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  1. ZA613 was the 152nd Tornado delivered to the RAF, entering service in August 1982. It was one of the initial batch to serve with 27 squadron at Marham and remained with the unit until it relinquished Tornados in 1993. The aircraft was later converted to a GR4, and survives to this day at RAF Honington as a ground instructional airframe. This model depicts the Tornado in its heyday of the mid 1980s, as flown from Marham by 27 squadron. WIP here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235096658-old-school-tornado/
  2. For this build, i'm going to make a Iranian RF-4E. I actually bought the kit some time ago because I thought I'd make it as depicted on the box, but I did'nt like the look af the decals from the set, and the a friend of mine, said I could do it in an iranian scheme, so why not The kit it self looks good, but since I never had build a revell phantom before, I'm listening to good tips on avoiding mistakes with the kit I'm so looking forward to get cracking with this one, I do like the look of the iranian colors on this aircraft First some pictures The box. I do like the "tigermeet" look. Maybe I'll make one some day All the sprues, which are in some sort of dark green? The original decals. (I'll still be using the stencils from this one) The plane which I'll be building. On this picture the underside is black, but I've been told that it is not the case, and therefore I'm painting it Light Grey - FS 36622 The decals for making it iranian (or Spanish or american ) And the vast amount of aftermarket part
  3. As the title says I'll be building a Revell Phantom FGR2 kit; to be finished as a camouflaged aircraft from 23 Squadron - precise identity yet to be chosen. To contrast with my ADV grey builds this one will have the original tail (ie no RWR fairing nor ILS fins). The basic components: Hopefully will get a start on her next week but have three F-16s to put finishing touches to first. Mike
  4. The latest model I recently finished is the iconic Ford Mustang from 1964. In my opinion it looks cool and it’s the real embodiment of youth, freedom and the American life style of the sixties. I chose to build the convertible with the roof down. I just could dream of driving the car on the highway number one from San Francisco to San Diego enjoying the Pacific sea breeze. The introduction of the Mustang created a new class of automobile known as the pony car. The Mustang’s styling, with its long hood and short deck, proved wildly popular. It was initially introduced on April 17, 1964, as a hardtop and convertible with the fastback version put on sale in August 1964.Since it was introduced four months before the normal start of the 1965 production year the earliest Mustangs are widely referred to as the 1964½ model. I built the Mustang 1964 1/2 convertible from a ten year old Revell kit which perhaps wasn't their top notch.The details were scarce inside the car and the for instance the handles etc. were only vaguely molded on the side walls. The decals were very good, though. The fit of the parts was generally ok and there were no special problems apart from the windscreen and the side windows which are in one piece. Attaching the part tightly in the window frames was a pain in the neck. I painted the bodywork with Tamiya metallic blue spray, TS-19 and the light blue interior wiyh Humbrol 89. The seats I painted with Revell 04 white and the roof and the sun shields with Humbrol 41 Ivory white.
  5. Yeah, you're not about to have another Nordic groupbuild without me barging in on it. The way things are looking at the moment this may not even be my entry for it, but rather my first entry. Anyway, some time back I noticed the ModellTrans Modellbau/Silesian Models sold a 1/72 conversion kit for Revell's T-55 to turn it into a Finnish ItPsv 90 SPAAG, aka T-55 Marksman. As the less formal name implies the real world vehicles were themselves conversions created by the Finns buying a few second hand T-55AM from the Poles and slapping on Marksman AAA turrets. That seemed like an amusing enough subject and so here we are, even though my previous experience with Silesian models (turning an Academy Stryker into an M1128 MGS) had been a somewhat mixed bag. The "Before" picture. With their usual generosity Silesian models have included not only the resin parts in the kits, but also a few bits of the moulds they were cast in. On the other hand you get no decals. I thought I'd source those form Revell's 1/72 T-72 since that shouldn't cost all that much more than a third party decal sheet and maybe I'd feel like building an Iraqi tank some day. Looking around though that one's apparently been OOP for some time judging by its non-existence in stock just about everywhere. Turning to eBay I was then lucky enough to spot someone selling just the decal sheet, minus the Iraqi part, for a good deal less than the entire kit, so that turned out pretty close to ideal. A British seller, so if any of you sold such a sheet a while back and the phrase "Your Local Hypnotherapist" rings a bell then you're about to find out what fate you consigned that sheet to when you sent it over the top. Now luckily the more visible sides of the resin parts are in a much better shape than the underside of the turret, but still, there's been a number of blobs and whatnot to slice off. Having hopefully cleaned up the main turret chunk itself I decided to do something else for a while, like make a place to put it as it starts accumulating fragile bits. Likely unsurprisingly this means heading over to the Revell side of things, where it all starts out unremarkable enough on the whole. We do run into the first conversion job though, slicing off the extra fuel drums. Wheels on, the rest dry fitted. Quite a bit of tower on this one. I also glued together the T-55 turret just because. I guess it'll be handy if I want a small paint mule some day.
  6. After the Jag, I still feel the need for 80’s RAF metal, and what represents that era better than a Norfolk land shark? This is the older Revell kit, with a rather cavernous box containing more sprues than I can recall for any other model. There seems to be enough plastic for two Tornados in here! I’m delighted to see I’ll be able to model it with everything sticking out and hanging down! Makes a nice change after my DIY efforts on the Jaguar. Loving the upper spoilers. Although I assume this is where I’ll be informed no Tornado ever sat on Marham’s flight line with them sticking up!? I might just claim artistic licence, as the more protruding bits the better in my opinion. The kit was my usual eBay special, so came without decals or instructions. I’ll print the instructions off Scalemates or somewhere, and I have these beauties for decals. Look at all that green and grey camo, proper fast jet colour! For now I’m intending to do the 27 Sqn one from Marham. Im going to need some aftermarket cockpit bits …
  7. Hi all, When I saw this GB come around, well, I had to jump in. Here's the kit.. Revell F-16C_box by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr I'm no expert on Block numbers, so if Revell say it's a Block 52, I'm not going to argue with them! Revell F-16C_instructions by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Plan is to add some conformal fuel tanks from a Hasegawa kit so that I can build a Greek version (fingers crossed). This will be my fourth 1/72 Viper - top 2 are Revell, the Sufa is from Kinetic. The Revell kit is great so looking forward to this one Family Album - Vipers by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Good luck with your builds! Cheers, Dermot
  8. Those who have followed my recent builds will know of my affinity with the 747. Whilst my current 747-436 tribute build is stalled (I'm still waiting for replacement decals), I thought I would turn my attention to some more modern 747 kits. Hopefully they will be far less hassle and go together much more easily than the venerable Revell 747-400! The only modern version of the 747 is the -800 variant. Both Revell and Zvezda have 1/144 versions of this aircraft, but which is best? There's only one way to find out - build them both! To start, here are the two boxes: First impressions - the packaging on the Revell box is superior, as are the decals. The quality of the sprues looks pretty comparable - time will tell as the build progresses... More on that later! Regarding the schemes, I am going to venture into the world of custom decals and build these two as 'what ifs'. Both models will be finished in a 'Utopia' or 'World Image' livery, used by British Airways at the turn of the century and then dropped in favour of the current 'Union Flag' scheme. It was a bit marmite(!), but I quite liked it and thought it would be an interesting side project to design something completely different and previously unseen on a 747. One model will be finished in the 'Youm al-Suq' design, representing Saudi Arabia. This scheme was only ever used on two aircraft - an Embraer 145 (G-EMBJ) and a 737 (G-GBTA). Images of these two aircraft can be seen on the artist's website: https://www.shadiaalem.com/british-airways-utopia-project I purchased some decals designed for the 737 and set to work on photoshop, amending the design to fit a 747. Here's the original decal: Then after many, many hours of work, I created something 747 sized: The other airframe will receive a variation of the 'Colum' livery used on my tribute build. This design was quite well received and there were several different versions of this design in use. I am basing my decal on G-BGDR, a 737-236. I bought these decals earlier in the week and have a few hours of work ahead of me... Here's how they look, compared with the 747: Obviously they need enlarging and I will have to make a few modifications and additions along the way! I hope to turn my attention to these two models soon - I need a break from the endless round of filling/sanding/priming which seems to be happening with all my other projects at the moment! Just gluing plastic together will make a pleasant change...
  9. I have always admired the look and lines on German Uboats and thought how cool it would be to have one on display. I purchased a several of the Revell 1:72 kits and put them aside. I decided to research a little learn a little about the Uboat before construction of my kits. Sooo, I bought a few books on the the Uboats and have been reading some of the history which they were involved in as well as other sub books too. Das boot 04/21, Blind mans bluff 05/21, Twenty million tons under the sea 05/21, Iron coffins 05/21, The luck of the draw 05/21, Operation Drumbeat 06/21, Torpedo junction 06/21, Gunther Prien and the U-47 (reading now). So after dragging my feet for a bit I started the kit last Thursday on July 1st.
  10. Revell is to release in November 2016 a new tool 1/32nd Boeing F/A-18E Super Hornet kit - ref.04994 What's wrong with the Trumpeter's 1/32nd Super Hornet? Followed or not in 2017-2018 by two seats 1/32nd Boeing F/A-18F Super Hornet and EA-18G Growler? Source: http://www.plastik-modellbau.org/blog/revell-neuheiten-2016/2016/ V.P.
  11. Guess I'd better declare mine here - seems that there's quite a few of these about so I'll leave out the box contents, but just to be clear this is the kit in question. Because I tend to build at a pace similar to a snail on spice this will be done straight out of the box. And as my first car build on returning to the hobby was the 2006 version, I absolutely have to build it in black with gold stripes to resemble it's cousin from four years ago (looking at the picture now I realise how much neater my more recent builds are under the camera!): But first, a small confession. Although I haven't started building anything yet, I have got some paint on the body as I tend to leave a couple of weeks between coats and could see that holding me up. It's just had the colour coat (pics at some stage over the weekend) so still decalling and clear coats to go. Hope that is ok as there is well under 25% of work done to date, but it's not a completely fresh build from 10th July.
  12. On display in the Revell stand at the Nurnberg Toy Fair 2020. Revell is to release a new tool 1/48th Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird kit in 2021 (or later as Revell is not famous for the respect of such deadlines). Source: http://www.greenmats.club/forums/topic/6758-revell-1-sr-71-засветился-в-нюрнберге/ Source: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2805402012855804&set=pb.100001580974587.-2207520000..&type=3&theater V.P.
  13. Work Station (39085) Revell Revell have a growing line of tools that they offer to the modelling masses via their extensive dealer network, allowing modellers to pick up tools on a whim from a shop that might otherwise not stock more esoteric brands. The workstation is quite substantial. The overall dimensions are 500mm x 400mm and its made out of 3mm thick plastic. The central area is designed for a A4 cutting matt (not supplied) There are areas at each side for parts/tools etc and at the rear a curved slot for standing your instructions up. There are a small selection of holes for standing tool/brushed up at each side towards the rear. As well as the main areas there are two shelf areas at the rear designed for the blue block which come with the workstation. These 16 blocks are 50mm square and are designed to take Revell Jars, the square Revell Acrylic paints, and Revell Contacta glue bottles. They could also be used for a variety of other bottles/glues etc. They can be placed however the modeller wants in these areas. Conclusion This is a good size workstation which offers something to the modeller who does not have a dedicated space. Its not the cheapest workstation out there and I think for the price Revell could have included one of thier A4 cutting mats as well. Recommended if you need a moveable workstation of this type. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  14. BAe Hawk T.2 (03852) 1:32 Revell Originally designed as a replacement to the Gnat advanced trainer by Hawker Siddeley, the Hawk first flew in 1974, and started life as a private venture, much like a number of other widely known and loved aircraft. It was designed from the beginning for the training arena with two seats, but the ability to carry offensive armament was also important both for weapons training, and for the improvement of export sales to developing nations that couldn't perhaps justify or afford a single-roled aircraft. It entered service with the RAF in 1976, only two years after its maiden flight, and has remained in service with many updates ever since. A number of variants have been developed since then, mostly for export, including single-seat light-weight fighter Mark 200, and the highly adapted T-45 Goshawk that is used by the US Navy for carrier training. The T1A was a modified version of the original Hawk that can carry weapons such as a gun-pod on the centreline, and a pair of Sidewinder Air-to-Air missiles. This type is also used by the Red Arrows with some minor modifications to carry a smoke pod instead of the gun pod. The T.2 is currently now in service in small numbers with the RAF, with a glass cockpit and improved Adour 915 engine, based on the specification of the Mk.120 and 127 used by the South Africans and Australians respectively. The T.1 is intended to leave service in 2030, but in the meantime, it still serves alongside the more modern T.2. The Kit This is a not a rebox of the earlier T.1 and Red Arrows boxing that we reviewed a mind-boggling 10 years ago, but is instead a rebox of the 1:32 Kinetic plastic, which if you’ve not seen that kit before (and I haven’t), it’s not immediately obvious. The kit arrives in one of Revell’s deeper end-opening boxes, which seems to be made of thicker cardboard to hopefully avoid the dreaded collapse in the stash. Inside are five sprues in a grey styrene, a sprue of clear parts, a fret of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, decal sheet, instruction booklet and one of those annoying safety sheets. The first thing that strikes you as you peruse the sprues is that the tail section of the fuselage is heavily riveted, a feature that was missed off from the earlier kits native Revell. The shape of the tail “hump” looks better too, although whether it will meet the approval of the purists, but a quick Google makes me think it looks OK. The inclusion of PE parts is also novel from Revell, and very welcome as the usual alternative is decals, which are two-dimensional at best. Construction begins with the instrument panels and their coamings, which are well-detailed and have decals for the various screens and buttons, which should settle down over the raised details nicely with some strong decal solution, and has a PE HUD frame into which the two clear parts fit, and a lens part drops into the coaming. The rear seater’s panel is without the HUD, and has one of the MFD screens in a black cowling where the HUD would be. The canopy is made next, which is a fairly unusual step, and this version has the det-cord canopy breakers moulded-in, but as they are raised, you won’t be able to flood them with white acrylic paint like you could the old 1:48 Airfix kit. You do get a blast screen for between the pilots, and a pair of styrene rear-view mirrors for the front of the canopy. The crew seats are identical, and made up from two halves into which the seat pad is inserted, and the headbox top with the drogue-pack moulded-in slips into the top. Then the PE belts are shown being folded and installed over a few steps, including the short groin-belt that has the push-release buckle at the top end. The two ejection seats are added to the cockpit tub after removing a small area of raised detail in the starboard rear-seater’s side console, then the HOTAS duo and some rudder pedals are added to both cockpits and finally the rear bulkhead is glued behind the rear seat using a slot and tab to align it well. A full set of intakes are included on the sprues, replicating the Y-shaped trunking seen on the real thing, stopped-up at the rear by a representation of the front fan and bullet of the Adour engine. The two trunks are joined together at the rear, and each side has half of the starter exhaust moulded into the top, which will exit through the hole on the spine later on. At the rear the exhaust trunk is fitted with a rear face of the engine and has a very slender lip, thanks to some careful moulding. These two assemblies go into the fuselage on large sturdy pegs to ensure a secure fit and minimise any movement of the parts. Before the fuselage can be closed up, the single-part nose gear bay should be painted up and inserted, and this too has some decent detail moulded-in, although little will be seen once the leg is in there and the doors have been applied. Once the fuselage halves are together and the seams dealt with, an insert is slotted in under the rear with the strakes moulded into it, and the outer halves of the intakes can be joined to the inner sections that are moulded into the trunking. The spine behind the cockpit that has separate “bunny ears” for the ram-air intakes that feed the crew air-conditioning unit is also made up, but installed much later in the build to give you adequate chance to lose it under the clutter on your desk. With the addition of a few PE aerials under the rear of the fuselage, attention diverts to the wings. The lower wing is full-span as you’d expect for a low-wing monoplane, and has a box around the gear bay apertures against which you glue the detail inserts, which removes a lot of the opportunities to get it wrong. A central insert goes over both inner bay halves, and the upper wings are glued in place, with the bay roof detail moulded into their inner surface. The completed wings are then offered up to the lower fuselage and glued in place, adding some nav-lights on the intakes, and more strakes on the fuselage beside the tail. The elevators have separate swash-plates that fit into recesses, with the tab going through them into the socket in the fuselage, then you get the option of an open or closed air-brake, being careful to check that it doesn’t prevent the aircraft from sitting square to the ground once finished. A skin attaches to the blank space over the exhaust, and some blade antennae are slotted into the fin, next to the avionics box that projects from the leading edge. The main landing gear legs are a single part, with the retraction jack added as they are inserted into the bays along with their two captive doors, and the three-part wheels, which have circumferential tread on the two-part tyres. A little link is fixed between the bottom door and the leg before they’re inserted into the bay, with the last inner bay door fitted along the centreline. The nose gear leg has a split yoke with the three-part tyre trapped between them, then it is installed with its three gear bay doors and landing light attached to the starboard door. The flaps are separate, and can be posed retracted or deployed by using the different actuator fairings, and for the extended flaps, adding the additional spacer parts that pop out to fill the gap. Another small blade antenna is glued into a recess in the trailing edge fairing on the wing underside, and a centreline tank fits into two pre-prepared holes between the main gear bays under the wing. With the model righted and standing on its own wheels, the front spine insert with the bunny-ears gets fitted, and behind it two PE grilles are inserted into recesses in the fuselage, which has a realistic centre support and twin recesses behind it to give it a 3D look. The wing is outfitted with twin fences each side, and the windscreen with canopy closed or open glues in over the cockpit. There are a ton of sensors, aerials and blade antennae around the fuselage and nose, which includes a few clear ligts, nose pitot and AoA sensors on the sides, plus a crew-step to get the crew in and out. A set of Sidewinders are included for the wingtip pylons, with the option of leaving them off and covering the mating surface with an aerodynamic cap. If you are going to use “live” Sidewinders, there are fins moulded in along the seamline, plus separate perpendicular fins to add, and an exhaust insert in the rear. For a training round the instructions tell you to remove all the fins after you make it, and the painting guide gives you painting schemes for both options. Markings The decals are printed in Italy by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. As mentioned earlier, the seatbelts and instrument panels are also supplied as decals, although the belts are identical to each other, and will of course look a little flat once applied unless you apply them to a very thin substrate to give them some thickness. Why bother when there are some nice PE belts on the brass sheet? There are two schemes on the sheet, both in black, which is the standard scheme, although one has a special tail scheme. From the box you can build one of the following: No.4 Sqn., RAF Valley, May 2016 No.25 Sqn., RAF Valley, Mar 2020 The colours are named in a key at the front of the instruction booklet, which is handy if you don't use or have access to Revell paints, although the dreaded paint-mix requirement for the limited Revell paint range can be a little frustrating at times. The Sidewinders are mainly Barley Grey, which is a mix of two Revell colours, and is never an ideal solution, especially when so many paint manufacturers have that colour readily available from the tin. An odd faunish-orange colour is used on the lights on the intake cowling lights, which is a mixture of clear orange and clear blue. Strange. Check your references if there’s any doubt. Conclusion It’s nice to see the modern Advanced Jet Trainer (AJT) Hawk T.2 in big scale for all you big scale adherents, and the availability in a Revell box will help it reach a wider market than perhaps the Kinetic plastic would otherwise see. One workmanlike and one fancy scheme gives you a choice, but with only 28 airframes in service at time of writing, and gloss black being the standard scheme, the fancy bits are all that they have to differentiate between them. Finally, be prepared to do a little polishing of your black paint job, as that always gives a black surface more realism to my mind. Check out Ultimate’s Polishing System if you haven’t got some already. Highly recommended. Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations, but there are many shops stocking their products where you can pick up the kits either in the flesh or online. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  15. Hello Here is my second contribution for this group build with a 1/72 Revell NH-90 Caïman for the Marine Nationale. This is the most recent helicopter which entered naval service and according to Wikipedia her missions are : naval combat missions: anti-surface, anti-submarine warfare, heavy-handed actions at sea (including maritime counter-terrorism) support missions: rescue at sea, assistance to vessels in distress, medical evacuation, naval logistics, transport of commandos. They are in front line service whithin 31F and 33F squadrons and operate from Frigates, PAN Charles de Gaulle and Mistral class vessels. Firts here is the box of this kit produced in 2011 and the Reskit add-on First pictures in progress should comme fast. To be continued... Patrick
  16. I was reminded by @stevej60 that I had a old Matchbox/Revell Char B.1 Bis & FT.17 kit in my stash. I picked it up many years ago out of a bargain bucket & it has been hidden away at the back of my stash ever since. Well now seems like the best time to build it before it gets forgotten again! So as not too overlap with Steve's build of the same kit & because it's impossible for me to build anything OOB I'm going to convert both of them into self propelled gun versions. The FT 75 BS was a modified version of the FT 17 replacing the turret with a fixed superstructure fitted with a short barreled 75mm fortress gun. Production begun in late 1918 with only 11 finished before the war ended, a further 29 were built in 1919 & they went on to serve in North Africa. There last use was against American forces during Operation Torch in 1942. The 10.5 cm leFH18/3 (Sf) auf Geschützwagen B-2(f) was a German modification of captured Char B1 tanks, the 75mm gun in the hull was removed & the turret was replaced with an new open topped superstructure fitted with as the name suggests a 10.5cm leFH18 field howitzer. 16 were modified between 1941-1942, they were at first used in France & then later transferred to Italy were their fate is unknown. Here is the obligatory box art photo, complete with the bargain price I payed for it It comes with a total of three sprues, two of them are for the tanks, the third is for a basic diorama (which I wont be using) & lastly there are two sets of rubber/vinyl tracks. The parts needed for the conversions will be 3D printed, they are just small boxes with barrels sticking out, so I dont expect it will be much work to design & print
  17. With Ragnar just around the corner, and F-4 STGB underway I'd best get moving on this and see if I can get it shuffled along in reasonable time. This will be a no frills build, pretty much out of the box to get it cleared out of the stash with just a couple scratch adjustments. Kit decals for E.C. 2/11 out of Toul AB will be used.
  18. Evening All My track record for finishing models in recent years and especially in group builds hasn't been good, in fact I've done very little modelling for various reasons for the last couple of years. So now being cooped up for the next few weeks theres a small chance I might actually get some modelling done, and hopefully finish one. To assist in achieving this goal I've looked at my modelling habits and picked all the traits that are most likely to hinder progress in this aim and adopted all of them. 1) Instead of finishing off one of the many part completed projects I'm starting a new build 2) To prevent enthusiasm levels getting too high I've picked a subject area that I'm not particularly interested 3) As I've got a rather large stash I thought it best to purchase another model for the group build 4) To prevent AMS setting in too soon I didn't bother researching the kit and proceeded to buy the wrong mark 5) This wasn't too much of an issue as I got it at a bargain price due to a crushed box 6) Once I actually realised I'd got the wrong mark some research was inevitable, most changes needed should be easy to scratch, but I did need some different wheels 7) Looking for the different wheels inevitably lead to finding other aftermarket essentials costing 4 times the price of the half price kit I'd bought. 8 ) To justify the cost of all the extras more research was required to ensure this was all correctly applied as well 9) To ensure reduced available building time I put off starting the process above until after the group build start date 10) Amazingly after completing the above there's still a fair bit of the Group build time available (the Mustang group build followed a similar trajectory and got as far as 9) by the mid march end date) 11) To ensure I'm not lonely in isolation I've picked an identical subject with 2 stalled builds already in this group build @Whirly and @Hockeyboy76 (Just sayin, don't be offended, I rarely finish GB's anyway!) So, what am I building? My main interest is in RAF and RN subjects so the obvious group builds would have been the current Lancaster or In the Navy GB's. The chosen subject has a tenuous link to the RAF through the ETPS, but is firmly in the subject matter for this GB, being built and operated in or by Sweden. I already had the decals in the stash which I'd bought for some of the other subjects (unsurprisingly still unbuilt) So I then found a Revell Gripen D with a damaged box going for half price after the sale had been flagged up by someone here in the Bargains section, it found it's way into my basket and shortly thereafter into my model room. The box was crushed and torn But the contents were in excellent shape The clear sprue was lurking inside the box when the photo was taken in case you're looking for it. Shortly after getting the kit and digging out the decals it became obvious to me that I'd bought a D and the decal subject was a B What to do? The Italeri kit is a B, but judging by photo's of the kit on line it didn't quite have the finess of the Revell kit. The differences between B and D are relatively minor, so couold possibly ignored? No, not a chance, once seen they'd bug me. Most of them looked relatively straightforward to deal with but the early style wheels would be more difficult. I could beg a spare set from a Britmodeller that had upgraded an Italeri kit, or I could go aftermarket. No brainer really, blow the money you've saved on buying the wrong kit cheap on a nice set of aftermarket wheels And whilst you're shopping on the internet, you may as well save some more money on postage by spending a load on some more aftermarket, the ubiquitous Eduard set for the kit Which includes parts to detail the kit exhaust nozzle, so you don't really need an Aires resin exhaust, do you? And whilst looking at the kit parts the pitots look rather overscale and vulnerable so theyre best replaced with something in scale and relatively expensive (and probalby sitl vulnerable! So that's the intro, I was going to get into describing the modifications required to backdate the D to a B and a couple of others that seem to be unique to this airframe, but let's not rush things, I can do that tomorrow instead of doing some actual modelling...
  19. Time to mark my spot for this GB which I have been looking forward to for a long time, I really enjoyed the last one where I built an F4U-7 Corsair and thought that I would continue the Aeronautique Navale theme by building an SB2C-5 Helldiver. I am not 100% certain which unit i shall build it from as although I do have an interest in the Indochina conflict I also have one in the aircraft used by France in her North African colonies but as the airframes are the same and it is pretty much just a case of which markings to use I can make that decision later in the build. The kit I shall be using for my build is the venerable Pro-Modeller 1/48 kit as later released by Revell which I was lucky to pick up the last Milton Keynes model show (remember them!) for good price as these go for silly money on a certain internet auction site, here are the ubiquitous box and contents shots; And a look at the kit supplied decals and etched brass; As you can see the original decal sheet does come with the option of an aircraft used in Indochina but I am unsure as to how they will behave as they are quite old, however I have timed this very well as Model Art Decals have just released a superb sheet covering French SB2C's in Indochina, North Africa and France and it looks to be of top quality; Very nice indeed, and I have to say that Jean-Pierre's customer service is second to none and I will definitely be ordering directly from him again. I have a Bf 109 to finish before I can get started on this one but I hope that it will not be too long after the start date of the GB because I have wanted one of these in my collection for a while now. Good luck to all of you with your builds and all comments and criticisms on mine are gratefully received. Craig.
  20. U Boat Type VIIC Das Boot Collectors Edition 1:144 Revell (05675) The Type VII submarine was based on earlier German designs. This type would go onto become the most used German submarines of WWII with over 700 being built. As with anything there would be many modifications along the way. The type started as the V11A with an initial 10 being built. The type VIIC would become the main boat of the German Navy with 568 being built between 1940 and 1945. With a range of 8500 nautical miles. The boats had 4 forward, and one stern tube in general (there were a few exceptions) with 14 torpedoes being carried. For surface running and battery charging a pair of supercharged 6 cylinder 4 stroke diesel engines were used which gave a top speed of 17.7 knots. A maximum submerged speed of 7.6 knots was possible with a new fully charged battery. The submarines generally carried a crew of 44 to 52 men in what can best be described as "cramped" conditions. Most people will be familiar with the Type VIIC from the original "Das Boot" film where U-96 was this type. The film by Wolfgang Petersen was nominated for two Academy awards and was based on the book by Lothar-Günther Buchheim who was a war correspondent in Germany, and the book was based on his experiences on a patrol aboard U-96. The film constructed a full size replica of the submarines from US held plans. The original was released to critical acclaim in 1981 in Germany where it took over $5 million in its first two weeks. As the film was partially financed by German TV, and far more footage was shot than needed a mini-series was created which was shown in some countries as three 100 minute episodes, and in some as six 50 minute episodes. These were originally in German with subtitles though a dubbed English version was created. Having watched both the dubbed version fell short of the original German IMHO. Later box sets were released with more footage and then in 2010 Petersen produced a directors cut of the original film. The film is perhaps the best out there which looks at the true conditions faced in the War in the Atlantic from the German side, and the film has been mentioned in the list of the greatest war films of all time. In 2010 Empire film magazine listed the film at number 25 in "The 100 Best Films Of World Cinema". The Kit This boxing is a re-release of Revell's new tooling from 2006 re-released to mark the 40th Anniversary of the film. As well as the kit there is a copy of the original movie poster in the box, the Revell Glue, paint and brush combo rounds tings off. Even in 1/144 this model is still 46 cms long so its not small, there are a respectable 87 parts including the stand. Detail is a mixture of raised and engraved details, the raised areas on the hull will not be lost due to how its been laid out. Construction starts with the included base, and swiftly moves onto the main hull. This is two parts and is stiffened inside by tow internal bulkheads. When the hull is together the three main deck sections can go on. Work then moves to the stern with the fairings for the propeller shafts going on to the hull, followed by the shafts and then their supports. The propeller them selves can then be fitted with the stern planes fitted behind them. The last items to go on are the twin rudders. Switching ends to the bow the bow planes are then added along with the boats anchor. Things then move to the upper works and the conning tower. The search and attack periscopes are built and installed to the conning tower deck, the lower conning tower parts can then be built up around the deck This is followed by the upperparts which form the bridge. The compass and main communications tube are fitted in along with a DF antenna. The upper bridge then fits to the main assembly. Next up the 37mm Flak gun for the rear decking on the conning tower is built up and added on along with the railings which surround it. The ships flag staff is added at the rear of this area. The main deck gun is also built up. This can be added to main deck followed by conning tower. To finish off two deck fairings are added alongside the deck gun followed by deck railings, deck fittings and the cable deflector on the bow. Markings There are decals fU96 as seen in the film with the Swordfish emblem on the conning tower along with marking for the stand. Conclusion It's good to see this kit re-issued as it makes up into an impressive model even in 1/144, the addition here with markings from the film is a nice touch. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  21. I'm going to join this interesting GB with an ancient Revell Nieuport 28. It's tiny! I picked this kit up recently at the 'Antiques Warehouse' I mentioned during the last Frog GB and even though that stash is sorely depleted (all the Heller sailing ships have gone) this little beauty was still there (along with a Frog Bleriot XI). The camouflage and markings are pretty striking and this particular aircraft was flown by Lt. Douglas Campbell of the A.E.F. Simple construction and the transfers look to be in good condition. This kit is from the 1960's Very light grey, almost translucent, plastic with a little flash on one of the cabane struts. I think I'll enjoy this one
  22. Thanks to Hannants "Future Releases" here's a first - and incomplete ! - glimpse into the Revell 2021 programme. Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/futurereleases/ Don't forget the 1/48th SR-71 project, see thread: link UPDATE 13/11/2020 UPDATE 14/11/2020 V.P.
  23. Jaguar E-Type Roadster (07687) 1:24 Revell The E-Type is perhaps Jaguar’s best-known type, and was one of their most successful too. Based on, but very different from their D-Type racer, it introduced a number of modern features that we take for granted today, such as a monocoque-type body that removed the weight and bulk of a ladder-chassis, adding disc brakes, a powerful engine, and a modern steering rack that gave the driver excellent feedback on which to judge their performance. It was beloved by purchasers, and even competitors, one of whom rated it as the most beautiful car ever made. It retained its popularity through the years and there are still many examples on the road, and even a replica that costs many hundreds of thousands more than the original - go figure. It was in production from 1961 to ’75, known as the XK-E in the USA, and was available first overseas, with Roadster and coupé versions, a choice of engines, fit and finish, and the occasional special edition throughout the Series, which extended from 1 to 3 with over 72,000 made before it was replaced by the “Marmite” XJ-S that polarised Jag lovers, although time seems to have softened the opinions of those that disliked it initially, as did the improvements over the years before it too was replaced by the soap-bar shaped XK8. I think everyone's had this conversation either internally, or with friends so far, but WHAT is 1990's Sean Bean doing in a Jag with 1960s Emma Peel? And Lassie???? Whatever the motivation, Sean's looking righteously very pleased with himself, but really should be paying more attention to the road , and ensuring he doesn't knock lassie into the well. The Kit This is a partial re-rool of a brand-new kit from Revell adapted to make the Roadster version, which will appeal to many an already aching wallet. It arrives in an end-opening box, and inside are two sprues in light grey styrene, one in a mid-brown, two in chrome, two more sprues and two bodyshell parts in an approximation of British Racing Green, two clear sprues, four flexible black “rubber” tyres, a decal sheet, instruction booklet and a helpful safety sheet to recycle. It’s a colourful model even before you get your paintbrush out, and while some of you folks might not like the chrome out of the box, we’re not all perfectionists, and it can be removed pretty easily using oven cleaner. Better yet, the novice modeller can build the kit without paint, and still have most things a decent colour once complete, so it’s not just a gimmick. It’s a thoroughly modern tooling, but there are a few ejection marks that you might want to cover up if you’re putting the effort in under the bonnet for example. The new bodyshell is just the rear section, as the immense bonnet is the same for both types, but of course it’s all in green this time, rather than red. There are also a few tiny sink-marks here and there too, with a pair of incredibly shallow ones on the bonnet where the hinge-point mounts are, so get to work on those before you start building in earnest so that they don’t bite you later. The deployed fabric hood also has a few very shallow ejector-pin marks too, which should be easy to hide, as the fold texture extends to the inner surface too. Construction begins with the engine block, which comes as two halves with the transmission moulded in, and has the sump and rocker cover added, then the ancillaries, fan-belt, and the exhaust manifold with six-into-two downpipes. At the rear is a differential, drive-shafts and suspension-link, bookended front & rear by a pair of formers. The suspension units either side of the differential are covered by the lower swing-arms, then it’s time for the twin exhausts and their mufflers to be made up to be added under the chassis once the engine has been popped in between the front rails, so that the manifold and pipes can be mated. The extensive framework under the bonnet is next, getting painted along the way, then being put to the side while the firewall and front brakes/steering are inserted into the chassis. A pair of drop-links slip in between the bottom of the brake assembly, gluing into the top of the bonnet framework, then it’s time to fill the bonnet/hood with stuff! The triple-carbs are fed by the airbox, with a choice of left- and right-hand steering boxes, battery, radiator and a bunch of other little ancillaries that festoon the area. Moving back indoors, you can choose the right- or left-hand drive dash, with decals appropriate for each, plus pedal-box and steering-wheel fitted underneath in your choice of positions. The centre console is made up with a shifter, and a handed hand-brake, so make sure you drill out the correct hole in the underside before you proceed with the gluing. The two seat areas within the floor are painted a two-tone brown, and are matched with a self-coloured bulkhead piece at the rear of the floor, and a couple of little chrome handles for the ventilation are installed low down in the front of the cab with some decal vents that they operate. The dash slides in and locates on some pegs and ledges in the floor, then the two door cards are detailed with handles and window-winders, both of which are chromed. The two seats are each single parts and have nicely moulded cushion details included, although they look strange to modern eyes with the lack of head rests and seat belts. The passenger has a grab-rail placed across the corner between the dash and the short A-pillar, which differs between the left- and right-hand drive options. Even a Jag won’t go anywhere on its own without wheels, and these are next to be made up. The flexible tyres have a cruciform sprue arrangement in the centre that must be cut out with a sharp blade, then in the front the chromed hub and its moulded-in spokes are inserted, which should look good with a dark wash to bring out those spokes. There’s a separate knock-off hammer-on locking nut as is appropriate for the era, then at the rear is a simple hub with a hole in the centre and a cap that will glue onto the axle, leaving the wheel able to rotate if you’re frugal with the glue. Revell even supply a decal of the car’s green instruction manual, which you can cut out and leave on one of the seats if you like. The rear bodyshell is installed onto the chassis first, joined by the chromed windscreen surround and the glazing panel, adding the chromed rear-view mirror, door handles and sill trim, then more chrome parts with clear inserts make up the rear light clusters, joined by the rear bumper halves and a central clear reversing light, then a pair of chrome bumper overriders, and a choice of EU or US number plate frame. The E-Type is well-known for its gigantic bonnet, which takes up a large proportion of the front end, and makes pulling out of some junctions a whole heap of fun. The underpinnings are made up first, with the lights inserted into the front bulkhead, which is then fitted into a frame that holds the bonnet to shape once it is glued in place in the huge panel. The curved lower is then put in place underneath, and as this is a separate part on the real thing, you can leave the seamline there as it's mostly occluded by the bumpers anyway, unless your references show otherwise. The choice of colour for the light “tunnel” of body colour, silver or black isn’t mentioned on this variant, so while you have your references out you might want to check that too. With the paint choice decided, the chrome bezels and clear lenses are glued in, and the indicators join them with chrome bases and clear lenses. The front bumpers are also fitted as halves, then joined together by adding the central section with moulded-in overriders that hide the join between the three parts. There is another choice of EU or US numberplate frames, which glue to the lower lip of the oval intake under the bumpers. The hood can be depicted raised or lowered by choosing different parts, and both options are fairly simple to make. The deployed hood is a single moulding with a separate glazing panel that is inserted into the rear from the inside, then the two side windows are fitted into the spaces from the outside if you plan on portraying it with the windows wound up. For the top-down version, it’s just a single part that slots onto the back of the cockpit via the same three posts as the hood-up version, and although it doesn’t show it, you could always put the side windows in if you wish. More chrome is added in the shape of wing mirrors with clear lenses, an aerial that is relocated to the wing for the drop-top, and three small windscreen wiper blades. Markings Many of the supplied decals are used up in the cockpit, providing a comprehensive set of dials and instruments for the interior, a number within the engine bay, and smaller details around the vehicle, including meshes, grilles and stencils. In general, someone has taken a lot of time and effort to create a set of decals that really drills down into the detail, from filler cap logos to shock absorber badges, alternator shell cut-out patterns and battery filler caps – remember the non-sealed batteries that needed topping up with deionised water from time to time? The rest of the decals are number plates from various countries, plus a set of generic E-Type plates for showroom examples. A few “driving abroad” country stickers round out the sheet if you feel the urge to apply one. There is one colour option shown on the instructions, which is British Racing Green, but you’re at liberty to paint it any colour you like. Decals are by Zanetti, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion This is another modern kit of the wind-in-your-hair version of this classic car, and has plenty of detail moulded-in for the detail hound to finesse and add to. The decal sheet is excellent, and the consensus seems to be that Revell moulded initially the Roadster front windscreen angle and curve on the coupé that is correct for this version. Highly recommended. Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations, but there are many shops stocking their products where you can pick up the kits either in the flesh or online. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  24. Right. Here we go then. First WIP for Quack. I thought I'd have a go at a WIP thread, never having done one before. The kit is this one....the Revell / Hasegawa 1/48 Spey Phantom FGR2. I fell in love with these brutes growing up near Leuchars, and loved to watch and listen as they thundered out on training or QRA sorties. OK in fairness they were largely FG1s from 892 Sqh FAA, or 43 / 111 Squadrons when the airframes were gifted to the RAF, buy I can't find a 1/48 FG1 so this'll have to do for now. With any luck ZM will get around to issuing Spey Phantoms in 1/48 scale.....(!?) 02 by Niall Robertson, on Flickr Always a sucker for "little extras" I have already invested in a Big Ed set and Aires ejection seats. 04 by Niall Robertson, on Flickr The Big Ed set is fairly pricey but you do seem to get a lot of stuff for your cash, and I don't do many builds in a year so my overall annual expenditure on "toys" is reasonable (errrr...I think it's reasonable don't you Dear??) The plan is to finish the build as XV474 using the Xtradecal set. 06 by Niall Robertson, on Flickr The idea behind doing this thread is to stretch myself a bit further and gain more experience / consolidate my skills. I'd really appreciate it if folk would feel free to comment, especially to give tips on construction from their own experience, and to tell me of any howlers they observe so I can try to correct glaring errors and cock-ups! Thanks in advance. Finally - a warning.......don't expect a quick build here. I'm a notoriously slow builder and this may take some months........It'll NOT all be over by Christmas! OK, on we go. The Eduard cockpit details look a bit scary, as it involves a fair bit of plastic mangling , especially the Nav's console, but I think the result should be worth a bit of risk taking, don't you? The detailing on the side consoles has been sanded off, never to return. 08 by Niall Robertson, on Flickr A few brass bits added. 08 by Niall Robertson, on Flickr Bits ready for a first dose of primer... 12 by Niall Robertson, on Flickr The Aires seats look absolutely amazing - so detailed. I hope I'll be able to do them justice when it comes to painting. 14 by Niall Robertson, on Flickr First dose of primer lets me see how things are shaping up. Early days. Beginning to relax into this build and enjoy it. 16 by Niall Robertson, on Flickr Thanks for tuning in and please do offer construction tips. Next instalment hopefully before Christmas!! Q Sorry Dear.....Whats's that about the credit card bill?
  25. 4th finish of 2021 is Revells SU25 Frogfoot, this is a rebox of the Art Model kit. I have been building this as part of a ground attack WIP. Unfortunately Revells instructions have a few mistakes with the parts numbering and colours, the kits fit is poor along the fuselage joins, the seat was replaced with Metallic Details KU36 resin seat as the kits was very poor, looking back I should have gone for the Zveda kit as this appears to be more accurate. Built OOB less the replacement seat as an Afghan based aircraft circa 1983 using Tamiya and Mr Colour acrylics. The kit decals went on fairly well but some have silvered. Now this one is done I can continue with the Beaufort and BR693. As usual all comments are welcome.
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