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Found 1,102 results

  1. Welcome to the RFI of my Revell Eurofighter Typhoon single seater 1/72. She is OOB except for the canopy which is a Pavla vac form one that I had to use as I killed the original. I scratched a few internal bits but apart from that she's box fresh. Painted in Tamiya acrylics and Vallejo metal colour with washes by Flory. The kit went together quite well a few bumps along the road but over all I'm pretty happy with the way she turned out. about half way through I decided to add the D-Day stripes which I'm really happy with. ( My first painted stripes ) I hadn't planned on taking the snaps yet but it was such a lovely sunrise this morning I decided to drag myself out of bed and take some snaps in the garden before heading off to see my old mum on Mother's Day. I think this one should be dedicated to her. The WIP can be found here. Without further ado let's get on with the pictures. I hope you like em. And that's your lot I hope you like them. Thanks to everyone for tagging along in the WIP and helping me through the tough bits and all the technical help. There are a few gaps and errors here and there but I'm happy and damned if I'm going back now. She's in the cabinet and that's that. I have started my new build thread here. If you fancy another joyous ride of the rum and uncanny. Take care and as always Happy Modelling. John.
  2. I have come to the conclusion that I have to start reducing the stash of model kits I have, starting with one that has been lurking in the bottom of the draw for the last 15 years. This is a model kit of the Deutsche Marine Type 143 Fast Attack Craft produced by Revell. Along the way I have lost the original packaging and there has been some minor damage to the mouldings on the sprue but nothing to prevent me building the model. I cannot remember why I bought the model in the first place, it was probably one of those spur of the moment things or I wanted to use it for bits, which was my want back in the distant past. However for whatever reason it was never cannibalised or built and has lain unloved until I saw a marketing picture of a completed model on the internet for the recently re-released kit. Having seen the picture my interest was rekindled and step one in stash reduction has been achieved. As I previously said, the box was lost along the way and some of the items have come off the sprue so I can’t start with the usual box and contents photograph so a picture of the new box art on the Revell website will have to do: I have to say that the new instructions with the re-released kit on the website are far better than the ones I have and so I have down loaded them to help me with the project. The German Navy has had a long association with S-Boats and the Type 143 was introduced into service in the late 1970s with a follow on sub class of Type 143A (which was also subject of a Revell kit). The Type 143 went out of service in 2005 with some being sold onto other navies. The Type 143 S-Boats were all named after birds with the lead ship in the class of 10 being named Albatross. These in common with all Fast Attack Craft were heavily armed and suited for operations in coastal waters, in the case of the Type 143, the Baltic, although they did operate as far afield as the Mediterranean. Armament consisted of two Oto Melara 76mm Guns, four MM38 Exocet Surface to Surface Missiles and two 21 inch Torpedo tubes facing aft. The ships were constructed with a composite hull (wood, grp and aluminium) and had four MTU propulsion engines developing a maximum speed of 40 knots. I am not sure what they were like to serve on but I suspect the shallow draught and narrow beam made them quite uncomfortable in a decent sea way. I am going to have to rely heavily on the internet for modelling reference and found a couple of useful web sites to help me although I am hoping not to deviate too far from the original kit: www.schnellboot.net/ http://s-boot.net/sboats-german navy.html The kit is at 1:144 Scale which is quite a nice size for adding detail. However I have decided that I will try and keep to the script and not deviate too far from an out of the box build. Although that said I have already decided I am going to replace the moulded railings, there may be one or two other minor adjustments but this should be a relatively straight forward build. As for the model kit itself the mouldings appear to be of good quality and I am hoping will fit together with little or no problems. I think replacing the kit railings with PE would make a massive difference and that is my starting point. So that is the introduction out of the way. I will be posting updates of progress of the build very shortly. Thanks for looking. Paul
  3. I know,some of you may think "how on earth can he churn out so many models in one week ?" As my stash has grown bigger and bigger,I decided to increase my production rate and work on several airliners at once. It's also more interesting to work on different projects on and off as only on one,at least for me...I have usually 3-4 kits on my bench on which I am working on and off so from time to time 2 airliners roll off production line almost simultaneously. So,here we are,the last of the bunch is also probably the most special one. The Air France Concorde in the striking Pepsi livery. Pepsi struck a deal with Air France in 1996 to brand one of their Concordes in this special livery. Altough the Jet could not fly more than Mach 1.7 due to the color,it flew 16 flights to 10 cities from Europe to the Middle East. After that,the Concorde was repainted back in the usual all white Air France livery and entered regular service again. The whole story can be found here... http://jalopnik.com/remember-when-a-concorde-wore-this-ridiculous-pepsi-liv-1709488664 I saw pic of this Concorde back then and always though it looked cool. So I was more than happy when I found the rather rare decal set for this particular aircraft.Having the decal set,I needed to get me another Revell Concorde as the other one in my stash will receive the Singapore / British Airways livery. I am not sure but I think the decal set was made by Gio Decals.The set was already a bit aged but it was still usable,although with much care. The tail logo was the most tricky part,esp. as they didn't really wanted to lay around the edges.I had to use a lot of decal softener and carefully repaint cracks that were unavoidable. Its not as perfect as I wanted it but I can live with it and from a normal distance its not really noticeable. All additional markings come from the original Revell decal set as it has lots of detail to enhance the overall look. The build was straight forward with only minor filling and sanding areas,esp. around the wing halves. I also shortened the front gear but it still sits a tad too low on the back. I airbrushed the whole kit by using Revell enamels. Revell Blue 54 with some drops white 04 to get as close to the Pepsi blue as possible.The instructions from the decal set are no help in that matter. Revell Gloss White 04 for all white parts and Aluminium for the landing gear. The engine hot sections were painted with a mixture of satin black and iron. The fuselage and wings were also clear coated after all decals had been aplied.The Pepsi decals didn't really wanted to stick,probably due to their age ?,so the clear coating did the trick. To tone down the too shiny surface a light mist of Testors Metallic Sealer was sprayed on the whole model. Enough writing on with the pics....after this one the next batch of airliners awaits its turn on my bench...
  4. This is one of the most difficult to find Revell airliners and prices for this kit are usually astronomic. I had the luck to achieve this one on Ebay for a surprisingly cheap price. The box and all parts were in pristine condition,only the decals showed their age a bit. The kit itself is very nicely molded and has engraved panel lines. Fit is quite ok,the most difficult parts were the wing to fuselage fit which was very poor and required some serious correction work to get the wings in the right angle atached. I decided to build this one as a desktop model.The landing gear is very basic and I didn't like the look of it. As the kit included the classic Revell display stand which allows the model to be displayed in different "flight modes" I decided to omit the landing gear. The Convair 990 looks also very elegant in flight. I decided to paint the whole Swissair livery by airbrush and only use decals for the logos,and other details. Paints are Revell and Testors enamels. For the decals I used a mixture of kits decals (the "Coronado" in the tail,and the "A" from the wing-registration and the registration in the red cheatline) , Swissair titles,logos and the white cross as well as the registration on the wings come from the Glencoe/Frog Convair 880,cabin windows and doors are from a Vintage Flyers decals set. As I tried to build this kit mainly straight from the box I kept the "open cockpit windows" and just filled them with Krystal Klear" The engines show the Coronado before the enhancements she received on behalf of Swissair. Research showed although that the first examples Swissair received came in this configuration and were modified later on so I had not to make alterations on the kits engines. After years of searching for this kit,I can finally add this classic airliner to my collection and it will get a special spot in my vitrine. Cheers
  5. Well hello everybody! I have decided to head back to the Gentlemans scale for a nice relaxing stress free, almost spring time, out of the box build. (Probably) Since My Father's Day gift from the kids last year ( Tickets to the Cosford air show ) I haven't been to an air show since I was knee high to a grass hopper and the sight and sounds of such a wonderful aircraft have stuck in my head. The rest of the show was pretty cool too. Here's a brief glimpse of the Typhoon in flight. https://wn.com/mobile/eurofighter_typhoon__cosford_airshow_2016 I had bought the Revell kit from the bargain bin in my LMS in Birmingham a few months before not knowing that I would be seeing one in flight. Long story short, this will be my next build, it's a far cry from my last mammoth three month long build of the venerable Airfix Bf109-E. Back to the matter at hand...... The boxed offering is a "Eurofighter Typhoon F2, R.A.F Coningsby UK, 2005/2007 No.3 Squadron. It is the magic number after all. There are other schemes but this one is the one I put a pin in. The Cosford jet was a FGR4 but it was a single seater like this one so that's good enough for me. I hope you will join me in building this lovely kit. Let's hope it is a lovely kit eh? Any hoo here is the obligatory box shot after I have cleaned the bench and set up the almost ritualistic first shot of a new build. Nice innit? I'm going to post now and follow up after dinner. Take care and hope you're all having a lovely Friday eve. Happy Modelling. Johnny Typhoon.
  6. Hello The warship virus is back and i have dusted my naval projects. While my Hood is still on hold, i have made progress on another project.I have started building Revells Schlachtschiff Bismarck a while ago and made also a start on the Tirpitz, also from Revell. Like so often building has started quite spontaneous and i think its now time to present them. Both are quite new kits and well detailed, to enhence this, i am using the Eduard BiG Ed set, a wooden deck from Pontos and turned metal barrels from RB and Master, i am not sure if i add more stuff. Depends on my budged. Building warships is complex so i am progressing on Bismarck first. Some pictures contain also parts from her sister ship. Both kits have some fit problems but nothing some putty and sanding can t cure. The first pics showing the hull of Tirpitz, with some sanding and filling. I am still fighting with with the different shape of her bow. Some fit problems and a new keel made from putty. I had started to build parts of the super structures. Quite different. Tirpitz on top. Some images of the pe parts, wooden deck and gun barrels Now on to Bismarck. The paint work on her hull is done but could need some touch ups. The decals for the water pass, and camo stripes were not used. Its more easy to match the the color of the baltic scheme stripes in her super structure. The poster from the Kagero books are a good back up for photos and a very helpful reference. It has also some flaws too. The Pontos deck is on, the red stripes are painted, the aft one is too small. Decals will do the rest of this detail. That was the point of the re start of the build. The main modelling time in the last 10 days were adding, folding and glueing on photo etched parts and removing and sanding away plastic details. But that is only the beginning. The bow. Still lots of details are missing here. The forecastle in the area of ht e first break water, the louvers got details. The barbette from turret "B" or Bruno got platforms around. Not every handrail of these platforms made it onto the model... Some midship details. Eduard has supplied the modeller with only some part of the steel decks before the catapult, Hope it looks good under the paint. I have also started to add watertight doors and the covers for the portholes. Very fiddly ! The roof of the aircraft hangar. Many of her boats were stowed here. The kit part before ...and after cutting and sanding every detail away and replacing them with pe parts. The hangar door was glued on after the pe parts were added on the roof top now i have a seam ( and also a damage ) And details around turret Caesar The turrets of the main guns have seen some work as well, more on those later. Thanks for looking Bernd
  7. The North American A-5/RA-5 Vigilante W.I.P. by Andrii Dzhuran, Revell kit 1/72 History: The rapid evolution of aircraft design in the 1950s led to new aircraft types with sleek lines and impressive performance. One such aircraft was the North American A-5/RA-5 "Vigilante". The Vigilante was designed as a carrier-based strategic nuclear bomber, but would see action over Vietnam as a fast reconnaissance aircraft. In the postwar period, the US Navy was determined to obtain a nuclear strike capability, first acquiring the North American AJ "Savage" and Douglas A-3 "Skywarrior" bombers. These were both subsonic aircraft, and since aircraft design was evolving quickly at the time, both soon became obsolete for the missions for which they had originally been designed. The new aircraft was originally referred to as the "North American General Purpose Attack Weapon" and later given the company designation of "NA-233". After discussions with the Navy, the NAA-233 concept took shape as a twin-engine aircraft with advanced combat avionics, Mach 2 performance, and an interesting "linear bomb bay" in which a nuclear weapon was popped out the tail to give the aircraft a better chance of escaping the atomic blast. North American engineers also considered fitting the aircraft with an auxiliary rocket engine powered by jet fuel and hydrogen peroxide for an additional burst of speed over the target area -- but the Navy didn't like the idea of handling a nasty, toxic, reactive, and unstable substance like hydrogen peroxide on board a ship, and so it didn't happen. The Vigilante was long and sleek, with a relatively small high-mounted swept-back wing, and all-moving slab tailplanes and tailfin. The aircraft had tricycle landing gear, with the main gear retracting into the fuselage. All three gear had single wheels and retracted forward, with the main gear rotating 90 degrees during retraction to fit into the wheel wells. The Vigilante was powered by twin General Electric YJ79-GE-2 engines, with engine bays made mostly of titanium, and covered with gold film to reflect heat. The aircraft had a large fuel capacity to give it long range and permit extended flight in afterburner. This period of history is interesting to me. Also, you might be interested. My new build in the WIP chapter “The North American A-5/RA-5 Vigilante” by Revell`s old kit begins with: Day 1 - Review of the kit; - Instructions study;
  8. Don't know if there are any other Halo fans out there but these kits look awesome! http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/99-science-fiction-modeling/551817-revell-halo-kits.htm
  9. So in between the group builds I'm busy with - in particular the F-16 build - I had started making the Revell 1/72 Buccaneer - box art below: Now to say this was a difficult kit that fought me at just about every turn would be an understatement but I enjoyed it all the same. The model is very basic with very little cockpit or fuselage detail and would benefit from the inclusion of some ordnance but once complete I think is a pretty good rendering of a bucc. This particular model is of an Operation Granby bucc and again I think this scheme helps to show off the lines of the aircraft in a pleasing light. The model is built completely out of box with no scratch building as I just wanted to keep this one very simple. At this point in time I have given the aircraft next to no weathering and was debating whether or not to go any further. A quick round up of your thoughts on this would be appreciated. So here she is - by no means a show standard piece - and as always your comments are most welcome:
  10. (Note - I've probably put this is the wrong section, it should have been in Ready for Inspection, but I'm not sure if I can move it easily....) Welcome to one of my now infrequent postings, as the title suggests, here's a Revell 1/48 Lunar Module I did earlier, about 39 years earlier in fact... this is my oldest surviving model of any kind. For some reason it's just always been there! First, a little history... Yup, that's me - No-more Shelf-space Junior, from Scale Models August 1978. (thanks to Jinxman for the pdf copy!) Note the financial confidence, quite unfounded as I was on a student grant at that time, if anyone remembers those. (I am no longer at that address). From that ad I got an Aurora Land of the Giants Spindrift (orange and bright green plastic, uuh), a Lindbergh wheel type space station, and a nice Revell 1/48 Apollo stack in all its totally inaccurate glory. The CSM and other parts did not survive the decades, and the other two got sold on. And I never got the Saturn and Vostok... Anyway here's the Lunar Module; I detailed it up from photos of the mockup then in the Science Museum. The landing legs were mostly rebuilt from EMA/Plastruct tubing, plume deflectors were toothpaste tube and straightened paperclip wire (stuck with Evo-Stik when it was actually glue), and foil - rather faded now - off a Cadbury's Caramac, another one of those things that isn't quite the same nowadays. Here's a photo round the back, where they kept the bins. Most of the details were rebuilt with plastic rod, and by some miracle nothing has ever got broken off! I had no airbrush then apart from one of those horrible Humbrol squirt-brushes so it was all hand painted in silver 11 and matt black. The windows were acetate, and now very yellowed, although you can't see this against the black interior. When I examined the interior with a torch I could see some attempt to stick something inside, although what I was intending to do I don't remember. Reference at that time was very hard to come by unless you were a smart alec and wrote to NASA. The base I made quite recently - it's the base you have seen in my aircraft photos, cut into a circle shape with "moon" built up with lumpy Tetrion and painted with tube acrylic. The placard is mounting board with lettering via a technical lettering stencil and rOtring pen - sort of in keeping with the era I made it in - I could have done something on the PC but, nah. Keep it 1978!
  11. As my last build, a Fokker Dr.1, drew to a close I found myself really looking forward to finally getting stuck into this one. (I'll post an RFI for the Fokker over the weekend when I can take some pics in natural light) I'll be doing a tandem build of two 1/72 SPAD XIII. Namely the Revell XIII C-1 and the Eduard Profipack XIII late version. Both will be finished in French markings. Spad-Double-Build by Martin Fay, on Flickr Here's the Revell - (the original tooling was 1963 apparently - it's older than I am!!!) pretty low part count, lots of flash, cheap as chips. There's not much in the line of detail so I think it'll need a little help in that regard. Revell-Spad by Martin Fay, on Flickr And here's the Eduard - (2003 but updated with new parts in 2009) Lovely clean sprues, nicely detailed for 1/72, clear parts and photoetch details for the radiators etc... Yummy! Eduard-Spad by Martin Fay, on Flickr Both are eye wateringly tiny so I'll be making use of the magnifier again. Oh, and this will be my first attempt at using Photoetch; what could possibly go wrong?
  12. Hi folks, I've had the Revell Mosquito B.IV sitting in the stash for a good few years so I thought this would be the perfect opportunity to get it built. To correct the kits flaws I've bought some ultracast wheels, extended the main gear using the Tamiya kit as a reference (adding the tyre guards at the same time) and sanded the spinners to a better shape (although they remain too short). I hope this doesn't classify as jumping the starting gun?!?! I've got a set of Eagle cal decals and I plan to build DZ415 of 627 Squadron in 1945. Looking forward to getting started on this one! Chris
  13. Hello Finally I had some time to continue the work on my Ost-Front scene. I've finished the models some time ago: Ju 87G-2 Stuka 'Kanonen Vogel' and Heinkel He 111 H-6. Both in 1:72 scale. Now it's the time to build the diorama for them. The plan is something like that: So, here is what I've done so far: Ju 87G-2 Stuka 'Kanonen Vogel' from Academy Heinkel He 111 H-6 from Revell Perspex box base with both of them arranged: Some SC250 bombs from Czech Masters (6) and one left from Messerschmitt Bf-109 kit: Some SC1000 bombs. Four again from Czech Masters and two from the Heinkel kit. They are a little bit bigger. Not sure which are in correct scale but I've decided to use all of them. The sledges to transport the bombs I've made from matches. Cut, glued, filed, airbrushed, drybrushed and finally weathered with washes. Here is how they look with the bombs: And finally Kettenkrad to tow the sledges and Kubelwagen for pilots (who are not ready yet). Both from Academy kit. The diorama will have some boxes, barrels etc. plus of course ground crew servicing the planes and the pilots resting and waiting for the mission. Thanks for watching.
  14. Hi chaps. I lurk around here a lot, but don't tend to post much. I've been following threads and picking up hints and tips here and there. So I thought it was time I contributed something. I have a few tamiya car kits, but didn't want to start with one, until I had at least one practice build under my belt. With that in mind I pulled this revell offering out of my stash.... Got some work done, and will post something later. Matt
  15. Afternoon, I've finally given into temptation and made a start on this one. I have some big(ish) ideas to go with this kit - we'll see how many of them come to fruition. Things I definitely want to do are: - Drop the flaps - Separate all the flight control surfaces, - Add external (and possibly internal) lighting - Motorise the props My inclination is to keep all the doors closed up - out of the box the cargo hold is fairly plain, and I think it would take a lot of work to get it in to a state that I would be happy with. Also, I'm inclined to do it 'in-flight', so whilst the ramp could be down, it's more likely to be up. I'm still undecided on whether to have the wheels up or down - the kit wheels are rather strange slab-sided affairs, and I'm not aware of any AM replacements. I have the PE set and paint mask, but don't think I'll be bothering with the SAC landing gear - I'm a bit sceptical about the utility of these in most cases. I think this aircraft is quite well suited to dropping the flaps - it has a very simple high-lift system: no leading edge devices and dropped-hinge flaps with a fixed vane on the trailing edge. This should make getting the geometry correct that bit easier. So far, I've mostly been cutting things up, starting with one of the flaps and flap-hinge fairings: I've also cut out the ailerons, elevators and rudder, so I'll need to get the Evergreen strip out are start building up the missing parts. I might cut out the spoilers too, possibly only on one side, as these are also used for roll control and I want to try and capture a 'dynamic' snapshot as it were. If anyone has any advice on lighting, I'm all ears! http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234957864-adding-led-lights-to-models-any-good-how-to-guides/ Thanks for looking! Andrew
  16. Leftenant Aluminium here with my 1/12th scale titanium and chromoly Suzuki motocross bike of 1970. It is seven inches (17 cm) from nose to tail. The result captures the colourful, exciting, and optimistic outlook of the early 1970s, at least as it seems to me. It is basically the Revell kit of 1974, but with rider (two actually) and modern parts from Tamiya Honda and KTM motocross bike kits. See Building Joël Robert’s Suzuki motocross bike in 1/12th scale: Page on my web site
  17. Hi all, So with the F-16I Sufa almost done, it's on to the next build and one I've wanted to do for a while using this wee kit... And hopefully turn it into an EC-135 of the Garda Siochana (Irish Police Force) Air Support Unit (Photo by Jerry Gunner; Wikipedia Commons. No copyright claim intended) Some of the police bits will need to be scratched while others (including the high skids) come in a spare sprue that's included in this kit. Decals will be from Max Decals. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Dermot
  18. I am currently planning/collecting models/parts for building 3 Revell 747s. The first is a 747-400 in Thai Air livery, second a 747-600 conversion in Gulf Air Livery and thirdly a 747-8i in an as yet undecided scheme. Here's my first question, should I fill the panel lines as they are quite obviously too deep?
  19. Hello, here's my recently finished 1/72 Revell Handley Page Halifax B.III. I built straight from the box except the main wheels which seem to be undersized. They were replaced by resin items from Kora. As with most new Revell kits, this is a smooth & easy build. I encountered some fit issues with the engine cowlings, but this was probably my own making, as I had painted all parts before assembly. The tolerances here are so low that even the thin layer of paint was too much. Decals come from the box, representing a machine of (Canadian) 424. Squadronm Skipton-On-Swale, December 1944. Painted with acrylics from Gunze/Mr.Hobby. # The position lights come as clear parts; I drilled a small hole and added a dot of red and green paint with a sharpened toothpick. To represent the 'wear & tear' of the propeller blades, I used a soft pencil to pronounce the edges. The detail of the flame-daming exhausts is simply marvellous. Even though the undersides are Black, I tried to apply some 'pre-shading'. Here, it is faintly visible. Thanks for your interest! All photographs; Wolfgang Rabel, IGM Cars & Bikes, Vienna Have a great christmas time.... cheers! Roman
  20. I've just completed my 1:72 Heinkel He 111 from Revell, a second part for the diorama (the first part was this Stuka). It was very nice build without the major problems. In fact the set is so good that there were no problems at all. You can see the progress here Here are some pictures of the finished model. More when the diorama is finished.
  21. Rogue One AT-ACT Walker (06754) 1:100 Revell Make & Play Rogue One is the latest film from the Star Wars universe, and sets the scene for Star Wars – A New Hope, which I'm hoping hasn't spoiled the plot for you. It introduces a raft of new types to the Rebel and Imperial forces, some of which are totally new, others are variations on an existing theme. One such is the new (old?) All-Terrain Armoured Cargo Transport AT-ACTs that the Rebels encounter on the Imperial outpost when they're trying to half-inch something special. I won't spoil it too much if you've not seen the film, but the Walkers' appearance on the screen is like seeing an old friend, even if that old friend is going to be shooting at you any minute now. These variants carry cargo in what appear to be modular containers that fit into their body, probably sliding in and out as needed. Their armament is limited to two cheek-mounted cannon that can still pack a sizeable punch, and they are still clearly related to the mighty AT-AT. The Kit Make & Play is a really cool range of easy-kits that require no glue, have few parts, and are fitted with light & sound modules, which makes them great fun for kids of all ages to play with. Inside the box are 45 parts in tough ABS plastic, some held fast in vacform plastic packing, other in heat sealed plastic bags. Like the other kit reviewed today, the numbers engraved on the insides of some of the parts are at variance with the first page of the instructions, so take care when putting together these parts. Construction begins with the large slab-sided hull parts, into which the orange-coloured cargo panels are clipped, after which the lower hull and the leg axles and bulkheads are attached together, the right hull half clipped into place, and the roof part slotted in before closing up the hull with the left side. The head is next, with its cheek guns clipping in place so that they can be posed, and the lower part of the head contains the light & sound module, which is shipped with the batteries isolated by a slip of clear sheet. Remove this, and pressing the button the top of the head will make the cockpit aperture glow red, and make one of two sound effects from the film. The legs are all built the same way, so a little production line will speed the process up. The foot can slide within the lower leg, which is in turn able to pivot around the knee by inserting a snap-in axle, the same process being used again at the hip joint. These snap-in parts required a fair amount of force on my sample, so it might be necessary for adult fingers to help out here to avoid frustration. On the upside, they should consequently be difficult to remove. Conclusion The kit captures the look of the on-screen walkers well, and apart from the cannons, should stand up to play very well. The sounds are fun, and the evil glow from the cockpit is surprisingly effective when viewed from the front. Kids will love them, and I'm sure some adults will too. It is also nice to see that the scale chosen for this kit is the same as the U-Wing that has been released at the same time. It isn't stated on the box, but they are both shown as 1:100 scale on Revell's website. Perhaps previous criticism of the eclectic scales of the earlier kits have been listened to? Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  22. Rogue One Rebel U-Wing Fighter (06755) 1:100 Revell Make & Play Star Wars. You're reading this, so you've probably been a fan most of your adult life, whether it's only a minor obsession, or you live your life by the Jedi code. I know a few grown men (one in particular) who dress as Stormtroopers at the weekend, and since Disney took over the franchise from a rather dormant Lucasfilm a couple of years back, we've been treated to two new films. One following on from the original storyline, and now Rogue One, which is set in the Star Wars universe, and (look away if you've genuinely got no clue of the story) sets the scene for the conflict of Star Wars – A New Hope. I took my 6 year old son to see it soon after it came out, and there are some great new designs fighting alongside the more well-known ones, many of which will no doubt become icons alongside their older siblings (I know, sacrelige!). The U-Wing is a Multi-Role combat ship of the Rebel forces, and is seen many times during the film, transporting the main protagonists to and from many a "fun" encounter with the Imperials. It is swing-wing, and can carry a number of troops in its belly, whilst exhibiting a number of familial traits in common with the X-Wings of legend, which also make more than a brief appearance in the film. The Kit Make & Play are a superb line of easy-build kits that are great for both little ones to be introduced to the joys of model making, and for the older modeller that quite fancies one of these soon-to-be-iconic designs for their shelves. Not to play with at all. Oh no! They can also be used as a basis for a detailing project if you so wish, which I once did with the old Sith Infiltrator. These ones come with nifty sound and light modules built into them, which is always a bonus. The box contains 35 parts, some of which are contained by vacformed clear packaging, others within a pair of heat-sealed plastic bags. The instruction booklet is simple, and begins with a visual list of parts, which also gives them numbers, which is at variance with the numbers and letters etched inside some of the parts, so pay attention to which parts go where. There are two clear canopies, a pair of pilots and their seats, and a very simply hull construction that shouldn't take long to complete. In the rear of the hull sits the light & sound module, with a slip of clear plastic breaking the contact between the batteries to ensure that they reach you in good working condition. Pull this clear part out, and pressing the button will then activate a green light in the cockpit, and one of two sound effects culled from the film. Before the hull is closed, the wings are fixed to posts in the lower hull, and once closed up, the wings pivot around the posts, clicking into position around the octagonal shape of the posts. The four engines are made up in pairs and fit onto their own posts on the rear of the fuselage. They will only fit the correct way, with one from each pair installing on the top, the other on the bottom on the opposite side. Add four landing gear legs, and that's it. Go and play! Speaking of play, the parts are all made from ABS plastic, which is substantially stronger than the styrene that most "serious" models are made of, so the structure should be quite resilient to heavy handling, although the gear legs look like they may collapse in a heavy landing, and the flexibility of the wings could be severely tested in the wrong hands. Conclusion I've said it before, and I'll say it again. These kits are excellent introductions to modelling, and great toys for kids, but they are not super-detailed hyper-realistic replicas of the "real" thing. I know my Boy will love this one in particular, and their ready-painted nature means that there's no waiting around. I added a few dabs of glue inside some of the more structural friction-fit towers to keep the engines on the model during the inevitable rough play. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  23. Hi Guys, Newbie here! Finished Build, brush painted, superscale decs, burner cans stolen from an academy kit. Hope it's OK Best Regards Ben
  24. Hi all, I've been here a few weeks now and though it was about time I showed you what I'm up to. I've very fond memories of watching Star Trek (TOS) as a kid in the 80's with my dad and my brother and it's one of the few things that has really stuck with me through changing times. The Enterprise itself I find mesmerising, it's graceful and each part of the ship has a clear purpose, a design classic and I love it. My favourite itteration has to be the refit, which I hope to build at some point in the future So, I got in to modelling because I wanted a decent model Enterprise, I've had a few very small die-cast models but they are always lacking something. I found the Revell kit online and decided that I'd build my own, LED lights and all. Now I've well and truly got the modelling bug, I've bought the Star Trek Starship Voyager for my next model, I've built a small Star Destroyer and plan to build models from Battlestar and other Star Trek models Here's some photos that I took while building my Enterprise, I wasnt originally planning on posting them online but then I found this place, so here it goes! 1. What a great start, I ruined my first model! I wanted to light my model with LEDs, so it had to be light-proofed. So the insides of the model had a coat of adhesion promoter, followed by black, then a silver or while coat would be painted to make it reflective. I was watching lots of Boyd's Trekworks Youtube videos for info and he used a heat gun on a gentle heat to aid the drying process.... I'll never do that again, my model melted You can see the plastic deformation from the heat in this image. It also shows my initial plan for lighting, which was to cover all windows with grease-proof paper, which diffuses the light, then placing LED's around the ship to light them up. 2. Saucer section interior is about ready So after buys a replacement model I started again, with a few important lessons learned This image shows the insides of the saucer section, painted and with the windows covered. I used 'Revell Contacta Liquid Special' to glue the clear windows in place, and to glue the greese-proof paper in place. The secondary hull, again with the inside prepared for lighting, it's had a black coat followed by a light coat to refelct the light. By this time I'd also started experimenting with LEDs, the breadboard in this photo had a 555 Timer chip and a 4017 Decade counter, they'll be used for the rotating lights of the Warp Nacells and the blinking navigation lights. 4.Let there be light! Not sure of the best positioning and arrangement of LEDs I just dove in with something that looked like it would give good coverage. I know some people use fewer but brighter LEDs, and some use LED tape/strips, which I might look at using in the future. Each LED has a resistor attached, and they're all in parallel, so if one should fail the others will continue to work. 5. Glue. After lighting the secondary hull in a similar way I was ready to glue a few parts together. Which I was pretty worried about as I considered it opportunity to ruin yet another model. I used Revel Contacta Professional glue and found my fears were unfounded, thankfully 6. Circuits To light this model I would need to build some circuits to handle the navigation lights and the rotating buzzard collector effects. So I bought the relevant gear from Maplin (I now use RS instead) and designed a few circuits in Pad2Pad, which is excellent free circuit design software. The first completed circuit was for the navigation lights, I was initially planning to put it inside the model but then decided I would fit it in the stand instead. 7. Warp Nacell Test #1 You saw my breadboard with a few components in an earlier photo. This is basically how the Buzzard Collector effect works on my model, The red, orange and green LEDs are aranged in a circle and give the impression of rotation. 8.Warp Nacell Circuit fitting After designing my Warp Nacell circuit in Pad2Pad, I printed it off, cut it out and placed it in it's intended final position to make sure it would fit. The circular plastic piece has holes drilled in it to receive the LEDs, 12 of them (for a single Nacell). 9. Assembled Warp Nacell Board After building the warp nacell board I fit it in place. Now you can also see how the LEDs sit. It's a pretty tight space so I was pleased that everything went in with no problems In the video below, the middle light isnt connected to any power, it will eventually be 'always-on' to provide a steady red glow. The camera doesnt really do the below any justice. 10. Closed up my first Warp Necell - and made my second big mistake It's amazing isnt it that you can do something, then the instant you finish you realise you've done it wrong. I guess it's not really that big a deal, the model isn't completely accurate anyway and I'd already decided that I would'nt worry about that this time. But this mistake was easily avoidably, yet at the crutial point I... put the wrong circuit in the wrong nacell, so the buzzard collectors now spin in the wrong direction. Only a Trek fan would notice, but it's annoying all the same. Still, after much grumpiness I think I can live with it. 11. Connecting the Pylons and the Seconday Hull. I'd already glued the warp nacells to the support pylons and let those set, I'd also done some work on removing the seams on all the parts glued so far. Now it was time to connect the wiring up and glue them to the secondary hull. With the wiring connected and the pylons glued on to the secondary hull, it looked like the area would be under a fair bit of stress, so I stuck a clamp in place to hold things together while they set. 12. Windows, I hate Windows I bought some masking fluid so that I could mask the windows, but found it to be far to imprecise and the results (of tests I did on my melted saucer section) were pretty messy. So after getting some advice right here on Britmodeller (thanks guys, you know who you are) I settled on masking the windows with masking tape. I used a scalpal to cut small rectangles working on one at a time. It took ages. I have used the masking fluid on a few of the larger clear pieces, but I'm still not impressed with the result, maybe I just need more practice with it! 13. All Masked, Time for the Primer With all the clear parts masked I bought myself a 'lazy suzan' and gave the entire ship a coat of Hycote Adhesion Promoter and then a nice coat of Hycote grey primer. No way was I going anywhere near this thing with a heat gun The wires you see here will eventually be fed through the stand in to the base. I found the Hycote cans give excellent fast coverage, pretty cheep too. 14. Base Color With the primer dry it was time to start mixing colours (as per the model instructions) and giving it some proper color. I used a 'Sparmax Arism Mini' Airbrush to spray the model, with Revel Aqua Color paints. I found that thinning the paint 2-parts paint to 1-part thinner worked pretty well. I'd aslo sprayed the deflector dish, I love that copper colour and started giving the warp nacell and impulse engines some colour. I was having trouble cutting the masking tape perfectly to cover the inside of the impulse engines, so decided to try the masking fluid. The result was not great but I think It'll look fine if I touch it up with a brush. So, that's my model so far. It's the first model I've ever build and while I've found it quite challenging I've really enjoyed it and plan to do many more in the future. I'll post more photos and videos as I make more progress. And thanks to everyone here for accepting me in to the site and giving me some great tips! Cheers
  25. My 14 year old daughter joined the air cadets last year & it appears that she has become mad keen on airplanes (swmbo is not impressed). Her favourite at the airshows we go to is the Eurofighter, despite my fondness for Lysanders, Hurricanes and the Miles Messenger. As it happens my step daughter gave me this kit for Christmas, so it seems it's time to build a kit that requires no ez-line. As with most of the planes I build, this one will end up hanging from the ceiling, so I shan't be bothering with any aftermarket bits & bobs. However, before it gets hung up & gets its' full load of weapons fitted, I'm going to try and photoshop it into this picture: Typhoon by Andy Moore, on Flickr It worked quite well with Sally-B, so I thought I'd give it another go. I can't remember the last time I built a Jet, so this could be a disaster. My paints of choice are Vallejo model-air, so if anyone has any thoughts on the shades of grey that I should use I'd be most grateful if you could share those thoughts. Here are some pics I took that are fairly self explanatory, initial progress should be posted tomorrow. Revell 1/48 Eurofighter by Andy Moore, on Flickr Revell 1/48 Eurofighter by Andy Moore, on Flickr Revell 1/48 Eurofighter by Andy Moore, on Flickr