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Found 1,206 results

  1. Hi folk's,hoping it's third time lucky after m issing the deadline on the last two GB,s I'm gonna have a go at Revell's re-pop of the Matchbox Spitfire. apologies for it not being an original but at just over a tenner at a recent sale it had to be worth a punt.I know I had a crack at this kit many moons ago when new and can guess at what would have been for the younger me an over complicated build never got far! So a nice relaxed OOB build on the card's don't care about the fault's or innaccuracies I need after a five week lay off a mojo kickstart,see you soon.
  2. So I don’t know about anyone else but I was super excited about these kits I couldn’t wait to get my hands on the pelican and the warthog especially after seeing their prototype models however after seeing them in my local model shop I almost wanted to cry they looked terrible! What is with Revell kits lately!
  3. H's Clutch of Mud Hens.

    I was planning on doing just the F15E with bombs but can't resist a bit of orange, so will be doing the Tiger meet too. I have the RetroWings goodies from Domi to enhance the cockpits & burners. Obligatory box shots ready to start.
  4. Revell is to release in 2017-2018 a new tool 1/32nd North American P-51D Mustang kit - ref. 03944 Source: http://www.kitreviewsonline.de/revell-neuheiten-fuer-das-jahr-2017/ V.P.
  5. Here is my conversion of the revell new ju 88 a-4 kit converted to a s-1 of 1/kg66 operation stienbock april 44. Using aims parts, squadron canopie, extracolor paints.streched sprue aerials .
  6. Yes THAT red triplane.

    Hi folk's,Wolwe's recent superb posting got me to hankering to add the famous red triplane in a larger scale to the collection at some pointEduard's 1/48 offering being the kit of choice as I previously built Kempf's machine in one of their boxing's Anyway My LMS is clearing out Revell kits at discounted prices and out I came with the ancient 1/28 scale kit! 1957 is stamped on the molding but for a tenner for a fun build who cares,what I wanted feedback on was what finish in reality did this aircraft have? I know it was red so as on the 1/72 scale kit I did the metal cowl can be shaded differently but would there have been different shades on other surfaces with differing depths as I want to build it wart's and all without adding this and that AM (if indeed there is any) Agood paint job might make a difference,so tips and techniques from you WWI modeller's please.
  7. So finally, after many months of delay due to 'family things' I've found some time to post a few images of my finished Enterprise! You can see my 'work in progress' thread at Revell Enterprise NCC1701 (TOS) - My First Model, which includes lots of photos, some better than these tbh. As mentioned previously, this was my first model. I've learned a lot so far and enjoyed every minute of the build (apart maybe from masking the windows before paint spraying). I really need to get a decent camera and video camera. I used my phone and these are pretty poor quality, the video is pretty dark and shakey too so sorry about that I also need to create a work-in-progress post for my Revell Klingon D7 that I've started, but havent worked on for a while. Anyway, here they are.... I plan to add some weathering in future models and to be a bit more adventurous when it comes to correcting inaccuracies in the model compared to the TV/Movie models. But, for a first model I'm very happy with this
  8. Finished these two this morning: The 'gold' one is Revells' 1999 (slab-side) Chevy Monte Carlo built almost straight from the box, I lowered the ride-height about 1.5mm as I do with all my NASCAR builds. The decals are from Powerslide, printed by Cartograf these decals are just about the best for automotive modellers transfers available. Perfect register no translucence at all. The 'orange' one is again a Revell kit and again built as it comes except for the ride-height. It's the 2000/03 Ford Taurus, this time with JWTBM decals. Both models are painted with Tamiya acrylics, both aerosol - straight from the rattle-can - & jar colours. * * * 1999 Skoal Chevy Monte Carlo driven by Ken Schraeder. Raced in these colours in just four races in the '99 season - there were also a metallic green, metallic blue and (usual) metallic green schemes. AFAIK these four beautiful schemes were used because this was Skoal's last NASCAR Winston Cup season - I believe they have returned in recent years, but I'm not certain. 2001 Tide Ford Taurus driven by Ricky Craven. Regular racing colours (there were specials), one of the brightest and most recognised liveries in all of NASCAR. As ever thanks for taking the time to look and/or comment. Please feel free to make any criticism or ask any questions. Already on with my next two car projects (the Porsche 911 GT1 & LaFerrari), and well in to planning for my next NASCAR build. AFN Ian.
  9. This one's for Arlo

    As an aircraft enthusiast, you will usually see my WIP threads in the aircraft section of Britmodeller. However, my son is crazy about cars, and for my birthday brought me my first car kit. So here I am, for the first time in the vehicle section, building for Arlo. His choice of vehicle in this instance is Revell's 1:32 Opel GT, I am almost certain he chose this kit because the car is orange (his favourite colour). This is a level 3 kit, and inside the box you have the outer shell of the car, 2 sprues (with flash), the tyres (makes a change to have real tyres!) and a clear sprue. There is also a small sheet of decals, and full colour instructions. I have to admit I'm slightly out of my comfort zone here, but I hope I can do Arlo proud.
  10. Fw 190 D-9

    Thought I would quickly get something up here before I get to the painting stage of my latest, the Revell boxing of Hasagawa's handsome 190 D-9 in the large scale. I seem to have taken a long time with this one and made life difficult for myself by ever-so slightly misaligning the wing spar which then throws out other areas of the wing to fuselage joint. I managed to get it perfect on only one side, the other side and the under-fuselage insert requiring more work than I would like. As you can see the new technique beign tried out for the first time on this one is a full riveting job The underside with all that engine detail on view And a close-up of all those rivets (which took me forever), not perfect but hopefully will look OK under a couple of layers of paint
  11. Man 5t 4x4 Truck.

    Hi Folk's,it's been a good few month's since I attempted any non flying military subject and as my LMS has a 40% off Revell kit's I thought I would see what was on the shelf and as a lover of soft skins this one caught my eye.I had a good look around a British Army version at the Sunderland airshow and would have loved to do it in British colour's but there seems to be a lot of differences between the German version and our's anyway the NATO scheme should look good when done.At just over thirteen quid it's a lot of kit for the money.
  12. A last year I did Airfix's 1/32 Crusader Mk.III tank. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234998810-132-airfix-crusader-mkiii/ Loved the build so I thought I would see if I could get hold of an Airfix 1/32 Grant but I couldn't find one but I did manage to get hold of Revell 1/32 Lee so here is how I am getting on.As you can see from the last photo this isn't a young kit but for a 42 year old kit it hides its years rather well. Though the figures are not the best nor are the decals and the vinyl tracks are a bit long but the rest of the kit passes muster. The plastic quality isn't bad, the ejector pins are not in any places to give too much trouble and the detail looks right to me. My first job was to make the six bogie's. The parts needed a bit of tiding up but not too much. To get read of the seam lines on the wheels. This was done using my Dremel, a cocktail stick and piece of wet and dry stuck on a flat piece of wood.The cocktail stick are cheap but I found the chuck of my drill wasn't too keen on them as every now and then one tried to escape. So looking around my bench I spied a mandrel from my Dremel which has a thin screw which easily fitted the wheel.This worked perfectly and made the job of sanding the road wheels a faster. I had a piece of wire grill which I got from my spares box and I decided to replace the grill between the filler caps.So using small drill bits I got to work.Using a file and skinny sticks I smoothed down the sides. I cut the grill to size and I used plastic rod to make the inner frame for the grill to sit on.I had a look at the vision slots and I decided to drill them out and used scrap plastic as backing. I did this to give them a bit of depth and used the backing as I wanted the hull light tight.I did this for the turret as well. Regarding the turret I drill out the main gun barrel and the coaxial machine gun adding cooling vent holes to the as well.As you can see from the previous photo, the side door has a grab handle above it. As a rule I always replace plastic handles with metal ones if I can just because I don't want them to snap off later on and I think the look better. So using a bit of copper wire roughly the same thickness as the kit part I cut it to a usable size.I used a metal ruler to straighten the wire by rolling it under the ruler.Now using a flat pair of pliers I put the first bend in.At this point I was going to use a nice piece of kit made by RP Tools for making handles.But just my luck, the size of handle I wanted was where the pin is, so on to plan "B" and I made them the old way.So I first fitted the wire into one of the handle holes.Then I roughly placed the flat pliers where I wanted the second bend to be. Keeping the pliers in place I removed the wire from the hull and then I put the second bend in. If I wasn't happy with the bend, as I am using copper I just straightened the wire with the steel ruler and tried again. Anyway when I was happy I trimmed the wire ends to make it easier to fit.I then fixed them in place with CA glue.For the upper machine gun I used a syringe needles which was the same diameter as the kit part and I cut to size using my Dremel and a cutting disc. Then I glued in place with CA glue.I filled the tool locating holes on the rear deck as I was going to add my own tow cable made from twist thin copper wire. The reason for filling all of the holes as it allows to slightly move the location of each tool if I have to.I used plastic rod glued in the holes and I sanded when the glue has cured. Here is the kit tow cable.And here is the homemade one. These are easy and cheap to make. All you need in a hand drill.A vice and a screw. You put the screw in the vice with the head of the screw and about an inch of the screw shaft sticking out of the top of the vice and tighten the vice. For this cable I used two pieces of thin wire bent in half. The loose ends of the wire are placed in the drill chuck and tightened. The two loops at the other end are placed over the head of the screw in the vice. Now pull back slightly on the drill to straighten the wire and just turn the handle of the drill and watch it braid the wire. Stop when you are happy and cut to size. For the loop I bent the end of the wire then I used a small strip of soft aluminium then I used a drop of CA glue to keep it in place. I use aluminium sheet but you could use the aluminium off the top of wine bottles.Next I tidied up the shovel by removing the mounting strips, etc and the plastic that filled in the gap in the handle.Then I started to add the tools, cable, tarps, etc.The tarpaulins where made by just rolling a piece of soft aluminium and the shovel and cable strips where made from the same using CA glue to attach.Even with all the homemade additions for me this is a fast build. There has been a bit of filling but not as much as I first though. For me the kit antenna was a touch too thick and I knew would snap off in the future so I again used thin copper wire rolled and straightened as before.So I just cut off the kit antenna from its mount and I drilled a hole in the mount to take the wire. I then attached the antenna mount to the tank hull.I am not going to attach the antenna to the mount until I have finished painting the M3.
  13. Hi all, I've been here a few weeks now and though it was about time I showed you what I'm up to. I've very fond memories of watching Star Trek (TOS) as a kid in the 80's with my dad and my brother and it's one of the few things that has really stuck with me through changing times. The Enterprise itself I find mesmerising, it's graceful and each part of the ship has a clear purpose, a design classic and I love it. My favourite itteration has to be the refit, which I hope to build at some point in the future So, I got in to modelling because I wanted a decent model Enterprise, I've had a few very small die-cast models but they are always lacking something. I found the Revell kit online and decided that I'd build my own, LED lights and all. Now I've well and truly got the modelling bug, I've bought the Star Trek Starship Voyager for my next model, I've built a small Star Destroyer and plan to build models from Battlestar and other Star Trek models Here's some photos that I took while building my Enterprise, I wasnt originally planning on posting them online but then I found this place, so here it goes! 1. What a great start, I ruined my first model! I wanted to light my model with LEDs, so it had to be light-proofed. So the insides of the model had a coat of adhesion promoter, followed by black, then a silver or while coat would be painted to make it reflective. I was watching lots of Boyd's Trekworks Youtube videos for info and he used a heat gun on a gentle heat to aid the drying process.... I'll never do that again, my model melted You can see the plastic deformation from the heat in this image. It also shows my initial plan for lighting, which was to cover all windows with grease-proof paper, which diffuses the light, then placing LED's around the ship to light them up. 2. Saucer section interior is about ready So after buys a replacement model I started again, with a few important lessons learned This image shows the insides of the saucer section, painted and with the windows covered. I used 'Revell Contacta Liquid Special' to glue the clear windows in place, and to glue the greese-proof paper in place. The secondary hull, again with the inside prepared for lighting, it's had a black coat followed by a light coat to refelct the light. By this time I'd also started experimenting with LEDs, the breadboard in this photo had a 555 Timer chip and a 4017 Decade counter, they'll be used for the rotating lights of the Warp Nacells and the blinking navigation lights. 4.Let there be light! Not sure of the best positioning and arrangement of LEDs I just dove in with something that looked like it would give good coverage. I know some people use fewer but brighter LEDs, and some use LED tape/strips, which I might look at using in the future. Each LED has a resistor attached, and they're all in parallel, so if one should fail the others will continue to work. 5. Glue. After lighting the secondary hull in a similar way I was ready to glue a few parts together. Which I was pretty worried about as I considered it opportunity to ruin yet another model. I used Revel Contacta Professional glue and found my fears were unfounded, thankfully 6. Circuits To light this model I would need to build some circuits to handle the navigation lights and the rotating buzzard collector effects. So I bought the relevant gear from Maplin (I now use RS instead) and designed a few circuits in Pad2Pad, which is excellent free circuit design software. The first completed circuit was for the navigation lights, I was initially planning to put it inside the model but then decided I would fit it in the stand instead. 7. Warp Nacell Test #1 You saw my breadboard with a few components in an earlier photo. This is basically how the Buzzard Collector effect works on my model, The red, orange and green LEDs are aranged in a circle and give the impression of rotation. 8.Warp Nacell Circuit fitting After designing my Warp Nacell circuit in Pad2Pad, I printed it off, cut it out and placed it in it's intended final position to make sure it would fit. The circular plastic piece has holes drilled in it to receive the LEDs, 12 of them (for a single Nacell). 9. Assembled Warp Nacell Board After building the warp nacell board I fit it in place. Now you can also see how the LEDs sit. It's a pretty tight space so I was pleased that everything went in with no problems In the video below, the middle light isnt connected to any power, it will eventually be 'always-on' to provide a steady red glow. The camera doesnt really do the below any justice. 10. Closed up my first Warp Necell - and made my second big mistake It's amazing isnt it that you can do something, then the instant you finish you realise you've done it wrong. I guess it's not really that big a deal, the model isn't completely accurate anyway and I'd already decided that I would'nt worry about that this time. But this mistake was easily avoidably, yet at the crutial point I... put the wrong circuit in the wrong nacell, so the buzzard collectors now spin in the wrong direction. Only a Trek fan would notice, but it's annoying all the same. Still, after much grumpiness I think I can live with it. 11. Connecting the Pylons and the Seconday Hull. I'd already glued the warp nacells to the support pylons and let those set, I'd also done some work on removing the seams on all the parts glued so far. Now it was time to connect the wiring up and glue them to the secondary hull. With the wiring connected and the pylons glued on to the secondary hull, it looked like the area would be under a fair bit of stress, so I stuck a clamp in place to hold things together while they set. 12. Windows, I hate Windows I bought some masking fluid so that I could mask the windows, but found it to be far to imprecise and the results (of tests I did on my melted saucer section) were pretty messy. So after getting some advice right here on Britmodeller (thanks guys, you know who you are) I settled on masking the windows with masking tape. I used a scalpal to cut small rectangles working on one at a time. It took ages. I have used the masking fluid on a few of the larger clear pieces, but I'm still not impressed with the result, maybe I just need more practice with it! 13. All Masked, Time for the Primer With all the clear parts masked I bought myself a 'lazy suzan' and gave the entire ship a coat of Hycote Adhesion Promoter and then a nice coat of Hycote grey primer. No way was I going anywhere near this thing with a heat gun The wires you see here will eventually be fed through the stand in to the base. I found the Hycote cans give excellent fast coverage, pretty cheep too. 14. Base Color With the primer dry it was time to start mixing colours (as per the model instructions) and giving it some proper color. I used a 'Sparmax Arism Mini' Airbrush to spray the model, with Revel Aqua Color paints. I found that thinning the paint 2-parts paint to 1-part thinner worked pretty well. I'd aslo sprayed the deflector dish, I love that copper colour and started giving the warp nacell and impulse engines some colour. I was having trouble cutting the masking tape perfectly to cover the inside of the impulse engines, so decided to try the masking fluid. The result was not great but I think It'll look fine if I touch it up with a brush. So, that's my model so far. It's the first model I've ever build and while I've found it quite challenging I've really enjoyed it and plan to do many more in the future. I'll post more photos and videos as I make more progress. And thanks to everyone here for accepting me in to the site and giving me some great tips! Cheers
  14. Revell 1/48 Tornado ADV

    Sorry if I got anyone excited... just wondering if there was any news on this kit which is so obvously coming based on the internal frames in the GR.4 & IDS kits. If nothing else maybe a lot of interest in this thread will make Revell pull their finger out?
  15. Hello folks, back with another vehicle project: This time the excellent Revell ’65 Stepside. No chrome, low-profiles or carbon ceramic discs on this one, just good old sheet steel and skinny cross-plies and brakes the size of milk-bottle tops… …built straight from the box and painted in Tamiya acrylics (my own mix), great relaxing build with no vices apart from the bonnet/hood that doesn’t match the contours of the main body – apparently a common problem with this ‘family’ of molds. No matter I thoroughly enjoyed it. As ever please feel free to ask any questions or make any comments or criticisms. More car-builds soon, stay tuned. Ian.
  16. Here is my conversion of the revell 1/72 ju 88 c-6 to a g-6 using parts from john (aims models).paints used are all extracolor sprayed using a badger 200 g .marking of the ju 88 of 13/njg 3 that crashed at elvington 4 3 1945
  17. I'd like to join in this group build with a Revell reboxing of the Aerospatiale Dauphin - well, I say reboxing, but I don't even have the Revell box, I presumably discarded it for being the useless open-ended variety. But it is a re-pop of the Matchbox kit, anyway - I built one of the originals a long time ago, presumably not long after it first came out, and this Revell one has been in my stash for a while. I intend building it as the HH-65A Dolphin seen in 'Licence to Kill', so I know I need to make or acquire some different decals as that is the era of a white fuselage with red/orange details, and the last time I printed some decals I made up a set of the stripes with the USCG logo on (including duplicates, looking at the photo below I do have some going in the other direction too!). I may need to re-print these if the stripe colour looks off. Other than that hopefully the kit mostly portrays an early Dolphin. I notice I will need to make a winch, and an interior though! Anyway, My starting point: Tim
  18. Hi all, So these kits were built by my two sons (9 & 12) for the recent IPMS Ireland Nationals where they managed to scoop themselves Gold and Bronze respectively in the Juniors class. Myself and the missus are so proud of the boys as it's their first ever model builds and it's not normally their kind of thing. First up, Tom's bronze U-Wing. In terms of build, he painted some of the engine rear deck and engines with acrylics and the interior cabin and seats too. The guns got a coat of Steel.. Tom's_Revell_U_Wing Tom's_Revell_U_Wing (3) I then explained to Tom about how to do a wash to bring out the detail - this is lots of Flory Models dark dirt just wiped off after an overnight soak (we didn't Klear the model) And yes, the lights still work! Tom's_Revell_U_Wing (4) And the base he made for it - I printed out his chosen concrete design and he cut and glued it to an Ikea frame. Tom's_Revell_U_Wing (5) And with his winning gong.. Tom's_Revell_U_Wing (1) Hugh built Poe Dameron's X Wing from Force Awakens. Again, he painted some of the engine parts and I gave him a 1/72 pilot to paint which i superglued into the cockpit. (c'mon Revell, kids need crew for these fighters!) Hugh's_Revell_X_Wing_1 Hugh's_Revell_X_Wing_ (1) Hugh's_Revell_X_Wing_ (2) He then also gave it a wash but with Flory Models Grime wash. For his base, Hugh wanted to recreate the lake on Takodana from the movie so he used the toilet paper and white glue tip we found here on the Diorama forum. It's not that hard but just needs patience in leaving it to dry. He the gave it a good lashing of acrylic paints using green, black and brown followed by Klear. I then cut some coat hanger wire for him and stuck it in (the weekend's excitement means it needs a repair hence the blue-tac) Hugh's_Revell_X_Wing_ (4) Hugh's_Revell_X_Wing_ (5) And with his gong... Hugh's_Revell_X_Wing_ (6) And that's it. I must admit without any prizes, the lads were really excited to see their models on display with a host of other junior entries, right beside the 'Grown ups' table of super-detailed, super-builds. I don't know if the modelling bug has bitten either of them but they had plenty of fun and some good memories. Sorry about the pic-heavy post. Cheers, Dermot
  19. With a few hours to go before the starting gun, time to start my thread. This is Revell's retread of the Matchbox Twin Otter kit, of 1983 vintage. Box art: That rather attractive scheme is not going to be the subject, what with those odd round things hanging off the bottom. The kit's second decal option is for a West Coast Air Twotter in blue and white, an example of which one can see on Airliners.net: http://preview.tinyurl.com/ycp7deeq From what I can see, West Coast kept their aircraft very clean. Sprue shots; Revell haven't gone for the lurid Matchbox colours, so it's all in glossy grey. Revell provide a most bizarre double-ended paintbrush. One end is splayed to oblivion, the other appears to have been dipped in varnish before being sent out. Waiting for tomorrow to kick off!
  20. Dora Heinrich

    First serious bit of modelling I've attempted in about forty years – so guess that makes me a newbie! My first experience of photoetch, acrylics, airbrush... you name it. So I wanted to do a subject I felt a connection to, and something that would stretch me to the max. So it's Revell's 1/32 Schnellbomber which will assume the guise of 4D+DH 'Dora Heinrich' of 1.KG30.
 This Ju 88A-1 fell to the guns of 603 (City of Edinburgh) Squadron on 16/10/39 during a Luftwaffe raid on RN ships in the Firth of Forth. 'Dora' was the first enemy bomber downed by the RAF over the British mainland in WWII, and was on the receiving end of the first ever Spitfire victory.
 Born by the Forth, I have lived half my life on its banks, my family have worked for generations on its waters and in its docks and I live just a few miles from where 'Dora' ditched almost seventy-eight years ago. So I thought I'd make her the first half of a 1/32 'Dogfight Double'. Eventually I'll get around to tackling her nemesis – XT-A 'Stickleback' a MkIa Spit of 603 Squadron. Four months in, having too much fun, here's some (unfinished) pit shots. Apologise for quality – taken with an iPhone4 Cockpit side walls, still needs wiring/some piping added Eduard PE, Aims and homemade decals Floor and curtains printed on inkjet Pilot seat, control column and BZG2 Bombsight
  21. Paint problems

    Hello, I am new here. So I was assembling the revell 777-300er(zvezda repackaging), and I got the KLM decals from draw decals. My problem is, how do I paint the blue top of the plane, when I don't have spray paint, only paint brush, and I'd love if you guys helped me out. Thanks in adance!
  22. I am going to attempt to build this warps, warts and inacccuracies aside I hope it at least builds up looking like a Tomcat. I want an OOB build but I may have to use aftermarket decals. The kit decals look yellowed and real shiney, almost like "stickers" they are so shiny. I may try to find Grim Reapers in low vis or TPS scheme. I am also not going in any order, I follow the instructions but only as a general guide.---John tomcat 1 by jvandeu53, on Flickr tomcat 2 by jvandeu53, on Flickr
  23. Hi all, Kit manufacture: Revell Scale: 1/72 Type: Junkers JU 88A-4 Extras used: OOB except brass rod pitot and EZ line antenna Paints and colours used: Vallejo RLM colours (older type). Weathered with Flory Grime, and oil paints. All sealed with Aqua Gloss and flattened with Xtracylix matt varnish. I finished this one a little while ago but have only just got round to photographer her.A good kit this with generally good fit, but a couple of challenging areas. The wingtips being one of them... Beautiful surface detail though, and a wonderfully detailed cockpit.Here's the pics: That's about it. Thank you for stopping by! As always, comments, criticism and advice is always welcomed!Val
  24. Revell Victor

    Any comments welcome, it's the only way to improve ...
  25. Hi all! I completed the Revell Snowspeeder - It went together pretty well but I messed up in a few places, hopefully the mistakes aren't too noticeable . . . Let me know what you think
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