Steve Noble

But Tamiya X-22 is not a lacquer paint, it's alcohol based acrylic. I think people generally hear acrylic and think water based. There's alcohol based acrylics which Tamiya and Gunze Aqueous fall into that category. Then there's lacquer paints of which Tamiya LP and Mr Color are..

Take your points onboard, however, have to disagree about Tamiya X-22 being a lacquer in any shape or form. Agree it can be thinned with lacquer thinner though. The new Tamiya LP range are the lacquer based paints. If you smell them you can clearly smell the difference. Much more noxious than the acrylics. The X range may not be pure water based, but they're definitely not lacquers. If anything, I'd say they were alcohol type acrylics..

The question was specifically about Tamiya X-22 gloss clear and applying an enamel wash over it. Enamel wash will destroy X-22 clear and lift it, causing it to bubble up and peel off. Future is a different question, but that's not an acrylic clear. It's a coating for floors that some people use as a coating for models. The original poster asked specifically about Tamiya X-22 gloss, not future, so my original answer still is valid. Don't put enamel based wash over it, or you won't have a gloss coat on your model for long...

Tamiya X-22 is acrylic Gloss clear, not thinners. X-22a is acrylic thinners, not lacquer thinner. None of the X series jar paints are lacquer/solvent based, they are acrylic based..

You could use Microscale Liquid Decal Film. Simply apply over the decals with a large flat brush and allow to dry. A few coats will seal the decals ready for use. Then simply cut out and apply as normal..

On the contrary. It is a little expensive, but it's so smooth and very good quality. All the Mr Surfacer's are worth every penny

Mr Surfacer is just a posh word for primer

Tamiya X-22 is not lacquer, it's acrylic. The problem is that the panel liner is enamel based and it will eat through the acrylic. You need a water/acrylic based panel liner which will be much kinder on the underlying acrylic paint..

Superb detail, looks stunning, well done on a great build!!

I'm trying to find a clear that's easy and safe to use over decals, but not 2K, as I want to avoid using that from now on. Most lacquer clears I try destroy the decals and melt them. Only thing I've used that seems to work is Mr Top Coat. But it obviously doesn't have the big shine that 2K clear has. I wish someone could produce a non poisonous 2K clear or a hobby clear with the main benefit that it doesn't melt the decals, but gives that easy finish aspect of 2K without the health issues involved...

You don't need to apply a big wet shiny coat of clear before the decals. Just a quick, thin once over is plenty enough to seal the surface before the decal application. I find although the base coat is relatively smooth, a quick clear does make decal application better, as the decals can slide around on the surface easier than on the base coat alone. I also find that sometimes, although not always, decal solvents can mark the base coat and it's also susceptible to finger prints, dirt etc. That's why I always use a thin clear coat to seal and protect the surface first. It takes only a few minutes to apply but has so many benefits..

"the convenience of instant putty from a tube is too good to be true" It exists. Get some Impa Finissage. It's the best stuff I've ever used. Squeeze out of the tube, apply with a square of thin plasticard, leave to dry, then sand with wet and dry or a sanding stick. Works everytime with no fuss. £4 for a big tube. You'll never use Milliput again...

Rub out the damaged area with fine wet and dry. Mask around the damage up to a panel line, repaint the damaged area, remove the masking and job done..

Ahh, I see. I wonder if you could get an actual Simair spare part though? I'd definitely have look before spending money on something new. The problem is that the compressor you have sounds like a good one. If you're used to a quality one I think one of those cheap chinese ones will be a let down..

I'd look at repairing the tank, or better still get a new tank. It doesn't have to be the same brand exact replacement tank. I'm sure you can modify the compressor and make a generic tank fit...