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Andy Moore

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Andy Moore last won the day on May 14 2016

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About Andy Moore

  • Birthday 01/05/1973

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    Derbyshire, United Kingdom

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  1. Thanks for the comments everyone Cheers Matt, yeah, the work on the house is done now. Yes, this is one I printed myself. Very little clean up required though, just needed the supports removing and a quick wash, and it was ready for paint. The sculptor has a few figures from Holy Grail. You can find them here if you scroll down the page a bit. Andy
  2. There are some who call me... Tim I've not had much time for modelling over the last couple of months, but I have managed to get a couple of bust prints painted. The first is this one of John Cleese as Tim the Enchanter from Holy Grail. It's a single-part print that stands just under 2" in hight. Painted with a mix of Vallejo and AK Gen 3 acrylics. Quite! Thanks for looking Andy
  3. Thanks, The Revell kit is approximately 33.5cm long and 12cm high. Your Bandai version looks great. Andy
  4. They look great Warren. Some nice figures on their website, might have to order a couple. I take it they don't come pre-supported? Andy
  5. Thanks everyone. The finished shots are up in RFI now. I've not tried that one but, yes, as far as I know it's the same minus the UV protection. I'd imagine it would work just as well over a metallic finish. I did notice that Scale Model Shop has the UV cut flat in stock, but not the gloss - they didn't have either a few weeks ago, so maybe it is just a delay in stock coming through. I'd definitely recommend it John. I did hear that Revell will be increasing their prices soon, so best get it ASAP if you can. Andy
  6. Revell's new Razor Crest from the Star Wars TV show 'The Mandalorian'. The kit is definitely a step up from some of Revell's previous Star Wars releases, featuring some excellent detailing and a full interior. It's also nice that they've made it in a standard modelling scale rather than some random one as many of their earlier SW kits were. The only significant downside with the kit is the poor surface texturing across many of the parts, including some quite visible tooling marks in places. Much of that can be removed with a sanding stick and a little effort, but I'd have prefered it not to be there in the first place. Despite that, the kit builds up well and has excellent fit for the most part. A few areas can benefit from a little extra detailing and enhancement, but the end result is an accurate and fairy imposing replica of the Crest, especially if you can stand it next to it's natural stablemate - Slave 1. The full build can be found here Thanks for looking Andy
  7. Thanks Johnny, Yes, ghost lines can be a nightmare. I won't pretend I always manage to avoid then, but what I normally do with joints where I think ghost seams may be an issue is to glue the parts together with styrene gloop (you know, bit's of sprue dissolved in Tam extra thin), letting it squelch out and fill any gaps in the seam line. Once it's dry, I'll take the excess down with a file (which I prefer for round parts over a sanding stick), and usually the gloop will have done the trick and there won't be a seam. If there are any traces of a seam left, I just brush on another layer of gloop and repeat the filing/sanding. For top coating metallics, sometimes I don't bother if I think the finish will be robust enough to take any weathing I'll be applying. In this case, the AK polished alu I used is quite fragile, and I had to re-apply it in a few spots where it had worn away from handling, and being enamel based, it tends to react badly to oil and enamel washes, so I definitely needed to seal it. I used to do that with Alcad aquaclear, but these days for clear coats (over metallics or regular finishes) I use Gunze GX UV Cut gloss and flat (they don't do a satin sadly). The Crest had a 50/50 mix of flat and gloss to seal the surface before the weathering started and a final mist coat of flat at the end as I felt the shine was a little too high in places. The GX UV cut clears don't seem to affect underlying metallic finishes much, and they're pretty much bullet proof as a sealing coat. I have noticed that they're starting to be hard to find though - hopefully that's just a temporary supply issue, and not a sign that they're being fazed out. Cheers Matt, Yes, it's good to be getting back to normal, but I'm so far behind on various builds it's going to take me quite a while to get everything back on track. Thanks Pete, Yes, I did consider that. To be honest, I didn't really realise how weak the joint was until the parts were assembled and ready for paint. I didn't really want to go back and re-work the legs at that point, so I just hoped for the best. They're holding the ships weight for now, but if they do break at some point I will have to drill and pin them. The strut wouldn't be a problem to drill, but the upright box section on the foot would be more of an issue as there isn't much meat there to drill into. It's essentially just on open-backed box that a tab on the end of the strut plugs into. This model would definitely be a candidate for some cast metal landing gear. I've finished the final bits of assembly now, so I can officially call the build done. The engines were glued into place, and the weathering tweaked a little to blend them in. These are an excellent fit, simply dropping into place on the ends of the stub wings. The joint is completely hidden, which makes it really easy to mount them after painting. I really wouldn't have wanted to paint and weather the whole model with the engines in place. The guns are a simple push fit, and stay in place without needing to be glued. They were painted the same as the rest of the ship, but the barrels got an overpaint with some thinned gunmetal to darked them, then a bit of heat staining around the muzzles with Tam clear blue. So that's the Crest wrapped up. I'm really happy that Revell have produced this kit, and done it in a proper scale. I do wish they'd payed more attention to finishing the moulds as there's far too much surface texture over the main parts, and also quite a few tooling marks which seems quite sloppy. I do wonder if the priduction of the kit was rushed towards the end to beat the AMT release to market. It does seem corners were cut in mould finishing. That being said, the model is packed with detail and does look great once finished, and it's a considerable step up from some of the other Star Wars kits Revell have released in the past. I'll get some shots up in RFI later. Thanks to everyone for sticking with the build through all the delays. Andy
  8. Personally I think the white wash is looking great Matt. I particuarly like the runs and dribbles under the turret and transmission cover. I've also been slightly disheartened with white wash finishes I've applied in the past when looked at in their raw state, but once they've had additional weathering everything blends together in a more natural way. Andy
  9. Thanks chaps, Starting to get back to a normal routine now, and I've managed to get the Crest just about finished. The landing gear was sprayed with Alclad Aluminium, then weathered with oils and acrylics. The cables on the main gear were done with fuse wire and they'll thread into holes drilled inside the gear bays. One point to note with the main gear - the connection between the end of the strut and the upright section on the foot is very thin and the soft styrene can easily bend. They're supporting the model's weight for now, but for long term display I think I'm going to fashion a support under the main fuselage to take some of the strain off the legs. The weathering on the main fuselage has been finished now. This was mainly done with oils and acrylics again, with a few enamel washes used here and there. All the panel lines had a pin wash with Abteilung Starship Filth oil, then some of the panels were given filters with Games Workshop washes to tint them. The rest of the weathering was mainly grungying up the surface with mottled applications of thinned oils and acrylics. I finished off with a few streaks here and there, and some speckling done with highly thinned oil paint. I was using screen shots as a general inspiration for the weathering, rather than trying to replicate every mark and stain seen on the original. Just the engines and landing gear to attach, and a bit of clean-up here and there, and I can call it done. Andy
  10. Yes, sorry everyone for the huge delay in updates. I've had to re-wire about half of my house, which has led to a lot of disruption including having to completely empty my work room. I'm starting to get things straight now, and have managed to get a tiny bit more work done on the Crest. I've got the landing gear together and it's fairly well detailed, although the parts need a lot of clean-up as there are some pretty heavy mould lines. For the most part the gear is fairly accurate to the original, but the vertical wedge-shaped strut on the top of the main leg should actually be an open 'V' shape with a lattice structure on the inner strut (see second photo). That strut only holds the upper door, and doesn't support any of the ships weight, so it shouldn't be a problem to trim it down to better match the original. Doing the lattice cutouts won't really be possible, but the strut isn't going to be be all that visible on the finished model anyway, so not a big deal. If I'd got more time, I'd probably design and print a replacement, but modifying the kit part will do for now. The gear bay door that attaches to that strut has some very noticeable ejector pin marks on the upper face that need filling. I have no idea why Revell didn't place the parts on the sprues so the pin marks were on the hidden underside, but maybe it's something to do with the curved shape of the part that required the ejector pins to be on the upper side? The downward curve at the end of the door isn't quite as pronounced as it is on the original, and the part is quite thick as well, so again a printed replacement would work better, but I'll use the kit parts for now. I've also managed to finish painting the fuselage stripes, so all the main paintwork is now done, and I can move on to the weathering. Back when I painted the first section of stripes on the left-hand fuselage side, I used a combination of masking fluid and hairspray for the chipping, but the AK Gen 3 acrylic I used for the stripes didn't seem to react very well to the hairspray. For the remainder of the stripes I just used masking fluid, then went back in with a fine brush to refine the chips. The stripes on the right side are far more broken and worn than the ones on the left, so for this side I only masked and sprayed the forward area of the stripes ahead of the side hatch. The chips to the rear of the hatch were brush painted using screen shots as reference. One thing to note with the stripes is the area where they wrap around the chines. The forward stripe runs in line with the stripe running up the fuselage side, but the rear stripe is slightly off-set back from its corresponding fuselage stripe. The kit's decals don't reproduce this, but that's how the stripes are on the digital model used on the show, so I've copied it here. It's done this way on both sides of the fuselage. So, as I said above, that's the main painting finished. It's on to the weathering now which I'll start off with a pin wash to bring out the panels, then go from there. Andy
  11. Thanks Iwik, Yes, the kit is really too heavy to do that. A clear acrylic rod was included with the kit to support it, but even that wasn't strong enough so I swapped it for an aluminium one. Andy
  12. Beautiful colours Will. The pearl bow is lovely. I really like the way you've shaded the face to emphasise the empty eyes. Andy
  13. It's been a while since I joined in the fun on this thread, so I thought I'd follow Dennis' suggestion for an AT-DP profile. Not really a camo scheme on this one - more of a planetery security force machine. Now we just need Bandai to release a kit of one Andy
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