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ckw

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Everything posted by ckw

  1. I'm using AK extreme metal and was unsure whether their white or flat aluminium would work best. In my case I had fabric control surfaces on a metal airframe, and wanted the fabric to look different. In the end I decided to mix the white and matt 50/50 and I think that did the job pretty well. Cheers, Colin
  2. ckw

    Best aluminium paint?

    Agree with AK ... but I and others have had issues when it comes to masking. It's not quite as straight forward as some videos suggest. The secret seems to be light, almost dry, coats and very low tack masks (to be safe I use Parafilm). Alternatively, a coat of AKs intermediate Gauzy agent provides robust protection - though it is too shiny for my taste. However, you do need an airbrush to apply this. For brush application, I like Humbrol MetalCote Cheers, Colin
  3. Very nicely done - the blur effect on the runway is outstanding, and really gives a sense of motion, much more so than I would have imagined possible. I guess my only niggle is that the turbine blades are static ... not sure if there is a convincing way of portraying them in motion. Love the thrust reversers! Cheers, Colin
  4. While a coffee frother or similar will work, a dedicated paint stirrer designed for the purpose is perhaps a better idea for not much more money. I use a Trumpter one, and can dip it into a full tin of Colourcoats and stir away with no splashers or spills - though of course that hasn't stopped me knocking the tin over on occassion! Dedicated stirrers all seem to use a sort of scalloped flat disk which seems to mix the paint without sending it everywhere. Cheers Colin
  5. ckw

    Humbrol Clear Varnish

    I use watercolours for panel lines and washes ... on a gloss finish after decalling. Easy to apply and control the opacity and really easy to clean up! I seal everything with the final (usually matt/semi matt) top coat. Of course some things (like oil leaks) shouldn't be matt, so if required I add this afterwards with thinned gloss enamel. I did try a jar of MiG panel line wash, but could see no advantage to it and its costly stuff - mind you a jar would last for ages. Cheers Colin
  6. ckw

    Humbrol Clear Varnish

    No, that's humbrol clear, which is water soluble. the 'cotes' are solvent based. I have no experience of Humbrol clear.
  7. ckw

    Humbrol Clear Varnish

    The stuff in the tin certainly does, but I've never seen this with the bottled stuff (the Gloss/Matt/Satin cote in the 28ml bottles) - even on very old (30 year+) models. However, they were never in direct sunlight. But these days I prefer using Future/Klear. I airbrush a 50/50 IPA mix with Tamiya flat base used if I want a matt of satin finish. I find this provides a very nice finish which seems impervious to finger prints and general handling ... it also dries very quickly. The amount of flat coat you use gives an infinite range of possible sheens. You can also apply this by brush with no fear of brush marks, Longevity? Ask me 30 years from now ... only been using Future as a final finish for a couple of years. Cheers Colin
  8. For what its worth, I tend to scrap models that go wrong. Out of sight, out of mind. Yes a bit of a waste of time and money (though hopefully I will have gained some experience), but I find the short sharp pain of abandoning a project preferable to the lingering disappointment of a partially completed project haunting me from the shelf of doom. Some subjects seem to have a jinx - over the years I have attempted at least 4 different 1/72 Hurricanes from various companies (mainstream and short run) - you'd think that's a simple enough subject, a weekend build for most. But all of them ended in the bin. Finally got one to my satisfaction with the recent Alma kit. I think the reason for the failures was thinking I could achieve more in terms of extra detailing than I was capable of - I really wanted a great Hurricane! The Alma was a good kit OOB, so by reigning in my ambition and sticking to the instructions I managed to break the curse. I do have some kits on the shelf of doom, but these are examples where I realised I was running into trouble and put aside before things got out of hand. One day I may have the skills (or mindset) to complete them Cheers. Colin
  9. I'm not sure there are any wrong reasons (unless you claim a build that someone else did!), but to be honest, I think you set yourself up for a fall with your choice of kit - silk purses and sows ears, Kits vary in quality to a huge degree - some require more work and specialised skills than others, or more to the point, require work that you don't enjoy (e.g, some people hate masking, I find it therapeutic). There are modelling engineers out there who build the most amazing examples from scratch, others who are masters at weathering. Personally I never expect to achieve that level - not prepared to make the necessary commitment - I'm just building a collection which meets my own arbitrary standard. And a big part of this is in the selection of the appropriate kit - one with enough challenge to keep me interested, but not one which will push my abilities beyond the point of enjoyment. Cheers Colin
  10. I'm not sure, but do posts in the RFI forum go toward your post count? If so that might explain the number of meaningful content free posts. To be honest, I'm a little disappointed in RFI and having added a few examples, have given up. The time and effort to photograph and upload just isn't repaid in useful criticism ... basically, you're all too nice! Remember we learn from our mistakes, but only if they are pointed out to us. In a photography forum I once frequented, users had the option of submitting their images either for 'appreciation' or criticism. Perhaps something like that could be done here? E.g if a person wanted constructive (possibly harsh) criticism, then they could add "for review" or similar in the subject line. If this is not present, then posts would be restricted to questions about the model or technique. Cheers Colin
  11. I always use CA - pre-coating with Future/Kleer/Revive does work ,,, I've not had a fogging issue, even with the generic cheapo stuff from Wilko. The advantages are probably the quickest stronge join you can get as well as the fact it dries hard and can be sanded ... great for filling any gaps. The disadvantage is mistakes are harder to correct, unlike PVA which can easily be worked free and cleaned up. Cheers, Colin
  12. ckw

    Those Lockdown Blues

    I think there's a business op here - selling posters or wallpaper to pose behind you when on conference calls. There could be generic ones for a range of subjects, or, for a price you could have one made up especially for you (perhaps with your own name as 'author' in the spine of some volumes). Cheers Colin
  13. My favorite is Mr Color Leveliing thinner - strips acrylic and enamel but doesn't harm plastic or transparencies. Mind you, more expensive than IPA - some people object to the smell, but I rather like it. Cheers, Colin
  14. ckw

    Which Primer?

    Probably better as a primer because it's very like paint - but less effective as a filler, so any minor surface blemishes will still be apparent whereas 1200 and more so 1000 can fill shallow scratches to some extent. Cheers, Colin
  15. Hope for the best on this - just a few notes on my experience: - a coat of Gauzy Agent did allow me to mask Xtreme metal successfully, but in my case, I wasn't happy with the uniform high shine - unlike your subject. I thought I needed some panels to appear duller. - with this in mind for my next attempt I decided not to use a protective coat. Instead, I painted the model in reverse, As the subject was a Japanese Kate. I first sprayed the whole aircraft in Colourcoats honomur red, then masked off the roundels and stripes and applied the AK this worked pretty well, though a couple of sessions were needed to prevent any hint of red showing through where it wasn't wanted. Interestingly previous masking problems I had occurred with a Mr Surfacer primer and a gloss black acrylic (Mr Hobby) base coat. Or just Mr Surfacer. After completing most of my Kate, I took a chance and masked off some of the metallic areas to fix a panel I'd managed to mess up. I had no problem using Tammy tape. Which leads me to believe that the undercoat is the critical factor. On my next attempt I'm going to try an enamel black as an undercoat and see what happens. Cheers, Colin
  16. We're starting to see this sort of thing everywhere - for example in the USA over a 100 statues commemorating Confederate figures have been removed due to slavery associations. Obviously there are arguments for and against, but I do worry that sweeping currently unpleasant aspects of our past under the carpet seems very close to re-writing history. I can perhaps accept that public displays (e.g. box art) that may cause offence should be handled with some sensitivity, but I see no need to extend this to the decals, where the decision to use them or not is up to the modeller. Terrible things were done by the Japanese and Germans during the war - but also the allies. It happened and surely its better to learn from it than try and erase all traces. As the philosopher George Santayana said "Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it." which is a pretty good argument for accurate historical modelling Cheers, Colin
  17. ckw

    Which Primer?

    I thin (with Mr color levelling thinner) to about the same consistency as for Mr Hobby paints "skimmed milk", .4 needle, about 15psi ... sprays beautifully for a few minutes then I get the spattering. I think bmwh548 had the solution above which I will try next time ... it is a crap airbrush I use for this, but my others have finer needles, not so suitable for wide area coverage. Cheers, Colin
  18. ckw

    Which Primer?

    You may well be right - which is why the quick cotton bub wipe works. I'll try removing the guard next time Thanks Colin
  19. ckw

    Which Primer?

    In effect that's what I did, except I got mine "free" with a compressor - but one thing to beware of. Cheapo airbrushes often come with cheap rubber seals which can be destroyed by "hot" cleaners (such as cellulose thinner). One of my freebies died of seal rot within a week, though the other has been working fine for a couple of years now. I think the mistake I made with the first one is that I attempted a full strip down clean, whereas the other one I just flush through with thinners after spraying (I only use it for Mr Surfacer). One other thing - I find it prone to tip dry with Mr Surfacer, which is initially manifested by drops of Mr Surfacer landing on the model. I keep some cotton buds and thinner on hand to periodically clean the tip. As for those drops that do end up on the model, well more often than not, the self levelling properties of Mr Surface thinned with levelling thinner mean they magically disappear. If not they are very easily sanded out. Cheers, Colin
  20. True ... but they do tend to linger! I'm hoping they do re-open here soon, but assuming entry will be limited I think we'll need time limits as well! Personally I can spend an hour or more trying to make up my mind what to buy Cheers, Colin
  21. I wouldn't think the .35 nozzle would really be considered a "detail" airbrush, but all things are relative ... I work in 1/72 and use an Ultra with a .2 needle for general work and an Infinity with a .15 needle for detail. I think the key thing to understand is that as you use finer needles, paint choice and preparation are increasingly critical, as well as careful cleaning of the airbrush - personally I avoid aqueous acrylics (because of tip drying) for fine work in favour of enamels, Lacquers are probably better still if you can use them safely. Cheers, Colin
  22. ckw

    One hit Wonders.

    Not really - her follow up "Big Mistake" also went to #2 in the UK charts and I think she had a couple of others in the top 10
  23. ckw

    One hit Wonders.

    How about "Another Girl, Another Planet" by the Only Ones - although a very influential band, I think this was their only single that charted ... but what a track! To my mind a perfect pop single. Cheers Colin
  24. Yes, that's the nature of Metalcote - it won't respond nicely to anything brushed over it. I think the only option is to spray the glosscote Cheers, Colin
  25. The "best" choice could be interpreted in many ways! But for ease of use I'd vote for Mr Hobby. thinned with Mr Color Levelling Thinner - this combination appears very tolerant of variations in dilution and air pressure - I'm struggling to think of an spraying mishap with Mr Hobby - reasonably good range of colors - better than Tamiya. But where possible, I prefer enamels for finish and control - typically Colourcoats or Xtracolor (typically depending on availability of the colours I need). Getting the paint/thinner mix and air pressure right seems more critical, I'd also suggest not all white spirit is the same - if possible use the companies' own thinner (Naptha based), or failing that use a white spirit which has not been 'modified' (eg. low odor). Humbrol would be a last resort for me, esp. the glosses - though I should say some ancient (30 years!) tins of the old authentic range sprayed beautifully. These days Humbol is just too hit and miss, though I still use it for brushed parts because its easy to get hold of. Mr Surfacer - I've been spraying this for a couple of years (1200 or 1000) using a real cheapo Chinese knockoff brush, and it has worked perfectly - never even had a strip down clean. I spray it very much thinned - almost like water at around 15psi. After a few minutes, I start to get minor spattering (due to tip dry) but a quick wipe of the tip with a cotton bud dipped in cellulose sorts that. With such a thin consistency, any minor spatters that do occur disappear when dry. Cheers, Colin
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