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  1. Hi Icabod, the Halifax is average to poor I think, so many compromises compare to say: HK Lancaster. Some parts were way off shape, but had to be as there was no alternative.Some bits: cockpit canopy etc, are messy and poor. It was big, and I did it for a museum who have a glass cabinet to keep the dust off. All models there are / will be under Glass. The NT RAF Defford museum, near Croome , Worcestershire , is now filling up with equipment relevant to the work there and at RSRE Malvern : H2S , Gee, Oboe, Rebecca etc. Though only very small place, the exhibits apply to us modellers. Croome, near High Green, Worcester, Worcestershire, WR8 9DW https://deffordairfieldheritagegroup.wordpress.com/ https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/croome/features/raf-defford M
  2. Looks superb! I remember those days of the Chocolate Hercs, now all gone to the great scrapyard in the sky: Defence (Defence?) cuts, more cuts... tM
  3. Hello All!, To test making diorama bases for 1/48 WW2 aircraft, I got a 4ft square foam board (,the art board with paper covering) , rolled matt black emulsion over it, it(dried in seconds in our heatwave) 2 coats, then some matt grey rolled on emulsion, then used a felt tip to make the tar fill in between ash-felt / and or concrete blocks , pressing the large Pentel round in to make a slight depression, then rubbing a lot of pastels all over, in very small steps, vacuumed off the access, looks OK. I did the block outlines, large rectangles, all different shapes, plus tar crack repairs the same way, as hardstandings tend to crack. I did the whole thing slightly tapered off the the distance for forced projection. then added a few railway model bushed at the edge. Behind is another 4ft white foam board, out of focus for the sky. Added a few Tamiya 1/48 vehicles, toolboxes etc. plus ICM 1/48 RAF air-persons and: Photographed using a old NIKON D70 and NIKON 35-105 MACRO MANUAL or Tamron 18-200, AUTO + tripod, at minimum aperture and about 1/20 testing, + some, minus some secs to make it look as would be in the era: blurred, under exposed, b/w etc. Added a few Tamiya 1/48 vehicles, toolboxes etc. plus ICM 1/48 RAF air-persons, the 1/56 truck behind that, then 1/72 Wellington III just behind that. I think I got away with it beginners luck. Also did a 1/48 Mozzie and Contrail/Sangar 1/48 Halixax 2 series 1 : Mozzie: Dark, as at night time. Picture taken at what would have been eye-level on the ground from an ERK with a camera. Halifax: this was the biggie, at least 100 hours work: And again, same technique and the Sangar 1/48 Halifax completed as V9977 This one shows all my modeling faults making a vac-u-form: needs blurring I think n:
  4. Hello Icabod! Have completed the Halifax, and it is now in the Defford museum. It was a bag of compromises, I will put pictures on my website and link them here, and list the URL's so you can cut / paste and try that. The finished model is average to poor, I compromised a lot, tried making a better canopy, but ended up using the kit one. made the two side blisters ok though. Used a load of Milliput fine to fit the engines nacelles to the wings but it worked out well , used the kit white metal undercarriage legs plus scratch building the angled supports, brake pipes, scraper etc, that looks really good. I used Humbrol and Revell enamels, for the camouflage, sprayed Humbrol matt varnish enamel all over: (60% thinner, 40% paint), I corrected many spray errors with Micro-Mesh and water. I masked and painted the wing roundels, the transfers supplied had a too bright blue/red. , Finally, I used W&N pastels to dirty it up a bit, lead petrol markings over wing etc, , The fuselage yellow/blue/white/red roundels were Xtradecal X032-48 roundel sheet, 49inch ones. Fin flashes from same sheet. Ventura Decals V4892 for the Serial numbers. Will link pictures here and start a 'Show Your Finished Model " on this website M
  5. Hello Icebod, you build looks really good,! I had the same twist problem on the fuselage, and only noticed after fitting the wings, so I tried to compensate with the horizontal stabilizers, but it seems the soft white plastic is indeed sensitive to heat ,and it has gradually twisted back, also port inboard is slightly out of alignment. so it is compromise. Have made the teardrop blisters, engineers station glazing and now moulding a new canopy from .5mm clear acrylic. I built up the front fuselage to do a best fit, but it is tricky to get the right mould shape. Using the traditional cooker grill to heat at 250C. now on the second mould shape , the vertical sides will have to be cut from clear panel, as the mould drop stretches the material too much. I did a basic cockpit detail and pained the cockpit green, plus matt black panels, instruments etc. Scrap-built the undercarriage rear retraction mechanism, instead of using the too thick kit metal parts. I have bought brass .303 gun barrels, and scrap-made the internals of the turrets, Cant find any detailed pictures of this so doing a best guess. Front glazing fits fairly well after fitting bulkheads to hold the fuselage in the same shape. No bombsight fitting, as I expect the TRE plane was stripped of bombing gear. Sorry you cant see my pictures, they are now on a https server, so should be readable. Your panel work looks really good, I tried to scribe as best I can to recover panel lines, and it not too bad, but the wings are miss-alingned top-bottom, so elevators don't match top-bottom. I use enamels, so Humbrol / Revell tins, needing about 4 for all the matt black, plus a matt varnish on top, I plan to mark and mask the top roundels, as transfers will be huge. I am doing V9977 for RAF Defford museum, which has: (according to picture), No mid-upper turret, Short wings 4 blade props, early exhausts no stone guards for carb inlets. original two mast arial, side teardrop blisters. three fuel dump pipes per wing, Navigators dome, Original undercarriage. 4 gun rear and 2 gun turret. poor fitting bomb doors. (just didnt clean this up on the fuselage). If you come across other pictures of V9977 please put on this site. These bombers were left outside and initially flew from grass airfields, so got covered in mud etc, the giant tyres had mud strips and flung mud all over the rear of the plane. I will put more pictures on the aerver. M
  6. Hello Again Icabod I found I needed to spend a LOT of effort sanding the trailing edges thin thin thin, as close to thinnest as possible , flat on a sanding sheet, 180 grade, then work to 400, its still too thick but.... impossible to make realistic. NOTE: The fuselage shapes to align the wings give different incidence, so the trailing edges to not align, used polystyrene glue here, it's best to compromise to get get best alignment. or it doesnt look correct, I put in one mainspar, didn't realise it might distort after build. wing top/bottom fit as not too bad after all the massive amount of trimming. I think the AERODATA drawings fit the pictures better than Sangar transparancies. : the Sanger rear turret is wrong, but as good as I can get. WIll show pics of engine cowl fitting, added extra internal bulkheads and thickened the material edges and I had to do massive amounts of MILLIPUT to get top fairing and engines shape ready to sand. but it DOES work if you get a s near as possible alignment fitting before all the Milliput : which can be shaped while wet to reduce sanding. the sanding might go through the parts, hence thickening on the inside to allow the shape to fit. Still, massive ammout of sanding , Much more work than all the model work I have done in total. NOTE: the best modelling tool I bought recently was a battery-hand DYSON. I can sand sand, covered in the suff. all over the bench and model, then ssssssssssuck, ALL CLEAN. Also do a lot of vac before any painting, made a vast improvement in finish. DYSONS do have a filter, best to have a supply and change frequently, well worth the cost. The have much more suck than any other vac. I think your second build is looking better than mine. M
  7. Hello again Icabod! Please you can see the pictures, I have mounted the engine nacelles, which were a no-fit, so I used lots of supporting plastic strips and superglue to jig in position , aligned as best possible vertical engine mounts with the wing roots at 90 degrees to the fuselage. then when set, great gobs of Milliput, wetted and smoothed and filed/sanded when dry, including the top fairing, paired down to almost nothing to fit. looks OK. Contacted Sanger maker, owner, Gerald , who uses the moulds from Contrail, for the two little side blister transparencies = they don't supply them, so I will have to make from clear sheet, (make a former: tin box, fretted 1ply , mould and gas grill.) Can make more if you want to include them. (mine is to be V9977) which crashed with 11 people on board including Prof Blumlien at Welsh Bicknor, just down the road from here in Gloucester, in 1942. Hence early Merlins, fuel dump pipes, balloon cable cutters, no top turret, early fins and front turret. You have done internals similar to mine, except I have only done the visible front part, blocked off aft of the flight engineer. I noticed. slight twtist in the fuselage on mine I cannot fix, so I will assemble the wings straight then take that as a guide for the tailplane alignment. I have notices that the soft plastic buckles over time, after being cut off the sheet. So what is straight may not be later... M
  8. Here is the Sanger turret worked on with added back`: blurred as my iphone8 wont focus anymore M
  9. Helo Again! I think the Elvington Museum is making up parts or using bits that are not as accurate as the AIRDATA book, the book seems more accurate than their assembly of bits. The turret pictures in the book page 126 shows the rounded shape, I have to make do with the Sanger turret, The front turret is a bit too wide, of two parts, but not a bad rendering. Iv'e just completed the engines, using the kit parts. you are a bit ahead of me at moment. I'm leaving the cockpit canopy to later, the Undercarrige seems good enough. The early straight wing tips need sanding very thin to fit properly, sand and re-check many times to make sure its thin enough, I use a lot of superglue on the kit, but used poly glue there, plus masses of Milliput. Plese let me kno you can see picture: as sometimes this doesn't woek
  10. Hello Icabod, you build is looking good. I managed to note you had to increase the fuselage width to make the canopy fit , All I did was add a 3mm tapering strip in front of the windscreen, it tapers down to the front turret , ad viola! the canopy fits better. I take it you still had to use masses of filler around the canopy front, as I have a big gap around it too, I'm making the Mk II with front turret, and that is a real b*****d, the front turret is better than the rear one by only a bit. I have to make do with it. The bomb-aimer glazing is a different curve from the fuselage, so I have made another bulkhead of the same shape to force the fuselage shape to the same curve with some superglue and clamps. I superglued the fuselage top, rear and part underside, let it se, so I could fiddle with the front and superglue that seperately with the bulkhead holding the shape as it dries. The flight engineers position behind the pilot has a transparency over it, so I plan to bend an acrylic sheet to this shape and not use the kit bit. The Aerodatea plans show a thick canopy frame over the armoured bulkhead behind the pilot, the plans in Wings of Fame Journal Vol 8 page 12 show a thin one, but pictures on page 118 show a thick frame . The two skylights, I plan to just paint gloss black after finishing. Could you describe how you make the canopy framing material ? looks great. I have re-scribed the wing detail. The nacelles... I cut them out as per instructions, and can re-cut and jig them to the right flight angle, then will glob lots of milliput and shape while still wet. I made 4 blade airscrews by adding a 4th made of plastic card, - It is to be a Mk II without mid-upper, turret. I have a Airfix 1/48 Defiant turret glazing if you need this. I would estimate there is another two months work to this before I can even consider painting. Please continue describing your work, it is very, very helpful. i have problems posting pictures that can be seen by all on this site, but can describe other work as i do it. M
  11. Hello Icabod, just noticed you have included a diagonal frame to the rear part of the canopy, over the flight engineers. position. This is not a frame on the canopy, but an internal strut from the armoured bulkhead back to the fuselage side on the inside. Impressed how you enlarged the fuselage to get the canopy to fit. Don know yet how I'm going to do that bit. M
  12. Hello everyone, I am the modeller attempting to make a Halifax II Sr 1 (Merlin) for the Defford museum!! Saw the completed MK III 's at Churchdown IPMS.... Martin.... Hi everyone. Working on the Sanger model, it requires a great deal of work compared to an injection kit!. Please! anybody know of one!? Massively impressed with the build here. I realise I will have to accept an ok-ish build as the Sanger kit is not perfect, but all there is in 1/48. The 1/72 Halifax II by Revell has weird engine shapes. Have a spare Boulton-Paul Defiant turret if the builder here wants to use that, V9977 had no mid-upper. Added several bulkheads to the fuselage out of foam board to make a good fit. V9977 had Merlin engines and are using the Sanger kit engines, and I have noted the engine mounting angle compared with the drawings, they are slightly pitched up compared to the chord at that station . they have a small cowling opening for the oil-cooler at the front, and the Aerodata book on the Halifax shows this best. I did the opening before I got the book and made them too small. Milliput was used to make cooling inlet a bit better. A lot of cutting/ Milliput needed to fit the nacelles the correct angle. .... I have done the armoured bulkhead for the pilot as a strong part to pull the canopy into shape, and are also using another bulkhead shape to pull the front fuselage shape to match the bomb-aimers window under the front turret. Not studied the turret shapes yet. Did a scratchbuild of the cockpit internals. The side windows were made of .5mm acrylic, made a transition fit then white glued in place. It will take perhaps another three months to get an acceptable model. To post pictures here I have to put them on my web pages and make links, they don't seem to be viewable by everybody. Have done a Defiant, Blenhiem and Mosquito II for the museum, and have a 1/24 Airfix Mozzie to do next. Any advice on building the HALIFAX would be most welcome DONE SO FAR: fuselage internals, wings, with a spar , engines and nacelles, cutting off the transparencies to fit, tailplane, undercarriage and wheels. Made 4-bladed props from the kit 3-bladed spinner and mountings. - fitted brass boss through a brass tube in the engine. M
  13. Most impressive, wow. I'm making the same kit, without the internals. I have looked at frame-by frame stills from the movie, and much of the external detailing is not from the movie 2001, but some form 2010 and from other models. I am cutting off the bits that are wrong,: the radial detailing behind the habitat sphere is the worst, some of the detailing around the same sphere, adding some to each of the 30+ module backs, the Mobieus repetition of the top an bottom of the engine block can't be right. The 2001 Discovery was not weathered, which Mobeius comment correctly, but a lot, hundreds of the tiny panels are slightly different off-grey blues and light greys. I thing a light grey-blue overall is a good description of the final effect on the screen. I notice you have corrected many of these faults . M. Oldmodeler
  14. Working on the Pod and Discovery, and HAL. Discovery, Looking at the small details, the Mobeius Model Discovery is not from the 2001 Discovery, all the essential parts are about right, but the small detailing is partly from the movie and partly from 2010 and some details are not from any movie stills or the pictures in Simon Atkinson's book. The 2001 Discovery ship went through several iterations and builds , and had 3 different models in 2001, and three in 2010 , according to Simon and the 2010 movie tie-in book: 2010 'The Year We Make Contact" magazine from TARGET p.48/9 shows the rear of the habitat sphere as different from the 2001 Discovery. so I am doing a compromise between the three. The 2010 version is crude in comparison, but the quick, sloppy 35mm camerawork hides a lot. The space pod seems pretty good in comparison. and when all six panels are lit, it detracts from my clumsy model making. The HAL panel is now done, with the correct apertures for the screens, square cut outs with rounded corners, then a square with bevelled edge. I'm not sure why some cannot see the pictures, unless it is the non-https restriction.
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