Andrés S.

Great job with the wings. I think I will keep it in mind when I have to do it in my Mustang. Andrés.

Thanks Pete !!! Andrés.

Hi javlin, thanks !!! Hi Rando, thanks !!! Hi Roberto, thanks !!! Andrés.

Well Steve, I can only add that if in this build or any other you see something that might interest you and I haven't made it clear enough how I do it, I ask you not to hesitate to ask me. I assure you that it will be a pleasure for me say everything you need. Andrés.

Good job with this Spit!! I really like the tone of Ocean Gray that you used, what brand and reference is it? Congratulations !! Andrés.

If I remember correctly, having seen it yesterday, the well-known P-51B that you mention was in a photo of Don Gentile's Sangri La. Andrés.

Hi Steve. I don't understand why you think you wouldn't get the same colors as me by doing that mix. I am absolutely honest when I tell you that this mixture is what I used. But, you should keep in mind that the newly applied color has an appearance and then I apply other colors from Vallejo and AK to get dirty, as you can see in the series of photographs that I have been adding. Although it does not really alter the tone of the color applied as a base, it does modify the perception of it. I think that to a certain extent you underestimate yourself, if it has worked for me it can also give you the same result. Regards. Andrés.

Hi Mike. Thank you very much for your kind comment, it really makes me feel honored. Andrés.

Hi Steve, thanks for your kind words. The Midle Stone is a mix of Tamiya colors: XF-59(5) + XF-60(5) + XF-3(5) + H-81(3). The H-81 is the only Gunze color used in the mix, and the number in parentheses indicates the drops used of that color. The RAF Dark Brown color was a mix of Gunze's H-304 Olive Drab, XF-52 Drak Brown and Tamiya's XF-3 Yellow. I made it quite a few months ago when I coincidentally found out thanks to this great forum that it was not the brown color I always thought it was, showing me some vintage photos of Spirtfires as proof. Well, the thing is that in my enthusiasm I didn't write down the amount of each color and I would have to do the mixture again but I would start with H-304 with 15 drops and add XF-52; I do remember that I added only one drop of yellow XF-3. Logically, when I manage to make a mixture of paints that I like, I multiply the number of drops so that in a clean container there is enough paint for several airplanes. Hi Divebomber. Thanks. There are no stupid questions. The reason is because some engines and depending on what type of fuel you used, or perhaps better said depending on the octane rating of the fuel and some added additive, left a different trail than others. The Allison engines used to leave traces of whitish smoke and that is why airplanes like the P-38 or the P-39, as well as the first versions of the P-51, have smoke in that tone. But it is not exclusive to them, I have also seen traces of light grayish smoke in Hurricanes and Spitfires. Andrés.

Thank you very much Sanjuro, it's just what I needed. Speed and effectiveness, what more could you ask for!!! Andrés.

Hi guys. I have read that some of the modelers in this GB have removed panel lines (and I suppose also any rivets or screws in the area) from the wings of their P-51s. It's something I never heard or read about, except that the wings were painted and not natural metal. However, I have not been able to find detailed information about it. I intend to rivet my P-51 in this GB and of course for reference I have some drawings of the plane showing the panel lines and rivet lines of both the fuselage and the wings. Can anyone advise which panel lines and rivets/screws I should remove? I can't find anything about it that helps me, because it seems that not all the lines or screws or rivets should be eliminated, but rather a part. Andrés.

Hi Cookenbacher. Thanks for your kind words. Andrés.

Thank you very much kapam, I'm glad you liked it. Andrés.

AK Real Color is not acrylic, it is lacquer. AK REAL Color has its own thinner. And it is a very good thinner for these paints and for Tamiya and Gunze. And this is because AK Real Color, Tamiya and Gunze are the same type of lacquer, or semi-lacquer, paints. Andrés.

I have wondered if it would be like that. The F-5 blue looks beautiful to me. He is a strong candidate to attack my PayPal account... Andrés.

Hi Miguel !!! You caught me. 😂 Thanks !! Andrés.

Hi Miguel !!! Thank you very much for your kind words. Abrazotes. Andrés-

Hi HarryHobyin. Thank you very much for your kind words. I'm glad you like it. When I said that to drill the pipes you need calm and patience, I forgot to mention that essential ally in our modeling work and that sometimes turns its back on us: luck. Andrés.

Saving the different elements and pieces of the kit until I worked on it again, I saw that it had the exhausts separate from the sprue and I remembered that at the time I thought about buying the 3D printed ones that Eduard sells, but I decided that 5.5 €uros plus shipping costs It was too much in exchange for not wanting to try to hollow out the mouths of each exhaust pipe. To indicate where to do it and to do it is why punches and mini drills are bought, right? All it takes is calmness and a little patience when turning the mini drills. So I tried and managed not to destroy any of the pipes. The paint used was AK Real Color Aluminum for the part that covers the pipes and for these I used Tamiya X-10 enamel. To highlight the details I applied with a very diluted Vallejo MC glossy black fine tip brush. And inside each exhaust a very diluted mixture of black and brown Vallejo MC as well. After getting a couple of photos of one of them I have really now saved all the pieces until I resume working with it again. Andrés.

Very good job !!! Andrés.

Hi Gerard. Thank you for your kind words. Maybe in a couple of weeks or three I will be here again to show something of him. Andrés.

Hi. The previous entry was in the wee hours of the morning and well, I'm not very happy with the photos, plus I forgot to include what I also made of the landing gear well. As I am going to temporarily stop this model (there is still a lot of time to finish it) to resume another one, and the next thing will be to close the fuselage, I would like to first leave some better photos of the cockpit and what was done with the landing gear well. P.S.- Before I forgot to mention that the photo-etched harnesses on the pilot's seat are not the ones provided by the kit (I don't like them with the raised central sewing) but rather some generic ones from Eduard. And I worked on the seat with sandpaper so that its walls decreased in thickness. The metallic color is again Aluminum from AK Extreme Metal and the Zinc Cromate Yellow is a mix of AK RC 263 and Tamiya XF-52. I outlined the details with a fine brush applying a very diluted mixture of Dark Leather Brown and Black from Vallejo MC. Andrés.

Hi Karearea. Very true about the logo on the rudder pedals. I was going to comment on it but for some reason I forgot. I was going to comment that the level of detail went so far as to reproduce the logo on the pedals, a place that is very difficult to visually access once the cockpit is assembled and even with modeller's glasses it is difficult to distinguish it. And having this level of detail and having put so much effort into it, it was a shame that the wheels had a mismatch in the tread pattern. That otherwise they were very good wheels but that made them lose a lot of value and all for not paying a little attention to that adjustment of the tread. It is the only fault that I have found so far in the kit, and it is a rather stupid fault due to lack of attention than due to poor quality in the molding or in the design of the piece, which, as I say, is very correct. Thank you very much for your words, I'm glad you like it. Andrés.

Thanks !!! Thanks !!! Well, I just finished the cockpit. My opinion is that it is the best cockpit I have ever done OOB (except for the addition of photo-etched pilot harnesses) in a 1/72 airplane, one of the best at any scale. The glueless fit of the pieces is perfect and the detail reproduced in each piece is simply exquisite, especially since it is 1/72. The tiny decals of the stencils have once again demonstrated their great quality. For the cabin alone, this Arma Hobby kit is worth every euro cent of its price. The colors used have once again been Gunze's H-58 for the Interior Green and RC 263 of AK Real Color for the Zinc Cromate Yellow to which I have added a little earth brown XF-52 from Tamiya to the can. For the different small details such as dials, levers or switches, etc. I have used the range of dark grays, black, white, red and yellow from Vallejo MC as well as the Aluminum from Model Air. For the internal metallic color of the fuselage I used Aluminum from AK Extreme Metal. Final Vallejo Satin varnish diluted in water, which gives it a slightly less satiny and somewhat more matte appearance. Andrés.

Hi Sam. Thank you very much for the explanation. I didn't ask about the varnish because it seemed bad, on the contrary. I am one of those who believe that it is not correct to always finish airplanes shiny like a car or flat like a tank, it depends on many things including the weather, the setting and even the original paint finish. I repeat, very good work. Andrés.