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About Natter

  • Birthday 06/06/1964

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  • Location
    Tiverton, Devon
  • Interests
    Modelling, Land Rovers

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  1. What a truly dreadful thought. Take yourself off to a dark, cold damp room and wash your mouth out with coal tar soap.
  2. Here it is, Airfix's new 1/43 Land Rover Series 1 Pickup. The registration of the Dunsfold Collection's Series 1 Pickup is RYD436, so this model could possibly (just possibly) be based on this original. The kit is great. The details is excellent for the scale, the fit is absolutely superb, so much so that one layer of paint on the mating surfaces could spoil the alignment. The plastic is the newer, harder compound and the clear parts are beautifully, er, clear. On the down-side, there are no gear levers and there is no exhaust. The gear levers are a simple scratch but the exhaust may be a bit trickier; I just built mine from the box. It's a kerb-side model with reasonable detail underneath, and the gearbox is way more accurate than Revell's dreadful representation on their 1/24 kit. Recommended? Most definitely. Here are the photos:
  3. Another stunner from your workbench Mat. Superb detailing and your signature perfect paintwork.
  4. That's really, really nice. Some cracking paintwork on a well built model.
  5. That's a lovely model. It just makes me hanker after a 1:1 750-4, but they're even more expensive than the Tamiya kit!
  6. This has just landed on my doormat, picked up from an auction site for lots less than the RRP: I was looking for one at a reasonable price to convert to an 88" using Motobitz' amazing 3D printed resin conversion. As Revell provides the 6 cyl engine I also purchased Motobitz' 2 1/4 4 cyl engine. Fingers crossed I'll have it ready for Telford this year, but don't hold your breath...
  7. As an aside, I usually use Humbrol Gloss Black enamel as my go-to base coat for Alclad and A-Stand metallics. Give it a couple of days to dry and mist the metallics over it for a great finish. Don't go too heavy on the metallics or they'll melt the gloss black base coat; don't ask me how I know...
  8. Thank you Mike for a comprehensive review. There are a few things to be wary of if anyone chooses to build the Left Hand Drive (LHD) version of the Land Rover from this kit. There is no such thing as a LHD gearbox, therefore the gear levers are on the same side of the vehicle regardless of which side the steering wheel is located. Revell made this error with their release of the Station Wagon model, and again with this kit. Considering how many references there are for the layout of the Land Rover controls, this error is inexplicable. Whether you choose to build the LHD or the RHD version, only use part 198 as shown in Section 9 of the instructions. Do not use part 197 as this part is incorrect. It's just wrong. With this in mind, ignore Section 24 of the instructions, this section is erroneous. Section 25 locations are correct for both LHD and RHD versions of the Land Rover. The apart from the main gear change lever on the top of the tunnel, all the other gear levers are on the right side of the transmission tunnel. Part 46 is the high/low ratio selector and should have the red top, not part 202. I think Part 202 represents an overdrive selector, which should have therefore a black top. Note: Sections 22 and 23 are correct The hand brake lever is mounted on front of the seat box on the same side as the steering wheel. Sections 30 and 35 have confused me somewhat. The rear bulkhead of a Land Rover (not the Station Wagon) is a structural part of the body. I haven't found any references for the removal of the centre section of the rear bulkhead anywhere, no matter what the export market, unless it was done by the owner themselves. Personally I believe the bulkhead, part 203, should be left complete and not cut as the instructions suggest. Interestingly Revell have moulded the rear door as the cat flap type, but with a hinged tailgate. This is unusual as the tailgates were originally the fold-down type, and adding hinges would be an aftermarket fit. The same toy-like steering gear and the overly high suspension carry over from the Station Wagon kit, but you pays your money and you takes your choice.
  9. Yep. I only built it as a tribute, I certainly wouldn't shell out the full asking price for one.
  10. I love this stuff. I used Alclad Black Chrome on a motorcycle exhaust: A-Stand is almost exactly the same, so the 'black chrome' isn't quite as black as I had expected, but is still a gorgeous metallic.
  11. Technicals are almost always Toyotas. I wonder why - and so did the US Government! 'You want to go out in to the Outback, take a Land Rover. If you want to come back, take a Toyota'. I still love my Landies though.
  12. After a check it is clear I have done the tyres correctly, but transposed the front left and rear right wheels when attaching them. They are epoxied to within an inch of their resin lives, and cutting the axles to swap them over will mean locking the front wheels as it will disrupt the steering mechanism. Rats. I shall spend a few nights crying myself to sleep, and then get over it as I do my next model!
  13. Aaaaaaargh... I thought I had put them on all the right way. This is completely my error as the tyres are separate from the wheels in the kit, and now I hate myself...
  14. Not the easiest kit to make in to a good model, but you have nailed it. Beautiful.
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