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Steve Noble

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Everything posted by Steve Noble

  1. Not 100% sure but will computer fans be big enough/powerful enough to drag out the fumes? The fan in my Graphic-air A300sd is a lot bigger than a computer fan..
  2. There's no paint or water soluble liquid that I know of that you can spray in and wash off later. Several ways to do this have been posted already. In my opinion, just mask the glazing with tape and masking fluid, spray the framing, then remove the tape and masking fluid to leave the painted framing. That's the way I would do it. I think you're making this whole process over complicated and over thinking it. If it's an Avro Anson that you're building, it's not that complicated a masking job. Just basic tape and masking fluid required...
  3. It depends what you're using it for? I tended to use it mainly for 1/24th rally cars and it worked very nicely as a gloss white that was decal ready. Also with it being in large cans it was pretty good value for money as I got quite a few cars painted from one can..
  4. They sell it in aerosol. I think it's originally intended for spraying washing machines, fridges, cookers etc, the exterior, hence the appliance white title. It's not enamel, it's a form of acrylic, but not like a hobby acrylic ie. water based type product. It's more of an auto acrylic, so a tougher finish than hobby acrylic. The smell is also a lot stronger than hobby paint. However, it's not as tough as something like Zero paints. It dries quickly, but to dry properly takes longer. I find maybe a minimum 1 week drying time is best before handling and polishing. It does remain softish for quite a while and can mark with fingerprints and general handling. I also found that unless the primer coats are properly dry when you apply the Halfords paints, they can crack weeks, even months down the line. Generally I've stopped using them and use Zero, Mr Color, Tamiya TS or Tamiya LP instead...
  5. I understand the question now. You're wanting to mask the framing with tape, spray some paint to protect the glazing, remove the tape from the framing, spray the framing with paint, then wash off the paint on the glazing to leave the framing only painted. Seems a very long winded process to paint the framing. You could use decal sheet and spray that the correct colour, then cut into strips of the correct width and apply to the framing, or just mask the whole canopy with wide tape and trim the framing, leaving the glazing masked, then spray the framing...
  6. I don't fully understand the question? Maybe post a picture of what you're trying to paint and I think that would help me to give a more informed answer..
  7. Depends on the type of paints you use. Some paints are not good for brushing, others are excellent and vice versa...
  8. Sometimes when time is at a premium in your life it's just easier to go with the ready made one. It's not really giving up, just giving yourself a helping hand
  9. Wondered if you'd seen this at Spotmodel? Not the cheapest item but wow, it certainly looks good!! https://www.spotmodel.com/product_info.php?products_id=52890&language=en
  10. Really a shame that, because a spray booth is a very worthwhile purchase. It makes your whole working environment much more pleasant and allows the use of the more smelly paints without the smell. Convince your missus that it's a good bit of health and safety kit, she wouldn't want you to breathe in those nasty paint fumes, would she now?
  11. Graphicair A300sd is the one I have. Best bit of kit I ever bought. https://www.graphicsdirect.co.uk/products/a300s-d-graphicair-fume-master
  12. I think some parts are interchangeable between Iwata and GSI...
  13. Are you using any primer before the Vallejo paints? Never had them rub off before, unless I've handled them really excessively..
  14. The nozzle on mine is, I believe, the screw in type. The brush is very easy to clean. I very rarely have to strip it down to clean it, just flush through with cleaning agent and that's it.. Also, I'm not knocking Iwata, just the one that I had I found uncomfortable to use (Revolution CR) it sprayed well, I can't fault the way it sprayed..
  15. Can't really help with your choice but I can say that I switched from a Badger brush many years ago and have Iwata, Tamiya and Mr Hobby brushes now. I can honestly say that I rarely use the Iwata. I find it uncomfortable to hold and it makes my hand ache. The Tamiya is a pistol grip trigger type and is an excellent workhorse and very comfortable and super reliable, I use it a lot. But my favourite by far is the Mr Hobby Procon Boy brush. So easy to use, clean and both comfortable and reliable. One thing I would say is that I was incredibly disappointed with the Iwata as I had always heard great things about them, but they didn't live up to my expectations at all. But I can say I never regretted ditching the Badger for a second...
  16. You will waste some paint using spray cans, that's inevitable. Obviously the airbrush sprays finer and offers more control, so more paint ends up on the model and less is wasted. I only use cans for primer as I've never found an airbrush ready primer that sprays the way I like it to, so I use Tamiya primer from a can and just use the airbrush for my colour and top coats. The thing is, a decent airbrush and compressor set up will last you years and you will soon recoup the money you spend on cans by using it. I guarantee that if you go rock bottom cheap you'll either give up on airbrushing altogether because of problems you encounter or you'll struggle to get the correct performance you desire. As I said in my earlier post, buy the best you can afford. If you can't afford something decent yet wait a little until you can. If you buy really cheap you'll probably look to upgrade sometime in the future. So you'll end up buying twice. My honest advice would be to save the money you'll spend on really cheap stuff and put it towards something better that will serve you well and last..
  17. It depends what type of models you build? I find that I can never get that fantastic shine from any acrylic/waterbased gloss clears and always end up with a dry patchy finish with a dull gloss. Only lacquer clears and paints have given me the shine that I wanted, or enamels, but they always take a long time to dry for me. As a result of this and as a car builder I use all lacquer, colours and clears for bodywork parts and acrylics for interiors, seats, engines etc. I don't think I could just use one type of paint for everything...
  18. Also would add that if I was to purchase another one now I would go for one that has an auto stop/start. The original one I purchased hasn't got that feature, but i would definitely buy one now with it, as it stops the motor running all the time so that it only turns on when needed..
  19. First option decal setter, second option trim away the excess silvered area and touch in with black as close as you can, third option new decals if available..
  20. I just place Tamiya tape onto the area to be masked and press it down with a wooden cocktail stick into all the corners. Then with a sharp pencil I mark the frame area, then remove the piece of tape and cut the "mask" with sharp decal scissors. Next I re-apply the mask I've cut back onto the canopy...
  21. I just dry brush after the wash has dried with the base colour. You can then control where the wash is darker or lighter as you prefer...
  22. Not necessarily. It all depends on the user. An experienced user can still achieve an excellent finish with a cheap airbrush, just as an inexperienced user can make a total hash job with a £300 airbrush. My personal thoughts are that at first a good air source is preferable to a mega expensive airbrush..
  23. You have either contaminants in your paint mix, or on the surface that you're painting. Personally, I would strip back to plastic, clean the surface thoroughly, use a primer, sand it back with fine wet and dry paper, used wet, then re-apply the gloss black with the correct Humbrol thinner..
  24. I think that if you're looking for the absolutely, cheapest set up you can buy, then you're probably going to be disappointed with it's performance. The thing with airbrushing is you're either doing it or not. Sure, you really don't need to spend several hundred pounds for a decent set up, but absolute bargain basement is never going to be that great. If I was to offer some advice it would be to get the best compressor you can afford within your budget. Cheap compressors rarely perform very well and they can be terribly noisy. For an airbrush I'd probably be inclined to spend anywhere from £30-£50 for something nice that will perform well and last. Just my thoughts..
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