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Found 1,613 results

  1. My latest kit is finished the name come from the use of gundam parts from the 1/100 MG Strike Gundam. A good number of other kits were used to make this flying car. I have also changed the inside of the car to a 2 seater and the there are a few other small changes to the car other than all the jet engines. I really enjoyed this one, there were plenty of challenges but it end up being ok. Comments wellcome. Cheers Brian.
  2. Hi everybody; here's my new project, the 1/72 Revell Eurofighter Typhoon This type entered into Italian Air Force service (AMI, Aeronautica Militare Italiana) in 2004, and it's currently deployed in three different bases: Grosseto (4° Stormo), Gioia del Colle (36° Stormo) and Trapani Birgi (37° Stormo). The kit supplied decals allow to build six different versions: two Germans, one Austrian, one British, one Spanish and one Italian, which is the one I'm doing. Typical Revell instruction sheet, with basically useless color table - it only refers to Revell paints The airframe I'm going to reproduce and the sprues (there's many of them ) The clear parts: the windshield shows some bubbles While the canopy has an annoying moulding seam going all along mid-line I'm planning to use the AM cockpit set from PAVLA More later, now I need to take care of my lawn. Ciao
  3. Patrol Torpedo Boat PT-579 / PT-588 (05165) 1:72 Revell PT Boats by their very name are Patrol Torpedo Boats. They are smaller fast attack craft designed primarily to launch torpedoes at enemy vessels using their fast speed as a their primary advantage. Elco were the makers of the longest, and most produced of these PT Boats made for the US Navy. Even though the main armament was four torpedoes later towards the end of the war some boats received two eight cell Mark 50 rocket launchers. These launched 5" spin stabilised Mark 7 and Mark 10 rockets. These had a range of upto 11,000 yards. These were equivalent to a 5" shell from a destroyer and the PT Boats carried 16 in their tubes with 16 reloads. This gave these Boats quite a punch. The Kit This is re-issue of Revell's new tool kit from 2018 with new parts to reflect the different armament of these boats, namely the rocket launchers and the 37mm M4/M9 autocannon which was not in the previous kit. In addition this kit features the lightweight 22.5" Mark 13 torpedoes on lightweight roll-off type racks, over the Mark 8 21" torpedoes in Mark 18 tubes which again were on the earlier release. As well as the main hull parts there are a further 11 sprues of grey plastic and a clear sprue. Construction begins with the hull. The left and right parts are joined with a centre bulkhead being added to stiffen things up. A small insert is added into the bow. The lower hull part at the back is separate and this needs to be added in. The transom will need to be added in, though or some reason this is not mentioned in the instructions! its not there in step 3 but appears in place in step 7? The inside parts of the deck houses must be added to the main deck and this can then be joined to the lower hull. The upperdeck is then fitted out with a myriad of deck fittings, hatches and other parts. Moving to the bottom of the hull the prop shafts and rudder are added. The stand for the boat can then be made up and used if need. Finally on the transom the exhausts are added. Moving to the top the model the superstructure is made up along with its internal parts. The side gun mountings are also made up and added at this time. For the aft deck the 40m Bofors and its mount are built up and added on. On the foredeck both the 37mm auto cannon and 20mm Oerlikon are completed and mounted. Next up the main armament of the 22.5" Mark 13 torpedoes are added along with their roll off racks. The radar mast is made up and mounted to the main deckhouse roof which can then be added to the model. The double machine gun units can then be added to the mounts previously installed. Last up the 5" rocket launchers are made up and mounted to the deck. Markings The decal sheet has markings for PT-588 & PT-579 from Engine Torpedo Boat Squadron THIRTY NINE (PTRon 39), Pacific Fleet, Samar, P.I., July 1945. Conclusion Its good to see this out representing the later model of the PT boat with the increased firepower. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  4. M48 A2CG Patton (03287) 1:35 Revell Despite the fact it share the name Patton with the M46/M47 the M48 was designed as a replacement for these tanks, plus the M4 and the M26. The M48 was truly the first generation Main Battle Tank for the US Army. Designed by Chrysler over 12000 were built and the type went though many upgrades and changes over its life time. The Tank was also sold to many friendly nations inside and outside NATO. The German Army made considerable use of these tanks until they were replaced by the Leopard 1. The M48 A2 brought about an improved powerpack & transmission, along with improved turret control. In German service the A2GA2 replaced the gun with the 105mm L7 cannon and a different MG3 mount. Over 650 M48s were upgraded to this configuration. The A2CG version added a Raumbi rangefinder and smoke grenade dischargers to the turret. With the introduction of the Leopards these tanks were sent to Territorial units. A mine clearing version of the M48 remains in German service. The Kit This is re-issue of Revell's kit from 2014 with new parts to reflect the latest tank. The kit arrives on 6 sprues of grey plastic, a set of rubber tracks and a length of aerial wire (not shown). Construction starts with the lower hull, the sides are added to the main base along with the rear lower part. The engine grills are added along the the drive sprocket transmission parts. The suspension parts are added along with main wheels, idler wheels and return rollers. The drive sprockets can then be added along with the rubber tracks. The top hull can then be added and the engine intakes placed in. The front fenders are added along with the parts which hold the track covers up, and the tool boxes on them. To finish the lower hull off the lights are added along with tow cables and a myriad of smaller parts & fixings. Lastly the drivers hatch is added which can be open or closed (however there is no interior in the kit). Now for the turret. The upper and lower halves are joined with the gun movement added in between. The exterior mantlet cover is then added along with the gun barrel. Antenna housings and hatches are then added to the turret. Exterior fuel cans are added along with stowage boxes. The large commanders hatch with its machine gun is then made up and added tot he turret. The searchlight is added to the top of the gun, and the smoke dischargers are added to the side of the turret. It can then be fitted. If you want to model the tank in travelling mode with the gun to the rear then the rear mounted gun carrier can be used. Markings The decal sheet is pretty small, but provides three options; Panzer Battalion 354, Hammelburg 1974 Panzer Battalion 363, Kuhlsheim 1974 Panzer Battalion 364, Kuhlsheim 1974 Conclusion The tank is a true cold war warrior and a good edition to any Post WWII German Army collection. Recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  5. As part of my effort to clear my backlog of started kits I have dug out my Matchbox Spitfire. I started this literaly decades ago, but didn’t get far. I have looked at it occasionally, but no action. Then I bought some Xtradecal decals for it, SAC MkIX undercarriage legs, MasterCasters interior, Master gun barrels. Finally I found out about the Grey Matter correction set for the nose, which of course I immediately ordered on a wim. Having now spent about ten times what the original kit cost, guilt has led me to this, my first WIP. It will not be a tutorial, I am not that good, it will not be a guide to the ultimate accurate Matchbox Spitfire, but posting about it will serve to prod me to get it built. With a little luck, at about the halfway point, somebody will announce a new accurate Mk 22/24 for you guys waiting for one. We will start with the nose, the Grey Matter nose is one seriously large accurate lump of resin. I may scratchbuild the u/c legs out of brass because even the SAC legs might fold under the weight! It also might be the first Spitfire build to need weight in the tail to prevent it becoming a nose sitter. You can see the difference with the kit item. The panel lines look much more to scale than the Matchbox lines-lol.
  6. Details to be added later . V-P
  7. So with 2 group builds just finished I figured I needed some more styrene on the workbench. I had this in the stash and figured hopefully it will fit into the GB as what if/speculative, since there were only 3 prototypes ever built, the first an engine less glider (which crashed on landing), the second crashing due to engine failure on a test flight and the third prototype being captured at the end of WWII whilst still in construction. None were ever fitted with weaponry and probably never had camouflage markings. More information here on wikipedia. I'll be doing a camo scheme of my own devising, also building the kit as in flight as it looks a bit goofy with the over-sized tricycle undercarriage and without the sensor (pitot?) that the kit has underneath, so keeping the clean lines. 7 All the parts (including clear) come in one sealed plastic bag. There's very few sprues / parts - one sprue being entirely taken up by the wings. Instructions are typical of Revell at the time, just 2 sheets of A3 printed in monochrome, folded together. The decals don't look great, the transparent parts being particularly bad - maybe I'll be able to find something in my bits box to replace them?
  8. MH-47E Chinook (03876) 1:72 Revell The CH-47 Chinook is a tandem rotor heavy lift helicopter, developed by Vertol and manufactured by Boeing Vertol since 1962. Its incredible longevity is testament to the quality, flexibility and robustness of the design. Over 1,200 examples have been produced and the type has seen frontline service in conflicts such as the Vietnam War, the Falklands Conflict, both Gulf Wars and Afghanistan. In its capacious loading area, the Chinook can lift a 24,000lb payload or carry anywhere between 33 and 55 troops. The MH-47E is a dedicated special operations variant and a development of the earlie MH-47D. It is equiped with in-flight refuelling, fast rope-rappelling system, terrain following radar and increased fuel capacity. The UK ordered eight CH-47Es (known as the HC3) but the type famously never entered service due to bungled procurement arrangements that were subsequently highlighted in a National Audit Office report. The airframes eventually entered service with avionics reverted to Mk2 specification at great and uneccesary cost. Keen-eyed modellers will realise that Revell's Chinook is actually Italeri's Chinook (the same kit has previously been released by Airfix too). No matter however, as the Italeri kit is really rather good and pretty much the only modern-ish kit other than the Trumpeter effort. It is broadly comparable to Revell's own kits of the same era. Inside the large boxvelope are three large frames of grey plastic and a smaller frame of clear plastic, as well as decals and full colour instructions. Assembly begins with the interior - more specifically the flight deck. As well as the instrument panel and centre console, there are two seats, pedals, cyclic and collective controls. Decals are provided for the instrument panel and centre console, even though these parts actually have rather nice detail moulded in place. Aft of the cockpit the rest of the interior is fairly plain, but you can finish the model with the loading ramp open if you wish to do so and dedicated parts are provided for this purpose. If building the US Army version, you will need to cut away both of the fuselage side fairings and replace them with the alternative parts supplied with the kit. It's a little surprising to see such major surgery is required in order to build what is, after all, a very mainstream kit. Thankfully the British version requires no such work. Once the interior sub-assembly has been sandwiched between the fuselage halves, the engine pods can be assembled. These are each composed of six parts and are reasonably detailed. Athough the interior isn't overly detailed, the loading ramp is pretty nice. Optional parts are provided to finish it with the ramp down and it looks as though it could be moveable once fixed in place. The undercarriage is pretty good for the scale, while there are dozens of antennae blades, lumps and bumps included and these naturally differ between the US and British versions. Both versions make use of a rather nicely detailed minigun and of course the prominent in-flight refuelling probe is included too. The rotor heads are pretty nicely detailed and the blades are nicely represented too. The clear parts are nicely rendered and of course the nose of the aircraft is also moulded with the cockpit windows. Two different options are provides for on the decal sheet. The first is and MH-47E of the 160th Special Operations Aviation Regiment "Night Stalkers", Fort Campbell, Kentucky, USA, 1998. The second option is for Chinook HC Mk.3 ZH903, Royal Air Force, 2004. The decal sheet is nicely printed and a decent amount of stencils are included. Conclusion Although starting to show its age, this is still a pretty decent model. Perhaps the fact that it has endured for over twenty years with only Trumpeter producing a Chinook in this scale in the meantime is testament to its merits. Detail is solid without being stellar, while panel lines are good enough to stand up to comparison with more modern kits. Overall this is a nice model and a good replica of a Chinook can be built from what you get in the box. Revell model kits are also available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  9. Bf109G-10 (Erla) set is intended for Revell 1/32 kit. The kit allows to solve major nose section shape problems such as slim, narrow appearance, incorrect spacing between MG troughs, strange “dent” under supercharger intake, oil cooler fairing shape and other small details visible on nose surface. Basic set RC3214 consist of four resin details and will be available also in bundle as RP3214 with our PE sets (exhaust pipes shrouds and steel oil cooler meshes). RC3214 parts list: Cowling for Bf109G-10 – 2 pieces Supercharger intake – 1 piece Oil cooler – 1 piece. RP3214 parts list: Cowling for Bf109G-10 – 2 pieces Supercharger intake – 1 piece Oil cooler – 1 piece PE parts fret – 2 piece.
  10. So here she is, my first Shackleton, an aircraft I've loved since childhood when they used to clatter over into Woodford occasionally, the highlight of any schoolday when that happened! Built straight OOB with just a few little aerial additions after reading Chally71's Shack thread on here - many thanks for the info! No wires yet though, I'll get round to sprue melting another day. I was going to do WL756, but having seen that 795 is now preserved at St Mawgan (albeit as an MR2 again) I thought I'd honour her instead. I hope I've done this beautiful Avro justice ...
  11. Hello all, Sorry everyone if this question has been raised and answered before... I searched but couldn't find anything (user error?!). I'm very much looking forward to receiving a Revell boxing of the infamous 1/72 Concorde for Christmas. How do I know so far in advance? I bought it myself for my wife to wrap for me... but it does mean I get to do a bit of planning before the big day. I make an annual visit to Duxford with some students and rather like the livery of the Concorde there, G-AXDN. My question then, is there a definitive list of changes (large and not so large) between the pre-production G-AXDN and the production models? Obvious to me is the shorter tail-cone on G-AXDN compared to the production aircraft and the different engine nozzles? What else have I missed? Is a conversion of the kit back to G-AXDN possible given my mediocre modelling talent (I reference my Kestrel build)? Thanks for looking, Jack
  12. Time to bite the bullet. Back in May I was asked by a friend of mine to build a Tonka for him. There was one on 56Sqn that he worked on regularly and that's the one he wants built, but could I actually do 2. 1 for him, 1 for someone else on the Sqn. "Not a problem" Said I. "What scale??" Errrrrrr. I'd like So big, Right, 1/48. Never having built that scale, this is going to be fun. I managed to track down 2 and was about to go extras shopping when the offer of the Eduard kit happened, so now, I have 3 - 1 for me! So, here we go! The last Revell I build was their 1/72 Lancaster, and I was mighty disappointed, but I had been advised that this was a good kit (and fell within budget) and looking through the boxes, I was nicely impressed with the detail and mould quality  Starting with the seats, as you do. I was quite happy until I'd finished and looked into the Warpaint book (and the GR4 at Duxford) Great Reference - Working on the cockpit, going to be the kit one. and only the one done on day 1 (as I was off to play with the Southend Vulcan) I sanded down all the raised controls on the sides and screens, because I wanted the decals provided to sit flat. Sadly, I'm not great on the fine detail, so rather than muck it up. I decided onto a flat part would be better. Hopefully its not too bad;  I then couldn't resist adding the seats for a quick idea of how it would look (Still need to be de-blacked)
  13. Hi All, I must be a sucker for punishment. Yet another model that I have decided to finish along with all the others. This one has for no reason that I can work out, been sitting on the back-shelf for an enormously long time. I had built the engine, transmission & exhaust and had sprayed all the body parts in their final colour, then I put it away and forgot about it. This is the Revell 'Premium' range of 1/24th kits. There weren't many models in this series, This, a BMW 850 a Mercedes 560 C, coupe and cabriolet. I has many more parts than your usual Revell kit, and has a reputation for being difficult to build, almost to the point of being un-buildable! That currently, has not been my experience. The engine and transmission (No piccies unfortunately. I had assembled the engine and transmission into the floor-pan before I realised I had no pictures) went together well, as did the exhaust system. A bit over-the-top in the parts count department, but engineered well enough. I decided that mine would be black, so I sprayed it with Halfords' grey primer followed by a Halfords' Black (Not sure which one - there is more than one shade!) So, this is where we are now: The somewhat crumpled box. Looks impressive. The body: There are some minor imperfections that will polish out. I use Halfords' polishing compound. It's a old can, and appears to be quite different from the newer Halfords polishing compound. Sorry about the blurry rear-end, but I was using shutter priority on the camera in order to use flash, and it must have selected a very wide aperture, hence the shallow depth of field. The wheels: Now, this is one area where Revell could improve upon. The tyres are that Vinyl stuff. It has a few failings: It appears to be 'oily' to the touch It doesn't look very much like rubber (too shiny) It can melt polystyrene, so you have to ensure the wheel is painted where the tyre touches it. It seems to age badly and become brittle. All but one of the tyres has split right across the tyre. I resolved it by using CA glue in the gap to hold the tyre together. I then filled the remains of the gap with High-tack PVA glue. That has the advantage that it dries clear, so appears to part of the tyre, and it also dries quite flexible, similar to the original vinyl (event when brittle). It is quite difficult to see the splits now, so the repair appears to have worked. This is where the new stuff starts: The rear suspension went in first. There are over twenty parts to make up the rear suspension, even more when you add the brakes and springs! Seems a bit like overkill. Still for all that, it assembled well and it all fitted. I highlighted all the pipe-work by dry-brushing aluminium on to the raised pipes. It needed a bit of clean-up later but nothing serious. The exhaust system is also another example of a complicated break-down of parts. There are nine parts here. Fortunately it all went together well, like this: It all fitted well. No major gaps, just a smear of filler before the back-box on one of he pipes. The headers event connected to the manifolds. I was impressed. Another view of the rear suspension with the axles attached: Again, quite complex, but it all fitted well. This is one of the from suspension parts. Again the fit was well engineered, and it fitted well. This biggest difficulty was ensuring no glue got onto the revolving axle part. That's the bit in the bottom right corner. So, this is where we are at present: All suspension parts added, including anti-roll bars etc. The exhaust looked a bit too shiny, so I used a mix of Humbrol matt black and gloss brown, highly diluted in white spirit to "grubby" it up a bit. The white spirit doesn't attack the acrylic already there. It has stalled here due to a major cock-up on my part. The right suspension part at the front didn't want to stay in place. I thought perhaps that the strut needed to be pressed harder into the wish-bone, so I pushed a bit harder. Not a good idea. I managed to snap off the wish-bone and nearly lost it to the laminate monster (The carpet monster's close cousin). I was not impressed (understatement of the decade). After locating the broken part, I used epoxy glue to fix it back in place. The end result is a bit more flexible than I would like, but it doesn't appear to be going anywhere. The problem still remains that the strut keeps falling out. No better (or worse) than before. I think that the only solution will be to glue the strut in place and lose the ability to have functional steering. Having said that, apart from posing it off centre, I never do anything else with it, so it's not a huge loss. I'll just set it slightly off centre anyway. More soon, I hope. Thanks for looking, Alan.
  14. I've been flying back and forward between Bristol and Amsterdam regularly in these little Embraer beauties over the last year and thus felt the need to model one. Jadlam's recent clearance sale of this kit was the catalyst required. They do remind me more of a sports car than an airliner, and indeed the pilots seem to fly them in a slightly more aggressive manner than the Airbuses. Plus, they are much more comfortable than Easyjet's A319s and A320s - and they feed & water you during the flight! Although I previously built a Revell E195 a few years back, this is their recent E-Jet issue, featuring the shorter fuselage of the 190. It comes with rather plain Lufthansa decals in the box, so for this one I used the superb 26 Decals KLM Cityhopper set and selected a serial for one I know flies out of Bristol. Mind you, literally minutes after I ordered these, I found another vendor in the US selling a set that included the current colourful KLM 100 yrs markings, but these still met the bill perfectly! The kit is a fairly easy build with no vices. I added a little weight in the nose and had to fill and sand a few blemishes on the top of the fuselage where the sprue didn't detach cleanly. Unlike my previous build, in this case I managed to keep the tiny antennae intact despite my sanding! My kit was crisply moulded with little flash, although I have heard this is not always the case. For the KLM blue I used Revell 50 gloss enamel. The wings are Humbrol US Medium grey, which in retrospect is a little dark, but it all depends on the lighting of course!!!! As always the kit was hand brush painted enamel, with Klear and Micro Satin acrylic top coats to finish. FredT
  15. Hi folks, Well, as a not exactly even keeled singer from Boston used to sing, I'm back in saddle again. New home away from Paris, and a very nice 20 sq meter room in the basement just for me and my models. After a 10 month hiatus in modelling, I decided to tackle something I knew before going for stronger stuff. And I think I kinda know Revell's Tornado quite well. So : - one Revell IDS Tornado: check - one Mission Mark Decals "AMI Tornado before turnig grey" decal sheet: check - HARM missiles and pylons from Kinetic Hornet kit: check Let's roll. As usual, I carefully ignored the instructions (they are often wrong and induce an overuse of putty I'm totally not interested in). First things first: the air intake veins with the auxiliary intake doors fairings: Intake veins assembled and glued to the fuselage bottom: Quite a bit of flash on the wing glove seals parts: The wing gloves are glued to their fuselage sides and the sides are glued to the fuselage bottom: Wing pivots are glued in place (instruction are wrong there about which part goes where, something you'll have to get used to on Revell Tornadoes). Wings are assembled and glued on their pivot. There was a melted hole on the fuselage top I don't know the origin of. Well, it happens. The airbrake are glued to the fuselage top. With a bit of caution, no putty will be needed. And the fuselage top is glued in place. A bit of persuasion will be needed, but nothing much. The intakes are built (this is the messiest part so far, I used cyanoacrylate and accelerant as a putty for the joint lines under the intakes) and glued to the fuselage. The joints are rather clean so far: The airbrakes region will need some work, but nothing serious: The front end is quite good: I ground away the bits inside the upper fixed part of the wing: Then I glued them in place and added the fin: To be continued ith the cockpit. Cheers, S.
  16. Revell is to release 1/144th new tool Airbus kits - ref. 03942 - Airbus A320 neo Lufthansa New Livery - ref. 04952 - Airbus A321 neo Sprues on display at Shizuoka 2019 Sources: https://www.facebook.com/tetramodel/photos/a.2474802349220072/2475722535794720/?type=3&theater https://www.facebook.com/hobbyland.osaka/photos/a.2253464838073537/2253472751406079/?type=3&theater V.P.
  17. Last of a trio of 1/48 scale modern jet fighter/bombers (Mig 29A, F-18E and EF2000) that I have done recently, this is the Revell 2 seat Typhoon built OOB except for the usual PJ Production pilot figures. painted using Hataka acrylic modern RAF paint set 1 and stock box decals. The kit itself goes together reasonably well except for some gaps around the intake assembly and for the canopy that I just couldn't get to fit properly right at the end of the build Thinking I may just remove it and try again with it later. The instruction sheet was vague at best so hopefully everything is in the correct place!
  18. Build report can be found here: Comments are welcomed as always Ran
  19. Have just finished this as I wanted to take something to Telford.... also, shamelessly (considering the time I've been on BM), my first RFI on the forum too. Now, I just need more time to finish my other projects..... Finished He-111 1/72 Hasegawa by Totallyrad.co.uk, on Flickr Finished He-111 1/72 Hasegawa by Totallyrad.co.uk, on Flickr Finished He-111 1/72 Hasegawa by Totallyrad.co.uk, on Flickr Thanks for looking, any comments good or bad welcome
  20. Hi guys and gals, Can you believe this is my first Messerschmitt 109? I've been modelling for years and never got round to making one of these seminal aircraft! Well, I've now broken my duck so here's the very nice Revell G-6 Late kit in a dramatic nightfighter scheme (Red 2, 1. NJG) from an AIMS decal sheet. There are seven more versions on the sheet so it was great value. The aircraft was painted in Colourcoats enamels (still the best model paint I've ever used, and shall continue to do so!) I used RLM 74/75/76 and RLM 02 with an overspray of Night Black. I thought this was a really cool looking scheme and makes the clean lines of the aircraft look even more menacing! I don't know much about these aircraft or modelling them, so there are probably a few howlers - I just enjoyed it for the easy-to-build kit and cool paintjob! All the best, Alan
  21. Hi, Now with the F4U-4 is all but finished, its time to continue with my 'build two at any give time - if you want a chance in reducing the constantly growing stash' policy. This time I selected to tackle my first bomber / 2 engine plane. This build will be of a Revell A-26B I picked on eBay in a bag - literally in a bag. Some of the clear parts may indicate I have parts from two models. The bag did contain two copies of Instructions. I've put the bag in an old D-link modem box Decal sheet looks too yellow for comfort I may be looking for a decal sheet - any recommendation are welcomed. When I washed the parts and moved them to a box more easily accommodated on the bench - I've heard a small part falling - and the carpet monster got it Loosing a part even before I started - that's a first one.
  22. Ok,folk's here's the premise,operational commitments meant that the dedicated VIP Voyager was needed for it's original tanking role,it was decided that due to the new trading partnerships being forged around the globe government ministers and Royal family members needed to fly the flag in a manner akin to the US Presidents Air Force one so a new a-550 was ordered for this role.Making and winning the case was Airbus as compatibility with the current RAF fleet meant costs were by far the most competitive.No drab gray aircraft for this one full hi viz marking's are the order of the day
  23. Hi, these are basically the same kits with different decals. Both build oob (with some changes to the decals) without real problems ... As always: thanks for looking!
  24. Millennium Falcon (06777) 1:164 Revell Build & Play The Millennium Falcon seems to have been a main stay of most of the Star Wards films to date. The Kit As part of Revell's licencing of Star Wars from Disney they are releasing a whole host of kits for modellers of all ages. This is aimed at the cross over between toys and kits in that its pre-painted and ready to go with some easy click together construction. The unit also has a sound & light modules built in complete with batteries so its ready to go. Construction is fairly simple. First of all all the parts which are fitted from the inside are added. To the top section the upper gun turret, to the lower section the landing gear, side parts and the battery module (remember to remove the plastic tab which holds the battery contacts apart). The batteries are in a screw locked compartment so cant easily be removed by children. The upper part of the cockpit section is also added. The rear engine is added and then the two sections can be closed up. The radar is added and its good to go. Conclusion There is always the debate as to are these a model or a toy. I think they are a little simple for a model but a great toll to get children interested in doing something a little more advanced, and for the right age group that only has the be encouraged (Revell recommend this for Age 6+. Recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  25. Another 1/48 jet, this time a Revell F-18/E depicted in the colours of VFA-14 Top Hatters. Built entirely out of the box except for the PJ Productions resing pilot figure. paints are acrylic MIG USAF greys. A pretty easy kit to build with no major moments, apart from not quite getting the undercarriage legs level Base is a Hobbycraft wood painting panel, airbrushed with biro lines and with a bit of added lawn. Please excuse photos, taken on mobile phone. Comments always welcome, good bad or indifferent
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