perdu Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 Looks like Andy is right slopy back straight up-ish corners needed there not a pointy bit, but a bit of black strip makes a huge difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 (edited) S'true they don't come to a point at the sides but then neither do mine The sides have a vertical edge from the side: I did cut the ends of the decal strip off with a vertical edge. Doesn't show up so good on the photo's - best one I've got at the mo is this one - I gave it a pre-decalling squirt of Klear and it'm leaving it to harden for a day or two before giving it a polish: Can't reallly see it. Maybe I could have made the flat edge a bit more prominent - but it's pretty bloomin small dontcha know Edited September 1, 2014 by Fritag 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 (edited) Great stuff and nice reworking of the door latches. Very tidy work. How did you go about it, Re-scribe ?. I ask as it is particularly neet and fine work. The nose decal looks the dogs danglies, Glad the MicroMesh Paddle idea works for you. That was the week I ended up with 1 hours sleep for Cosford show that I come up with that. (Actually I am not sure if I come up with it or someone suggested it, Either way I am sure its been done before) Still not finished them Vulcans off yet. Must get to it soon. Nice work. Looking forward to seeing T'other one come together soon. Cheers Rob Edited September 1, 2014 by robvulcan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 S'true they don't come to a point at the sides but then neither do mine The sides have a vertical edge from the side: I did cut the ends of the decal strip off with a vertical edge. Doesn't show up so good on the photo's - best one I've got at the mo is this one - I gave it a pre-decalling squirt of Klear and it'm leaving it to harden for a day or two before giving it a polish: Can't reallly see it. Maybe I could have made the flat edge a bit more prominent - but it's pretty bloomin small dontcha know My inclination would be to say "Stuff it, it's right enough for Guvvernmint work" and move sweetly on It's looking Fritag, this being a phrase we modellers use when describing Nirvana don't ya know love the engine latches (who the hell even notices engine cover latches?) Superb engraving mate Tres Fritag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 (edited) Forgive me for being a little bit devilish (may have missed this if picked up previously), but will you be replicating the intake mesh covers? They would really look the part. Not forgiven. Nope. Aint gonna happen....... Worrying about Engine door latches. Sad eh! And not just me by the looks of things.............(bit of a comfort that). Great stuff and nice reworking of the door latches. Very tidy work. How did you go about it, Re-scribe ?. Cheers Rob They were a right royal pain actually - wish I hadn't had to do it. I stuck a thin strip of electrical masking tape (triple thickness) horizontally along the fuselage to get the top of the latches level, then scribed the top lines with an electric sewing machine needle using the tape as a guide, more strips of tape as a guide to do the vertical lines and then a further horizontal strip halfway up to get the middle lines level. Then used the tip of a craft blade to widen the lines on the bottom half for effect. Don't recommend scribing through paint - especially acrylics - as the paint tends to chip off - and that happened here, hence the need for Rob's micromesh paddles and the paint touch up. Edited September 1, 2014 by Fritag 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 Well your helping me in return as I have a scribing headache with some resin at the moment and the dental tool, knife and tamiya a river are not working the way they do on plastic. I have been using doubled tamiya tape to get curves but electrical tape is a good idea. As is the seeing needle. Cheers Steve Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MolarDoc Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 The black light framing looks great - Now how are you going to do the countersunk screws??? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 They may seem small improvements but they are very effective ones! Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Nose light seal looks the dogs mate. How did you find the Neo? nice little brush init. I have been using doubled tamiya tape to get curves but electrical tape is a good idea.As is the seeing needle. , Rob, try and get hold of the thin blue 3M 471 vinyl masking tape much better than insulation tape IMHO for curved lines. Sewing machine needles are very good Tried one a while back and have never gone back to the trumpeter trench cutter I used to use since. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Lovely work so far. Of course you realise that now yo have done all this work, Airfix will be doing brand new toolings for the JPT3/4 and T.5 for 2015 won't they? I am hoping. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyot Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 I love the paintwork,........very nice indeed! Cheers Tony 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted September 9, 2014 Author Share Posted September 9, 2014 (edited) Lovely work so far. Of course you realise that now yo have done all this work, Airfix will be doing brand new toolings for the JPT3/4 and T.5 for 2015 won't they? I am hoping. I'd have a couple of em. Maybe I could even build em quickly? Ok. Getting over the return to work rush. Seen how much fun Ex-FAAWAFU is having experimenting building stuff whilst on holiday in Norfolk - so I decided to tackle the undercarriages - something I've been putting off. The JP has quite a squat chunky little undercarriage. After all it had to put up with multiple student 'landings' (loosely termed - perhaps 'arrivals' is better) often several of them in one attempted landing......: I took these photos of the JP3 at Newark and the inner tube/piston of the oleo has a sleeve clamped to it (the reddish clamp) - presumably to support the oleo it in extension - and that's why it doesn't look chrome in the photos. Also the clamped oleo is a bit more extended than you generally see in parked operational JPs. The kit offerings are not great. The Airfix ones (in grey) are unusable and the CMR ones (in black) are not as good as the rest of the kit The CMR nose leg - at least in my example- was shapeless in parts - and I couldn't clean it up successfully and whilst the main legs are not bad the examples in my kit were partially misshaped (incomplete moulding I think) and the resin was very rough and difficult to clean up. I had no choice but to scratch the Airfix legs and little choice but to scratch the CMR legs. At least doing them all would also mean they should (hopefully) resemble each other. Anyways - It was an opportunity to use my recently acquired mitre block : I used some 1mm plastic rod for the inner (chromed) tube, 1.7mm plastic rod for the outer tube and 2mm plastic tube for the sections with a greater diameter. For the main legs I started off by gluing some sections of 2mm tube over the 1mm rod. These will form the lower section of the legs. Then drilled a 1mm hole into the end of the 1.7mm rod (fiddly - had about a 75% success rate): Then glued the two parts together: Repeated several times (varying stages of completion): The two legs on the left will be the nose wheel legs - they don't have the 2mm tube on the bottom as they will connect with the U shaped nose wheel shackle/bracket. On the left of the photo is the nose wheel shackle/bracket I've liberated from the misshapen CMR moulding. I need two of these nose wheel shackle/brackets. So I improved the shape of the CMR effort as best I could (in the photo below you can just see that I put some cyano blobs on the inside edges of the bracket at the tips to create a couple of lugs/spigots which will hopefully engage with the holes in the middle of the nose wheel. In the absence of such lugs/spigots I'm not sure how CMR expect you to glue the nose wheel into the nose leg?...Anyway here's the photo: And then I made an RTV mould: Which I filled using the 'bombs away' method to avoid air bubbles. I'm sure I learnt this method from a Cheshiretaurus post. I've learnt so many techniques from his posts that I can't believe it was anywhere else . I'm usually neater than this - but you try doing it an taking an iPhone piccie at the same time. I had some doubts that I'd get any decent casts because the RTV mould was really small. Oh BTW - I used some 1.5ml laboratory test tubes to get equal small measures of the resin mix. And yes I got the idea for the laboratory test tubes off of Cheshiretaurus's thread........ Pleasingly I got a couple of decent resin casts - although I did need to fill a coupe of air bubble holes on one of them with thin cyano. And here's where I'm up to with my kit of parts for the two nose wheel legs - with the kit efforts for comparison. The legs need a little bit of refining and reshaping yet. Ages ago I cast some copies of the CMR wheels for use on the Airfix kit and the lighter resin nose wheel is my copy - you can see the centre depression in the nose wheel that I'm hoping the spigots on my nose wheel shackle/bracket will engage with. Here's where I'm up to with the main gear legs: The two lower legs have been cut to length and a rod glued into the top which will locate on pre-drilled holes in the undercarriage bays. The CMR black resin parts are the shackles, one end of which locates about half way up the leg and the other end in the undercarriage bay. I've got enough for both JPs so don't need to cast any more. The glued-together-rods sticking out of the green plasticine will be the brake pad housings that sit underneath the bottom off the leg. I'll cut 1mm or so cross sections from the rods. I'm not sure what diameter rod to use so i did two different sizes and I'll choose the one that looks better. There are anti-torque scissor shackles on the main pages and I've got to produce the lugs that attach to the main legs yet. So a bit more work to go yet and then they'll need a little bit of cleaning up and refining. On reflection the legs may be a bit over engineered; but on the other hand my concern was to ensure they were strong enough to support the weight of the kits - and they're both quite heavy given the required lead in the nose to prevent them tail sitting. Been fun tho' Steve Edited September 9, 2014 by Fritag 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 Lovely work so far. Of course you realise that now yo have done all this work, Airfix will be doing brand new toolings for the JPT3/4 and T.5 for 2015 won't they? I am hoping. Let's hope so that would be good to see, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 Excellent work on the gear Steve, casts looks good. For really small resin mixes I've taken to using one of the lab tubes to mix in and measure the A&B parts by numbers of drops of each from a cocktail stick. ie 10 drops of A & 10 drops of B mixed with the cocktail stick. Once poured leave to cocktail stick in the tube. then when the resin has set it can simply be pulled out with the cocktail stick and the tube reused. I've moved on since to having the A&B in two little 10ml dropper bottles and still mixing drop for drop in a lab tube. really makes small casts hassle free with no clean up needed afterwards. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 I agree with Mark Steve - more tremendous work & some cracking casts of such a small part !! I think you did miss one small trick though - a 1mm sewing machine needle would have made excellent chrome oleos.... K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zone19 Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 I've found that the nurofen syringe is excellent for measuring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zone19 Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 I think you did miss one small trick though - a 1mm sewing machine needle would have made excellent chrome oleos.... K Now that one I will remember cheers keefr22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted September 9, 2014 Author Share Posted September 9, 2014 (edited) I've moved on since to having the A&B in two little 10ml dropper bottles and still mixing drop for drop in a lab tube. really makes small casts hassle free with no clean up needed afterwards. Got some of those in the junk box modelling cupboard - might try decanting some resin. So far I've always wanted the comfort of seeing measured quantities to make sure I've got the ratio right at 50/50 - early on I must have got it wrong because one batch never cured. I've been even more cautious with smaller quantities of resin. But if you've had no problems measuring it with drops i think I'll give it a go. I like the idea of avoiding as much clean up as possible. As you say tho', one little bonus of casting is that both the cured RTV and the cured resin (the latter depending on the type of plastic) can just be pulled from the measuring cup etc. and the cup reused. I've found that the nurofen syringe is excellent for measuring Yeah, me too. I've got a variety of syringes I've used for measuring paint ratios etc. I think you did miss one small trick though - a 1mm sewing machine needle would have made excellent chrome oleos.... If I've only missed one trick you can knock me down with a feather duster................. I had a mini production line of undercarriage leg lugs going on. But then I thought I'd better stop and get some earning money type work done. Edited September 9, 2014 by Fritag 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 So far I've always wanted the comfort of seeing measured quantities to make sure I've got the ratio right at 50/50 - early on I must have got it wrong because one batch never cured. I've had that problem a couple of times and I think it was down to poor mixing rather than proportions. Both A&B need a good shake before use (once shaken they are good for a few hours of use) and the mix needs to be stirred for at least 1 min. Once started keeping to those rules I've never had one not cure. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 Hmm, I've never shaken the resin, always thought that would just be more chance of introducing air bubbles? I have also found that thorough mixing has prevented any mixes not curing - something I also had early on & which I think was due to sloppy mixing. K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted September 9, 2014 Author Share Posted September 9, 2014 (edited) There's something curiously satisfying about casting your own resin bits and bobs. Especially if you've made your own master. I would have made just one main undercarriage leg and cast the other 3 if they hadn't been handed - and had too many protrusions -and probably not been so strong - and it would have taken longer as I would have had to wait for the RTV to set and...... Well it was never really the best solution......but I still wanted to do it........ Edited September 9, 2014 by Fritag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 There's something curiously satisfying about casting your own resin bits and bobs. . I find it very 'Blue Peterish' - making a right mess (or maybe that's just me) & getting a new toy to play with at the end of it all....!! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 Defiantly addictive too, having a little production line going. Tried pressure casting a couple of months ago, makes some much better intricate casts but also revealed how many bubbles my moulds really had still in them. Got a vacuum chamber last week to prevent that on future moulds. Still hiding it from her indoors. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 Getting pretty professional now then Mark...?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 Getting pretty professional now then Mark...?! Getting pretty much in trouble when I get rumbled more like. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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