Doom3r

I might come with the radical answer but lot of times I heard from car modelers that for the colors like red, orange or yellow the best primer is black. I tried it with 40k spacemarines as a primer for red and blue and quite like it. While black color is slightly changing the color to being a bit dark it creates quite a good contrast that is perceived as shadow and depth. PS: I was using black primer with Tamiya acrylic colors so have no idea how would humbrol behave.

Do you know how is it if you compare it to Hasegawa one?

If they'll do they would have to make it really good to be able to compete with mikromir.

If I remember right the upgrade was rushed b/c the friend or foe codes were leaked as a result of Belenko's MiG-25P being disassembled and analyzed. I beleive PDS was almost identical to P except heat detector, r-60 pylons, KM-1M ejection seat and not sure if it had longer nose cone. Early PD had all of those (including longer nose cone) plus a center fuel tank http://www.airwar.ru/other/draw/mig25aiv.html

Do you know if that Swedish company ships to US?

I think so, however I cannot find either in the 1/72 scale

Hi guys, Does anyone aware if there is a Shanin missile in 1/72 scale? From the photos I've seen it doesn't look too different from Hawk missile so if any of you aware of it in 72 scale I think it might do a trick (or maybe not, what are you opinions on that). I am having an "Atlantic Fleet" Tomcat and a set of Hi-Decals that I want to use to build an Alicat. However instead of building another sidewinder-sparrow/phoenix cat want to do something unique to the only other than US user of my favorite plane. And yes, I am aware of a new Hobbyboss in 48 scale that has those missiles...And I'll certainly pick it up as soon as I manage to convince myself that I need another cat in 48th scale... Thanks

I have both in stash and Revell one has less details than Academy but has more interesting decal options. Since I havent built any I cannot comment on which one is more accurate as well as how any of these builds.

Wonder if this could help: https://www.super-hobby.com/products/F-35-Lightning-II-B-Version-US-Marine.html

Here are the photos I took of AC-47 replica. Funny thing though is that guys who maintain this bird said that the C-47 that they "converted" to Spooky was part of the D-Day invasion. PS: Ignore radio and GPS in the cockpit

On one of the airshows last year there was a replica of AC-47. The guys were swearing that they replicated it as close as possible. Majority of the interrior was green with the exception of the floor and pilots area which were grey. I'll post some pictures I took there once I'll be back home.

Hi guys, Sorry for going dark so long: this week was brutal in non pleasant way and didn't had a time for a hobby except few minutes before going to work. Here are my tests: 1. Canopy: unfortunately I dipped it before being asked to show the process so I'll put a bit of description as well as compare with the extra canopy from the same sprue. Here is the procedure: I wash canopy in ammonia based glass cleaning liquid, let it dry, giving a part a god dip into the Future, couple times touch the paper towel with the edge of the canopy to get off excess and place clear piece on the paper towel, leave it for around 24 hours. Repeat the process from the dipping step and leave a canopy for at least another 24 hours (these 3 pictures are the same except getting focus into different locations: focus between 2 canopies, focus to canopy that wasn't dipped (closest), focus on the dipped canopy (middle)) 2. Brush painted piece (A6M2 wing fold...this mule had seen quite a bit of action). Primed via Tamiya Primer spray can, Black base via Tamiya TS-14 (I do not have Gloss Black Mr Color so before ordering (and unfortunately my local hobby shops do not have it so have to order it online ) decided to try on another lacquer based paint), brush painting using Testors Buffing Aluminium (and you can see that things went south, b/c it started to lift black base so for something that has to be brush painted I'm still going to use Alclad Black Base), then brush painted Future (pictures order: black based, aluminium painted and buffed, right after painting Future, after 20 hours of curing) : 3. Airbrush painted: P-51D cabin painted with Tamiya acrylic paints, radio and instrument panel brush painted Model Master US Aircraft Interior Black (pictures order: paint cured, right after spraying Future, after 24 hours of curing Future, another picture of cured Future): Airbrush: Iwata Eclipse HP CS (0.35mm). Pressure settings:

I'll be back home after Memorial Day and would try to snap few pictures of the mentioned earlier Mustang test build.

If I thin Future I thin it about a 30% of 90% IPA. However I do not apply Future (thinned or not) on top of the acrylic paints (exception: dipping tinted clear parts or canopies with painted explosive wire (Harrier, Hawk) in a Future straight off the bottle). Usually I apply it over NMF or in between the weathering layers (of course if you haven't been weathering with acrylic paints; if it is weathered with acrylic paints or on top of acrylic paints then I do not thin it). If I apply it with paintbrush you might see the brushstrokes initially, just make sure it is applied everywhere and do not touch the model for 8-24 hours. I never had a case when it wouldn't self level. If I apply it via airbrush I use 0.35 or 0.5 nozzle using quite low pressure (7-15 psi) and from a distance of couple inches. Again, once applied it might look a bit like orange peel but if you give it time it would level itself. One tip on how do I deal with the time: I apply Future as a last step for the day for the model (usually before getting to other things before going to bed, then wake up in the morning, go to work, come back after 6pm and the model usually is ready for the next steps).

I'm using paintbrush to apply it to either small surfaces or mules to try something and don't want to clean airbrush and I haven't run into such issues. I am also dipping anything clear as well as sometimes spraying it over nmf and haven't had any issues as well. I usually do not touch the model for 8-12 hours after applying it. However, I wonder if this stuff could degrade if frozen and if it was frozen while shipped to you. Also I wonder if you would be able to achieve consistent finish if you would give it a shake before applying.