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The Fieseler Storch (or stork in English) must be familiar to all modellers of WWII aircraft. She was the German liaison plane at practically all the theatres of operation. Fieseler Storch was a real stol plane. With its high-lift wings and fixed slots, it could take-off in about 50 m land within 20 m. In a strong headwind it could almost hover. The Storch was used by many air forces, including the neutral ones like Sweden. Some of their planes were used for rescue operations in Swedish Lapland during the winter of 1944-45. There were a number of refugees that tried to flee from the German troops over the mountains from Norway and Finland. In the freezing conditions and in the almost total darkness of the north they needed to be helped rapidly. I built my Fieseler Storch from an excellent Tamiya kit in 1/48 scale. Building the plane was straightforward and without any problems. The kit provided decals for various German planes including the one that was used to free Mussolini from captivity in Gran Sasso. However, I decided to model one of the above mentioned Swedish rescue planes that the Swedes called Fjällstorkarna or Mountain Storks. I ordered the decals from "Moose republic decals" and the resin skis are from Kora models. Additionally, I used Eduard's photoetches and masks for the multiple windows of the plane. The Swedish camouflage was olive green top and light blue grey bottom. For them I used Tamiya's XF-61 and XF-66 respectively. After having airbrushed the colors I covered the model for the decals with WMS's gloss varnish. Finally, I sprayed it with WMS's satin varnish. For many details I also used Vallejo's and Revell's colours.
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Hello, As my A-144 conversion is on indefinite hold due to a missing canopy (yes, the carpet monster was there although I have no carpets on my workshop floor) I've decided to finalize another project... an Eduard 1/72 Spitfire LF Mk. IXe from "Nasi se vraceji" boxing with some Barssin accesories (cockpit, gun bays, top cowling) and Bronze landing gear legs. With the exception of squadron logo, serial number and some stencils, all markings were painted with custom masks. Comments are welcomed!
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1/72 - MiG-21 Fishbed family project was finally officially confirmed by Eduard http://www.eduard.com/store/out/media/InfoEduard/archive/2015/info-eduard-2015-01CZ.pdf (english version soon) MF, bis and SMT versions expected first
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Another Eduard Bf109 finished! This is the second model from the limited edition Gustav Pt.1 box, which introduced the G-5 and G-6 variants to Eduard's 1/72 range. The first one I built from this box was a stripey Bf109G-5. I've done this one as scheme I from the kit, a 1./JG50 G-6 flown by Alfred Grislawski in September 1943. The camouflage is a typical RLM 74/75 over 76 with mottling. I chose this scheme for the underwing guns, which none of my other 109s have. The kit is fantastic, accounting for a huge variety of different minor variants and provides options for dropped flaps. 14 schemes are included, although 12 of the 14 are variations on RLM74/75 over 76 (in all fairness 2 of those are covered in very heavy mottles). The lack of variety despite there being so many schemes is a little disappointing but you can always go with aftermarket. In total I've now built 3 of Eduard's 1/72 Bf109, in addition to some other Bf109 kits I've also recently built. With these still in the stash (the Gustav Part 1 box just contains the plentiful spares from this and previous builds), and the G-10 Royal Class kit on its way from Hannants, I've got enough Bf109s to keep me busy for a while! The wip thread is here:
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There's a storm coming ..... Hawker Tempest Mk.V
Keeff posted a topic in Work in Progress - Aircraft
After the success of the Spitfire build, I'm going to stay with the 'winged things' theme with the 1/48 Tempest Mk. V series 1 from Eduard. Pre-flight briefing: At risk of upsetting fans and lovers of all things Spitfire, I have to admit that my favourite WW2 aircraft is the Hawker Typhoon. I like it's 'thuggish' and rugged looks .... it's like a tool made for the job in hand. I acquired the Airfix 1/24 scale Typhoon and added a load of aftermarket and, as much as I'd like to build it, I'm not that confident with aircraft and want to do it justice, so more flying hours are needed, so what better way to add to the log book than with this one? I've added a pilot from CMK and Montex masks, although after the experience of them with the Spitfire, they may not get used! Rather than a specific pilot, I'll be building this as JN735 operated by No. 3 Squadron, based at Newchuch, Kent in June 1944. And here's lies first challenge - invasion stripes! The stencilling looks to be not too bad - less than the Spitfire - until I noticed S47 relating to the 'Amal' fasteners ....... so I counted up on the decal sheet and immediately wished I hadn't. There are over 100 of them! As seems to be the norm, here's the sprue shot: And, as I had some primer in the airbrush, I thought I'd give the fuselage and wings a coat: So, it's time to climb aboard, buckle up and start the engine - the tower has given the green light so lets hope there isn't much turbulence on the coming sorties! Keith ☺️- 34 replies
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My second entry to the GB will be the Z-37A crop sprayer. I suppose it really should be “Give vegetables a chance”, but there was some infamous graffiti on the M25, Chalfont Viaduct saying “Give Peas a chance” which I regularly used to see when I lived in the London area. Hence, I have gone for that. Unfortunately, the graffiti has now been graffitied over 😬 Only 2 sprues which look nice as per the norm with Eduard. There are 4 different schemes three mostly yellow and one red and yellow, so I will probably go for latter TBC. I thought there was a problem with the decals when I first looked as the serial numbers at the bottom look a mess. On further inspection I realised this is to replicate where they have been overpainted. Nice touch Mr Eduard. Six days to go and counting................ George
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Hi 👋 A few pictures of my Syrian Air Force MiG-21MF. This individual was according to sources downed by an Israeli Phantom back in 1982. It’s the Profipack boxing from Eduard, built pretty much OOB. The (excellent) decals are from Afterburner and I added a PJ pilot in the OOB seat. Thanks for looking 😀 Cheers! /Fred
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In the Czech Modelforum it's mentioned that after the 1/48th MiG-21, Spitfire and Bf.109 families, Eduard has as long term project the North American P-51 Mustang in the same scale. Wait and see. Source: http://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=68170&start=5865 V.P.
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Well folks it's about time I posted something so here it is, started this kit a few weeks ago after buying it from our very own Mr P Brickles from ABC Models. Its a nice enough kit but not up to there recent releases, I've used a lot Tamiya filler just to get some of the basic parts together. Whats worse is the nasty sink marks on some of the superstructure parts will will be a real test to hide, I've also came across a few warped parts that will need some TLC to put right. Just waiting now for WEM to release the PE sets and I'll be cracking on! Right some Pix of whats been done so far. This little equipment box has a very nasty sink mark in its center, building a new one from scratch is probably the best move here? The forward bulkhead on my kit was badly warped, its just visible underneath the ski jump, not perfect but once glued should be okay. Some very nice detail, some of the bulkheads do have a lot of ejector pin marks which will be visible close up, this one is very good The lower hull fits very well to the upper waterline area, minimal filler will be required which is good Mines just taped into place as I'm not sure to build as a water line model or full hull??? Another area that requires a fair amount of filler. The goalkeeper system, lovely little part, very nice detail, just needs the canvas gator around the barrel support, nothing too hard to do. The first piece of AM I bought for another USN Ship build....Veteran model SBROC launchers, much better than the kit items, to be fair they are tiny but I had them anyway so I'll use them, one box is enough to provide Lusty with all 8 launchers. I got these from Lucky model in HK $6.59. So far the build has been very enjoyable, shame about the filler required but I'm not too bothered, its a great kit which I'm glad has been kitted. Quality wise its not upto Airfix's new release's, it's more like the old 48th scale Buccaneer/ Hawk quality. I'm sure the kit with the WEM PE set will look stunning, alot of the antenna, sensor fits are not included in the kit but I'm sure that's due to the limitations of injection molding. If you have the space and love modern RN subjects......Get one ! Regards Dan
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Spitfire Mk.IXe ProfiPACK (8288) 1:48 Eduard The Supermarine Spitfire was the mainstay of British Fighter Command for the majority of WWII, in conjunction with the Hurricane during the Battle of Britain, with the Mk.IX being the most popular (with many) throughout the war, seeing extended periods of production with only minor alterations for the role for which it was intended that differentiated between the sub-variants. Originally requested to counter the superiority of the then-new Fw.190, a two-stage supercharged Merlin designated type 61 provided performance in spades, and the fitting of twin wing-mounted cannons with accommodating blisters gave it enough punch to take down its diminutive Butcher-Bird prey. The suffix following the mark number relates to the wings fitted to the aircraft, as they could vary. The C wing was also known as the Universal Wing, and saw extensive use because it mounted two 20mm cannon in each wing, the outer barrel usually covered by a rubber plug. Later in the Mk.IX’s development, the E wing was a strengthened unit intended to carry small munitions under the wings, and could carry two .50cal machine guns instead of four .303 guns of the previous designs, increasing the punch delivered to the target. The main gear was adjusted in an effort to give it more stable landing characteristics, and bowed gear bays removed the need for blisters on the upper wing surface, helping aerodynamics. The gun mounts were redesigned to need smaller blisters in the wing tops to accommodate the feeder motors, and there was even more room for fuel than earlier wings. Lastly, the wings were able to have longer elliptical or shorter clipped tips fitted, the resulting shorter wingspan giving the aircraft a faster roll-rate that would be especially useful in low-altitude combat. The Kit This new boxing of the later 1944 variant of the Mk.IX with the stronger E wing arrives in a gold-themed ProfiPACK box with a painting of a triumphant Spit in the midst of a sprawling dogfight, fresh from a victory over a hapless Bf.109. inside the box are four sprues of blue-grey styrene, a circular clear sprue, a pre-painted nickel-plated fret of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, a sheet of pre-cut masking material (not pictured), two decal sheets that are split between markings and stencils, and the instruction booklet that is printed in colour on glossy white paper, with profiles for the decal options on the rearmost pages. Detail is up to Eduard’s usual standard with engraved panel lines and fine rivets over the surface, adding PE details to the cockpit to improve detail there, and a wide range of decal options to choose from. Construction begins with the cockpit, which will probably be familiar to most, although there is a huge amount of detail when it’s done the Eduard way. It is built up on the starboard sidewall insert, with equipment, controls and a seat-carrying frame. The seat is next, having the seldom-used flare rack as an option at the front added from PE, optional PE head-armour, as well as pre-painted PE seatbelts and rear armour under the triangular head armour. The control column is also made up, and has a PE trigger added before it and the four-part flight control box (more of a tangle, really) are joined by the seat and inserted in the next two fuselage frames forward. The next frame forward holds the instrument panel, which can be made from plastic with decals, or a more realistic and detailed lamination of PE parts with convincing glossy dial faces on a separate backing plate, either of which then glue onto the frame, adding the gunsight with PE details at the top of the panel, and the compass with PE or decal dial just below, then the rudder pedals are put just inside the footwell below the panel. Forward of that frame is an arrowed blanking plate that is glued in place along with the spinner back during the fuselage closure procedure. The socket for the tail wheel and the leading edge of the wing fairing are also glued in, drilling a 1mm hole in the port side. Posing the canopy open will require small parts of the sidewalls removing to accommodate the appropriate glazing, so make sure you cut those parts off as necessary. The lower wing is a single part that stretches as far as the wingtip attachment joint would be, and there are two pairs of 1mm holes that need drilling out on both undersides if you plan on hanging stores under the wings before you go any further. A tiny portion of the landing gear bay surround is shaved away for some decal options, which is shown in red to assist with accurate cutting of the styrene. A long wing spar bridges the gap between the wheel bay cut-outs, then the rest of the bay walls are made from short sections and just the two outer wing-gun barrels per side are dropped into their slots ready for closure, placing the fuselage into the gap and gluing it home. The empennage is next, with separate two-part elevator fins and a full-span flying surface, plus a choice of rudder styles and its control link that trap the elevators in position with the aid of a pair of inserts, allowing them to deflect if you wish. This boxing has a separate pair of cowling parts that should be glued together with the aid of tabs moulded into the joint that should help keep it strong once the glue has cured. It is glued over the nose after inserting the exhaust stubs into the slots on either side of the cowling. Back to the wings, and the elliptical tips or clear clipped alternatives (depending on your decal choice) are slotted into place along with the ailerons, the latter you can pose deflected if you wish. Staying with the wing, the model is flipped over, so that the radiators, and chin intake with fairing can all be installed, adding L-shaped feeder pipes at the rear, and a flap with actuators for open and closed positions, assisted by scrap diagrams that illustrate the layout from the side. The narrow track landing gear struts have PE scissor-links and captive doors attached to the rear, removing the flat peg at the top of the door, and wheels that are made up from a tyre and a choice of two styles of outer hub parts and a common inner hub, using a split yoke and wheel for the tail, which slides into the socket buried within the fuselage earlier. The 20mm cannon parts simply slot into their sockets in the leading edge of the wings, with nice muzzle detail moulded-in and a choice of barrel plug for one decal option, fitting a pitot probe under the port tip. The fixed rear glazing of the canopy is fitted first for the open option, but is moulded into the closed canopy for better fit on a closed cockpit. The cockpit door can be installed open or closed, then an aerial is glued to the rear of the canopy on a tear-drop base. The four-bladed prop is a single part, covered front and back by a two-part pointed spinner, with the peg on the rear sliding into the front of the fuselage. This boxing includes parts for a pair of bombs under the wings, which are made from two halves, two perpendicular fins, and a circular tail. They mount under the wings on shallow pylons and two sway-braces, joined by a pair of PE hooks under the belly, and a long aerial under the starboard wing, drilling a 0.3mm hole to accommodate it in front of the aileron. Markings There are a generous seven decal options for this boxing, most wearing grey/green camouflage over light grey undersides. From the box you can build one of the following: RR201, F/Lt Richard J. Audet, F/Lt John J. Boyle, No. 411 Squadron, ALG B.88 Heesh, The Netherlands, December 1944 RR201, F/Lt John J. Boyle, No. 411 Squadron, ALG B.88 Heesh, The Netherlands, February-April 1945 PV181, W/Cdr Rolf A. Berg, No. 132 Wing, ALG B.79 Woendstrecht, The Netherlands, winter 1944 RK889, S/Ldr Otmar Kučera, No. 313 Squadron, RAF Manston, Kent, Great Britain, May-July 1945 TE517, S/Ldr O. Kučera, No. 313 Squadron, RAF Manston, Kent, Great Britain, August 1945 RK917, G/Cpt Douglas Bader, RAF North Weald, Great Britain, September 1945 2003 (ex TE531), 105. Tajeset, Ramat David AB, Izrael, September 1953 The decals are printed using a digital process and have good registration, sharpness, and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut loosely around the printed areas. This means that the carrier film on their decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier film free, making the completed decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the carrier film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view, and saves a good quantity of precious modelling time into the bargain. Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks (not pictured) deliver a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition, you get a set of wingtip light masks, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Conclusion A welcome reboxing of this important mark of the Supermarine Spitfire, with superb detail that is augmented by PE parts, a wide choice of decal options, and a set of pre-cut masks to simplify painting the canopy. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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Hello, Here's another project of mine. 3 american aircrafts including 1 and a half under british management. Both are early Mustangs with différents armament and of course different wing. 1 MTO, 1 ETO and the last from CBI There's an Accurate min and 2 ICM, serioulsly they're almost identical. The first to be finished, I guess will be the MTO one a P-51A from an US Sqdn on loan to an brit squadron. The colours will be ... Let's say, unusual. One of my favourite game , you both should know the kind of remark "are you sure about the colours ???" I modify the camera rack for 2 of thede Mustang, because, you receive this... And you must have that... So, I cut the brackets, throw away the original support, add an armour plate ( from her cousins ) slightly modified. Add wiring to the camera, That seem promising, there's also lots of sanding but the ICM are worst. I keep on going, modifying the wings according to the 3 different type of early mustang is funny. Thank for watching. Corsaircorp
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I started another Spitfire for my growing collection. This time, it will be photo recon FR Mk IXc in striking PRU pink scheme from 16th Squadron in second half of 1944. Discussion thread: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235146219-spitfire-in-pink-options/ Initially, I planned to paint PR Mk X in this scheme but it turned out that KP decal option is not real, so I decided to convert Eduard Mk IXc (late) into FR. Major change is obviously oblique camera installation. I had to cut round window in a radio hatch, trying to get size and positioning like in the photos. I chose to glue square piece of transparent plastic so I had to thin the hatch significantly. It proven to be quite difficult and I broke the edge of opening in one place forcing me to perform delicate repair. Still I think it was less problematic then other option - trying to fit round window in the hole. It also allowed me to glue strengthening strips one the inside. I also built body of the camera, but it is very crude as only the lens is visible. Next was cockpit, built out of the box with Eduard profipack PEs. Sides of the seat were thinned a bit, I added some wires, oxygen pipe and I decided to move upper part of control column as I glued ailerons slightly offset. Cockpit was painted with Pactra (grey green), Citadel (silver) and Kimmera acrylics (seat and details). Camera lens was painted with Molotov chrome marker.
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Thanks HKR 👍 Eduard worked in secret on a new kit and tomorrow it will be announced 7PM (Warsaw Time) UPDATE - It'll be a family of 1/48th Mitsubishi A6M "Zero" Source: https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=95280&start=33390#p2448351 V.P.
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Good day, This is likely my final submission for the 2024 calendar year. The highlights of this kit are as follows………….. 1. Cockpit : Vallejo RLM 66, Vallejo Black wash, Tamiya Metallic grey ( XF-56 ) dry brushed highlights 2. Airframe : Ammo Atom RLM 74, 75, & 76, Tamiya Rubber Black ( XF-85 ) lower wing, Ammo Medium Gray & Stone Gray wash. 3. Propellers : Vallejo RLM 70, Tamiya Khaki Drab ( XF-84 ) dry brush 4. Landing gear, wheels, & tires : Vallejo RLM 02, Mission Models Tire Black ( MMP-40 ), Tamiya Black ( X-1 ), Tamiya Dark Earth & Metallic Gray dry brush 5. Exhaust : Gunze Burnt Iron, Polly Scale Burnt Aluminum dry brush, Vallejo Light Rust wash 6. Uschi bobbin thread radio wire 7. Built primarily out of the box including kit decals and photo etched seat belts, instrument panels 8. Replaced gun barrels with brass tubes ( 0.06MM ) 9. Weathered with washes, paint, and chalk pastels I had a devil of a time trying accurately replicate Oblt Schnaufer`s complex camouflage pattern. After numerous attempts and to the point of sanding the colors off, I simply went with what I have here. I know it`s not accurate but I wanted to proceed and not give up entirely on the kit. As Eduard products are renowned for, the detail and fit of parts is of the highest quality. Yes, I broke the nose radar antennas on three separate occasions during handling. The radar antenna is a very complicated process to assemble. The profi-pack edition is a must have for this subject as the complex framing of the windscreen poses a significant challenge and the included photo etched parts provide superior detail. The decals are not too thin where they can be handled without the fear of tears but thin enough to settle down nicely with solution. Due to the complexity of the kit, I can only recommend this Bf-110 night fighter to those with more experience. Thank you in advance, Mike
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P-51B/C Seat with Belts Type 2 & 3 PRINT (6481040 & 6481041) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Eduard’s new range of Mustang kits in 1:48 are a sight to behold, pushing injection-moulding technology to achieve exceptional levels of detail, but as with all styrene kits you can always improve by using different media to create key parts. Although these sets arrive in a flat package, the directly 3D printed parts are safe inside a clear plastic clamshell box inside the package, which also has a sticky pad inside to prevent the parts from rattling about. The parts are printed resin, attached to the base via thin tendril-like supports that are easy to cut off and sand the little upstands away, leaving them ready for action. Both seats are printed with integral belts that have a realistic drape to them, with all the furniture present already, and no assembly required, just remove the seats from their bases and sand/cut back the tiny raised marks. Once done, you can go ahead with painting and fitting in the cockpit as a drop-in replacement for the kit seats. There are three styles available, of which we have two today. P-51B/C Seat Type 2 (6481040) P-51B/C Seat Type 3 (6481041) Conclusion Both seats have superb detail moulded-in and simple preparation. Once you’ve painted it, it’ll be a focal point of your model. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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Notwithstanding the fact that I'm building (or butchering should I say?) a couple of Hurricanes, I could not resist starting this new work. First of all I have to say thank you to two benefactors who supported me with a lot of material for this conversion work. Thank you gentlemen (you know who you are!). Last week I was evaluating what will I build with these new assets and now I have a plan. I would like to model a Seafire Mk.46: although a rare bird, I think it is so beautiful with its low-back, huge fin, and contra-prop... I would also like to model a Pr. Mk XIX because I rate it the most elegant Spitfire ever. But first of all I want to model a Mk XII. Some people like this variant the most among the Griffon-engined ones; I like better the long-nose (more appropiately the two-stage-compressor-engined) ones but this variant has a particular charm in being a sort of a "hybrid", being a "rare bird" and even for its war record being employed as a stop-gap against the Fw-190 low-raiders and V1 missiles... ...Thinking about it I feel the same fascination for the very early F Mk.IX which had a similar origin and operational history, or the Mk. VI and VII. There's no perfect Mk.XII kit on the market (that I'm aware of, at least) so add the fashion of a modelling challenge to the above mentioned reasons to build one! Publicly available documents about this variant seem scarce and photo coverage is not abundant too. There are no preserved original Mk.XIIs, and the closest relatives available today as a reference are Seafire Mk XVs which are quite different in many detail. The general shape of the aircraft is well undestood but there are differences in detail between the early-build airframes and later ones; moreover Mk XII has some peculiar elements like the carburettor intake and the magneto hump which are unique in the Spitfire lineage. Fortunately the few existing photographs show rather well these particulars and allow for an accurate reconstruction. Here is the recipe I have in mind for the ultimate 1/72 Mk.XII: Base kit: Eduard Engine cowling and propeller blades: modified Airfix Mk.22 Spinner: modified Airfix Underwing oil radiator: Tamiya or Sword Scale plans: Jumpei Tenma's A lot of work, a little scratch-building The base kit is well known; Eduard's 1/72 Spitfire is a scaled down version of Eduard's 1/48 Spitfire which in turn is a scaled down version of .....(it can't be said openly) which is a 1/32 reproduction of a full-size Spitfire. All of the main features are dimensionally very very close to the data reported in the monumental "Spitfire engineered" book by Montforton; it is the only real "Spitfire looking" 1/72 Spitfire model I'm aware of, together with Airfix Mk.22 incidentally. That 2012 kit still has the best Griffon nose ever produced in 1/72 and is the perfect donor for a conversion work, as many modellers before me discovered. To be honest, both Airfix Mk.22 and Airfix Pr.Mk XIX have a correctly-shaped engine cowling; both kits have small defects in the shape of the cylinder bank fairings: the Mk.22 has them too short at the back, Pr.Mk XIX has an incorrect shape in front (due to the simplified moulding process chosen by Airfix for this kit) AND too short fairings. Correcting the Mk.XIX cowling is much more difficult than adjusting the Mk.22's so the last is a better choice. When asserting that this is the best choice for a Griffon nose in 1/72 I mean the following verified facts: -the profile is accurate within 0,1-0,2mm (or can be easily done so after the careful removal of the moulding burrs) -the width in plan is accurate, and the cross section is just about right (I'll try to have a better look at this in the building process) -the position, shape and angle relative to the thrust line of the cylinder covers appear to be accurate (whitin my measurement capabilities) except for the length in the back. I checked also Sword and Special Hobby products but simply they are not accurate, in particular regarding the shape and position of the cylinder humps and exausts (Sword) or overall cowling shape (SH). The propeller is a very good base for the Mk.XII were not for the fact that it has five blades instead of four... The Spinner assembly results slightly excessive in length (0,4mm) and the baseplate has some peripheral burr so that its diameter is about 10,2mm instead of 9,9mm. This mismatch is easily addressed by some reshaping of the spinner assembly on a lathe. If normally I can't decide which livery put on a particular a/c variant the Mk.XII requires yet another choice from the beginning: fixed tailwheel or retractable tailwheel? I resolved my quandaries choosing the retractable tailwheel variant (although at this moment I've not choosen a particular a/c to represent) Let's begin. The Griffon cowling is separated from the fuselage and compared to a scaled down version of J.Tenma's plans of the Seafire Mk.XVII (he did not trace plans for the Mk.XII or Mk.XV although you can find colorized profiles for them in his website) If your printer does allow just integer percentage scaling of the original (like mine), you can get perfect results by scaling with Inkscape, Photoshop or similar software. Please notice in the photograph above how well the Airfix nose matches the profile; it can be further improved by gentle bending of the upper arch, but this is not necessary for the Mk.XII because of the magneto bulb in that position. The cut is refined until reaching the perfect size, and the process is repeated for the other side. According to this quoted drawing for the Seafire Mk.XV (which is supposedly based on Supermarine data and matches J.T. plans), the "measurable" (I mean with a caliper) lenght of the section is calculated with some easy math: from fuselage datum point to the front of the cowling, at propeller axis: 76,2 inches from fuselage datum point to the upper cowling panel line: 1,28" (source "Spitfire engineered") the front cowling section is a disk, reportedly 28" diameter, inclined 2° to the cowling panel line. This adds 14" x tan(2°) =0,49" to the measurable length so: measurable lenght= 76,2"-1,28"+0,49"=75,41" which in 1/72 converts to 26,60 mm. My result is pretty good!...and was obtained matching the plans, and taking some progressive measurement of the part. One of the key points in getting a precise cut is adjusting the final tenths of mm with the right tool. I use 400-grit sandpaper glued to the side of a square aluminum block, and lay both the nose part and the aluminum block on the same plane, so that the sandpaper results perpendicular to it. Both halves are finished. And now... there's no return! Two perfectly good Eduard Spitfire Mk.VIII fuselages are horribly mutilated!
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L-39ZA Albatros SPACE (3DL72046) 1:72 Eduard Eduard have just re-released their Aero L-39ZA Albatros that we reviewed here, and have also released some new upgrade sets to improve on the detail already moulded into the kit’s parts. Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. To prepare for application of the decals, you need to remove the moulded-in details from the two instrument panels and the four side consoles, which will involve sanding or shaving away the raised components with a sharp blade, taking care not to stab yourself in the process. New 3D printed decals are applied to the instrument panels, ensuring that you use the correct one for front and rear, adding grey sidewall decals over the interior of the fuselage as indicated, and finally fitting four side consoles, two per cockpit to the flat tops that were prepared earlier. The pre-painted and nickel-plated PE parts are used on the ejection seats, and include a full set of four-point harnesses, anti-flail leg straps and pull-handle at the front of the seat’s base, plus equipment and levers that fit to the sides of the base frame. The headbox sides are skinned with two triangular panels, adding a tangle of belts and a handle to the top of the box, representing the drogue ‘chute’s mechanism. This is done in duplicate of course, as the aircraft is a two-seater. It's a huge upgrade to the cockpit detail that offers pre-finished dials and instruments that begs for an open cockpit to show it off. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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Eduard leaflet for May: http://www.eduard.com/store/out/media/distributors/leaflet/leaflet2016-05.pdf change digit in link for older issues
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B-24H Wheels (672380 for Airfix) 1:72 Eduard Brassin We’ve recently reviewed the new Airfix Consolidated B-24H Liberator here recently, and it’s a fine kit. The Kit wheels are in two halves with two more parts for the hubs, which means you have the resultant joins around the circumference to deal with, and limitation to detail due to the moulding limitations of styrene injection technology, especially in the tread department. That's where replacement resin wheels come in, with their lack of seam-line and superior detail making a compelling argument. They are also usually available at a reasonable price, and can be an easy introduction to aftermarket and resin handling, as they are typically a drop-in replacement. As usual with Eduard's smaller Brassin sets, it arrives in a flat resealable package similar to their PE sets but with different branding, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. This set includes four resin wheels on their own casting blocks, a small fret of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, and a set of pre-cut masks on kabuki-style paper washi tape material. The attachment points are on the contact patch of the tyres where they are flattened out due to the weight of the airframe, so it should be straight-forward to cut them free with a razor saw, filing the remainder flush. The detail is exceptional, including diamond tread on the rolling surfaces of the tyres, and hub details are upgraded, although the option of fitting flat PE hub caps will hide the hubs away, but for accuracy’s sake it must be done, unless you don’t want to, of course! There are two nose-wheels, with a choice of eight or nine spoked hubs for you to use after checking your references. Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks provide you with a full set of masks for hubs/tyres, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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Fw.190A Seat w/Integral Belts PRINT (6481038 for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Eduard’s 1:48 Fw.190A kits are well-crafted, but now we have a technology that can create parts with exceptional detail and fidelity that simply makes a drop-in replacement for focal points of the model. Although this set arrives in a flat package, the directly 3D printed parts are safe inside a clear plastic clamshell box inside, which also has a sticky pad inside to prevent the parts from rattling about during shipping and in storage. The parts are 3D printed resin, attached to the base via thin tendril-like fingers that are easy to cut off and sand the remnants away, leaving them ready for action. Consisting of a single part on its own base, the new seat is a direct replacement for the kit part, and has the seat belts and base cushion moulded/printed-in. The belts are naturally draped over the shell of the seat, and due to the technology used in 3D SLA printing, there are gaps engineered where the four-point belts curve around the sides and back of the seat, offering an enhanced realism that improves on previous methods for depicting belts that have gone before. All the supports are located on the rear and underside of the seat shell, so that clean-up will be easy, the modeller simply ensuring that the slightly raised location points are removed where they might be seen or may impinge on proper fitment of the part. Once sympathetically painted, the seat will be a fine focal point of the cockpit of your next Fw.190A project. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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Happy New Year to all friends and my best wishes for personal and family happiness. I wish for everyone, that 2025 will be a good modeling year. Start for 2025, with a kit that remains fresh, despite its years, pleasant to build, interesting historically and visually beautiful. For the construction, in addition to the kit (weekend edition), it is used the very beautiful engine of Eduard, the masks for the hood, 3D printed wheels from EMP, as well as two sets of masks of Armycast for painting the insignia. The construction starts with the cockpit which, although it consists of few pieces, is considered adequate for the scale. The small photo etched set enhances the whole and a good painting (interior green and highlights with various sand and yellow green tones, helps to highlight any raised detail. Thanks for watching!
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Thanks "hawkeye" Tbolt (link) ! Is Eduard to release soon a new tool (?) 1/72nd North American P-51D kit? Let's have a look at page 52 of this month Eduard Info Vol.20 May 2021. Source: https://www.eduard.com/out/media/InfoEduard/archive/2021/info-eduard-2021-05-enrr.pdf V.P.
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B-24J Engines PRINT (6481029 for Hobby Boss) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Hobby Boss followed their 1:32 Liberator last year with a new tooling in 1:48, which was the first in this scale (my preferred scale) since Monogram’s excellent but dated kit from the 1970s, which although it had raised panel lines could be built into a decent replica with help. This new one from Hobby Boss is crying out for super-detailing, and Eduard are making that a possibility. As is usual with Eduard's larger resin sets, they arrive in a Brassin-themed black-and-yellow cardboard box, with the resin parts safely cocooned in bags between two layers of grey foam, and the instructions folded around acting as additional padding. There are two segmented bases containing eight parts in 3D printed resin, four engines and four adapters to ensure a snug fit of the parts on the kit nacelle bulkheads. The engines are attached to their bases via fine support tendrils, which can easily be removed, but take care not to accidentally remove the wiring loom that is engineered into the front face, as they are also fine and could easily be mistaken for more supports. There is a useful scrap diagram in the top-left of the instructions that shows the various wires and push-rods along with painting call-outs in Gunze Sangyo codes, which is Eduard’s preferred brand. Once cut from their supports, the engines should be painted and weathered, followed by fitting the adapter-plate to the rear, and inserting a 6.8mm length of 0.3mm rod from your own stocks into the bell-housing at the front of the motor to act as prop-shaft. That will allow you to hang the kit propellers from the front, but improving the detail a thousand-fold. There are also smaller scrap diagrams that show the removal of a tab from the bottom of the nacelle housings, with the part numbers called out, and the remainder of the tab thinned down to 0.7mm for easy fitting of the new engines. Detail is stunning, and the inclusion of a wiring loom on a twin-row radial will save hours of modelling time trying to get lengths of lead wire to stick somewhere near where they should be without covering the parts and yourself with superglue. VERY highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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So while I’m waiting for Uschi to send me my “wood decals” I’ve decided to build another Eduard Spitfire. This time I’m going to build one of the options from the “Per Aspera ad Astra” dual combo… …this kit offers 12 schemes… I’ve not seen this tri-camo’ version before so I think it'll be an interesting subject… I’m toying with the idea of an “in flight” version, I’ll check my spares box to see if I have ant suitable pilot figures? Next, as “normal”, I’ll be starting with the cockpit until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
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F-4E Parachute (672382 for Fine Molds) 1:72 Eduard Brassin A lot of fast jets land at high speed, and need to slow down in a hurry, especially if they have landed at a shorter runway than usual. They do this by applying the wheel brakes, air-brakes, but also many jets have a parachute pack that they can deploy at the rear to further retard the speed of their aircraft. The ‘chutes don’t go on fire because they’re made from a tough, fire-resistant material, but also because the aircraft’s throttles are either at idle or in reverse, assisting with the braking. The F-4 was designed primarily as a carrier aircraft, where it would usually land using an arrestor hook, which brought it to a halt in a hurry, but that puts a huge stress on the airframe, shortening its lifespan, so is to be avoided when possible. When landing on runways, rather than deploying an arrestor wire, which is specialist equipment that might not always be available, they use parachute packs that are deployed from a compartment within the rear of the aircraft, inflating due to the airspeed, allowing some of the air to bleed through the slots in the material, as they’re intended to slow it down, not pull the tail off. They were used as a matter of course on even the longest runways, although crews were trained on parachute-free landings, just in case. The Set The ‘chutes utilised to slow an aircraft’s roll aren’t excessively large, and at 1:72 scale it fits with room to spare. As is usual with Eduard's larger resin sets, it arrives in a Brassin-themed black-and-yellow cardboard box, with the resin parts safely cocooned in bags, two sheets of protective dark grey foam, and the instructions folded around acting as additional padding. There are five 3D printed resin parts in two separate Ziploc bags, plus a fret of Photo-Etch (PE) brass in another bag with a sheet of white card protecting it from bending in the box. Adding a parachute to your Phantom model will be key to a landing or post-landing taxiing diorama, and the detail is exceptional, even having a flattened edge to the ‘chute where it presses against the runway after initial deployment. Construction begins with sliding the resin para-pack compartment into position, which has the door moulded open and out to the rear. The parachute is printed as a single part, which is attached to the base on the outer edge, and should be simple to remove and clean-up, adding a 1-4mm length of 0.27mm styrene rod from your own stores to the top, fixing the drogue bag to the end, and the drogue ‘chute itself on an eight-pointed PE star that represents the short lengths of cord that allows it to open. Between the parachute and the compartment is another 43mm length of 0.5mm rod with a 1mm ferrule for the last 2mm, all from your own stock, which ends with a 3D printed O-ring that gathers the individual cords of the parachute. These cords are depicted by fine PE strips that are anchored at the inner end by a strip, enabling you to form it into a small circle, spreading out the opposite ends so they can be attached to the circumference of the parachute, locating them on the tabs that project from the underside of the billowing ‘chute. Markings There are paint call-outs in Gunze Sangyo codes throughout the build, many of the cords are in white, the parachute and its lines yellow, and the drogue ‘chute in a light tan colour. Check your references for your particular example for fading or colour variance if you want to achieve maximum accuracy. Conclusion This is quite an unusual set that you’d think would be a niche product, but maybe its existence as a relatively simple method of creating a ‘chute-assisted landing scene will create the market and result in a lot more F-4s in landing dioramas going forward. Clearly the 1:48 set we reviewed some months back was a success, and maybe now we’re more likely to see a proliferation of these sets for other aircraft and scales. You could of course use this set with other branded Phantom kits, but you may have to do some work on the housing to make it work. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of