Steve Noble

If it's real automotive acrylic I doubt Mr Muscle will touch it. It's not the same acrylic as model acrylic...

Which one is that? Never seen bottled Tamiya primer?

Place the can in a bowl of warm water for 5-10 mins before spraying. It helps by warming the paint inside the can and creates a better, more even pressure, allowing the paint to atomise more evenly..

The best primer I've found for airbrushing is Tamiya primer in the aerosol can, used from the aerosol can!! I don't go through the hassle of decanting it when I can get an excellent finish straight from the can, oh and no need to clean out your airbrush after use as you never used it in the first place.. Seriously, I've never had any luck airbrushing primer so I just spray it from the can. Less fuss, less cleaning and a better finish.

A mist coat is just a light dusting from further away than usual and maybe quicker speed than normal..

I used Tamiya airbrush HG Wide 0.5..

I think if you're getting this frosting/spotting then something is wrong with either the paint, the technique or the thinning/pressure etc. All the clear colours I've ever used sprayed perfectly, that's Tamiya, Mr Color and Alclad. Never had any frosting or spotting or such..

The Alclad sprays just like any type of clear colours. I never had any so called frosting? Just fill the airbrush with the clear colour and spray the parts. In the case of the motorcycle screen I applied two or three lighter coats to get the smoked colour to the depth I wanted, and then one final wet coat to finish. No problems at all.

No special prep. Just cleaned the parts with soapy water, dried them and straight Alclad from the bottle, no need to thin. Very light coats at 15 psi. Build up the colour slowly. Had to mix red and yellow to get orange for the indicator lenses..

You can spray from the can, it works well. Airbrushing it gives a bit more control and you seem to use less of it. Light coats are best and build up the layers slowly. The more light coats you apply the better shine you get. One thing, it doesn't have that ultra treacle like shine of 2k clear, but a more realistic shine level, like on the real car I think. I usually apply 3-4 light coats, then allow to dry before applying one wetter final finish coat. It can be sanded and polished when dry for a perfect finish.

It's only available in spray aerosol can. But I decant it and thin it with a small amount of Gunze aqueous thinner and spray via airbrush. It is very kind on decals, never had a bad reaction ever.. https://www.hiroboy.com/Mr_Topcoat_Gloss_86ml--product--8159.html

Sure. Windscreen on this Tamiya Hayabusa was done with Alclad smoke, also the front indicator lenses in orange..

Tamiya TS-13!!!! Oh no!!! That stuff is lethal. I used it once many years ago on a Tamiya 1/12 Ferrari F190. Luckily I only applied it onto the nosecone. It melted the decals just like you have shown here. I vowed to never use it again and I haven't. I now use Mr Top Coat or occasionally Zero 2k, but I'm cutting back the use of 2k and looking for alternatives. You can buy replacement decals on Spotmodel I believe..

I don't think you'll get any glue that will give you a smooth and perfect, paint ready finish. Glue is just the start of the process. Sanding and filling will smooth and level the surface ready for paint, not glue alone..

Yes, Alclad are lacquer based. I just use regular cellulose type thinner to clean the airbrush after use. I've never used the AK paints, so I'm not sure if their thinner would clean Alclad..