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Found 1,665 results

  1. Bf.110C-2/C-7 Photo-Etch & Mask Sets (for Revell 04961) 1:32 Eduard Revell's recently re-released boxing of the excellent Dragon kit got the once-over from us here not too long ago, and very nice it was too. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail beyond what styrene is capable of in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Interior C-2 & C-7 (32950 & 32951) Two frets are included in each set, one nickel plated and pre-painted, the other in bare brass. The bare frets only differ in their numbering, while the plated and painted frets have subtle differences in the main instrument panel. A complete set of new layered instrument panels and side consoles are the primary parts on the painted set, with new rudder pedals; throttle quadrant; gun-sight with a small slip of clear acetate; additional instrumentation; canopy internal structure and magazine grab-handles also supplied. The C-7 set has the extended panel to the lower edge, plus a set of additional instrument front for the radio cluster. Bf.110C-2 Interior (32950) Bf.110C-7 Interior (32951) Seatbelts STEEL (33225) In case you don't already know, these belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. The set can be used for both sub-types, and include crew belts for all three seats with only the pilot getting a four-point harness, the other two getting lap-type belts. The pilot also benefits from separate comfort pads under the buckles. Exterior C-2/C-7 (32443) This larger bare brass set contains some important upgrades such as additional structure and skin parts for the main landing gear bays; a more in-scale D/F loop for the spine; bracing straps between each fin of the C-2's bombs; brake hoses; four realistic hinge-points for each of the main gear bay doors along with end-detail and the delicate links of the retraction mechanism. Finally, the twin-tails are each given trim-tab actuators to replace the chunky moulded-in representations. Masks Tface (JX238) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape and arriving in a larger ziplok bag due to the size, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of interior and interior canopy masks tailored to fit the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. This will be especially useful if you are using the interior set above, as you will have some additional detail to show off in there by the time it comes to painting. If you're closing up the canopy however, you can also just get the external masks that will still make the job easier. Tface Masks (JX238) External Canopy Masks (JX237) Review sample courtesy of
  2. @Stephen started his GB build thread for a Beaufighter VII using markings from a Blackbird Models sheet, Operation Overlord Pt:1. I noticed markings for a Lysander were also on that sheet. With Eduard's reboxing of the Gavia plastic in my stash, and a quick trip through the ether to Sprue Brothers to secure that decal sheet, I'm ready to begin! While I originally bought the kit for the 309 Squadron (Polish) markings shown on the box art, this GB is an even better topic. This kit is the Gavia plastic with new bits from Eduard, including the instructions and decals shown here. And here are Eduard's PE, resin, and masks Gavia's plastic and Fair warning, it will be something of a record if I do complete within this GB's span. BTW, living in Southern California, a mag 6.4 earthquake hit about 180 mi NE of me (near NAWS China Lake) as I sat down to start this thread. As of this moment, the largest shock was 6.4, with 45 fore- and after-shocks so far. Given the distance, the temblor was felt as a rolling motion in my home, causing hanging fixtures to gently sway.
  3. And my dad dares a new attempt on a WW1 biplane. DSC_0012 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
  4. I've tried to make pictures in a descriptive way. Thus, very little text. In case of questions, just let me know! For future builders of this kit, here’s a list of improvement- and awareness points regarding the Airfix- and Eduard-parts. Safe a few exceptions, this advice merely regards the Airfix Dornier 17z + aftermarket specifically. The mentioned numbers are the paragraphs in this topic where the issues are discussed. Everything is treated chronologically, in the order of my findings. Please note that every modeller is in charge of his or her own build; everything is possible, nothing is obligatory... the hereunder is solely meant as help for those modellers who want to build this magnificently moulded Airfix-set. #0: plan well ahead. Personally I don't follow the instructions' order. Biggest deviations except those discussed hereunder: picture 32 -> exhaust will be fixed only after airbrushing and decalling the plane. Pictures 34-37: the engine will only be fixed after airbrushing & decalling. Picture 38: first, sand thin and prepare for priming. Eventually, the engine will be pushed inside those and the subassembly will be fixed to the wing. It's absolutely necessary though to fix the engines. Pictures 69-74: the glass and the MG15s are fixed before airbrushing the body. #2: the ribs of the upper flaps are best broken off and then glued in place. #4: mind that the upper flap is fitted perfectly, it's a very tight fit. Take great attention when using CA, something I really don't advice. #19: remove inexplicably moulded plastic from the MG15s. #23: put photo etch on, and paint, all MG15-cartridges. In Airfix' instructions, no less than 21 are forgotten... same with Eduard, most cartridges are forgotten. #25: mind a possibly twisted beam near the pilot seat, correct this before you won't be able to reach it. #29: before curving the oxygen pressure thingy, make the fold first. #36: on this picture you see that I ignored picture 6 of the Airfix-manual. This is not my original idea; I read it in another build report of this model. Picture 6 is utopia. position part C8 as a sandwich, whilst combining the two fuselage halves... #43: dryfit everything thoroughly, especially the rear seat. With my Dornier the legs weren't far enough apart. #45: thin the instrument panel. #46-49: make the instrument clock housings, in case you want to 'busify' the front side (those housings will be very well visible from the front). #71-74 (after #52-61): make a step plan before tackling a bomb rack. And do yourself a favor purchasing a bottle of Gator Glue (not being "Gator's Grip glue"). #67: with the 50KG-bombs: make slits into the plastic, don't stick the PE fins toegether. Alternatively: soldering. #69: connect wires to the instrument clocks. #75: thin the bomb bay doors (even if you won't use photo etch). #78: consider removing the ejector pin marks in the bomb bay (especially if the bomb racks are not used). #80: with the pilot's seatbelts, ignore the fold lines of the upper buckles. #85: mind the ejector pin marks topside of the bomb bay. #90: the MG15s are opportunely replaced by metal or resin upgrades. #90: choose well if the cockpit should be painted in RLM02 or RLM66. See the discussion about this at the beginning of this topic. #104: don't trust the stickiness of self-adhesive Eduard photo etch parts. Always add glue, to prevent parts from sagging of falling off after six months. You won't be able to repair it then. #106: use oil paint to improve realism of the Eduard panels (glittering + color) within seconds. #107: the front side seat can't be fixed on the attachment points. Use CA-glue as a bridge. #112: I found out the fuselage was warped. It's so important to check this out, the whole build success depends on straightness of the fuselage. Warped fuselage = wrongly placed wings etc. etc. #127: nacelles PE: glue 'the lid' together with a small L-piece. #129: nacelles PE: sand 'the lid' at the front, otherwise it won't fit. #130: nacelles PE: ignore the gap. #132: thin the walls. #136: nacelles PE: do a lot of dryfitting, don't use CA for fixing. The positions as suggested by Eduard, are incorrect. #140: thin the side walls of the engine. Not only because it's more realistic, also because otherwise the engine won't fit. #146: be extremely careful when cleaning the plastic of the landing gear. #152: don't glue the PE-doors of the landing gear houses to the plastic. Instead, throw the plastic in the spare box. Scratch some brass 'hinges'. Just as easy, much more realistic. #155: drill the exhausts. #171-182: consider vacuforming the glazing. #189-191: make the hinges for the landing gear doors. #196: prime + RLM02 attention point! #198: prime + RLM02 attention point! #200-202: make up your own mind as to what kind of weathering is realistic and desirable on 1/72 scale. #211: priming + RLM02 attention point! #212: priming + RLM02 attention point! #213: use the Eduard-mask as template for an inside-mask. #216: priming + RLM66 (or RLM02) attention point! #219-220: add wire for operating the bomb bay doors, e.g. Uschi van der Rosten wire + Gator's Grip glue. #238: correct a moulding deficiency to the vertical stabilizers by some simple sanding. #239-245: correct the position of the landing gear, using a small intervention. #246: place and remove the landing gear parts by only touching the three spots mentioned in this paragraph, to prevent fracture. #Future: add hinges to the flaps, so that they can be connected to the wings. #Future: airbrush glass beneath gondola RLM66 internally. #Future: airbrush front RLM66. #Future: airbrush glazing above bomb bay RLM02 (from above). #Future: thin mudguards. #Future: resin wheels. #Future: thin pitot tube. #Future: scratch FuG12 dipolar antennas. #Future: covers for side-MG15s. #Future: antenna wire with ceramic insulators. Really enjoying this build thus far. Airfix's kit is of great quality. Eduard's photoetch is not the easiest I've done but is, eventually, doable. Bit of scratch involved but not much. Should be a moderately fast build, especially compared to my other builds. A lot of pictures in this first post, follow-ups will be less picture-heavy. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 11. 12. The parts to the right of the arrow will all be positioned within the green circle. 13. 14. 15. 16. The strength of Gator Glue (not Gator's Grip, which is sometimes incorrectly referred to as Gator Glue): 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. Airfix as well as Eduard's instructions feature way too few MG15 drum lids & ties to be positioned. Fortunately there are reasonably enough specimens on the fret. The arrows point out the positions of all the drums. They are not equally easily recognizable as such in plastic. 25. Repairing deformation of a port side part: 26. 27. 28. 29. 29. 31. 32. 33. Scratching one of 3 oxygen regulator boxes, after having spent an hour looking for a finished PE version: 34. 35. 36. After glueing in place the scratched oxygen regulator, guess what I see... probably had been stuck underneath something. Quickly swapped pieces. 37. 38. 39. 40. Dryfit is always important... 41. Impressive, Airfix! 42. 43. 44. 45. 46. 47. Template for making instrument houses: 48. 49. 50. Macro pictures are often very handy to correct my work. Such as the instrument house lower left corner, 2nd from the right. 51. 52. 53. 54. 55. 56. Difficult to bend photo etch part. 57. 58. 59. 60. 61. Don't follow Eduard's instructions re. the bomb rack. In a further post I'll specify a better order. 62. And don't follow Eduard's dreamy bomb construction philosophy either. First I'll show a few failed specimens. Changes: don't glue the fins to each other + use a knife + razor saw to make 4 incisions into the plastic. Put Gator Glue in those slits and then clean with thumb (except the slits). Put the photo etch in place and use Eduard's cross template. 63. 64. 65. 66. Even after taping... ugly glue residue. 67. Finally! Revenge on Eduard! 68. 69. 70. Dryfit: click this short vid. Total spent time till now: 32 hours.
  5. F-14D Ejection Seat (648471) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Tamiya's new(ish) F-14D in 1:48 is the current high-water mark for the modeller in quarter scale in terms of quality and finish, but moulded-in detail can always be improved in by resin parts due to their flexible moulds and ability to render the finest of details with deep undercuts. This set does just that for the focal point of almost every F-14D, the cockpit. As usual with Eduard's resin sets, they arrive in the new Brassin cardboard box, with the resin parts bagged inside along with the instructions and another bag full of Photo-Etch (PE) and decals. The Tomcat is a two seater, and both SJU17A NACES seats (AKA Martin-Baker Mk.14) are supplied in the set with additional resin parts for the canopy breakers, seat cushion, umbilical, and a full set of pre-printed PE seatbelts, pull-handle and leg restraints. The instructions include painting guide with Gunze Mr Color call-outs, and after main painting the stencil decals are applied for the ultimate in realism. The seats are identical, so applying the seatbelts in a slightly different pattern will assist with realism, giving the impression that the crew have just departed for the mess. Conclusion The most visible aspect of the cockpit is the seat, so unless you're planning on putting pilots in your model, this is one of the easiest and most effective methods of giving your Tomcat a little extra zing. Review sample courtesy of
  6. Eduard leaflet for May: http://www.eduard.com/store/out/media/distributors/leaflet/leaflet2016-05.pdf change digit in link for older issues
  7. Hi everyone, I'm here for you after a long time to model in a physical and not a virtual way. This kit is this And the camo will be this, that even if not British, intrigues me the fact of playing with the contrast of the desert camo very faded with the new color of the American insignia and the cancellation of the original ones It will be an OOb since in the package you will find everything you need to pull out a detailed model and then I don't want to go crazy in super detail that disappears when the fuselage will closes. The level of detail in the kit is very high. But let's get to the cockpit. As said the plastic details are very satisfying and the small PE plate enriches the pit very well I've used the PE dashboard 'causethe decal was used in an other prj. below are some photos of the fundamental steps: I started with a very contrasted preshading with a dark gray for the shadows and a light gray + white for the zones in the view of the little light that penetrates a closed fuselage. The seat has received a red brown vallejo for the structure and oil colors for the cushion (mars black; naples pink yellow and white for reflections). The pit construction did not present any problems, the pieces fit perfectly, the only poetic license the area behind the seat is painted in aluminum thanks to a photo of a restored spit and perhaps not entirely faithful to the original as the area should be too in green, but all in all I don't feel sorry for which I kept it like this (you will see very little). Ok stop talk and let's go whit the pictures Closing fuselage and wings. I noticed a real remarkable work by Eduard in the design of the cuts of the pieces and the precision of the joints; practically there is almost no need for putty except for a couple of points in the wing fitting where I scratched too much to remove the sprue and a couple of my mistakes, everything went in place without problems. Here are the self-explanatory pictures For now it's all and as usual CCC (criticisms, comments and compliments) always welcome. Until next time
  8. In the Czech Modelforum it's mentioned that after the 1/48th MiG-21, Spitfire and Bf.109 families, Eduard has as long term project the North American P-51 Mustang in the same scale. Wait and see. Source: http://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=68170&start=5865 V.P.
  9. Hey! I'm really sorry for not posting anything for a while.... I finished Eduard's spitfire with ton's of extras. If you are interested, here is the Build log, but I think you are more interested in seeing photos of the finished build. Some of You might have noticed that this build was published in Meng Air Modeller. Here they are, enjoy!
  10. I bought another Eduard F6F-5 from @Duncan B a while ago. I didn't bother with any PE this time, so just used an Ultracast seat in the cockpit and tried to do a passable paint job. Due to lack of skill in painting instruments, I did buy @airscale's 1/48 US Navy instrument decals As with the last Eduard F6F I built, I sawed out and thinned down the cowl flaps for what is, in my opinion, a much enhanced appearance for very little effort and no cost. The kit parts have the cowl flaps the full thickness of the cowl piece so even closed they don't look like cowl flaps. It was bought with the intention of making a very ubiquitous ANA623 Glossy Sea Blue US Navy example as seen pretty much everywhere in the Pacific from 1944 to 1945. The trouble is that ANA623 was pretty good paint and therefore most of the stuff modellers do to models such as pre or post shading, panel line washes etc is wholly inappropriate for such an aircraft. Then again, we can't be having a solid, featureless finish because the real aircraft didn't look like that either. I decided to try mimicking the stressed skin appearance of a real aircraft to try to get similar light reflections from a glossy finish. Out with the paint mule! I cut narrow strips of masking tape. The Infini cutting mats made short work of that and got all strips consistent. I gave it two light coats with Halfords grey aerosol primer The tape was removed and I gave it a go over with an Infini 1500grit sanding sponge, the aim being to knock all the corners off and smooth the humps a bit. I then gave it a fairly heavy coat (in many very thin passes) of Colourcoats ACUS34 ANA623 Glossy Sea Blue this morning. This has had a polish with Infini 2500 and 4000 grit sponges and looks like this: Overall, and with more work with the 1500 grit prior to top coat, I feel somewhat positive about it and have decided to go for it. This may take some time! All comments / feedback welcome!
  11. Being first in I claim this STGB in the name of the Colonies! I have been waiting a while for this one to come, a chance to reduce the stash by a miniscule (it’s about to be re-filled) and a chance to add another RAAF beast to the collection and finally to build something I haven’t built before. So enter Eduard’s (Hasegawa) Limited Edition 1/32nd Warhawk P-40N……in a ridiculously huge box!!! There’s no photo’s of that as it was the first thing to go! Now in a smaller box with all the non-required parts removed, takes up way less space. I must say it does look to be beautifully moulded with nice fine details……. ……being a Eduard re-box it comes with some nice basic goodies…… ……plus a ridiculously huge decal sheet as well! Why not just do it in two sheets I don't know, it'd make storing them safely so much easier….. …… and finally being a Limited Edition release it comes with these “extras”, a poster of the cover picture along with an embossed metal plate with raised detail in all the right places!!! Is that it…..nup, it wouldn’t be a trickyrich build without some extras ………. ….Eduard’s love new Zoom series IP and Master Model Gun Barrel & Detail set. Finally the scheme, for me it couldn’t be anything else than a RAAF P-40, we used around 840 of them and they were an incredibly important aircraft for us during the war and played a critical role in some battles. So I’ll be using a lovely set of Ventura Decals for a RAAF P-40N Kittyhawk Mk.VI. The actual aircraft is “Watch my form”, a 79 Squadron P-40N-15 A-29-572 off Noemfoor Island (a tiny island just of West Papua) around late 1944. Here is an extract from the ADF Serials website for this particular aircraft; (this is from the decal sheet......... hmmm I wonder what the "Pink Highlights" are they're talking about!! ) served with 80 Sqn and 78 Sqn; on 10/2/44 received by 80 Sqn from 15 ARDRP; on 13/6/44 received by 78 Sqn from 22 RSU where it had gone for an engine change from 80 Sqn; on 19/8/44 while dodging ack-ack fire over the target the starboard wing struck a tree with P/O Richard Roy Cowley (405834) flying it home without further incident; on 13/9/44 received back at 78 Sqn from 22 RSU; on 8/1/45 it crashed while W/O Geoffrey James Bellamy (432737)was taking off at Wama strip Morotai when it blew out the port tyre and at the time was coded HU-P and had inherited the nose art of "Watch My Form"; on 15/1/45 approval was given to convert to components. I’m looking forward to this one, it should be a nice simple straightforward build for me for a change. One final interesting fact, Flt. Lieutenant Clive Caldwell (formally Group Captain) RAAF was the highest scoring P-40 pilot form any air force, 22 victories, he finished the war on 28.5.
  12. After the MiG-15 (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234923484-eduard-mig-15-172-first-sprues/?hl=%2Beduard+%2Bmig-15), Eduard is to release a 1/72nd MiG-15bis "Fagot-B" kit - ref.7056 Source: https://www.facebook.com/EduardCompany V.P.
  13. B-24 Photo-Etch Update Sets (for Hobby Boss) 1:32 Eduard If you didn't see the release of the massive 1:32 Consolidated B-24J Liberator from Hobby Boss earlier this year, where were you? We reviewed it here, and we'll wait for you while you go and have a look. Eduard's new range of sets are now here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's larger Photo-Etch (PE) sets, they arrive in a flat resealable ziplok package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Bomb Bay (32440) This is a big kit, so get used to the fact that the frets are big too. This set comes on one large fret dedicated to structure that is missed out from the kit, and will probably be used in conjunction with the bomb bay racks below. Each end of the bay is heavily modified with new skins to the bulkheads, additional stiffening beams along the floor, plus a host of other small parts, pulleys, even some equipment boxes. Bomb Racks (32441) This set contains a single large fret with additional details for the kit bombs, and of course the large ladder-shaped racks that hold those bombs ready for deployment. These are highly detailed and will be a much better replacement to the simplified kit parts. Undercarriage (32437) The big bays of the Liberator are quite visible due to their size and the shoulder-mounted wing, so any detail is easily seen. This set is based on two frets, and includes mirror-image parts to detail the bays with many skins to replace the chunkier moulded-in kit detail, plus the visible portions of the wing's structure itself. Large ribs are added in addition to the kit ribs, which give the bays much more visual interest. The gear legs don't escape, with small tie-down lugs added at the base of each leg, and an optional hub cap that fits over the detailed wheel hubs that were often worn in service by these chunky warriors. Engines (32438) The Liberator was powered by four P&W Twin Wasp engines, with the kit portraying them as back and front banks either side of a bulkhead to prevent a see-through cowling. Detail is adequate for a brief glimpse, but a little more detail is provided in this set, especially at the rear of the nacelles where there are missing details, including a splitter panel and a boxed-in screen that protrudes at an angle from the hollow rear of each nacelle. You'll need to remove the moulded-in version of this beforehand, but the resulting difference is substantial. Small flaps on the sides of the plate allow easy attachment of the assembly to the nacelle halves. Around the supercharger part there are some additional detail parts added around the recess, plus a protective flip-open cover for the exhausts and more wiring harnesses for the rear piston bank. Big Ed Set (BIG33103) The Bomb Bay, Bomb Racks and Undercarriage sets are also available in the Big Ed set with a discount that will assist anyone vacillating over whether to get all three or not. Review sample courtesy of
  14. This weekend at the E-Days 2013 the box art picture from the Eduard's future 1/48th Messerschmitt Bf.109 G-6 kit. Source: http://www.master194.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=78075. V.P.
  15. Eduard has just announced 1/48th MiG-23MF "Flogger-B" & MiG-3ML "Flogger-G" in Czechoslovak service. New tool? That's the question. Frankly I hardly imagine Eduard reboxing the Trumpeter's MiG-23 kits. But who knows. If they're new tool and from the same barrel as their 1/48th MiG-21 "Fishbed" Source: https://scontent.fbru2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22382055_1823842124297393_5421894630712582162_o.png?oh=3b46bbc2e5e4abf84b990a1a4b7b5aba&oe=5A403F00 V.P.
  16. Hello, Thought I'd start building something a bit more relaxing after the Flanker, so at the Moson show in Hungary I've bought this beautiful eduard's kit - with all the extras. I am planning to build it as opened as possible - engine, cockpit, radio, gunbays, misc. panels and so on. So, starting with the cutting, cleaning and thinning all the resin bits and pieces and dryfitting them over and over again. So, this is my Moson show loot, most of the parts here are for Spit. Too much of them really... So, brassin radio compartment with Aires cockpit test fitted... brassin parts just slot into the position, they fit the eduard kit perfectly. And Aires gunbays (just dryfitted, not glued yet) I think I will thin the plastic a bit more...
  17. USN Radar of WWII Eduard 1:350 This single sheet set of relief etched brass continues Eduards policy of releasing useful sets to add detail to parts of a model that seems to be forgotten. This set, for US WWII Radars is really quite comprehensive. The radars included are:- CXAM Early made up from only two parts, but needs a piece of styrene rod for the base. YE Aircraft homing beacon, also made from two parts and requiring a styrene pole to be fixed on. Mk3 Main battery fire control radar, made from five parts and also requiring the styrene base. 2 x Mk4 Secondary battery fire control radar, made from eight parts. SC-1 Surface search radar array, made from nine parts and utilises the kit base. CXAM-1 Surface search radar made from twenty five parts and requires a styrene base. SC-2 Surface search radar array, very complex twenty two piece unit which uses the kit base and transmitter probe. 2 x Mk22 Height finding radar for detecting low flying aircraft, made of three parts and a piece of styrene rod to attach it to the Mk4 or a Mk12 director array. 2 x Mk12 Secondary fire control radar, a seven piece unit which requires some complex folding and shaping. Fitted to the top of a Mk37 director from 1944 onwards. Conclusion This is a very useful set as it covers the entire selection of radar arrays used throughout the war. All you have to do is carefully build each array and fit to your model. Of course you will need to do some research to determine what array was fitted when on your particular subject. Review sample courtesy of
  18. I have to say first of all this was one of the nicest models I've built for a while, it really was Hasegawa (Eduard re-box) at their very best. Now the sad bit is that they are (the P-40N) no longer in production and what few that are out there command frightening sums! She was built for the Curtiss P-36/-70/-40 STGB and I thought it would be a slowish build but once started I couldn't help myself. So in little over 2 weeks she was done, a real testament to just how nice this model was and how well she goes together. The only extras were Eduard's new Zoom Instrument Panel and Master Model's Gun Barrel set. The decals were from Ventura and are easily some of the best out there, they were just some nice to use. Thanks for looking and lease enjoy. Model: Eduard 1/32nd Curtiss P-40N Warhawk Paint: Mr Paint Lacquers plus Tamiya & Mr Hobby Acrylics, Model Master Metalizer Lacquer Extras: Eduard Zoom Instrument Panel Master Model P-40E-N detail set Ventura decals – AVG & RAAF P-40M & N’s The build is dedicated to the pilots and ground crew of 78 Squadron RAAF.
  19. I have a nasty habit of doing WIPs and never showing off the end result, so for the first time, an RFI. the kit was the Eduard 1/48 dual combo P-39 Airacobra Bella. this has the privilege of being my first and second Eduard build. Paints used were mainly Mr Hobby for all major external surfaces, with details being either Vallejo or Tamiya. Apart from things like exhaust stacks, all applied with the airbrush. This was also my first attempt at weathering, though restricted to pre-shading and some exhaust and radiator staining. I found the kit to be challenging as some parts were not clearly defined on the instructions and the lack of locating lugs on the fuselage made alignment tricky whilst holding all the internals together. One improvement I would recommend would be to include an idea of nose weight. I added a 5g wheel trim weight plus six ball bearings to each airframe which just about was enough provided the wheels were glued in exactly the right position. Still, they didn't sit on their asses. On with the pictures. Thanks for looking.
  20. Time to stress myself out a little and go in a different direction, East. This is going to push me a bit further along the line of learning as there are going to be a number of firsts here. 1) Something in Russian service 2) Something that has a lot of etch 3) Two kits at the same time 4) A first attempt at weathering what is going to cause all this? Bella I made a start by opening the box, deciding it was too much and putting it back in the cupboard. I then made a second start by opening the box, unwrapping the sprues and washing everything. So, what is in the box? A glossy instruction sheet Some packets containing etch, A soddin' great decal sheet (the most hateful part for me) 2 sprues for the wings 2 for odds and sods 2 fuselages 2 clear sprues and some masks. quite a bit to get my hands on as they say. As I have not made anything other than factory fresh finishes I will have to decide how to approach a war weary look. A bit of time on you tube may be in order for this one. Hopefully a start will happen this week, mainly with pre painting the cockpit bits before sticking things together.
  21. So..... I'm a serial starter. I have like 12 kits being worked on.... Send help..... I bought this kit at the 2019 RIAT, so after a short stay in my stash this kit will be replacing my shelf of doomed Airfix Fw190 A-8. Anyway, on with the build! The parts It's hard to believe how many parts there are in a kit in this scale. This is my first Eduard kit, and it looks like I'll be buying more if my mind survives this build. I also gave a Spitfire to do somewhere in the stash. Detail is insane Nice clear parts. Interestingly, they're quite different from the Airfix kit, which I'll post comparisons to later. And the bane of my model existence. This is why I will go insane building this... Photoetch. The cockpit First of the etch parts on, probably never to be seen again once the fuselage is sealed up. Having added all the unpainted etch parts, I painted the cockpit tub in RLM 66 grey. Prepainted instrument panels were then added. Because the carpet monster keeps trying to eat all the parts and I keep on misplacing photoetch, I made a photoetch square where all those parts are put. Seatbelt time... I don't know what I did wrong, but when the seatbelts are attached the seat didn't fit at all... I ended up trimming down the etch parts to make it fit. The stick was added and the cockpit tub was complete
  22. Just a quick post to say, we have a few of the new Eduard Mustang's left in stock if anyone is interested! Our price £31 + Post - hurry before there's none left! Follow the link below to order https://mjwmodels.co.uk/edk11134-148-north-american-p-51d-mustang-chattanooga-choo-choo-6914-p.asp thanks Mike
  23. Hello all, Finished bits and pieces yesterday and had a good play with my camera. Comments and suggestions are very welcome: BANANA FOR SCALE: Many thanks!!!
  24. Looked at the GB calender today and remember I said I’d provide a Spitfire here. Hope it’s not too late to join. The raw material: Eduard’s Aussie Eight, probably the nicest kit I have laid my hands on. Here are some of the 32 options: Plenty of teeth on the decal sheet! With so many choices I might have to make the decision simple and use the one with the biggest mouth. Started with painting and the cockpit. More to come later - will have to post separetely, since three times the miserable Iphone has erased my attempts to add more pictures and text. Below the resin parts. The exhaust is from Quickboost - I figured the nice tyres and general level of detail warranted nicer exhaust pipes (drilling out non-circular pipes I am too lazy to do).
  25. Well I made the decision to go for wheels only on the next build. I'm done with tracked AFV's for a bit. I liked this little number, so someone treated me to it for Christmas. Managed to pick up the Eduard PE for £4 on Ebay with free shipping; so why not........ I'm going to keep it simple.....although I'm trying to figure out how if possible to drop a single barrelled 20mm flak piece in the main seating compartment as I've seen done on some Horche 1A trucks on various fronts. But I don't think it's as long wheel based as the Horche....have to see once I get the main upper body together. So, while I'm been left alone this afternoon, I'll crack on with the chassis... Have a good rest of the day chaps. Simon.
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