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Hey y'all! You probably didn't see it comimg but I'm doing yet another A-10. My plan is to build all of the 48th scale Hogs (excluding perhaps the Revell kit from 1979), and I'm still missing the Tamiya, Italeri and GWH boxings. That is, until the other day when I finally picked up this newest molding. This kit been on my list ever since it got first announced, and I'm hoping it'll be one of my nicest builds. The GWH kit is easily the best A-10 on the market period, but I won't go in to it too much, as it's been talked about a lot in other posts. I'm a huge fan of the A-10 and it was about time someone released a proper kit which doesn't need an excess of $50 worth of aftermarket parts to make it accurate. That doesn't mean I wasn't going to get any though. I went all out this time; 3D decals, PE, resin parts, you name it. So instead of spending $50 on aftermarket parts I spent about... $115. I can't wait to see how it all fits together as some of it will be completely new to me as well. So there's an element of learning in here too. We love learning. And making mistakes... My current list of aftermarket additions is as follows: -Quinta Studio 3D decals for the cockpit -Detail & Wonder landing gear upgrade -Mini Craft Collection ACES II ejection seat -DEF model pilot figure -Eduard photo etch set for the exterior and interior -Eduard GAU-8/A resin barrel -Galaxy-Model pitot tube -Eduard ACES II ejection seat The Eduard PE set for the cockpit will go mostly unused thanks to the 3D decals, except for that sweet HUD frame, and their ACES II is unfortunately an older model which I think is no longer used on C model Hogs. I did still get it though for the resin mechanism for the open canopy, which looks fantastic. The actual seat I'll be using is from MCC, and is made for the Academy tooling, which means it's a bit narrow for the GWH cockpit. This isn't a massive issue though and I love the textured sheepskin seat covers, which you see on almost all A-10s. I think the detail in this seat is also nicer compared to the Eduard seat. MCC might be coming out with a GWH-specific seat as well, but I wasn't able to find it yet. Plus the Eduard seat can maybe be used on a future A-10 build, assuming it's not gonna be too wide for those tubs. The pilot figure is also made for the Academy kit but thankfully I can position her nicely on the GWH ladder as well. The difference in ladder size between the two kits is hilarious and I'm finding more and more small shortcomings in the academy kit as I get deeper into the GWH kit. I believe the pilot's likeness is mostly based on Kim "Killer Chick" Campbell, but I won't be building her exact aircraft, as it was an A-model, and in quite rough shape the last I saw it. There's a bit of a snag though... My kit came with a short-shot tail piece and my hobby shop said would take 8-10 weeks for a replacement part -that is, if they're able to get one from the supplier. The things I've heard of GWH's customer support is that they don't seem to have any. At least I won't have to try to deal with them. Thankfully I'm not in a hurry and it'll be fun to try to mend the defective part in the meantime, to see how good looking I can get it with some elbow grease. It's my first fundementally broken piece I've gotten in my over 20 years of building kits, which is an impressive amount of luck. Just a shame it had to happen on this particular kit. Well, at least it'll keep me from building this thing too fast! I started out by attaching most of the PE into the kits exterior and cockpit. The flare dispenders for one are incorrect on the kit and the PE comes in handy here. I'm using AK's ultra glue for the metal parts this time as I'm out of CA glue at the moment. I'm not so sure about the adhesion of this stuff yet, but at least it cleans with water. We'll have to see if any pieces come loose later on in the build. I also cleaned up most of the resin parts. The thin mold gates are quite an upgrade from the blocks of resin I had to saw off from my previous resin pieces. Just a joy to work with and the detail is exquisite. The landing gear upgrade set especially is flawless. The included steel rods ensure a solid stance for the kit. The wheels are also fantastic, not that GWH's wheels were anything to scoff at either. The vent on the port side of the front fuselage was also included in the PE set, but the fit was a bit suspect. To ensure the metal wouldn't sink into the deepened section, I added some thin sheets of styrene to the edges to prop the PE parts flush against the surface. It'll also give some depth to the vent holes once they're eventually attached. I'm also going to spray some black in there first to ensure bare plastic isn't visible on the finished model. Next I sanded down the instrument panel and the side panels in preparation for the eventual 3D decals. It'll be my first time working with them and I can't wait to see the results. The Eduard instructions say to cut off the kit's HUD frame, but use the base for attaching the PE frame. However, the fragile clear piece got cracked while I was cutting the frame off. The piece was quite rough to begin with, so I decided to make my own with some styrene sheets. Three sheets attached together made for an appropriate thickness, and I used circular piece from the spare parts bin for the hole that the kit piece was supposed to go in. I attached the piece at a slight angle, similiar to the real thing and began setting the whole thing up. I'm also going to add some wiring to the front section, much like I did to the aft of the cockpit, which was evident from my references. It's a tricky spot to find photos of, so I got some screenshots from a cockpit video on YouTube. Question for the Hog experts - what's that slot behind and to the left of the HUD assembly? I'm wondering if it's something on all A-10's or if it's something extra and if I should try and recreate it. I'm also playing with the idea of giving our pilot a helmet in her hand. I already carved out a Tamiya F-16 pilot helmet I had, but I doubt it's the exact one used by A-10 pilots. I also have an extra one from the Academy kit but the size of it is once again just laughable. Another option would be to attach the helmet on the seat inside the cockpit but I'm not sure yet. I also attempted to detach the oxygen mask and have it dangle on the side but the lack of detail on it is unfortunate since it was just cut out from the helmet. I'll also use some leftover hoses inside the cockpit to simulate the oxygen lines and the wire for the helmet mounted cueing system I've seen on my references, but that's after I've set up the 3D decals. We'll see how active I am with this kit as I'll definitely take my time with it. Hope you guys enjoy the ride.

Hi 👋 A few pics of my 1/48 Monogram A-10A Thundersbolt II. I got this kit a few years ago from a childhood friend. I am still impressed how good the Monogram kits are, the details are really nice. A Warthog more or less OOB. Just added a ResKit pylon, som weapons from the spare box, a Master pitot, a pilot from Def.Model and Print Scale decals. Thanks for looking 😀 Cheers! /Fred

Hi everybody; I don't think the subject needs any introduction, as it's a well known aircraft. Slightly out of my normal interests (which are mainly fighters or fighter/bombers), it is also the type my friend and fellow BMer @Gene K flew in the second part of his career. So let's see: the kit aftermarkets that I'll be using and the specific aircraft I'm modelling Which corresponds to this, in real life (pic from https://f16crewchief.deviantart.com/art) BTW, does anybody know where to find more pics of this specific airframe? This one seems to be the only one showing up on Internet. Anyway, I started with a dryfit of the major parts: nose wheel bay and fuselage some panel lines not lining up very well in the nose and underneath A bit of a gap in the nose U/C bay area too Port top wing has some moulding defects at the root and on the outer edge which not surprisingly led to a bad alignment, when mated with the bottom section Starboard wing looks much better test fitting with fuselage The root joins look better once you apply a little pressure to set the correct dihedral At this point, I decided to check the fit of the lovely Aires resin tub which sports a very restrained casting block and a slot to be paired with the inside of the retractable ladder bay In order to fit it into the fuselage, the areas marked with a red pen need to go The IP coaming needs to be removed too, because there's a resin part for that too, but later for that. The kit cockpit mounting tabs need to go as well so after some scraping with a ball pointed Dremel tool and some cutting with a knife, I got here This way, the inner part of the ladder bay fits into the tub slot. As for the rest: Still a loooong way to go .... Comments, hint, tips, suggestions, critiques - all welcome Ciao

This is the Italeri A-10A, depicting an aircraft of the 81st FS from Spangdahlem deployed to Aviano for Op ALLIED FORCE in 1999. A few mods were required to the base kit to fix some errors and to bring it up to spec for a later A-10A. These included: · Reduce the width of the LAU-114 Dual Rail Adapter for the LAU-105 missile rails · Fill hole at the front of the engine fan boss · Reshape the rear of the wheel pods · Add the LASTE modifications · Remove AN/ALR-46 RHAW antenna at the tail and nose, replace with AN/ALR-69 fit · Reshape nose for a less angular shape · Drill holes under rear fuselage for various vents · Remove stub antenna from top of starboard fin · Relocate/modify antenna fit appropriate to the period Other mistakes (eg wing tip lights on the wrong way round, and one of the grilles under the fuselage vanished into another dimension) are all my own. I used Eduard details and masks, Astra decals, Brengun LAU-131 rocket pods, Master gun barrels and pitot, and ResKit wheels. Hasegawa weapons sets provided the AN/ALQ-131 ECM pod and Mk 82s (modified to look like they are fitted with proximity fuses), while AIM-9Ls came from an old Italeri USA/NATO weapons set. Main camo colours are Vallejo and weathering is with Flory washes and Tamiya powders. The lightning bolt on the access ladder door is a bit of artistic licence; I don’t know what artwork if any this aircraft had on the door but it is a common place for decoration on the A-10 and it picks up on the contemporary 81st TFS markings. I found the Reid Air Publications “Modern Hog Guide” absolutely indispensable in trying to get the equipment and antenna fit appropriate to an aircraft from this period because the A-10 has gone through a lot of changes over the years. Chris

I'm planning on building a JAWS A-10 in 1/48th. I'm thinking of using the Revell kit, since it seems to be a nice baseline and it's been a while since I built the Revell kit, and one did pop up in my LHS. Definitely going to ask how they got one since I haven't seen one in ages. Out of production or something? Maybe that's just Europe. Now, I know the Tamiya kit is technically the best for an early A-10, but I'm wondering how accurate their depiction of the lack of countermeasures dispensers are. If you don't have the kit, the areas are molded much more skinnier than all the other kits. You might ask, why not just build the Tamiya kit? Simply because I find the lack of detail too much and it just wasn't a pleasant build because of that. Anyways, my question is, how accurate is Tamiya's molding when it comes to these areas? Am I going to need to thin down the dispensers on the Revell kit, or will it be enough to just cover/fill them up? I know I'm splitting hairs here & most people won't notice but I strive for realism, especially when it's almost a one-off subject. Might be a long shot but if someone can find reference pictures of the areas where the dispensers would be, or just early A-10s in general, I'd be grateful... other than the common JAWS pictures.

A-10C Upgrade Sets 2nd Tranche (for GWH – Great Wall Hobby) 1:48 Eduard Great Wall Hobby (GWH) sprung a new 1:48 scale A-10C Thunderbolt II on us late last year, and although we’ve not seen one here at Britmodeller yet (we have one on the way), the potential given their history of well-detailed models is generating much excitement and anticipation as they reach people’s stashes and workbenches. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner, and we reviewed the first tranche of sets here recently. Now we have the second batch of sets available for you to salivate over and choose from. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. There are also some weapons sets and other more complex sets available now and coming soon, so watch out for our next review. Interior (491458) Two frets are included, one nickel-plated and pre-painted, the other in bare brass, plus a small sheet of pre-printed clear acetate sheet. A complete set of new layered instrument panels, sidewalls, and side consoles with added levers for the cockpit and the extensive instrument panel are in full colour, with rudder pedals; a replacement HUD that is made from PE, adding a lens to the lower portion, and sections of acetate film after removing the kit parts marked in red. The canopy is augmented by hoops with rear view mirrors, a hoop for the windscreen, and a frame for underneath the canopy to be seen when it’s posed open, adding skins to the sides of the retractable crew ladder bay, and vents on the sides of the forward fuselage, which isn’t strictly speaking part of the interior. Speaking of exterior, the undersides of the wings are upgraded by adding chaff and flare boxes to the wingtips just inside the downturned tip, and to the rear of the main gear bay nacelle, removing the moulded-in kit depiction beforehand under both wings. Zoom! Set (FE1458) This set contains a reduced subset of the interior, namely the pre-painted and acetate parts that are used to improve on the main aspects of the cockpit, as seen above. Whatever your motivations for wanting this set, it provides a welcome boost to detail, without being concerned with the more structural elements. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1459) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as the crew belts, you also get a set of pull-handles either side of the pilot's knees that gets him or her out of there in case of an emergency, plus a pair of straps on the drogue ‘chute pack in the ejection seat’s headbox. Review sample courtesy of

I've not been too active modelling wise the last 18 months given work commitments with the Ukraine/Russia and Israel/Gaza conflicts plus BAU - alos not many of the GBs matched my stash if I am honest... But I do have this below, no box, pics of sprues later - I am sure I bought it via this group! With the NATO 75th anniversary today, I think its fair to say the A-10s of the 81st Tactical Fighter Wing at RAF Bentwaters/Woodbridge in Suffolk, UK, were front and centre of the NATO commitment against the Soviet hordes during the Cold War - serving in the UK Army myself from 1985 I too trained against this threat amongst other 'out of area' commitments which were my units primary role, plus I used to visit the bases being a Lakenheath child...the old Warthog also saved my bacon a time of 2 in Helmand later on in 2006 - so lots of good reasons to build this model... https://www.caracalmodels.com/cd48192.html I did build a Tamiya version back in 2020 for the 80s NATO v Warsaw Pact GB so hopefully painting will be ok...

A-10C Update Sets (for Hobby Boss) 1:48 Eduard Hobby Boss have had a couple of A-10 kits in 1:48 over the years, but have recently released an updated kit for the modernised type C that is currently in use with American forces, complete with all manner of technological updates to keep it in touch with Allied forces, and taking out those of the enemy. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Interior (491324) Two frets are included, one nickel-plated and pre-painted, the other in bare brass, plus a small sheet of acetate film that has been pre-printed with shapes to aid cutting out of the parts. A complete set of new layered instrument panels, sidewall quilting and instruments, and complex side consoles with added levers for the cockpit and the extensive instrument panel for the cabin are in full colour; ejection seat controls with tip of the launch rail; details for the rear ‘turtle’ deck behind the pilot and on the closure mechanism, as well as on the sides around the aft of the cockpit. Additional parts are supplied for the HUD frame, and here one of the strips of acetate is scored to create a flat-topped right-angled triangle that fits inside the two sides, and a coloured PE lens for inside the bottom. Finally, the canopy and windscreen are detailed with additional instruments and roll-over hoop frames that include rear-view mirrors on the canopy side. SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL48098) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin, and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The 3D printed sheet contains a superbly detailed multi-part instrument panel that requires the removal of the inferior styrene details, plus more for the side consoles, which also have additional levers installed. A detail insert is provided for the control column, a colourful insert for the HUD and two patches on the top corners of the seat cushion are the last decals, then the kit seatbelts and seat controls are relieved of their moulded-in details so the new pre-painted PE replacements can be fixed in place to complete the overhaul. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1325) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as the crew belts, you also get a set of controls and pull-handles either side of the pilot's knees that gets him out of there in case of an emergency. Masks (EX915) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki masking tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. Masks Tface (EX916) Supplied on a larger sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism, which should come in useful if you purchase any of the detail sets that also include extra details for the canopy. Review sample courtesy of

A-10 Thunderbolt II 3D Decal Sets (for Italeri & Hobby Boss) 1:48 Quinta Studios When Quinta’s innovative products first came to our attention, they caused quite a stir, as well they should. The replacement Instrument Panels and internal details are mind-boggling to look at, because we’re used to seeing simplified styrene instrument panels, or Photo-Etch Brass panels with either two layers of etch, or laminated parts that can be tricky to glue together, even though they are pre-painted for your ease. But decals? These aren’t your run-of-the-mill decals though, they’re 3D printed in many layers and colours on a flat carrier film, having as much in the way of elevation as is needed to complete a realistic panel printed in the correct colours, complete with shiny dial faces and metallic-effect hardware, and often including cushions and seat belts in the set. Each set arrives in a Ziploc bag with a folded instruction booklet protecting the decals, which are also separately bagged, so they should reach you in good condition. The pictorial instructions are printed on glossy paper, and are shown in full colour as befits the awesomeness of the sets, showing exactly where each part should go on the actual model, so there’s no confusion due to the “pictures speak a thousand words” maxim. Additional hints and instructions are also included, marking out parts needing bases, kit parts that are used or replaced and other useful tips. The technical instructions in the text-based, giving additional tips to the new user about maximising adhesion and preventing lift at the edges by wicking in super glue. Although you are advised to use Super Glue (CA) to attach the decals to the surface permanently, preparation is much the same as your standard decal, but you will need to remove any raised detail that would be underneath the location depicted in the instructions, and some new parts will need small backing panels or bases on which to apply the decal. A slim piece of sheet styrene would perform that task, and painting the edges a matching colour should minimise its appearance or turn it completely invisible. We have four A-10 sets in for review that have been designed for the Hobby Boss and Italeri kits, or are suitable for all 1:48 Warthogs. Each one is available separately, and adds a huge amount to each of their intended kits in the usual Quinta style. A-10A Interior 3D Decal (QD48143 for Hobby Boss) Patterned for the Hobby Boss kit, this set comprises two sheets of decals, containing a superb instrument panel with additional instruments on the edges of the coaming, side consoles, more instruments in the windscreen hoop area, grey quilted insulation on the sidewalls, levers and a full set of seatbelts for the pilot’s convenience and safety, plus cushions for his dainty rear end. A-10 Formation/Slime Lights 3D Decal (QP48012 for all A-10 kits) Consisting of one sheet, this smaller, inexpensive set includes a full set of slime lights that are used as formation guides for their fellow aviators when not over enemy lines. There are a surprisingly large number of these in addition to the usual fuselage and tail sides. There are wingtip inverted T-shaped, twin fuselage lights between the rudders, and fuselage-top chevrons behind the cockpit. A-10 Exterior 3D Decal (QP48011 for Italeri) This set is made up from three sheets of varying sizes, which includes a number of exterior details that may not be present on your model, and even if they are, they’re probably not up to the quality, shine (where appropriate) and sharpness of these decals, and some of the kit lumps may even have to be sacrificed during seam sanding. As well as a full sheet of crew ladder door artwork for the interior, there are a large number of sensor blisters for under and on the nose, on the wingtips, on the horizontal tail, and behind the cockpit. There are also a couple of decals for the flip-down refuelling flap in the nose of one of the main landing gear sponsons. For the artwork often found inside the access ladder door, you have a choice of six colourful options, all of which have any internal details included in the printing, so they’re not just flat sheets. Don’t forget you’ll also need to get hold of suitable decals to match your chosen door artwork. Although these decals are patterned for the Italeri kits, most of them would work just as well with any of the other brands out there, with the possible exception of the ladder’s door. Yes, it’s the same picture as the one above. A-10C 3D Decals (QD48196 for Italeri) This two-sheet set is designed for the Italeri kit, and the first task is to adapt the instrument panel shape to better reflect the real thing in preparation for the new decals. The sides of the coaming are removed, and the lower centre section is flattened so that it is a single angle (rather than two), while the remains of the coaming overhang have three notches that are filled to make the area smooth. As well as the gorgeous instrument panel and coaming edge instruments, there are side consoles with levers and ancillary sections, a set of grey quilted insulation panels on the sidewalls, small instruments in the hoop of the windscreen, and a full set of crew belts, pull handles for the ejection mechanism, cushions, and even a large RBF tag that dangles from under the headbox. Conclusion Each of these sets is incredible in isolation, but as part of a suite they will look even more impressive on a completed model. The pictures of the infinitesimal switches, dials, glossy MFDs, quilting on the sidewalls and overall impressive crispness of the sets speaks volumes. Every cockpit with Quinta sets really needs a crystal-clear or opened canopy to show off the details, while the exterior sets should be very visible. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Hello all, Here's my just finished 1/72 A-10A, done as an early 1980's one from Myrtle Beach AFB in South Carolina. I used the Revell rebox of the Italeri kit, which I got for my birthday last year from a friend. I added an Aires cockpit set, some Quickboost intakes and a pair of Brassin TER's. The camo was done freehand with MRP, and the markings came from a Wolfpak sheet and some kit stencils. The kit is not perfect by any means, but in the end it looks like an A-10. Thanks for looking! Pete

A-10C Thunderbolt II 1/72 Revell (03857) The A-10 Thunderbolt II, or more commonly The Warthog is an aircraft specifically designed for ground support. Post war the USAF all but ignored the need for close air support (CAS) aircraft and found itself reliant on older propeller based aircraft such as the A-1 Skyraider. While this was an excellent aircraft in this role a 1966 study identified the need for a modern aircraft which needed to be at least as capable as the A-1. The A-X CAS would be the first US Aircraft specifically designed for CAS and the threat from large numbers of Soviet tanks. As such the specification called a 30mm rotary cannon armed aircraft capable of a short field performance and the ability to carry at least 16,000 lbs of external stores. 6 companies submitted proposals with Northrop & Fairchild being selected to build prototypes The YA-9 & YA-10. Fairchild won the fly off in 1973 and thus the Warthog was born. Over the years the aircraft has had a few upgrades. 2005 brought the A-10C and with it a new fire control system, ECM suite and the ability to use smart weapons. Despite the aircraft not being a sleek sexy fast jet it has proven and continues to prove its worth in modern combat roles. Despite many attempts to pension of the jet the aircraft is now scheduled to be in service to 2028 and maybe beyond. The Kit Here Revell have re-boxed the Italeri kit. While probably the best 1/72 now available it does reflect the the latest A-10C, and in modelling the trend for engraved panel lines over everything else. While the A-10 has some of these it is also festooned with large dome head rivets over the rear fuselage and tail, none of which are on this kit. The kit does provide the large fuel tanks seen on the A-10 and some weapons. There are Sidewinder, cluster bombs, other bombs, and a pair of mavericks. The rendering of the famous GAU-8 muzzle is very soft. Construction starts with the cockpit. The seat goes together and then fits into the tub, followed by the instrument panel. Details for the panel and the side consoles are provided as decals. Next up the front nose wheel recess needs to be mad up. Once this and the cockpit are complete they can be paced into the fuselage, and the main fuselage closed up. Revell recommend adding 30g of nose weight. Next up the main wing needs to be constructed. This is a single part lower with left/right uppers. Inserts need to be fitted into the airbrake recesses. The wing can then be joined to the fuselage. The engines are now made up into there podded unit and these can be added to the fuselage. On the wings separate parts are provided for open or closed airbrakes, The twin tail section is the next to be constructed. The tails fit the the cross member and this to the underside of the rear fuselage. The nose cone is fitted and along with it the muzzle for the GAU-8. The landing gear and its doors are next to go on. The fuselage is finished off with a few aerials and the under fuselage strakes. Moving to the wings the pylons and any armament options can be built up and attached. Lastly the canopy can go on, and if wanted the pilots boarding ladder can be in the deployed position. Decals Here the decal sheet is printed in Italy and features one option only for the Demo jet from 354th Fighter Sqn, 355th Wing, Davis Monthan AFB, 2019/2020 Conclusion While it maybe the better of the A-10 kits out there in this scale it does have a few issues, and you will be well prepared to get your own weapons and decals if you dont fancy making the demo bird. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or

Barksdale Warthog 79-0152 Thank you for watching! Regards, Tjeerd

I knew I wanted to take part in this GB, I have a history of building GW aircraft for GBs! I bought this kit a few years ago at a show, when I was first pondering moving to 1/48 (from 1/72). I never really felt any need to build it until now. I think it was when I realised that the only Gulf War kits in my stash were this and a 1/144 Revell Tonka with a Freghtdog GR4 conversion and Op. Granby decals- I may get round to that one later.. (Thinks- must get a suitable kit for next year's Falklands 40 GB- there's bound to be one!) So, my subject for this GB is an OA-10A, 76-0547, of the 23rd Tactical Air Support Squadron, 602nd TAC Wing, tasked with a Forward Air Control mission as "Nail FAC", based at King Fahd Airport, Saudi Arabia, and carrying "The Unknown Bomber" noseart. My kit is the Zhengdefu (don't laugh!) A-10A Thunderbolt II, but using AM decals kindly given by a fellow BMer, from a SpeedHunter Graphics sheet (still in the post!) This is the kit: Here are the decals, most of which will not be used. Only one of the five options offered is a Gulf War bird, and that one is missing noseart, among other things . . . And lastly, the comdedy instruction sheet! Apart from the "Chinglish" text, in the first construction stage, the builder is told to fasten the fuselage halves together with "cellophane tape" and "DO NOT CEMENT"- that's fine, but nowhere in the instructions does it say to cement the fuselage!- I get a mental picture of young modellers with Warthogs falling apart because they haven't been told to glue them! I think this could well contain some fun! See you all on Sunday! (And I've just noticed that the date on my camera is set a day ahead-no attempt to con anybody, just an oversight, I'll put it right, right now!)

A-10A Thunderbolt II Interior 3D Decal (QD32008 - For Trumpeter Kit) 1:32 Qunita Studio When Quinta’s innovative products first came to our attention a few months ago they caused quite a stir, as well they should. The replacement Instrument Panels and internal details are mind-boggling to look at, because we’re used to seeing simplified styrene instrument panels, or Photo-Etch Brass panels with either two layers of etch, or laminated parts that can be tricky to glue together, even though they are pre-painted for your ease. But decals? These aren’t your run-of-the-mill decals though, they’re 3D printed in many layers and colours on a flat carrier film, having as much in the way of elevation as is needed to complete a realistic panel printed in the correct colours, complete with shiny dial faces, lustrous MFD screens and metallic-effect hardware, and often including cushions and seat belts in the set. Each set arrives in a ziplok bag with a folded instruction booklet protecting the decals, which are also separately bagged, so they should reach you in good condition. The pictorial instructions are printed on glossy paper, and are shown in full colour as befits the awesomeness of the sets, showing exactly where each part should go on the actual model, so there’s no confusion due to the “pictures speak a thousand words” maxim. Additional hints and instructions are also included, marking out parts needing bases, kit parts and other useful tips. The technical instructions in the text-based sheet gives additional tips to the new user about maximising adhesion and preventing lift at the edges by wicking in super glue. This set for the Large scale Trumpeter kit supplies the instrument panel, side consoles and additional instruments on the A-10's front screen frame. Also included are the cockpit anti-spalling side pads, ejection seat pads, seat belts, seat handles and seat placards, as well as RBF tags. Conclusion They’re still a highly impressive product and look to be very useful, even more so to those who are not fans of PE (Like myself). Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Are you talking to me? Here's my latest off the workbench - it took a little more than 9 months in the making, mostly because I'm slow. A short summary of the project first KIT: Italeri 1:72 A-10A/C Thunderbolt II N.1376 AIRFRAME: Fairchild Republic A-10A Thunderbolt II 79-0196, 23rd TFW, 74th TFS Flying Tigers, while stationed at King Fahd Air Base in 1991, during Operation Desert Storm MARKINGS: kit decals, except for the blue fin edges. These were airbrushed, while the white lightnings with the squadron number were cut off the original decals. The Italeri proposed marking scheme isn’t entirely accurate, as it’s a mix up of two different airplanes. I had to adapt some of the kit decals to reproduce the correct serial numbers, use kill marks and crew names plate from a different scheme of the same sheet and just skip some of the decals/stencils which didn’t look to be there on the real AC PAINTS: mainly Lifecolor acrylics, airbrushed, with the addition of Model Master Metallizer Titanium and AK Interactive Extreme Metal Steel for the air refuelling receptacle and other metallic bits, such as the exhaust nozzles. WEATHERING: mostly with tempera washes, various hues. Some dot filtering with oil in selected areas Aftermarkets: - Aires resin/PE cockpit set - Quickboost air intakes (designed for the HASEGAWA kit, but they fit just good on this one too) - Master Gatling GAU-8 cannon and Pitot tube Scratchbuilding: - Nose and tail bulged antennae, using plunge moulded styrene - PAVE PENNY POD clear head and internal details, using clear PET, brass pipe and thin styrene bits - brake lines and cables on all the gear struts and inside the wheel wells, using various copper and solder wires - Ailerons/airbrakes inner details, using alu tape and copper wires Here's the WIP thread, in case you're interested in: Many thanks to everybody who followed the build, with lots of useful tips, insights and pointers; this aircraft is a type my friend and fellow BMer @Gene K flew in the second part of his career (he may have probably flown this specific airplane at some point), so this build is inspired by him - I hope I made it justice, despite of my inclination to weathering ... Enough blah-blah, here are the pics (I keep struggling in search of a decent setup for my RFI pics, so apologies for not being the best quality): This shot of the underside is an in-progress, RBF tags missing All comments welcome Ciao

Hi Guys, just finished this one, it was built for a GB on another forum. It's only the 2nd aircraft I've built, so plenty of mistakes and still a lot to learn.

Yes , another Warthog.. I hope i can finish it this time.. The box (maybe my choice for the subject) Aires cockpit Correct fan for the wrong kit.. i hope they fits well on the Italeri kit Kit decal and some spares from an old Superscale sheet

Joining you with this kit. Which has remained in my stash since it came out in 1997. Two finish options - both Europe Lizard. I've not decided which as yet.

Finished this today - the HobbyBoss A-10 with Authentic Decals aftermarket transfers and Eduard bombs and missiles. I'm visiting a friend in England tomorrow and her son James asked me specifically for a model of this type of aircraft - he requested 'wheels-up' so he can hang it from his ceiling, which required a bit of modification but the kit gear doors fortunately fitted very well. I added an Airfix pilot from the Vampire. I got the transfers because the kit transfers looked a bit ropey and didn't include a sharkmouth(!) and was a bit dismayed to find the kit didn't include any external stores either which meant I promptly spent twice what I had paid for the kit on Eduard resin bombs (Mk.82, Mk.83, Paveway II and HoBoS, if I recall correctly). I'm not sure if the aircraft would have carried all these stores at the same time but the model is for a 14-year old so I reasoned moar dakka. Thanks to Jamie at Sovereign Hobbies for sorting me out the colours (ACUS03 Light Ghost Gray and ACUS40 Dark Ghost Gray) - the kit instructions show a much greater contrast between the two greys (grays) but this is for clarity, the real colours are pretty hard to tell apart - not quite as hard as my photos indicate but that is my fault. Anyway it's my first completion of the year, here it is: Cheers, Stew

Im in with a Lizard A10A from Tamiya in 1/48. This is an old kit, with raised panel lines and unrealistic armament - I will look for references, raid the spares and other kits for appropriate weaponry... As you can see, I bought this 'partially started' from Evil Bay - can I ask Mods for the to confirm its wellunder the 25% mark - I will need to start again anyways.. I have some aftermarket decals from XtraDecals to build an A10A based out of RAF Bentwaters/RAF Woodbridge - these were always seen around East Anglia growing up in the early 80's in their cool lizard scheme. I often went to Bentwaters as a youngster before joining the Army in 1985, as my dad had a friend serving in the USAFE based there so loads of memories.... Funny thing, 21 years later A10C's saved my and some colleagues bottoms a few times in Helmand (along with GR7/9s !) and they are still going strong - formidable weapon with that great sound when it fires over you.....Brrrrrrp..... Brrrrrt.... More Brrrrt... Low level fun from the titanium bathtub!

The new set to upgrade "old" 1/48 A-10 models to modern standards and improve overall accuracy of them. The set is shown here on Hobby Boss model. Pics have high level of magnification.

Hey, I'm new to these forums I was looking online for an A10 'Hog' (1/48) to add to my stash, but came across five or so different models. They all seemed to have their good and bads (e.g. no detail; no access panels; bad decals etc...). I have no idea which one to get. Money is not an issue, and I want to model it being heavily maintained, therefore, I want as many access panels as possible. If the engine's cowling can be opened, then a detailed engine would be nice. I also want a detailed cockpit. I don't care what the decals are like because I will probably get aftermarket ones. Please can any of you give your opinion on which model is best. Please link any detail sets (e.g. engine or cockpit) for one in your answer. Thanks )

Hi folks,been quietly doing the Hobbyboss A10 "easy" kit for a couple of weeks while waiting for parts to dry on other projects. I am not really a "modern" aircraft builder and the last A10 I built was Matchbox,s kit when it was brand new.I have no idea how accurate this kit is but fit of parts was superb(only eight parts make the complete airframe) and the panel lines were some of the best I have come across from any maker.many thanks for looking.

Hi everyone! I finished this one a while ago, but have not yet presented it to the Britmodeller readership. It's the Revell (Italeri rebox) A-10A, that was built under a strong influence of 'A-10s over Kosovo' book. While A-10 is in my top 3 US aircraft list, it is said to see so many A-10 models built with totaly unrealistic loadouts. In this case, I replicated the warload as it was on that fateful day, including the empty Maverick rail. For more photos and full story (I bet you are wandering what's with the green engine pod), click on the below photo. Thanks for watching!

Here are the final pictures.. hope you enjoy them. For the build look here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234931114-148-oa-10a-thunderbolt-ii-callsign-sandy/ And for all your comments, good or bad.. Shoot! Guess this on is really my favourite..