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Red Arrows Hawk with a bit of extra shine


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There is an inner and a outer strap. The inner strap is what first connects the front and rear mouldings together. An arch in then glued on top of the inner strap (it looks like a horse shoe with a flange round the outside). The inner windscreen is bolted to this. The outer strap is glued on the outside of the canopy to cover the joint. That's what you can see halfway along the canopy. Hope this helps explain what you want to know.

Ah. Interesting. Close up photos suggest that the external strap may be thinner in width than the internal:

1024px-Redarrowscloseuparp_zpseb9159b2.j

(Photographed by Adrian Pingstone on July 17th 2006 and released to the public domain)

Have I got that right?

PS. Sorry for the thread drift CT - but I know (or at least believe) you're anal enough to want to know for future ref as well :)

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Ah. Interesting. Close up photos suggest that the external strap may be thinner in width than the internal:

1024px-Redarrowscloseuparp_zpseb9159b2.j

(Photographed by Adrian Pingstone on July 17th 2006 and released to the public domain)

Have I got that right?

PS. Sorry for the thread drift CT - but I know (or at least believe) you're anal enough to want to know for future ref as well :)

That's correct. The outer strap is about 53mm wide. The inner strap is wider. :)
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That look absolutely wonderful mate. The red looks spot on and that LED really brings it to life.

Can I ask what acrylic rod you use and more importantly how you go about bending it to shape as I need to do something similar in the near future.

Rob :)

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Ah. Interesting. Close up photos suggest that the external strap may be thinner in width than the internal:

1024px-Redarrowscloseuparp_zpseb9159b2.j

(Photographed by Adrian Pingstone on July 17th 2006 and released to the public domain)

Have I got that right?

PS. Sorry for the thread drift CT - but I know (or at least believe) you're anal enough to want to know for future ref as well :)

When I did my crappy oneI used a thin strip of (possibly) 0.07mm Aizu tape on the outer arch.

A thin brushed layer of ModelAir White 71.001 covered the yellow tape and gave it a nicely creamy look

As for anal, even if Mark didn't care for the drift I did

Driftin'R-Us wherever I am

That stuff about the inner and outer arch is incredibly useful

I'll be WANTING some thread drift on my Jag build when I get round to doubleglazing the T2

There's a window and an arch on them too, innit peeps.

CT that base is better than excellent

Let's hear it for S U P E R B chaps

Edited by perdu
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Can I ask what acrylic rod you use and more importantly how you go about bending it to shape as I need to do something similar in the near future.

I used 5mm acylic tube from ebay (cost about £3.50) to contain the wires but rod would be better if there is no need for it to be hollow. it can be formed by heating in boiling water, oven at around 100-130C, or the way I did it was with a heat gun to keep the heat isolated to the bit you want to bend. I used a 10mm punch as a former but anything round would do.

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I don't think anyone would notice the frame position. The angle looks right. And going by all the positive feed back, people really like your Hawk. It does look really good.

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I used 5mm acylic tube from ebay (cost about £3.50) to contain the wires but rod would be better if there is no need for it to be hollow. it can be formed by heating in boiling water, oven at around 100-130C, or the way I did it was with a heat gun to keep the heat isolated to the bit you want to bend. I used a 10mm punch as a former but anything round would do.

Great result - I think the best Red Arrows Hawk I've seen so far, definitely at this scale.

To simplify wiring and fitting the LED, would it have been possible to use clear acrylic rod for the stand, and then inserted a smaller diameter piece into the end within the fuselage, which would extend to the nose? You could have put the LED and wiring entirely within the base and used the stand as a long fibreoptic cable I guess?

I built an A380 with all the lights working for my son, and it used fibreoptic cable extensively for the smaller lights: If you carefully drill the LED "lens" and insert a cable, you can route it very easily to wherever you need to terminate it. to reduce bulk, you can drill each LED multiple times for multiple fibres if necessary, and flashing LEDs add another feature.

Cheers.

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To simplify wiring and fitting the LED, would it have been possible to use clear acrylic rod for the stand, and then inserted a smaller diameter piece into the end within the fuselage, which would extend to the nose? You could have put the LED and wiring entirely within the base and used the stand as a long fibreoptic cable I guess?

Might work on some models but on this one cockpit the floor is flush with the inside of the fuselage leaving no room for or anything else so grooves had to be cut into the floor part to take the 0.25mm LED leads and wires. Not enough room for enough fibre on this one. certainly something to consider for some future builds though.

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