shade of green used on Spitfires being used in the Fighter role, then yes, the shade of Dark Green used on the Spitfire V was the same as that used on BoB aircraft.

 

Dark Green was formulated in 1933 and began to be used in conjunction with Dark Earth on RAF Expansion Scheme types from 1936. It remained in use for the whole of the war and way beyond. In 1964 it was incorporated into BS 381C as No.641 Dark Green, the number, though not the hue of the colour being subsequently ammended to No.241.

 

Dark Green No.241 remains in BS 381C today.

 

[foz]

13 minutes ago, Paul Lucas said:

If you mean the shade of green used on Spitfires being used in the Fighter role, then yes, the shade of Dark Green used on the Spitfire V was the same as that used on BoB aircraft.

 

Dark Green was formulated in 1933 and began to be used in conjunction with Dark Earth on RAF Expansion Scheme types from 1936. It remained in use for the whole of the war and way beyond. In 1964 it was incorporated into BS 381C as No.641 Dark Green, the number, though not the hue of the colour being subsequently ammended to No.241.

 

Dark Green No.241 remains in BS 381C today.

 

Many thanks, it's greatly appreciated. 

 

Do you happen to have the source of this? It would be a great help. 

[Paul Lucas]

Supermarine Drawing 36004 'Spitfire Camouflage Scheme' quotes Dark Green 33B/201-203, cross referenced with Aircraft Design Memorandum No 332 of September 1939 and DTD Technical Circular No.360 of February 1943 both of which give the same Vocabulary of Stores Section 33B reference numbers for Dark Green to DTD 314.

[foz]

5 minutes ago, Paul Lucas said:

Supermarine Drawing 36004 'Spitfire Camouflage Scheme' quotes Dark Green 33B/201-203, cross referenced with Aircraft Design Memorandum No 332 of September 1939 and DTD Technical Circular No.360 of February 1943 both of which give the same Vocabulary of Stores Section 33B reference numbers for Dark Green to DTD 314.

Cheers Paul, much appreciated. 

[Mr T]

Just go expand slightly on Pauls very clear  answer. The same Dark Green as a part of camouflage was specified for virtually all British built aircraft operating over land. It was used postwar. 

[PatG]

Just to say, not knowing what type of paints you prefer to use, Colourcoats enamels are a very good match to what you are after and would work great for Dk Green.

 

Sorry but can't comment on acrylic, lacquer etc. as alternatives as I'm an old git of a modeler from the 60's so and only use enamels I'm afraid, but if you are an enamel user then you can't get better IMHO.

 

Pat.

[foz]

Great help, thanks all. 

 

Ok, let's assume an aircraft is outside for say..... Six months. So, after being a frontline fighter for six months, out in the sun, wear and tear etc etc, how would that dark green turn out? If anyone has images for reference, that would be greatly appreciated.

[alt-92]

Eat your heart out  Don't let the header pic fool you, the album is chock full of great examples.

https://flickr.com/photos/8270787@N07/albums/72157605269786717

 

A sample:

 

[Troy Smith]

4 minutes ago, foz said:

Ok, let's assume an aircraft is outside for say..... Six months. So, after being a frontline fighter for six months, out in the sun, wear and tear etc etc, how would that dark green turn out? If anyone has images for reference, that would be greatly appreciated.

new

 

Spitfire in England by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

this is one of the best period colour images showing Temperate Land Scheme,  Dark Green is an dark olive green, Dark Earth is a subtly green hued mid brown, Sky is a very pale yellow green, note also the Very dark blue, brick red and orange hued yellow, and Medium Sea Grey is a subtly prurple-blue hued grey.

 

Almost no acrylic model  colour get this right. 

 

Spitfire by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

Test Pilot               c1944. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

Note Ocean Grey has a subtle green hue, but tends to look blue next to Dark Green

 

weathered

Spitfire II        April 1941. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

Spitfire Mk.Vb,  c1943. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

Spitfire by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

Spitfire Mk. V ? by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

all from here https://www.flickr.com/search/?user_id=8270787%40N07&view_all=1&text=spitfire

 

all period colour collated by @Etiennedup

 

HTH

[IgnacioKennedy]

The look of the Spitfire MkV, especially its camo, changed a bit over time because of different needs and where it was used. The dark green you mentioned was really common for British fighter planes in World War II, even during the Battle of Britain. Early on, this dark green was usually matched up with a dark earth color on a lot of the MkV Spitfires. It seems like this combo was kind of the go-to look for these planes back in the day.

[Troy Smith]

36 minutes ago, IgnacioKennedy said:

It seems like this combo was kind of the go-to look for these planes back in the day.

It's got a name, Temperate Land Scheme, as do all British camouflage combinations. (Malta variations excepted)  

 

I see you are a new poster, so I don't know what you do and don't know,  but if you have not see this you need too.

scans are here

https://boxartden.com/reference/gallery/index.php/Camouflage-Markings/Supermarine-Spitfire

 

And if new to you it will be very useful, while old, it was the first publication which had access to then recently declassified documents.  It explains what, when and why and is incredibly useful, I don't think it has been bettered as one stop guide to the basics.

the other in the series are also available.

HTH

[PatG]

From my experience on the Forum so far there is never a conclusive answer to this type of question, so just go with what you feel happy with as most UK (and even US) colour photos of the period are open to a wide variety of interpretation, so who will be able to say that you are actually wrong in your choice as long as it seems and matches the photo you may have?

 

Certainly the colour would change due to exposure, natural weathering and age etc. so it comes down to finding an actual photo and matching as best you can and be happy with it given all the various techniques that are now available, most beyond my personal skills as a very average modeler.

 

Personally Colourcoats enamels offer a really good start point but as you don't say what medium you work in this may not be appropriate.

 

Of course if you want to enter the model into a competition then perhaps this may be more critical but again who can say either way?

 

These questions often raise more questions than answers I'm afraid so be prepared for many opinions, all equally valid and worth considering.

 

Pat.

 

 

 

 

[Troy Smith]

23 minutes ago, PatG said:

Of course if you want to enter the model into a competition then perhaps this may be more critical but again who can say either way?

Model competitions  are not judged on accuracy, but the quality of the model. 

23 minutes ago, PatG said:

 

These questions often raise more questions than answers I'm afraid so be prepared for many opinions, all equally valid and worth considering.

I would caution on the last,  on here you will usually get very good information, but I have seen some poorly reasoned opinions, which are not very valid.

 

There is a vast amount of cobblers floating about online, not helped by wildly inaccurate model paints,  you only have to browse youtube builds and Farcebook to see a multitude of horrors, with plenty of 'looks great' comments,  not just planes, tanks with rusty tracks and hulls.

3 week old BoB aircraft looking like they have spent 9 month on a coral airstrip in the Pacific etc etc etc.

On here you can get some of the best information and their sources you will find anywhere. 

 

In this specific case?  No, RAF Dark Green is not controversial, it's appearance is well known and documented.   It's a dark olive green.  It can go brownish with age, or fade, but overall it held up well.  

Post war Dark Green fades in different ways though.

 

Problems start in the model world with Humbrol 30 and their 50 year of getting Dark Green wrong,H30 is actually distinctly blue hued green. 

It WAS olive green in the late 60 until someone at Humbrol stuffed up and it has never been corrected.

 And then the deluge of Spanish paint companies employing color blind babbons to randomly select their matches and names....,. or they might as well

 

@foz

this, from the boss of Colourcoats, who is the only model paint manufacturer you will find posting on here, and has made up sample from original formula, is still one the my personal lightbulb moments on REAL paint.

Remember in WW2 we are talking about vast amounts paint,  the Army used a lot less paint than the RAF and they used 8,000 TONS a year. 

The army had to stop using green pigments for 2 years as the RAF needed all of it.  

 

start quote.

 

I'm going to point out some facts about real-life paint manufacture and either the reader will understand and "get it" or will not understand and are in no position to contradict me.

 

1) Usually camouflage colours are fairly low saturation colours because these blend in better with nature. They're seldom bright and bold. Low saturation colours are normally manufactured by adding coloured pigments to a base made from inexpensive white or white and black pigments.

 

2) Colour pigments are expensive. The expense varies depending on the specific pigment, but they're expensive.

 

3) The only way to over-saturate a colour so much is to substantially over-dose your base with the expensive colour pigments. I'm not talking about a few percent more or less - that causes minor differences which you only confirm the presence of with one swatch adjacent to another - I'm talking more in the order of a double dose to get something you obviously look at and think "woah".

 

4) In the case of colours like dark olive, these are mostly white, black and ochre (which is relatively inexpensive for a colour pigment) sometimes further tinted with a bit of red or green (which are often very expensive).

 

5) There can certainly be variances in a manufactured paint, but these tend to be greatly overstated, i.e. used as a ready made excuse for all sorts of mistakes. Ultimately, the only way a manufactured paint can end up so oversaturated is to have dumped in a vast amount of the expensive pigments, if not adding in new additional pigments in large quantities not expected in the recipe. Frankly, it's difficult to see how any manufactured paint could end up so drastically off target, particularly in the over-saturated sense, by any business that wasn't actively trying to bankrupt itself by roasting through obscene quantities of pigments like chrome green which were already expensive at the start of the war and in particularly short supply during.

 

6) I'd venture that most of the "there was a war on, you know" type apologists for such spectacular errors probably don't have any actual experience of what is and isn't possible when mixing different proportions of 2,3 or 4 pigments when 2 of those are usually black and white just to make your base to tint. You simply cannot end up with a Humbrol 30-esque bluish green using only the ingredients to make olive - i.e. you'd actually have to sabotage it by introducing if not blue then an obviously bluish green. Same goes for that bright green Spitfire above - you can't achieve that with black, white, ochre and a touch of red - you'd need to fire in a lot of bright green pigment in to get that saturated on an overly-light base. It would be more tan-like just using the basic olive green ingredients which only turns obviously olive when tinted enough with black. Put another way, with a fixed number of pigments in various ratios you WILL end up somewhere within a certain envelope, and usually when colours like this bright green are discussed it's because it's well outside that envelope.

 

The point of all the above? In essence it's harder to make a credible explanation for how such a colour might have been arrived at in a real-life paint manufacturing environment than it is to demonstrate that someone would have had to go to a lot of trouble to get it so far wrong. That is harder to rationalise than just getting it closer to correct.

 

 

 

from

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235078859-accuracy-of-ammo-by-mig-jiménez-raf-wwii-colours/

 

The Mig Ammo are bloody awful too, bright pea green and some dark reddy brown ....

 

There is a post further on in that thread with a youtube showing mixing from pigments.

 

We regularly have colour discussion on here,  there are areas that are 'best guess' but a lot is well documented.    

 

You seem interested from your few posts, so hope of interest and use.

[Tomas Enerdal]

I can only chime in; welcome to the wonderful world of serious modelling!

 

In the past I have also, like so many others, searched for the "perfect" colour, be it RAF Dark Earth, RLM Grau-grün or any other. Over the years this has developed more into searching for the colour, and colour combinations, that "feels" right. 

I always start with the official colour(s), I have many standards and references on the subject, and enjoy discussions like this. On the model I carefully use modulation, and several nuances of the chosen colour. I look a lot at photos of the real aircraft and try to understand and capture the level of weathering, the sheen and its variations, the level of overspray, etc. And then I try to capture it on my model. Never overdo it, less is more. I often tone down the colours with various shades of gray, almost never add intensity.

This thought process and work is most rewarding! It is a search for authenticity, and has a lot to do with feeling. I also realize that this leads to some variation between the colours used in each case and between models.

 

For enamels, Colourcoats can always be trusted. I have almost used them as a standard in itself, knowing how much they care for authenticity.

 

As I am an old fashioned modeller I seldom use acrylics. But as Xtracrylics have been said to be very nice to work with why not try them out if acrylics is your medium? Their Xtracolor RAF Dark Green X001 is a very good interpretation, IMHO.

 

Good luck!

Edited March 20 by Tomas Enerdal

[Ed Russell]

6 hours ago, PatG said:

so be prepared for many opinions, all equally valid and worth considering.

Ahhh no. Defintely not. There are lots of crap opinions out there, some dressed up as "serious researcher" and some from people who don't care that much.

There are some fairly serious forums like this one and a whole lot of misinformation - particularly on so-called "social media".

[FatFlyHalf]

I have been modelling for what seems like ages (yes I'm an old dinosaur of a modeller who remembers the excitement of getting Airfix kits in poly bags for 2/6d.).

No, I'm not a rivet counter, I enjoy making (what I consider to be) a reasonable representation / interpretation of my subject, not an absolutely spot-on reconstruction in plastic.

 

For many years I chosen to select a particular brand of enamels (my preferred type for brush painting) for the main colours of my modelling interests, and stuck to it.

Why ?

Because if it's wrong it's consistently wrong across the range of models I build.

But I also believe my choice to be a 'reasonably accurate' rendition of the actual colours in use. 
My definition of 'reasonably accurate' may not be yours.
 

So as a modeller of long-standing, and very little skill, I recommend that you pick a preferred paint brand / colour and stick with it.

 

FFH

[Work In Progress]

50 minutes ago, FatFlyHalf said:

I recommend that you pick a preferred paint brand / colour and stick with it.

I do think this is solid advice for the many of us who like to have several related models on display wearing nominally the same colours, and it was a big annoyance to me when I ran out of my beloved Aeromaster Warbird acrylics (having been out of modelling for a long interval) and had to start mixing and matching from what I can actually buy today.

 

The comments quoted in italics in Tory's long post above are excellent and deserve multiple readings.

[Tomas Enerdal]

-Note that several brands can be intermixed, if they are of the same kind of paint, enamels, acrylics, acrylic lacquers, etc.

To my surprise I found out that Tamiya could be mixed with MrColor, Hataka orange line and AK. This opens up a wide spectrum of subtle mixing possibilities by adding white, gray, lighter and darker versions, etc in small quantities to your "basic" hue. Thus you can introduce variations on a model or between models, simulating variations in weathering, bleaching. If done subtly, even not perceptible to the naked eye, this will result in variations that can suddenly turn a lifeless model to something surprisingly alive. Take a look at P7895 above and note how the shades vary over the surface.

 

I suppose various acrylics can be intermixed in the same way: Xtracrylics, LifeLike, Gunze Aqueous, whatever.

 

I will never forget a demonstration made by a fellow modeller, Viktor Krogius, on a modelling competition, many years ago. 

He entered two 1/48 Hasegawa Hurricanes, side by side: one Mk.I in pristine prewar paint, one weathered and bleached Mk.IIc from the North African desert.

The difference between the Dark Earth of the two models was stark to say the least, yet they both seemed extremely authentic! When he then showed how he had used lots of small colour variation on each model in itself, I was kind of hooked.

 

It's very easy to test and try! But careful at first, not to overdo it.

Edited March 20 by Tomas Enerdal

[Giorgio N]

1 hour ago, Tomas Enerdal said:

I suppose various acrylics can be intermixed in the same way: Xtracrylics, LifeLike, Gunze Aqueous, whatever.

 

 

No problem with Lifecolor, Xtracrylics, Vallejo etc, but Gunze Aqueous are a different thing. You can mix them with Tamiya's but I'd avoid mixing them with any of the vinylic paints

[Andrés S.]

14 hours ago, Troy Smith said:

And then the deluge of Spanish paint companies employing color blind babbons to randomly select their matches and names....,. or they might as well

 

This is the second time I have heard you say the same thing: generalizing with ALL the paints manufactured in Spain, not this brand or that brand and not this color or that color, YOU GENERALIZE TO ALL SPANISH PAINTS.
The first time I told you that you said it, you denied it shamelessly.... I am sure that you will continue to deny it over and over again even though it is recorded in Britmodeller over and over again and can be verified by anyone...It is something that It's not uncommon to me...
I am happy to tell you that AMMO, Vallejo and AK, whether you like that or not, with their mistakes but also with their successes, enjoy a very good reputation in the modeling world and their respective companies, both inside and outside the EEC. , have an increasingly extensive clientele worldwide on all 5 continents. It may be for a reason, and it may also be for a reason that other manufacturers, who are not exactly Spanish, are selling less and less of their paints or whatever they sell...

 

Andrés.

[Ed Russell]

I don't use acrylic paints so I have no skin in the game but it seems to me there are a lot of modellers who are wary of the accuracy of Mig paint. Rather than just the words, I look at the the comparative pictures of the paint compared to the Air Ministry colour chart.

 

 worldwide on all 5 continents.

Okay, I can see why not in Antarctica, but which other one do you mean?

[Troy Smith]

5 hours ago, Andrés S. said:

AMMO, Vallejo and AK

in case the following comes in the  TL;DR  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TL;DR  category, here the short version.

 

They make errors. Often. 

 

I don't have a problem because they are Spanish, I have a problem with the accuracy of their products,  if a British company was frequently as poor they would get the same complaint.  (see my complaints about Xtradecal research for example)

 

Please read this carefully.  Check the links.  This seems to be systemic in their operation, and to cap it off,   AK and Vallejo have also misrepresented sources.   They could have actually just made a bit more effort and GOT IT RIGHT.

 

Just so you know, while related to armour colours,  AK have used the name of the UK researcher, Mike Starmer,  on British Armour colours 

https://mafva.co.uk/?p=2607

 

this is about their book, Real Colors of WW2, with his name on the cover.

https://ak-interactive.com/product/real-colors-of-wwii/

a mere 47 euros.....

 

 

and how they treated the work of one of their sources,  and the paints that piggyback on this

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/track48/ak-interactive-real-colors-t10663-s20.html

 

"Regarding the AK book.  To be honest I am livid and disgusted at the way they published the British section.  My submitted original text was requested to be shortened, which I did.  They then edited that without my knowledge. I sent complete sets of camouflage diagrams with copies of the official orders.  These orders were totally ignored.   

Then redrew some of the disruptive diagrams in their own style and colours transposed onto mostly American vehicles, apparently the British didn't have any of their own.  To cap it they then applied a disruptive pattern from one tank type onto another type, it doesn't fit of course.  The ultimate was putting the pattern for the Greek based A10s onto a Crusader which never carried the design nor deployed to Greece. 

Samples of their paint were sent to me for assessment.  None were accurate, not even close, which I reported back with larger samples.  New samples then arrived for testing, still not right.  In discussion I discovered that they were matching under 'daylight' lighting!  FGS are they not sharp or what?  I gave them up as a waste of my time, I told them that too.  Rant over."

 

OK, this is amateur hour.   It's not like there is no daylight in Spain, or spectrometers?  They were corresponding with the noted researcher, who sells books including paint chips.

I'm sure a company with their turnover can afford a  spectrophotometer,  is a color measurement device used to capture and evaluate color?

https://www.xrite.com/learning-color-education/other-resources/what-is-a-spectrophotometer

 

 

They don't seem to actually understand US Navy colors,  I have this set.  

 

Light Grey, Blue Grey, Sea Blue, Intermediate Blue, Insignia White, Dark Sea Blue.

 

Er, there 3 USN sea blues, all are different colors, I have the set, I have this book.

 

it has an extensive set of actual paint color chips in it, and is considered the standard reference by researchers.

They are given their correct names,   

The AK paints DO NOT MATCH any of the book chips, wrong or right name.

 

Their RAF  set is poor as well.  As is the Israeli set.     I own them, and they are wrong.     And it's not like the references are not available, even if they are on the second hand market.   

 

 

 

Vallejo?  Oh, they have a similar approach, and have also irritated Mike Starmer, 

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235135144-british-armour-colours-north-africa-4142-and-44-normandy-onwards/#elControls_4885579_menu

 

"Whilst on the subject of desert, and other British colours, I have been advised and have artwork that Vallejo are adding to their box tops 'In collaboration with Mike Starmer'    I wish to point out that I have not knowingly advised Vallejo on their British colours sets.  I have never been sent any Vallejo paints to run comparison tests on.  Having only very recently seen the colour illustrations on the rear of the desert and European sets I will point out that not only have they not put correct colour terminology of the paints enclosed, but most of the suggested schemes are very inaccurate, to put it mildly.  They evidently have no idea of the correct colours to use in the schemes they show.   Please be aware.  The layout of the Caunter pattern on the truck illustration on their Caunter set is not accurate. "

 

and

"Regarding Vallejo, I received a reply.   In 2018 I did apparently agree to them using the term 'in collaboration with ...'  However in my response I pointed out that I had never seen samples of their colours for me to see and check for accuracy.   I also pointed out that their artwork instructions were mostly inaccurate in terms of colours supposedly used in certain schemes. 

I suggested that it might be a good idea that their artist should either know about what he or she is drawing or take advice from someone who did know about the subject.  In addition, I pointed out that using their own colour notations to denote 'British' colours was wilful misinformation to their customers.  As yet I have no reply."

 

I have Mike's books, and he has taken the time to email a drawing of relevance before I bought them, and  an overview of his research along with mixes is on the mafva site, linked above. 

 

 

5 hours ago, Andrés S. said:

both inside and outside the EEC. , have an increasingly extensive clientele worldwide on all 5 continents. It may be for a reason, and it may also be for a reason that other manufacturers, who are not exactly Spanish, are selling less and less of their paints or whatever they sell...

The paints work well, I use Vallejo model color a lot,  but I have to check and mix to get accurate colours,  and they have a large presence online, but the Chinese model companies, eg Trumpeter/Hobby Boss sell loads all over the world,  and are popular, and are frequently wrong. 

They still sell. Usually well engineered, but doesn't make them any less wrong.

 

There are other paint companies who get it wrong,  but the Spanish ones are notably and persistently poor in colour matching.

 

The above linked to some MiG AMMO, RAF set that was eyewateringly bad matches.  Bright pea green and a dark red brown, these even made the tonal values wrong, Dark Green is darker colour to Dark Earth.

 

5 hours ago, Andrés S. said:

YOU GENERALIZE TO ALL SPANISH PAINTS.

Are there any other model paint companies apart from AMMO, Vallejo and AK?  Not that I am aware of. 

 

If there are others working to the highest standards of accuracy, I apologise, and can you link to their products. 

 

If not then it's not a generalisation, but a verifiable statement.

 

THEY ARE BAD AT RESEARCH AND COLOUR MATCHING.

 

It is not unreasonable to make modellers aware of potential problems?   It just happens that there 3 are all Spanish, and a large market presence, and sell paint sets that are by the accepted standards of the colours the WRONG colour.

 

Modellers buy their product as they presume that they are what they claim to be, and then are let down.  I see models online all the time that are the wrong colours because of this.   

 

 

AK even have this on their site

https://ak-interactive.com/who-we-are/

MISSION

Our goal is to offer tools to the modelers so that they can put aside the most tedious tasks of their hobby and they can focus on achieving better results in their scale models day after day.

This simplification of tasks, combined with realism and historical precision, is the key to the success of our acrylic paints, oils, enamel based effects, Real Colors, Weathering Pencils, products for dioramas and vegetation, etc.

To carry out this commitment, we strive every day for modelers from all over the world to collaborate in the development of new products as well as to participate in demonstrations and tutorials so that the international modeling community is enriched and does not stop innovating.

 

Hmm, corporate

 

 

We even have had a member analyse the Vallejo Model Air range

 

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235124742-acrylic-vallejo-air-measurements-of-full-range-of-paints/

 

I did this work because Vallejo is known for giving sometimes random labels to their paints - the label on their bottles are not always a good information about the color they are supposed to be, and sometimes they are misleading - there are better matches in their own paint range.

 

So, it has taken a member here, to buy the paints, analyse them and do comparisons to find they actually make better matches but mislabel thme? 

 

There are other companies making paints, but they make colours, I'm not impressed at the Hataka RAF paint I saw, Xtracrylix I have are not good,  Humbrol have a poor reputation, but they are not as big offenders as the big 3 Spanish companies.

 

Tamiya sell matches that are not good either, but a lot of their range are not specific.

 

My next major paint purchase will be a load of Liquitex and I'll be mixing my own, which I already do, but should make that task easier.

 

5 hours ago, Andrés S. said:

The first time I told you that you said it, you denied it shamelessly.... I am sure that you will continue to deny it over and over again even though it is recorded in Britmodeller over and over again and can be verified by anyone...It is something that It's not uncommon to me...

No.   Not denying anything.   This time I have given a more in depth reply.  

 

Please show, with proof,  that anything I have said is incorrect or inaccurate. 

 

This is open modellers forum where user can contribute information and discuss matters, I know I have been flippant in my description of the colour matching process,  it's called humour,   but my basic point stands.

 

There are three model paint companies, who all happen to be based in Spain who all have a particularly poor record in accurately matching known colour standards.   

 

The question is though is why?  And even when provided with accurate information they still get it wrong?    

[Old Man]

3 hours ago, Troy Smith said:

 

My next major paint purchase will be a load of Liquitex and I'll be mixing my own, which I already do, but should make that task easier.

 

 

 

 

Hear hear, Sir.

 

Mix your own, cut with future, thin with water and a touch of soap.

 

 

James

[Tomas Enerdal]

Giorgio N pointed out that Gunze Aqueous can not be mixed with acrylics as I suggested. Sorry for this, I had not tested this myself. (Being mainly a user of enamels and laquers)
I should add that the compatibility between various paint brands must also be tested beforehand, before comitting paint to the brush/airbrush and model. 

Edited March 21 by Tomas Enerdal