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  1. A few years ago Pegasus Models came out with some vinyl dinosaur models in 1/24 scale. They released a Tyrannosaurus Rex, Triceratops and a Spinosaurus. Having picked up all three, I gave the T-Rex and Triceratops a try. The Spinosaurus has disappeared into the void known as my son's room. Overall, the detail was great, fit wasn't perfect but not bad. The models were cast solid so they have a fair bit of weight to them. I recently noticed the T-Rex kit languishing in the basement and decided to see what I could with it. First thing I did was I managed to get both hind legs off and work on improving the fit. This mostly involved removing some vinyl from the joint area. I then glued them back in place. I then primed the entire figure. All the paints I'm using are acrylic as anything else won't dry on the vinyl.
  2. jean

    Arsenal VG 33

    Hi everyone, I wanted to add a French plane as I had not finished one in a long time. This one seems to fit the bill: small and potentially quick to finish building 🤫 This kit reached the middle of nowhere we call home all the way from Bonnie Scotland, courtesy of Pat, aka @JOCKNEY aka the Scottish Santa. Again a big thank you... It was timidly started and this KUTA seemed a great occasion to deal with it once and for all! A few photos: What has been done to date: not much. I worked on the wheel wells, that were just a big void looking into the cockpit area... As well, the ammunition covers were about 1 mm over the surface of the wing, which is wrong. They should be level with the wing surface. So out came the sanding pads. And that is where the work stopped for some forgotten reason. and from the upper side: So here is what is left to build: And I almost forgot the high tech instructions: Thanks for watching. JR
  3. Freedom Model Kits (http://www.freedommks.com/) is to release in 2014 Q1 a 1/48th Northrop Grumman X-47B Pegasus kit - ref. FD18001 Source: http://www.cybermodeler.com/news/freedom.shtml V.P.
  4. I suppose that like a lot of modellers of my age I pretty much built every aircraft kit that Airfix released for quite a few years including a number of WWI biplanes – Camel, Albatros DV, Fokker Triplane, Bristol Fighter, RE8, Pup, Spad VII, DH4, O/400, Hannover and Roland - in fact AFAIK the only one I did not build as such was the Avro 504, though I did cross-kit one with an RE8 to make something a bit like a Sopwith 1½ Strutter as in an Airfix Magazine conversion. I also built just about all of the ones Revell released from the 1960's onwards but as I learned more about WWI planes it became apparent that there were lots of gaps, particularly in terms of German machines. I went through a “WWI phase” in the late 1980's to early 1990's and bough a batch of mostly vac-formed planes such as the Albatros, LVG and Rumpler B and C types and a few short run injection ones as well but the only ones I ever managed to build were a Bristol M1C and a Bristol Scout D with 2 or three others part built. I ended up giving the vac-forms away as I gradually bought Roden and Eastern Express kits but they did not include the German B, C and CL types which is a pity. One of the part finished kits was a 1980's Merlin Vickers “Gunbus”, and for some reason I decided to buy a “better” replacement about 20 years ago. It was apparently released in 1992 as the box has a "10th anniversary" marking on it. According to reviews at the time it seems it is possible to make a half way decent model from this kit, but it is not going to be easy. On the plus side it is injection moulded and the wire “strutting” for the axle and boom is supposedly cut to size and there is a white metal u/c assembly, but on the minus side the instructions are not brilliant, it is going to be very fiddly making the tail “boom” from plastic and wire with CA, the interplane strutting is thin and bent, and rigging it will potentially be a real pain, not helped by the small size and my shaking old hands, so I think this satisfies the “not my comfort zone” tag. Anyway, I will have a shot at it but not guarantee it will get finished. More if and when I take the plunge. Pete
  5. My Rumpler C.IV build is approaching completion and I have learnt quite a lot from it about building short run WWI biplanes, but before I do more with my really "uncomfortable" FB.5 I think I still need to work on my technique with wing struts so I thought I would have a shot at this. Again a 2 bay biplane with staggered wings but at least there is no sweepback on the wings and it is a lot smaller, though that may turn out to be more of a disadvantage in some respects such as getting in to glue things. Anyway I always fancied one of these as although it was overshadowed by the slightly later and far better known Albatros D types it was actually rather a significant machine - first of the German purpose built tractor biplane fighters with a synchronized forward firing machine gun, and it helped to check the Allied air supremacy in the early part of 1916 when planes such as the DH.2, Morane Saulnier Type N and Nieuport 11 had largely put a stop to the so called "Fokker Scourge", but more on that later. Many years ago I did buy a vacform of this machine made by Airframe but it was really basic - just wings, tail and fuselage being "useable" as the wheels and props would have needed a lot of work. At the time I suspect I had not come across the Aeroclub white metal accessories and Contrail struts so it ended up in the bin. Later, perhaps 15 years ago I picked up this Pegasus limited run injection kit which, whilst still potentially tricky, is a lot better proposition. It comes with most of the bits needed except perhaps some rod but I may have misplaced that or put it in the FB.5 box in error. If you are going to build something like this it is a great help if you have one or more decent reference sources, but unlike the FB.5 and Rumpler I did not have a Windsock book on it. However browsing a well known auction site I spotted one by Peter Grosz for sale for £20 - far more than I was prepared to pay. However, the fact that this plane is not too well known and there are few if any kits about at the moment may have helped as nobody wanted to bid on it, so I made the seller an offer they could not refuse, and have just heard I have "won" it for considerably less! Once that arrives I shall make a start. I always find it mildly amusing when somebody sells something on auction sites that they perhaps think is rare/collectable due to its age/author or whatever but maybe overestimates the value to somebody who actually wants to read it, particularly if the subject is "specialised" as books that interest modellers often are! I think I got lucky this time as I rather suspect that only a slightly fanatical aircraft modeller would have ever heard of the Halberstadt fighters of WWI, few of which were actually built. Halberstadt were rather better known for their C and CL type two seaters. and in fact one of the vacforms I let Pat have was their CL II. Pete
  6. This is another kit I've been working on in the last few weeks but was quite hesitant to enter in the GB, you'll see why reading along 🙂 But first a bit of background: the XP-40Q was the last iteration of the Curtiss P-40 Warhawk family in an attempt to match the performance of more recent competitors like the N.A. P-51. Three prototypes were built, all different and obtained from existing airframes: XP-40Q-1 was the first aircraft, built from a P-40K, its most distinctive features being the longer nose without the deep chin intake and the four bladed propeller. A few months later it was further modified becoming the XP-40Q-2 with a cut back rear fuselage, bubble canopy, clipped wings and radiators/air intake relocated between mid wing units and a chin intake, albeit not so deep as a regular P-40. It suffered at least two accidents while testing and it is not clear what happened of it. XP-40Q-2A was the second airframe, again built from a P-40K, and very similar to the final configuration of the first one. This one however was left in a natural metal finish, while the other was painted with the regular Olive Drab and Neutral Grey camouflage. It had a troubled existence and spent most of its time as a test-bed for Allison, later it resurfaced as NX300B participating to the 1947 Thompson Trophy Race where it was destroyed by an engine fire while racing. XP-40Q-3 was the last of the series, this time built from a P-40N, its distinctive feature a more streamlined canopy and windscreen. Again, it had problems and accidents which coupled with its doubtful usefulness by the end of the war marked its fate. Now we come to the kit: I purchased it when released in 1992 directly from Pegasus, then set to start immedately, cleaning all the main components and the cockpit parts. At that point I don't know what happened but my enthusiasm vanished completely and the box remained for decades in my cupboard and then in the basement completely untouched Fast forward to 2019 and I retrieved the box from the basement with a strong determination to build it in the Curtiss P-40 STGB, but again, nothing happened. The box kept rattling around in the cupboard for three more years and this time I finally decided I should get rid of it! So, this is the box top and here below you can see where I started from: just the main pieces for the cockpit and a wide empty space to fill! More to come and thanks for looking!
  7. Pegasus short-run injection moulded kit backdated to the earlier P111 configuration with short-span wings, one-piece windscreen and home made decals. With the later P111a and P120 - all from Pegasus kits. Steve
  8. Converted from the Pegasus P111 with scratchbuilt fin and tailplane and home made decals. With the P111 and P111a - also Pegasus kits. Steve
  9. This is the old Pegasus short-run injection moulded kit with home made decals as the kit ones were well past their best. The real P111 is preserved at the Midland Air Museum, Coventry. ] Family shot with the same aircraft as the earlier P111 and the P120. Steve
  10. Here's my recent conversion of the 1:72 Pegasus Airco DH.4 into the passenger carrying DH.4A from Instone Air Lines. The original gained fame for winning the very King's Cup. An article on the conversion will appear in one of the upcoming issues of SAMI. I hope you like it! Peter
  11. So finally finished this beast, Pegasus Hobbies HK Tank from Terminator 2. The kit is made of a different plastic to usual and all had to be super glued togetther, so after some 154 pieces and a major paint job. We started with trial and error with paints, black primer, no primer, brush painting airbrush paint etc until finally a base coat of Humbrol 191 Chrome, straight onto the plastic applied with a flat brush, followed by a second coat with a larger flat brush solved the problem. I hear you say no problem with airbrush, but i hairystick my models. The tracks were rubber which i gave a Tamiya weathering master touch to metalise the tracks by dry brushing, stopped them looking toyish. So for you perusal heres the finished result. And this one for scale tin of paint. And finally an atmospheric shot, sat astride my scanner printer. All the best Chris
  12. I really shouldn't start another kit right now so here it is,after Tim's build I had to have one.It's on it's way from KK,but I won't start till the Hunter and Sea Hurricane are done which should be within the week.I have decal's from Airfix's offering if the kit one's are poor and I'm sure I have the code's/serial's for Stanford-Tuck's DT-A,we'll see..
  13. Just finished the kit: Pegasus models, 1/32nd? Terminator HK Machine. This was an expensive model but close enough to the movie prop and fits together well. Basically a grey-blue soft styrene with one transparent sprue, so you can light it if you want. Landing legs are moulded retracted, and would need new legs to be in the down position. Model has a single leg stand. CAUTION: The internal locating pins are too large for the locating sockets -had to drill socket holes out to get an easy fit...Otherwise a test fit could fix the two body parts together! The two engines are not linked on the model, and probably rotate differentially to balance the machine by computer control, but I found it looked better when they rotate together. To do this I had to cut away two of the large locating and alignment pins and their sockets, which were in the way of the cross shaft, but there are other locating pins, so it isn't important. I then made up a cross-shaft out of a plastic sprue, then drilled out the two collars, (Parts A4), and glued the length of sprue in place, making sure I had aligned the engine mounting lugs: see picture. A very easy mod. Most joints follow panel lines, some need a little filler. and sanding. Painting: There are no guides for this so any imagination can come up with a scheme painting with Alclad Lacquer Gloss black undercoat and dark/light aluminium top coat. Seemed to look just fine with this simple finish so I left it at that for the moment Box Art The kit is otherwise not bad, and only the main body join needed filler. HK1 Internals HK2 HK3 HK4 HK5 HK6 HK7 HK8 HK9
  14. USS Pegasus PHM-1 HobbyBoss 1:200 The Pegasus-class hydrofoils were a series of fast attack patrol boats employed by the U.S. Navy. They were in service from 1977 through 1993. These hydrofoils carried the designation "PHM" for "Patrol, Hydrofoil, Missile." The Pegasus class vessels were originally intended for NATO operations in the North Sea and Baltic Sea. Subsequently, participation by other NATO navies, including Germany and Italy, ceased and the U.S. Navy proceeded to procure six PHMs, which were highly successful in conducting coastal operations, such as anti-drug patrols and coastal patrol, in the Caribbean basin. The boats were armed with up to eight harpoon missiles, and an Oto Melara 76mm gun Whilst all the class were very similar, the Pegasus was actually built several years before the rest had was completed with a different fire control system, along with several other minor differences. All six vessels were constructed by Boeing, in Seattle at the Renton plant and were stationed at NAS Key West. The ships were retired because they were not judged cost effective for their mission in a Navy with primarily offensive missions rather than coastal patrol. USS Aries PHM-5 Hydrofoil Memorial, Inc. obtained Aries for rehabilitation as a memorial located on the Grand River in Brunswick, Missouri. All other PHMs in the class have been scrapped, except for Gemini, which was converted into a yacht and later scrapped. The Model Another kit that wasn’t expected, and certainly not in 1:200 scale. Having built the White Ensign Models 1:350 kit I had a feeling that this wasn’t going to be a large model, even in this scale, and I was right, with the overall length of just over 203mm and a width of just over 71mm. The dramatic boxart shows the boat at sea firing off a Harpoon missile. Inside there are six sprues, a single piece hull, single piece deck and two separate superstructure parts in grey styrene a sheet of etched brass and a small decal sheet. Despite its size, the mouldings are all really well produced. There is no sign of flash or other imperfections, although there are quite a few moulding pips, particularly on the small parts. As such, some care will need to be taken when parting from the runners and parts. Many of the structural parts for the Harpoon launchers and radar dome support are made entirely of PE, so you will need to be conversant with working with this medium and have a folding tool to hand. Construction begins with the assembly of the front foil, with the upright being glued to the foil itself. The assembly is then slipped into the slot in the bow, a shaft is then slid through the hull in the upright section and locked in place in the trunnions moulded within the hull. The single piece deck is then glued into place. Rear foils are made up from a single piece foil, and two, two piece uprights. The assembly is then clicked into place to the rear of the hull and you have the option of having them in the lowered or raised position by fitting the extended or retracted actuators. The bow foil doors are then glued into place with the foil either retracted or lowered. The two rudders are then attached, along with the two, two piece water jets. The bridge is then glued to the front of the superstructure, and is fitted with a set of seven wiper motors as well as PE wipers for each of the bridge screens. The superstructure is then fitted with PE intake screens, handrails, along with plastic parts such as life rings, life belts, bullhorn, and several other items that I cannot identify. On the top deck of the superstructure there are several stowage boxes, electrical boxes, and ventilators attached. There is also a liferaft, bridge access door and on the rear bulkhead a vertical ladder, access door and exhaust tube. Back to the top deck, five mushroom vents, a short whip aerial, another bullhorn, more storage boxes and two four piece, six barrelled decoy launchers are glued into their respective positions. The superstructure assembly is the glued to the main deck, and the eleven piece mainmast is assembled and glued into position. The four piece radar dome is attached to a three legged PE support structure, which will need some careful bending, before also being glued into position on the superstructure, along with a tall whip aerial, inclined ladder and klaxon. The foredeck is then fitted out with hatches, jackstaff, bitts, cleats, anchor and storage boxes. The turret mounting the 76mm gun is made up from six parts before being attached to the foredeck mounting plate. Two, three piece cable reels are then assembled and glued into position just in front of the bridge, one per side of the deck. The quarterdeck is similarly fitted out, with bitts, cleats, hatches, a cable reel, mushroom vents and ensign staff. The two PE Harpoon launcher frames are folded to shape and glued into position. The modeller has the choice of fitting any number of launch tubes to the frames, from one to four. On the port side of the quarterdeck there is a nine piece unit, which looks like a smoke generator of some sort. The last part fitted to the quarterdeck is the three piece funnel. Adding the PE ships railings all around the main deck and upper deck completes the build. Decals The small decal sheet provides the ships number for the bow, national markings for the aircraft and a pair of Jacks and Ensigns, in two different styles, and several small markings for the deck. They are well printed, in register and look to have pretty good opacity. Conclusion It’s great to this kit being released, as it’s quite a fun thing to have in the collection. Ok, it was one of those cul-de-sac designs, and not as important as some recent releases, but it is still interesting, nonetheless. It would have been nice to have alternative parts and decals for the rest of the class, but I guess we can’t have everything. From what I’ve been able to check in the relevant books the kits does appear to be pretty accurate too. Review sample courtesy of
  15. I'm off. A little delayed with the post but as I type the kits are washed and dried and ready for the actual build. Start time 11:40 CET / 09:40Z.
  16. This year I made a resolution to complete as many models as I can from my pile of started kits and after much thinking I selected this oldie: Probably I purchased it in the late 90s, it's one of the last kits released by Pegasus, and after an immediate start it was put back in the box for better days. Actually I don't even remember why I lost my enthusiasm and didn't get beyond cleaning the plastic parts and applying Squadron White Putty here and there... On checking the fit I may have found one of the reasons: The fuselage has many asimmetries but I won't fix anything: it's not worth the effort considering the better shape of the later Valom kit. That's all for now. Bye Fabio
  17. Finally completed my Pegasus Bristol M1C in 1/72, a lot more work than I was expecting. believe it or not it's harder to rig a mono plane than a bi-plane simply because there is no second wing to pass the cable through and tension it before gluing. consequently the rigging is stretched sprue. The kit propeller and hub were scrapped and replaced wit a spare from a Bristol Scout, the original was simply too big. Back to WW2 stuff for the next build.
  18. Camouflage Netting (Green or Tan) Pegasus Hobbies Armour modellers occasionally need a source of camouflage netting that looks good enough in scale to pass for the real thing. There are a number of DIY techniques, but they can be time-consuming, especially for the novice. These packs from Pegasus give you the basics that you need to begin, and they have been pre-dyed in either green or tan to take away one of the most messy stages of the task. Each pack comes with approximately 30cm x 40cm of the cloth, folded up to the size of the bag, and they have differing texture to the threads. The tan pack is more or less an evenly-spaced mesh, while the green is more uneven, giving a tiger-stripe look. Both are quite transparent when used in a single layer, but this increases with layering, as you will hopefully be able to tell from the pictures. They could be used with 1:48 and above, but at smaller scales the threads may start to look overscale. You can add your own embellishments in the shape of tie-on squares or glued on mixed herbs for additional texture, and the colour can be varied further by airbrushing additional colour onto it. Conclusion A good starting point for any camouflage netting if you're looking to add some to the stowage of a vehicle or diorama. Watch out for stray fibres though! Recommended. Review sample courtesy of UK Distributors for
  19. Just starting a new project after struggling through a Frogspawn Whitley! Decided on a Bristol M1C from Pegasus, no glazing and hardly any rigging, how hard can it be? To make life a little more difficult (and 'cos I like it) I'm going with the stripey colour scheme, lots of masking fun ahead. There's lots of debate about what colour the stripes are, any one interested can follow it here http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57379 I'm going for black and white. The kit is pretty basic so the first thing will be an interior, but restricted to the bit you can actually see through the small cockpit opening.
  20. Greetings SF & RS BMers, I have returned from SMW2015 with a large haul and found this in there so what better way to reduce the stash than a quickie build and practise my Alclad skills. First off, ye actual box Sprue singular, note clever tabs to protect needle sharp nose and very, very shiny plastic. Portholes in with odourless cyano, injector pin marks filled with cyano/dental resin powder All sealed up but with a prominent seam that I'm trying out this black cyano also scored at SMW. Allegedly it dries rock hard and sands/scribes well- could be an alternative to the voodoo cyano/resin powder mix I use. Well that was an entertaining one and half hours, bed time now and lets see how my flex-i-files cope with the new filler tomorrow. Cheers Anil the Space Newbie
  21. Spinosaurus 1:24 Pegasus Models The Spinosaurus is a relatively newly discovered theropod dinosaur, and full grown it is well-deserving of the title "behemoth", because it dwarfed the mighty T-rex, although they never met because of time and distance (so sad). The Spinosaurus lived almost 100 million years ago, and was found mostly around the north of what is now Africa, but had relatives in the lump of rock that became Great Britain in the shape of the less impressive Baryonyx. As well as being huge, with a skull alone approaching two metres in length, it also had a distinctive row of spines growing from its back vertebrae that formed a sail with a covering of flesh in between the spines. These spines were two metres high at the highest point, and contributed to the creature's name when enough was known about it. As more examples of fossils have been found, estimates of its size have risen to the current figure of around fifteen metres from nose to tail, and up to twenty one tonnes in weight. Close examination of it has indicated that it lived near and in water for most of its life, implying that it would have been a strong swimmer, as depicted in Jurassic Park III, when it crept up on the barge carrying our heroes and made a bit of a mess of it. A reconstructed skeleton has been posed in the swimming position, and it would have been a truly terrifying sight for its prey. "Spinosaurus swimming" by Mike Bowler from Canada - Spinosaurus. Licensed under CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons - Conclusion When put together this kit is a very impressive looking item, and once painted should look stunning if done with care and attention. My only concern is that the nostrils are a little far down the rostrum when compared to skeletal examples, but they are small enough to be moved if this bothers you, and the vinyl is tough, so workable. The parts go together well, and with the use of CA or epoxy resin you'll soon have it built up, and be able to move onto the biggest task, which is painting. it isn't a cheap kit, but if you were to buy one ready-made and pre-painted, you'd be looking at multiples of the purchase price for one of such quality. Very highly recommended. Available from all good model shops. Review sample courtesy of UK Distributors for
  22. I was putting off starting this build as I thought I would be daunted with it. Turns out I should not have worried. Never Give Up! Never Surrender! Not too many bits Huge locating pins Quick assembly Cool stand So it turns out this is more of a snap together kit, which is great as I currently have a huge bought of AMS happening with my other builds. I hit some parts with paint so I don't have to worry about too much masking and started to install some of the clear parts So the fit is pretty good ( for a snap fit). I will have to attend to a few seams with putty. The build should progress fairly quickly, the longest part will be the sanding and painting I think.
  23. Hello lads, I'm new to this forum and this is my first model build ever, I hope you like it. As a newbie, any suggestion or comment will be gladly received.
  24. Hi all, First time with a WIP in this section. Apologies for the title - WOTW purists will probably wonder why I've used the Martian warcry referred to in the original book and the 1970's musical version. Think it's probably that the album music is currently acting as a mindworm as I work on this.... It's the Pegasus 1/144th scale rendition of the start of the battle in the 1953 film version. Picked this up at SMW last weekend and thought I'd do it as a quick build, there aren't many parts to this - each Sherman comprises 4 parts, each War Machine 6 parts. Tanks painted OD, Martian laser blast is a variety of Tamiya clear colours, the War Machines are copper plated already. Any suggestions to improve the blast? Considered lighting effects but can't split the machines without damaging the finish... More to follow....
  25. Hello fellow Britmodellers, This is going to be my next project while I'm waiting for the weather to improve so I can start painting my P40B project. It has been sitting in the stash trunk for more than 20 years. Yes the trunk is quite full with mostly vacforms WWI scary things It is a shame it never flew I think it is a fantastic looking aircraft. I will start by cleaning up the plentiful flash and finding some info. Stephen
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