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Everything posted by alt-92

  1. Looks like the No.11 and sanding stick actually will have something to work on with this kit.
  2. I can get hold of another one, but on average they'll go for around 40-50€ nowadays.
  3. The question you'd want to ask then is: did anyone else make a more recent/better kit of this particular subject? AFAIK, it's the only game in town.
  4. Re: opsec... We're basing our guesses on publicised pictures. It's already out there.
  5. A Wellesley & a Sea Fox for me. There's also a Sea Fury T.20 but that's not an original Matchbox so not eligible.
  6. The bottom wing half is a very thin plastic part, but out of the box there is dihedral moulded in. So it's something (wing roots) that pushes the top halves down or out to a level - a misaligned cockpit part maybe?
  7. it's the Academy T-6G plastic, but with resin and extended canopy to make a proper Harvard out of it. For what's in the box: So if it is a T-6/SNJ you're looking for, either the original Academy kit or it's Wolfpack derivative would be a simpler option. Alternatively, the old faithful Heller T-6G is currently reboxed by Revell and might be both easier and cheaper to get. That said: a real hidden gem is the 1/48 Monogram one. See my signature for what you can do with it.
  8. Oh as an added bonus, the tailpipes aren't glued in but held by friction. So I could make it look even tattier by leaving one or both off
  9. An exercise in mucking up paintwork - or, how to sunfade standard SEA colours. Italeri 1/72 RF-4C (kit 133) CR12-41, 12 ALA, Ejercito del Aire, in storage at Torrejon AB before disposal at the shooting ranges. [edit] Derp. Build thread:
  10. Aaand done! Oops - forgot to take some masking tape off I see... The base is an IKEA picture frame, with a terrain mat PVA glued & some Vallejo Sand/mud paste. Loose tufts of grass bits on the paste bits to blend the edges a bit & clumps as you would normally see. This then was treated with a mix of different earths and greens to make it a bit more interesting, and finally some Klear & Gloss Varnish on the mud parts to add a watery shine to it.
  11. Mr.Hobby options: H-33 Russet otherwise it's mixing a red & brown base with black to the colour on the sheet. I have one of the Hase RF-4Cs in this scheme still underway via slow-boat, and hadn't given it any thought before...
  12. Used the ESCI decals for the EdA. After 40 years or so there is no adhesive left on the sheet, so I've used the Klear dip treatment. Once dried, went over them with a fine grit sanding/polishing stick to flatten and smooth them out, and even the small decals came out ok. Now for the final wathering and adding the tiny bits.
  13. That reminds me. I must get my stalled build out. Maybe in the KUTA GB?
  14. Nail, head. Originally, I had great plans including doing a long-time stash-queen 1/32 F-14 in the GB. Turns out, life is what happens while you're busy making plans so in the end, didn't join in the fray. It happens. Or, looking at it in another way: instead of rushing a build to make the end date, finish it on your own terms and tempo is perfectly ok over here. That's what makes this such a great hobby. No mandatory EOY evaluation like at work. Just us doing it because we like it.
  15. If at first you don't succeed... rebrand your GB and go at it again In. There must be at least one GB I can do some LVA in
  16. Special Hobby did several boxings in 1/48. Instructions should give you an impression of the level of detail. https://www.specialhobby.eu/out/media/100-SH48041.pdf
  17. Bit OT (but thanks for bringing this one to my attention anyway): Generally, if a thread is more than a couple of years old, I prefer to start a new, clean one but do add a link to the older one. That way, it prevents people responding to posts from the old thread / reacting to ancient questions probably long solved, or more awkward moments
  18. RF-4C Phantoms in 1/72 are a bit thin on the ground lately. There are several Hasegawas in the US but with the current postage extortion rates USPS is doing, those come out at 100+. Nope. Did find a good old ESCI without decals on bay for an acceptable level, so that will have to do.
  19. You can exclude a metal plate this close to the dish of the AI Mk. VIII. (wikimedia image of a AI MK.VIII unit in a Beaufighter)
  20. /me like. It looks to be as finely detailed as the Flyhawk SBD-3, those rivets are barely visible but you can feel those as well. Now, what would you advise for those who insist on filling the surface details? Surfacer 1200 or 1000? 500 may be too coarse and not fit in the tinytinytiny holes
  21. Heh. The scheme illustrations show a 3-blade prop (F4U-1 style).
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