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Found 1,556 results

  1. While the daughter and her boyfriend are up visiting for the next couple of weeks i have been turfed out of my model room but I can still use the old garage but this means that the battle class build will be on hold until then as I do not want to start moving all the stuff around and end up where something goes missing. So to keep my sanity in place i will be doing this quite modern TUG it will be a OOB build no fancy detailing just for a bit of fun and to keep me out of the way with most of my stash. Seem to remember someone else doing this kit with a lot of detail added Side open boxes don't work for me so i cut this one open to have a flap lid Main hull and upper structures go together quite well and a coat of primer normally just use this desk and workbench as a spraying area but back to using it as a build desk again beefy
  2. Hi, getting round to starting the GR4 that's been sitting round for ages. Going to be building Goldstar farewell scheme
  3. Hi all, I've been here a few weeks now and though it was about time I showed you what I'm up to. I've very fond memories of watching Star Trek (TOS) as a kid in the 80's with my dad and my brother and it's one of the few things that has really stuck with me through changing times. The Enterprise itself I find mesmerising, it's graceful and each part of the ship has a clear purpose, a design classic and I love it. My favourite itteration has to be the refit, which I hope to build at some point in the future So, I got in to modelling because I wanted a decent model Enterprise, I've had a few very small die-cast models but they are always lacking something. I found the Revell kit online and decided that I'd build my own, LED lights and all. Now I've well and truly got the modelling bug, I've bought the Star Trek Starship Voyager for my next model, I've built a small Star Destroyer and plan to build models from Battlestar and other Star Trek models Here's some photos that I took while building my Enterprise, I wasnt originally planning on posting them online but then I found this place, so here it goes! 1. What a great start, I ruined my first model! I wanted to light my model with LEDs, so it had to be light-proofed. So the insides of the model had a coat of adhesion promoter, followed by black, then a silver or while coat would be painted to make it reflective. I was watching lots of Boyd's Trekworks Youtube videos for info and he used a heat gun on a gentle heat to aid the drying process.... I'll never do that again, my model melted You can see the plastic deformation from the heat in this image. It also shows my initial plan for lighting, which was to cover all windows with grease-proof paper, which diffuses the light, then placing LED's around the ship to light them up. 2. Saucer section interior is about ready So after buys a replacement model I started again, with a few important lessons learned This image shows the insides of the saucer section, painted and with the windows covered. I used 'Revell Contacta Liquid Special' to glue the clear windows in place, and to glue the greese-proof paper in place. The secondary hull, again with the inside prepared for lighting, it's had a black coat followed by a light coat to refelct the light. By this time I'd also started experimenting with LEDs, the breadboard in this photo had a 555 Timer chip and a 4017 Decade counter, they'll be used for the rotating lights of the Warp Nacells and the blinking navigation lights. 4.Let there be light! Not sure of the best positioning and arrangement of LEDs I just dove in with something that looked like it would give good coverage. I know some people use fewer but brighter LEDs, and some use LED tape/strips, which I might look at using in the future. Each LED has a resistor attached, and they're all in parallel, so if one should fail the others will continue to work. 5. Glue. After lighting the secondary hull in a similar way I was ready to glue a few parts together. Which I was pretty worried about as I considered it opportunity to ruin yet another model. I used Revel Contacta Professional glue and found my fears were unfounded, thankfully 6. Circuits To light this model I would need to build some circuits to handle the navigation lights and the rotating buzzard collector effects. So I bought the relevant gear from Maplin (I now use RS instead) and designed a few circuits in Pad2Pad, which is excellent free circuit design software. The first completed circuit was for the navigation lights, I was initially planning to put it inside the model but then decided I would fit it in the stand instead. 7. Warp Nacell Test #1 You saw my breadboard with a few components in an earlier photo. This is basically how the Buzzard Collector effect works on my model, The red, orange and green LEDs are aranged in a circle and give the impression of rotation. 8.Warp Nacell Circuit fitting After designing my Warp Nacell circuit in Pad2Pad, I printed it off, cut it out and placed it in it's intended final position to make sure it would fit. The circular plastic piece has holes drilled in it to receive the LEDs, 12 of them (for a single Nacell). 9. Assembled Warp Nacell Board After building the warp nacell board I fit it in place. Now you can also see how the LEDs sit. It's a pretty tight space so I was pleased that everything went in with no problems In the video below, the middle light isnt connected to any power, it will eventually be 'always-on' to provide a steady red glow. The camera doesnt really do the below any justice. 10. Closed up my first Warp Necell - and made my second big mistake It's amazing isnt it that you can do something, then the instant you finish you realise you've done it wrong. I guess it's not really that big a deal, the model isn't completely accurate anyway and I'd already decided that I would'nt worry about that this time. But this mistake was easily avoidably, yet at the crutial point I... put the wrong circuit in the wrong nacell, so the buzzard collectors now spin in the wrong direction. Only a Trek fan would notice, but it's annoying all the same. Still, after much grumpiness I think I can live with it. 11. Connecting the Pylons and the Seconday Hull. I'd already glued the warp nacells to the support pylons and let those set, I'd also done some work on removing the seams on all the parts glued so far. Now it was time to connect the wiring up and glue them to the secondary hull. With the wiring connected and the pylons glued on to the secondary hull, it looked like the area would be under a fair bit of stress, so I stuck a clamp in place to hold things together while they set. 12. Windows, I hate Windows I bought some masking fluid so that I could mask the windows, but found it to be far to imprecise and the results (of tests I did on my melted saucer section) were pretty messy. So after getting some advice right here on Britmodeller (thanks guys, you know who you are) I settled on masking the windows with masking tape. I used a scalpal to cut small rectangles working on one at a time. It took ages. I have used the masking fluid on a few of the larger clear pieces, but I'm still not impressed with the result, maybe I just need more practice with it! 13. All Masked, Time for the Primer With all the clear parts masked I bought myself a 'lazy suzan' and gave the entire ship a coat of Hycote Adhesion Promoter and then a nice coat of Hycote grey primer. No way was I going anywhere near this thing with a heat gun The wires you see here will eventually be fed through the stand in to the base. I found the Hycote cans give excellent fast coverage, pretty cheep too. 14. Base Color With the primer dry it was time to start mixing colours (as per the model instructions) and giving it some proper color. I used a 'Sparmax Arism Mini' Airbrush to spray the model, with Revel Aqua Color paints. I found that thinning the paint 2-parts paint to 1-part thinner worked pretty well. I'd aslo sprayed the deflector dish, I love that copper colour and started giving the warp nacell and impulse engines some colour. I was having trouble cutting the masking tape perfectly to cover the inside of the impulse engines, so decided to try the masking fluid. The result was not great but I think It'll look fine if I touch it up with a brush. So, that's my model so far. It's the first model I've ever build and while I've found it quite challenging I've really enjoyed it and plan to do many more in the future. I'll post more photos and videos as I make more progress. And thanks to everyone here for accepting me in to the site and giving me some great tips! Cheers
  4. As part of my effort to clear my backlog of started kits I have dug out my Matchbox Spitfire. I started this literaly decades ago, but didn’t get far. I have looked at it occasionally, but no action. Then I bought some Xtradecal decals for it, SAC MkIX undercarriage legs, MasterCasters interior, Master gun barrels. Finally I found out about the Grey Matter correction set for the nose, which of course I immediately ordered on a wim. Having now spent about ten times what the original kit cost, guilt has led me to this, my first WIP. It will not be a tutorial, I am not that good, it will not be a guide to the ultimate accurate Matchbox Spitfire, but posting about it will serve to prod me to get it built. With a little luck, at about the halfway point, somebody will announce a new accurate Mk 22/24 for you guys waiting for one. We will start with the nose, the Grey Matter nose is one seriously large accurate lump of resin. I may scratchbuild the u/c legs out of brass because even the SAC legs might fold under the weight! It also might be the first Spitfire build to need weight in the tail to prevent it becoming a nose sitter. You can see the difference with the kit item. The panel lines look much more to scale than the Matchbox lines-lol.
  5. I have had this next build in my stash for several years, and am finally getting around to putting the thing together. Chosen out of the stash by my son is Revells 1:72 Halifax Mk.III, this is going to be a straight from the box build with the exception of using Vallejo acrylics in place of the suggested Revell (purely personal preference here). It's a big kit with many sprues, and a choice of 2 colour schemes and decals. The sprues are very clean, no flash to be seen (which is a bonus) and lots of detailing. I am planning on building the aircraft in the scheme of 'Oscar,' No.424 Squadron, Royal Canadian Air force, 1944. Let the fun commence.
  6. Rejoining with this Revell Sea Vixen, that was formerly Frog kit F409. Well, it was either this or a Lightning. Requiring a nose extension similar to that I did on the Javelin. Here are the parts. I've got an Aeroclub vac canopy. This kit cost me £8.99 on 05 March 1998 - I kept the receipt. It scored about the worst review for shape that I've ever read in SAMI Oct 1999, which is why it's been ignored ever since! I've looked at Nimrod's thread - thanks.
  7. Hi everybody; here's my new project, the 1/72 Revell Eurofighter Typhoon This type entered into Italian Air Force service (AMI, Aeronautica Militare Italiana) in 2004, and it's currently deployed in three different bases: Grosseto (4° Stormo), Gioia del Colle (36° Stormo) and Trapani Birgi (37° Stormo). The kit supplied decals allow to build six different versions: two Germans, one Austrian, one British, one Spanish and one Italian, which is the one I'm doing. Typical Revell instruction sheet, with basically useless color table - it only refers to Revell paints The airframe I'm going to reproduce and the sprues (there's many of them ) The clear parts: the windshield shows some bubbles While the canopy has an annoying moulding seam going all along mid-line I'm planning to use the AM cockpit set from PAVLA More later, now I need to take care of my lawn. Ciao
  8. Hi folks, [This was originally part of the first Tornado Group Build back in 2008, hence the various references to deadlines and finish dates!] Here's the project: Aftermarket stuff: I have a lot of Flightpath stuff - the conversion and detail set, TIALD and ALARMs. Also, not pictured is the GBU-24 RAF version with the windmill fuse tail. I also have the indispensable Paragon seats, and the flaps and slats set. Decals from Fantasy Printshop - 18 to choose from. Too many choices! I have so little idea what to do i might just make one up out of various nose art cos it looks good. At the moment I am drawn towards Alarm Maiden or Dallas Dhu, but might end up doing Hot Stuff with the big sharkmouth, or whatever! Either way, it will be a Telic bird. All the best, Alan
  9. Hi guys, I will build the 1/96 Revell Saturn V rocket, aka Apollo 11. I will build it staight from the box. The rocket was launched on the 16th of Juli 1969 For the first rocket to the moon with the landing on the moon as well. so now you know that I am from 1969. It is also the birth year of the kit itself. the down side of this kit is that there are no decals for the red letters. They are printed on the plastic. I can't show you jet, because I still need to make some pictures. I hope to do that later this week. There is a set of decals for it and I might get these for the build. Cheers,
  10. 25th Anniversary "Benetton Ford B194" (05689) 1:24 Revell The Benetton Ford B194 was designed by Rory Byrne for the 1994 F1 season. It was based on the previous B192/3 and was to be powered by a Ford Zetec-R V8 engine produced by Cosworth. The car was very good in the hands of Michael Schumacher who won six of the first races that year. Schumacher commented that the car was hard to drive, and his team mates that season all found it very difficult to drive. Other teams suspected the car was not entirely legal due to its performance. During an investigation by the FIA launch control (which had been banned) was found in the cars software but there was no proof it had been used and the investigation was dropped. The Kit This is a re-release of Revell's 1995 re-released as its now 25 years on from the 1994 season, the kit comes in a bright green plastic presumably in order that it can be built without painting the car if needed, though it is not easy on the eyes! There is a also a set of paints & glue + a fold out A2 poster of the car in the box. Its worth noting that Revell are donating Euro 2.50 per kit sold to the Keep Fighting Foundation. Keep Fighting is a non-profit initiative that is celebrating the attitudes to “Keep Fighting” and “Never Give Up” which are directly inspired by Michael Schumacher. The Foundation is registered in Germany and operates globally through its projects. We have placed a link at the end of the review for people who would like to know more about the foundation. The build starts with the rear subframe/engine area. The engine and frame is added to the rear suspension mounts and the exhausts are added on. The rear axles are added along with their brakes. Then the rest of the engine is built up, with the suspension components being added. This sub assembly can then be mounted into the floor pan. Next up the radiators are assembled. Following this the rear spoiler is also built up. The spoiler and the radiators are then installed on the floor pan as well. We now move to the front top body of the car. The drivers head rest is added in and the front top half of the suspension is added. We then move to the front lower parts. The rest of the front suspension is built up and added along with the drivers tub, dash and steering wheel. The top and lower can then be joined together and the final suspension arms added along with the front brakes. The front aerodynamic wing structure is then constructed and added to the front section. On the sides additional aerodynamic parts are added. The front section can then be joined onto the main floor pan. The drivers wing mirrors are the last parts to be added on the front section. Next up is the rear top body. Additional aerodynamic parts are added and then this too can be added to the main body of the car. Lastly the wheels & tyres are built up with the centre of the rubber wheels being taken out. Decals The decal sheet provide markings for two separate cars for Michael Schumacher, and two from his teammate Jos Verstappen. Due to the rules on Cigarette advertising the Mild Seven decals for the car are not included, but are replaced by the word BENETTON. Conclusion This should make up to a good looking model pf the 1994 car. Recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  11. Boxer Command Post NL (03283) 1:72 Revell The Gepanzertes Transport Kraftfahrzeug (GTK) Boxer is a combined German/Dutch development and is the latest Armoured Personnel Carrier that is replacing the Fuchs and ageing M113 derivatives in German service. It is comparatively new, having only been introduced to the German Army in 2009, and Dutch service in 2011, although the French and British Armies were originally to have participated, but withdrew to pursue their own options during development. Typical of British procurement the Defence Minister announced that after wasting £300m "looking" for a replacement to our existing equipment, that they are now going to go for the original Boxer with the first vehicles scheduled to reach British service in 2023, but as usual we should expect it when we see it as there might be more opportunity to waste money before they finally hit the battlefield. The vehicle is larger and heavier than many other vehicles which have been designed for a similar purpose, although its eight wheels give it a long and low-slung appearance. The Boxer is a utility vehicle, designed to undertake a range of different tasks though the installation of mission-specific modules, each of which can be changed within an hour. Mission modules either developed or in development include Armoured Personnel Carrier, Infantry Fighting Vehicle, mobile artillery or mortar platform, combined missile and gun anti-aircraft system, command post, a, logistics and battle damage repair. The modern design features replaceable composite armour and protection from explosions below the vehicle. It is designed to be easy to deploy and maintain and can be carried in the new A400M transport aircraft, which we have from Revell in 1:72 (proof), so it's pure diorama fodder for aviation modellers. The Kit The original tooling was released in 2014 and we reviewed it here. This is a newly tooled update and arrives in one of Revell's small end-opening boxes that is well-stuffed with parts. Opening the box you unload four sprues in light grey styrene that make a nice change from the old green plastic from days of yore. There is also a clear sprue, small decal sheet and a new-style instruction booklet folded in half to fit inside the box. Details is as good as we remember and just like the real thing it's modular nature means that three of the sprues are the same as in the original apart from their nice new colour shade. The new sprue contains the new parts including the different roof of this Command variant that has additional hatches and other exterior panels. As is often the case with AFV kits, construction begins with the lower hull. The lower part of the chassis comes first, to which the new angular glacis plate, rear and side parts of the hull have to be added, along with the internal bulkhead. A detailed interior is provided, so pay attention to the instructions. The interior includes parts for the driver's compartment and a floor pan for the rear compartment, which follows the mission-dependent modular approach of the real thing. Each wheel features independent suspension with two coil springs per wheel and steering for the front two pairs of wheels. The overall effect is complex but well detailed in fact not too far off its 1:35 big brother reviewed back in 2011. This theme continues through to the way that the wheels are designed. Instead of being made up of two parts like most kits, they are made up of three, with the central layer sandwiched between inner and outer faces in order to better capture the look of the tyre treads. Once the running gear has been assembled and fitted to the lower hull, the vehicle starts to take on its distinctive wedge-shaped appearance. The upper glacis plate fits in place over the driver's compartment, with a gap for the elevated hatch/vision block so not all of that internal detail will be hidden. Before construction turns to the rear compartment, many of the smaller details have to be added to the front of the vehicle. This serves to reinforce the modular approach that Revell have taken to cater for alternative versions such as this one. The rear compartment in this case is for the Command version as it has been supplied to the Dutch Army with the suffix NL, although it is known at the Boxer CP (Command post) in service. Essentially it's a box made up of six slabs onto which some of the external detail is added by way of additional moulded hatches and panels. External details include aerials, mirrors and lights, as well as tow cables and a large perforated wire cutter on the front to defeat decapitation ambushes on the road. A well-detailed 12.7mm machine gun is provided on a central-roof mount, and also carries an array of smoke launchers with a hatch behind for the crewmember that is tasked with operating it. Around the deck are stowage boxes of varying sizes and a beacon on a pole for use on friendlier roads. The rear has an overhanging stowage area that includes a cover over the entrance and is fitted with pioneer tools at the sides. Markings There is only one option within the box, but two number plates are included to double-up your choices, even though both of them will be painted in the three-colour NATO scheme which is probably the most common one used by the Boxer unless it is involved in desert operation. Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion This is still a really excellent kit, and the new variant is welcome. The level of detail at this scale is superb, and the end results will be more than worth the effort. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  12. AVRO Shackleton MR.3 (03873) 1:72 Revell The Avro Shackleton was a long-range maritime patrol, Anti-Submarine Warfare (ASW) and Airborne Early Warning (AEW) aircraft developed by Avro from the Lincoln (with a few elements borrowed from the Tudor), which in turn was developed from the wartime Lancaster bomber. Powered by four Rolls Royce Griffon engines driving contra-rotating propellers, the Shackleton possessed far greater range than its forebears, enabling it to stay airborne for over 14 hours, despite its higher gross weight. In the Maritime Reconnaissance role it began life as a tail-dragger that bore more of a resemblance to the old Lanc, which morphed from versions 1 to 2 with a longer nose and relocated radome, into the MR.3 that added a nose-wheel that brought it more in-line with the tricycle undercarriage sported by the rest of the fleet as it modernised. The MR.3 was further modified with additional equipment inside both to improve its abilities and enhance crew comfort (a little) on those long sorties, which were further extended by the fitting of wingtip fuel tanks. The twin 20mm cannon in the nose and the complement of stores in the bomb bay were key, and the Phase 3 had two viper turbojet engines added to the rear of the outboard nacelles to improve take-off performance when heavily loaded. The Kit Revell's new tool in 2016 was eagerly awaited by many, as modellers had waited over 40 years for a new kit of the Old Grey Lady, with the AEW.2 the first out of the gate. Now we have an MR.3 with changed parts to depict this quite different version of the much-loved Shack. Inside the large end-opening box are 209 parts spread over twelve sprues in grey styrene, two of clear parts, a decal sheet and instruction booklet with colour painting guide to the rear. The mouldings look excellent, with fine, engraved panel lines, recessed rivets and plenty of crisply rendered detail. A great deal of effort has gone into the tooling of this kit. As usual, construction starts with the cockpit. Whilst it doesn't feature a full interior, Revell have done a good job of representing the inside of the Shackleton. The cockpit itself features nicely detailed seats with separately moulded armrests, decal seatbelts, and control yokes, while the detail on parts such as the instrument panel is exquisite as you can see from the detail photo above. The rear crew stations aft of the bomb bay are also nicely represented. Crew seats are moulded separately and there is plenty of moulded-in detail. You can even finish the model with the rear door open in order to show off a little more of the inside. The fuselage itself is broken down into front and rear sections that we rightly assumed were hinting at further releases, and features a double wing spar fixed to the roof of the bomb bay which, just like the real thing lends a lot of structural strength to the model. Before sealing the fuselage halves together, don't forget to fix the small side windows in the fuselage from the inside beforehand. While we're on the subject of clear parts, those provided with the kit are excellent, being both very clear and nicely moulded. The bomb bay doors are split and can be finished in the open position if required, but Revell provide no stores to put in there. The canopy and top hatch glazing are installed after the seams are dealt with, and here you'll need to be careful to get a good join to minimise clean up, although you have a much better chance of retaining all the rivets as they're recessed. If sanding starts to make them faint, you can always stop and deepen them with a bradawl or pin. The big nose cannon are fitted to the pivot from the inside and attached to the hole in the nose along with the curved canopy on top and a trapezoid bomb-aimer's window below. At the rear there is a clear stinger for observation purposes. The huge wings are split into upper and lower halves, with separately moulded ailerons and landing flaps which once assembled simply slide onto the wing spars to form a nice strong join. The rudders and elevators are all moulded separately too, so bonus marks go to Revell for including this useful extra feature, and the tip-tanks are separate with a clear lens added to the front of each one. The engine nacelles are very finely represented with superb moulded-in detail and separate cooling flaps, with the main landing gear bays sandwiched inside the inner engine pods. The landing gear is absolutely fine, but on the other hand you want to hang your Shackleton from the ceiling, you can close the landing gear bays up completely and save yourself the trouble of painting the wheels. There are also alternative outer nacelles with the exhaust for the Viper turbojets if you choose to model the Phase 3 example, which is good to see. Aside from adding a host of aerials and other small details such as the belly-mounted radome, all that remains to do is assemble and paint the propellers. This is no mean feat due to their sheer numbers – 32 tips in all. That's the bonus of contra-prop models, twice the props, twice the fun! Tackling this sub-assembly first might be wise as it is bound to be quite time consuming and could seem more of a chore if you're approaching burn-out at the end of the project. Markings There are two decal options supplied on the sheet, each one taking up two pages of the booklet, but you'll need to flip pages whilst decaling as they aren't pages that face each other even though there is a blank page at the back. Both options wear the same high demarcation white fuselage over dark grey scheme, and from the box you can build one of the following: Shackleton MR.3 (Phase 2) No.206 Squadron, Royal Air Force, Kinloss, Scotland, 1965 Shackleton MR.3 (Phase 3) No.42 Squadron, Royal Air Force, St Mawgan, Cornwall, 1970 Decals are printed for Revell by Zanetti, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. You can have a look at our Walkarounds by clicking on the buttons below for a bit more incitement if the pictures of crisp plastic detail aren't yet loosening your wallet. MR.3 (Phase 3) WR977 @ Newark Air Museum MR.3 (Phase 3) WR982 @ Gatwick Aviation Museum Conclusion It's hard to believe we've been blessed with two modern toolings of the Shackleton and now four variants are covered, with the Revell kit appearing to be free from what most would consider to be major potential oopsies. surface detail is superb, with its beautifully rendered panel line and rivet detail, making the competitors look a little soft by comparison. Overall a very pleasing effort for this variant from Revell that has tempted this 1:48 modeller. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  13. Revell is to release in October 2016 a new tool 1/32nd Messerschmitt Me.262B-1 Schwalbe kit - ref.04995 Single seaters should follow at an unspecified point of time. Design is reported executed by famous modeller Radu Brînzan. Source: http://www.plastik-modellbau.org/blog/revell-neuheiten-2016/2016/ V.P.
  14. Good day one and all! Its been some time since I've frequented here, I used to spend many a lunch and break time in work trawling through these pages but about 2 years ago they blocked BM (I know the B*********). I then found it difficult to keep up with all that was going on, slowly losing out, I had done a couple of posts but nowt major. However recently a random google search highlighted a BM page and remarkably it was back. The mighty BM had returned! So having had a good a catch up, and nice to see a few builds still going on ( @hendie and @Martian Hale being the main culprits) it was like I hadn't been away. So I thought Id would make a concerted contribution, but what? Well this weekend is Canada Day long weekend, and the weather sucks like a Cornish Bank Holiday, so its almost a perfect storm. It has to be a Canada Day weekend quick build, so I went through my stash and dug out one of my Seakings. I had a decal sheet from ages ago that I bought for the 771 version, but it also had a old Canadian version so what better than a RCN Seaking in Grey, EDSG and fluorescent!.......in a weekend! The challenge is on, convert a revel Mk41 into a CH124. This will be a quick build so no major work on the interior and to be honest artistic license (I love that phrase) will be applied liberally! So first up it was time to clear the bench... Time to stash my swordfish for the weekend and get out the plastic This version comes with a lovelly decal sheet but no it has to go! this is my chosen option So I don't have much time, its Friday night and I want to complete by Monday 2nd July, Canada Day. So it was straight into the build. The first thing is ALL doors and windows will be closed tight so that gives me the scope to ignore much of the internals. The only visible bit will be the cockpit and the most hideous bit about that is Revells seats. I know Canadians take it easy but the comfy chairs Revell supply are no where near realistic so its a quick re model. They are the same as Sikorsky offerings and not the Westland type so a bit of modification is required. (Disclaimer: Although I have spent several years around Canadian Seakings, my main experience is the RN type so a lot of the internal details may be more UK than Canadian......but hey that's where artistic license comes in!) This is the evolution of the front seats As I'm only bothered about the cockpit I only need to worry about 2 seats. After this I added a tubular surround to the seat and that is where I am, although I haven't go a photo yet of that part but ill show it when its complete. Another area is just behind P1 which the kit displays as a random spaghetti pattern so that was removed and a more appetising background created. This was then primed with Mig Ammo One shot primer. I prefer this as it sands well and is a good bed for Mig, Vallejo Air and Model Master, my preferred acrylics. I have tried vallejo primer (grey and black) and although it sprayed well it wouldnt sand, it seemed to want to peel rather than feather, causing much heartache on my silver swordfish! But this Mig stuff is great! So before I retire tonight this is my progress So that's the primer down, tomorrow morning will be an interior grey (not sure which yet) and then a splash of colour and finally close up the fuselage, not a bad target for day two! This will be a tricky target, for although the weather is pants Mrs C will need some attention, which basically means a touch of mooching around the shops. And we have a rib fest here in Halifax so that may be a distraction if we can find a break in the weather but at least I don't have any kids soccer so that is a god send! Oh well, time to settle down with a bit of Chateau Nerf du Bobby homebrew (which ironically is a bit papp but its cheap and cheerful!) and ponder on tomorrows details. Cheers now Bob
  15. Can't help myself! I didn't plan to join with so much to clear off the bench at the moment but the allure is too much. The Phantom is by far my favourite jet besides my unhealthy obsession with the F-14. Here's the kit I'll be building: After a night wings are together, fuselage all cleaned up and cockpit areas primed ready for paint. Hoping for a nice easy OOB build!
  16. Reissue of Revell's iconic kit. https://www.atlantis-models.com/preorders.aspx Tommo.
  17. This is not my usual fayre so please don't expect anything too fancy from this build, which will be made as it comes in the box. All tips for simple improvements I can make along the way will be welcome, and so folks, I give you the box and its contents. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr
  18. Hi I'm a little late with starting this, but I hope my choice of build will be welcome. I'll be using the fairly new Revell 1/48th Gr 4, together with Eduard photoetch interior and belts, and Xtradecal decals. Initial photos to follow soon. Steve
  19. Hi there fellow modellers. First time post in ready for inspection. It’s my second build with my new airbrush (Revell’s basic set, single action) and my tenth build overall, so I ‘m still figuring things out. Overall I’m happy with the result but there are things that need improving. First of all when I painted the fuselage paint looked nice, really happy with the result. Then I gloss coated it before putting on the decals (with Vallejo gloss acrylic varnish 26.517). After coating the paint didn’t look that nice/smooth anymore. In hind side I don’t know if the paint never was that smooth to begin with and the gloss coat just accented it or that I simply messed up applying the coating. (perhaps more/less coating?). I do know that after the coating the plane feels a bit sticky, even after 24 hours and is a dust magnet. After coating I did cover the plane with a shoebox to prevent dust falling on to it. Thinking about using another brand of gloss next time. The second thing I struggled with is putting the separately painted small parts on to the fuselage without messing up the paint or leaving glue residue. I know the preferred order is first gluing and then painting but with some parts I just don’t see any other way to pull it off. I guess experience and gaining more modelling skills will lead to improvement in this area. Then there is the fr#@k!ng canopy. For me without a doubt the most difficult part of a build. In videos I see all those people cutting maskingtape like it’s the easiest job in the world, but now, for me free brushpainting and scrapping the excess paint with a toothpick works best. I see a lot of improvement compared with my older builds but still a whole lot to gain. The Corsair purists among you will notice the paint color is a bit of. I think I messed up the color mixing percentages, but considering the points I mentioned above, it doesn’t bother me that much. My last build I started to use Tamiya panel line accent color but the panel lines on this kit are so shallow that I didn’t think the result would justify the work I had to put in. Well, all the disclaimers are in place so plane is ready for inspection!
  20. Fordson WOT6 British WWII Truck (03282) 1:35 Revell During WWII, Ford UK built a great many vehicles for the British war effort, as well as some 34,000 Merlin engines for Spitfires, Lancasters and Hurricanes. The WOT.6 was a 4x4 light truck (3 ton capacity) with a short cab that housed a 3.6L V8 engine pumping out a fairly paltry 85hp that could get it to 75mph eventually. The engine's location under the cab gave the load bed plenty of space on the chassis rail, and also gave the truck a sit-up-and-beg look. The heat from the radiator had to be redirected by a fairing to prevent it being ingested by open windows, thereby cooking and possibly even poisoning the crew if it wasn't in the best of health. Over 30,000 were built in a number of configurations, and they were in service from 1942 to the end of the war, with those in good enough shape carrying on into the early 60s. The Kit This is new tooling from ICM, which has bow been reboxed by Revell The kit arrives in a small box with their usual top flap on the lower tray, and inside the outer clear foil bag are seven sprues in medium grey styrene, a clear sprue in its own bag, four flexible black plastic tyres and a sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) parts, each in their own bags, plus a small decal sheet. The instruction booklet completes the package, and is printed on glossy white paper in colour, with black and red used for the diagrams throughout, and the decal options printed in colour at the rear. British WWII softskins aren't much of a priority for many companies, so it will be happily anticipated by many for that reason, and due to the vast improvement in ICM's tooling in recent years they will be pleased to see that they have packed in a lot of detail to this release, and you can almost bank on there being other versions forthcoming in time if this one sells well. Perusing the sprues shows plenty of detail all over, with the occasional ejector pin that's unavoidable if you're expecting top quality detail on both sides of parts. Common sense has prevailed however, and all the marks are in areas where they either won't be seen, or where they're relatively easy to make good. The construction phase begins with the chassis, which is made up from two main rails, with sub-rails and spacers holding things together, and front suspension moulded into the outer rails. With the chassis completed by adding the rear end, attention turns to the engine, which is a complete rendering, and made up from a good number of parts for detail, including the block, pulleys, transmission and a short drive-shaft that threads through the holes in the cross-members. The two long exhaust pipes with mufflers go under the chassis on each side, and the rear suspension is fitted, which is a substantial set of leaf-springs, then the axles and drive shafts are attached to the suspension and transfer box. Brake drums, fuel tanks, steering arms and struts are all installed before the wheels are built-up around the rubbery black tyres, which have tread details moulded-in, and are finished off by the addition of the hubs, which attach from both sides, and are then detailed with additional parts before they are slotted onto the axles. The undercarriage is almost done, and it's time for the upper surfaces, beginning with the engine bay, which has the front wheel-arches moulded in, and is then detailed with lights, front rail, radiator and some additional ancillaries to keep the engine running. You even get a pair of lower hoses for the radiator to mate it to the engine, and two more longer ones diving diagonally down into the topside of the engine from the top of the rad. There's going to be a bit of painting needed, as the engine can be seen from the underside, even though access is limited. The bay sides are planted, and are joined by internal covers and instrumentation on top, which have a few decals to detail them up. Some of the driver's controls are added on the right side (the correct side) of the engine, and a pair of seats are built up and added to the square bases installed earlier, then the front of the cab is detailed with clear parts and window actuators, before the sides are attached to the edges and lowered onto the chassis, then joined by the simple dash board and steering wheel on its spindly column. The doors are separate parts and have clear windows, handles and window winders added, then joined to the sides in either the open or closed position or any variation of the two. The cab is a bit draughty at the moment, until the rear panel and the roof are added, the latter having a pop-up cover on the co-driver's side, with a couple of PE grilles then added to the front radiator frames after being bent to shape. Now for the truck bed, beginning with the sides, which have two stiffeners added, then are covered with bumpers along the top and bottom edge of the outside face. The bed floor fits into a groove into the bottom, and is kept square by the addition of the front and rear sides. Under the bed are a number of stowage boxes and racks for additional fuel or water cans, which are happily also included, then they are joined by the two parts per wheel that form the wheel arch that are braced on the outside with two small struts. Then it's the fun part! Adding the bed to the chassis, which is kept in the correct place by two ridges under the bed that mate with grooves in the chassis rail. At the front, two light-hoods are fitted above the lights, and the prominent pedestrian unfriendly hood that deflects the rain and hopefully redirects the engine heat from being sucked back into the open front windows on a hot day. The cab is detailed with additional lights, horn, wing mirrors, grab-handles and even some pioneer tools, then the windscreen wipers. Moving backwards, the four c-shaped hoops that support the canvas tilt are applied to the outside of the bed sides, reaching roughly half-way down the sides to obtain a strong join in both 1:1 and 1:35. The final act is to add seven rods along the length of the roof section of the tilt frame, which will need some careful alignment to ensure all the hoops are vertical and correctly spaced. Now you can paint it, but you've probably got a lot of that done already in truth. Markings The decal sheet is pretty small, but it's also quite colourful due to the unit markings that are included. From the box you can build one of the following: Royal Army Service Corps, attached 7th Armoured Brigade, Hamburg 1945 Royal Artillery, attached the 50th Northumbrian Infantry Division, Holland 1944 Decals are printed by Cartograf in Italy looking at the sheets number, so there will be no issues with them. Conclusion As soon as I saw this in the box I thought it was an interesting subject, and it looks like ICM have made a nice little replica here. Plenty of detail, some PE parts, and some rubbery tyres for those that don't want to have to paint them. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  21. Me.262A-1/A-2 (03875) 1:32 Revell The shark-like profile of the Messerschmitt Me.262 Schwalbe and its almost matchless abilities at the time have given it a high profile despite its lack of practical effect on the outcome of WWII. If Der Fuhrer had been a little less prone to meddling however, the effect of its presence may have been felt more by the bomber streams than it was. That's if they could have solved the metallurgy of the engines to obtain sufficient time before they burned themselves to oblivion. That's a lot of ifs, but if we concentrate on the actual performance of it, it's still an impressive aircraft that was superior to the British Meteor in many respects, using axial flow jet engines and swept outer wing panels together with an efficient aerodynamic shape. It first flew with a prop in the nose and dummy engines, dragging its tail along the ground until airborne, but this was changed once the engines were live as the thrust from both engines would have played havoc with their landing strips. The delays were caused partly by Hitler's insistence that the airframe should be able to carry bombs, which it eventually could under its nose, but as usual their efforts were spread too thin by trying to make the Schwalbe a workhorse with many variants, all of which took valuable engineers and strategic materials away from the fighters that were to be the most use in the defence of the Reich. The huge speed differential between the 262 and its bomber stream targets meant that zoom attacks were necessary that gave precious little time for the pilot to take careful aim due to the high rate of closure. The aircraft were also vulnerable during take-off and landing due to the slow spooling-up of all early jet engines, which the Allies took full advantage of to reduce the fleet further with intensive maintenance whittling away at the available airframes even further. It was a case of too little too late in terms of numbers and even with their speed advantage a few were shot down by piston-engined Allied aircraft due in part to the extensive experience that the Allied crews had gained during the invasion and the comparative lack of experienced German pilots by that stage of the war. As the Allies rolled through Germany they captured airbases and research establishments with many variants that didn't see combat found and hoovered up by US Operation Paperclip and similar operations by the other Allied governments. The Kit This is a fork of the 2016 tooling in this scale of the Me.262B-1/U-1 two-seater with new parts to depict the single seat fighter. This was made easier by the sensible decision by Revell to tool the engines and other common parts to ensure they could be used for other variants, so it's a case of new fuselage parts on the otherwise identical sprue, new clear parts, a new single-part cockpit and of course the bombs that the fighter was supposed to carry. Inside the deep end-opening box are thirteen sprues in their usual light grey styrene, two clear sprues, decal sheet and the new-style instruction booklet with painting guide printed at the rear in colour. Construction of this variant is broadly similar to the original, beginning with the cockpit and its sidewalls. These are made up with levers and some decals, then the centre section of the cockpit floor is added along with the power breaker panel that is prominent on the pilot's right. The instrument panel has cylindrical backs moulded in with a separate add-on section depending upon whether the airframe is to carry rockets or bombs. Decals for the instruments are supplied, and the panel is attached to the forward end of the side consoles by two tabs, with the rudder pedals fitted under them, then joined by the front bulkhead. The pilot's seat is well-moulded and you'll leave another on the sprues as a left-over from the 2-seat variant. You can use the decal seatbelts directly on the seat, or add these to foil to give them a bit of depth if you don't want to go for PE or those awesome HGW belts that I'm always going on about. The cockpit's cylindrical "tub" is added in two parts around the assembly, then it is set aside for a while to build up the combined gun bay and nose-gear bay on opposite sides of the tapering floor part. The two walls of the bay are added with the stub of the nose gear leg, the rest of which is added later, then the top side is fitted out with ammo guides before a pack of four Mk.108 cannons and their supportive bulkhead are slipped into place past the ammo feeds. The remaining upper feeds are then laid over the installation, and two braces are added between the two bulkheads, which will all be visible if you elect to leave open the bay doors. In the fuselage halves, the ammo chutes are placed inside depicting the rectangular outlets for the spent brass, then the bay is glued into the port side and the fuselage is closed up. One handy feature of the 262 is that in most scales the majority of kits allow you to insert the cockpit from below before the wings are attached. The cockpits sills are inserted into the aperture from above along with the canopy rail, then the cockpit with aft bulkhead are fitted from below and ancillary equipment that will be visible through the gear bays are added to finish off. Speaking of the gear bays, the main spars that pass through the main bay are next to be built, beginning with the front section that is joined to the rear by three ribs and the stubs of the main gear legs. These are placed in the centre lower wing section which has the outer panels added that use overlapping tabs to strengthen their joints. The two flap sections are added to each lower wing, then after fitting the upper wing panels the two-part ailerons are installed with their actuators and fairings. The 262 had gravity operated slats along the leading edge of the wing, so on the ground and at low speed they will be deployed by default, and this is depicted by the separate surfaces that are joined to the wing by six points moulded into the upper wing section. If you are posing your model with the gear up, the slat tabs are cut off and the slats fitted flush to the wing. This completes the wings, and they are added to the lower fuselage, taking care to align the lower panel and its fairings front and rear to minimise any clean-up. Now work begins on the engines, which are depicted in their entirety (externally) from intake to exhaust with separate handed nacelles added to turn them into port and starboard units. The intake and its inner trunk are joined one inside the other, with the bullet and front face of the engine added from behind, with a similar method used for the exhaust with its stator vanes and the rear of the engine just visible through them. The mid-section of the engine body is made of five parts and its various colours are picked out as you go. The intakes and exhausts are added, more ancillaries are fitted around the middle, and then the two units are slipped within their two-part nacelles that fit port and starboard after adding the compound curves of the fairings front and rear that fit neatly onto the leading edge of the wing first and are then glued along their length. It's looking a lot like a Schwalbe now, but needs its tail-feathers. The fin is moulded into the fuselage halves with a separate rudder and trim-tab, and the elevators are made up from two part fins and a single elevator unit for each that can be posed at an angle if desired. These are fitted into the slots in the tail and should be at 90o to the fin and monitored as the glue sets. For the landed option, the gear needs making up next, with a choice of design of four-part nose wheels and standard two-part main wheels with a zig-zag tread. The struts are single parts each, the nose leg having a single armed yoke, while the main gear have separate scissor-links added to the fronts of their struts and the wheels fitted to a stub axle that sits roughly perpendicular to the leg. If you're going wheels up the nose gear bay is closed up by a single part after cutting off the hinge points. The main gear bay is provided with a single piece that spans both bays. If you are using the gear, the nose bay door is cut into two sections and posed with one piece attached to the side, and the other part captive to the front of the leg. The main gear bays take three parts each, with two attached to the leg, and the inner section affixed to a central brace between the bays and fitted with two retraction jacks each. In order to fit the canopy the gun-sight has to be made up first on a cruciform bracket with the clear gun-sight fitted to one leg and the lenses left clear while the rest of the sight is painted. The windscreen has its bullet-proof internal screen attached from the inside before the completed gun-sight is fitted into the inside edges of the screen then glued into position at the front of the cockpit aperture. The opening canopy has its head-armour fitted and can be glued into place open using the two moulded-in tabs, or closed by removing the tabs before installation. The aft section of the canopy is usually seen in position, but can be shown open using the tabs provided although there's not much to be seen under it. The engine cowlings can be left off to display some of the detail, as can the nose bay to show off the cannons just by cutting the cover into three sections, one part of which is glued across the centre and the other two fitted gull-wing style with props supplied on the sprues. The nose cone and cannon troughs are glued to the front, with a tiny clear light on the tip of the nose. The 262 could carry either two drop-tanks to extend its range, or a pair of bombs in the fighter-bomber role, or rockets under the wings. The drop tanks are each two parts split top and bottom at a natural seamline and share the same pylons as the bombs. The bombs supplied are 250KG or 500KG and use the same construction method of two parts with a separate nose-cone, two fins and an exterior ring at the rear on the 500KG unit, and braces for the smaller units. The rockets are moulded as one part and are attached to their racks that are conformal to the underside of the wings. The model is completed by clear wingtip lights, D/F loop on the spine, pitot probe on the port wingtip and aerial under the wing. Markings There are two decal options included in the box, each one spanning two pages of the booklet and printed in full colour. They are sufficiently different to please many, and from the box you can build one of the following: Me.262A-1a Wk.Nr. 130017, Erprob.Kdo 262, Lechfeld, 1944 Me.262A-2a WkNr. 170122, 2./KG 51 "Edelweiss" Rheine, 1944 Decals are printed for Revell by Zanetti, with good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion Grab one of these if 262s and 1:32 are your thing and you'll be well-pleased. There is a lot of detail moulded-in, and if you want more there will be enough aftermarket to sink a ship in due course. With Revell's distribution network they'll be pretty easy to find too. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  22. canopy was missing from the kit so had to wait for it to arrive in the post from revell, after a quick email asking for a new one. Also needs some decal fix to really sink the arrow down on the underside.
  23. Revell 1/32 spitfire mk2, build is complete it just needs weathering and some paint cleaning up on edges etc.
  24. Sorry if I got anyone excited... just wondering if there was any news on this kit which is so obvously coming based on the internal frames in the GR.4 & IDS kits. If nothing else maybe a lot of interest in this thread will make Revell pull their finger out?
  25. Hi All, I must be a sucker for punishment. Yet another model that I have decided to finish along with all the others. This one has for no reason that I can work out, been sitting on the back-shelf for an enormously long time. I had built the engine, transmission & exhaust and had sprayed all the body parts in their final colour, then I put it away and forgot about it. This is the Revell 'Premium' range of 1/24th kits. There weren't many models in this series, This, a BMW 850 a Mercedes 560 C, coupe and cabriolet. I has many more parts than your usual Revell kit, and has a reputation for being difficult to build, almost to the point of being un-buildable! That currently, has not been my experience. The engine and transmission (No piccies unfortunately. I had assembled the engine and transmission into the floor-pan before I realised I had no pictures) went together well, as did the exhaust system. A bit over-the-top in the parts count department, but engineered well enough. I decided that mine would be black, so I sprayed it with Halfords' grey primer followed by a Halfords' Black (Not sure which one - there is more than one shade!) So, this is where we are now: The somewhat crumpled box. Looks impressive. The body: There are some minor imperfections that will polish out. I use Halfords' polishing compound. It's a old can, and appears to be quite different from the newer Halfords polishing compound. Sorry about the blurry rear-end, but I was using shutter priority on the camera in order to use flash, and it must have selected a very wide aperture, hence the shallow depth of field. The wheels: Now, this is one area where Revell could improve upon. The tyres are that Vinyl stuff. It has a few failings: It appears to be 'oily' to the touch It doesn't look very much like rubber (too shiny) It can melt polystyrene, so you have to ensure the wheel is painted where the tyre touches it. It seems to age badly and become brittle. All but one of the tyres has split right across the tyre. I resolved it by using CA glue in the gap to hold the tyre together. I then filled the remains of the gap with High-tack PVA glue. That has the advantage that it dries clear, so appears to part of the tyre, and it also dries quite flexible, similar to the original vinyl (event when brittle). It is quite difficult to see the splits now, so the repair appears to have worked. This is where the new stuff starts: The rear suspension went in first. There are over twenty parts to make up the rear suspension, even more when you add the brakes and springs! Seems a bit like overkill. Still for all that, it assembled well and it all fitted. I highlighted all the pipe-work by dry-brushing aluminium on to the raised pipes. It needed a bit of clean-up later but nothing serious. The exhaust system is also another example of a complicated break-down of parts. There are nine parts here. Fortunately it all went together well, like this: It all fitted well. No major gaps, just a smear of filler before the back-box on one of he pipes. The headers event connected to the manifolds. I was impressed. Another view of the rear suspension with the axles attached: Again, quite complex, but it all fitted well. This is one of the from suspension parts. Again the fit was well engineered, and it fitted well. This biggest difficulty was ensuring no glue got onto the revolving axle part. That's the bit in the bottom right corner. So, this is where we are at present: All suspension parts added, including anti-roll bars etc. The exhaust looked a bit too shiny, so I used a mix of Humbrol matt black and gloss brown, highly diluted in white spirit to "grubby" it up a bit. The white spirit doesn't attack the acrylic already there. It has stalled here due to a major cock-up on my part. The right suspension part at the front didn't want to stay in place. I thought perhaps that the strut needed to be pressed harder into the wish-bone, so I pushed a bit harder. Not a good idea. I managed to snap off the wish-bone and nearly lost it to the laminate monster (The carpet monster's close cousin). I was not impressed (understatement of the decade). After locating the broken part, I used epoxy glue to fix it back in place. The end result is a bit more flexible than I would like, but it doesn't appear to be going anywhere. The problem still remains that the strut keeps falling out. No better (or worse) than before. I think that the only solution will be to glue the strut in place and lose the ability to have functional steering. Having said that, apart from posing it off centre, I never do anything else with it, so it's not a huge loss. I'll just set it slightly off centre anyway. More soon, I hope. Thanks for looking, Alan.
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