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Found 1,636 results

  1. Hello. Here is my F-15E Strike Eagle in 1/48.
  2. Evening folks, in the post Brexit world it was decided by the UK government to procure a dedicated VIP transport to fly the flag for the PM and Royal family members around the world on business and goodwill visits.With the RAF operating Airbus aircraft the A350 was chosen to take on this role.Much about the aircraft is highly classified the rear fuselage has a full ECM and AWACS suite set around a new radar system designed by Northrop Grumman electronic systems and sensors.Other features rumoured are radar absorbent paint and the provision for a missile defence system,built for the film/speculative GB based on the excellent Revell kit.
  3. I'm going to attempt to make the second of the three of these in my stash as an FG1. The only major issue is those slotted tailplanes, but I'll worry about those later. It might be a case of cutting into them, or just leaving them and pretend slats aren't a thing on FG1s! However, I'll do my best on the rest of it, including these extra decals I bought especially a while ago (before I came on here and learned of those damned slats!). So she'll be camo, and my usual everything hanging out and down or open, regardless of the realities of hydraulics, etc, just because I think they look cooler like that. The box, familiar to millions: Extra decals! I'll need to add the red/blue roundel over the red/white/blue as I'm doing her to represent the early 80s colours. Furniture assembled and painted. Added my usual masking tape straps. I'd forgotten that Revell didn't include cockpit decals. Ok for some of you on here with your fancy painting skills, but I need decals! Did my best with a black biro anyway.
  4. So far i've built a 144th scale and 2 of the 72nd scale This happens to be my 4th overall build ever...48th Scale...and am still learning... I went for the #32 French Rafale M instructions from the box Since I have to use locally sourced resources...like student/fabric acrylic colours instead of pro grade airbrush paints, I had to experiment a looooooot right from making DIY thinner to using inks for transparent parts to using clear epoxy glue as glass on GBU sensor tips I also had to learn how to use soft pastels as weathering powder...that was fun It's mostly OTB, but I call the build custom ...because the reffernce of #32 rafale m was clean and I wanted to throw in as many learning opportunities in this build as I could... that includes some differently coloured panels (which also serve as excuse to cover up scratches i accidentally caused ) The cockpit has mostly a standard build because I wanted a closed canopy but added some scratch-built details on the Seat like belts and pipes, mirrors on canopy etc (see build log image) Added some wires and stuff to landing gear detail Obviously there are mistakes and errors ..tons of them...some mine...some resource limitations...and some revell's doing (Light on the right is supposed to be green but the instructions said blue...and i was sleepy )... Colours are all mixed from standard Six pack of student acrylic colours so i'll take creative freedom on colour accuracy but tried my best Find my Full Album (45 images) on Flickr Here --->
  5. Hi everybody; here's my new project, the 1/72 Revell Eurofighter Typhoon This type entered into Italian Air Force service (AMI, Aeronautica Militare Italiana) in 2004, and it's currently deployed in three different bases: Grosseto (4° Stormo), Gioia del Colle (36° Stormo) and Trapani Birgi (37° Stormo). The kit supplied decals allow to build six different versions: two Germans, one Austrian, one British, one Spanish and one Italian, which is the one I'm doing. Typical Revell instruction sheet, with basically useless color table - it only refers to Revell paints The airframe I'm going to reproduce and the sprues (there's many of them ) The clear parts: the windshield shows some bubbles While the canopy has an annoying moulding seam going all along mid-line I'm planning to use the AM cockpit set from PAVLA More later, now I need to take care of my lawn. Ciao
  6. Iron Maiden Aces High Spitfire Mk.II (07047) 1:32 Revell The Spitfire II was created when the early mark I Spitfire was fitted with the new 1,175 HP Merlin XII engine, but enough about that! In 1984 Iron Maiden released their fifth studio album "Powerslave". Track one on this album was "Aces High" with the lyrics being written from the view point of an RAF Battle Of Britain Pilot. The art work for this song features the bands mascot "Eddie the Head" in the cockpit of a Spitfire. Aces High would go on to be one of the bands most popular songs and would often feature as the opening song for concerts. The Kit This is a re-release of Revell's 2014 new tool kit with a new spure containing two "Eddie" figures and a new decal sheet. If building the kit with the seated "Eddie" at the controls then the first thing for the modeller to do is build that figure. Next up the cockpit for him to sit in is built up. and said Eddie can be placed in. After a few extra parts are included in the fuselage sides, and the tail wheel is added; the cockpit can be placed inside the fuselage and it closed up. Next up the wing are made up. There is one single lower, and left/right uppers. The main wheel wells must be placed inside the wings before the go together. They can now be added to the fuselage. The tailplanes and their control surfaces are now made up, and along with the rudder can be added to the fuselage. The ailerons are also added to the wings at this time., with the wing tips going on also. On the underside of the fuselage the underside part of the engine cowling completes that. Flaps can then be added either in the open or closed positions. On the underside of the wings the oil cooler and main radiator are added along with the centre line carb intake. The engine exhausts can then go on as well. Next up the main landing gear is constructed and added to the aircraft. The cockpit door goes on either open, or closed and the canopy is attached. Last up the prop is made up and placed on the front. Revell have also supplied a standing Eddie figure if you don't want to use the sitting one, or if you want to use both! Markings There are markings for the aircraft in the video and the aircraft for the stage show. These are printing in Italy by Cartograf so should pose no problems. Conclusion It's always good to see a Spitfire kit, even more so this one. Very Highly recommended if you are an Iron Maiden fan. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  7. Ok,folk's here's the premise,operational commitments meant that the dedicated VIP Voyager was needed for it's original tanking role,it was decided that due to the new trading partnerships being forged around the globe government ministers and Royal family members needed to fly the flag in a manner akin to the US Presidents Air Force one so a new a-550 was ordered for this role.Making and winning the case was Airbus as compatibility with the current RAF fleet meant costs were by far the most competitive.No drab gray aircraft for this one full hi viz marking's are the order of the day
  8. This will be my second build, it has been started with only interior painting and cockpit assembly commenced.
  9. Resistance A-Wing Fighter (06770) 1:44 Revell Star Wars has given us tons of memorable space ships to add to the annals of cool designs, and one that made its debut as a bit player in Return of the Jedi is the Kuat Systems A-Wing. It has been in various other Star Wars universe shows since and has been seen in the new trilogy too, although I’m yet to see the Rise of Skywalker, so no spoilers. The Kit This is a re-release and has been timed to coincide with the new film but has no Rise of Skywalker branding, just the generic Star Wars branding with Darth Vader in the top right corner of the box, which is end-opening, and has twenty five parts either suspended between two clear inserts, or in small bags to prevent loss and chaffing. The kit is in brick red and what I call “Star Wars Grey” overpaint, plus some of the innards in a darker grey. The interior of the hull contains the light and sound unit in dark grey with the batteries preinstalled, but isolated with a small clear pull-away tab, with the two yellow LEDs projecting down the exhausts to provide some illumination to the cut-away outer exhaust ports. The clear parts are painted with light grey framing, and a four-colour pilot figure is included with an olive-drab jumpsuit and red/white helmet, which would benefit greatly from a dark wash to bring out the details even if you’re not planning on detail painting. Everything snaps together as per the instructions, and detail is really quite good for the target audience, with lots of visual interest, plus a clear canopy that can be opened or closed and a pair of light diffuser inserts for the engines. Construction is fast, taking less than five minutes once I figured out that numbers AND letters were included on each part (more haste less speed), and everything clips together pretty firmly without the need for glue, although I’d recommend some for the more delicate parts such as the wingtip weapons. The landing gear is supplied and can be retracted in a rudimentary fashion by pivoting the legs into the open bays that would whistle terribly in atmosphere. The wingtip weapons have a key on their attachment pin, but be sure to mount them with the hollow “anti-sink-mark” cut-outs facing downward, or fill them and repaint. As usual with these kits there’s a grille for the speaker to render its tune, which in this case is limited to two sounds activated by a button on the right to the side of the cockpit rear. On first press it plays a take-off and shooting noise, with a similar swooping and shooting noise, repeating each one in turn on subsequent presses. As you press the button the yellow LEDs light and stay on until the sound effect has completed, which should give little Johnny or Jemima adequate time to complete their manoeuvres before going dark. Conclusion This is intended to be a toy that gets a pounding from a child of 6 or over, so it’s made of stronger plastic than your average model for longevity. It does have a good level of detail for a toy though, and at 1:44 scale it’s a good size. If you decide to give it to a child they’ll be very happy with it (if they like Star Wars), and if you build it as a model, there’s plenty of scope for repainting it and adding some details. The canopy isn’t the clearest in the world, but that’s probably due to the flexible plastic is has been moulded in that is unlikely to maim the child if it breaks during rough play. You can get the same kit in blue if you’d prefer, or you could repaint it to a scheme that suits you. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  10. Hello all, This is the sister build to my Dodge Charger for the Film, Fictional and Speculative Group Build in the shape of the Ford Mustang GT Fastback belonging to the hero of the film Bullitt: Cheers, Mark.
  11. Hello all, This is a recently completed build for the Film, Fictional and Speculative Group Build, Revell's 1/25 Dodge Charge RT built as the baddie's car from one of my favourite movies Bullitt. It's also my first genuine attempt at scale auto paintwork. The wheels and hubs are a compromise solution (bodge) as the correct combination wasn't in the kit, the paint finish is achieved with Humbrol rattle can Gloss black with Tamiya rattle can clear coat. The white wall tyres were done by priming the tyre in white and masking off a ring and spraying the rest with Tamiya rubber black. The only thing I've added is the radio aerial. The chrome trim was an absolute killer but was done with a Molotow liquid chrome marker. WIP: Cheers, Mark.
  12. Hi all, Part 2 of my Bullitt themed build: Lt. Frank Bullitt's '68 Ford Mustang GT Fastback. Again no real work done except the same stripping, cleaning, mold removal and dulling of plastic in readiness of the primer. The caveat to these two builds is that they represent my first efforts with what seem to be quite decent and detailed kits of cars. I have previously made a kit of a Ford Capri 1600 GT for my Dad as a gift and painted up as his favourite motor but the kit itself left a lot to be desired as did my paintwork, so an improvement on that finish is my goal for these two models, but having researched I am amazed at the results some guy's can achieve, however I won't be able to use some of the noxious paints and clear coats they do, so we'll see. Anyway, I love this car too, if I ever win the lottery...it'll be a hard choice....maybe both! Cheers, Mark.
  13. So with 2 group builds just finished I figured I needed some more styrene on the workbench. I had this in the stash and figured hopefully it will fit into the GB as what if/speculative, since there were only 3 prototypes ever built, the first an engine less glider (which crashed on landing), the second crashing due to engine failure on a test flight and the third prototype being captured at the end of WWII whilst still in construction. None were ever fitted with weaponry and probably never had camouflage markings. More information here on wikipedia. I'll be doing a camo scheme of my own devising, also building the kit as in flight as it looks a bit goofy with the over-sized tricycle undercarriage and without the sensor (pitot?) that the kit has underneath, so keeping the clean lines. 7 All the parts (including clear) come in one sealed plastic bag. There's very few sprues / parts - one sprue being entirely taken up by the wings. Instructions are typical of Revell at the time, just 2 sheets of A3 printed in monochrome, folded together. The decals don't look great, the transparent parts being particularly bad - maybe I'll be able to find something in my bits box to replace them?
  14. Wtf? Two identical sprues? Very detailed panels,seats and cockpit area! Detailed exhaust and pipes! Seam Line Great decals Great panel lines Other...
  15. This is the first finish of 2020, a Revell 1/72 Tornado GR1 finished in 1998 17 Sqn colours from Bruggen. Built OOB except for the ubiquitous PJ Productions resin crew mates. Painted with Hataka modern RAF paints. The decals are the stock ones and didn't want to sit very well even on a very glossy surface and with lashings of microsol/microset. However not too displeased with the finished result Base is made from a beechwood kitchen draw front.
  16. Shar2

    MTB PT-109. 1:72

    MTB PT-109 Revell 1:72 PT-109 belonged to the PT 103 class of MTB’s, hundreds of which were completed between 1942 and 1945 by Elco. PT-109's keel was laid 4 March 1942 as the seventh Motor Torpedo Boat (MTB) of the 80-foot-long (24 m) 56 ton class, built by Elco and was launched on 20 June. She was delivered to the Navy on 10 July 1942, and fitted out in the New York Naval Shipyard in Brooklyn. The boats were manned by 3 officers and up to 12 crewmen. The Elco boats were the largest PT boats operated by the U.S. Navy during World War II, built with strong wooden hulls of two layers of 1-inch (2.5 cm) mahogany planking. Powered by three 12-cylinder 1,500 horsepower (1,100 kW) Packard petrol engines (one per propeller shaft), their designed top speed was 41 knots (76 km/h). For space and weight-distribution reasons, the center engine was mounted with the output end facing aft, with power directly transmitted to the propeller shaft. Because the center propeller was deeper, it left less of a wake, and was preferred by skippers for low-wake loitering. Both wing engines were mounted with the output flange facing forward, and power was transmitted through a Vee-drive gearbox to the propeller shafts. The engines were fitted with mufflers on the transom to direct the exhaust under water, which had to be bypassed for anything other than idle speed. These mufflers were used not only to mask their own noise from the enemy, but to be able to hear enemy aircraft, which were rarely detected overhead before firing their cannons or machine guns or dropping their bombs. The principal offensive weapon was her torpedoes. She was fitted with four 21-inch (53 cm) torpedo tubes containing Mark VIII torpedoes. They weighed 3,150 lb (1,429 kg) each, with 386-pound (175 kg) warheads and gave the tiny boats a punch at least theoretically effective even against armoured ships. Their typical speed of 36 knots (67 km/h) was effective against shipping, but because of rapid marine growth build-up on their hulls in the South Pacific and austere maintenance facilities in forward areas, American PT boats ended up being slower than the top speed of the Japanese destroyers and cruisers they were tasked with targeting in the Solomons. Torpedoes were also useless against shallow-draft barges, which were their most common targets. With their machine guns and 20 mm cannon, the PT boats could not return the large-calibre gunfire carried by destroyers, which had a much longer effective range, though they were effective against aircraft and ground targets. Because they were fueled with aviation gasoline, a direct hit to a PT boat's engine compartment sometimes resulted in a total loss of boat and crew. In order to have a chance of hitting their target, PT boats had to close to within 2 miles (3.2 km) for a shot, well within the gun range of destroyers; at this distance, a target could easily maneuver to avoid being hit. The boats approached in darkness, fired their torpedoes, which sometimes gave away their positions, and then fled behind smoke screens. Sometimes retreat was hampered by seaplanes dropping flares and bombs on the boats. The Elco torpedo-launching tubes were powered by a 3-inch (76 mm) black powder charge to expel the torpedo from the tube. Additionally, the torpedo was well greased so it would slide out of the tube. Sometimes, the powder charge caused the grease to ignite upon firing, and the resulting flash could give away the position of the PT boat. Crews of PT boats relied on their smaller size, speed and maneuverability, and darkness, to survive. Ahead of the torpedoes on PT-109 were two depth charges, omitted on most PTs, one on each side, about the same diameter as the torpedoes. These were designed to be used against submarines, but were sometimes used by PT commanders to confuse and discourage pursuing destroyers. PT-109 lost one of her two Mark 6 depth charges a month before Kennedy showed up when the starboard torpedo was inadvertently launched during a storm without first deploying the tube into firing position. The launching torpedo sheared away the depth charge mount and some of the foot rail. PT-109 had a single, 20 mm Oerlikon anti-aircraft mount at the rear with "109" painted on the mounting base, two open rotating turrets (designed by the same firm that produced the Tucker automobile), each with twin, .50-caliber (12.7 mm) anti-aircraft machine guns, at opposite corners of the open cockpit, and a smoke generator on her transom. These guns were effective against attacking aircraft. The day before her most famous mission, PT-109 crew lashed a U.S. Army 37 mm antitank gun to the foredeck, replacing a small, 2-man life raft. Timbers used to secure the weapon to the deck later helped save their lives when used as a float. The Model Although based on the old 1963 release, I believe that this kit is from new moulds, and this certainly look the case when looking at the sprues as they are the more modern enclosed style and the dated on the inner hull sections has definitely been changed. The mouldings are nicely done, although the detail does seem to be a little soft and the plastic is quite glossy. There are no major imperfections, but there are quite a few flow marks in the deck section and only a few moulding pips. There are eleven sprues and three hull sections in a medium grey styrene, three sprues in clear styrene and a small decal sheet. The build begins with the gluing together of the two hull halves and the midships bulkhead. The small insert on the lower bow is then added, as is the stern section which includes the propeller shaft and rudder holes, plus the transom which is moulded integrally. The crew rest area is made up from six parts and glued to the underside of the deck section, along with the interior steering position. Depending on whether you want to build PT 109 with the bow mounted 37mm howitzer or not will determine which holes you will need to drill out before add the deck tot eh hull. Three cleats ate then attached to the deck and the model turn over to fit the three propeller shafts, propellers and rudders. The six mufflers and their control rods are then attached to the transom. The superstructure is then built up using individual sides and bulkheads, most of which will need the clear window parts to be added before gluing into position. The roof sections will also need holes drilling out before being glued into position. The deck above the engine compartment is then fitted with a three piece skylight, 20mm cannon guide rails and four ventilators, this assembly is then glued in place, as is the gun deck immediately aft. The upper steering position is then assembled from the sides and bulkheads to which internal detail is added such as the boats wheel, internal bulkheads, searchlight and console. The forward roof section is then added as is the steering positions windscreen and aerial mast Each torpedo tube consists of four parts and once all four tubes are assembled the can be fitted to their respective positions on the deck, either stowed, or in firing positions. Each of the twin 50 cal machine gun turrets are assembled from four parts, with additional two parts of the guide cage around the top of the each turret. The 37mm consists of seven parts and is fitted to the foredeck, while the 20mm Oerlikon is an eight piece assembly fitted to the quarterdeck. There are two three piece depth charges fitted one per side on the foredeck. While on the quarterdeck the smoke discharger and ensign staff are glued into position. Lastly, the folding mast is fitted to the main cabin roof and can be posed raised or stowed. Decals Since there is only one option with this kit, naturally there aren’t too many decals. Other than those for the compass binnacles and instrument panel, there are also the hull depth markings, ensign and PT-109s codes for either side of the bow, bridge front and the 20mm cannon pedestal aft. There are also two large decals for the stands nameplates. Conclusion It’s nice to see this kit being updated, and for the most part it looks like a nice kit that can easily be detailed to the modellers own wishes and there are already etched detail sets from Eduard to help with this. Seeing as the plastic is quite glossy i would definitely prime before painting. It would make a nice introductory maritime model for those modellers new to the genre of narrow seas boats. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  17. Time to bite the bullet. Back in May I was asked by a friend of mine to build a Tonka for him. There was one on 56Sqn that he worked on regularly and that's the one he wants built, but could I actually do 2. 1 for him, 1 for someone else on the Sqn. "Not a problem" Said I. "What scale??" Errrrrrr. I'd like So big, Right, 1/48. Never having built that scale, this is going to be fun. I managed to track down 2 and was about to go extras shopping when the offer of the Eduard kit happened, so now, I have 3 - 1 for me! So, here we go! The last Revell I build was their 1/72 Lancaster, and I was mighty disappointed, but I had been advised that this was a good kit (and fell within budget) and looking through the boxes, I was nicely impressed with the detail and mould quality  Starting with the seats, as you do. I was quite happy until I'd finished and looked into the Warpaint book (and the GR4 at Duxford) Great Reference - Working on the cockpit, going to be the kit one. and only the one done on day 1 (as I was off to play with the Southend Vulcan) I sanded down all the raised controls on the sides and screens, because I wanted the decals provided to sit flat. Sadly, I'm not great on the fine detail, so rather than muck it up. I decided onto a flat part would be better. Hopefully its not too bad;  I then couldn't resist adding the seats for a quick idea of how it would look (Still need to be de-blacked)
  18. HNY to everyone. Last year was a very busy year for me, so have not been able to get on here as much as I would have liked. I guess my new years resolution will be to visit BritMod more. Thought I'd show off my conversion of the new LWB Revell III series Land Rover into a SWB version. If useful, I will post some of the pics I took of the deconstruction stage. Cheers Richard
  19. Land Rover Series III Long Wheel Base (07047) 1:24 Revell Its a Land Rover! I would imagine just about everyone on the Planet knows what one is. Since the original Series I was developed post war there have been many thousands built and are seen in just about every corner of the world. They are used by many military organisations as well as civilians, Series III production began in 1971 with the same body and engine options of the Series II including the Station Wagon or Long Wheel Base model. The main difference was the headlights being moved to the wings to comply with overseas regulations, for the LWB version there was also the option to make the interior more comfortable if the buyer wanted, though how much more comfortable it was is subjective ! The Kit This is a welcome new tool in 2019 from Revell. The kit arrives on 13 sprues, 2 sprues of clear plastic and the impressive single mould body. There are also 5 rubber tyres. Construction starts first with the engine. A complete engine & transmission is supplied in the kit. The engine is made up as is the gear box and the two are joined, They are then put aside and work moves to the floor pan which is a single part. Some cabin internals are added to the floor pan at this point, We then move to the chassis again another single part in the kit. The front axle and steering is attached to the chassis along with the leaf springs and their shocks. The fuel tanks is added at the rear along with the exhaust system and rear axle, The leaf springs for the rear then go on. Next up the engine and gear box go in along with all the power shafts. At the front of the engine goes the radiator and fan shroud. The floor pan can then go on the chassis. The gear stick and leavers for 2/4 wheel drive, and low/high range are then added. The instructions show these being handed depending on whether you are doing you vehicle Left hand or Right hand drive, though I am told by those in the know that these did not change from the UK position for a left hand drive vehicle. The next step is to make up and fit the seats. There are some variations here depending on which version you want to do. Next up the bumpers are added to the chassis and the lower vehicle internal body side are added. Inside the cabin the dashboard is added in to the main body moulding, and at the rear the tailgate is added. Steering and other controls are put on the dash. The windscreen is assembled and added as are the distinctive headlights and trademark Land Rover grill. All of the side windows, and rear window can then be placed in the top. The body can then be joined with the chassis/floor pan. To finish off the wheels are added, a roof mounted spare as well if the modeller wishes. There is the roof rack to add as well as the rear handles and lights. The bonnet can go on as can the front door mirrors. A couple of aerial finish things off. There is an option to leave the bonnet open with a stay being provided if needed. Markings There is a small decals sheet for a number of small markings and mainly vehicle license plates These are printing in Italy by Zanchetti so should pose no problems. Conclusion It's always good to see a Land Rover and this looks to be a great model from Revell with many possibilities. It is a shame the doors are moulded shut, but this should not detract from what is an excellent new tool kit from Revell. Very Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  20. I really wanted to enter this GB for two reasons - 1) I'm a big fan of all things luftwaffe - especially the Stuka and 2) despite this - I don't have a Stuka in my builds so far and wanted to rectify this. I did have the following kit in my stash so thought this would be the perfect chance to get it built: I'm still debating on which version I'll do - I'm swaying towards the standard splinter camo version rather than the North Africa scheme but let me know if you have any preference to help me decide. Here's where I'm up to after making a start today: Hopefully start to get some paint on the cockpit tomorrow and then keep making progress
  21. My last build of 2019 Saab JAS-39D from Revell. Nice model to look and and build tho a few inaccuracies in the model to correct. Mainly the angle of the nose gear door being at 45 deg and not vertical as per the instructions (paperclip mod required) Must thank Julien for the walkaround post that was invaluable for checking colours and position of the gear door. https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/71776-saab-gripen/
  22. As part of my effort to clear my backlog of started kits I have dug out my Matchbox Spitfire. I started this literaly decades ago, but didn’t get far. I have looked at it occasionally, but no action. Then I bought some Xtradecal decals for it, SAC MkIX undercarriage legs, MasterCasters interior, Master gun barrels. Finally I found out about the Grey Matter correction set for the nose, which of course I immediately ordered on a wim. Having now spent about ten times what the original kit cost, guilt has led me to this, my first WIP. It will not be a tutorial, I am not that good, it will not be a guide to the ultimate accurate Matchbox Spitfire, but posting about it will serve to prod me to get it built. With a little luck, at about the halfway point, somebody will announce a new accurate Mk 22/24 for you guys waiting for one. We will start with the nose, the Grey Matter nose is one seriously large accurate lump of resin. I may scratchbuild the u/c legs out of brass because even the SAC legs might fold under the weight! It also might be the first Spitfire build to need weight in the tail to prevent it becoming a nose sitter. You can see the difference with the kit item. The panel lines look much more to scale than the Matchbox lines-lol.
  23. First Order Heavy Assault Walker 1:164 Revell You might have heard of a series of films called Star Wars, and if you haven’t, why haven’t you used your internet connected device to get someone to retrieve you from under the wardrobe? The second film in the Sequel Trilogy as the three new films have become known introduced a host of new vehicles and ships, one of which was the Heavy Assault Walker with a designation AT-M6, and the nickname Gorilla Walker amongst the fandom due to its resemblance to the silverback gorilla in some ways. It is a gargantuan lumbering behemoth, dwarfing the previous AT-AT walkers by some significant margin, and is fitted with a massive forward firing cannon and heavy frontal armour, perhaps from lessons learned on Hoth? The Kit This is another of Revell’s rather good Build & Play range, and due to its size it has a fairly high part count for the range, at 46. It’s fairly close to 1:144 so wouldn’t look ridiculous next to a 1:144 AT-AT, but as our only other option for a model (note that this is a toy once complete), is a box scale offering from Bandai, it’s probably your best bet at the moment as a child AND as a modeller. It arrives in a standard B&P end-opening box with the large parts suspended within the clear packaging and the smaller parts in a number of clear bags hidden inside. It is moulded in dark grey styrene with only the cannon tip in a clear red styrene that is pre-assembled on the electronics module that fits within the body. Construction begins with the head and its lower half is detailed with a cockpit that also has two cannons moulded into its lower and has the neck detail moulded in top and bottom. The top of the head clips into the bottom and is joined by more cannons on each side above the dropped cheek armour. The lower hull is fitted with a rear bulkhead and is complete by its missing side and a smaller front bulkhead, then is topped off with one side of the upper armoured body The back-mounted large canisters halves are clipped together and inserted into the first side, then held in place by the opposite hull plate. At this stage your walker is legless, and these are the subject of the majority of the rest of the build. The front legs are highly armoured and have different feet than the rear legs, which resemble the legs of the ageing AT-ATs on a larger scale. The rear legs are made from the feet up, with the lower leg halves clamping around the foot’s pivot-point, then having the upper leg parts added that are held in place by the pivot pins at the knees and at the “hip” joints with the hull. Repeat this again, then move onto the front legs. These have a large flat foot that resembles the gorilla’s hands curled under to walk, and these too are clamped in place by the heavy lower front legs. Again the knees and hips are joined by pins that are pushed into place, and the penultimate job is to push the ball at the base of the neck into the socket in the lower front of the hull. The pre-assembled cannon unit is finally slotted into the recess in the hull over the head, and is operated by pushing down on the switch that activates the LED behind the clear red cannon tip and plays one of two samples, the first of which is the heavy clanking noise of the walker... walking, and a fusillade of cannon and blaster fire for the second sample. Both of these are well represented and seem to be direct copies from the film. Conclusion This is intended to be a toy that gets a pounding from a child of 6 or over, so it’s made of stronger plastic than your average model for longevity. It does have a good level of detail though, and at 1:164 scale it’s close(ish) enough to the kits from Bandai to mesh with their range. If you decide to give it to a child they’ll be very happy with it (if they like Star Wars), and if you build it as a model, there’s plenty of scope for repainting it and adding some additional details. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or 4
  24. Hi all, Here is my attempt to get back in the swing of things: The 68' Dodge Charger R/T from the 1968 movie 'Bullitt' staring 'Mr Cool' Steve Mc Queen, slimy Robert Vaughn and two nasty Mob hitmen and featuring THE seminal 'Car Chase' and a brilliant score by Lalo Schifrin. I had already made a limited start a while ago, but nothing more than stripping the chrome parts, washing all the parts and cleaning up the mold lines/sanding the body in preparation for primer and as you can see a few of the motor components have been assembled. I have some Flocking powder to do the interior of both cars and some paint and lacquer on order for both this and the Mustang. Such a cool car. Cheers, Mark.
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