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Kev The Modeller

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Everything posted by Kev The Modeller

  1. Depending on how thick the flashing is, use some Tamiya extra thin quick setting cement. It will just melt the flashing away.
  2. I had Zap, pink, green and yellow CA. I never used the first 2 just the yellow, until it wouldn't set even with accelerator, I opened the other 2 they too wouldn't set. They had all gone off, absolutely no cling whatsoever, I then discovered CA has a shelf life of approximately 18 - 24 months. They were less then a year old (to me) but obviously been sitting on the sellers shelf and there no date info on the bottles. Wasted about £20. I now just but the little tubes of gel as and when saves wasting anymore money.
  3. I agree there is a lot of crossover. I found this very useful. If you still think you like more specific guidance go for or one of AVF/aircraft encyclopedias sets they do, you can just buy indualvidual volumes if you feel you don't need the whole set.
  4. I've not had any brush painting issues with them. I don't do much or really large areas, straight out of the bottle, onto a wet palette, on the the surface, couple coats done.
  5. As mentioned above take a look at air-craft these are top quality made to your spec fittings/length etc. I've got a couple, very flexible, beautifully finished
  6. I've got something very similar, works a treat. Keeps aircurrents out, dust etc from settling on wet surfaces and heat/cold air out while airbrushing. Mine is attached with velcro, easily removed if needs be, that said the window will close with it inplace once the vent duct is removed.
  7. Yes I agree, my comment of a 'quality' vent/extractor is that anything less (those previously mentioned IMHO) isn't up to the job of capturing/filtering non water based acrylics, which @Broadway states he want to try/use. The other vents mentioned are up to handling water based acrylic but not solvent or high use alcohol based acrylics.
  8. If you're going to start using anything other than true water based acrylics like AK, Mig Ammo, Vallejo etc, longterm, Tamiya and Mr Hobby Aqueous acrylics are alcohol based. You're going to need a quality extraction booth/vent, especially if you wish to use lacquers i.e. Tamiya LP, Mr Color, AK real, etc and most true metallic paint. There's really only one way to go, it's not cheap but it the best and will last a lifetime BV300S-D Martin is out of stock right now, reason they're good and sell fast. I tried the Sparmax and Aircom vents both cheaper but they aren't up to the job with lacquers especially when airbrushing, larger scale kits. I could still smell the vapour forcing me to wear a mask and the room stunk for a good while afterwards, even with a window open, which isn't good when applying top or clear coats. With the BV I can spray all but Zero and Alclad without smelling an odor and then it's just a hint, they're pretty smelly paints very high solvent content.
  9. Yes me too, got rid of Mac, Norton, AGV you name it, all of which cause more issues than they solve. My system runs faster and I've had no issues whatsoever for about 5 yrs or so. It's also free.
  10. This is sadly a too common issue with Airfix. I like many, grew up on their kits but I wouldn't touch one now just too hit and miss with customer service. It's all about profit above all else.
  11. I always wanted one of these, sadly pocket money wouldn't stretch. These were amazing craft, running (fuel) and maintenance costs killed them, as they couldn't carry enough and of course cut price ferry prices at the time, I believe. I was lucky enough to go on one in Nov 1999, a Hoverspeed SR.N4 from Dover to Calais, I think they stopped running they following year.
  12. It's a no brainer as far as I'm concerned, soldering is the way to go. Tin each part/section first, position with clips or plasticne etc and all that will be needed is a quick touch of very local heat for a solid join. The key to is quality, solder/flux and soldering iron and cleaning the areas to be soldered. Do a good few practice runs on scrap PE of varying shapes and thicknesses until you get a result time after time, the heat required once properly tinned is just a touch of the correctly heated soldering tip.
  13. Yes I've got a couple of these unfortunately Martin's out of stock at present as they sell fast, he's always getting new stock. Just one of these replaced 2 of Lightcrafts older tube jobs and they where top of the range. These are slightly smaller, use far less power and produce a lot more light, they are totally adjustable as is the level of light. Not cheap but well worth it.
  14. I think you'll find they're both the same size.
  15. Yep it's that easy, they're very fragile. If you suffer a sticky or heavy needle action put some cleaner, it's needs to be hot so Mr Tool or cellulose etc in the colour cup, let it sit for a bit some back flushing and slowly work the trigger, until it's free.
  16. What often happens is the nozzle aperture widens during use, or if you push the needle in slightly too too much and lock up it up. Constant on off over time widens the aperture, the nozzle is very thin and soft material.
  17. Try here it's for the Evo and infinity but most parts are common, if you contact Martin (email) he'll be able to confirm, I'd be very surprised if it didn't fit.
  18. I'm the same as Dennis although not exclusively 1.32 builder, I just feel my current skill level can't do the the kit justice. I'll be closely following the build which looks like is off to a great start
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