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Showing results for tags 'paint'.
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Hi guys, What method do you use for holding/storing your models while they're drying? At the moment I'm using a black plastic base which has rows of holes in it. It's designed to be used with alligator clips mounted on metal sticks which you then poke into the holes, but A) the clips that came with it are way too strong and would warp/snap any part I'd hold with them, and B ) The holes in the base seem to have some sort of obstruction in them meaning the metal sticks need to be pushed really hard for them to sit in place, so I've resorted to just using wooden toothpicks poked into the holes to balance the model on, which is a bit too wobbly and hardly secure enough for my liking. Also, depending on the paint finish, the toothpicks actually end up sticking to the model a lot of the time. All drying in my flat is kept in a very handy seed propagator (think; mini greenhouse) due to the presence of a fuzz ball of a cat, so I'm looking for a method which would fit inside this propagator (I would say it's about 30cm high, 50cm long and 30cm wide). Could you show me your methods or tell me about products I could look into, please? 👨🔬
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I've found lots of posts on various sites recommending what thinners to use with what paints either off the shelf or home brew, but it there a consolidated list or matrix anywhere that I can reference?
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Hi Everyone, I'm wondering how I should paint the following piece(s), it's the cockpit window for a Spitfire. How do people generally tackle this?
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I have decided to think about an alternative to my beloved Mr Color and Mr Paint and in a moment of patriotic zeal ,I thought about using locally produced paint, especially having been wowed by Stew Dapples sex god apron outfit at Telford, it's time for some Colourcoats. Now I am familiar with its previous incarnation through White Ensign and have no qualms about the quality and colour matches which from what I can see are pretty exacting. My interest is in the speed of drying, I'm spoilt as Mr Color/Paint +Mr Leveling dries rock hard and Tamiya tape ready in 30-120 minutes on average in my temperature and humidity controlled spray room. What kind of drying times are folk getting in the real world, especially with their dedicated thinner? Has anyone tried it with the terabine type drying accelerators like Rustins for instance? Some real world experiences and links to some results/build threads would be good. To give a benchmark , in my latest build below, I did a 1/72 BoB 109E by spraying RLM 65 at lunchtime , masking the underside and RLM 02 at 16:00 and then applying splinter tamiya/oramask 810 masks and doing the RLM 71 two hours later and then finally at 21:00 gloss coating it, no tape lift whatsoever. Ideally thats the kind of speed I'd be looking to replicate. Again it's no big deal as I'm happy with my paints but unhappy that its made many thousands ( or even hundreds) of miles away and shipped all the way here with all the harm that entails. that and supporting small local producers. Anil
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Hi Everyone! I just started on my first model, and there's a few general (non technical, it's friday let's keep it simple) questions about painting and glueing. I'm trying to make subassemblies as to not be working with to many parts at the same time, but when I mixed paint, I felt like it was better to immediately paint all the parts that need that specific blend of colours, how do you go about this? Is it okay to paint the majority of the parts first, and then only start glueing? I'm afraid if I keep some for later, I won't be able to reach them, I won't forget to scratch of paint on the parts that will be glued of course, I'm building the Spitfire, and thinking of painting the interior before glueing, and then the exterior afterwards. Any tips or a nudge in the right direction is welcome! Thanks
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I wonder if anyone here has recommendations for the blue paint for R2 D2? I've picked up a couple of the retrokit R2 bananaas kits, and looking at my blue paints I'm struggling to find one that is a close match to the blue colour on R" D2. I've seen a Vallejo Air Ultramarine Blue colour used in a WIP here, but my best option for paints locally seems to be Citadel paints, and one of Caledor Sky, Macragge Blue, or templeguard blue. Failing that, the best paint I seem to have is Tamiya clear blue over white primer and tamiya flat white. I've also got the option of getting artist's paints from the range.
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Just a quick question that I'm sure someone here has a good idea on. I've picked up a couple of the retrofit R2 -Bananaas kits, which are simply R2D2 as a minion, and I'm wondering is there a preferred preparation for painting resin? Other than a wash in mildly soapy warm water, is there something else that would help primer/paint adherence? I intend to use halfords white primer on it and Tamiya white acrylic paint.
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At telford I picked up a copper state models service man on tea break 1:35 scale. The figure has goggles round his cap above the peak. How would you recommend I paint it to show the glass over the material of the cap. I use acrylics. Thanks
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Hi just ordered myself some custom mass effect models of Shepard and Miranda Lawson thing is I dont know where to start paint wise. as you can see from the pictures i need them colours I know I sound like "tell me the colours" but I aint got a clue when it comes to paints. other thing is they are big models and I am wanting them to have detailed faces I know this sounds like a stupid question again but does anyone know of a set or something to use I mean there are ones out there just they are meant for men and stuff what I mean is I wanted them to look like a woman like the pictures . ALSO hair colours as well plz I really dont have a clue hope you can understand poor writing skills cheers
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Mr.Hobby's "Mr.Finishing Surfacer 1500 Gray", is a new primer to me... I sprayed the 1:48 F-15e with it, thinned down with cellulose thinner, and.. firstly it kept getting stuck in the airbrush at 15/20 psi or barely coming out, so i had to turn the pressure up to around... 30 psi! The result was horrible. the finish is like tarmac. when i touch it i keep getting dust on my fingers and it feels like sand paper! (see images) I'm not too sure what went wrong here... 1. Could it be i didn't thin it enough? if so what are the percentages? 50/50? 2. Too hot? still hot over here. around 30 degrees. but garage didnt feel too hot as august. 3. What psi am i supposed to spray this primer at? 4. Am i supposed to spray it on WET? or dust it on first? Funnily enough, on the small parts like air-brake, pods and missile racks went on beautifully. I sprayed these slow and in heavy wet lines.
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Hello friends havent posted in quite a while but need some advice. Now that Testors has for the most part eliminated their MM line of enamels I find myself in the land of acrylics, where my problem has been the fast drying time for an old man who paints slow and deliberate. Anyway, my question is what Tamiya color is closest to MM dark glossy blue, or 15042 if I remember the FS number correctly. I want to do a nice dark glossy sea blue on a circa 1945 Hellcat. If I have to start using acrylics then a basic spray job is in order. Are acrylics ever glossy, or is a gloss coat necessary? I know that the vast majority of you guys have been using acrylics for years but this old dog needs to learn a few new tricks out of pure necessity. Well, any help would be much appreciated. Cheers SA
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I know that buying empty containers for paint etc can be rather absurdly expensive, but if you know anyone who uses an e-cigarette ask them if you can have their empty e-liquid bottles. Many of them are basically the same dropper style that Vallejo uses, making them great for paints that you airbrush with, they just need to be cleaned out well. The fancier ones are a little bottle with an eye dropper built into them, which I find are less useful but I use one of them for enamel thinner. I'm personally a vape... ist? And I have found many different uses for these things, so if you know anyone who does it could provide you with a gold mine of useful containers.
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Hi guys. I have been asked by a friend to make a model of his Mini Cooper. As a base I will be using the Revell kit as it has the correct wheels, I would not know how to scratch those. I know that the interior will need a bit of work and his car has a sun roof, but I think I can manage that. However, my first hurdle is the colour. The vin plate shows the colour as 862/5 Indy Blue. Looking in my local car shop, and also online at Halfords, i can find no colour match in a spray. Generally I use acrylic paints. Has anyone got an idea for the best colour match? much appreciated. -
I've been given a load of Tamiya paints, obviously quite old as a few show Richard Kohnstam Ltd as the supplier... Some of them are coded PC "for polycarbonate". Tamiya's website says that these paints should never be used on plastic, that they are designed only for use on the inside of polycarbonate body shells. Does anyone know for sure if this is really the case and what happens if sprayed on normal plastic? Is there some sort of reaction. If they are useless on polystyrene then I'll move them on to whoever wants them.
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Hi. I am brush painting humbrol satin paints and despite mixing them endlessly they always seem very grainy needing lots of coats. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?
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Hello a quick question anyone know if the Luftwaffe had their aircraft painted with a primer before the camouflage colors ? More Specifically Junkers aicraft ? Dennis
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Hello I dont know if this is the right place but, For the Kinetic Model Kits 1/48 F/A-18A/B/C/D Blue Angels 2017 Hornet, Where can I get FS 15050 Blue Angels Blue and FS 13655 Blue Angels yellow paint? And if not what is the most equal paint to those colours that deliver to Guernsey? Thanks Liam
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PANTHER-G Colors For Interior & Exterior AMMO of Mig Jiménez AMMO continue issuing new paint sets at a rate of knots, and are garnering some fans with the quality of the paint. Here AMMO have teamed up with Rye Field Models to produce a paint set for their new Panther-G which brings you all the colours you need for the Interior and exterior of the kit, including the metallics for the ammo, and washable white camo if you wish to use it. Of course these can be used on any Panther kit, and other WWII German vehicles. All paints come in the standard Ammo bottle, the yellow cap signifying there is a paint mixing ball in the bottle. The colours in the box are as follows: A.MIG-002 OLIVGRÜN OPT.2 RAL 6003, A.MIG-003 RESEDAGRÜN RAL 6011, A.MIG-011 DUNKELGELB AUS´44 DGI- RAL 7028, A.MIG-012 DUNKELGELB AUS´44 DG III-RAL 7028, A.MIG-014 ROTBRAUN RAL 8012, A.MIG-015 SCHOKOBRAUN RAL 8017, A.MIG-017 CREMEWEISS RAL 9001, A.MIG-197 BRASS A.MIG-024 WASHABLE WHITE CAMO, A.MIG-062 BLUE GREY, A.MIG-218 RLM 66 SCHWARTZGRAU, A.MIG-910 GREY HIGH LIGHT This set should be a welcome addition for the Panther AFV modeller, and an addition to anyone's range of colours. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of -
Modern U.S. ARMY (1950/2016) Acrylic paint set. AMMO of Mig Jiménez AMMO continue issuing new paint sets at a rate of knots, and are garnering some fans with the quality of the paint. The set arrives in the standard long cardboard box with a header to facilitate hanging on one of those merry-go-round display stands in shops. Inside is a clear tray that holds six dropper style paint pots neatly in the box, avoiding all the paints spilling out at once in a Donkey-Kong style. The bottles contain 17ml of paint, plus a stainless steel ball bearing for easy mixing of the paint by shaking. The yellow caps are indicative of the new BB equipped sets, which seem to be the norm these days from AMMO. The colours in the box are as follows: A.MIG-046 Matt Black, A.MIG-085 NATO Brown, A.MIG-025 FS33446 (modern desert colour), A.MIG-081 US Olive Drab, A.MIG-082 Interior Light Green, A.MIG-084 NATO Green. These sets should be a welcome addition for the Modern AFV modeller, and an addition to anyone's range of colours. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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Hey all. Bit of a dilemma. A while back I got the JGSDF LAV kit from Tamiya, which prompts you to paint the windows in clear blue. For some reason the Tamiya clear blue, when sprayed, would come out opaque on the clear parts, so after rubbing it off immediately I brush painted it, but I've never been happy with how blue it is, looking less like a tinting. It's been some time since I painted them (still haven't fully assembled the kit), but I'm wondering if there's anything I could do to remove the paint without sacrificing the clarity of the part, and if anyone knows why the clear blue went on opaque when sprayed (but not when brushed). I have access to Tamiya acrylic thinner and Ultimate Airbrush Thinner, if they could be used for removal. Thanks in advance. Gaz
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Hi, I'm looking for ral 5009 azure blue, do you have it in your range, i only know of lifecolour's alternative, thanks
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British Engineering Standard Association (B.E.S.A.) 2D. 103, March 1922 “Air Ministry Nitro Dope Coverings and Identification Colours” In principle all the major paint formulations (PC 10 etc.) should be in there as well as the pigmentation. If possible do you have a copy of this standard or do you know where I could get a copy for research purposes? A scan would be great - send to mechinf(at)netactive.co.za
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What's the general consensus on AK Interactive paints? Not the Real Color line but the dropper bottle ones. Do they behave exactly the same as the Mig Ammo, or are they slightly different? Reason I ask is I'm eyeing their woodland camouflage figure set, but don't want to spend that amount if they're going to be a bit dodgy. I've heard stories about the paints being lumpy or clogging, but this was from a few years ago. I once picked up a few Vallejo paints and they were horrendous. With the Mig Ammo paints I tend to put a few drops of Ultimate Thinners in the cup to improve the flow, and I would reason the same goes for AKI. I watched an official AK video showing their paints in action, but while they worked flawlessly, you do wondered how true it is given that its the company channel. Any clarity on the matter would be appreciated Cheers, Gaz
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I’ve built this over the last couple of days. It has storage for 150 Vallejo paints as well as some other odds and ends. The shelves are angled back so help the paints remain in place. I’m thinking of making a few of them to sell, so have a look and give me your feedback. And this is what it looks like with my paints in place. Manynthanks for looking. Mark
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I have a small problem which the other half might kill me for. 😟 I was working on a model and knocked pretty much all of a pot of humbrol black enamel paint on the cream living room carpet, resulting in a 3 inch stain... I got the most if it up with WD40 and some stain remover but she's still going to notice. 🙈 Anyone got any good tricks?? Pretty please! 🙄
