Giorgio N Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 22 hours ago, giemme said: Speaking of those fairings, I'll shameless take advantage of your knowledge and ask you if you have any reference pics of that area, as I can't determine if there are any panel lines where they meet the fuselage or if they are flush ... my search on Internet so far has been unsuccessful Ciao I checked on the pictures I have and couldn't find any definitive answer yet. I'll see if I can find anything in the "Nomenclatore", I have a feeling that the fairings are attached over the fuselage skin but I want to find proper proof of this or not 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 11, 2017 Author Share Posted May 11, 2017 17 minutes ago, Giorgio N said: I checked on the pictures I have and couldn't find any definitive answer yet. I'll see if I can find anything in the "Nomenclatore", I have a feeling that the fairings are attached over the fuselage skin but I want to find proper proof of this or not Thanks G. I did check on the Assembling and Maintenance Handbook, but to no avail; thanks in advance fo rany info you can provide Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giorgio N Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 Found a picture confirming that at least the front fairing is indeed attached over the fuselage skin, meaning that there is a small step given by the thickness of the skin of the fairing. The fairing seems to be riveted on. I couldn't find anything on the rear fairing but considering the structure of the fuselage as shown in the Nomenclatore, I'd say that the same applies here. The picture is in the Mushroom book on the Mc.202 The best way to reproduce this feature in scale is IMHO to wrap some foil around the fairing, leaving some excess that will repdoduce the skin going over the fuselage. Onto this, you can then reproduce the rivets using for example a syringe needle cut to a straight edge. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 11, 2017 Author Share Posted May 11, 2017 23 minutes ago, Giorgio N said: The picture is in the Mushroom book on the Mc.202 Of course! I knew I had seen it somewhere! Thank you also for the tip on how to reproduce the effect I did something similar in the past, on my BF109 G-6 build, but using Tamiya tape for curves. Will see. TA Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 12, 2017 Author Share Posted May 12, 2017 (edited) Third update in a week, better slow down a bit here, what do you think? Anyway: resuming the work on the C202 tail wheel fairings and bay; next pic shows a seam in the bay that needs to be dealt with Tail wheel dry fit in position; not much of the seam remains visible, still it's there. I did try with filling in, scraping and micro-sanding with a Dremel tool, but because of its recessed position, I wasn't able to attain a satisfactory finish. So I thought of covering it with a thin plastic strip: which has been cut to the right width, bent and glued in place with CA and Tamiya Green Cap along the edges. The plastic strip comes from a yogurt cup, the kind that has an external cardboard shell, allowing for a very thin plastic cup inside (I'd say it is around 0.1mm) Once the glue had set, I trimmed the excess plastic using a razor blade, and reinstated the wheel mounting hole: The fairings received some TLC too: I had to use diamond files to reshape them properly, then the usual sanding and polishing tools. Better, don't you think? Front fairing glued in place with some CA gel on the mounting peg and Tamiya Green Cap along the edges same for the back fairing Everything was left to set before I try to reproduce the front fairing lip that connects to the fuselage Meanwhile I also worked on the C205 fuselage seams, but also on an annoying dent visible just aft of the hump, port side (see red circle in next pic) Filled in with CA glue, then sanded and polished and some panel line rescribing: Working on the bottom seam took longer than I thought, but there it is: Another nice gap into the wheel well to deal with, but that's for next time. Any comments welcome Ciao Edited May 12, 2017 by giemme 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonl Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 You make it look too easy! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 Yet more wonderful attention to detail! I sometimes seriously don't know how you have the patience! Hope you have a great weekend. KInd regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 12, 2017 Author Share Posted May 12, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, Leonl said: You make it look too easy! What exactly? 38 minutes ago, PlaStix said: Yet more wonderful attention to detail! I sometimes seriously don't know how you have the patience! Hope you have a great weekend. KInd regards, Stix Cheers Stix, thanks As for the patience, I'm somewhat regretting I've embarked in this double build: I think I need to focus on one model at a time Anyway, now that I'm in I'll carry on at my best, but I don't think I will repeat the experiment. Hope you have a great weekend too. Ciao Edited May 12, 2017 by giemme 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 As soon as I started reading the update I thought 'I bet it would be easier to cover the seam with thin plasticard'....I should have known you'd beat me to it Giorgio!! Keith 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 12, 2017 Author Share Posted May 12, 2017 14 minutes ago, keefr22 said: As soon as I started reading the update I thought 'I bet it would be easier to cover the seam with thin plasticard'....I should have known you'd beat me to it Giorgio!! Keith Great minds think alike, Keith Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob85 Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 More excellent details giemme and cunning fixes, keep it up! Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 15, 2017 Author Share Posted May 15, 2017 (edited) On 13/5/2017 at 09:45, rob85 said: More excellent details giemme and cunning fixes, keep it up! Rob Cheers Rob, thanks Hi everybody, usual WE progress report. Last update I mentioned the trouble I had with the C205 bottom fuselage seam; here's how it looks after I brush painted some Vallejo primer on Pretty good, except here: Tricky spot, quite concave. I used the rounded corner of a small steel plate I had around to get rid of that seam, and also ran over it a bit of Tamiya Green Cap. Which was also used to glue in place another yogurt cup cutout, roughly of a trapezoidal shape and curved around a toothpick, to hide the bigger seam you see inside the tail wheel bay: More on the C205; the rudder, compared to the C202, should extend more towards the front, where the tape is in next pic: You can see I had already filled in the top line with some CA; here it is after rescribing, compared to the drawings after much sanding and polishing and cutting through with razor saws: Just like on the C202, I also separated the bottom part of the rudder from the fuselage Now back on the C202; I applied some PPP along the back tail wheel fairing but I'm still not happy about how it blends into the fuselage tail cone, it should be much more tapered ... It'll probably need more filing, shaping and polishing. Will see. C202 gun cover: there are two cowling vents right on the front of it, which are moulded solid. TO give the impression that they're open, I used my INCIDO and a scriber: I'll have to do the same on the bottom engine cowl, on which there are three of them One of the task I've been procrastinating for a while concerns the main wheel well; here's a dryfit of the kit parts Nasty ejector pin marks inside the fuselage halves, as you can see. Should have spotted them before, really There are some on the parts composing the wheel well, too Got rid of the fuselage ones, with some TLC The actual wheel well was considerably busier than what the kit offers, stuffed with pipes and plumbing and cables, so this will take some time (and some diversions, to preserve my own sanity ) C202 wings: the red circles show the hatches that have to be filled in (many of them were there only on C205 Serie III, not even on the C202 or the C205 Serie I) As mentioned earlier, the C202 I'm building is of a very early production (Serie III); that means no wing guns, probably not even the predispositions for them. I saw a drawing in one of the book I have for reference showing no hatches at all, but I don't know how much I can trust it (I found it not very precise on other things I had already clarified). Any ideas? What is sure is that, since there are no wing guns on this specific airframe, there are also no spent cases slots on the bottom wings, so I had to fill in the kit ones: Put some tape on them ... and filled in from inside with CA + talc That didn't flow in as expected, leaving some gaps: So I did fill them in again (from the bottom this time, obviously ), sanded flat and applied some primer by brush to check them. That was last thing last night, no pics sorry, and I'll get back to this later this week. Comments welcome Ciao Edited May 15, 2017 by giemme 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matteo44 Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Compliments giemme... very great job! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giorgio N Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Yes, the wheel well was very busy. Hasegawa at least seems to have reproduced the geometry of the main structural members correctly 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spookytooth Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 So , you been a busy bee this weekend Giemme. Those annoying ejector pin marks get everywhere, and they turn up where ever too. Still getting there mate. Looking good from here . Simon. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonl Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 On 5/12/2017 at 2:58 PM, giemme said: What exactly? My point indeed! Us mortals look on in amazement. Nice update. What never fails to impress me is the attention to detail. Which has to come from either a very detailed knowledge of the subject or excellent reference materials. This is what I always lack, when I do find do find decent reference it is very hard to scale the visible detail down to look 'right'.... This is what you do very well you reproduce the right amount of detail so very well... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 15, 2017 Author Share Posted May 15, 2017 3 hours ago, matteo44 said: Compliments giemme... very great job! Cheers Matteo, thanks! 2 hours ago, Giorgio N said: Yes, the wheel well was very busy. Hasegawa at least seems to have reproduced the geometry of the main structural members correctly Agreed. But I had a headache last night just looking for a few minutes at some ref pics of that wheel well I need to come up with a cunning plan for the (sub)assembly ... 1 hour ago, Spookytooth said: So , you been a busy bee this weekend Giemme. Those annoying ejector pin marks get everywhere, and they turn up where ever too. Still getting there mate. Looking good from here . Simon. Thanks Simon! Not actually that busy, modelling-wise, as I had lots to do with my yard (two weeks of rain/sun/rain and mild temperatures made for an exceedingly fast grass growth ) Ejector pin marks are the modeller's damnation 2 minutes ago, Leonl said: Nice update. What never fails to impress me is the attention to detail. Which has to come from either a very detailed knowledge of the subject or excellent reference materials. This is what I always lack, when I do find do find decent reference it is very hard to scale the visible detail down to look 'right'.... This is what you do very well you reproduce the right amount of detail so very well... Thank you, that is very nice of you to say, Leon I do try to retrieve the best reference material available when I do a build, and of course Internet makes things a lot easier in that respect; plus, there's always some BM friend that is ready to chime in with help and links about the subject, too I have to say my best build to date (I mean the one I enjoyed more from start to finish, including the end result) is Sandy Bay-Bee, Gene K's F-4C Phantom II; first hand knowledge and info from him and a few others involved in Rhinos, plenty of support (and pushing ) from other BM mates - so I could unleash my attempts in reproducing details and enjoy the whole process Typical BM style, anyway, just like on this thread Ciao 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giorgio N Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 1 hour ago, giemme said: Agreed. But I had a headache last night just looking for a few minutes at some ref pics of that wheel well I need to come up with a cunning plan for the (sub)assembly ... When I built my 1/72 Mc.202, I started by adding the structural members (that in the 72 kit are not present while most are moulded in plastic in your 1/48 kits). With hindsight I regretted this because in the end I struggled to fit a few cables/pipes that were below the structural members. Of course with your kit having these parts in plastic you may want to think twice before chopping them off... Then I proceded adding the various bits "by size", meaning that I added the larger pipes first, followed by other pipes and cables of increasibly smaller diameter. Most important is to leave the lower and upper cowling parts off untile the detail in the bays are completed, you'll need access from every possible point. The presence on the Hase parts of a representation of the engine rear part may be good but may be bad. In the real aircraft the structural members visible in the wheel weels are actually the supports for the engine bearer frame so they go all the way to the engine. There's also no rear wall behind the engine, with the engine being accessible through the wheel wells. Cutting that wall from the Hase parts would allow you to operate with tweezers on the wheel wells from the front, so making things a bit easier. When I'll do this job again, I'll likely proceed "top down", that is starting from those details that are buried deeper into the wheel well. May not be always possible though, as some cables have to go around other parts and it's hard to put them in place without those parts. And just to complicate things, again all the various pipes and cables are colour coded... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 15, 2017 Author Share Posted May 15, 2017 Thanks G! I see your point, but I was actually thinking of trying to assemble the biggest part of the piping/cabling on the wings, laying on this structure: I was also thinking of replacing the front part with a scratch built one, 'cause I'd like to put in a real pipe, instead of that chunky piece of rounded plastic you see there; I was also thinking along the line of assembling part of the structure, paint it and then insert pre-painted segments of wire or whatever I end up to use to represent the piping/cabling ... this all in theory, because I first need to complete the dry fit of the bay inserting all the wheel struts and actuators etc. BTW, intrigued by one of Di Terlizzi's build, I'm also considering scratch building the wheel bay covers for the C205 ... Ciao 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 More wonderful details for us to enjoy, Giorgio. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Nice to see more interesting progress Giemme. King regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 15, 2017 Author Share Posted May 15, 2017 3 hours ago, Cookenbacher said: More wonderful details for us to enjoy, Giorgio. 2 hours ago, PlaStix said: Nice to see more interesting progress Giemme. King regards, Stix Thank you for your support, guys! Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 I really admire your consistency of updates Giorgio, it's great to see such good modelling progress every Monday! Keith 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 (edited) Wonderful stuff G. That attention to detail is sublime. John Edited May 20, 2017 by The Spadgent 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 23 hours ago, giemme said: Tricky spot, quite concave. I used the rounded corner of a small steel plate I had around to get rid of that seam Haven't you got the scribing gizmo for concave areas Giorgio? More meticulous and beautifully neat work 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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