Jump to content

Ed Russell

Gold Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Ed Russell

  1. I think the period we are looking at is mid-1917 so I wold say the white ring is correct. Using the actual ingredients for PC.10 you can mix a variety of colours. Actual references from the time are not common but I gather a "brownish green" rather than "brown" is more common. There are also references to the colour being darker and more brownish later in the war. Different source of yellow ochre? I shall use it for my next WW1 build!
  2. Interestingly, the Omega kit has a blunt nose https://www.scalemates.com/kits/omega-models-72067-m-5--264833 but this VES kit appears to have the sharp nose of the museum exhibit. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/ves-grigorowitsch-m-5--164357
  3. A coat of Humbrol 86 looks a lot better. More brownish, less greenish but still compatible with a yellow ochre / lampblack shade. Another glitch in the instructions is the roundel position. They call for an outboard position but every picture which shows them has them more inboard. The decals also appear to be in the WW2 shades of red and blue rather than the brighter WW1 shades. The blue is acceptable but the red is very brown-looking. I will use them but put a brighter red disc over the centres. The underside roundels have white outer rings - not correct for roundels over CDL. Spares box job.
  4. Next we spray some Humbrol 150 on the upper surfaces, having masked off the undersides and the engine cowling which was often painted Battleship Grey whatever that is! I suspect it's not the colour they painted battleships in WW1. I'm glad I went with a thin coat as it looks too "green" for my notion (only slightly reinforced by paint experiments) of what PC.10 might have looked like. I think maybe a slightly darker and browner version might be better - Humbrol 86 maybe?
  5. Thank you Perfectly good reason - I tend to do the same if it's not too much work. This build has been on temporary hold, waiting in the queue for my time, but, like the Venturas, it will be finished!
  6. Looking at the kit colour schemes this one looks nice. The most accessible reference for them, the ADF-Serials board hedges its bets with uncertainty on the provenance of all FK.3 pictures http://www.adf-serials.com.au/FK3.htm but A8099 will have to do as a subject. Looking at a high resolution copy of this picture and particularly the fuselage roundel, it is apparent that the colour of the fuselage sides is not white as suggested in the kit instructions but something a little darker. Logic suggests Clear Doped Linen so that's what we will go with. Using Humbrol 148 the undersides are given two fine coats. The wooden parts appear to be in a colour pretty close to CDL but not exactly the same so X107 is used but any cream would do.
  7. The context is that it is late 1942 and Bomber Command are worried that Vickers is still building Wellingtons. Removing the fire control and having less turrets (albeit manned) saves weight. Pressurisation is not strictly necessary at the bombing height envisaged and fitting (unsupercharged) Centaurus engines means no problems with untried superchargers. Thus a more capable aircraft than the Lancaste, suited to the task, and available in 1943. That was the plan.............
  8. Here's a few more, including some already mentioned. Most if not all curently unavailable...... Miles M20 – Kora, JK, Magna resin Box-Kites vacform Martin-Baker MB3 – Magne, Vami resin Martin Baker MB5 – Airframe, Falcon vacform. Pegasus, Skybirds86, AZ Models injection. Vami, CMR resin Mitsubishi Ki83 - Special Hobby, Aviation Usk injection Eagles Talon, Wings72, KPL vacform L,F Mechadoll, Planet resin Focke Wulf Fw-187 Airmodel, Aristocraft, Karo-As, Classic, Cruver, Special Hobby injected. WK, CMR resin Airmodel, O’Neill vacform
  9. Thank you! I think this one was spray painted hence the more-or-less overall regular pattern. However, you are correct in saying brooms, mops etc were used. Look at this one..... https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235054554-kawasaki-ki-61-revell-172/
  10. Next thing is to sort out some colours. Clear doped linen is a variable colour - pretty much anything in the cream area will be fine. Not H74 or H81 - too yellow. H71 and H148 look about right. PC.10 is made from lampblack and yellow ochre. One of my friends who worked for Dulux had a go at making this some years ago. Yellow ochre varies a lot but the mix is always a more-or-less brownish green. Probably HN5 and X114 are the only ones I would reject here - too bright. Probably any green colour in the range would do. It's also time to paint some of the small parts. The struts are very fine, Fortunately there was a spare one as I broke the pin off one - it's very easy to do as they are so fine. To make life easier I will go with one of the kit schemes - something I hardly ever do!
  11. Flying Training Command Communications Flight so maybe coded FKN-something then.
  12. Tsk tsk - you are mad - but I do like the Blue Angles scheme!
  13. No problem - maybe the Mk Vc ones will be better
  14. As I suspected those upgunned Catalinas are not RAAF. I think the $633 price for that book was set by an algorithm rather than a human, like how most of Amazon works. Edit Well I just picked one up on ABE Books for US$6.73 + postage at cost. But I will sell it to Amazon for $300. Title: PBY: The Catalina Flying Boat Author: Creed, Roscoe Quantity: 1 Book Description: The book has been read, but is in excellent condition. Pages are intact and not marred by notes or highlighting. The spine remains undamaged. ISBN: 9780870215261 Binding: Hardcover Book Condition: Very Good Book Price: US$ 6.73 Shipping Price: US$ 9.30 Estimated GST: US$ 1.60
  15. New to me - pictures welcome!
  16. The next step is to attache the wings.The instructions show a butt joint but I don't think that will be adequate. Some pins will help with alignment and strength. The wing was previously marked from inside through a hole and then placed in a pillar drill (a Dremel on a stand) to make a hole. Similarly the upper wing is in three pieces. This is presumably a limitation of the size of the 3D printer platen. Again, some pins are used to secure the three pieces together. I suspect subsequent events may show the single pin in each joint is insufficient and I would suggest anyone building the kit put two pins per joint. To their credit Hobartville Hobbies is interested in continuous improvement and later kits will have at least dimples where the holes for pins can be drilled out. This can be done with precision in the 3D drawing and should really help.
  17. The Rareplanes fuselage is correct - you don't need surgery. There's a good article by @Kiwikitbasher Mark Davies on building the Reareplanes kit. I certainly would not take bits of it to add to a Minicraft kit - there are better ways. As I say - if anyone is actually building one we can provide a bit of technical help. @krow113 - I hope you got a good price for it, they are very rare! I have never seen one and I have no idea how accurate or buildable it is. Looks like a @tomprobert project to me!
  18. The tailplane needs to be lifted. There used to be a conversion available for this but we haven't re-released it because Minicraft showed no signs of re-releasing the kit. https://www.hyperscale.com/2015/reviews/accessories/redroorrr7257reviewmd_1.htm The important part is at the bottom centre of the first picture, attached to its casting block. If anyone is actually building one we can do a bit of technical help.
  19. Indeed they do and are listening in this case. We have given them advice on Australian-themed items over the last few years. Read the link provided The Red Roo decal set which includes PP-B also has DJ287 PP-K from the same unit in the usual scheme. Dark Earth/Dark Green/Sky. After overhaul or damage repair they were repainted in RAAF colours - Foliage Green/Earth Brown/Sky Blue or later, overall Foliage Green. Lots to choose from. https://www.redroomodels.com/product/raaf-ansons/
  20. The RAAF Catalina squadrons' largest contribution to the war effort was mining. There is an excellent book with an overview and detailed accounts of this war effort https://www.newcastleherald.com.au/story/6616203/the-secret-life-of-the-catalinas-of-rathmines/ Indeed the Double Sunrise service was Qantas - not RAAF. You can even make a model........... https://www.redroomodels.com/product/dk-decals-catalina-five-qantas-stars/ Also available in 1/72
  21. My modelling resolution for last year was to build more biplanes and multi-engines. I have been moderately successful (Gauntlet, Gladiator, Venturas, Ki-54 as well as single engine stuff) but I am carrying on the resolution into 2022. For a WW2 conventional builder this is a real leap - a 3D printed WW1 biplane. A little company called Hobartville Hobbies (not in Tasmania as you might think, but an hour WNW of Sydney) is making a range of early aircraft flown by the AFC and RAAF. The first in the range was the DH.6 and the next is the AW FK.3, the Little Ack. What you get is this It consistes of 38 3D printed parts. a decal sheet and instructions. Here are the rather delicate parts They have a similar feel to resin parts - not surprising as that is basically what they are. The striations associated with 3D printing are there but they are certainly not pronounced. I sanded the larger surfaces quite lightly. I was tempted to spray a coat of Mr Surfacer or similar but I felt that it might obscure the detail. Similarly sanding more heavily will remove the striations but also remove the surface detail. Let's take a light approach and see how it goes. Painting the interior and joining the fuselage halves are like any resin kit. The locating pins on the halves are very precise and the fit is good. Gel cyanoacrylate cement works well and the minor seam blemishes were filled with ordinary model filler. I used Perfect Plastic Putty which is fine for very small seams but not much else. The underside had a bit of a reverse curve and this was filled with Tamiya White Putty. Next we can look at the wings.
  22. The colour profiles are years old and do not necessarily reflect exactly what will be in the kit.
  23. Indeed it existed but it was not the standard Coastal Command camouflage drawn by pioneering RAAF historian Geoffrey Pentland. AW665 was delivered in Dark Green, Dark Earth, Sky camouflage and repainted after repair in Earth Brown, Foliage Green, Sky Blue camouflage. The documentation of the trial shows it involved only the undersurface and the only colours mentioned are Gloss White and Matt White, so why would you bother repainting the upper surface? Manpower for maintenance is often mentioned as a critical factor at the time. The Coastal Command codes specified at the time were not Red but Light Slate Grey. Red had been removed in the RAF and RAAF for some time due to confusion with Japanese markings. Pentland likely did not have access to the full documentation. I am sure Airfix are aware of that. Not a difficult modification anyway.
  • Create New...