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Steve Noble
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My personal opinion is I don't like it as a gloss/top coat. I know people use it and they get results, but for me it's got it's uses, but as a dedicated gloss coat prior to decalling? No way!! I'd use a dedicated clear coat designed for that purpose, not some product for coating floors. It's all down to personal choice and for the people who like it then I say no problem to that. It's just not for me I'm afraid. I put a lot of effort into my builds and use decent paints and clears so that all my hard work does not go to waste..
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Well I could understand that as Tamiya will thin with lacquer thinner, alcohol and water. Although I never thin them with plain water..
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I initially thought they were a similar product to Mr Color? But I know that Mr Color would not thin with water. Crikey, they must be some kind of Frankenstein paint or something!!
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Just had another read about Real Colours on their website and it says they can be thinned with their own dedicated thinner, lacquer thinner, alcohol and water!! I'm very confused as to what these paints are? Never seen a lacquer paints that can be thinned with water? Very odd..
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You must, in my opinion, have a decent set up, extractor fan, mask etc to spray the stronger paints such as lacquer and automotive acrylics like Zero paints and Gravity Colour. I wouldn't even consider using them without an extractor, I would imagine the fumes would build up very quickly and soon make you feel quite dizzy.. I've no experience of working with the Real Colours paint in question, although when I read up on them they appeared to be lacquer based type..
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Much, much stronger smell. Very chemically based and heavy vapours. Quite unpleasant if breathed in...
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Sometimes you can just apply another coat whilst it's still wet and it will reactivate the previous layer. However if it's proper dried already then yes, wet flat the "bloom" out and reapply the clear coat, making sure to spray in conditions that will eliminate any more bloom forming..
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Sadly not. It's a combination of two things. Excess moisture, and damp or cold conditions. The way to combat it is to warm the can in a bowl of warm water before spraying, spray in warmer conditions and use a hairdryer to gently warm the surface before or after spraying. Basically just keep everything warm and it won't happen. I've had this numerous times but only with Halfords paints and clear coats. They are prone to it. The technical term is: "blooming" "A milky white haze or mist formed on the surface of the paint film. Cause. Moisture condensing on, and being trapped in the wet film. This may be due to: a) Spraying during cold, wet or humid weather"
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Actually you're probably not. If you want to use an inferior item instead of something designed for purpose that costs 79p for a 10 pack, then go figure. Oh, they don't rust either...
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I dont think you'll beat a ready made unit. I bought a Graphicair A300sd many years ago and have never regretted the purchase...
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You'll defo need a gloss coat on Tamiya X-11, it's dry and as rough as old boots. In fact I'm not sure the decals would adhere very well to it at all without one..
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All depends on the type and brand of the clear coat? To answer your second question, yes, wet sanding will remove any dust or dirt particles within the clear coat. You'll just need to use a rubbing compound to restore the gloss that you'll lose when you wet sand the surface..
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Trigger Grip Airbrush for Primer/Varnish Coat
Steve Noble replied to Remodel_Remake's topic in Airbrushes
I only ever use aerosol cans to prime stuff, mainly Tamiya. I just never can master applying primer with an airbrush. It always goes on dry and has a sort of cobwebs effect to it.. -
Man, those two photos took me right back to my first ever Tamiya bike kit, the VFR750 RC30!! I used Tamiya X paints for the main body and when I masked out for the second colour that is what I got. Tape marks and lots of 'em. I didn't know what I was doing wrong until I realised it was simply the paints I was using...
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Dude, I echo your comments!! That's the reason I tried to sway the original poster, wrongly or rightly towards the "better" paints, that are in my opinion and yours too it seems, much more suitable for trouble free modelling. I'm probably like you and have tried almost all types of paints and made many mistakes along the way, learning the hard way sometimes as to what works and what doesn't. Using the paints you mentioned above does, in my opinion take the hassle out of painting and just makes it easier and less trouble means a better finish, a better model. Win, win all round P.S That Suzuki is stunning, what a finish!!
