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1/24 Land Rover Series 3 SWB [88"] Conversion


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Here's my current build, hot on the heels of finishing the 109 Wrecker.

Kit is the new Revell Commercial version of the Landy. Apart from the obvious body shell differences there are a few other changes and additions in this boxing over the Station Wagon version. This along with a new Trans Kit set from M******z will morph into a SWB 88" Van, if that's the correct term for the enclosed rear body version. Anyway on with the build, or should I say distruction?

 

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The cut line for this runs up the rear shut line of the cab door, rearwards along the gutter to a point corresponding with the length of the new side panels.

 

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For ease of marking I laid some masking tape over the roof and used the supplied marking/scribing piece supplied before attacking it with a JLC saw. Other saws are available and equally as good at taking chunks out of your fingers.

 

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Then the rear panel was cut off in a similar manner, and here is what's left.

 

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Edited by mbdesignart
typo
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That's a very neat bit of plastic surgery if I may say so!  This one's going to be fun to follow - I'll get the popcorn on. 

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And so onto the interior tub. Fortunately the cut line aligned with two cutouts for the tabs on the kit interior trim parts, more scoring and sawing. Some fingers are still left 😀

 

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For the SWB version spare wheel locations are on the bulkhead backing the front seats or bonnet, or just thrown in the back to rattle around. The two cutouts in the inner arches need filling, plasticard and filler to the rescue. After much filing with two grades of Mr. Surfacer I still wasn't happy with the result so I slapped on some 0.25 plasticard to cover the whole top pieces. The conversion set comes with two triangular blocks to add to the front of the inner arches and a new bulkhead.

 

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The fuel filler on this version moves along the side to just aft of the cab door with the filler pipe dinking into the load area before dropping down to the tank below the driver's seat. No health and safety in those days! There's a faceted cover for this.

The kit rear door inner panel gets the locating tabs removed to sit flush. The transmission tunnel and seat base front panel have also been attached. A trial fit of the 'plush' seat option highlighted a fitment issue in that the slots needed opening up and I also shaved off the front of the tabs on the seats. The long ribs on the floor were shaved off too, as reference photos do not show these.

 

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And with a coat of primer. Can you spot the spare wheel bolt and wing nut fixing?

 

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Thanks for the comments. I meant to add that there are plenty of videos on YouTube unboxing the Revell kit.

 

 

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On 6/26/2023 at 3:59 AM, mbdesignart said:

used the supplied marking/scribing piece supplied before attacking it with a JLC saw

Nice touch!  That should take some of the jitters out of cutting into a new kit.

Looking good!

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Time to reassemble the bodyshell with the new resin bits. I opted for the solid van sides, although I was tempted by one I saw on the internet of truth which had a commercial style window on the left and solid on the right side. However, I have a custom paint scheme in mind which would look better without side windows. During research I also saw many options for the rear panel door arrangement, Landy builds appear to be a pick-n-mix affair.

Fitting the sides was straightforward with the sides having tabs to locate onto the kit bits, rather than just being a butt joint, I also decided to add the roof ribs, made from 0.25 plasticard and 1x1mm square strip. Happily the rear panel has the ends of these on the top edge for spacing. Here's the state so far with an initial coat of primer. Next up the chassis...

 

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This looks like it’s coming together nicely.  I assume it will have the kits 6-cylinder so will you nail the bonnet shut or is there a cunning plan (or just assume re-engined from a 109)?

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1 hour ago, malpaso said:

This looks like it’s coming together nicely.  I assume it will have the kits 6-cylinder so will you nail the bonnet shut or is there a cunning plan (or just assume re-engined from a 109)?

No I'll be installing a 2.25 Petrol engine. Shoehorn at the ready.

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Having bought the Italeri 109" 4x4 as it would be easier to convert to 88" than the Revell kits, along comes Motobitz with all the hard work done. Now I need another Revell kit (butchering my current one for a C1 Models Transkit) and a Motobitz 88" Transkit; just as I promised myself I 'won't but any more kits'.

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On 7/3/2023 at 10:25 AM, Natter said:

 I 'won't but any more kits'.

Famous last words? 🤣

 

Having looked at the bodyshell and rattled around in the kit box I found I'd forgotten to add the front windscreen frame. Unfortunately this is slightly warped and I'm hoping the warm water trick will solve the issue. And so onto the chassis. Having looked at what others did by butchering the kit chassis and not being too enamoured with the front steerable hub assembly, after all I won't be intending to run it across the carpet and have need of turning to avoid the skirting boards [bruum, bruum], I decided to find some references for a scratch build. There are some works plans on t'net which helped and along with a workshop manual I came up with something a bit more suitable. Here is the nest of bits off the printer. If only it could print in thin air.

 

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And hey presto, after much desupporting and a bit of superglue and primer.

 

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I've given the chassis a coat of Halfords bog standard silver rattle can which gives a good galvanised finish. The axles, springs and steering arms need a coat of black and the petrol tank and other bits are yet to be assembled. Photos to follow on the next update.

Thanks for following along and chipping in with the comments.

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Thousands of times better than the Revell toy-tastic axles and steering linkages. I have had to (simply had to) order the 88" conversion transkit and 2 1/4 engine from Motobitz, so following this one quite closely.

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5 hours ago, mbdesignart said:

just to upset the purists.

Not many Series Land Rovers are 'original' anyway (mine has matching chassis, engine and gearbox numbers and original paint so is a bit of an anomaly), so purists are a little like rivet counters. They have an opinion, but it is just that; merely an opinion. I, for one, am looking forward to the colour going on.

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3 hours ago, Anteater said:

It's looking good. 

 

This might seem like a mundane question but what brand and type of saw do you use for making the accurate cuts required to the body? 

Thanks. I use a JLC saw. I think purchased from Modelling Tools. Blades, shaped a bit like old razor blades, have two edges, one course one ultra fine. I use a scalpel to score the lines prior to sawing.

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The green is on, TS-20. Although there was almost an explosion in the spary booth. I though I'd decant the paint from the rattle can into a small glass jar, leave to degass then apply by airbrush. As it was freezing after decanting I thought pop it into a small jar of warm water. Turned my back and wondered what the high pitched whine was? Honed in on the glass jar and thought I'd twist the cap a little, big escape of air, just in time to avert an explosion and a kitchen redecorate!

I'll let this harden off then mask the grahics and spray the roof the same colour.

 

PS I always do my build as I want, if others don't like them, tough!

 

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Nice save with the degassing time-bomb. That's a striking choice of colour, it really suits the 88". Have you made a choice of wheel colour to complement the metallic green?

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2 hours ago, mbdesignart said:

PS I always do my build as I want, if others don't like them, tough!

:rofl:

 

Someone else from the same school of model building. :clap2:

 

Mike

IPMS Land Rover SIG

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