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About pg265

  • Birthday 03/20/1967

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  • Location
    South West of FRANCE
  • Interests
    Flying, Surfing, Building kits, Race cars, Planes...

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  1. Hi, This is really an impressive job Dan! The armor plates look perfectly cut which mustn’t be so easy. Same thing with the assembly of all those big and surely pretty heavy parts… Awesome work as the design and conception of this “mod” must required a loooot of time. Bravo Dan! Pascal
  2. Good afternoon, Thank you! The structure is painted and the assembly of the elements continues. I made the connector that supplies the rear brake and clutch master cylinders by soldering copper wire. It's easier for the front brakes. Shock absorbers are installed. The springs are painted black, but they are a bit short…and very stiff to stretch them! So I quickly turned shims 6.2mm in diameter for 0.5 in thickness: impeccable! (Perfect) The front box is gradually being completed. First, the small tank that comes in the kit needed a bit of work. I started to take care of him, but was not satisfied with what I would obtain… I made a new one. It is turned in a log of 2024 (…) detailed with strips of Speed tape and equipped with a brass tenon also taken out of the lathe. The front bulkhead is riveted. Next soon. Pascal
  3. Good evening, Thank you! Well, that's it, we now have 12 intake mesh! The engine is almost finished, it is necessary to take care of the front. The parts are prepared and test fitted to make sure that there are no anomalies. Masks are made and identified: the chassis frame was painted black and the aluminum sheets riveted on it. Then we weld the front partition for more solidity and a better visual aspect in the continuity/junction of the tubes. The assembly is again tested in its location to validate a final installation without problem. The seat, the dashboard, the arch and the support of the rear fins do not seem to be a problem either. More soon. Pascal
  4. Good evening Mates, Thanks a lot for your comments! @Malc2: this is a mesh with 100 wires per inch. @Roger Holden: I use small medical grade scissors as Malc2 does. They are perfect and I use them for years, cutting PE, decals, all my thermo formed parts like windshields… And now the 12 stacks mesh covers are done. Just need to spray Alclad Alu. Pascal
  5. Good evening, Thank you guys! Sad day for the tifosi, the Scuderia, motorsport enthusiasts. A great man left us today, Mauro Forghieri joined the other legends of motor racing. The 312B is now an orphan. The assembly continues with the intake funnel mesh. To do this, MFH offers a tool for mesh shaping. Thanks to which we obtain… NOTHING! Nada! Niente! So I quickly turned a small tool to achieve the result that suits me. I didn’t enjoy the provided mesh more than that: the mesh is too wide and the material does not hold the shape as much as it should in my opinion. So I did some tests with tighter mesh steel and 100 mesh brass too. The best result is, without a doubt, the one obtained with brass. For ease of forming and holding, the grid is annealed. Test on stacks: I have currently made the set for a cylinder bank. The shape is much better, a coat of Alclad will give the expected shade. More very soon. Pascal
  6. Hello, With the Dino 256F1 now complete, another victorious Ferrari at Monza shows the tip of its nose: The Ferrari 312B. Bye bye V12 and hello flat 12. The hull is prepared, which required a little work, then it is drilled in order to be riveted. The two elements of the under tray are welded, the cockpit walls are assembled blank to validate the assembly in the hull. The engine is also assembled , as is the gear box. Some modifications are planned on the engine. Some panels are riveted because they will remain (slightly…) visible. Then the whole is assembled and welded quite roughly (strong and invisible) on the chassis. A test validated the positioning of the parts of the bucket, the engine and its upper plate. The welded frame/bathtub unit fits well into the body. The front part, in particular the box of the nose gear is being prepared with all its elements. It is mounted here blank in order to validate the positioning: - the oblique partition, - hot air extractor, - the sharp nose of the beautiful red monster. These preparation and adjustment phases are long, time-consuming and laborious, but nevertheless necessary. A lot of drilling, preparation, tests... are carried out on the engine and the accessories. The injection pump is mounted, the “banjos” oriented in the right direction for the order of injection. The main elements of the box are assembled. The pedal box and the master cylinder support await installation in the front box. Drilling the duct that directs the air from the Naca muzzle intake was no small feat… The assembly of the elements of the front of the car seem promising. Let’s take out the masking tape, the “Maskol” for a little masking session. The parts are then primed. To finally receive a first coat of Alclad. The parts are ready for finishing and assembly of the main elements. I didn't go into too much detail as almost everything is hidden. Only the mechanical pump that I added will be detailed. The shading and highlights are mostly done, except on the top of the block for the reason mentioned above. It remains only to cut the tail of the “Tyraps”. Same thing for the gearbox. Maybe I'll make the master clutch control cylinder... More soon. Pascal
  7. Good evening Modeling Mates, Thank you very much once again! I’d loooove to cross the Channel to meet you and to discover the Telford show… But not this year. We talked about it with a friend of mine last week and plan to participate maybe next year. It’s a long way for us as we are from SW of France and pretty expensive. The Dino and few of her friends/sisters will participate to the Cholet exhibition next week-end, but I did not proceed to any entry to the contest: just an exhibition to enjoy kits with friends! Pascal
  8. Good evening Gentlemen, The frame of the Dino is provided with pieces of tubes intended to accommodate a quick riser. So...I made one. I started from a vintage photo. The brass wheels are turned, the tubes, of the same material, are folded and welded. I made small copper washers as side stops for the wheels. It only remains to paint it in the same gray as the chassis. Here are some pictures. The nuts are locked! Pascal
  9. Good evening, Thank you all for your feedback and patience with this WIP. Thank you so much for all your kind comments. As I didn't know what to do (…) and I didn't find the hood fitted well enough, I took it back, with care(!), but that's it, it's good. The last rivets are placed, the traces of exhaust made… I hesitate to dirty it a little. Here are some pictures, I will definitely do more. His future home and, incidentally, transport box is complete. I don't really have a dedicated presentation base at the moment. The Dino will be presented on…a A330 porthole. An accessory to possibly accompany it is under study, barely started. The next one will be… Red! Again on the 12th. Most certainly another Dino who also only left the places of honor to the other competitors. But I'm not immune to getting into a 12-cylinder, or even a sport prototype... Pascal
  10. Good evening, Thank you! I decided to modify the headrest/backrest fixing system. I first fixed the steel plate with adhesive film behind the « leather » part without integrating the rivets. I then installed flush magnets in the pre-drilled rear tip. This makes it very easy to remove the part to see what is happening under the hull. Side tanks are riveted, fitted with filler caps and modified to install vents. They are then mounted and strapped to the chassis, connected to the fuel circuit. The vents are attached to the frame tubes and connected to the rear center tank filler neck. The exhausts are definitively fixed and the bodywork parts fitted for a small test. The mobile oil and fuel hatches are in place. Pascal
  11. Hello, Thanks so much for your comments! @SprueMan: the yellow coat is here to “unify” the base for the final coat as there might be different shades due to various materials: White Metal (grey) resin (white)… even if the primer from Gravity is really great! The clear coat is now dry. In order to be consistent with the Grand Prix period, I: - added mat base, - slightly "over-diluted", - sprayed in 2 very fine passes (one veil, one wet), - "scratched" very slightly with 12000. A veeery light film of Carnauba is wiped with a soft cloth. It vibrates less! The wheels are therefore balanced, with a lead wire as at the time, equipped with their inflation valve. Pascal
  12. Hi, Well… I must admit that MFH kits are not easy to build, but they are not toys! The screws are good but holes need to be drilled and tapped. White Metal parts sometimes need to be bent or aligned. The kit are heavy and that’s why supports are provided. The wheels are just parts to put together… a test fit is useful and allow a smooth assy. Resin ducts are ok and fit well if the assembly on which they are supposed to be installed is correctly built. I think (my 2 cents…) that it’s a bit easy to say that a hard kit to build doesn’t worth the money you spent. There are enough MFH builds on the web and on the forum to réalisé it’s not a Trumpeter toy or a magical Tamiya kit. MFH makes complex kits, of race cars not treated by other manufacturers, with various and specific materials which need a bit of work : Multi media kits. I would have been more interested than the bin to receive the kit. I only build MFH kits with great pleasure and not too bad result for me. Best regards, Pascal
  13. Good evening, The straps are shaped on the tanks, equipped with fixing plates, primed and painted. Same thing for fresh air ducts painted gray. The aluminum will be sprayed over the masked part. Painting session for small elements. The air ducts are painted and installed on the car. The rear view mirrors are just waiting for… their mirror. We are not immune to a clear coat attack... Well, well, of course, I took in the face the thing I was not immune to!… I was not happy with the top of a shock. I redid it using a 1/10th shaped aluminum strip, all that remains is to paint. I didn't really know what to do while waiting for the varnish to dry... I decided to make a small bungee cord and a container to collect the overflow of coolant. More soon. Pascal
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