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Everything posted by Anteater

  1. I never knew there was such a thing! Call me traditional but I strictly stick to eating them.
  2. What they all said, an outstanding finish. Well done.
  3. Top marks for planning a conversion to three doors. I'm going to be well impressed when (not if) you pull this off!
  4. I'm a bit late catching up with this but that's frustrating regarding the bonnet paint. Still, I'm sure you'll rectify it with another can. Here's a question - are you going to lacquer it? I tried a TS metallic for the first time on my Eunos build and it doesn't really need lacquer in that instance. Will you be going for high gloss or a more period finish?
  5. Back on with the Eunos, and 6 weeks from starting (I could have built a real one in this time) I finally found a few hours to get the chassis done. Here it is in its natural state, with only the half-engine picked out in aluminium paint. I think Revell did a version with a full engine but this Tamiya is a simple kerbside kit and the part count is pretty low. Therefore it didn't take too long to get from this; ... to this; It might be an old moulding but it falls together with no problem. I bet with the number of these Tamiya have knocked out over the past 33 years they must have replaced the tooling to keep it fresh. Needless to say, it all locates perfectly and everything looks straight; straighter than the subject of this build which never ran exactly true anyway. There now follows a short interlude while I find some more spare time... ANTEATER PAUSED
  6. Just trying to help, mister!! Seriously though, what a swindle. Nothing like the box art at all! I do suspect somebody somewhere will have made a resin Golf 3 door shell, considering I have seen Golf Estate and Vento saloon bodies in resin. Almost certainly won't be cheap though. Potentially easier for your friend to change her real car for a five door...
  7. Nice weathering. That's the thing about being subtle, it doesn't always show well on camera... but you know it's done correctly.
  8. You could try scanning them to reprint copies yourself on decal paper. Nice kit, by the way.
  9. Try counting again. If upon completing the count you have used all four fingers and one thumb, then it's definitely not a three door. Does that help?
  10. Looks great. Models like this always interest me more than ones built as perfect examples. This has some life to it.
  11. Very nice. I have one in the stash; anything to look out for when building it?
  12. Nice work so far, you are fair cracking on with it. I must say those clear body panels and Heller's solution for window masking would put me off. I can't honestly see how it would make it easier for beginners, but it surely makes it more difficult for anyone else!
  13. Genuinely very impressive. I love the last shot of the Beetle with the T1 van.
  14. Isn't that just lovely. I've driven and been in more than my fair share of stuff but never knowingly travelled in one of these. When I used to walk to what was laughingly called school, there was a house I used to pass with a then-new SD1 parked outside. It was a glorious bright red twin-plenum Vitesse with a huge front air dam, leather trim and a car-phone the size of a breeze block. Compared to the stodgy old rubbish that was the usual fare around the black hole of hopelessness I was obliged to call home, it stuck out a mile. I can only imagine the dude had an unimaginably cool job like rocket tester or director of Duran Duran videos, but more likely he worked in "imports and exports". Either way, top work.
  15. My glacial pace continues unabated with the addition of rear lights. They were smoked on the real thing so I painted red and amber tint on the inside and over coated that with a gun metal and silver mix. Glad I got the reverser lights roughly circular as nothing sticks out more than a wonky circle. More drama coming soon (ish).
  16. Look great. Interesting having the Corolla for size comparison too. The SWB variants wouldn't be much longer than a Tranny van by the looks of things.
  17. Love this. I'd like to have a crack at a lorry but the default 1/24 just seems too big in terms of shelf space. However, checking out what's available in 1/32, they seem to be even more expensive than 1/24. Perhaps I'm looking in the wrong places.
  18. A quick update on the G-Limited. We're having some pretty disruptive building works done to the house so there's masonry dust everywhere, not ideal conditions for painting. Ergo, I elected not to lacquer but to polish instead. I know I should probably have found an undusty corner in which to spray the clear coat, but using cutting compound on the blue was easier and quicker. Believe it or not, it worked quiet well. Exhibits A and B; My photo skillz are obviously lacking as it does look more metallic in real life, but the effect is pleasingly subtle and relatively true to scale. The real thing wasn't super shiny anyway. If I was being completely prototypical I'd need to paint every other panel a fractionally different shade... ANTEATER
  19. Blimey, it's high stakes stuff! Good job it's a cheap kit. That was exactly my concern about flatting a metallic @Six97s, but if what happened to @johnlambert occurs, it'll be a problem either way. @mikevillena I've got enough shots of the old car for reference but thanks for the offer. Satellite Blue was a mica paint so I assume it must have been clear coated. Our particular car was several different interpretations of Satellite Blue. It had seen a bit action over the years, and I added yet another shade when I had to replace the nosecone...
  20. The metallic effect is definitely there, but I expect lacquering will bring it out most effectively. I plan to flat it a little before clear coating, hopefully the metallic effect won't be lost but I don't see why it would be.
  21. Now you see, if you hadn't have said anything we wouldn't have known. Nice save.
  22. I took advantage of the decent weather to shoot some TS-53 onto the body and it's gone unusually well, despite a pigeon getting into the spraying room. My plan had been to lightly paint the body, remove the two masking circles and locate the spoiler, then spray onwards. Same with fitting the door mirrors, my logic being any glue marks or blooming would then be dealt with by top coating in blue. But now, I don't think it needs any more blue... I'll let it harden for a few days then polish it and see what it looks like. I might not need to clear coat after all; I mean the original car wasn't super-shiny to start with. It would benefit from picking out the panel lines either way. Plenty of time yet for something to go wrong.
  23. A great result from a simple kit, looks far more impressive than the sum of its parts. That's a strange interpretation of Mazda Soul Red though, perhaps it's the camera but the shade is closer to orange on my screen? It is however a perfect paint finish so everything you did is not in question.
  24. Believe it or not Keith, an early 1600cc MX-5 is now HRCR historic legal. Shoot me now. Onwards, our particular G-Limited had a Mazda option rear spoiler, without which the powerful 1800cc model would surely have flipped in the air or something. The Tamiya kit doesn't include such an item so I'll have to make one. I cunningly fashioned a piece of plasticard... Into this... passable I think. The side repeaters are moulded in clear but the chances of me fitting them cleanly once the shell is painted are non-existent. Hence, I glued them in place before applying Tamiya Fine Surface primer. I'd only have to paint them silver before tinting with amber anyway. And here it is primered. Good stuff, the Fine Surface product, not cheap but worth it. The body mould is pretty clean. No flash to remove but a few lines to contend with on the rear wing tops and bumpers. Next up I'll apply the TS-53 metallic deep blue. I've read that the Tamiya clear coat can be troublesome so I plan to clear coat it with some Halfords lacquer I have in stock. It's not something I've done before so any real life guidance is welcome as experiences seem to vary. I'll let the paint properly harden before lacquering but should I flat it before lacquer, or just apply straight and polish the lacquer coat? Anteater
  25. SD1 YES! Now, how about a MkIII Capri to keep it company...?
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