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Steve Noble

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Everything posted by Steve Noble

  1. Steve Noble

    Is Mr hobby colour waterproof?

    You don't need to seal them with any clear coat. If you're using gloss black Mr Color it is tough as old boots on it's own without clear..
  2. Steve Noble

    Best airbrush & compressor for £200

    It's true. That brush I recommended is a good buy. Everyone recommends Iwata and Harder and Steenbeck, but they are expensive. I've got an Iwata. The Revolution CR and I find it uncomfortable to hold and use. There's nothing I can't do with my little Gunze brush on car and bike models. You don't need a £100 airbrush that sprays mm thick pencil lines for auto modelling. I think it's better to have a decent air source (compressor) I'd always put my money into the compressor, but that said the Gunze brush is not a compromise, it's just a damn good, quality brush..
  3. Steve Noble

    Best airbrush & compressor for £200

    Personally I'd spend more on a decent compressor and less on the airbrush. You don't need something that sprays fine lines for car modelling. No need to buy a cheapo Chinese knock off brush either. For around £40 you can buy a Gunze Procon Boy 0.4mm which will spray car body parts beautifully. I bought one a few years ago and it really is a great brush and has an excellent build quality at any price point. https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10062174
  4. I had one in 2000, a 1999 model in black and red. I only kept it for just over two years, but it was the best bike I ever owned. I would love to find it and buy it back, not sure where it is but it hasn't been taxed or mot'd since 2007. If anyone ever sees W814MWB let me know
  5. Very nice work and I really like the look in these colours. Superb!!
  6. Steve Noble

    Chinese knock off airbrushes

    I've never used Harder and Steenbeck so won't comment on those. But I have used Badger (150 & 200) and really didn't get on well with either. I've got one Iwata the Revolution CR, which is a good brush but nothing special in my opinion and makes my hand ache after use, as I find it uncomfortable to hold. The best brushes I've used by far are the Tamiya HG wide trigger/pistol grip brush and my GSI Creos Procon Boy 0.4mm, they are just so reliable and comfortable in use. No-one ever seems to take notice of anything but Iwata brushes. But there are alternatives out there that are just as good if not better. I believe Tamiya brushes are actually made by Iwata..
  7. Steve Noble

    I need help

    If it's real automotive acrylic I doubt Mr Muscle will touch it. It's not the same acrylic as model acrylic...
  8. Steve Noble

    Primers with airbrush

    Which one is that? Never seen bottled Tamiya primer?
  9. Steve Noble

    Primers with airbrush

    Place the can in a bowl of warm water for 5-10 mins before spraying. It helps by warming the paint inside the can and creates a better, more even pressure, allowing the paint to atomise more evenly..
  10. Steve Noble

    Primers with airbrush

    The best primer I've found for airbrushing is Tamiya primer in the aerosol can, used from the aerosol can!! I don't go through the hassle of decanting it when I can get an excellent finish straight from the can, oh and no need to clean out your airbrush after use as you never used it in the first place.. Seriously, I've never had any luck airbrushing primer so I just spray it from the can. Less fuss, less cleaning and a better finish.
  11. Steve Noble

    Clear lacquer advice

    A mist coat is just a light dusting from further away than usual and maybe quicker speed than normal..
  12. Steve Noble

    Tinting Clear Parts

    I used Tamiya airbrush HG Wide 0.5..
  13. Steve Noble

    Tinting Clear Parts

    I think if you're getting this frosting/spotting then something is wrong with either the paint, the technique or the thinning/pressure etc. All the clear colours I've ever used sprayed perfectly, that's Tamiya, Mr Color and Alclad. Never had any frosting or spotting or such..
  14. Steve Noble

    Tinting Clear Parts

    The Alclad sprays just like any type of clear colours. I never had any so called frosting? Just fill the airbrush with the clear colour and spray the parts. In the case of the motorcycle screen I applied two or three lighter coats to get the smoked colour to the depth I wanted, and then one final wet coat to finish. No problems at all.
  15. Steve Noble

    Tinting Clear Parts

    No special prep. Just cleaned the parts with soapy water, dried them and straight Alclad from the bottle, no need to thin. Very light coats at 15 psi. Build up the colour slowly. Had to mix red and yellow to get orange for the indicator lenses..
  16. Steve Noble

    Aoshima Toyota Celica TC Turbo

    You can spray from the can, it works well. Airbrushing it gives a bit more control and you seem to use less of it. Light coats are best and build up the layers slowly. The more light coats you apply the better shine you get. One thing, it doesn't have that ultra treacle like shine of 2k clear, but a more realistic shine level, like on the real car I think. I usually apply 3-4 light coats, then allow to dry before applying one wetter final finish coat. It can be sanded and polished when dry for a perfect finish.
  17. Steve Noble

    Aoshima Toyota Celica TC Turbo

    It's only available in spray aerosol can. But I decant it and thin it with a small amount of Gunze aqueous thinner and spray via airbrush. It is very kind on decals, never had a bad reaction ever.. https://www.hiroboy.com/Mr_Topcoat_Gloss_86ml--product--8159.html
  18. Steve Noble

    Tinting Clear Parts

    Sure. Windscreen on this Tamiya Hayabusa was done with Alclad smoke, also the front indicator lenses in orange..
  19. Steve Noble

    Aoshima Toyota Celica TC Turbo

    Tamiya TS-13!!!! Oh no!!! That stuff is lethal. I used it once many years ago on a Tamiya 1/12 Ferrari F190. Luckily I only applied it onto the nosecone. It melted the decals just like you have shown here. I vowed to never use it again and I haven't. I now use Mr Top Coat or occasionally Zero 2k, but I'm cutting back the use of 2k and looking for alternatives. You can buy replacement decals on Spotmodel I believe..
  20. I don't think you'll get any glue that will give you a smooth and perfect, paint ready finish. Glue is just the start of the process. Sanding and filling will smooth and level the surface ready for paint, not glue alone..
  21. Steve Noble

    Tinting Clear Parts

    Yes, Alclad are lacquer based. I just use regular cellulose type thinner to clean the airbrush after use. I've never used the AK paints, so I'm not sure if their thinner would clean Alclad..
  22. Steve Noble

    Tinting Clear Parts

    Alclad clear colours airbrush perfectly with no frosting..
  23. Steve Noble

    Humbrol 149 Matt Dark Green Paint - old v new comparison.

    The green looks a tiny bit darker, more so with the flash. But not a great deal of difference. I'd be happy with either shade to be honest..
  24. Steve Noble

    Mr Hobby Hobby Colour - too thin

    If you can afford one invest in a spray extractor. Your work environment will be odour free and ever so pleasant to work in. No nasty smells and you can use whatever paints you like!! I bought my GraphicAir A300sd many years ago and it really was the best investment I ever made..
  25. Thanks, appreciate your comment. I really don't know why the Fujimi kit gets such a bad press. Sure, maybe it's not perfect and could use a few tweaks. But for me I was more than happy with the look, sit and general fit of parts and stuff..
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