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Since I seem to have hit some leaves on the rails over in my Pullman Car build and have been stymied by my nemesis, the unassuming but terrifying nightmare otherwise known as... the paint job, I thought I should try and refresh my batteries by trying a diversion - namely, starting self flagellation another build. I've had this one in the stash for a while, and my interest was sparked by @HL-10's very nice Fly 1:32 Wessex build (sorry, don't know how to add that nice little box thingie with the preview) so I thought what the heck, let's give it a go. What's the worst that can happen ? Well, let's get some things straight before we start... this will not be a quick build. I just can't do quick builds. Also, as my slightly battered psyche joyrides on the sinusoidal monorail that is mojo, I will probably switch back and forth between this build and the Pullman Car to keep things (namely me) interested. Scratchbuilding? Well it goes without saying - yes, there will be lots of scratch building. There may even be some 3D printed parts or some resin parts cast up. Let's wait and see shall we? So what are we dealing with here ? Well, here's a couple of bits of 1/32 Wessex taped up and sitting in front of my 1/32 Pullman Car (yes, it's just the chassis so far, and yes, it's upside down). I never realized just how close they were in size to each other before. I'm going to need a bigger display case. and we're off! I actually glued two parts together 'scuse the 1:1 feet photobombing the picture. As this thread continues, I'll try and (constructively) review the kit. So far there are some nice aspects, and some not so nice aspects that I have come across. The most immediately apparent is the lack of any alignment features which is proving troublesome, particularly as the parts also have different wall thickness - you can't just go and glue a tab on the back of one part as the surfaces then end up at different heights. Then, part edges aren't square - tale a look at the gap on the reverse face here. (That will be dealt with later after the glue has cured) So, a short post to start the proceedings, but more to follow as mojo is rising

So here we go! Finally the Mirage GB is there. Waited for a long time :). In my stash I have this 1/32 Mirage III and the 1/48 Mirage III (SEA) box. Despite the time frame which for me means 'pressure' I did not choose my Mirage 1/48. As a reader on Britmodeller I especially enjoy builds which are kits that are rarely seen. So this time it's my turn to do so. The Italeri Mirage III box is huge and I bought back in November. I opened it a few times to look at the sprues. Italeri did a good job on the kit and there is a small PE-fret supplied too. Although I ordered 1/32 decals to make an Australian IIIO I have seen that it needs a fair bit of modification, and thus I've choosen to make a Swiss Mirage IIIRS. The recce version. The only thin I need to do is scratch build to canard wings of which I have a drawing in 1/32 scale. Matterhorn decals released a new comprehensive sheet covering basically all the verson flow with the Swiss Air Force. The decals were orderd to day so they should be arriving somewhere within the next two weeks. So what I'm aiming for looks like this: © Airscene.co.uk Some photos of the kit: IMG_3631 Boxart Content Huge decal sheets Small PE-fret Clear parts Pretty nice OOB details The tub Nose gear bay details Wheels Camera parts for the IIIRS nose Wing surface details And finally the engine So now wait for saturday to actually start on the Mirage, till then I'm still collecting as much info an pictures as I can. Cheers, Evert

Hi everyone I started this one back along, put it to one side and I've recently picked it back up. I posted these pictures along with the original thread but they've since disappeared so..... And this is the scheme I going for.... (its not I'm doing scheme A) I've been working on the cockpit over the past couple of weeks but I don't have pictures yet, but I'll take some later on today. Cheers all

I have been making threatening noises about this build for some time now - and now it's time for me to make a start. I have been gathering materials and resources over the last few months - still a few critical items to lay my hands on but I think I have enough to make a start. A bit of history: A few years back I was lucky enough to be given the job of redesigning an original Pullman carriage. The owner wanted it to run on the tracks again and after a spate of rail crashes in the UK, rail regulations were tightened considerably. This carriage was originally a wooden bodied carriage so there was no way the authorities were going to let that back on the tracks without some serious modifications. My job was to survey the carriage and come up with a design (in steel) that would allow it back on the tracks. I was lucky in that many original features were still contained in that wooden shell, which we were able to reuse. In short, we brought the carriage up to Edinburgh, removed (or rather, smashed) the wooden structure until we were left with just the chassis. The carriage was then rebuilt (in steel) as close to the original design as we could, while being very sympathetic to the original styling. Since then I have always wanted to build a scale model of the carriage - I still have all the drawings I made during that two year stint, and my model is going to be based on those, at 1/32 scale. I have some idea of how I am going to tackle some of the build, but mainly no idea about most of it. I just know that I am going to have to scratch just about everything. Here's a few shots of the drawings I am working with. First up, the chassis and sideframe structure.... (just an overview) The vestibule ends - which gave us a lot of trouble to design, as structurally, they take the brunt of any collision forces. Incidentally, my name, along with others on the project team, has been stamped on the shear plate in the vestibule ceiling. Lastly, here's what the carriage should end up looking like. This particular carriage was important as it was the last of it's type ever constructed, way back in 1951. Unusually, it has square windows at the kitchen and toilet areas - these were usually oval on Pullmans. I believe this is running today and can be booked for private charters - a bit more expensive than your standard BR ticket though. As always with my builds, this is not going to be a quick one - I reckon on about two years or more to build this one, but I have to make a start somewhere! So, to begin, the chassis plans printed out to 1/32 scale Some bits and bobs ready to begin. As you can see, this is going to end up around 600mm or so in length The first cuts begin.... oops did I mention that I am building the chassis in brass ? I should also mention that I am going to try and stay as true as possible to the original chassis structure/design. What on earth am I doing here??? Too late - I've started..... now I just need to learn how to solder lumps of brass together btw I placed this thread in the vehicles section as it seems to get a lot more traffic than the trains forum. Mods feel free to move it if I have broken any laws

MPM SH32049 boxart: http://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=97&t=71717&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=a translation: Main parts from short run and small details from metal mould.

Hi gents, I would like to share the progres on this great kit, cheers! Antonio

Presenting the Monogram 1/32 Apollo CSM, with New Ware etch interior (and other parts), and Space Model Systems decals, plus of course the Realspace Models resin unitary hatch. This kit was released in 1969 and is still available. It is the only accurate commercial kit of the craft, although it appears to be based on monochrome official drawings and some photos, and has inaccuracies as it comes - the biggest one being the gold plated Command Module! A full interior is included, although the complex instrument panels are for reasons that may never be understood, represented by terrible stickers in green, black and red. Most interior colours are wrongly specified in the instructions. The space suited crew figures are best discarded. With some research however a reasonable model may be produced. The CM chrome finish - strips of tape on the real one - is hard to replicate, I used Extreme Metal chrome. The build progress on this model is here in In Progress.

Thought I would quickly get something up here before I get to the painting stage of my latest, the Revell boxing of Hasagawa's handsome 190 D-9 in the large scale. I seem to have taken a long time with this one and made life difficult for myself by ever-so slightly misaligning the wing spar which then throws out other areas of the wing to fuselage joint. I managed to get it perfect on only one side, the other side and the under-fuselage insert requiring more work than I would like. As you can see the new technique beign tried out for the first time on this one is a full riveting job The underside with all that engine detail on view And a close-up of all those rivets (which took me forever), not perfect but hopefully will look OK under a couple of layers of paint

My next attempt at model building will be the 1/32 Trumpeter TBM-3 Avenger. (Apologies to jean who requested the 1/32 F-105, but there are too many corrections and additions I need to make to the 105 and just want to do something semi-out of the box.) When this kit came out, it was reviewed as one of Trumpeter’s better kits as far as shape and accuracy is concerned. The box art is here. Inside there is some included kit PE and it looks like at some point in time I purchased the Eduard Seat belts. Now the kit PE has seat belts, but the Eduard are so much better. The bulk of the rest of the kit PE is for the bomb bay doors. Now what is missing from this picture? The canopy masks! I hate to mask canopies. It is my least favorite thing about model building. And this puppy has a lot of complicated masking that needs to be done. Must go online and purchase canopy masks! Not to worry though, it will be a bit before I need them. Inside the main box is a little mini-box full of goodies. Inside the mini-box are the vinyl tires; the engine cowl; some pieces for the engine; those funny, but irritating steel pins needed to hinge the flaps, tail and elevator; stuff for the instrument panel; the clear part for the rear machine gun; some stuff for the folding wings; and finally, some string. (Not real sure about the string use yet?) I got me some instructions to follow. (28 pages!) The decals aren’t much to write home about. I have a choice of two color schemes; one for a bird from the USS Shamrock and the other in the markings of former President Bush’s plane. Right now, I am strongly leaning towards President Bush’s mount as I have just reread Flyboys. I also am tempted to do a Tarpon/Avenger II but I think I will do that with the Accurate Miniatures version I have in the stash. Finally, there are a ton of sprues inside. There are 492 parts in total, not counting the Eduard PE. According to the kit instructions, just 2 will not be used. This might keep me busy over the weekend! I also did a size comparison so I can also start thinking about where to put this when it is finished. The kit fuselage is dwarfs the 1/48 Accurate Miniatures fuselage which for a single engine plane is fairly large for 1/48. I’m thinking this is destined for one of the hutches. I also compared the inner fuselage detail. Accurate Miniatures is known for the quality of kit detail and the Trumpeter inner detail is pretty close to match the AM detail. That is a good sign. So, next up, according to the instructions is four steps on just building up the engine. It looks fairly detailed so I will probably figure out a way to display it as the cowling is a one-piece affair. Must do some research on how the engine panels open for servicing and how to plan the surgery to open up the engine. Seems a waste not to show it. As always, all comments are welcome.

I decided a while ago to build the new 1/32 scale Special Hobby Yak-3 kit in this GB as I have a bit of a soft spot for the Yakovlev piston fighters. But I was undecided in what colour scheme to paint the model. I didn't like to make a Normandie-Niemen Yak-3 in this scale as I prefer to make one in 1/48 as a companion to my Yak-1 build which still needs to be completed. When I downloaded the PDF instructions for the new Begemot decals of the Yak-3 in 1/32 scale (still waiting for its arrival), it contained all the favored markings seen on models in the past, but one scheme was new and it looks stunning My thanks go to Dimmy who located these sensational pictures. This plane was flown by Senior Lieutenant Ermohin Valentin Grigorievich of the 402nd Fighter Regiment (265th Fighter Air Division, 3rd Fighter Aviation Corps, 16th Air Army, 1st Belorussian Front). He shot down 9 enemy aircraft between July 1944 and April 1945 and several of them on this aircraft. There is an excellent page where I got this information from This will be my first 1/32 scale build and I am exited having a go at it. The kit looks great in the box - maybe a bit simple with not too many parts for the scale. Will be interesting to see how it goes together. I will use some aftermarket parts, Eduard PE and HGW fabric seatbelts which hopefully arrive shortly too. Cheers, Peter

A last year I did Airfix's 1/32 Crusader Mk.III tank. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234998810-132-airfix-crusader-mkiii/ Loved the build so I thought I would see if I could get hold of an Airfix 1/32 Grant but I couldn't find one but I did manage to get hold of Revell 1/32 Lee so here is how I am getting on.As you can see from the last photo this isn't a young kit but for a 42 year old kit it hides its years rather well. Though the figures are not the best nor are the decals and the vinyl tracks are a bit long but the rest of the kit passes muster. The plastic quality isn't bad, the ejector pins are not in any places to give too much trouble and the detail looks right to me. My first job was to make the six bogie's. The parts needed a bit of tiding up but not too much. To get read of the seam lines on the wheels. This was done using my Dremel, a cocktail stick and piece of wet and dry stuck on a flat piece of wood.The cocktail stick are cheap but I found the chuck of my drill wasn't too keen on them as every now and then one tried to escape. So looking around my bench I spied a mandrel from my Dremel which has a thin screw which easily fitted the wheel.This worked perfectly and made the job of sanding the road wheels a faster. I had a piece of wire grill which I got from my spares box and I decided to replace the grill between the filler caps.So using small drill bits I got to work.Using a file and skinny sticks I smoothed down the sides. I cut the grill to size and I used plastic rod to make the inner frame for the grill to sit on.I had a look at the vision slots and I decided to drill them out and used scrap plastic as backing. I did this to give them a bit of depth and used the backing as I wanted the hull light tight.I did this for the turret as well. Regarding the turret I drill out the main gun barrel and the coaxial machine gun adding cooling vent holes to the as well.As you can see from the previous photo, the side door has a grab handle above it. As a rule I always replace plastic handles with metal ones if I can just because I don't want them to snap off later on and I think the look better. So using a bit of copper wire roughly the same thickness as the kit part I cut it to a usable size.I used a metal ruler to straighten the wire by rolling it under the ruler.Now using a flat pair of pliers I put the first bend in.At this point I was going to use a nice piece of kit made by RP Tools for making handles.But just my luck, the size of handle I wanted was where the pin is, so on to plan "B" and I made them the old way.So I first fitted the wire into one of the handle holes.Then I roughly placed the flat pliers where I wanted the second bend to be. Keeping the pliers in place I removed the wire from the hull and then I put the second bend in. If I wasn't happy with the bend, as I am using copper I just straightened the wire with the steel ruler and tried again. Anyway when I was happy I trimmed the wire ends to make it easier to fit.I then fixed them in place with CA glue.For the upper machine gun I used a syringe needles which was the same diameter as the kit part and I cut to size using my Dremel and a cutting disc. Then I glued in place with CA glue.I filled the tool locating holes on the rear deck as I was going to add my own tow cable made from twist thin copper wire. The reason for filling all of the holes as it allows to slightly move the location of each tool if I have to.I used plastic rod glued in the holes and I sanded when the glue has cured. Here is the kit tow cable.And here is the homemade one. These are easy and cheap to make. All you need in a hand drill.A vice and a screw. You put the screw in the vice with the head of the screw and about an inch of the screw shaft sticking out of the top of the vice and tighten the vice. For this cable I used two pieces of thin wire bent in half. The loose ends of the wire are placed in the drill chuck and tightened. The two loops at the other end are placed over the head of the screw in the vice. Now pull back slightly on the drill to straighten the wire and just turn the handle of the drill and watch it braid the wire. Stop when you are happy and cut to size. For the loop I bent the end of the wire then I used a small strip of soft aluminium then I used a drop of CA glue to keep it in place. I use aluminium sheet but you could use the aluminium off the top of wine bottles.Next I tidied up the shovel by removing the mounting strips, etc and the plastic that filled in the gap in the handle.Then I started to add the tools, cable, tarps, etc.The tarpaulins where made by just rolling a piece of soft aluminium and the shovel and cable strips where made from the same using CA glue to attach.Even with all the homemade additions for me this is a fast build. There has been a bit of filling but not as much as I first though. For me the kit antenna was a touch too thick and I knew would snap off in the future so I again used thin copper wire rolled and straightened as before.So I just cut off the kit antenna from its mount and I drilled a hole in the mount to take the wire. I then attached the antenna mount to the tank hull.I am not going to attach the antenna to the mount until I have finished painting the M3.

Unveiled at Nuremberg. Release date TBA. http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=66844

Hello guys; This is my latest build: an Eduard Emil 1/32. It is a honest kit with good assembly. I used this followings adds: - Eduard Brassin Engine Set; - Eduard Brassin MG 17 Mount; - Eduard Brassin Wheels - Aires interior resin set; - Kagero and kit decals; - RB Productions belts and; - Master Barrels (MG17). I used a mix Tamiya paints. The version chose is a Black 10 JG27, Libya 1941. This aircraft was painting with a desert camuflage, probably Italian paints. I had dificult in use Eduard Brassin Engine set. I don't understand, but the engine fittings is very bad. I spent three months in this job. All steps are posted in this Brazilian group building forum: http://webkits.hoop.la/topic/gb-08-bf109e-7-trop-eduard-1-32?page=1 Thanks for watching! Cheers!

In case one or two of you may be interested (anyone? ... anyone?), the Green Tails Albatros' have been available for pre-order on the WNW site for the last couple of days. Shipping date is July 24.

Hi I succumbed to the recent Airfix 17 Pounder for a fiver offer. I scratch built one of these in 1/72 in the 1970s and have a soft spot for it. The latest issue box: The crew is I believe the Airfix multipose Airfix infantry set: the gun is on three sprues: It's not a great moulding - loads of sink marks, distortion and flash. I spent this afternoon making up sub assemblies. The parts needed a fair bit of preparation before assembly, and I see a fair bit of filling and sanding in my future too. It's quite frustrating - all the rectangular parts are slightly trapezoidal to aid mould release. The multipose figures are well modelled, and someone at Airfix took some trouble to suggest how to assemble them to look more like a gun crew. They will need more work to look convincing. But it's a 200+ part kit fof a subject I like for a fiver! Thanks for looking, Adrian

Special Hobby working on a new tool Yak-3. It will be their next 1/32 kit after the Tempest.

Hi All I have a build log currently running on my blog and I figured I may as well post it here for you to look at, its my first major 1/32 build and I'm really enjoying the bigger scale! In this build log I’ll be building the Trumpeter 1/32 Ju-87A-1 ‘Anton’ and I’ll be adding the Eduard Big Ed set BIG3351 along with Montex K32296 Mask set for 29-5 from the VJ/88 experimental group in Spain 1937. For reference I’m using Hikoki Publications Condor by Patrick Laureau and Military Illustrated Modeller 073 which has an in depth build of this kit by James Hatch. Work begins, unusually, with the engine front cowling and propeller. I opted to leave the propeller until later. Eduard provide the correct horizontal slats for the ‘A’ model, these simply stick over the top of the kit part. The engine and radiator are very well detailed and its a shame that so much will be hidden, the work needed to open up the hatches is far in excess of what I’d like to tackle so it will have to be closed up. There are various scoops and intakes which show a little of the engine so it is nice to have it there. Next its on to the cowling and front of the fuselage and straight off there are a few gaps showing themselves in the test fitting stage. Also a well documented problem is the amount to which the exhausts protrude from the the side of cowl. Without modification they are flush but reference shows that they should protrude quite a bit so I went about thinning the inside until I had the desired effect. Also at this point I fixed the scoops on the underside of the cowl so that they had the correct rounded gouge in the panel which they dont have straight from the box. In test fitting the engine, radiator and bomb cradle into the cowl I found that its quite a tight fit so you need to ensure that everything is aligned properly before gluing. The radiator attachment to the bottom of the engine is a little flimsy too so care needs to be taken throughout this stage. It is worth pointing out that I glued the exhausts onto the inside of cowl instead of to the engine. This meant for a more secure join and gave me the maximum protrusion. Now to get this lot together and then onto the cockpit.

This one has been quietly marinating in the stash for a while. A couple of weeks ago I splashed out on some extra parts and the package arrived at the weekend. Brilliant! Or so I thought. So, apart from Tamiya's viper I added Aires' tail pipe, wheel bays and weighted wheels along with Eduard brass. I quick search of the delivery box revealed that I was missing the Aires front office, fog it! I'd forgotten to add it to the order list. Another order required along with postage costs. So first off this is what Big Ed delivers: Seven packages containing masks for the canopy, a stencil set, "Remove before flight" tags, brass for the bang seat and cockpit which looks reasonably good along with brass for the exterior and a ladder. A lot of the external brass is for the air brakes and I'll probably have these closed so I don't expect I'll be using that. Price wise it made more sense to buy the Big Ed package rather than just the elements I wanted. Now the contents of the big box. Apologies for the photo quality. Normally I'd use my SLR but had a bad day with an Abrams so used the camera on the iPad. Not much to say about these two other than the parts are all cleanly moulded. I'd have liked a bit more definition in the panel lines but I'll see about that later. Decal set: Not sure how many of these I'll use. The contents of a box within a box. Nice to see that there are two canopies; Tinted and clear. As some aircraft had a mix of front and rear sections this is a nice addition. Nose cone is here as well however I think I'll replace the pressure vanes with metal ones. There was also an empty plastic bag. Not sure if it was meant to contain anything. Tail fin and engine bay. The pressure sensor on the tail leading edge looks a tad fragile as do the static dischargers on another sprue. Metal me thinks. Bang seat and 2 pilots. I might convert one of the helmets to JHMCS version after I've drilled out on of the heads. The ladder looks terrible but maybe I'm being over critical. Compared to the quality of the rest of the parts it looks like a 5min after thought. The plan is to try to paint the Have Glass finish. I'm not quite sure how I'm going to tackle that yet and obtain the patina required. I also wanted to add a Sniper pod in addition to the 213 Harm targeting pod. Additionally the Harm pod has to move over to the LHS leaving space for the AN/AAQ-33 Sniper pod. Seems the only people who manufacture an after market pod set are an outfit called Wolfpack however they seem to have stopped production of these parts. If anybody has a set somewhere that they'd like to convert into cash I'd be interested. The plan is to build a desktop display model with the engine alongside. It also means opening up some of the panels normally found open when the aircraft is parked and building some of the detail behind them. But before I start all that its back to ordering a few more parts.

Hi guys, well I fancied building the Russian helicopter gunship that was flown in the Rambo 2 movie, it was supposed to look like the Hind, the Puma was modified for the task. I picked up this 1/32 Revell kit as the basis for the build, lucky for me I got it off eBay for only £15 including delivery. It's a pretty rough kit, very basic and crude in some areas but not too bad in others, but it's more than adequate for this project. I will have to scratch build the wings and pylons but thankfully the weapons are available from Trumpeter.

Another one off the production line.... Polikarpov I-16, Type 10, 1. Squadron, Lina Base, Spain, April 1938. The kit is somewhat daunting when you're first presented with the sprues and care will be needed throughout the build, there are no major problems it's just a bit of an old school build, meaning filler on every join and wing roots with a large gap etc. I used super glue as a filler which worked quite well, the few panel lines were then re-scribed and I added a few rivets around the engine cowling. The cockpit is sparse, as the real thing and you can't really see anything other than the chair. Seatbelts are supplied in etch metal and resin exhausts are included. For the silver ring on the cowling I used a thin strip of foil tape which works from stand off scale but would have been better painted. Painting was quite straightforward and done in a day with MRP standard soviet colours from WW2. There are decals for the fin but I chose to paint this instead, the rest of the decals are nice, maybe slightly thick for the scale. For finishing I used a different method by buffing the paint back with a cloth and sanding sticks, then I rubbed pigments lightly all over the airframe to give a dusty look. I'm trying to get a bit of realism from my larger models and I've started experimenting with techniques such as not having dead straight lines on paint finishes, building in imperfections in the finish and trying not to use the conversational gloss coat, matt coat etc. and instead buff the paint back with a cloth and fine sanding sticks. I would have preferred paint masks for the markings on this build so I may move to that for future builds over 1/48. Anyway hope you can see what I'm trying to achieve Kit: Azur Polikarpov I-16, Type 10, Super Mosca Scale: 1/32 Built: OOB Paints used: MRP RLM 62, MRP-024 A II G Light Blue, Xf 7, MRP White, MRP Black, Xf 58 Weathering: Mig pigments European Earth, Desert Sand, Flory Dark Dirt Wash

Spotted this over at PlanetFigure, an RAF pilot enjoying a mug: http://www.planetfigure.com/threads/maim-news.108784/ regards, Jack

Eduard Big Ed set used although a lot of the external replacement bits were unnecessary I thought, so I left them off. Before anyone has a go at me I think the following are wrong: -incorrect fuselage roundel type -live torpedo should have a yellow nose (according to an FAAM info board) -the kit's PE wing bracing wires are wrong - they had a circular cross-section rather than flat Eduard's pre-coloured wing folds are wrong - in real life they appear to be fabric covered and match the colours of the upper and lower camouflage. Only found all this out after I had finished. Must do better research! Hope you like the photos nevertheless. Regards J A

Hi folk's this is the first of my foray's into 1/32 scale for a while,I had the kit a year part started but the 109 GB took it off the shelf of doom and onto completion.It's a very nicely molded kit and apart from a little over engineering on the wing/wheel well assembly is pretty stress free build wise,I had a lot of help scheme wise from the usual BM suspect's and for that the WIP is worth a look. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235020774-revell-132-g10finished/&page=1

This is Revell's recent 1/32 Bf109G-6. A nice enough kit, well-detailed but rather over-engineered in places, especially the wings. Finished in Xtracrylix 74/75/76 scheme in the markings of Oberfeldwebel Heinrich Bartels, 11./JG 27 in 1943. I faffed with the spinner for ages and ended up hand painitng it in the end. When I Googled Bartels' aircraft there seemed to many variations on a theme. Mine is another interpretation. I used the kit decals and some from the Peddinghaus sheet, the instructions of which left a lot to be desired. Anyway, here it is. 20170726_143217_edit by dereknferguson, on Flickr 20170726_143225_edit by dereknferguson, on Flickr 20170726_143232_edit by dereknferguson, on Flickr 20170726_143240_edit by dereknferguson, on Flickr 20170726_143247_edit by dereknferguson, on Flickr And with the Bf109K-4 I built earlier. 20170726_143334_edit by dereknferguson, on Flickr