Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

GazB

Questions about Pledge Revive It (Future)

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone.

 

So I bit the bullet and ordered some of this stuff after my other Pledge Multi-Purpose Wax got a bit contaminated from a dirty brush, making it not quite as clean as it should be. I discovered Pledge Revive It Floor Gloss was essentially Future and bought some. However, when I've done a quick test with a bit of brush painting like I would previously, I noticed two things.

 

flore_care_multi_surface_finish.png?la=e

 

A: First, it seems to be thicker, almost the consistency of Tamiya's clear gloss when unthinned.

B: Second thing I noticed was that its not drying to a consistent finish. I tried a hair dryer to see how long it would take, and some patches of the coated area went more satin, and others more gloss. Giving it an almost patchy appearance. 

 

Considering I've always heard this is the wonder stuff, I'm scratching my head a bit. It seems to be glossier around small particles of dust that got caught in the paint, and while weathering would likely mute down a lot of this, I'm not feeling a lot of confidence in applying this stuff to the more visible parts of my kit. Starting to wonder if it was worth the £13 if its not going to give a better or equal finish to my last bottle.

 

Does it need to be thinned with water or something, longer drying time etc? I'm genuinely confused so any pointers would be appreciated. 

 

Thanks,

Gaz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, £13 for a bottle, what is it, liquid gold? I just prefer to use a regular clear, in either gloss, satin or matt. Sure, this stuff has a few uses, but I've never used it much myself. Sorry I can't be of more help..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
16 minutes ago, Steve Noble said:

Wow, £13 for a bottle, what is it, liquid gold? I just prefer to use a regular clear, in either gloss, satin or matt. Sure, this stuff has a few uses, but I've never used it much myself. Sorry I can't be of more help..

I suppose long term it might be cheaper since every time I'd need a new bottle of gloss I'd be paying more for the postage than the pot. Also when I did a bit of brush painting with my Tamiya X-22 it started to remove paint for some reason. 

 

But yeah, £13 ain't cheap, especially if the stuff isn't doing what its supposed to be. I remember trying to do the canopy dip with the multi-surface wax like everyone used to try. Didn't work then. Never seems to work the way everyone else does it, and I'm really confused as to why.

 

Gaz

Edited by GazB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 minutes ago, GazB said:

 I remember trying to do the canopy dip with the multi-surface wax like everyone used to try. Didn't work then. Never seems to work the way everyone else does it, and I'm really confused as to why.

 

Gaz

I could never master the canopy dip either. Always ended up a right old mess, so you're not alone. I used to just polish the canopies with Tamiya fine rubbing compound to restore a nice gloss if I'd removed any seams etc..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
35 minutes ago, Steve Noble said:

I could never master the canopy dip either. Always ended up a right old mess, so you're not alone. I used to just polish the canopies with Tamiya fine rubbing compound to restore a nice gloss if I'd removed any seams etc..

Its like when I tried tinting clear parts, and I do the same thing other people did, but they fogged up. Its really weird.

 

Gaz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Steve Noble said:

Wow, £13 for a bottle, what is it, liquid gold? I just prefer to use a regular clear, in either gloss, satin or matt. Sure, this stuff has a few uses, but I've never used it much myself. Sorry I can't be of more help..

Well £13 for what 650ml, (22fl oz), 10ml in a pot of Tamiya, so that equals 65 pots at say £1.55 a pot, so not that expensive when you look at it like that.

Just a pity it doesn't seem to be that good

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, colin said:

Well £13 for what 650ml, (22fl oz), 10ml in a pot of Tamiya, so that equals 65 pots at say £1.55 a pot, so not that expensive when you look at it like that.

Just a pity it doesn't seem to be that good

Daft thing is it has the same formula number as Klear, yet it seems to be nothing like the stuff everyone raves about. I may just have to go back to my old stuff :(

 

What's additionally annoying is that the cap has three holes you have to puncture into to use (didn't seem to have any kind of twisting action and didn't tell you how to open it to use that). All well and good for pouring, except no way to close it up again and its not pressure sealed, so if it tips it leaks. Put some blue tack on the top of it, and have to hope it never gets knocked over.

 

Gaz

Edited by GazB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

By the looks the cap is one of those pull up to pour push back down to seal, but like you I've never like those types as they can drip if knocked over

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, colin said:

By the looks the cap is one of those pull up to pour push back down to seal, but like you I've never like those types as they can drip if knocked over

Wish they gave directions on how to open it. I pulled and twisted that bit of cap for ages to no avail ><

 

Gaz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 19/05/2019 at 08:44, colin said:

By the looks the cap is one of those pull up to pour push back down to seal, but like you I've never like those types as they can drip if knocked over

I have this and you can just unscrew the whole cap which is much easier

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/18/2019 at 4:06 PM, GazB said:

 

 

A: First, it seems to be thicker, almost the consistency of Tamiya's clear gloss when unthinned.

B: Second thing I noticed was that its not drying to a consistent finish. I tried a hair dryer to see how long it would take, and some patches of the coated area went more satin, and others more gloss. Giving it an almost patchy appearance. 

 

Considering I've always heard this is the wonder stuff, I'm scratching my head a bit. It seems to be glossier around small particles of dust that got caught in the paint, and while weathering would likely mute down a lot of this, I'm not feeling a lot of confidence in applying this stuff to the more visible parts of my kit. Starting to wonder if it was worth the £13 if its not going to give a better or equal finish to my last bottle.

 

Does it need to be thinned with water or something, longer drying time etc? I'm genuinely confused so any pointers would be appreciated. 

 

Thanks,

Gaz

FWIW I've been using this new stuff for three years as I have many,many bottles of the old stuff that is eBay fodder at silly prices: Having both I can speak from actual experience not guesswork.

 

roomb2.jpg&key=ac7ccf1984498d5a7bb4d7796

 

Spraying is  easy, 75% Pledge 25% 99.9 IPA 5% Glycerine (approx). In my case I normally use Mr Color GX UV CUT/Mr Levelling but i've tried this on a few customer builds with Alclad NMF ( that really doesn't like lots of lacquer thinner on top) and it dried to a nice hard glossy finish without problems in about 3-4 hours in a room at 18 Centigrade/30% humidity. For spraying I use an Iwata HP-TH with a 0.5mm needle at abut 15 PSI.

 

If you get orange peeling, thats not the material, its spraying technique, humidity and dilution error, try harder & buy a cheap humidity gauge from ebay!

 

Lots of folk spray Future/Pledge/Klear and if you google you'll find lots of articles and happy users but they seem to be folk who are quite advanced in their skills , so its definitely do-able but your airbrush-fu must be strong as they say in Beijing. Re brushes, I only use them to create naff expressionist art and paint walls , so nothing to add here.

 

Canopy dips: All these were done using this new stuff and its the same as the old. Canopy dipping isn't rocket science, google a few articles and its quite simple and effective, you need to master wicking away the excess. BTW my canopy dip is at least 2 years old in an airtight sealed jar (first photo, gold top jar in front of the "old" Klear) and works fine as the results show. It even did wonders for the horrible Anigrand clear resin canopy in the first build below.

 

You'll find Pledge etc. is actually very useful but like any material adapted for a new purpose, you'll need to master it as opposed to constantly looking for one shot magic bullet fixes. Right now I'm learning to french polish and if you think using Pledge is hard...skills are earned not crowd sourced.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

See now I got told to use Pledge floor care finish, although I haven’t purchased any yet.

 

Steve.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, azureglo said:

FWIW I've been using this new stuff for three years as I have many,many bottles of the old stuff that is eBay fodder at silly prices: Having both I can speak from actual experience not guesswork.

 

roomb2.jpg&key=ac7ccf1984498d5a7bb4d7796

 

Spraying is  easy, 75% Pledge 25% 99.9 IPA 5% Glycerine (approx). In my case I normally use Mr Color GX UV CUT/Mr Levelling but i've tried this on a few customer builds with Alclad NMF ( that really doesn't like lots of lacquer thinner on top) and it dried to a nice hard glossy finish without problems in about 3-4 hours in a room at 18 Centigrade/30% humidity. For spraying I use an Iwata HP-TH with a 0.5mm needle at abut 15 PSI.

 

If you get orange peeling, thats not the material, its spraying technique, humidity and dilution error, try harder & buy a cheap humidity gauge from ebay!

 

Lots of folk spray Future/Pledge/Klear and if you google you'll find lots of articles and happy users but they seem to be folk who are quite advanced in their skills , so its definitely do-able but your airbrush-fu must be strong as they say in Beijing. Re brushes, I only use them to create naff expressionist art and paint walls , so nothing to add here.

 

Canopy dips: All these were done using this new stuff and its the same as the old. Canopy dipping isn't rocket science, google a few articles and its quite simple and effective, you need to master wicking away the excess. BTW my canopy dip is at least 2 years old in an airtight sealed jar (first photo, gold top jar in front of the "old" Klear) and works fine as the results show. It even did wonders for the horrible Anigrand clear resin canopy in the first build below.

 

You'll find Pledge etc. is actually very useful but like any material adapted for a new purpose, you'll need to master it as opposed to constantly looking for one shot magic bullet fixes. Right now I'm learning to french polish and if you think using Pledge is hard...skills are earned not crowd sourced.

 

 

I mean, I never sprayed the previous stuff through my airbrush given that ammonia seemed to be the only guaranteed means of cleaning it out and not risking destruction of the airbrush itself. When using the old stuff I just used a soft brush. However, when trying this with the new stuff, it was leaving brush marks instead of self-leveling and then it was drying to an inconsistent finish. The only difference was in the product rather than the application, and where the old stuff was more like milk, the new stuff is like unthinned Tamiya paint. It doesn't seem to flow or lay down as well and even days after application (while dry) doesn't look to have dried the same way, offering a collage of satin and glossy patches.

 

I don't tend to build aircraft myself. I have a few 1/48 builds but, two of the canopies had already been painted up. The only one I might apply it to would be a 1/48 helicopter canopy. But yeah I've only ever brush applied the Pledge and so far the new one doesn't seem to like it much at all :(

 

Gaz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, speedy said:

See now I got told to use Pledge floor care finish, although I haven’t purchased any yet.

 

Steve.

Its got so many names and changes so often. I looked all over the place to try to confirm I was getting the right one, and one post I saw mentioned those over at Finescale Modeler confirmed the formula code for Future/Klear was the same as this stuff.

 

Gaz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, GazB said:

I mean, I never sprayed the previous stuff through my airbrush given that ammonia seemed to be the only guaranteed means of cleaning it out and not risking destruction of the airbrush itself. When using the old stuff I just used a soft brush. However, when trying this with the new stuff, it was leaving brush marks instead of self-leveling and then it was drying to an inconsistent finish. The only difference was in the product rather than the application, and where the old stuff was more like milk, the new stuff is like unthinned Tamiya paint. It doesn't seem to flow or lay down as well and even days after application (while dry) doesn't look to have dried the same way, offering a collage of satin and glossy patches.

 

I don't tend to build aircraft myself. I have a few 1/48 builds but, two of the canopies had already been painted up. The only one I might apply it to would be a 1/48 helicopter canopy. But yeah I've only ever brush applied the Pledge and so far the new one doesn't seem to like it much at all :(

 

Gaz

First off , Klear/Mission acrylic/Alclad aqua et al dont need ammonia to clean them out of an airbrush , 99.9% IPA will do the job fine after a good rinse and spray through with hot water and detergent. As my brushes are on the expensive side,  5 minutes in an ultrasonic cleaner with detergent/water guarantees no nasties left behind, that and the amount of neat cellulose thinner/gun cleaner going through them  regularly will shift anything...

 

RE the brush painting, as I said I don't do any apart from detail touch ups ( and 1/72 pilots of late!) but would add you're never really going to come close to airbrushing using a brush unless you're @PlaStix who may be the person to answer your brushed gloss coat issues. 

 

I just jiggled both my old and new bottles and TBH their viscosity is about the same to my mk1 eyeball but thats hardly scientific so when I'm done Alclad  coating my various paid build this afternoon, I'll try my various  acrylic flow improvers/retarders (which is what the glycerine does when airbrushing) with new Pledge and post some results tomorrow, I'm hoping you've just got a duff bottle that they've left the retarder out of.

 

A

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm using paintbrush to apply it to either small surfaces or mules to try something and don't want to clean airbrush and I haven't run into such issues. I am also dipping anything clear as well as sometimes spraying it over nmf and haven't had any issues as well. I usually do not touch the model for 8-12 hours after applying it. However, I wonder if this stuff could degrade if frozen and if it was frozen while shipped to you. Also I wonder if you would be able to achieve consistent finish if you would give it a shake before applying.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/22/2019 at 2:53 PM, speedy said:

See now I got told to use Pledge floor care finish, although I haven’t purchased any yet.

 

Steve.

Big deal, I got told Jesus saves but no-one would tell me the interest rate he was getting...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, azureglo said:

Big deal, I got told Jesus saves but no-one would tell me the interest rate he was getting...

 

I know I'm going to burn for this, but what the Hell!

 

a88b086b-1789-48da-9404-4b2c8d9113cd.jpg

 

 

Chris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Gaz

 

My first pass as promised: did panel on left with some added liquitex retarder/flow improver ( as I know its got glycerin in it and isn't just weak detergent) and on the right, straight from the bottle

 

47923571112_211cd40050_b.jpg

 

Notwithstanding the sandpaper surface of my mule, it seems to work fine with no brush marks. The liquitex just took a little longer to dry (2 hours instead of 1 hour). Nowhere near as glossy as my usual Mr colour UV cut gloss but if the paint surface was smooth, easily good enough to decal on and about the same as Alclad Aqua.

 

Here's what I used , no voodoo even the brush is an old Humbrol " sable" that i normally use for dusting. I would venture you have a slightly duff bottle. I would persevere and get some of the liquitex and start at a ratio of 1:20 neat and its should start behaving like this.  Hope thats bit more useful than the usual "  I use it everyday then wash my cat  in it afterwards and it works brilliant, see." type of reply with no evidence. 

 

The comment about it being frozen is a red herring, that was to do with with some internet hype last year when Badger found deliveries of Stynylres left on people's doorstep in the US blizzards ended up turning to sludge and offered replacements. Hence according to internet wisdom ,all modelling products now are ultra sensitive to cold and everyone is living in Antarctic conditions with our parcels turning into icicles on our glacier covered doorsteps...🤣

 

.In truth apart from the nicer smell this behaves exactly the same as the 10 year old bottles of Klear I occasionally shove on eBay for a king's ransom ( last one sold for £63!!)

 

47923573342_21c8ebc6f6_b.jpg

 

Cheers

 

Anil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/23/2019 at 1:25 PM, Doom3r said:

I'm using paintbrush to apply it to either small surfaces or mules to try something and don't want to clean airbrush and I haven't run into such issues. I am also dipping anything clear as well as sometimes spraying it over nmf and haven't had any issues as well. I usually do not touch the model for 8-12 hours after applying it. However, I wonder if this stuff could degrade if frozen and if it was frozen while shipped to you. Also I wonder if you would be able to achieve consistent finish if you would give it a shake before applying.

You know it did actually occur to me later on about giving the stuff a shake. I think I overlooked it at the time because it would've come firing out of the now permanently open lid ><

 

9 hours ago, azureglo said:

Hey Gaz

 

My first pass as promised: did panel on left with some added liquitex retarder/flow improver ( as I know its got glycerin in it and isn't just weak detergent) and on the right, straight from the bottle

 

47923571112_211cd40050_b.jpg

 

Notwithstanding the sandpaper surface of my mule, it seems to work fine with no brush marks. The liquitex just took a little longer to dry (2 hours instead of 1 hour). Nowhere near as glossy as my usual Mr colour UV cut gloss but if the paint surface was smooth, easily good enough to decal on and about the same as Alclad Aqua.

 

Here's what I used , no voodoo even the brush is an old Humbrol " sable" that i normally use for dusting. I would venture you have a slightly duff bottle. I would persevere and get some of the liquitex and start at a ratio of 1:20 neat and its should start behaving like this.  Hope thats bit more useful than the usual "  I use it everyday then wash my cat  in it afterwards and it works brilliant, see." type of reply with no evidence. 

 

The comment about it being frozen is a red herring, that was to do with with some internet hype last year when Badger found deliveries of Stynylres left on people's doorstep in the US blizzards ended up turning to sludge and offered replacements. Hence according to internet wisdom ,all modelling products now are ultra sensitive to cold and everyone is living in Antarctic conditions with our parcels turning into icicles on our glacier covered doorsteps...🤣

 

.In truth apart from the nicer smell this behaves exactly the same as the 10 year old bottles of Klear I occasionally shove on eBay for a king's ransom ( last one sold for £63!!)

 

47923573342_21c8ebc6f6_b.jpg

 

Cheers

 

Anil

Gah, would be just my luck if I have a bad batch :(

 

Thanks for the pointers, though.

 

Gaz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Been trying to master Klear also recently. I did two trials one airbrushed neat and one brushed on with an old sable brush. To be honest I was reasonably pleased and both looked almost identical. The surface finish is a little grainy on both but not too bad. After reading the above I’m going to have another go with IPA and glycerine which I assume is 5% of the Klear and IPA combined and added to the mixture. There’s a Boots chemist in York so they should sell it I hope.

 

Keep the advice flowing very helpful.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, delticfan said:

Been trying to master Klear also recently. I did two trials one airbrushed neat and one brushed on with an old sable brush. To be honest I was reasonably pleased and both looked almost identical. The surface finish is a little grainy on both but not too bad. After reading the above I’m going to have another go with IPA and glycerine which I assume is 5% of the Klear and IPA combined and added to the mixture. There’s a Boots chemist in York so they should sell it I hope.

 

Keep the advice flowing very helpful.

The ratios are purely trial and error. I would always err on as little IPA as possible to start if using a brush-if your paint is acrylic the IPA will melt that effortlessly. My initial mix was for airbrush, If I was brushing, 80 Pledge:15 IPA 5 Glycerin.  If your paint coats are acrylic (eg,Tamiya X/XF) then minimise your brush strokes, it should self level when you get the proportions right. The more you work the IPA in the more the colour coats will start to dissolve.

 

BTW ebay has this stuff for buttons including delivery

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vegetable-Glycerine-Glycerol-USP-Food-Cosmetic-Grade-Kosher-5-Sizes/121212171525?hash=item1c38cef505:m:miQhMvSRjhclCbYCbPkvHgw

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IPA-99-9-1-LITRE-Lab-Grade-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Isopropanol-1L/141522873981?epid=27031978691&hash=item20f36bae7d:g:ACEAAOSwzrxUsbES

 

As will all things, practice on a mule with the exact same primer and paint. There a few folk here who are fond of blasting a nearly complete model with a never before used varnish or chucking an unknown thinner into a full pot of never before used paint etc. Same with mixing, don't chuck all the voodoo chemistry into a full bottle of Klear/Pledge...

 

Final word, reserve the Pledge/Klear for canopies and decalling,  shove a  0.4mm needle in your airbrush , get you some Mr Color super UV cut gloss, Mr leveling thinner an extractor and a respirator then  glass like finishes like this are yours, effortlessly:

 

shiny.jpg&key=86dc05aa0c0ec2c2ea4fff5027

 

 

 

Anil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, delticfan said:

Been trying to master Klear also recently. I did two trials one airbrushed neat and one brushed on with an old sable brush. To be honest I was reasonably pleased and both looked almost identical. The surface finish is a little grainy on both but not too bad. After reading the above I’m going to have another go with IPA and glycerine which I assume is 5% of the Klear and IPA combined and added to the mixture. There’s a Boots chemist in York so they should sell it I hope.

 

Keep the advice flowing very helpful.

If I thin Future I thin it about a 30% of 90% IPA. However I do not apply Future (thinned or not) on top of the acrylic paints (exception: dipping tinted clear parts or canopies with painted explosive wire (Harrier, Hawk) in a Future straight off the bottle). Usually I apply it over NMF or in between the weathering layers (of course if you haven't been weathering with acrylic paints; if it is weathered with acrylic paints or on top of acrylic paints then I do not thin it). If I apply it with paintbrush you might see the brushstrokes initially, just make sure it is applied everywhere and do not touch the model for 8-24 hours. I never had a case when it wouldn't self level. If I apply it via airbrush I use 0.35 or 0.5 nozzle using quite low pressure (7-15 psi) and from a distance of couple inches. Again, once applied it might look a bit like orange peel but if you give it time it would level itself. One tip on how do I deal with the time: I apply Future as a last step for the day for the model (usually before getting to other things before going to bed, then wake up in the morning, go to work, come back after 6pm and the model usually is ready for the next steps).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Doom3r said:

If I thin Future I thin it about a 30% of 90% IPA. However I do not apply Future (thinned or not) on top of the acrylic paints (exception: dipping tinted clear parts or canopies with painted explosive wire (Harrier, Hawk) in a Future straight off the bottle). Usually I apply it over NMF or in between the weathering layers (of course if you haven't been weathering with acrylic paints; if it is weathered with acrylic paints or on top of acrylic paints then I do not thin it). If I apply it with paintbrush you might see the brushstrokes initially, just make sure it is applied everywhere and do not touch the model for 8-24 hours. I never had a case when it wouldn't self level. If I apply it via airbrush I use 0.35 or 0.5 nozzle using quite low pressure (7-15 psi) and from a distance of couple inches. Again, once applied it might look a bit like orange peel but if you give it time it would level itself. One tip on how do I deal with the time: I apply Future as a last step for the day for the model (usually before getting to other things before going to bed, then wake up in the morning, go to work, come back after 6pm and the model usually is ready for the next steps).

Any chance of  pictures to show this and equipment you're using?...A little evidence goes a  long way. I never believe any internet content unless I can see the evidence of the results and the actual tools /materials in the possession of the person giving said advice. 

 

Anil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll be back home after Memorial Day and would try to snap few pictures of the mentioned earlier Mustang test build.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...