Jump to content

Airbrush Advice?


TG28

Recommended Posts

I’m getting back into modeling again. I built many model planes when I was a kid but haven’t in quite a while. In the past I only painted with brushes but would like to start using an airbrush. I currently own and old Paashe VL suction feed airbrush. It’s okay but not great. I would really like to get a gravity feed. I’ve done some research and the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS appears to be a high quality unit. 
 

Any thoughts or recommendations on a different airbrush are appreciated. 

Edited by TG28
mistake
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome aboard! :clap2:

 

I have 2 Iwata airbrushes, and I think they're excellent tools! Don's Airbrush Tips has a lot of good quantitative info; here is a review of the HP-CS. There are both technical and artistic aspects to airbrushing; make sure you get the technical parts down solid. Also spend some time figuring out which paint brands and formulations work best for you. One person's goto paint may not work at all for you. Ready availability is one of the more important aspects as it's gua-ran-teed that you'll run on of a color at the worst possible time; something available locally would be very handy. Oh, and stick with the brand's thinner until you know another brand works. Don't use that thinner for cleaning the airbrush. Since I use solvent paint, I use hardwre store lacquer thinner; there are paint cleaners for water-soluble acrylics, including plain old water.

 

I suggest always having an extra nozzle and needle on-hand as they're both quite delicate.

 

FWIW, I use Mr.Color and lately Tamiya Lacquer; here's how I apply it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve had a couple of Iwata airbrushes, including the one with the pistol grip, which I found very comfortable  to use. However, I have now switched to a Harder and Steenbeck ‘brush because of the incredibly easy strip down and clean procedures. All of the components are big enough for me to get a hold and no tools are required. The result is that I have almost no stoppages and the performance is at least as good as my Iwatas. I do miss that pistol grip though…

Link to comment
Share on other sites

55 minutes ago, TG28 said:

Thank you. I will be using Vallejo and Tamiya acrylics almost exclusively since that is what my LHS carries. 

Be aware that not all acrylics are the same - Vallejo is water based, Tamiya solvent based, so thinning and cleaning methods are different. In my experience solvent based acrylics are a bit smelly but tougher than water based, and a lot easier to spray (less finicky about thinning ratios) and less prone to tip dry. That said, there are plenty here who happily use water based acrylics - though some use additional additives to improve spray performance.

 

Cheers

 

Colin

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, ckw said:

Be aware that not all acrylics are the same - Vallejo is water based, Tamiya solvent based, so thinning and cleaning methods are different. In my experience solvent based acrylics are a bit smelly but tougher than water based, and a lot easier to spray (less finicky about thinning ratios) and less prone to tip dry. That said, there are plenty here who happily use water based acrylics - though some use additional additives to improve spray performance.

 

Cheers

 

Colin

 

 


 

Great info. I most likely try to stick with Vallejo acrylics and have watched quite a few videos on thinning for spraying.  I prefer water based paints if possible instead of stinking up the house with solvent based (wife, kids, and dog appreciate it too!!!). 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have three Iwata’s currently, and I have used a Paasche, Badger and Tamiya. All gravity feed and double action, with the exception of the Tamiya that is. For a single action that actually worked quite good. I heartily recommend the Iwata particularly the Neo or HP.BC+ or CS. The Neo will eat about anything paint wise and not give it a second thought. It wont give you very fine detail but you can buy a smaller needle/nozzle for it and that could help ? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the Iwata HP-CS is a fine choice, you really can't go wrong with it and if that's what you've decided on then by all means get it. It will last for many years to come.

I personally use 2 airbrushes. A cheap chinese one that came with my compressor that I use for varnishes and primer, and a Sparmax SP-20X that I use for everything else. The Sparmax with its .2 needle is a little beauty. Beautiful machining, extremely precise trigger control and excellent atomization of paint. I've used it with Tamiya, AK, Mr Hobby, Revell, Humbrol, Vallejo, Mig and never had a problem when properly thinned.

Sparmax is a subsidiary of Iwata and produces some guns for Tamiya as well. Here in Europe they are a bargain, selling for less than half the price of the cheapest Iwata (not counting the neo) and spares are very reasonably priced. They make bigger needled guns but for my scale (1/72) I don't need a bigger needle size.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am a Iwata user, 3 CM B2, 3 HP B-Plus and a Hi-Line HP-CH fine airbrushes but at a price.

 

I would suggest having a look at the Gaahleri line Gaahleri airbrushes.

 

I have a couple and they are excellent not just on value but also on performance and will be knocking on Procon Boys door both for quality and price.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is one more vote for Harder and Steenberg. I'm using the Ultra and Evolution for years and on a regular basis, the Infinity is yet unused. I like the interchangeability of needles and nozzles and the easy way to clean. I use Vallejo Model Air, diluted.

 

Regards André 

Edited by KingCobra
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I ended up buying a Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. Also bought the .5mm needle and nozzle. I think I’ll use my old Paashe VL for  primer and the Iwata for color/clear. Thanks again for the input. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You got a good tool, enjoy! :clap2:

 

That .5mm tip is excellent for metallics and any time you want to paint a large areas, such as primers, main body colors, and clear coats. Having written that, it is nice to have 2 airbrushes.

If your compressor doesn't have 2 outlets, try to get quick-release connections, like this. Also shown is a 2-airbrush hanger from Iwata. It's designed to clamp to a table top but I was able to bolt it to the side of my compressor.

iwata-hanger.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, TG28 said:

I ended up buying a Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. Also bought the .5mm needle and nozzle. I think I’ll use my old Paashe VL for  primer and the Iwata for color/clear. Thanks again for the input. 

That's a good choice. With Vallejo, if you have trouble getting Vallejo retarder, try Golden Fluid retarder instead, it's compatible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to through a spanner in the works.

 

Harder and Steenbeck .... simple, idiot proof and German. Plus a range to suit all pockets.

 

https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Harder-Steenbeck-Airbrushes.html

 

I've got 2 of these and had no problems over the last 15 years. 

 

If I was to change I would buy the same again.... they are that good.

 

Dick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/17/2024 at 6:43 AM, jenko said:

Just to through a spanner in the works.

 

Harder and Steenbeck .... simple, idiot proof and German. Plus a range to suit all pockets.

 

 

I second that. Solid build, dependable, easily cleaned and parts are interchangeable through the range. The H&S Ultra is a great starter, the only prob is it comes with a 0.2 whereas for beginners maybe a 0.4 would be better. That's why I bought the Ultra 2 in 1 which gives you 0.2 and 0.4 sizes in one pack.

 

However ... the new range (just released in Jan) has some design changes that probably don't suit me, but the changes are designed for beginners. The new Ultra 2024 comes with a 0.45, which is a good thing

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/16/2024 at 5:51 PM, TG28 said:

I ended up buying a Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. Also bought the .5mm needle and nozzle. I think I’ll use my old Paashe VL for  primer and the Iwata for color/clear. Thanks again for the input. 


Just checking that you realise that the 0.5mm needs a different nozzle cap too - so three parts needed to swap over to 0.5mm, needle, nozzle and nozzle cap.

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, nheather said:


Just checking that you realise that the 0.5mm needs a different nozzle cap too - so three parts needed to swap over to 0.5mm, needle, nozzle and nozzle cap.

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel


Thank you, yes all 3 parts were purchased. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently watched a YouTube video by an artist that uses airbrushes to paint amazingly realistic portraits.  This particular video was his top ten airbrushes for the beginner.  Wasn't presently surprised to see he placed the Eclipse CS in first place as a combination of performance, easy of use and price.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I've just started my Airbrush research and found nearly all my questions answered above, thanks TG28 for starting this and to everyone else who posted replies.  This gives me plenty of information for my file.  Next up compressors.  I'm going to search the Forum to see what I can find.

 

Hey TG28, I'm in US too, where did you get your Iwata?

 

Regards

Colin

Edited by Philly1860
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...