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Steve Noble

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About Steve Noble

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    Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 11/13/1972

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    Barnsley, UK

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  1. Are we talking about the same product? I'm thinking it's the Tamiya primer in an aerosol? Or are you thinking of the brushable stuff in a glass jar maybe?
  2. You are correct. Tamiya surface primer is a lacquer based product. It must be thinned with lacquer thinner such as Tamiya's own or Mr Color levelling thinner etc. It won't thin with X20 as that is an enamel thinner, or X20a as that is an acrylic thinner for the X and XF range of Tamiya acrylics.
  3. Won't work, X20 is enamel thinner. X20A is acrylic thinner, that won't work either, must be lacquer thinner..
  4. Steve Noble

    Total mess

    Firstly you should state exactly what paint you used for both the undercoat and what the exact Tamiya aerosol was. If people know the paint type it's easier to tell you the correct way to strip it. I'm assuming the Tamiya aerosol was TS spray? If so isopropyl alcohol will remove it. Soak in a tub with a lid over night and scrub off the next morning with a toothbrush. What was the undercoat used? Brand, type of paint etc.?? If I know that info I can tell you how to strip it and what to use instead so you don't get any bad reactions again from differing paint types..
  5. 600 is too harsh for primer. Use 1000 at least, I use 1200 and 1500 also. Mixing paints is a bad idea. I tend to use paints that are compatible with each other (same brand usually) unless I know that they will work together..
  6. If mine ever needed replacing, I would buy another Silair in a heartbeat. The only thing I would opt for now is one with auto stop/start. Mine doesn't have that feature but it would be a plus point was I buying one today..
  7. Well I have the Shunko decals, but after your words of warning I feel I must be careful with them. I intended to spray the main colours anyway, so I may be ok...
  8. It looks fabulous, great job!!! I sold nearly all of my many bike kits off last year. But I kept this one back. Just couldn't bear to part with it. I hope I can build it to this same high standard..
  9. 2nd the Procon Boy listed above. Very nice, quality airbrush which is easy to use and easy to clean. Depends what type of models you make? But you really don't need a double action brush for painting larger areas with colour..
  10. I've used a Silair 15e for almost 30 years. Made by Werther in Italy, it's been an ultra reliable workhorse and never let me down, ever. It's also practically silent at just 30db noise level. The air that comes from the airbrush is actually louder than the compressor itself. I've sprayed at 3am with people asleep in the next room with no problems..
  11. That bottom one looks a bit like a Sparmax/Iwata type???
  12. Mixing pots, preferably metal, wooden paint stirrers (McDonald's coffee stirrers are perfect) Some small brushes to clean the airbrush tip would be beneficial too. Pipettes for the thinners.
  13. Don't assume that an airbrush will give you a nicer/better finish than a spray can. An airbrush is just another way of laying paint onto a model. If used incorrectly, the finish could be worse than when using a spray can. I think from your post that it seems you build car models? You really don't need a fancy airbrush coating lots of pounds. A simple single or double action with a 0.4/0.5mm tip is perfect to paint cars. It will lay down a nice, even, wet coat of paint, just what you need for painting larger areas. Plenty of brushes under £50 to suit your needs. From personal experience I would spend more on the compressor and buy a nice one at the start. Something that will last and put out enough air to be able to spray properly for as long as you need, as well as being quiet would be ideal. Also a tank would be preferable if your budget would allow for that..
  14. Not 100% sure but will computer fans be big enough/powerful enough to drag out the fumes? The fan in my Graphic-air A300sd is a lot bigger than a computer fan..
  15. There's no paint or water soluble liquid that I know of that you can spray in and wash off later. Several ways to do this have been posted already. In my opinion, just mask the glazing with tape and masking fluid, spray the framing, then remove the tape and masking fluid to leave the painted framing. That's the way I would do it. I think you're making this whole process over complicated and over thinking it. If it's an Avro Anson that you're building, it's not that complicated a masking job. Just basic tape and masking fluid required...
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