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Everything posted by ckw

  1. Is that actually the case? I could understand 'occasional' modellers jumping around, but I always thought more obsessive modellers stuck to one scale (with perhaps the odd foray into something else). The imperial system makes sense to me but I have no problem with metric. However I'd hate to see 1/72 disappear as I've been building to that scale all my life. For me 1/72nd is an ideal scale for aircraft as you can build and display the smallest and largest prototypes without to much trouble and display them together - sometimes it can be quite surprising to see the difference sizes of aircraft in a constant scale collection. Cheers Colin
  2. The plastic containers will help, and fuji film is pretty stable. However over time and changes in temperature (heat is the enemy) you may find the colours have shifted or faded. You may also find some fogging and less detail/increased graininess. Another problem is that having the film tightly wound in a roll for 30+ years may make it difficult to unwind - indeed heat may have caused the emulsion to 'weld' into a solid cylinder. I'm afraid I can't recommend a processor - when I did shoot film, I processed them myself. But I would suggest these will need to be handled by a specialist, not your average machine based photolab as simply extracting the film from the canister may be tricky. Provided you get some sort of image Photoshop (other brands - some free - are available) can these days perform near miracles in restoring images. Worst case, as long as there is something on the film you should be able to convert them to a decent B&W image. Cheers Colin
  3. Agree with much of what has been said regarding scale effect - I think part of the problem is that pure black against a light background (or vice versa) results in too much contrast, so unless that contrast can be toned down it doesn't look quite right. Another thing I consider is the nature of the decals themselves - if, when applying the primary decals, I notice any tendency toward silvering I usually ignore most of the tiny stencilling - to my mind a silvered stencil decal is much much worse than no decal at all! Cheers Colin
  4. Surely it should be Mania =(items in stock + items on order + items on wishlist + 1) / items actually required Cheers Colin
  5. yes I've learned that lesson the hard way. Now I am very careful to keep the chair exactly where it is so I can stand up and step on the canopy instead Cheers Colin
  6. Many years ago I used pollyfilla on a plywood base to create a sea scene. It worked pretty well, but after a couple of years, the pollyfilla had cracked in places and also warped the base slightly. It may well be the MDF will not be affected in the same way, perhaps others can comment on that. Cheers Colin
  7. I wonder if it would make a difference if Airfix had slapped a big 'not for resale' sticker or stamp on the box - make it less appealing for collectors. Though Airfix probably wouldn't care what happened to the kits once they got rid of them. Cheers Colin
  8. Greed is a very pejorative term. Ultimately capitalism is based on greed ... it simply would not work unless people attempted to make a profit. "Greed is good" as someone said. Brief aside - what's the difference between capitalism and communism? In capitalism, man exploits his fellow man. But in communism, it's the other way round. I think the term 'greed' applies when we think the profit is excessive, unreasonable or unfair in some way - it's a judgement call. In some areas, it is identified by most as unreasonable and hence laws are enacted to restrict it. For example, ticket touting. Now the problem with model kits is that there are at least 2 distinct audiences, who place different values on the same item. People like me who value only the model as a completed object, because I intend to build it, and others who consider only its collectable value - what it might be worth later on. (I'm not making any judgement here, I take a 'collector's view' when it comes to my records). Of course there are extremes - I guess there are many of you who fall somewhere in the middle. I came across an instance of this difference when at a model show Sunday. One trader was selling kits with no prices marked - if you wanted to buy something, he had to look it up on a list. He told me the reason was that price stickers on boxes could damage them, and hence reduce the value for collectors. I did buy a few kits of subjects I wanted to build, but I couldn't help wondering if I was paying a premium for a box which I couldn't care less about. Indeed, there was one item I really wanted but it was (in my view) stupid money as it was an old kit in a nearly pristine box. Of course to a collector the price may have been quite reasonable. Cheers Colin
  9. By my calculation, if it takes you 5 years to build a model costing 1 year of plastic, it makes you a miser I think there can be an element of snobbery when it comes to scratch builders, wood builders etc compared to plastic kit builders - there is a tendency to equate time and effort required to some sort of superiority. However, that ignores the fact the people engage in the hobby for different reasons. For example, if the purpose is to build a large collection of, say, British civil aircraft, then opting for difficult or long term builds would be counter-productive. Conversely if the goal is to build the ultimate representation of a Spitfire, different criteria apply. Neither is inherently better or worse.
  10. Ouch - I feel for you. I did the same thing once ... but with cellulose thinner. No recovery from that Cheers Colin
  11. How big is the loft? When faced with a similar problem, I was able to put down some floorboards and had my workroom up there. I wasn't stand up height but it was sit down height at the centre. I also added a Velux window for ventilation. Cheers Colin
  12. I have tried a number of Plastic Putty type fillers but have been unhappy with them because they tend to crumble at the edges when re-scribing. My preferred options are sprue-gloop which you already know about, and a superglue/talc mix which is my favourite for speed, final finish and re-scribing. But you have to work fast, and really only good for small areas (e.g. seams). For deep repairs I like Milliput fine (the white stuff) which is really strong. It takes a while to harden but can be worked with water until it does. But it can crumble when scribed, so once the bulk of the gap is filled, I'll add a final layer of superglue/talc Cheers Colin
  13. Exactly my confusion - I tried to resolve this conundrum when building my Rayak based D.520. There seemed to be a consensus that a) the aircraft probably were 'buff' but b) chamois could only be used internally. If a 'Jaune Sahara' did indeed exist, it would be a neat solution! I too have never come across this color before, and AFAIK it has never been produced by any model paint range. In the end I opted to use Chamois for my D.520 on the basis that if that wasn't the correct paint, it was a at least color that looked very like it. Cheers Colin
  14. Jaune Sahara looks a lot like Chamois to me ... given that Chamois isn't mentioned in that chart, I wonder if its an alternate name? Or perhaps a name for the same paint when used as an exterior finish (as may have been the case with some D.520s in North Africa). Cheers Colin
  15. ckw

    Sanding Seams

    This is where I would use gloop (sprue dissolved in Tamiya thin) - it forms a proper plastic weld and has the same finish and strength as the surrounding plastic making a consistent finish across the join easier. I too would go with files for removing/shaping excess, moving to fine sandpaper only for the final finish Cheers Colin
  16. I received a vinyl record last week with just a sticker. This is new - usually they arrive in a custom carboard envelope, and sometimes that is inside a padded envelope. Fortunately the disc was undamaged and the sticker was on a clear plastic wrapper. But vinyl is fragile and can be easily bent. I've registered my dissatisfaction (not that it will do much good!) Cheers Colin
  17. For masking delicate finishes I've found Parafilm to be the safest option Cheers Colin
  18. ckw

    Hole Punch

    I got a set off Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0852VVKRY down to .5mm Not sure what you want it for, but it works for me to punch circles from masking tape. Cheers Colin
  19. The only way I've found of doing this is to use a very fine scribing saw (and that isn't fool proof). For that reason I now prefer to user either 'gloop' composed from sprue and Tamiya extra thin cement or a superglue & talc paste as a filler where rescribing is required. BTW - not all superglues are the same when making a paste. The cheapo 5 for a pound tubes seem to dry up the moment they sense the talc. Gorrilla superglue works quite well, though working time is still very short. Cheers Colin
  20. Me too ... but no reason to feel bad about it. I enjoy looking at other's builds but the 'marketplace' is my incentive to go - often looking for specific out of production kits. With the demise of many hobby shops, I imagine this will be an ever increasing reason to attend. As for entrance fees, given I'm saving on P&P and hope to pick up some bargains, this seems fair. Certainly £10 is fine with me. Perhaps 'admission' should be charged at point of exit, at say 5% - 10% of your purchases . Maybe in a few years with advances in cashless operation this might be practical to do. Cheers Colin I
  21. ckw

    Creating a photo book

    As far as I recall Photobox lets you do pretty well anything you want. If you can't do it in the online book creation tool, there is a more powerful downloadable app which gives you complete creative control. Whichever way you service you choose, you could always add the captions onto the images you're going to add to the photobook Cheers Colin
  22. ckw

    Creating a photo book

    I've used photobox (https://www.photobox.co.uk/) for prints, posters, books etc. for many years and never had any problems. At the moment they are doing a 1/2 price sale on books (till May 16th). You create the book online through their system and will need to upload the images to the photobox site - but it is quick and simple. Cheers Colin
  23. Just tried this myself, and found it next to impossible to scratch off! I wonder if you are spraying too dry a coat? I lay down a wet coat which seems to work well - if you're a little heavy with the coat it doesn't seem to matter as it dries off just fine. As to removing it, levelling thinner works well and doesn't harm the plastic (including transparent parts). Cheers Colin
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