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Everything posted by nheather

  1. The nozzle will have opposing flats - to use a wrench on. Nozzle really shouldn't be on tight - they are easy to snap. So just cut a rectangle out of a piece is plastic same width as across the flats. That will be enough to work as a wrench. I imagine any plastic sheet 1mm or thicker would work. Of course thin metal sheet would be even better but harder to cut. A flat wooden lolly or coffee stirrer would probably work too. Cheers, Nigel
  2. Everything that has been said plus I would add starting with small drills and working your way up to the size required in small increments. Cheers, Nigel
  3. Don’t know anything about them but a quick google found this https://www.3dprintmonkey.co.uk/elegoo-mars-pro-2k-lcd-screen-1771-p.asp Cheers, Nigel
  4. Personally, I think using a programmable controller like a PIC or an Arduino is going to be the easiest. You could use astables but because the flashing isn’t regular you would need at least two then logic and trigger circuits to combine them to create a single LED drive with the combination of slow and fast flash. By the time you have worked all that out the Arduino would be much simpler and cheaper if you value your time. Cheers, Nigel
  5. I have just bought this and the ‘wheels and tracks’ book - both are excellent. One thing I would say about the faces book is that most of the examples are for large scale figures and busts - there is one small section (6 pages) for 1:35 which is what I’m interested in. Cheers, Nigel
  6. Nice. I would love one of these but I feel that my meagre modelling schools don't justify the high price tag. Need to work through some more cheaper models and try to improve my skills first.
  7. I think it looks excellent, I’d be over the moon if I could achieve that level of finish. One minor point for your next AFV build though, although tank interiors were painted white or ivory that rarely (maybe never) applied to the hatches. The reason that when open, a white hatch would make the tank much easier to spot by enemy aircraft. Cheers, Nigel
  8. I agree with this frustration. If they sell a paint called dark green and you read some advice that this is a good match for RLM 71 then if it isn’t quite right then fair enough as they never claimed it was anything other than dark green. But if a manufacturer sells a paint as RLM 71 Dunkelgrun then the dried paint should look like RLM 71. And if you painted samples from different manufacturers claiming to be RLM 71 then they should all look the same, be indistinguishable from each other. Cheers, Nigel
  9. Personally I don’t use much Tamiya paint but there is one attraction for me - availability, because I don’t have any model shops reasonably near. So if I want one particular Vallejo or AK then I have to order online, often paying more for the shipping than the paint. I would love to have a local hobby shop that I could just pop into whenever I need supplies. Instead, I feel I have to order online and wait to bulk up the order to make the shipping worthwhile. So here, Tamiya is attractive because there is a local craft store, the UK equivalent of Hobby Lobby but not as good, where I can pic
  10. I don’t entirely agree with this, of all the acrylic paints I have tried I find that Tamiya are one of the best to airbrush. I do agree that they are a pain to brush paint though. One thing to bear in mind about Tamiya acrylics is that they are not water-based like many of the alternative makes so you must use their thinner (or equivalent) which is alcohol based. This is the main reason why they don’t brush paint very well, the solvent evaporates very quickly so the paint literally dries as you are painting - and there is a tendency to lift paint that has started to d
  11. Interested to hear how you paint British WWII AFV interiors. White - is it actually white, or some kind of off-white Even if it was white do you paint it as white or use an off white What colour wash do you use I’m not considering detailed interiors, just some colour that can be seen through top hatches Cheers, Nigel
  12. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/world-us-canada-56792530 Hopefully this one looks recoverable, but I'm sure there will be a fair amount of damage and a lot of time and effort to get her flying again.
  13. So my experiment continues. The first thing to note is that by no means am I a prolific or focussed builder, I get easily distracted so I’m not one to sit for hours at a time working on a model. But this week I have been off work so I have put in three or four one hour long sessions working on the PE on my Tamiya Universal Carrier - first thing to note, I reckon that a determined person could assemble the OOB kit including part preparation but without any painting in under four hours. By contrast I have managed to put the PE on the top deck that runs down the centre of the passen
  14. My Proops drills arrived today - a little pricey at £7 for 10 - but light years better than the jobber ones from eBay. I’m drilling plastic figures for pinning onto bases. The jobber ones just spin and make an indent at best. The Proops ones cut through the plastic like a hot knife through butter. Cheers, Nigel
  15. I’ve decided to educate myself with PE, like many it has scared me off starting some kits in my stash. So I have picked a kit that I don’t made going bad - it’s a Tamiya Universal Carrier in 1:35 and I have the Eduard PE kit. The PE kit has around 100 parts, the Tamiya kit has around 80 parts to give an idea of scale. I read that many are selective in what PE they use and rarely use all the parts in a PE kit. I don’t have that expertise yet so I have decided to use all the PE to educate myself about what changes are worth the effort and what are not.
  16. Have you used this, is it really any different to CA, would you recommend it. I have Zap thin, medium and slow already, don’t mind spending the best part of a tenner for some of this but don’t want to find that it is just plain old CA with a fancy name. Cheers, Nigel
  17. Coincidentally, there is an adjacent post by someone asking the same about Milliput. You can try this. Cut of the piece you want to use. Put in the microwave for a few seconds. Don’t blast it or you might turn it to liquid, just do it in steps, maybe start with 5 seconds, see what it is like, try another 5 seconds and so on. If it is very old, you may need to cut out a bit where the blue and yellow join as it has cured a little. Cheers, Nigel
  18. I am doing an experiment, a bit of learning exercise. I have a fairly cheap model that I’m prepared to sacrifice as a test bed - a Tamiya 1:35 Universal Carrier (Bren Gun Carrier if you prefer) and the Eduard photo etch kit. The photo etch is around 100 parts and you can well imagine that as the Universal Carrier is small, even in 1:35, most of the photo etch parts are tiny. So rather than be selective about which PE to use I’ve decided to try and use it all as a learning exercise, to teach me what PE features are worth it and which aren’t. One thing I’m no
  19. Not tried it, but I too have heard a few seconds in the microwave rejuvenates green stuff so I reckon it would work the same for Milliput. Cheers, Nigel
  20. I admire your commitment to modify the standard RCAF kit, not something I could even dream of doing, mind you when I see a lot of the work done on this site I am simply left in awe. Personally, when I look at the Super Chipmunk, the only reason I can tell it is a Chipmunk is because I am aware of the history of its origin. Without that if you were to show me pictures of an RCAF Chipmunk and a Super Chipmunk I might admit some similarities but I would conclude that they are different aircraft. The Super Chipmunk has a bigger engine (70% more powerful), the cowling is co
  21. Yep, that’s a Super Chipmunk. Designed for aerobatics, more powerful engine, bigger control surfaces for aerobatics - look at the rudder for example. The kits you have been looking at are the standard service aircraft used by the RAF and RCAF. The RCAF did have a bubble canopy but it is still pretty much standard, not like the Super Chipmunk that your grandfather flew. There are radio control models, that’s how I was aware of it, but to my knowledge, not a plastic model. Example of one of the RC models https://www.stevewebb.co.uk/index.php?pi
  22. You said that your grandfather flew aerobatics in a Chipmunk, just checking that this wasn’t in a Super Chipmunk rather than a RCAF Chipmunk. Do you have photos of the aircraft he flew? Cheers, Nigel
  23. It appeals to me but like many I struggle to use it. Think I have spent as much on photo etch tools (bending jigs, pliers, CA applicators, positioning probes) than on all my other tools and comparatively they barely get used. I really question some of the tinier parts (because of my lack of skill) and question whether the slightly mis-positioned detail they add is worth the CA scarring around them. And some parts don’t look right because they are flat - a good example is that I do 1:35 armour and PE sets often include chains - that doesn’t look right. The o
  24. What metal, how thick, what size holes, are you looking for something hand held or on a drill press. Whatever the answers, I feel the solution lies in the drill bits rather than the thing that spins them. Cheers, Nigel
  25. Well they have arrived - the good news is that they were shipped and delivered very quickly. Now the bad news. Firstly, one of the bags only contained 4 drills (there should be 10) and I found a tear in the bottom of the bag so I guess they have been falling out. If that were the only problem it would be easily resolved. But I tried a few and they are very blunt compared with what I had been using - I may as well use piano wire, probably no worse. So I’m sending them back. Cheers, Nigel
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