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Found 1,360 results

  1. I was checking the instructions earlier today, and I noticed that Revell tells me I should file the top of piece C3 on step 3, but it doesn´t say how much or for what, can someone who has already build this model tell me how much plastic should I remove from this piece and why? Same thing goes for step 20, I´m told to sand the bombracks, but for what? Here are the instructions from Scalemates: https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/2/6/9/239269-81-instructions.pdf Thanks in advance.
  2. Bristol Beaufighter TF.X (03943) 1:48 Revell The Beaufighter was originally developed as a fighter variant of the Beaufort, aiming to utilise as many components from the light bomber as possible to speed development, construction and minimise tooling costs. It didn't quite work out that simply, as it needed additional power that could only be provided by the new Hercules engines that was in development, as even a Merlin engine would leave it underpowered as they later found out. This meant a mid-wing mount had to be created so that the props had sufficient ground clearance, and a skinnier fuselage was used to reduce weight and drag. It was still fairly quick to reach production, and although it wasn't as amazing as the Mosquito, it turned out to be a good multirole aircraft, able to assume roles for which it was never intended for. The TF.X was a later mark that was adapted to carry a torpedo slung under its belly, and mounted two Hercules XVII engines that had been tuned for low-altitude performance to improve the crew's chances of survival during an attack. Over 2,000 were built, and they were colloquially referred to as the Torbeau. The Kit This is a completely new tool from Revell, and one of the first to be released from the newly reinvigorated company, and the first new tooling of a Beaufighter for a long time. It arrives in one of their chunky end-opening boxes (think 1:48 Tornado), and inside are a lot of sprues in pale grey styrene, nineteen in all, with a trio of small clear sprues, the decal sheet and new-style colour instruction booklet with the obligatory safety warning sheet tucked inside. There are 188 parts in total, and when you pull the wing sprue out of the box you realise that the Beau was quite a large aircraft. Surface detail of the aircraft's skin is restrained, with lots of fine engraved panel lines, and even what appears to be an attempt at replicating the unevenness of the skin of the aircraft around the fuselage sides and on the nose cones, some of which you won't use. You get a full length floor inside the fuselage with plenty of interior details, which also includes the wing roots as seen from the inside, the equipment in the back and the observer's seat base. Construction begins with the cockpit, which is placed at the front (shocker!) of the internal floor, with a portion of the forward spar at the rear, bracing structure and a three sided console in front, onto which the instrument panel is fixed, and a decal can be added if you don't fancy painting it yourself. Rudder pedals are moulded-in, and a control column drops into a slot in the centre of the floor, with the comfortable-looking seat (with moulded-in belts) against the spar. The rear spar forms the box, and this is full height, with moulded-in doors into the rear compartment, and two ammo drums behind feeding the belly cannons. Behind that is the base for the observer's chair, which also has lap belts moulded-in, another bulkhead behind that, which can either contain a pair of doors in a smooth bulkhead, or a framework that has a central equipment rack in it. Behind that door is an empty space with the tail wheel well at the end, which is moulded into the floor as a curved box, and can accept the tail wheel in either deployed or stowed positions by using a different strut on the same wheel. The lower access hatch is fixed to the hole in the floor, and the fuselage can then be closed around it, after de-flashing some holes along the top seam. The nose cone is separate, and you have a choice of the large thimble-nosed one with radar, or the original sleek nose that gives the Beau such a nice line. The canopy is fitted next, and has an apron in front of the windscreen moulded-in to make fitting it easier, and a separate top panel for the pilot's exit. The gun-sight is also clear, and needs partially painting before installation, which would look more realistic if you add some clear green to the edges of the glazing to simulate thickness. The rear crew member's dome is able to be fitted open or closed, and a machine gun mount can be put in place in either position, with the closed dome having a small hole in the rear to admit the gun barrel. Now for the wings. The lower wing is a full width piece, and includes a short length of the lower fuselage to give it a good fit. Four small holes must be opened up in this area before proceeding, after which the gear bays are constructed in the lower half of the "power egg" from individual panels and a front bulkhead. Behind them the flap bay is completed by the addition of an upstand part that spans the gap between lower and upper skins. This is of course repeated in both sides, and the upper wings are glued in place once this step is completed, then the flush landing light, the supercharger intakes and wingtip lights can be added along with the inner and outer sections of the flaps, which can be posed open or closed, by adjusting the leading edge tabs that are present. The ailerons are each two parts and these fit on pins and can be left loose or posed how you see fit. Next up are the engines, and these are depicted fully with two banks of pistons and plenty of nice detail. The exhaust collector ring and the forward cooling vanes are all there, although a little bit of wiring will be needed to complete the look. The exhaust section section the three cowling sections all build up around the front ring, and then you have a choice of adding open or closed cooling flaps, by using one or other of the sets provided glued to the aft of the cowling. This is done twice of course, and the engines aren't handed, so the exhausts are on the same side, as are the hedgehog flame hiders that trail along the nacelles, which have glare shields over them to protect the pilot's night vision. A choice of large or small intakes are fitted to the top of the cowlings, and the tiny rear tip of the nacelle under the wing finishes off that section. The tail of the Beau is noticeably cranked upward with quite a large dihedral on this variant, and here you have a choice of two styles, one of which has a straight line fit of the elevators, the other is stepped, requiring a complete set of parts for each. The trim actuators are shared parts, and the elevators are separate and can be posed to taste if you wish. The tail fin isn't moulded into the fuselage, but fits into a slot on the top of the elevator assembly, with a choice of a fin with a fillet or without, using the same rudder parts, and again allowing you to pose the rudder deflected if you wish. The filleted part needs a hole cutting in the top of the fuselage to stabilise the fillet, so make careful measurements to find the flashed over slot if you didn't open it up previously. The main landing gear can be left off totally if you are posing your model in flight, with the single piece gear bay doors dropped into the aperture in the bottom of the nacelles. If you are building the landing gear down, you will need to construct the H-shaped legs in stages, sandwiching the two-part wheels between the halves as you go, and this completed assembly is attached to a small section of the spar for ease of attachment. This is glued into the front of the bay, with another set of retraction jacks fitted diagonally from the bay rear into the lower section of the leg, and the door closing mechanism running along the lip of the bays. The single door panel is split lengthways and added half to each side of the bay, and the prop is fixed to the front, either with or without a spinner, which has a backplate for completeness. Then it's a case of fitting a pitot under the wing, aerial on the fuselage, and the main build is complete. All that remains is to build up the torpedo from two halves plus a large H-tail, fit it to two C-shaped attachment points, and it's finished. Markings There are two options on the decal sheet, which span two pages each due to the generous sizing of the profiles. As you might guess, one option has the fin fillet, and the other doesn't. The fillet-less machine does have a fetching set of D-Day stripes however, which always prove popular, but you'll be masking and painting them yourself, as they aren't provided as decals, which shouldn't be seen as a negative in my experience, as getting large decals to settle on curved surfaces can be a pain at times. S/N. NE429 "P6-S" No.489 (NZ) Squadron, RAF Langham, England, July 1944 S/N. RD467 "QM.J" No.254 Squadron, RAF North Coates, England May 1945 Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion Whilst the other manufacturer's offering in this scale is well liked, it's good to have a choice, and this is a very detailed modern tooling that includes plenty of parts, and will be readily available due to Revell's large distribution network. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  3. I wasn't going to post this one up until I started it properly, but here goes anyway. At the moment, I'm just doing the spray painting bits while the weather allows. The build will be later in the year, but with my spray booth in the garage I have to do the spraying while it's warm and dry enough. So first job is to decide on the colour. The instructions are for the car in beige, but I wanted to try another of the factory colours. Unfortunately, the choice of colours from Trabant demonstrate the wow factor you would expect from the Eastern Bloc - as well as beige the choice is Invalid Carriage Blue, Dirty Off White, Pale Grey, Baby Sick, and two shades of green, one of which resembles the glowing stick of uranium from the Simpson's opening and one of which resembles dying grass. I decided to go with the grey as I think it might suit the car. The kit is Revell's Trabant Universal. On first glance, and from what I've read, it looks a nicely detailed kit with lots of parts... and also lots of steps to the instructions (46!). The body looks pretty nice apart from some sink marks front and rear on each side so those have been filled, and the mould lines are hidden behind what will be a trim line from front to rear with only small lines on the front of the car. The door lines are also quite shallow so I scribed them too. There's quite a lot of bits which are body colour, which means quite a bit of spraying with this one. I'll only put up the chassis and the body for the spraying, the rest would just be repetitive. The pic below shows it very early on, and I've put the roof panel, bonnet and boot in place to give an idea of how it will look. This pic is after the scribing and the first attempt at filling the sink marks, the ones at the front needing quite a bit of filling. The spoon in the foreground shows what I hope to be the final colour - this one is Revell's USAF Light Grey, which being a matt paint will need a couple of goes with the clear where there are decals. As usual, the primer showed that this wasn't the best filling job, so all the sink marks needed filling and sanding again before it got another coat of primer. And here we are with the body finally complete and wearing it's coat of primer. Meanwhile, the chassis paint was running in parallel to the body. This one is mostly in matt black and I managed to get it painted relatively easily. However, the rear wheel arches should have the finish in body colour, so I had to break out the foil and the masking tape in preparation for colour coating them. Two weeks later, after adding the colour coat (directly over the black), I added the clear coat and then removed the masking. I have to say that I am quite pleased with the result. There is some detailing required to parts of this (principally the handbrake cable), but that will come when I reach that stage of the build. And then my paint woes hit. First of all, that can of spray paint which was fine for the chassis wheel arches decided to lose pressure two weeks later. And the other can I had ran out very quickly only doing a few larger parts and a mist coat and a half on the body before running out. So this is where it is now: So I'm out of spray paint and have a very unfinished car. Fortunately, I've just got myself a new, but cheap, airbrush which I was only planning on using at first on areas where it wouldn't be that visible. Having managed to extract about 20ml from the low pressure can I guess I will have to try with that. Would I be right in thinking that the paint from a spray can will go straight through the airbrush ok without thinning? And has anyone any experience of spraying with Revell acrylic paints from the tub if I need to go down that route? Would I be better off just getting another spray can if so required?
  4. Revell is to release in November 2016 a new tool 1/32nd Boeing F/A-18E Super Hornet kit - ref.04994 What's wrong with the Trumpeter's 1/32nd Super Hornet? Followed or not in 2017-2018 by two seats 1/32nd Boeing F/A-18F Super Hornet and EA-18G Growler? Source: http://www.plastik-modellbau.org/blog/revell-neuheiten-2016/2016/ V.P.
  5. Morning all So I have ended up with 3 kits on the go at once, not planned this way just happened. I started with the Airfix ME262 for which I also have the Eduard etch set, started out promisingly but the more I have done the less enjoyable this one has become for several reasons, firstly the kit fit has not been up to the recent new tool standards, wings halves not mating correctly, wing to body and engine to wing fit... well I'm still working on that. As you can see from the pictures this one has taken more filler so far than the last 3 kits put together! IMGA0209 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0211 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0210 by neil Connor, on Flickr Because the Airfix kit was starting to get under my skin I started the Eduard Spitfire mk9, this is a Profipack so no after market needed but I picked up some Techmod decals for Israeli and Egyptian aircraft, this is a fantastic kit, extremely detailed and overly complicated. IMGA0207 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0212 by neil Connor, on Flickr This one although going together nicely, does not lend itself for a quick build so I started a third kit. This being Revell P47 Thunderbolt 2013 rebox from 1990's moulds from what I can work out, So far I have spent maybe 60 minutes on this one so far and have been surprised how good the fit and detail is for such an old kit. Better than the new tool ME262? we'll see as I get further into it. IMGA0208 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0213 by neil Connor, on Flickr The only disappointment so far is the box art shows the aircraft with bombs and centre line fuel tank but the kit has 10 rocket and P38 fuel tanks on the wings, I may have to find replacements.
  6. Hi guys, To celebrate/commemorate the last day of sixth form for me (yesterday) I've decided to embark on a little project. Unfortunately I damaged the seals on my airbrush after trying to thin down Alclad with cellulose thinners; a new airbrush and official Alclad airbrush cleaner will need to be sought at the start of next week hopefully......Anyway... Running alongside my 1:48 Canberra pr.9 build (found here) I'm going to build an aircraft in a particular scheme that I have been wanting to do for quite a while. The kit is the new(ish?)-tool Revell A320 1:144 in an Ethiad scheme: I won't immediately reveal which aircraft I'm doing, I shall reveal bits and pieces as I go along (what a tease I am! ) but I shall start by giving a considerable hint; Red. Any guesses? That's all for now, at least until the airbrush is sorted. Kind regards, Sam
  7. I thought I would start her with my first post, a rather challenging conversion of Revell's 1:24 London Bus into the Knight Bus from the Harry Potter film the Prisoner of Azkaban. following some fairly in-depth research I decided that a conversion using two kits should be possible, along the way some conversion would also be necessary to change the bus from an AEC Routmaster RML to the older AEC Regent III on which the bus in the film is based ( the book illustrations do show a Triple-Decker Routmaster, but I wanted this to be a copy of the bus seen in the film Work will include shortening the body by removing the 'central bay' to make a standard wheelbase Routemaster Modifying the top deck especially the front and rear sections to accept the new top floor Fitting out the interior with chandelier and berths for sleeping wizards Thanks for watching, any help and advice gratefully received Jim
  8. Hi guys, this one has been creeping up on me. But as promised I will build the 1/32 Revell P-39D. As you all may know, but this is a re-box op the special hobby kit. I will build it out of the box, but maybee I will get some goodies for it. I am thinking of buildig it as a Russian version. I will need to get a decalset for it or some maskes. The foto's of the box and content will follow later. cheers,
  9. Buying something from Amazon I needed something to take me up to the magic twenty squids and free postage, so I had put this little fellow in my "save for later" basket some time ago for just such a day. I usually top up with Vallejo paints but this time I needed a fiver so this little chap for six squids was just the job. Quick little throwaway bit of fun... But when I opened it. Well it isn't a bad little model. So I started thinking about "doing something" with it. Anyhoo, more on the MF model and what I decided to "do" with it later, I decided I wanted something to display it on. Probably my favourite Star Wars moment is when the Millennium Falcon swoops down on Darth Vader closing in on Luke in the trench and takes out his wingman causing DV to abort and Han shouts "Yahoo, you're in the clear kid, let's blow this thing and go home!" So a bit of Death Star scenery is required. A Laser turret. Nothing commercially available that I know of (apart from the Bandai kits and I don't think there is anything suitable?) Anyway I'll just scratchbuild one... First off find some scale plans. The best I could find was Adam Savage's "Tested" website (yes, the "Mythbusters" guy) Build a Studio Scale Death Star Laser Tower It is more concerned with a CAD/CAM model but the drawing gave me a starting point. So, plasticard and tools to hand off we go... So that is where I'm at. You can see I have started on the "Laser Guns" using plastic tubing or different diameters but I need to "greeblie" them up a bit. The thing that looks like the buffer plate from a steam locomotive is to locate the lasers guns behind the curved plate (making them moveable was decreed as a step too far!) What started as a little basket filler has turned into a project. I think the turret is probably too big but the Death Star was a "BIG" thing so who really knows. I was amused to find out that the sets that depict the interior of the Millennium Falcon would not have fitted inside the full 1:1 model that was built at Elstree for filming the scenes in "A New Hope" and that full model was used for the scenes on Tatooine and on the Death Star without being moved, they rebuilt the sets around the model! If anyone is interested in any of the techniques I have used please ask. Peace out.
  10. Hi, Now with the F4U-4 is all but finished, its time to continue with my 'build two at any give time - if you want a chance in reducing the constantly growing stash' policy. This time I selected to tackle my first bomber / 2 engine plane. This build will be of a Revell A-26B I picked on eBay in a bag - literally in a bag. Some of the clear parts may indicate I have parts from two models. The bag did contain two copies of Instructions. I've put the bag in an old D-link modem box Decal sheet looks too yellow for comfort I may be looking for a decal sheet - any recommendation are welcomed. When I washed the parts and moved them to a box more easily accommodated on the bench - I've heard a small part falling - and the carpet monster got it Loosing a part even before I started - that's a first one.
  11. So a quick build of this little one for a Sci Fi GB elsewhere as my original kit entry (Bandai pocket Falcon) is still somewhere on a very slow boat from the far east The kit is Revell's 1/160 Slave One and is one of their Easy Kits (Snap fit to you and me). I cut off most of those lugs and glued it. After primer from a can, it's all brush painted with Revell Acrylics. Was my first time using Maskol for the chipping effect and I think it turned out ok. Flory Models wash and some random paint effects here and there. Revell_Slave_One_2 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Slave_One_1 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Slave_One_3 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Some decal spares to brighten up Boba's instrument panel Revell_Slave_One_4 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr The wings rotate which I managed not to mess up. Revell_Slave_One_6 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr A good level of detail for the price and while it's no Bandai, I had plenty of fun with it. Will try to scratch up a landing pad for it soon. Revell_Slave_One_9 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Thanks for looking! Dermot
  12. Allllllrighty then! My recent conversion from the dark side (Armour), and ensuing Mojo restoration and reinvigoration has resulted in my actually finishing something, albeit two builds belonging to my teenage son, who incidentally still has not noticed that my S.O.D. has nudged his to one side, but that is a horse of a different colour, the upshot of all this is that like a convert to anything, not smoking, not drinking, bdsm, I find myself compelled to "spread the good news"! So for you good people here tonight I will begin the hopefully short WIP of my first build for ME since the early 90`s when I had a go at a Hasegawa Blackhawk and a Hind! The "Leg Iron" has gone to France for a couple of weeks during the interminable summer break that teachers get, so I reasoned that a brief trip to the local model shop (Waterlooville model shop, although it`s actually in Portsmouth) would not be spotted, the juices were bubbling and I needed a fix and I found two kits that got me revving, I read a lot, and two of my recent reads will resonate with a lot of people on here, " Carrier Pilot" by norman Hanson and "On and off the flight deck" by Hank Adlam, so when I saw this I thought this is a go! Now I`m not going to detail all the arguments regarding the accuracy of this kit, either way there are pluses and minuses but at less than seven quid I`m happy! I had a search on the site for builds of this kit, there is one currently going on although putting a link in and so forth is currently beyond me, I`ll not insult your intelligence by pretending I've not had a cider or two, but it` s saturday night! Now, the main issues as far as I could make out were broad chord prop and for want of a better name "drop tanks", on the other build the broad chord prop was brought in later than the serial number of the kits serial number, so I need a later serial number, So we`ll go with the FAA Corsair decals from Eaglecals, nice late serial number there! (can you guess the next build?) "Drop tanks"? bin em.............. Along with the decals I got a "Big Ed" set of seat belts/harnesses for allsorts, so I read that Corsair IV`s were fitted with Q type harnesses , that's dealt with, Ok, it`s sideways but it`s a canopy mask set, but it was well cheap! Job jobbed! So I just thought I would have a quick look at the various bits and bobs............................. All washed and gleaming, whats not to like? Yeah these fell off, but they're ok! And then BOOM! the thing built it`s self..........................almost The wings went together without issue, there was a bit of fettling with the coolers, but seriously, five minutes............ a swipe of filler and these will be good to go.................. engine and cockpit were quick and easy, nice detail and in the booth quicker than you could say knife! And finally for today a shot of stynylrez before painting tomorrow................. So that's me done for today, minimum aftermarket and half the kit built in an afternoon............just like being 12 again! Granto
  13. Revell A320 with decals from @RICHW for Monarch and is the aircraft my wife and I flew back on from Venice. Thanks for looking. Steve
  14. Another couple of 1/32 scale Spitfires. Firstly the old 1/32 Hasegawa MkVb in the "Nightfighter" boxing. Quite an old kit but builds up nicely. Finished in the markings of 111sqn W3848 JU-H based at Debden. Sprayed overall black using salt as mask for the chipped paint. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Next is Revell's newish Mk.IX finished as MJ250 UF-Q of 601Sqn based in Italy in 1944. Nice kit but has some odd omissions and errors, no seat armour for example. Revell show this aircraft as having clipped wings, which I have done, but others seem to think it had standard wings. Clipped wings were relatively unusual on Mk.IXs. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14.
  15. Corsairfoxfouruncle

    RED DEVIL DEUCE

    Hello all this is my 1/48th Revellogram F-102 Deuce. When i came back to modeling in 2014 i searched high and low for one of these. It became my proverbial “unicorn” model. I was so happy when Revell repopped these last year. I had bought the decals two years prior in anticipation of finding a kit. The Decals represent a Deuce from the 431st Fighter Squadron SAC Zaragoza Spain in 1961. Without further talk i present to you my deuce. A photo with my N.A. F-100D an original Monogram release. That makes 3 of 6 Centuries that i need for my collection. I already have an F-104 in my collection. I just need a VooDoo, Thud, & Dart to finish of the series. Here’s a link to the build if you're curious. Please feel free to Question, comment, or joke ? Dennis
  16. RMP2

    1/48 Jaguar IM

    Hi guys. Seeing as my Hunter bits still arent here for the 60s NATO GB I may as well make a start with this and get my hand back in. Its Revells 1/48 Jaguar GR3, same as the Airfix et all offering but with decent decals. This one seems to be of the lesser warped variety which is nice, but I have plenty of filler on stand-by never the less.... Extras include a resin seat, the relevant decals (second sheet stashed to cover the serial number error), a Sea Eagle missile that was kindly donated for the build, resin nose and a resin Harpoon missile that might be a little Whifi for these camo colours/period, but think Ill be building it anyway for display next to the model for myself outside of the whole GB just to be sure Im good with rules etc. Pretty sure I had some weighted wheels too, they may or may not turn up. The evidence/victims: And the very, very familiar state of affairs: Apologies for the rough photos, my phone is pants and my camera has done a runner it seems. I will get that sorted for future posts. There. Committed! Good luck all! Rob
  17. Corsairfoxfouruncle

    Its a Deuce !

    Hello Everybody ... Im going to jump in with this. I will be doing it in the markings of the 431st F.I.S. Out of Zaragoza Spain in 1961. It will look like this in the end. When I came back to modeling a few years ago I looked hi and lo for a Duece. It became my proverbial unicorn. I was a very happy person when Revell re-popped these and I quickly grabbed one. To be honest I have been a bit nervous to start it though. I waited long enough to start this and cant think of a better place than a group build setting to do it. I will post the obligatory sprue shots later today when i can get into my office. Hopefully i wont let myself or you folks down with this build. Dennis
  18. Shar2

    Type VIIC/41 U-Boat. 1:350

    Type VIIC/41 U-Boat Revell 1:350 Type VIIC/41 was a slightly modified version of the successful VIIC and had basically the same engine layout and power. Armament was the same with 5 torpedo tubes (4 at the bow and one at the stern). The biggest difference was that these boats had a stronger pressure hull giving them more depth to evade attack under (operational 120m and crush depth at 250m against VIIC's 100/200). They also had lighter machinery to compensate for the added steel in the hull making them actually slightly lighter than the VIIC. All the type VIIC/41 boats from U-1271 onwards had the mine fittings deleted. The Model The model comes in the new, glossy, but otherwise standard Revell end opening box with a picture of a submarine at sea on the front. Inside there is one large sprue, one small sprue and the two hull halves and deck, all in a medium grey styrene. The moulding on all parts is nicely done, with the vent holes and other detail on the hulls looking really nice. Being a submarine, construction is pretty simple as can be seen by the number of sprues. The build starts with the two hull halves being joined together followed by the deck. The foreplanes are then attached, as are the prop shafts, with integrally moulded fairing and A frame supports, then the propellers themselves. The sternplanes are then fitted, along with the rudders and rudder frame. The tower is assembled from two halves, the command deck, 20mm gun deck and the 37mm gun deck. The foreward periscope is then fitted, followed by the two piece 37mm cannon, and the two twin 20mm cannon are fitted. The main attack periscope is the attached, along with the railings around the 20mm gun deck and the 37mm bandstand. The tower is then glued to the deck, as are the fore and aft mounted guard rails and the snorkel in the raised position. The model is then affixed to the display stand. Decals The single sheet of decals provides markings for U998 and U1004, which also includes the ensign, (without swastika). The decals are nicely produced win good register and slightly matt. The paint schemes though, shows them with the yellow stripe on the tower depicting that they were being used in the training squadron. Leave this off if you want to depict her as an operational boat. Conclusion This is a very nice model of an late U-Boat from a time when Germany was improving all their U-Boat forces. The diminutive size of the completed model means it won’t take up much space in the cabinet. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  19. Good evening everyone, I thought it might be worth shifting my attempt at the RAF Centenary Groupbuild to the WIP area, seeing as I never had chance of meeting the deadline! (The build can be found by clicking here) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So, To bring everyone up to speed: -I plan to build a representation of the Panavia Tornado ZA326 in its iconic raspberry ripple colours. I'll be using the 1:32 Tornado GR1 kit from Revell and an abundance of plasticard, to model her with a plethora of panels open (nose, side electronics bays, ground equipment connection points, the spine, and maybe even an open engine bay!) Here are a few select images which visually describe the process so far: (Note that the paintwork on bits and bobs has been tidied up since these images were taken) What's the plan of action going forward, then? -Nose electronics bay -Nose hinge and detailing -Cockpit wiring -Fuselage panels and internal gubbins -Fuselage rescribing (+rivets, should they be required) -Engine bay (there might be a bit of a surprise in that regard, stay tuned!) -Wings -Other (landing gear, etc) It will be a slow (I've got a summer placement in a research lab at my university) but hopefully steady project. As for references that I'll be using: The good General's own Tornado build The Tornado SIG The ZA326 group's Flickr Stay tuned for more! Best wishes, Sam
  20. Hello All, Attached are some pictures of the start of my Revell Halifax build. I expect this one to go as long as the B-17, about 15 months. I usually build multiple kits at a time so that extends projects but 15 months is actual time...I'm kind of slow when it comes to larger projects. I am using Eduards Big Ed set. A first for me. I'm not much into photo-etch so we'll see how it goes. Also....the Revell boxes.....well how can I put this without being vulgar......are HORRIBLE. Well in any case the kit has been washed of mold release and I started on the cockpit area. Well here we go mates on with the pics. All the Best! Don The kit seat has been highly modified. The photo-etched for the seat was not what I thought would be a good representation so I went for this method. The floor board is photo-etched which looks fantastic. The cockpit bulkhead at the start of detailing. Rolling the metal was easy if you have a nice set of round end tweezers. There's suppose to be a metal shelving bracket around the two rectangular boxes...it did not fit. This is not uncommon with photo-etched parts in my experience. I'll make an alternative or of bits of plastic.
  21. This is my take on the Revell 1/50 scale Viking Ship. I know next to nothing about Norse Long Ships, but the model looks a lot to me like the 9th Century Gokstad ship displayed at the Viking Ship Museum in Oslo, Norway. The kit matches that graceful design pretty closely, right down to the hand made look of the clinker-constructed hull planks. After the quick hull assembly was a lot of less-than-exciting parts clean up: 64 shields, 32 oars, a two-part mast and numerous other assorted bits... but this really is a nicely designed kit. The dragon head, for example, is apparently inspired by a real one from the 5th Century – pretty cool: Plus, Revell’s molded-in wood grain detail is phenomenal! I gave the “wood” parts a Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow acrylic base coat, and the only color is the Tamiya XF-63 German Grey for the “iron” bits – shield bosses, figurehead mounts, and mast hardware. I let the paint cure for a couple of days, and then did a streaky wash with Grumbacher Raw Umber artist's oil to bring out the wood grain. It was very straightforward project, and with nearly everything the same wood color things went pretty fast. Except for the rolled facial tissue sail, everything on the model was right out of the box – a great relaxation build!
  22. dadofthree

    Revell 747 questions

    I am currently planning/collecting models/parts for building 3 Revell 747s. The first is a 747-400 in Thai Air livery, second a 747-600 conversion in Gulf Air Livery and thirdly a 747-8i in an as yet undecided scheme. Here's my first question, should I fill the panel lines as they are quite obviously too deep?
  23. Hi, Here are a few photos of my latest model, Revell's Lancaster B III in 1/72 scale dressed in the livery of a 50 Squadron machine which took part in such raids as Peenemunde, Hamburg and Berlin during mid 1943. It took a while to build, approx 5 months but went together beautifully and a thoroughly recommended model. I hope you like it, Russ
  24. Hi everyone this is my first post on here (I accidentally posted this on the wrong discussion earlier but haven't found a way to remove the post) and I thought I'd share my first build in years. Revells 1/48 Tornado Gr4. It's thankfully gone together with no issues, I was assuming it was going to be a headache but so far so good! Also if anyone has any tips on highlighting panel lines or weathering in general I'm all ears as I'm useless at it. Also can anyone recommend a good clear matt? Ive tried Humbrol and Mr Colour and they even after being stirred thoroughly were coming out gloss. Any info would be appreciated.
  25. my last kit , enjoy : voila voila
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