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Everything posted by Doom3r

  1. Doom3r

    1/144 B52

    Yes, Minicraft did B-52D/E/F boxings (in both Vietnam war and SAC markings) which are nice, however I meant new releases (GWH & Academy)... Though after checking unboxing video on the Youtube of the GWH model it looks like a marginal upgrade from the Revell one and not a huge leap ahead from the Crown one. The biggest difference is that it has bomb bay, few bumps, pods, latest weapons and gunless tail. What really surprised me is that even they try to do full interior you'd better get crew into those seats that look even worse than Crown's. However it is a welcome addition and hopefully th
  2. Doom3r

    1/144 B52

    Do you know if currently somebody produces NB-52A conversion sets and how to get those (as well as decal sheets)? I am currently have latest repop of this in SAC markings that I would gladly convert to the balls three (since I already have early H built in using old Revell decal sheet "Dear Rocky...") Well, I was trying to be "realistic". However it would be really great if somebody would come up with those in 144 scale.
  3. Doom3r

    1/144 B52

    PS: It is really sad that all these manufacturers think about only latest and greatest H model (with the exception of Minicraft) instead of iconic high tail early model... Not even mentioning "B" model "balls 8" or "A" "balls 3" with X-15...
  4. Doom3r

    1/144 B52

    1/144 Revell B-52H(and G) is out of production ( https://www.scalemates.com/kits/revell-4584-b-52h-stratofortress--187428 ) and is quite nice model that represents late 80th-early 90th B-52H (and there was a G repack as well). It has nicely detailed wheel wells, vortex generators, rear gun and acceptable for 1/144 scale approximation for pilot's cabin and a modern for that time loadout of AGM-86. People who measured it against drawings say that it is a bit too narrow for the real B-52, however it does look good when is built. 1/144 Minicraft B-52 taking it's roots all the way in 1970 and
  5. I am afraid there is not going to be a lot of info on this bird. If I am understanding it right it was broken down and it's wing was used for Ye-155M prototype which was based on MiG-25P http://www.airwar.ru/enc/xplane/e155m.html . Since both used same engine and 710 is still alive you might get your answer for the engines from the walkarounds of 710.
  6. DC-10 did not survive b/c it had to compete with two engine airliners that were able to cross the ocean. Safety concern just sped up the things (lets not forget much better Tristar had even worse case). However 737MAX might go away b/c you can milk 60ths design only so many times.
  7. This is my favorite WW2 USN fighter and I've got same box recently, but litle bit intidated by it b/c never worked in anything larger than 48 scale so I am going to take a seat in the front row and watch how this is going to play. Do you know which option are you going to build?
  8. Keep in mind that there were only handfull Ka-50s produced and from what I understand they were a bit different one from another. I think latest Zvezda looks good. Early 90s boxing of Zvezda had Italeri in it and ofcourse when they come up with their own molds they forgot to change the kit number. So if you are going to buy old boxing of Ka-50 there is a 50% chance of getting Italeri. However if you are going to buy Ka-50Sh boxing you are going to get new mold + sprue to represent Sh versions (hint: there were 2 slightly different versions proposed and demonstrated on the MAKS over few differe
  9. Could you elobarate on how did you produce the clear parts? I have few ok vintage models that have all the framing on the inner side of the canopy and would love to replace those with the frames on the outer side.
  10. I guess these guys were afraid of the number 13. B/c they left off one significant and "weird looking" variant of the KC-135: the "Rivet Joint" https://www.af.mil/About-Us/Fact-Sheets/Display/Article/104608/rc-135vw-rivet-joint/
  11. I haven't seen that one. I've built few years back SMT and 9.13. These both look looked a bit wrong (I grew up next to Air Defense base where 9.13s were based). Oh, one thing I completely forgot: I am not sure if I've seen that on MiG-29s but usually on Russian airplanes from Trumpeter you do not want to read stencils if you know Russian language. Since I this is my native language I've made a mistake of using magnifying glass to read stencils for Su-27 when I got that model... I have suspicion that they just hit a keyboard in a Cyrillic layout at random keys to generate it.
  12. Trumpeter has more panel lines and rivets details, however they blew the shape of the "hump" (well, they've got this area wrong for all 29s). Zvezda got the shape right, however big question is if you are going to notice any of this difference if you are not having both models side by side and not too much familiar with 29.
  13. Looks good freshly painted S-37 (see what I did here?) To fight the "toy-like" look you needed to do a bit of weathering on it (if you check the photos of the real thing you would notice that it is a bit spotty so either grey oil dotfilters or blackbased "near the the grey" marbling or both should do the trick.
  14. Didn't know all this. I have a Zvezda Mi-28 in the stash and only b/c I was buying some other model kit online and opened box of the kit I was after + Mi-28 was cheaper then a brand new kit I was after (Don't really remember what kit that was, only remember I've built it almost right away, however Mi-28 is still waiting it's time.
  15. Probably b/c at the end of USSR it lost competition to Ka-50, it is constantly changed, does not have a "cool" factor as either Kamov's helos or Mi-24, current production model is viewed as "we really want all these to be Ka-52 but we cannot afford it" and is probably quite a niche product (would be interesting to find out how it sells in 72 scale (I know only the one from Zvezda, the ancient one from Italeri is a fiction)). What is a bigger mystery is why there is no decent short Huey in 48 scale... I mean I know there is an ancient Revell as well as more recent HobbyBoss but at the best I ca
  16. Doom3r


    I think either is going to be too large. In the pre-covid times I ordered a bunch of 0.5 mm from China and slowly using those for my arduino/raspberry pi projects. Hopefully some day I might light up one of the airliners as well. However today delivery from other countries might take forever so if you are not able to find such leds from electronics supplier closer to you I would suggest checking model railroads sections of hobby shops. Lot of lights used there might be small enough to fit in the wingtip of your model.
  17. IMHO Italeri Hind is worst of the other Hinds: raised panel lines, not very accurate, etc. However it does not have too many parts and is quite easy to build. If you want accuracy above else Zvezda is your best bet. However it has lot of parts, quite complicated, not really good instruction steps, etc: heard lot of stories of people without much experience buying it and giving up in the middle of the build and some of the gaving up on the hobby as well. If you want something in the middle: Hasegawa is good alternative.
  18. I clean it in the Windex (or it's generic replacement, I use the one that has ammonia b/c I use keep same bottle for both cleaning and stripping paint/clear from canopies if I mess up) and quick rinse in the water. I usually dry it in a flow of cool air (hair dryer in cold mode) so spots wouldn't show up and then dip it in the Future.
  19. I wouldn't worry too much about painting really well fan blades: just google the pictures and you would notice that front blades on A-10 look nasty (even the birds I've seen on the shows look quite nasty: blades look like corroded or something, paint chipped at places, bumps in another place, paint touch ups: basically you can clearly see that this plane is definetely not spending it's time in some climate controlled hangar). As well as area in front of them occasionally has black lines that are parralel to blades rotation. So what I would do in such case is to paint the engines and then take
  20. As people mebtioned it means high and low visibility schemes. On this picture hi viz aircraft is in the front and lo viz in the back. As far as rivet counting though: from what I hear (I have built only Hasegawa and Academy and have Hobbyboss in the stash so cannot speak for sure) that unlike Academy or Hobbyboss Tamiya's offerring is pretty accurate for the US cat.
  21. Bounty Hunters. Btw, are you going for hi viz or low viz?
  22. Actually I just checked F-18F pictures and it looks like there is a very subtle gold tinting on thw windscreen. Let me dig into more pictures I took and see if there is somthing like that on single seaters
  23. I've seen Super Hornets on the airshows few times as both static and performer and do not recall any canopy tinting on them (last time was 2 years ago). However from same shows I've noticed that Growlers do have windscreen tinting (similar color to Prowlers or and Vipers)
  24. For such things I usually use oyumaru (sometimes sold as blue stuff) and green stuff (tamiya epoxy putty would do too). The good thing about oyumaru is that once you made replacement part you can reuse mold by melting it in hot water.
  25. Thousand pieces might be attempted to be fixed via liquid decal film. Sunny window works really slow and some times it might take over a month. Also it is possible that glue gone yellow. For that case you just wash off glue in water and apply using "future" as a glue (I beleive there was a guide on how to do it here on the site) However at this point it makes sence to try get different decals though.
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