morty_3333 Posted January 21, 2018 Author Share Posted January 21, 2018 Thanks Chris! They will change a bit with varnish and weathering but I think they are a good starting point. Cheers, Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 This is looking really good Im looking forward to watching this build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morty_3333 Posted January 21, 2018 Author Share Posted January 21, 2018 G'day Norman! Thanks for looking in,I hope to start getting going on the decks by next weekend...... Keep Sticking! Cheers Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noeyedears Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 wow, thats a size alright. The gators grip glue, is it the same actual adhesive as the normal gators grip just thinner? or is it a different thing altogether? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Aris Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 Looking very good so far, i will be following your progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morty_3333 Posted January 22, 2018 Author Share Posted January 22, 2018 Hi Everybody! Thanks for looking in! Noeyedears, I've not used the 'normal' Gator Grip before,so I can't compare the two, but it is marked on the bottle best for PE, and it does seem thinner than say, Micro Crystal Clear. It seems to hold the PE well and grabs quite quickly, but as I said You've got to pick the right application for it, I don't think it would be strong enough to assemble high stress joints, but OK for layering and reinforcing corners etc. Keep Sticking! Cheers, Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamg1987 Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 i like the preshading on the Hull its taking shape nicely Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick C Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 Looking good Pete, Cheers Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robgizlu Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 6 hours ago, morty_3333 said: Hi Everybody! Thanks for looking in! Noeyedears, I've not used the 'normal' Gator Grip before,so I can't compare the two, but it is marked on the bottle best for PE, and it does seem thinner than say, Micro Crystal Clear. It seems to hold the PE well and grabs quite quickly, but as I said You've got to pick the right application for it, I don't think it would be strong enough to assemble high stress joints, but OK for layering and reinforcing corners etc. Keep Sticking! Cheers, Pete I have both and if I'm honest I prefer the normal Gator Grip which is (excuse me!) "grippier". I think they are identical apart from the PE version being thinner and less viscous. Great build and very fine paint work going on. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morty_3333 Posted January 22, 2018 Author Share Posted January 22, 2018 Hi Rob! Thanks for the reply and the heads up about the Gator Grip,I'll get some of the normal one as well to try on different PE jobs, I like to experiment with different adhesives,varnishes etc. Keep Sticking! Cheers, Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morty_3333 Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 Hi there Everybody! A quick update:- Applying draft marks, these are dry transfers, I hav'nt used these since ' Letraset' days, I remember that You used the get them in cereal packets with TV caracters etc (Batman, Addams Family, Land of the Giants etc), and rub them down on a scene printed on the back of the box,long time ago! So I looked up the best way to put them on a model , basically the rules seem to be:- Glossy surface, hold in place securely ,don't rub down too hard and burnish down after application.......... appears to work! :- Brushed a quick coat of Klear onto required areas:- Transfers cut into seperate pieces so that they laid flat on the application area and secured with some masking tape:- Rubbed down just enough to release from carrier film, and burnished down using a piece of tracing paper:- Done!:- Hull given a wash of Paynes Grey oil paint thinned with lighter fluid (Naptha):- Thicker version of wash used to highlight detail:- Small amount of oil paint left to rest on a piece of card to draw some oil out,then used for a pin-wash,drawn down with a naphta dampened brush:- Mig rust pigments used to weather anchors and fixed with fixer:- I'll let this settle overnight,then get a coat of Matt clear laquer on tomorrow,then it can be fastened back to the base for now whilst I start on the decks. More soon! Keep Sticking! Cheers, Pete 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SallysDad Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 On 1/21/2018 at 11:07 AM, Kris B said: Nice colours. Love the colours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SallysDad Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 You are doing a beautiful job, Pete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k5054nz Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 A wonderful class in weathering, Pete. I'm not much of a shipbuilder but this is massively inspirational stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morty_3333 Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 Hi Everybody! Thanks for looking in and replies to My Hood build, sorry for not posting much the last few days, but I had to have a steroid injection in My wrist that has kept Me away from the bench, and required medication! I'm cracking on again today (), and hope to have an update on either later today or tomorrow. Keep Sticking! Cheers, Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morty_3333 Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 Good day to Everyone! As promised, here is an update on the latest shenanigins! As You may recall from an earlier post, I was debating which props to use, not being overly fond of the brass replacement ones in the Pontos set, and I've decided to go with the kit ones painted up, using My system for Alclad:- Quite happy with the result:- Model bolted back on it's base where it will remain until I build the case when it is completed (it will be removed just to fit the self-adhesive felt):- I've worked out a plan of action for the build order, it is a quite involved build, hopping between the kit instructions, the Pontos 'guide' and the recommendations from the Hood Association site,which fortunately tie in quite well with the Pontos set. Obviously, the main deck sections are first to be tackled, removing detail where called for by Pontos so the wood overlays will fit, then I will finish paint and weather paint any areas nessecary before fitting the deck to save mucho fiddly masking,gluing down the wood and then assembling, painting and fixing all fittings required for the area, basically each level will be completely finished before moving on to the next. The only exceptions to this being being the main deck railings and any other knocky-off bits (Technical engineering term), as the build progresses. then it will be a matter of building inside to outside, top to bottom, treating each area as seperate model unto itself, I think this is the best way to keep a grasp on a very complicated build. Some forward looking will of course be needed, but just enough so I don't get too confused as I get older(what day is it??)! Anyway,some cleaning up of 'A' and 'Y' Turret barbettes so the Turret bases will fit:- Areas to be smoted marked up with a marker pen, and weapon of choice selected:- Wood deck overlay , I'll run a scalpel blade round to cut through the plastic backing sheet:- Trumpeter have depicted the Hawsepipe hole shapes wrong, and the Pontos set deals with this by having You leaving some of the detail in place to seat a PE template to recut the holes in the plastic deck, and provide resin replacements of the correct size and shape (Note - not Quite this shape,clever chap here trimmed a small flange at the back off by accident,that will be replaced!) that sit on top of the wooden deck, as shown in the following series of photos:- Decks 'weeded' to test fit:- Wood overlays and decks dry test fitted - all is well! Tomorrow I will be starting on the deck fittings - onwards and upwards! Keep Sticking!! Cheers, Pete 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Aris Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 Love the hacking and cutting away of plastic,it gives the sense of asking why they made it so bad in the first place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morty_3333 Posted February 1, 2018 Author Share Posted February 1, 2018 Hi Kevin! Yes, there's a lot of stuff to grind off,mainly to fit the wooden deck overlays, but worth it in the long run! A lot of splinter shields will be going too, replaced by brass for more accurate shape/thickness. Talking about getting it right, I've got the funnel issue to correct, 1 funnel smaller than the other! Keep Sticking! Cheers, Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morty_3333 Posted February 9, 2018 Author Share Posted February 9, 2018 (edited) Hi Everybody! Slow going at the moment, will try to post a few pics later,got a full day () at the bench today, so the project hasn't I'm thinking the decks will look a little too clean, any tips for dirtying down (just a bit?), I don't want to screw them up! Keep Sticking! Cheers, Pete Edited February 9, 2018 by morty_3333 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morty_3333 Posted February 17, 2018 Author Share Posted February 17, 2018 Hi There Everybody! Still Alive! Sorry about the gap in postings, life etc Y'know......... Anyway, You know how We say "I'll just do those 7 bits, it will only take about 10 minutes? Yeah, right........... I started by writing a list of all the fittings required for the 3 main deck sections and came up with this (not a complete list, no railings or 'knocky-off bits)....... The idea is to prime,paint and weather all fittings before attaching them to the model,don't need to be masking amongst PE ,so as parts finished they are fixed to a piece of scrap timber with double sided tape,and a label glued to the front:- Parts to build two anchor wildcats, and the finished items:- You would'nt think You would need so much room to work on PE! :- Progress so far, nearly 50% (of the first list) done! You may notice some styrene in the next pic, the bases for the large bitts are 3 short in the earlier release of the Pontos set, which is covered by an additional part fret,mine arrived - NO Kidding - 15 Minutes after I'd glued these up! The small bitt scratched from styrene is to replace the original brass one which is probably orbiting alongside the ISS! So, more progress as and when, back at work tomorrow so it will be in the week. Keep Sticking! Cheers, Pete 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morty_3333 Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 Hi Everyone! Sorry for the lack of updates, still cracking on with Hood, it's just that there's not a lot to show at the moment,still working through the deck fittings ready to paint them, I will post with observations and pics hopefully at the beginining of next week Take care all, and............. Kep Sticking! Cheers, Pete 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggu Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Incredible work Morty, I'm an airplane guy, BUT will follow this build closely, what and incredible amount of detail work ...............lots ahead of you as well.... where did you get the sticky part picker upper tool?? I looked and can't seem to find them, that looks like something that should be in my tool box.............. following with great interest...... ( father in law, 25 years in the RCN , I better show some interest eh??) LOL!! Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kris B Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 Wow, that's looks impressive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clive_t Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 Arriving really late to this, following now though! Not that I will ever have room even to build something like this, never mind show it - but one can dream, of course! Superb work so far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morty_3333 Posted March 26, 2018 Author Share Posted March 26, 2018 Hi Everybody! Yes, I'm still alive! Just about finished the fittings for the deck,just the breakwaters to finish off, I've got three whole days this week to get on with it,so I will get some pics up for sure!! It's been a bit of a steep learning curve,hence the time it's taken,but the design of the Pontos set is really excellent and helps an awful lot. Having a go at soldering on some spare etch,had to get some smaller diameter non-cored solder to use with Baker's Fluid,plus My soldering iron died(from shock probably!,not used it for a bit),so bought a 40w with a fine tip. Also got some low temp. solder (Carr's No.6) to try soldering multiple parts together. Jeff, I got the sticky pick-uo tool from Amazon.co.uk,should be something similar on .com, search for 'Pinflair Sticky Pick Up Tool'. It has lost it's tackiness a bit with use so rinsed it under water and air-dried it and it came back a bit, but also have been using the old back-up off a cocktail stick with a blob of blue tac. Thanks to everybody for sticking with My build, I'm in for the long haul!! Keep Sticking! Cheers, Pete 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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