Steve Noble

Many thanks Mike, most appreciated!!

Hi guys, I could be missing the obvious. Someone has tried to send me a pm but has been told that they can't. I've searched everywhere and cannot find anything on my account or home page relating to pm? Can anyone shed any light on this. Does it need to be set up specially?

Looks amazing, been a pleasure to follow your build!! You've done something that I think has made a massive difference to the look and that's the painting of the door window frames in body colour (blue) I've seen many built and they left them clear, which doesn't look correct.

I'm using Mr Color and Tamiya LP paints on my last model and I really liked the way they sprayed..

It has been known for Tamiya to mimic what they do in R/C in 1/24th. It would be nice to have a Tamiya Escort Mk2, but I'm not confident...

Get one with a tank and auto stop/start. It's the best money you'll spend

Looking good Gary, i bought the Rothmans version, looking like I'll have to have this one as well!! Can't understand why they did the tyres like that, looks a bit odd. I've bought some tarmac rims from aftermarket to replace the kit rims. I'll have to check what they're like and see if they are thicker at the rear...

You can use any hardener if you're in a pinch, I've used other brands in the past. I believe Zero paints are Lechler auto paint rebranded. Lately I've switched to using Mr Colour GX100 clear in the little glass jars and also Gunze Premium aqueous clear, again in the glass jars. The safety concerns of using 2k finally made me switch.

Probably too thick a layer. Also the enamel primer is a bad idea. The Zero paint is quite hot paint and will probably react with the enamel primer. Tamiya primer is usually good though.

I sometimes cut them out and then brush another coat of the Microscale product, just to be sure they are well sealed at the edges, before I dip them in the water. It's a bit belt and braces, but...

I'm going to have to try this in the future, thanks for that!!

Does it still go through the printer with no issues? Being two times the thickness and what tape do you use? I've never thought to do that, but it's genius and would save a lot of wasted decal paper when I'm only printing a few decals and not a full sheet..

Looks great Gary!! Really enjoyed watching it come together. I think it's given you a few problems along the way for sure, but the end result will be worth it

I assume you're using an inkjet printer to print the decals? If you are using a laser printer no sealing/varnish coat is required. You can use them straight off of the printer. With inkjet though it is essential to seal them. I always use the aforementioned Microscale liquid decal film, brushed on with a large flat brush. It dries very quickly and works very well. Remember when you cut the decals out not to go too close, because if you break the seal, the inks will bleed out when placed in the water.