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ckw

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Everything posted by ckw

  1. I had this issue recently with Galleria Matt - my own fault, I had an airbrush issue and sprayed on too heavy a coat. Problem was solved with a coat of Future and then respraying the matt. Cheers Colin
  2. ckw

    Model show economics

    I think a lot of that would depend on location. If the show is held in or near a town centre, yes, I imagine members of the public would come in out of curiosity - or in a desperate attempt to get their kids off the Playstation for 15 minutes - provided the cost isn't too high. I don't think they would be inclined to travel any distance - indeed, unless the show is in front of their face the general public are unlikely to be aware of it. On profitability - I don't think there is any question of traders being able to sell at shows, the question is "is it worth their while"? Now that most small traders have an online presence and people have become accustomed to buying online, I think the answer is probably no for many. Of course there are other reasons a trader may want to attend - to see the show, to promote a new product etc. but it would be a mistake to put any reliance on traders as a source of show revenue. Cheers Colin
  3. ckw

    Model show economics

    Well I have no experience with model shows, but past experience with photographic exhibitions would suggest that a significant source of income - if not the main source - would be sponsorship. For example, if not the show itself, how about sponsored model competitions? Cheers Colin
  4. Me too esp. the used kit dealers. Sure its nice to see the clubs' displays - both for inspiration and reassurance that my models aren't complete rubbish - but I'm not sure I'd travel and pay for this alone. But of course other people have other reasons for going to shows. Now from my standpoint, it seems reasonable that space should be paid for in proportion to how much is used, not by who is using it, But from the variety of views expressed here what does seem clear is that no one seems to have a basis on which to provide an answer. Perhaps Telford could be an opportunity to get some more data - a survey perhaps to try and get an insight on why people attend, what they expect to spend, favourite aspects of the show etc. As an aside it does seem to me that thanks to the pandemic, many traders have upped their game considerably when it comes to online sales - and have found it worthwhile. My LMS has literally halved it's high street presence as online sales have done do well. This is a significant change which I think makes what happened in the past pretty much meaningless. There may well come a point where shows will have to give traders incentives to turn up. Cheers Colin
  5. The problem is, how many versions of Spits (or whatever) do you produce? For a big company, like say Airfix, how many kits do you need to sell to make it worth while. Assuming that perhaps the majority of Airfix buyers are not experts, then a Spitfire is a Spitfire whether its a Mk.I or IX. If they produce both, yes there will be some people who would want both but I suspect these are a minority and hence the majority of their Spitfire market will be split across two different kits resulting in less profit per kit. Cheers Colin
  6. Nice pics - interesting looking show ... almost 'Flying Legends' by another name? Cheers Colin
  7. I'm not convinced by preshading - as in darkening the panel lines and adjacent. To my eye it looks a bit hyper real ... like HDR photos. Not for me - but then much in modelling is a matter of fashion and taste. However this is different to varying paint tones on some panels - which can be very effective and looks realistic to my eye, particularly on larger scales. Not sure it's always worthwhile at 1/72nd with some exceptions. Cheers Colin
  8. I have no doubt Tamiya were able to do this - the only explanation I can see is that they did not think their target market would make it worthwhile to do so. Maybe sales of the Mk. IX were not what they hoped. Cheers Colin
  9. You can also get pads of waxed paper for palette use. £2 for 30 sheets at The Works Cheers Colin
  10. Fair enough ... consider 'so' to represent "the introduction of additional red tape without fully providing procedural support has led to people finding it easier to trade through and buy through Amazon". Cheers Colin
  11. Brilliant isn't it ... small traders are forced to jump trough hoops so that Amazon and the like get more trade contributing almost nothing in tax to the UK economy. Cheers Colin
  12. The problem is that the government says something and seems to expect it to happen immediately. There seems to be no allowance for the time required for any group or organisation to put plans into effective action. I suspect that the truth of the matter is that the checking covid passports has been a major problem, taking much longer than anticipated. I know that at a local football match, delays in checking resulted in many people missing the start of the match and huge queues blocking local streets. The club had to refund tickets. This puts the Telford organisers in an awkward position ... do they stick with the plans they have and risk irate visitors insisting they don't need a passport, or drop the plans only to find the requirement has been reinstated days before hand .... Johnston has already hinted that tougher measures may be imposed if we don't behave ourselves. Cheers Colin
  13. I just this moment applied for a pass (my 2nd) using the NHS smartphone app. I got it immediately, but it expires in one month. Which is annoying because you can bet in one month I'll need it and forgotten I need to renew it. Cheers Colin
  14. I use a variety of wires from different sources. Tinned copper is what I often use, and have never had a problem with sagging but having said that, all my builds are 1/72 so no really long runs. I think using PVA is the ideal adhesive as a) it doesn't need to be strong b) easy to rectify mistakes without marring paintwork and c) being less rigid than say superglue can absorb shocks. In recent times the e-cigarette has resulted in a whole range of fine wires becoming available - including flat wires. I got a selection of spools from the Crazywire company. I have no experience using the more exotic wires! The biggest problem I find is not bending or kinking the wire when putting in place. I use flat shovel faced tweezers as pointy ones can easily bend the wire if you squeeze too tight. And you do have to trim to the exact length before fixing in place. For me this is often a bit of trial and error as in many cases its hard to accurately measure with dividers. Just start a bit long and trim bits off the wire till it fits. I've also used stretched sprue, but to my eye just doesn't look so good. And I have had some bad experiences with elastic type threads (rotting or breaking over time). Cheers Colin
  15. I use real wire on all my biplane rigging. It's tedious, but nothing looks more like wire rigging than wire! My method is to do this last of all, carefully measuring required lengths with dividers. Depending on the kit, I may pre-drill 'seats' for the wire ends (not necessarily holes). Wires are secured with PVA. As you suggest, pre-rigging with wire is I think doomed to failure - the slightest touch will probably bend the wire which will then need to be replaced. Cheers Colin
  16. ckw

    RLM 79 confusion

    Perhaps you could explain that to my wife Quite. I see colour chips as a sort of Platonic ideal ... they are what the colour should be, but that does not mean that any specific aircraft at a given point in time appeared in that exact shade. Personally I'm happy to accept what the better model paint manufacturer's propose as RLM 79 or whatever. Life is too short to go chasing after variations which can probably never be proved one way or another. Cheers Colin
  17. Yes that and modified car exhausts. I know they can sound cool, but lets keep them for track days and the like - not residential areas! Last week I was woken at 3am by some idiot with a modified system coupled with multiple backfires. Sounded like WWIII had erupted! But a solution may be coming https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/car-news/107097/new-noise-cameras-to-target-loud-car-exhausts Cheers Colin
  18. ckw

    RLM 79 confusion

    Just wondering ... I'm sure we have all had the experience of painting a room and having to buy an extra tin of paint only to find that the new tin differed slightly from the old tin. Indeed the better paint manufacturers include batch numbers on the tin to help you get an exact match across multiple tins. On the assumption that modern paint production is at least as good as that used in WWII, batches of paint then must have had some variation at point of production. If a given batch was not an exact match to an RLM colour chip, was it poured down the drain or was a degree of variation acceptable? Surely in a war stressed economy (both for allies and axis) such waste would be hard to justify. Hence I would suspect there would be at least as much variation in paint colour as there is across different batches of B&Q Magnolia. Cheers Colin
  19. I've often seen these guys perform - under various names - and have often seen the wingwalker climb back into the cockpit before landing. I think however when 'guest' wingwalkers are involved (charity events and the like), there people are more permanently fixed to the support as they won't have been fully trained on how to get back into the cockpit. Cheers Colin
  20. I use a combination of Future and Tamiya Flat base (the mix thinned with IPA for airbrushing). By varying the mix ratio you can get what ever degree of sheen you need. E.g I use 10 parts future to 1 part flat base to give a near gloss finish; 10 future to 4 parts flat base for near matt finish, and anything between those ratios for various semi gloss finishes. Cheers Colin
  21. I use oil washes and white spirit to remove excess 1 - As I usually use enamel paints, I add a protective acrylic layer - Future/Klear after the paint has had at least a day to dry 2 - apply the oil wash, trying to avoid too much surplus 3- let wash dry a little, but not cure (5-10 min) 4 - use a piece of paper towel dampened with white spirit to remove excess - it musn't be wet as it might burn through the acrylic layer, and will tend to suck the wash out of the panel lines etc. Cheers Colin
  22. A rare disappointment from Hobby 2000 - I've attempted 2 of the Dragon kits and they are real pigs IMHO. On first glance they look good with decent detail, but fit is atrocious. I recently completed the recent Italeri kit, which is I believe is based the Academy release. Similar levels of detail, but it goes together beautifully. At the moment I'd say it's your best option for a P-38J Cheers Colin
  23. ckw

    Joint flaws

    Very good point Heather - I should have mentioned that. As I always give the model a wipe with IPA or Mr Hobby Levelling Thinner before priming/painting (which removes Sharpie) this hasn't been an issue. But marker ink does have remarkable powers of coming to the surface - as anyone who has tried to paint over a child's marker scribbles on a wall will know! (Tip: seal the scribbles with clear nail varnish first). Cheers Colin
  24. ckw

    Joint flaws

    OK here is my miracle cure - a tip I picked up on BM, but unfortunately I can't remember from whom ... anyway, who ever you are, thanks. Run a black sharpie over all joints or other filling after I think I've sanded to perfection. Then lightly sand off the sharpie ink. Any areas that need further work will become very obvious. Usually I apply the Sharpie before what would be the final polish sanding. Cheers Colin
  25. There is a very good thread on the YP-80's in Italy here: Which includes eye witness artwork with stripes on the aircraft, making for an unusual and colourful alternative to NM. Here's how mine turned out The photo has a slight blue cast - the grey is actually a bit warmer that that in real. I'm afraid I don't recall which grey I actually ended up using, but there are suggestions in the thread I referenced. BTW this model is the Sword P-80A kit Cheers Colin
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