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ckw

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Everything posted by ckw

  1. Well my local Hobbycraft certainly favours 1/48th. As does at least one of my dedicated local model shops - indeed its quite depressing as the space allocated to 1/72 seems to be increasingly encroached upon by the 1/48th section every time I visit. I suspect that 1/72nd may become the niche scale within a generation of modellers. Cheers Colin
  2. It's weird - you may be right, but at the same time, I see far more 1/144th scale kits which 30 years ago was pretty much the preserve of airliners and other large types - now there seem to be loads of single engine types available. Perhaps it's just that everything has been done in 1/72! (obviously it hasn't but possibly everything that would shift more that a dozen boxes has). A more cynical explanation might be the profit margins are better in 1/48th. Capital costs can't be that much different, material costs negligable, but bigger boxes = bigger prices. As a die hard 1/72nder i
  3. An interesting resource. In trying to find out more about it, I went looking through their Google Group and found this https://groups.google.com/g/box-art/c/H3sLhud-wao Which perhaps explains their intentions. They claim to operate under the 'fair use' (fair dealing) exceptions of copyright law. In the UK 'fair use' is contingent on the following Has the use of the work impacted negatively on the market for the original work? If the creator or owner has lost potential revenue through the re-use of their work, it is not likely to be fair. Was it rea
  4. Thanks for that Chris - I was aware of that aircraft, but what isn't clear is whether or not it was used operationally - and if so, was it re-painted before service. Yes - I'm being picky, but lets face it obsessiveness is rather a trait amongst modellers! Cheers Colin
  5. Slightly off topic, but I figure Connie fans will be reading this so ... I want to build a C-69 based on (in the absence of anything else) a Heller 749. But here is my problem - my collection is exclusively aircraft in their operational WWII colours. Now as far as I can tell, the few C-69s in service before the end of the war were in OD/NG scheme. I really can't bring myself to do this to the Connie's graceful lines, esp. as she will be sitting beside a planned natural metal DC-4. Does anyone know if any of the war service C-69s operated in natural metal? Or better stil
  6. I went the Ultra -> Infinity route, for much the same reason. A couple of points: 1- The infinity is a much better brush all round aside from the .15 needle & nozzle. The pre-set feature I really find useful (though I didn't see the value at first) 2 - Going more detailed (by which I assume you mean finer spray and control) is perhaps not so much a matter of the brush, but of getting on top of the correct combination of paint, thinner and air pressure. I can generate extremely fine lines (pencil thin) with the Infinity - though the experience learned with p
  7. I think one of the big problems with restoring aircraft for flight has been a massive increase in insurance costs for airshow operations. I suspect that we British will continue to preserve aircraft - it seems a peculiar national characteristic - but the economics of keeping them airworthy will be increasingly challenging. Cheers Colin
  8. As Graham says, the charging of VAT and where applicable duty is not unreasonable - why should we be able to buy for less outside the UK? What I do object to are the inflated 'handling' fees charged by the postal services and couriers. If I could pay relevant taxes at point of sale (so that the package is shipped duty paid) I happily would do so to avoid my package being delayed and held for ransom. Certain major US photo dealers do this - you can pay in your currency with VAT and duty applied. This avoids any nasty surprises, hastens delivery as well as giving you a true total cost before sub
  9. Yes, that would be a sensible approach, but watch out for wrinkles turning into creases which will probably be impossible to correct Cheers Colin
  10. I would be worried that your method might result in removing the decal leaving thin lines underneath - i don't see you would gain anything by adding coats of varnish - that might be OK if you feel confident about paint touch up, I would try using some powerful setting solution - I use 'Ultimate decal setting solution extra strong' - let the decal soften up a bit, and then press down with a moist cotten bud - working on a small area of the decal at a time, This is powerful stuff and there is a risk of actually causing more damage, so a test would be advised.
  11. I guess the bottom line is that 109s sell - and modellers will be queuing up to by yet another, more detailed, more accurate 109 to add to the 20 or versions they already have. The Hurricane is another example - look at the fuss over the Arma Hurricanes. Special Hobby has earned a name for itself with decent versions of obscure types - but I suspect very few (if any) are big sellers. Perhaps SH are at a point where shifting some volume has become important. I won't buy this (I'm happy with my Tamy 109), but if it helps SH fund the production of those types you won't f
  12. You don't need the quick connector - this is handy if switching between multiple airbrushes, but not necessary, The Infinity has a standard 1/8 screw connector as well, as does your compressor. Cheers Colin
  13. To be honest, can't remember - probably amazon - just search for airbrush hoses. Mine is a braided nylon 3m. Cheers Colin
  14. ckw

    Masking over Decals

    I don't think the varnish would protect them from lifting - I've had decals lift after coating with both Future and varnish - but might help prevent water damage with the Sol R route. Ironically just last week I had a misplaced decal I needed to remove and masking tape just would not budge it - had to use gaffer tape Cheers Colin
  15. I had heard that but I use Xtracolor and Colourcoats enamel - well thinned - with no problems. I've also used Tamiya and Mr Hobby well thinned with Mr Color Leveling thinner. Now whether its because I'm being more careful and methodical with the .15 nozzle or not but I have had far fewer problems with clogs, splattering etc. with my 15 Infinity than I did with the .2 Ultra Cheers Colin
  16. ckw

    Masking over Decals

    A real pain! I have three techniques depending on what I need to do and how close to the decal I need to mask 1 - use Parafilm M. I suspect this could lift a really delicate decal which hadn't stuck well, but I've not had that issue 2 - make a mask over the decal with tin foil and then tape over that 3 - use Mr making Sol R which is soluble in water ... don't peal it off a decal, soak it off. Of course the decal will need to be sealed to prevent it becoming water damaged Cheers Colin
  17. Must be a good choice 'cause that's basically the set up I use. Actually I started with a H&S Ultra, but the Infinity is a better airbrush. A lot else depends where you're brushing. I have my compressor under a desk, so got a long braided hose so I could route it behind the desk an through a hoop above my spay both. I would say a spray both is a must (I use 2 like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_atf_aps_sr_pg1_1?ie=UTF8&adId=A04843303K7DGW6VLMOH3&url=%2FReaseJoy-Portable-Airbrush-Filter-Turntable%2Fdp%2FB07G
  18. I just use bog standard household ammonia (diluted as required). Dirt cheap - I think I got my bottle form The Range (but it was a good while ago). I've never quite understood why people bought Windex just to get a bit of ammonia. Yes, ammonia can be a bit smelly and you need to take a little care with it, but that goes for many of the products we use. Cheers Colin
  19. I sometimes use my motor tool for major surgery, but it surprisingly easy to go to far! Not only can you take away too much material, but the heat generated can melt the plastic. If you do use one, use it at low RPM. As well as sanding and filing, scraping with a blade can be helpful, particularly on concave surfaces - I use a curved blade (like a swann morton #2 or #10) I keep my scraping and cutting blades separate as scraping is not conducive to keeping a sharp edge! Thinning plastic is a useful technique even when building OOB, as plastic parts (eg. gear doors) are
  20. I think I had one with my Ultra - but if I did it's long lost. I just use a wad of damp tissue. Cheers Colin
  21. One of my favourites is an oldie called "The Hill" (1965) not a box office success, and apparently only got backing because of Connery's fame as Bond. This perhaps more a psychological drama than an action film, but shows that Connery really could act - interesting to wonder how his career would have developed had the Bond films not been such a huge success. Cheers Colin
  22. I too use the Lightcraft (or at least another version of if) and much prefer to the Optivisor - more comfortable, better field of vision. I use it over glasses. You can easily flip the lens out of line of sight and find I often forget I'm wearing it until my wife reminds me, I don't find the built in LED light much use (but I do have good workroom lighting) so prefer to leave out the batteries for a little more weight saving and comfort. Cheers Colin
  23. Maybe - but after postage probably no cheaper than the "generic" Chinese airbrush compressors available on Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Compressor-Horsepower-Regulator-Airbrushing/dp/B08HVRFHL5/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=airbrush+compressor&qid=1604052811&s=diy&sr=1-8 Of course this is a more powerful beast and may have wider applications for some. Personally I'd have a problem with the size. Also I can't see how noisy it is which could be an issue for many. With regard to buying from non-modelling shops, I agree that we som
  24. For the smaller stuff I use a hollow punch set like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004LAP3M0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I also have another set that goes down to 0.5mm). I just stick tamiya tape on a vinyl tile, give the punch a whack with a hammer (not too hard - don't want to go through the tile) and peel off a perfect disc. Of course you can punch discs out of plastic sheet for construction purposes as well. Cheers Colin
  25. The KP decals seem to be working - I remember this being a big problem with both the old Heller and Italeri versions. In fact for my Italeri float plane version I ended up masking and painting them as not only would the Italeri decals not conform, they actually fell off when dry! Cheers Colin
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