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Anteater

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Everything posted by Anteater

  1. Nice work. I had to narrow the Jag axle in the Mustang I'm working on but managed to get it off the hubs. You've done well to keep it all square with the amount you've taken out.
  2. Looking great and you've made a nice job of that dashboard, even if that bizarre L-shaped single spoke in the steering wheel would seriously jangle my head.
  3. Engine looks good. Where did you get the resin interior from? It's plush by Mk2 standards.
  4. This seller does some resin door handles and window winders. I've never bought any so don't know if they're any good, but at least they're a UK seller so postage should be sensible. https://spinneyworld.com/collections/modelling?sort_by=best-selling&filter.p.m.custom.model_scale=1%3A24&filter.v.price.gte=&filter.v.price.lte= As it turns out, after applying more light to the subject I realised Revell had in fact moulded the handles, just very lightly and largely concealed by my red primer. A bit of silver paint has picked them out. Here's the interior put together, complete with some aftermarket lap belts which I thought should be the minimum for a sporting car of the mid-60s. I like painting wood effect so it's got the Shelby wood-rimmed wheel. Such wheels are nice to look at but horrible to use, it'd be the first thing I'd change if it were real. I got some shots on the window sill this afternoon, not ideal light but about the brightest it's been for weeks! Just look at that purple carpet, mmmm... furry...
  5. Looking good, but a little thinner and more outboard, is my suggestion. The more of a triangle you can make, the stronger and more stable it will be.
  6. STANCE! I think thin wire twin supports in a V shape back to the firewall would look good and be prototypical. As for headlamps, retaining the 2CV lamps would keep the spirit of the Citroen face, but would they be too small a diameter? Mock them up them and put it to a public vote! (then do whatever you want because it's your project and you're doing fine so far)
  7. Yeah, I figured out a while ago that although you can buy sticky felt in many colours, I only need black because any colour can be misted on. You won't get a bright shade but it gives better scale colour which should complement seats and door cards in the same pallette.
  8. I had a bit more time this week so made a start on the interior tub. I like red interiors in old American motors (blame Joel Meyerowitz) and I don't really care if the 350GT-H only came with black trim. Sticky felt for carpets, but I only have black so overpainted them with the same shade, Halfords Red Plastic Primer. The fastback has a folding rear seat and I'm not 100% sure I've got the carpeting correct back there, but it looks better than not having it. I did originally paint the dash top black but it looked wrong so I've fully committed to the red. Note (or maybe don't note) the large chrome strips that run up the outer edges of the front seats. Drop the seats in and they're hardly visible above the door line. The instructions would have me add arm rests to the door trims but I don't like them. I'm more fussed that Revell didn't bother with the distinctive chromed door releases or window winders so I'll have to make those. It'll help break up the red, or pink, or whatever shade the camera thinks it is this time.
  9. Ah right, that explains the modern era Monit, being a video from 2015. They appear to be using the Monit as a substitute for the original Terratrip which is now redundant (doesn't seem to be illuminated in that screengrab). Click through that link I posted a few messages back for the Stig Blomqvist Sierra and you'll find a nice clear shot of the dual display Terratrip 303. This, plus the similar looking 202 were very common fitment, and they also have the benefit of having brightly coloured buttons which will give a bit of interest at 1/24th scale. Lots of works teams used these. As a period alternative to Terratrip, the other big brand is Brantz. They still produce the digital display Lazer 3 which also has a colourful block of buttons and is good for 80s / 90s cars. A good compact tripmeter. Going back before digital tripmeters were a thing, you had the Halda TripMaster or TwinMaster (either single or dual counters). These are period correct for 60s and 70s cars and worth a load of money nowadays. Being mechanical, distance calibration is by means of changing the little cogs to either speed it up or slow it down as required. The twin counters can be either stacked or side by side depending on the model. You can buy a modern replica of these meters, this example is from Brantz. Finally, you may encounter an LCD Brantz such as the International 2 or 2S. This version displays average speed so is not permitted for most regularity rallying as it makes it a bit too easy to keep to an average speed. These are good for night events or long distance cars as the readouts are very clear. You can slip a red tinted panel over the front to reduce glare at night. All of the above rely on a wheel speed sensor for the pickup, but you won't be modelling one of those in 1/24th. Most people have a remote reset for digital meters as it can be hard to reach the unit when belted in. You might sometimes see what looks like a small tripmeter next to the main tripmeter but that is likely to be a "rallytimer", which is an expensive way of describing a stopwatch. As a final point of interest, both Brantz and Terratrip used to be based very close to each other in mid-Derbyshire before Brantz moved to Macc. Well, I find that interesting... Disclaimer: all photos clipped from the internet.
  10. Rover Group weren't that good at painting the real ones either, I wouldn't worry.
  11. Hi @mbdesignart, What's the source of that photograph, is it period or current? In my experience, a Terratrip is a more typical trip meter of the 1980s. See this link for an example (you'll have to scroll through the photos). https://www.dhrofgo.com/for-sale/1988-ford-sierra-rs-cosworth-group-a-works-rally-car-highly-original-ex-stig-blomqvist-world-rally-car/ I only really started hearing of Monit a few years ago and a flick though the Reinhard Klein "Rally Cars" book only seems to show Brantz, Terratrip or Haldas from what I can decipher. Basically, that Monit doesn't look like original equipment from 30-odd years ago. Unless anyone can prove otherwise...? Nobody had a Monit when I started competing 20 odd years back and they're still not the most common.
  12. That's a great technique for narrowing the bodywork, I am impressed. Do the front arches need modification too or will they remain? Having done a bit of Googling it's clear there were many evolutions of the shape between the original Ace and the Cobra, so I suppose you can't go far wrong.
  13. Well, this is shaping up very nicely indeed. 👍
  14. I'm surprised this kit has a few fundamental challenges. Top marks for resolving the window issue because it will absolutely make a difference.
  15. Back on with the Mustang. I've resolved the erroneous seam by sanding and repainting but that doesn't really lend itself to photos. I'm not very good at large decals so part of the appeal of building this Mustang is to practice with the broad stripes that run over the car. I'll call this a passable result. I'll be peppering it with matt top coat which will either make it look worse or better. After that I mocked it back up with the red interior tub, a welcome flash of colour.
  16. New "roadmap" has been announced... https://dirtfish.com/rally/wrc/what-dirtfish-says-about-the-wrcs-new-direction/
  17. You must be on my in-car video then. Assuming you hung around long enough
  18. Tyre warming eh, what a luxury, I wish I could afford the additional wear! It was a superb event, challenging stages ranging from long sections flat in fifth followed by tight snickety bits coated in slimy mud. Loads of people off the road, must have been about 7 cars in ditches on Stage 1 alone. Good quality roads too, the council had obviously done some patching of the worst potholes. Great atmosphere in Beverley market place and big crowds just up the road at Westwood, must have brought a lot of money into the town.
  19. I think that's right too. I'm no expert on X-Packs bit I always though the official X-Pack kits were RS2000 only, whereas flat front kits were aftermarket copies and much rarer? The best looking official X-Pack was the MkII Capri but that's off-topic.
  20. Yeah, Monaco, they can keep it. Nowhere to park a van and you can't get a decent pint. The red interior is a dead cert now, as will be gold Shelby stripes. I've got plans for a few little extras too.
  21. It's not been a good week for painting, damp and foggy. Still, I managed to get a few coats of Simoniz Satin Black on the shell. This car is going to be weathered so I'm not looking for a mirror-like shine. It goes on a bit bloomy but cuts back quite well. See before and after: Suddenly looking a lot more moody. Don't worry about the high spots where I've burned through, easily fixed, However, it wasn't until the paint went on that I noticed the seam on each side by the side windows. A localised sand, prime and repaint needed there.
  22. Really impressive stuff. On the subject of harnesses, on a build like yours which is unashamedly modern Mini, looping them over the harness bars is the way to go. Using eyebolts into reinforcement plates through the rear seat pan/floor is still acceptable for a road car but it's an old fashioned way to do it. The very old way was to install eye bolts on the rear parcel shelf but that's a very bad idea indeed.
  23. Gosh, it's been a busy weekend. Firstly a very well received address to the ARDIC, which is the association for all technical staff leaders of Cities and Municipalities of southern Belgium, then a frankly awkward lunch with a tired and emotional Princess Stephanie of Monaco, followed by the latest in what is proving to be a very difficult casting call for my planned glove-puppet based stage show revival of 1978-1979 British detective drama Hazell, as co-written by the late Terry Venables. But in between all of that, this... The Shelby bonnet with functional air scoop. Those poorly detailed bonnet pins have now gone in readiness for PE. The body has received a coat of Fine Surface Primer. I like the air scoops on the side, for cooling of the rear brakes apparently. I made sure to paint the insides black before sticking them on as it'd be tricky to blow paint inside. And here is an assemblage of parts in my high tech spray booth facility. The colour of the bonnet should give you an idea where I'm going. I'm just seeing what the interior may look like in primer red because I have a thing for red interiors on American cars. The GT350H came with an interior the colour of a coal bunker, but it seems a shame to lose the detail. I'm open to suggestions, as long as they align with mine. ANTEATER
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