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About Jasonb13

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    'Looks good from a distance' modelling
  • Birthday 11/13/1973

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    Naas, Ireland

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  1. Well I'm afraid this has gone on the back burner! I got the wiring done on the other side of the engine, but then life got in the way and I lost my Modelling Mojo and haven't been to the bench in nearly three months. So it's now parked in the garage and I'm started a far simpler kit to see if I can get my mojo going. I will eventually get back to this, so watch this space!
  2. No worries, thanks for getting back to me!
  3. So I've got a 1:72 Hasegawa 'Betty' bomber with the Ohka. The four decal schemes that come with it are either March 1945 or April 1945. Am I right in thinking that I can enter this GB if I build the April ones?
  4. Fair play for the invite, I really enjoyed doing the French P-47 the last time. I actually have a Rafale-M in the stash, so if you don't mind yet another Rafale, count me in!
  5. Yes, that would be it! A nice easy introduction to paper models! You should watch the movie, it's quite good...
  6. Thanks Dave... Haven't started yet, but it's a model from the movie Howl's Moving Castle. If you don't know it, steampunk is probably the easiest way of describing it.
  7. Thanks for your reply, very helpful! Some glue actually came with the kit, I tried it last night on some scrap paper from the kit's book and it worked really well actually, so I might just give that a go! First time for everything...
  8. Thanks for your replies. It looks like Copydex is easy to get, but I've read that it has a fishy smell. Anyone know if that smell goes away when it dries, or are you let with a smelly model?
  9. Hi all... I got my hands on a paper model and am going to make a start on it. Just looking for some advice on a good glue for it. It basically seems to be PVA, either School Glue or Craft Glue (whatever the difference is!) but most of the brands recommended online are in the US. Any suggestion for good glue I can get in Ireland or the UK? Thanks...
  10. One side of the engine compartment done. There's still some dry-fitting here, the 'junction box' is only temp. stuck on to the back of the monocoque, and the exhaust sensor is only dry-fitted as the exhaust aren't finished yet, but it gives a decent idea of how it will look... The lower silver radiator pipe, the various black tubing and the red covers and exhaust sensor are all scratch-built. Fairly basic, but it gets the message across.
  11. Thanks Spiny, that looks very interesting, will definitely order some. And I get a UV Torch as well, what's not to like? As it happens, I've chickened out (ha, autocorrect changed this to 'thickened out', which unfortunately is also true!) and decided to once again delay working on the clear plastic. Most of the additional detail in this build is from me avoiding that clear plastic! So I'm going to work on finishing the engine compartment first. This will involve gluing in the other radiators, adding some scratch-built radiator pipes and wiring etc., and finish painting/weathering the exhausts and adding them in too. Once that is done then there's really nothing left for it, I have to face those ejection pin marks!
  12. Thanks! Not sure if it's courage though, more stupidity! For example, I'm now looking at the engine cover, which is made up of several parts. There are numerous ejection pin marks, which I've made a start on, but clearly need a lot of work! Here's what I reckon I have to do to get the above parts done... 1. Get rid of the ejection pin marks. 2. Completely mask (inside and out) the half that's staying clear. 3. Prime in black the inside of the other half, and associated parts, and then mask it off 4. Prime in pink the outside of the other half and associated other parts. 5. A couple of coats of red over the pink. 6. Assemble that half. 7. Final red coats. 8. Mask out the exhaust section on that half, spray it black and then mask over it. 9. Remove all masks from the clear half, leaving only the masks on the inside black and outside exhaust black sections. 10. Assemble the clear half and then Ultra Gloss all over the whole completed engine cover. 11. Cut Decals in half and apply them to one half of the piece. 12. More Ultra Gloss all over. 13. Unmask the inside black, put some normal gloss over it. 14. Carbon fibre decals over that inside black section, and then matt coat over that. 15. Aluminium foil over some of that Carbon Fibre Section. 16. Remove any remaining masks. So that's a lot of work for an engine cover, and I still don't know how to get rid of the ejection marks really well, and I don't know the best glue to use that will dry completely clear for the clear sections I'm gluing together that won't have paint on them. There's a fine line between a mental exercise and just bloody mental...
  13. Thanks! If I wasn't getting so caught up in details this would have been done last year!
  14. Nearly a month on, and I'm still alive, and still slowly working on this. It's mainly slow because I get so little time at the bench, but it's also slow because I keep changing my mind on what details to do, and how to do them. As I said, I decided to give some 2K gloss a go, and went with AK Ultra Gloss as it was easier for me to get. I did some testing with some spoons and it turned out well enough, and seemed fairly forgiving too! When deciding on the gloss, I also had to decide what to do with the carbon fibre side. Do I gloss it too? Leave it natural, or matt? Some research showed me that for F1 cars the natural carbon fibre can be 'keyed' before it's painted/varnished, and that leaves it matt. Thinking that the matt would be a good contrast with the other side being gloss, I went with that. So I glossed the parts, then put the decals on. and here's how they looked... Nice and shiny! I then spent far too long trying to get the front wing 'side piece' covered in carbon fibre decals. It's just a single piece, and the various curves and fins etc. meant to took a lot of fiddly work to get it halfway decent... Next up was more masking and the matt being sprayed on one half. And then all I had to do was assemble. Of course, that decided to be really awkward! The front wing wasn’t too bad, but the back wing was a nightmare. After doing the bottom section of the wing, the upper sections turned out to be longer, and wouldn't fit, unless I had the sides of the rear wing at an angle. In the end I had to cut maybe 1-2mm off the upper rear wings to get them to fit. This had two consequences; they've lost some of their shine (and I plan to try to gloss them again) and the demarcation line is now not quite central, which is really annoying. It's slight though and I'm going to have to learn how to live with it. Here's how the wings look... The demarcation line not being central is most obivous on the rear wing in the last picture! Next up are two steps I wasn't planning to do, but now have to. Firstly, I'm going to try to carefully mask the whole rear wing section and get it glossy again, as it has lost some of its shine. Then, because I decided to go with glossy Carbon Fibre on one side and Matt on the other (and made that decision about a year too late!) I also have to go back and try to carefully mask the undertray section to get that half and half glossy/matt as well. Fun and games!
  15. I got the masking done and the black painted, and here's how the wings look now... Not unlike the underside of a early 1940 Spitfire Mk. 1! So they're now ready for gloss, and I have to figure out what gloss to use. I'm not used to doing cars, this is only my 3rd, but I know how important the gloss coat is. I'm leaning towards one of the two component ones, like Zero 2K Clear Coat or AK Ultra Gloss, I'll see what I can read up on (and can buy easily!).
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