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  1. Evening all, For now this is just a place holder as I have a GB to finish before starting on this. As Mike already did an excellent review of this kit, I’ll save you for the sprue pics. As I have so far only managed to complete a grand total of two kits in my recent modeller career (I have started quite a lot though ), both being aircraft, for this my first car kit I’m definitely going to ask for your kind assistance as we along! On opening the box I noticed that the windscreen had some scratches/imperfections on it, likely originating from the production of the part. After logging a complaint online a the Revell homepage, 5 days later I received a FOC replacement part. So a big to Revell for their excellent customer service. My first couple of question to you guys is actually concerning the paint. Color wise I’m considering Porsche factory colors lime green or Gulf blue, leaning more towards the Gulf blue at the moment. Found both here at Gravity Colors homepage, so my current questions are concerning the Gravity Colors themself. 1. From reading other posts, I understand that Gravity paints are popular around here, so what is everyones experience using these paints please? Are they easy to apply and are they suitable for less experienced airbrush users (like myself)? 2. What I really like about Gravity Colors is their huge selection of factory colors. Are there any other known model paint manufactures around with such a huge selection of OEM colors? 3. Though I usually prefer water-based paints due to lack of smell and easiness of cleaning, I understand that Gravity Colors are lacquer based paint. How bad are they on odor and is it relatively easy to clean airbrush, tools, etc post use? 4. Gravity (obviously) recommend their own primer (https://gravity-colors.com/primers/101-gc-303-light-surface-primer/). Any experience with this primer please? Any suitable alternatives please? I’m a real jerk with a spray (rattle) can, so any alternatives would have to be for airbrush use please? 5. Also for the gloss clear coat Gravity is recommending their own product (https://gravity-colors.com/clear-coats/102-gc-306-gloss-clear-box-set/). This product is a 3 component product, consisting of gloss clear, activator and additive thinner which will have to be mixed to the right ratio before use. Again, does anyone have any experience on this product and/or can you recommend any alternatives please? Even here I would prefer airbrush over spray can. Any and all advise would be greatly appreciated Cheers, Johnny b
  2. Whenever I participate in a GB I usually jump way overboard and rarely finish anything. To remain true to my inner character, I decided to leap into this one as well, even though that Tomcat really should be finished instead. Or the Tonka. Or the Gannet,, or all the other ones that are stored... But one must look forward and not backwards, so here goes! I have one new Revell Shack, in a lovely livery: Strangely enough it comes with some new style instructions that are both readable and easy to understand: That was a welcome change from team Revell! Just get rid of the end opening boxes and all is well. Key features for me to choose Revell over Airfix is , well. it's an MR3 with nose gear! It looks almost modern (well...) and the red wing tip tanks is really dashing. But the major thing is this: Rivets! And lots of them too. To please @trickyrich I tried to get hold of as much AM stuff as I could, but I had to stop here That big etched fret will be a challenge for sure. Sooo...can I start now?
  3. Hi all I built this a while ago now, but as my hobby room is out of bounds for the foreseeable I thought I’d give it an airing. This was the original boxing from 2013. Regards J.A.
  4. This is the new Revell tooling of the A321NEO. For their A320NEO and A321NEO ,Revell decided to create a complete new tooling and not only pack new engines in an old boxing. This was a good idea,because their older A320/321 kits had a few errors and became also more and more worn out. The new kit is a real treat Everything fits snuggly,the parts layout is very well done. It took me 2 afternoons to build the kit,no filling was needed,except the windows,so the painting could begin almost immediately. This was also a straight forward task. Fuselage all black,then gloss coated with future. Wings the usual greys and aluminium for the leading edges. I actually planned to have clear windows,until I found out that Air New Zealands A321NEOs have a different windows/door layout... Until then I thought Airbus only has one layout except the number of emergency exits.Well...you always learn something new... The decals are from PAS decals and are nicely printed and opaque even on such a dark surface,something I had worries about in the beginning. The windows are again from Authentic Airliners and all details come from the great Revell decal provided with the kit. A very relaxing and quick build. Cheers Alex
  5. Hi all you Britmodellers! Just finished this huge model by Revell. This kit was a new release late last year and I haven't seen many built so far... It's a total monster and very hard to photograph due to its massive size. The basic Revell kit was enhanced with Eduard interior and exterior and some scratchbuilt improvements in the cockpit and forward wheel well. The kit decals were used and were by far the best quality aspect of the kit, which was a bit of a struggle to put together. The landing gear was modified to simulate a landing configuration on final approach to the carrier. I tried very hard to match the wear and tear, used look and weathering of the original aircraft using a variety of post-paint techniques. Some of it is only apparent close-up. The nose end was the most weathered, in contrast with the glossy, clean finish of the special paint scheme. The underside has some characteristic 'Hornet' discolouration and streaks which I tried to replicate as well: The drop tank on the real aircraft was an absolute state, which I also tried to reproduce: The aircraft is mounted on an old broken lampstand, with a 5mm carbon fibre rod drilled into the underside. It was originally built for the Hornet STGB but I missed the deadline due to a combination of freezing weather and punishing work schedule messing up my modelling plans for the first quarter of the year. I spent a lot of time on the cockpit and getting the details and crew figures right: Used a lot of knobs and switches from Anyz (Tom Anyz does excellent cockpit accessories, find them at anyz.io ) Crew figures came from Academy and were modified to fit and posed correctly. Helmet decorations were hand-painted and took a bunch of go's! Can't see an awful lot of it with the canopy on but I'm really happy with the overall effort. Anyway - bit of a long post but it's been a long build! First finished model of 2022 and was worth the build. If you don't mind putting in a bit of work this is a very good value kit - massive plastic, excellent and huge decal sheet and plenty to occupy the modeller. Not as nice as the Academy Legacy Hornet and probably not as good as the Trumpeter kits, but half the price so worth it for me. All the best Alan
  6. I'm really not sure what made me buy this one to be honest. I'm not a huge VW van fan so I can only presume that I had an idea it would be fun to take onh the challenge of a multi-part body. Then I got it, saw that it's going to be a bear to spray and had second thoughts. But, all challenges must be faced and it's time to face this one. First thing to note is that I am just following the box art van, so it is being done in the Jagermeister green and orange colour scheme. The alternative plain blue scheme would be much easier to paint, but this kit comes with a lot of nice looking decals and it would be a shame to waste them. I got a bit of a start during autumn last year with some Halfords satin black on the underbody, then it was a case of masking off to get the engine bay done in the same Tamiya British Green as the body. Aftr that I gave the dark green a clear coat with Humbrol Gloss Clear Varnish... which went well - I hadn't appreciated quite how sensitive this stuff is to temperature and especially humidity so suffered an attack of blooming on the wheel arches in particular: Fortunately another coat on a better day significantly reduced the bloom and it should be acceptable now, especially as it will be hidden in the engine bay. The other bit of work I tried at the end of last year was filling in the VW badge recess on the front. For that I used the Vallejo white filler which seems to suffer from severe shrinkage, even worse if you try and wet sand it. This was after the second fill, a third fill still didn't sort things out as it continued to shrink back over winter. Following Jeroen's advice I got some Humbrol grey filler which appears to have worked much better, it hasn't had any primer on it yet so that will be the acid test I guess. Fast forwarding to this year and I finally got the main body parts off the sprue so thought I'd have a rough build to see how it looks. I will definitely need to drill out the holes in the roof and/or scrape paint of the pegs, but overall impressions are that this may well go together better than initially feared. This is far and away the worst angle (which could be improved very easily with some masking tape holding things together better) so I'm cautiously optimistic. So that's the introduction. I have a feeling this one is going to be a bit of a long haul, but the good weather at the weekend meant I got some important early bits primed so it felt like a bit of momentum was coming back into this, although obviously I will have a certain brown sports car to finish first
  7. Whilst the Scottish National Scale Model Show we're just back from was bad use of our time in a business sense, I can find a positive slant on it if I consider that we paid £200 to find out that the public seemed to quite like my little motorised aeroplane and helicopter. The moving parts seemed to catch peoples' eyes from some distance and they'd come over to look and talk about it. Notwithstanding that I have no real idea where I may go that would allow anyone to see it, I have decided I'd like to pluck the Revell 1/48 Chinook that I bought in Devon with my then fiancee (we've been married 17 years now) out of the stash and build it as one of British Airways Helicopters' BV234s which I still have some childhood memories of. I did ask my dad @skyscooter if he had a favourite out of the fleet, and the response was that G-BISP and G-BISR were the best ones. From an engineering point of view, I interpret that to mean those two worked fairly well more than the rest of them did. I'm consciously avoiding G-BWFC which was a bad time for dad, although by way of showing it's a small world indeed, @Duncan B is friends with the captain who survived the fairly horrific crash's son. What the show at Perth did demonstrate was that the HH-3E and HC-130P models aren't actually very good. They were unreliable over the weekend and needed a fairly bit of impromtu repair. I told various people that I hadn't really thought them through properly and failed to make sufficient effort because I honestly wasn't confident it was all going to work. In the interests of not repeating avoidable mistakes, this time I'm trying to be a bit more methodical and plan out the whirly bits. I've started by attempting a scale drawing of the Chinook HC1 as kitted, from which I will adapt. I have a Cricut Maker which does cut plasticard well, so will cut new fuselage side inserts with the cabin windows using that in due course. Next I studied various photographs of the BV-234 and marked up the differences. There are more detail differences yet to capture, but for now I'm concentrating on big chunks of plastic in need of carving up. Which upon removing the original layer leaves me with something close to a BV 234 civil Chinook. I had some discussion with dad about the differences, and the relocated undercarriage was a new one, despite him knowing the civil machines literally inside out. It seems the MH-47E which first flew in 1991 is pretty much a BV 234 with military gadgets added and indeed it looks very similar in most respects except the cabin windows. The wheels are in a different place on the MH-47E compared to the CH-47A/D too, I discovered just today. As the Chinook has counter rotating and intermeshing rotors, just having two motors won't be good enough for this. They need to be properly geared together, so I've spent a bit of time on RS Components' website choosing mitre gears, spur gears and ball bearings to suit the required purpose. I've ordered a 300rpm geared motor from eBay, but can't confirm the precise dimensions until it arrives. It'll fit inside though - there's plenty space. The transmission will be 3mm diameter steel shafts. I will design a cradle structure to hold the ball bearings in place, and plan to insert the whole thing in through the floor. I won't use most of the Revell interior hence - the BV 234 was completely different inside anyhow and the small windows won't permit much viewing of the interior. I have two options for the drive layout, and will probably go for Option B as it's simpler and cheaper, needing 2 fewer spur gears and 2 fewer ball bearings. It took me until I saw Option A to realise I could just flip round one of the mitre gears and still achieve the correct rotational direction on each rotor mast. Option A Option B I'll sleep on this and will try to order the gears and bearings tomorrow Power will be external again. I have superimposed D cell batteries on the above layout and they're both too tight and will probably squash the undercarriage. Thanks for reading.
  8. F/A-18F Super Hornet (03847) 1:32 Revell The Boeing F/A-18E Super Hornet is the second generation F/A-18 following on the the F/A-18C. The F/A-18E was developed from the original Hornet and while it may look alike its very much a new aircraft which is 25% bigger. The US Navy managed to keep the F/A-18 designation partly to make the US Congress believe it would be a low risk development from the original aircraft (not the first time in US Aviation this has happened). The new aircraft was ordered in 1992 with a first flight in 1995. The aircraft introduced a new era in electronics including an active electronically scanned array (AESA) radar, bigger displays and a helmet mounted sighting system. To date the Super Hornet has replaced the legacy Hornet in all US Navy operations apart from the USN Aerobatic Team The Blue Angels, and even they will have transitioned by 2021. As well as the E model there is the two seat F model, and the latest development the G or "Growler" Electronic Warfare Aircraft. The Kit This is a new tool kit from Revell for 2019, following on from the F/A-18E to which it shares many parts. It arrives in a rather large box which is packed with mainly rather large sprues. The bigger ones being 60 cms across! The first job on the build is to construct the full length intake and exhaust trunking. Fan fronts and exhaust ends are placed in the trunking and its all buttoned up. The underside of this trunking forms the topside of the main wheels wells and they are built up onto the trunking. The lower main fuselage and lower parts of the intakes are then attached, followed by the fuselage sides (which also contain the top of the intakes). The exhaust nozzles can then be placed on the back of the fuselage, a choice between open and closed nozzles is provided. The lower parts of the main wings (left & right) are then attached to the main fuselage. Once these are on the large single part top wing/body part can be attached but only after first putting in the inserts for the topside airbrakes. We can now move onto the cockpit (normally where we start!) The bottom of the cockpit section forms the roof of the front wheel well and the sides for the well are attached first followed by the front bulkhead. The front cockpit & rear tubs can then be placed on the top. To this is added the instrument panels, and the control columns. The rear seat display boxes are also added at this time. The two ejection seats are then built up and added, The seats are a mulitpart affair, however the belts are moulded in, and in this scale the seat would really benefit PE belts. Once the seats are in the front instrument coaming can also be fitted and the cockpit placed into the forward fuselage halves. The nose cone can be fitted and then the forward fuselage joined to the main body. A main top spine part behind the cockpit is then added. The vertical tails with their separate rudders are then made up and added to the main fuselage with a scrap diagram showing the correct angles for these. Once on the arrestor hook parts can be fitted under the main body. We now move to the undercarriage which is quite complex for the Hornet. The front unit and its wheels are built up and fitted to the front bay, the doors and their retraction struts are then fitted. Both sets of main gear get the same treatment. The main gear doors are supplied as one part and must be cut up into their components for the gear down. The outer wings can either be down or folded up as they would be parked. For these the correct hinge assembly needs to be selected. The outer wings can then be built up and added. The main wings are then finished off. While the centre sections are already there the leading edge slats and trailing edge flaps are fitted. The exhaust nozzles are then fitted to the back. Up at the front the glazing is added. For the main canopy the clear parts fit into a normal plastic frame, An integral boarding ladder is provided if wanted in the lowered position. To finish of the tail planes are added along with a few aerials. Revell provide us with a whole host of things to hang under the wings. As well as the pylons a centre line tank, and wing fuel tanks are in the box. Wing tip missile rails are included as well as AIM-9M and AIM-9X missiles for them. AIM-120C missiles are also provided. In term of things which go bang when dropped 2 x GBU-12, 2 x GBU-31-3B, and 2 x GBU-38s are provided. An AN-ASQ-228 ATFLIR sensor pod is also included. Decals The decal sheet from cartograf (so no issues there) provides markings for two aircraft. F/A-18F Bu No.166873 - "Black Knights" VFA-154 - USS Nimitz 2013 F/A-18F A44-201 No.1 Sqn Royal Australian Air Force, RAAF Williamtown 2020 Conclusion This should make up to a good looking if rather large model, highly recommended for those who like to go big! Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  9. Placeholder for my entry, need to finish up my F/A-18A GB first though. Revell rebox of the Hasegawa kit. Got an Eduard masking set on its way, because nobody ain't got time for that, and a set of Brassin wheels because the kit ones look a bit meh to me. Going for the box art OD/NG plane.
  10. Another rendition of this Revell kit for the GB... It's going to be mainly OOB - I think I've picked up some masks (camo and window) somewhere in my stash over the years as well as some resin wheels - which may or may not get used. This has been sat in the stash some time, I think I got it when the Model Zone chain of shops closed down when they were selling off stock, certainly one of the larger kits in my stash (I'm sure I've already filled the hole it's made in it). I'm not sure I like the Mk II tailfins (I prefer the later D shaped ones) or the yellow strips on the wing leading edges but I'm not in the mood for going for any more aftermarket and will just build it as is - the kit does give 2 options and I think with the different nose and possibly the D tails for the GR coastal command version but I'm going for the box art version I think, if I can dig out that camo mask, I've been doing too many grey or black aircraft of late so a bit of sand and spinach camo will be a welcome relief.
  11. I started this one last weekend and have managed 3 short sessions so far on it. I am doing this version from the kit decals. It goes together quite quickly and is nicely detailed. The wing fuselage area needs a little putty. Which was sorted with some PPP. Gear legs going on. Cockpit ready to be buttoned up. I noticed it is a tail sitter at the moment so before the nosecone goes on I will add some weight in the small amount of space available.
  12. Lucky I got this finished before May considering I got sick and didn't feel like modelling for a good week. Anyway in lieu of Top Gun Maverick releasing soon I felt my timing was good to finish this in the tail end of April. This kit was free from my employer (by the way if you're ever in Toronto feel free to drop by Sunward Hobbies and say hello) so this build was to showcase some of our in store products. This kit was okay, not great; there was some flash here and there as well as a noticeable lack of instrument decals & I admittedly sped things up a little near the end but it's done, so you can judge how it turned out. And now for the plug https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DQ89DIgj24
  13. Hi all. I would like to contribute this lovely kit to the MiG-21 fun. Aiming for OOB given the quality of the plastic. I saw a discussion elsewhere about camo vs aluminium version, and to be honest I still haven't decided which to go for... A camo MiG-21 would be visually interesting (sorry about the flash flare) but the "Cold War" look of the Aluminium scheme is tempting, especially as this will allow me to have some fun with weathering. I can ponder for a bit whilst I do the innards, and build up the major components. Icarus
  14. Hello! Continuing my USAF jets saga, here is a USAF classic F-16C Bk30 in an Aggressor scheme. I found this scheme very attractive so I decided to have one in my collection. I chose the Revell kit, which is far from the definitive F-16C at that scale but it has the merit to be theclosest to the real thing... and cheap (the debate on the best F-16 at that scale is still opened!). As I selected for an Alaskan Bandit, I bough the "Solo Turk", no matter about the kit decals, and I was not disappointed by the content of the box. However, I put some AIRES resin add-ons, such as the cockpit, exhaust, wheel wells and the "big mouth" intake, far better than the orignal one. The surgery to adapt the resin piece to the airframe was not straightforward. To avoid more surgery inside the intake, I put a cover. Detailing the wheel wells was another challenge as there is a mistake in the AIRES kit. Thanks God the literature about the aircraft is legion. I drops the flaps, put slightly up the leading edges and riveted slightly the wings and some parts of the fuselage as well. I smoked the canopy slightly but strangely the effect doesn't sho on the pix. Painting the model was not so easy with the wraparound camouflage on a tortuous aircraft like the F-16. I selected the Tamiya "NATO Black", HU-147 for the FS 36628 grey, all slightly lightened. The FS 36622"Off White" is home made. The Two BoB decal sheet 72100 is absolutely superb, the only caveats are to find the little tiny white stencils in the sheet and instructions sometimes vague. I didn't put much weathering on the kit, as the photos of the real aircraft show a pretty neat bird (I am not a fan of flooding the model with accent panel lines to show each and every rivets at that scale but this is personal). I put a typical Aggressor mission configuration with a jamming pod in the centerline (aftermarket). the missile's fins are all re-made in aluminium can sheet. Here are the photos: The real bird: Mine: ...and the Bandit in its tarmac: I hope you enjoyed the model, critics most welcome! I plan to build a "B" version of the Viper, anybody can tell me which kit is the best at that scale????
  15. Bréguet 1150 Atlantic "Italian Eagle" 1/72 Revell (03845) The Atlantic was developed by Bréguet in response to a NATO specification to replace the Lockheed Neptune as a long range maritime patrol aircraft. The design was a conventional mid winged monoplane powered by 2 Rolls Royce Tyne Turboprop engines. As a designed for purpose aircraft a large ventral weapons bay was included as well as a retractable surface search radar, with a Magnetic anomaly detector in a tail boom. The primary weapon was air launched anti submarine torpedo's, although mines, depth charges and anti ship missiles could be carried. Its reported Italian Aircraft have flown with NATO provided nuclear weapons. Sonar buoy tubes are located behind the weapons bay. Originally the French ordered 40 and the Germans 20. Later the Italians ordered 18 and The Netherlands 8. The Kit Here Revell have re-boxed their kit from 2003, this is though only the second re-boxing of the kit. This kit come with special markings for an Italian example with a complete airframe motif of an Eagle on it. With 9 sprues of grey plastic and 2 clear ones you got a lot of plastic in the box, there is a full weapons bay, and torpedoes & other stores for it; and it looks like all the parts for different versions are on the sprues as well, most notably the rear fuselage with the sonar buoy dispensers. There is nice engraved detail throughout and the moulds have held up really well. Construction begins away from the cockpit in the centre of the aircraft with the weapons bay. Two sides, the roof of the bay and two end bulkheads make up this section. Into the are added the racks for the weapons. There are also quite a few stencil decals for the bay as well. Of course if you are going to close this up on the finished model you dont have to do this work, though it would be a shame to hide all the detail in here! Once the bay is complete it can be added into the main fuselage section and this can be closed up, not forgetting to add in four windows before you close it up. We can then move onto the cockpit (phew). Floor and side consoles are added to the main lower part and rudder pedals are fitted. Control yokes for both stations go in followed by the seats and the instrument panel (instruments are provided as decals). The lower front observation position is built up and attached to the underside of the cockpit. then the rear bulkhead goes on. The search radar is built up and added to the back of this bulkhead, it has an "in flight" position, and an "on ground" position depending on how you are building your model. The completed cockpit can then be put inside the two halves of the main fuselage. The two part cockpit canopy and the nose glazing can then go on, and the front fuselage can be joined to the centre part. Work now moves to the rear of the aircraft with the vertical tail and tail planes being assembled and added to the fuselage. The MAD boom is also assembled and added here along with the correct under fuselage insert. Next up its the wings. These are convectional left/right with uppers and lowers. The first thing to work on for each wing is the turbo prop engine. In the upper wing half the rear bulkhead for the engine are goes in and then a full length exhaust is built and attached to this, Next up in the lower wing the main wheel bays are built up if you are doing a wheels down version. The wing halves can then be joined and on each side of the nacelle the side parts are added. Under the nacelle the chin intake is added. The wings can then be attached to the fuselage. The propellers are made up and attached to the engine front, these are then in turn attached to the nacelles At the front the nose gear is built up and added along with the gear doors. The main wheel units the follow suit. If closing up the weapons bay then then the doors can be added, if opening them up then some surgery is needed before attaching the doors. Moving to the top of the aircraft the dorsal spine parts are added along with various antenna and aerials. Under the tail a whole host more aerial are fitted along with the rear entry stairs if the modellers wishes to open this. The last items to be added are the underwing spoilers and the wingtips. Decals There is only one option ton the sheet the rather impressive Italian Eagle from the Italian Air Force., 41 Stormo, 88 Gruppo form 2006. As good as the decal sheet is they cant do the whole aircraft in decal. Only certain parts are and the modeller has to paint the rest, though Revell have done what they did with the resent Cargolux 747 and provide masking templates to copy and use in the instruction booklet. Conclusion This will be an impressive kit once built up, my only small gripe is the Revell could have included markings for a standard line aircraft as an alternative to the special scheme. Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  16. This was a kit that I searched for a long time. They are rare these days and often change hands at ridiculous prices. This one I got on a Swiss auction site for a reasonable price,not cheap though... It was the 1985 Revell issue. Its the same mouldings as the Otaki kit,just this time in the Airbus house color markings. The decals were yellowed,so I ordered a replacement set from BSmodelle. The cheatline on the new sheet seemed too wide,so I used the Revell ones instead and only used the numbers and the titles from the new sheet. The kit has only a few parts,not very detailed but it has nice recessed panel lines and the fit is mostly fine. I improved the engine outlets as the kit ones were plain and also wrong in design. Photos of the original showed the outlets are pretty roughly installed. This was created by using plastcard plates and tubes. After the assembly,the whole model was sprayed gloss black as a baae coat for the metallics. Here I used Testors aluminium and silver and Gunze duraluminium to give some nuances. I tried not to overdo it because the real thing has a quite smooth metal surface. Airbus used 4 Super Guppies for transporting all kinds of parts for the A300,A310 and probably also the A320. They served fom the mid 70s to the early 90s,when they got replaced with the bigger Airbus Beluga,which is a heavily modified A300-600. Super Guppy No.4 is still flying today,with NASA,while the others are preserved in Toulouse and Hamburg. One was lost in an accident. Alex
  17. Normally I am building models of aircraft, but I couldn't resist buying and building this kit for a change. My uncle owned a similar type of this typical tractor of the early 1960s, so it kind of reminded me a little bit of my younger days. The kit is constructed as an so called easy-click kit and theoretically you can put away the bottle of glue. Well, I recommend using some. Without painting, the model would definitely look like a toy. So I painted all parts, especially the rubber tyres and the chrome-plated parts forming the accessoryies of the engine cowling. I exclusively used Revell Aqua Colors, a mix of Smaragdgrün and Moosgrün with a little yellow for the body and Sand mixed with Alu for the above mentioned Gold-Chrome plated parts. For the other small parts different mixes of red, brown and other shades. This is not a tractor forgotten in the field and rusting and rotting away, but simply awell used one. The seat is already worn out and you can find a lot of traces from intensive use. Hope you like the short excursion to an agricultural subject. cheers, Norbert
  18. Again something new from me. This time an Airbus A400M in 1/72 scale from Revell. I got the kit 2020 as a gift for my 50th birthday. This is the re-release from 2017. To enhance the somewhat simply presented model I got myself an engine from black dog and wheels from Armory. The model was painted with colors from MRP. The gray camouflage color is MRP105. The decals were a bit difficult at times. The details inside are a bit basic and some are missing on the outside as well. But I left it like that. I hope you still like the plane.
  19. After seeing David H's progress on his new Tamiya 1/48 F-4B I decided to get to work on my F-4 stash to make way for the Tamiya kit. Maybe, someday, when I save up some $$. I have 8 1/48 Hasegawa F-4 kits of various types, 2 of which are the RAF FGR.2. I have one Hasegawa and one Revell rebox of the same kit. I started on the Revell since I wanted to trash the crappy box anyway. Somewhere over the years I picked up some aftermarket including a set of Aires seats and the Eduard photoetch cockpit upgrade. I also have a couple of reference books and some additional decals. I want to build these jets as they may have looked serving in 23 Squadron. One in green/gray and one in the grays (Falklands deployment). I think I have enough decals to cover any standard RAF Phantom. The Eduard cockpit set was fine. Sorry, no photos at this time, but I'm not convinced it's a huge upgrade over a well painted kit cockpit here. The seats were another story. The Aires resin is very nice. A huge improvement over the kit seats. But the PE belts are a nightmare. I finally got them in some semblance of order and attached where they should be, but they look a bit oversized. I have another set for a second kit and will probably leave off some of the belts just to make it less complicated. I did use the kit face curtain pull rings since the PE versions don't look right (flat). The kit itself is well known to most cold war modelers since this is the only FGR2 in 1/48th. The main components are together and ready for gloss for decals and weathering. My daughter and family are coming for a 10 day visit so I'll be away from the modelling desk for a bit. Hope to update this in a couple of weeks. Paints are Testors Model Master, since I still have a lot of them. Green is RAF Dark Green, Gray is Medium Gray FS36270, and the lower gray is Light Gray FS36492. The white patches forward of the main gear wells are the pylon sway brace arms. Since I'm painting the pylons white I figured these should be white also. They are part of the pylon, even if Hasegawa didn't make them part of the pylon on the sprue. The belt sticking up vertically on the right seat will be bent over the cockpit side console once the seat is in place. I did not add the leg restraint garters to the lower front of the seats.
  20. I was going to post this when I finished it last month, but I didn't want to clash with (or get unfavourably compared to !) HL-10's one. It's the ancient Revell 1/32 kit, (the original UK boxing) with its original price tag of 14s.9d! I bought it from eBay for a fair price from a poor chap whose eyesight is failing - he had already started the kit and was unable to continue. I hope I've done right by him Not many original parts left - replacements detailed as follows: Cobra Company: cockpit, 20mm cannon and turret (truly excellent pieces!) Fireball Modelworks: engine cowl and exhaust, rocket pods, decals (also very high quality) Werner's Wings: Extremely good vacform canopy, a must-have for this kit. CMK: crew figures Academy: Crew heads (from the 1/32 Hornet); turret miniguns (from 1/35 BlackHawk kit) Verlinden: helmets in the cockpit (from their detail set for the AH-64, wrong helmets for that kit, so very useful here!) Lots of aftermarket added on this! The excellent Cobra Company cockpit, which transforms the interior. The finished article in a simple diorama setting entitled, "Real Men Drink Kool-Aid"! (All pictures courtesy of IPMS Farnborough website, taken by Chris Bradley) The build was inspired by the book "Snake Pilot" by Randy Zahn, who flew 68-15068 "Cyndy Ann" as Aircraft Commander, callsign Cavalier 24. (The name was painted by crew chief Marshall "Bones" Maring, and was spelt differently from the real Cyndy, after whom the aircraft was named). This book is an absolute must-read if you like Vietnam-era aviation. Although a very simple diorama, Zahn mentions often that all they had to drink at the forward operating base at Phuoc Vinh was Kool-Aid, a fruit squash drink. I played on this for the diorama, and it meant I got to avoid the Vietnam diorama cliche of Coke cans! The XM-35 mod added a sawn-off 20mm Vulcan cannon to the underwing hardpoint on the left side. It was designed to enable stand-off engagements with the NVA .51 AA guns. The fitting of the cannon required extra wiring looms inside protective panels. The ammunition was carried in two sponsons on either side and fed through a crossfeed under the nose. All these additions are provided in the Cobra Company aftermarket set. Contrary to most online and book references (and even the decal instructions), 15068 had a left-mounted tail rotor. The diorama (if you could call it that) was a simple plywood base. It's based on a photo which shows C/1/9 Cav helicopters in the open on dirt parking without revetments. Suits the kind of simplicity I like! I added various vents, tail "stinger", and beacon mount/light from scratch, and extra details in the cockpit, rotors etc. I think for such an old kit, it's very well served with very high quality aftermarket items, and scrubs up nicely! I am happy to answer questions and offer any tips on the build process if anyone else is making one of these. All the best, Alan
  21. I started this kit about two years ago and have seen various fellow modellers experiencing copious grief with the tracks. Even YouTube experts seem to finish up with gaps. I've been putting off trying to finish the model for months now because of the tracks issue. This is my first attempt at link & length tracks (A Tiger II is probably not the best place to start) I don't really want gaps if I can avoid them............. I've completed the wheels and cemented the idlers in place leaving the sprockets free as per some advice I found on t'internet. (This was before I received helpful advice to place the wheels on the axles and stick the tracks to them in order to construct a running gear unit accessible from both sides as the whole lot could be taken off and worked on.) I've painted the tracks on the sprues, possibly a mistake, as there's now paint in the link slots where the cement has to go. And I've added the top run on one side. I think, so far as I can see, that the next steps will be to work round the sprocket and down to ground level then on under the wheels round to the idler. Would value any suggestions. From experience does anyone think I need to clean out the link joints? Is there something else I should be doing? TVM in anticipation.....................
  22. On display in the Revell stand at the Nurnberg Toy Fair 2020. Revell is to release a new tool 1/48th Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird kit in 2021 (or later as Revell is not famous for the respect of such deadlines). Source: http://www.greenmats.club/forums/topic/6758-revell-1-sr-71-засветился-в-нюрнберге/ Source: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2805402012855804&set=pb.100001580974587.-2207520000..&type=3&theater V.P.
  23. Those who have followed my recent builds will know of my affinity with the 747. Whilst my current 747-436 tribute build is stalled (I'm still waiting for replacement decals), I thought I would turn my attention to some more modern 747 kits. Hopefully they will be far less hassle and go together much more easily than the venerable Revell 747-400! The only modern version of the 747 is the -800 variant. Both Revell and Zvezda have 1/144 versions of this aircraft, but which is best? There's only one way to find out - build them both! To start, here are the two boxes: First impressions - the packaging on the Revell box is superior, as are the decals. The quality of the sprues looks pretty comparable - time will tell as the build progresses... More on that later! Regarding the schemes, I am going to venture into the world of custom decals and build these two as 'what ifs'. Both models will be finished in a 'Utopia' or 'World Image' livery, used by British Airways at the turn of the century and then dropped in favour of the current 'Union Flag' scheme. It was a bit marmite(!), but I quite liked it and thought it would be an interesting side project to design something completely different and previously unseen on a 747. One model will be finished in the 'Youm al-Suq' design, representing Saudi Arabia. This scheme was only ever used on two aircraft - an Embraer 145 (G-EMBJ) and a 737 (G-GBTA). Images of these two aircraft can be seen on the artist's website: https://www.shadiaalem.com/british-airways-utopia-project I purchased some decals designed for the 737 and set to work on photoshop, amending the design to fit a 747. Here's the original decal: Then after many, many hours of work, I created something 747 sized: The other airframe will receive a variation of the 'Colum' livery used on my tribute build. This design was quite well received and there were several different versions of this design in use. I am basing my decal on G-BGDR, a 737-236. I bought these decals earlier in the week and have a few hours of work ahead of me... Here's how they look, compared with the 747: Obviously they need enlarging and I will have to make a few modifications and additions along the way! I hope to turn my attention to these two models soon - I need a break from the endless round of filling/sanding/priming which seems to be happening with all my other projects at the moment! Just gluing plastic together will make a pleasant change...
  24. Hi everyone, This build has been a long, long, time coming but what better time to start it than after a first COVID vaccination! To cut a long story short, over the years I've often seen the helicopters of the Midlands Air Ambulance charity flying over- whether it's coming into the QE Hospital in Birmingham, flying over our home now and again, returning to Cosford, or even while out and about. They do remarkable work and it's only right that I have a go at modelling such a fantastic machine. My previous foray into a 1:72 G-OMAA can be found here, but this time I will have to make my own decals and have a much better go at the interior. Here's the base kit: Colour scheme-wise, there are a few variations when it comes to decals. Although the 2 photos (from Cosford 2019) shown below would be good to use, I also have other reference material with the "Babcock" logo replaced by the "Bond" logo- it's a minor point, but I think the white lettering makes for a slightly more aesthetically interesting model. As you can see from the above, there are a lot of decals to try and replicate. Let's get cracking! All the best, Sam
  25. I've started a Revell T-80 BV. I'm wondering what the flaps between the front track runs are made of on the actual vehicle. (I know they're plastic on the kit.) Are they armour plate to protect the lower front by triggering shaped-charge AT projectiles or heavy rubber like the rear side skirts appear to be?
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