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Kev The Modeller

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Everything posted by Kev The Modeller

  1. IMHO they work very well, I've had one for a few years now. Like you I was new to airbrushing at the time, I found it a great help, as time has gone on, I use it less and less as you learn the muscle memory/skill to better control the paint flow. That said I still use it as a safeguard when airbrushing certain things, really good for preventing flooding or over wetting of top coats both colour and clear. Unfortunately I don't have an Ultra, my two H&S are Evolution and Infinity so can't confirm if a quick fix will fit, but I'd be surprised if it didn't.
  2. In theory no, but due to things compressor spec/quality, length of line, line/tank integrity (leaks) and the gauge. The air you think is coming out of the compressor as shown by the gauge, could well be very different from what is reaching and coming out of the nozzle not to mention any fluctuation. The Mac valve on the brush is much closer to the nozzle so you've got a far more accurate control over what's coming out.
  3. Wow, fantastic build, the turret top mod is a master stroke., absolutely stunning work
  4. I does, but that doesn't mean your unit is faulty. It could be a filling issue or that somehow an amount of oil has gotten into the lines and exhaust valve area, not sure how but possible. When I drain my tank, last being last night I literally turn the whole unit on it's side as directed in the manual, which would mean the oil in the unit is sloshing about, I've still don't get anything like your discharge at exhaust. Contact Martin in the morning, send him the video and he take a judgement, I'm certain he'll either change it straight away (if he's got stock) and recover the faulty unit or order a replacement and he'll take it up with Sil- Air. It's possible it might have to be repaired due to unit cost but any postage I would have thought will be covered. Keep us posted Jason please.
  5. Jason, That does appear to be excessive for a single exhaust. I've just tested mine and there's only the slightest stain on a piece of kitchen roll, I mean like it's dry and just a hint of colour under a bright light, it's almost invisible. If your unit is within warranty, and it needs repair, Martin will sort the postage rest assured, they'll be no cost to you. I had a light that failed, he arranged for pick up after he'd sent out a replacement all at no cost. It's possible he'll just replace it and recover your unit if its faulty, if he's got one in stock, I really can't speak highly enough of AirCraft, Martin is a superb supplier
  6. I agree, had my 15A getting on for 5 years, I used to clean it every month but stopped as it just wasn't worth the effort for what I was cleaning. Like Mike and Jas I was getting almost nothing out of the tank and just a slight coating on the casing. I cleaned it last night after reading this post and it's not been cleaned for at least 2 years, oil had dropped like 0.5mm at most, the cover needed a wipe and the tank had about an egg cup of water/oil mix 90% water. It's used on average 4 times a week for between 2 - 4 at a time, of late more. If yours is using the amount of oil your suggesting something not right, are you sure it was on totally level surface when you filled it? How much did you put in from the supplied oil bottle when new? I had almost 50ml left in the bottle after filling to half the sight bubble, just wondering if it wasn't quite level when you filled it, or when checking it so it looks like it's low. If you got it from Air Craft contact Martin he'll sort things for you if it's still under warranty. Like Mike I also agree about the mod to the air valve, I just left mine as it is.
  7. Gentle warm the area and slowly bend it back.
  8. Only real issues using enamels and lacquers is they are more toxic and smell a lot more, as does the thinner/cleaners required. Which for some due to their modelling location and/or health situations can rule them out, you'll also need a mask at the very least or as I have a mask and extractor they really stink and are toxic. They do offer excellent finish, although I've not airbrushed enamels for many years, lacquers I use for high surface finish like on cars or bikes, both Tamiya and Mr Hobby (Mr Color) do lacquer ranges, both are superb.
  9. You are most welcome mate, I'd also recommend Mr Hobby Aqueous, they are just like Tamiya but have a much larger range of colours 👍
  10. They're acrylic, but they're alcohol based but are water soluble, just use their thinners X-20A you can also use Mr Hobby Aqueous. You can also use lacquer thinner Tamiya X-20 or Mr Colour thinner, both have a version of 'self leveling' Tamiya is with retarder, Mr Colour strangely called self levelling. It's all a bit complicated at first but things will sort themselves out as you gain experience and knowledge, just stick with the X-20A for Tamiya or Aqueous for Mr Hobby at first.
  11. True water based acrylics (AK, Ammo, Vallejo are the common ones) can produce really good results but you need a good deal of experience both the paint, it's preparation/thinning and airbrush skills to get good results painting camouflage patterns, or most detail work. Most of us have been there, believe you me, I certainly have, I almost got to a point of giving up, until a friend suggested Tamiya/Mr Hobby Aqueous, interestingly I was trying to do precisely what you are. I switched paint as suggested and bingo. This allowed me time to perfect my skills and knowledge of airbrushing and paint, while not being disheartened by constant failure. I've since learnt how to airbrush water based acrylics to quite reasonable levels (IMHO) but I really only use them now to clear them, I'm not replacing them, my go too paints are Tamiya and Mr Hobby both acrylic and lacquer. Save yourself a lot of hassle and switch paint you won't regret it.
  12. Water based acrylics aren't the best for on/off close in work at the best of times, but 20psi is too high it should be possible to spray at 10psi with a correctly thinned paint. The results you'll get will depend on the airbrush, needle size and your skill to a great extent. My advice would be to use Tamiya or Mr Hobby Aqueous paint much more forgiving will easily spray at less than 10psi and you don't have to thin the life out of the paint either.
  13. If you've got the H&S pinch tip, just use a a bit of kitchen roll between your fingers, saves all the mess inside the cap and it's much quicker.
  14. Following along with interest, some lovely detailing and weathering work
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