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Seeking help, perhaps from maritime and/or aircraft modellers: My current project, just commencing, is Karaya's 1/48 Short Crusader Schneider Trophy racer. The aircraft is to be finished predominantly white. But there are whites & there are whites .. ! My research to date is triangulating down to a particular product. References, including technical journals of the time, identify the finish as 'gloss white enamel'; 'Rylard seaplane white'; 'Rylard white undercoat .. [and] white enamel'. I see Rylard is still trading today as a UK manufacturer of ship paints (no reference to seaplanes!). I could pursue them for a sample card of their white, but before hassling them I thought perhaps some britmodeller may already have confirmed an equivalent model paint match? Any assistance much appreciated! g.

I'm just back into modelling after a 2 1/2 year hiatus. I used to use the Ultimate Paint Conversion chart that was available at www.paint4models.com but it doesn't seem to be working. It was really good, but I don't know if it was being maintained. If it is now defunct, what is the best online colour conversion resource? I'm particularly keen on Humbrol to Vallejo, Humbrol to Tamiya and Humbrol to Mr Color. Thanks

Has anyone used loose glitter on paint for custom stuff? I want to give it a try using ulrafine craft glitter. i want a heavy scale metalflake (metallic) without using an actual autobody spraygun. I tried the one the glitter with the gel, but had to severely thin it down and flow it on a test body. It didn't flow evenly, so I figure the loose stuff might be better.

Hi All, I've taken the plunge and have ordered an Airbrush and Compressor. I now have to decide what paint to use while I'm learning to use this new tool. I'd prefer to stick with a single brand to avoid any potential compatibility issues between paints, thinners and cleaners. I'd also prefer a brand that's reasonably readily available in Europe. I'll be spraying in a shed, rather than in the house, and have an extractor so strong smells aren't necessarily a deal breaker. Ease of use for a beginner and ease of clean up are high on my priority list. So what's your recommendation for primers, clear coats and colours? Is Vallejo a solid choice or should I be looking elsewhere?

Hey, I have been modelling for about 7 years now, but have never looked into getting an airbrush. I have quite a few large, American WWII bombers (B-29, B-17 and B-25) which all have a bare metal finish, so I need something to get a smooth paint finish which can cover a wide area in a relatively short amount of time. I am also planning on buying an A-10, AC-130, B-36 and a B-52 (you see the theme running ) I looked online this morning and saw that the best airbrush for beginners would be a Single-Action, Gravity-Fed, Internally-Mixed one. Now, all I need help on is deciding what nozzle size and needle is best for a large area (I don't really need a high precision one I don't think). I also need to know what air compressor and cleaning kit would be best. My budget is £50 (I know its low, but I'm broke and I don't even know if I'll be good with an airbrush xD), and it would be nice if the airbrush came in a set with a compressor and cleaning kit. I also saw both the Revell and Humbrol airbrush sets (Humbrol also do a canned air 'power-pack'), with Revell having an airbrush and a spray gun (what is the difference?). These look quite cheap, so I was wondering about any of you guys' views on them. Thanks ) P.S. I use both enamel and acrylic paints. I guess I need to thin them for airbrushing, so what should I use as a thinner. I'm guessing water for acrylic, then would it be just white spirit or turp for enamel?

Hi all, I am looking for the green colour for soviet wheel hubs. Now i know Hannants do one X628 but my question is does any one else? Does anyone know what an equivalent colour would be? korean

NEW FROM VALLEJO NOW IN STOCK Model Air Paint Sets. VAL71144 - RAF Colours Special Battle Of Britain This set has been developed for painting the RAF fighter aircraft which participated in the major air battle of all times, “The Battle of Britain”, from the beginning in July 1940 to the final phase or “Night Blitz” in May 1941. Model Air set with 8 colours developed on the basis of intensive research and precise colour matching with the Federal Standard 595 and British Standard Colours BS381C colour specifications. The sets include the colours for the air plane profiles and camouflage patterns drawn by Mark Rolfe. With the collaboration of “Pieza a Pieza. Paints Included VAL71323, VAL71404, VAL71324, VAL71057, VAL71302, VAL71126, VAL71009, VAL71305 VAL71145 - RAF Colours Bomber and Training Air Command 1939 - 1945 This set has been developed for painting all the bombers (light, medium and heavy) of the Bomber Air Command of the RAF from 1939 until the end of WWII. This set also includes “Trainer Yellow” which, combined with the other colours or by itself, can be used for most of the training aircraft and prototypes. Model Air set with 8 colours developed on the basis of intensive research and precise colour matching with the Federal Standard 595 and British Standard Colours BS381C colour specifications. The sets include the colours for the air plane profiles and camouflage patterns drawn by Mark Rolfe. With the collaboration of “Pieza a Pieza. Paints Included VAL71323, VAL71302, VAL71324, VAL71305, VAL71057, VAL71126, VAL71307, VAL71078 VAL71146 - RAF Colours SEAC (Air Command South East Asia) 1942 -1945 This set has been developed for the painting of all types of aircraft of the RAF in the SEAC (Air Command South East Asia) based in the British colonies in the Far East. Model Air set with 8 colours developed on the basis of intensive research and precise colour matching with the Federal Standard 595 and British Standard Colours BS381C colour specifications. The sets include the colours for the air plane profiles and camouflage patterns drawn by Mark Rolfe. With the collaboration of “Pieza a Pieza. Paint Included VAL71323, VAL71302, VAL71324, VAL71306, VAL71273, VAL71057, VAL71307, VAL71279 VAL71147 - FAA (Fleet Air Arm) Colours 1939 - 1945 This set has been developed for the painting of the aircraft of the Fleet Air Arm (FAA) of the British fleet, for land-based aircraft as well as for aircraft, British or American, embarked on carriers from 1939 until the end of the War. Model Air set with 8 colours developed on the basis of intensive research and precise colour matching with the Federal Standard 595 and British Standard Colours BS381C colour specifications. The sets include the colours for the air plane profiles and camouflage patterns drawn by Mark Rolfe. With the collaboration of “Pieza a Pieza. Paints Included VAL71110, VAL71407, VAL71309, VAL71302, VAL71405, VAL71057, VAL71406, VAL71279 VAL71148 - RAF Colours Coastal Command 1939 - 1945 This set has been developed for painting the aircraft of the RAF Coastal Command , for land based aircraft as well as for seaplanes, from 1939 until the end of the war. Model Air set with 8 colours developed on the basis of intensive research and precise colour matching with the Federal Standard 595 and British Standard Colours BS381C colour specifications. The sets include the colours for the air plane profiles and camouflage patterns drawn by Mark Rolfe. With the collaboration of “Pieza a Pieza. Paints Included VAL71323, VAL71302, VAL71324, VAL71306, VAL71110, VAL71057, VAL71309, VAL71279 VAL71149 - RAF Day Fighters Pre-War To 1941 This set has been developed for painting the RAF fighter camouflage scheme “Temperate Land” in its different colour combinations from the years before WWII (starting in 1937) and the beginning of the conflict in 1939, with the first battles in Norway, Netherland, France and England, until August 1941. The set also includes the colours for the “Shadow Compensation” colour scheme used in biplanes of all models and deployment. Model Air set with 8 colours developed on the basis of intensive research and precise colour matching with the Federal Standard 595 and British Standard Colours BS381C colour specifications. The sets include the colours for the air plane profiles and camouflage patterns drawn by Mark Rolfe. With the collaboration of “Pieza a Pieza. Paints Included VAL71323, VAL71302, VAL71324, VAL71279, VAL71291, VAL71057, VAL71403, VAL71062 VAL71162 - RAF Colours Day Fighters 1941 - 1945 & P.R.U. This set has been developed for painting the RAF day fighter aircraft from August 1941 until the end of the War, as well as the HF Interceptors (High Fighters). The set also includes the colours for the PRU (Photographic Reconnaissance Unit ) aircraft. Model Air set with 8 colours developed on the basis of intensive research and precise colour matching with the Federal Standard 595 and British Standard Colours BS381C colour specifications. The sets include the colours for the air plane profiles and camouflage patterns drawn by Mark Rolfe. With the collaboration of “Pieza a Pieza. Paints Included VAL71273, VAL71109, VAL71324, VAL71408, VAL71307, VAL71057, VAL71302, VAL71279 VAL71163 - RAF Colours Desert Scheme & M.T.O. 1940 - 1945 This set has been developed for the painting of all types of RAF aircraft with the colour patterns “Tropical Land Scheme”, “Desert Scheme”, “Special Coastal Scheme”, etc. from June 1940 until the end of the War, in North Africa and the Mediterranean theatre. Model Air set with 8 colours developed on the basis of intensive research and precise colour matching with the Federal Standard 595 and British Standard Colours BS381C colour specifications. The sets include the colours for the air plane profiles and camouflage patterns drawn by Mark Rolfe. With the collaboration of “Pieza a Pieza. Paints Included VAL71306, VAL71324, VAL71108, VAL71323, VAL71113, VAL71302, VAL71313, VAL71031. Follow us on Facebook for all the latest news https://www.facebook...eativeModelsLtd Check out the website for all new releases www.creativemodels.co.uk

Hi, I don't have any fancy airbrushes and paint by hand at the moment so wondered if anyone has any experience in painting models by hand and producing decent finishes with a pattern like this one below ? I'm stumped on how to begin but want to have a crack at it as I have the two models below in my stash waiting to be completed. Thanks in advance

Wasn't sure where to chuck this query so mods feel free to move it if you need to. I was reading through someone's thread a few weeks ago that happened to have a very good explanation of how to use kit decals as a guide to make masking templates for painting. I thought this was very useful and intended to note how it was done.....but I didn't......and now I cannot remember who or where the post was! Can anyone offer any advice or suggestions on how to go about this? I'm looking to create templates for the black exhaust areas and fuselage handhold area's on the sides of my Seaking HC.4 rather than using the decals provided in the kit. I'd be very grateful for any assistance with this, I'm sure it's pretty straight forward but me brain won't engage at the moment! Rgds, Eng

Hi folks, I'm part way through building Airfix's 1/72 Hawker Typhoon but I've come a bit unstuck when looking at what the best likeness of paint is for Ocean grey. I always paint in acrylics and whilst Airfix recommend Humbrol 106, I find that they're not the best for airbrushing as they can be a bit 'bitty' and not particularly smooth. I use a lot of Model Air and Revell Aqua so wondered if there's a good equivalent for those or any other brand that anyone can suggest. Really appreciate your help with this one as I would like to get the colour as near as dammit. Kind Regards Kris

Hello . In the midst of waiting for some thinners to arrive to continue my Y-Wing build, my thoughts wandered to an unfinished 1/35 Dragon M1A2 SEP I'd put in the garage. I still have all the parts for it (though it would probably take me a while to discover exactly what I put together and haven't) and I figured this might be a good opportunity to use some of my greater knowledge to fix it up and finish it. Part of that process is to repaint it with sprays, masking it off for the camo scheme. Currently, the main parts are done in tri-colour NATO, which I hand-painted from the jars. I'd like to redo it in the same scheme with spray cans at some point, but I'd also like to try and restart the painting completely by resetting to the bare plastic. The current paint layer is pretty thin so spraying over probably won't make much difference to detailing, but all the same...does anyone know of a plastic-friendly, easily obtainable means of stripping the paint? I've seen some suggesting IPA, but others say its difficult to obtain. Would these methods also fog up clear parts or affect the glue (that's partly degraded in some places, which was a bit of a happy flaw in the end )? Cheers in advance

Hi all. I've just picked up a Tamiya 1/35 M1A2 SEP TUSK II (hurricane of acronyms there ). Was meant to be for Christmas but...I can't wait that long Anyway. I read over on Armorama - specifically this article, http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=50656&page=1- about adding anti-slip surfacing to Abrams kits that lack it. The substance mentioned, Rust-Oleum Terracotta spray, seems to do the job quite well. Homebase apparently stock it, but I wondered if anyone else had tried it. The article is from an American modeller, and while the stuff at Homebase matches the name, it isn't mentioned as being textured in the description, so I wonder if it is exactly the same. If it lacked texture it would obviously be a little pointless Has anyone else used it, either on a model or for its intended purpose? Edit: I've recently spotted some of that Tamiya Tarmac texture paint. Anyone know if that would be suitable anti-slip stuff, or would it be too thick? Cheers, Gaz.

(Udate jan 13th This tank has officially been saved and is now available to view in the diorama 'Lost in France') Hmmmm. Brimming with confidence after my 1st build and diorama for many years, I immediately set about tackling Tamiya's 1/35th Churchill MkVII tank. All was going well. I had the turret, hull, wheels etc all assembled and then airbrushed base coats, oversprayed with dark green. Then I applied the decals. That's when things started going wrong. I used micro set solution. This left a satin sheen on the otherwise pristine finish. No matter, I thought. This will not show after a coat of matt varnish and all the weathering. Only, the matt varnish dried gloss. Now I know that in reality British AFVs painted dark green have tended to have a satin or even gloss finish (I'm thinking of the Saladin and Saracen in particular) so maybe I am being a bit picky, but I just HATE a gloss finish on models. And no amount of cleaning and soaking would get the blooming varnish off! So it looked as though the model was a 'binner'. Being a binner, and with nothing to lose, I wondered if I could scrape the varnish and paint off. A labourious and fiddly task. I did a test scrape, which worked, but to scrape a whole model? I have to confess something now... I am an old-school modeller, having been a school child when I last made models and as such, I still use enamel paints. Soaking an enamel-painted model in thinners doesn't do the plastic any good! So I decided not to bother. I thought some more, and figured that rather than bin it, I could use the Churchill as a piece of diorama scenery.... blow it up and tip it into a water-filled ditch. I could submerge a whole side of the tank in water, and only have to worry about 'fixing' the exposed surface. I could cover the whole thing in dried mud and hide a lot of it with bankside vegetation. So, today, I set about the task and attacked the model with 'dark earth weathering powder' applied in several washes of varying dilution and also applied 'dry' to wet surfaces. This has covered a lot of the 'glossy' patches, but not all. There are areas such as the side skirting and turret sides which still shine horribly (well, at least to my eye they do) More weathering powder will cover this up, I have no doubt, but I will end up with a tank ENTIRELY covered in mud. Still, it's better than nothing. Anyway, I am now wondering what I can do to 'fix' the 'dried mud'. Weathering powder comes off when handled too much, or rubbed with a brush and I'm not sure I want to risk another coat of the so-called matt varnish! Can anyone suggest the best thing to do now, and also what was my mistake in the first place? Using enamels, I've never bothered varnishing my models before. I just used to wet brush and dry brush them once the enamel was properly dry. Was I actually mistaken to varnish this model at all? Pics to follow shortly. Thanks, in anticipation, Badder.

Does anyone have a technique for successfully painting raise lettering in miniature? For example the Brembo on Brembo brake calipers or the Bosch on a Bosch Motronic ECU. I've racked my brain looking for a solution, but just can't think of a way of doing this, it's way too small to mask and I think I'll just screw it up by trying to hand paint.

Hi, I've asked for an airbrush for my birthday, a Badger one of some description (I'm sure I can find it if it matters. I'm planning on using it for some Airfix tank models and a Spitfire. I do have some previous experience with models,although I've only done about 8 before. I was just wondering how much I should thin my paints for use in the airbrush. I'm planning on using Humbrol acrylic paints (they do say that they can be thinned for airbrushing, but they don't say how much I should thin it). Also, would water be sufficient for thinning? If so, any advice on what amount of paint to water I should use would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

For my Scarab... 50s/60s, and often later until the military was sold off to the civi contractors, RAF or RN vehicles were generally blue (obviously save for specials and frontline eg RAFG). Best Revell, Humbrol or Tamiya (possibly Vallejo if stocked)? Would love 100% accuracy but won't be mixing %s so will take a 'very close'. ... VMT. D.

Found this, might be of interest to some members, especially the date and the endorsers: War Office Adopts "Cellon." We understand from the Cellon Co., 49, Queen Victoria Street, that the War Office has adopted Cellon for use on some of the Army aeroplanes. Messrs. S. F. Cody, A. V. Roe, and L. Howard Flanders have all commented favourably upon the dope, which it is claimed tightens the fabric, and makes it proof against air, water, petrol, and oil, and impervious to atmospheric changes. - Flight, 6 July 1912, Page 622.

Hi All, I am very much a novice at airbrushing and learning has been a very steep curve for me. I am very pleased that I started on Tamiya Acrylics as they were/are very forgiving and meant that, for me, very little frustration with clogging and tip drying etc so that I could concentrate on technique. However, moving on, I find Tamiya's range of colours limiting, particularly when it comes to the RLM colours, so finding the Italeri Acrylic Luftwaffe set I was over the moon. After purchasing them my joy soon turned to frustration. I could not get them to airbrush nicely, constantly clogging and spitting, a real disaster! So I researched on the net and low and behold, from the little I found, I was really messing up using alcohol as a thinner (assuming it was the same as the Tamiya paint). So here is what I have learnt over what has been a number of months of pure frustration. 1. Never use alcohol to thin or clean your airbrush (if you clean it with alcohol make sure it is perfectly clean of any alcohol residue, even the smallest trace will cause your tip to block) 2. Some people say that they use windex or other window cleaner to thin the paint. I cannot say that I have had any luck with it and the tip either clogs or the paint dries on it. 3. Use distilled water to thin and clean your airbrush. As I mentioned the slightest contaminant will cause issues. (but you can use them without thinning. It looks really thick but seems to airbrush fine) 4. While not as forgiving as the alcohol based acrylics (and I would recommend absolute beginners to start with the likes of the Tamiya offerings because of this) once mastered they airbrush very nicely with next to no odour and very little aerosoling making them ideal for the home hobbyist. 5. They are not as robust as enamel or alcohol based paints so a good coat of varnish is a must before too much handling. Thanks for taking the time to read this and, of course, this is what worked for me. I hope that this can help others out there that may be struggling with these paints and cannot figure out why. Although I have never used Vallejo paints, I understand they are the same as the Italeri so the above should work equally well with them. Once again thanks for looking and any comments or tips are greatly appreciated. Shane

Brand New Vallejo Paints Coming soon. Including the First Water-Based Metallic Colours Water - Based Aluminium Colours Metal Colours Metal Colour is a range of 18 water- based metallic colours, especially designed for airbrushing. In the development of this new and innovative range, the latest generation of aluminium pigments has been used in a specifically designed formula to produce colours of exceptional resistance and adherence to plastics and metal. Can be applied directly on models without the need for the use of a primer, although in the case of fuselages and components for airplane models it is recommended to first apply a glossy Black Primer to bring forth the unique and special quality of the aluminium finish. Packaging: In 32ml. bottles with a flip-top/dropper closure. 71187 Old and New Wood Effects (by Scratchmod) Model Air This Colour Set with 8 acrylic colours of 17ml bottles includes step by step instructions designed to help the modeller in creating new wood and old grey-silver weathered wood effects. The wood colours can be used for fences, boxes, crates, and tool handles, etc. The old wood colours will help replicate much older and more weathered wood. 72302 Non Death Chaos (by Angel Giraldez) Game Colour New presentation of our set Non Death Chaos, now including detailed step by step painting instructions with photographs by Angel Giraldez. The set contains 8 Game Colours for painting the miniature figures of the ghosts, zombies, monsters, vampires, demons and other malignant creatures of the night. 72865 Face Painting (by Angel Giraldez) Game Air This set contains 8 Game Air airbrush ready colours, 4 of which have been developed especially for this set. Includes detailed step by step painting instructions by Angel Giraldez and photographs showing the process of painting male and female faces. Game Air: 4 New Colours The colours in the range have been selected in collaboration with modellers specialized in fantasy figures and dioramas, and the existing colours in the Game Air range have been taken into particular consideration. The names and shades of the most popular colours of Game Colour have been maintained in Game Air, using the formulation and resins employed for Model Air (see Equivalency Table below). In the colour chart we include a diagram of the most frequent colour combinations: base colour, light and shadow. 71155 US NAVY & USMC Colours from 70’ to present Model Air Model Air colours developed on the basis of intensive research and precise colour matching with the Federal Standard 595 colour specifications. The sets include the colours for the aircraft profiles and camouflage patterns drawn by Mark Rolfe. With the collaboration of “Pieza a Pieza Modelling Workshop”. The set with 8 Model Air colours is developed to paint the colour schemes of most of the US NAVY and USMC aircraft in service since the seventies to the present. 71156 USAF Colours “Grey Schemes” from 70’s to present Model Air Model Air colours developed on the basis of intensive research and precise colour matching with the Federal Standard 595 colour specifications. The sets include the colours for the aircraft profiles and camouflage patterns drawn by Mark Rolfe. With the collaboration of “Pieza a Pieza Modelling Workshop”. The set with 8 Model Air colours, is developed to paint low visibility grey colour schemes (“Hill”, “Mod Eagle”, “Ghost”, etc.) of the USAF aircraft from the seventies to the present. 71164 Luftwaffe Maritime and Tropical Colours Model Air RLM (Reichs Luftfahrt Ministerium) colours with new formulations, revised on the basis of an extensive study and review of the exact shades of the available documentation and most recent bibliographic. The new RLM sets include profiles of the aircraft by Mark Rolfe, showing the various RLM colour combinations used in the camouflage patterns, as well as information about their application and purpose. With the collaboration of the “Pieza a Pieza Modelling Workshop”. This set with 8 Model Air colours is developed for the painting of Luftwaffe camouflage patterns developed for aircraft in maritime deployment (hydroplanes, bombers and reconnaissance, etc.) as well as for the colours used for any type of aircraft operating in the North African campaign and the Mediterranean zone starting in 1941. * These new sets replace earlier versions and include in some cases new colours. 71165 Luftwaffe Pre-War to 1941 Model Air RLM (Reichs Luftfahrt Ministerium) colour with new formulations, revised on the basis of an extensive study and review of the exact shades of the available documentation and most recent bibliographies. The new RLM sets include profiles of the aircraft by Mark Rolfe, showing the various RLM colour combinations used in the camouflage patterns, as well as information about their application and purpose. With the collaboration of the “Pieza a Pieza Modelling Workshop”. This set with 8 Model Air colours is developed for camouflage patterns of any type WWII Luftwaffe aircraft previous to the WWII and the Spanish Civil War (Condor Legion), as well as for the campaigns and initial phases of the conflict in Poland, Northern Europe, and the battles of France and England. 71166 Luftwaffe Colours 1941 to End-War Model Air RLM (Reichs Luftfahrt Ministerium) colours with new formulations, revised on the basis of an extensive study and review of the exact shades of the available documentation and most recent bibliographies. The new RLM sets include profiles of the aircraft by Mark Rolfe, showing the various RLM colour combinations used in the camouflage patterns, as well as information about their application and purpose. With the collaboration of the “Pieza a Pieza Modelling Workshop”. This set with 8 Model Air colours is developed for camouflage patterns of all Luftwaffe models of fighters (single engine, heavy and night fighters) starting in 1941, as well as the colours employed towards the end of the war (1944-45) on the latest models of interceptors, and on the revolutionary new jets and latest model aircraft. * These new sets replace earlier versions and include in some cases new colours. 26007 + 26008 Front Stand + Corner Stand 26007 - Front Stand: The perfect solution for storing Vallejo colours. This model has space for 52 bottles of Model colour in 17ml size, together with 8 bottles of 35 or 60 ml, and 22 brushes. Easy assembly, does not require glue. Size: Length 13.4” (34cm), Width 8.75” (22.3cm) and Height 4.3” (11cm) 26008 - Corner Stand: The perfect solution for storing Vallejo colours. This corner model has space for 28 bottles of Model Colour in the 17ml size, together with 16 bottles of 35 or 60 ml one 200ml bottle and 26 brushes. Easy assembly, does not require glue. Size: Length 10.6” (27cm), Width 10.6” (27cm) and Height 4.3” (11cm) 75005 The Rise of Fantasy by Juan J. Barrena (JJ) A practical guide and introduction to the creation of fantasy scenes. this book contains step by step instructions on how to paint a figure and transformation of the figures, as well as the composition of the backgrounds, with points on highlighting the various elements of the composition, and on the portrayal of water, land, wood and rusted metal and general scenery.

Greetings fellow modelers. This is my first posting here and I am just full of questions. So I am hoping some of you will be able to help me with a few small matters. Painting. I have built a few models before so I have a small amount of experience with Testors enamels. Always had good luck with those. Now I have acquired a large scale model (revells big tub roadster) which shows everything all the time. So I want this paint to be the best I can do. I was told by many to use Tamiya spray primer(I choose gray as the color of the car will be dark blue.) I know you should try to use all the same type or kind of paint. So I picked up some Tamiya acrylic(do they make enamels?) I primed a spare part I do not need for the version I am building and it turned out well. Tried to brush it with the bottle paint in black..didn't turn out so well. seemed very rough when done. Thought maybe wet sanding it will do the trick to make it smooth as with the primer. I was not happy with the end result. Do I need to thin it? I know I should also be using a brush meant for acrylic paints. I assume that whatever I do to say the body I need to do to all other pieces of the car, say like engine parts as well. rough up..primer..2 mist coats one heavy then wet sand. then paint with color in the same fashion. layers and then wet sand. I have grits from 400 to sand off high spots up to 12000 and liquid polish to or can I just rough and paint with color with no need to prime first on the small stuff? Some parts I have to brush paint with more than one color on one piece and some I have to mask off and spray..I am using body filler on many things so I am sure I will have to primer those pieces no matter what their size. which brings me to my next question. The chrome parts. do I need to primer these(chrome parts without body filler) as well before painting them? I do not think I will see a need to paint all the chrome other than for matching purposes so if I need to paint a piece simply to match does it need to have all the chrome taken off..primed..sanded..then painted. or just scuff it good and spray it? Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Immalion

We have now got in the Four New Vallejo Game Air Colours. Vallejo 72769 - Flesh Vallejo 72770 - Burned Flesh Vallejo 72771 - Barbarian Flesh Vallejo 72772 - Red Terracotta The colours in the range have been selected in collaboration with modellers specialized in fantasy figures and dioramas, and the existing colours in the Game Air range have been taken into particular consideration. The names and shades of the most popular colours of Game Colour have been maintained in Game Air, using the formulation and resins employed for Model Air (see Equivalency Table below). In the colour chart we include a diagram of the most frequent colour combinations: base colour, light and shadow.

Good Morning, I have just taken delivery of the Dragon Conquerer Mk2. This is my first AFV kit which seems very easy to build, i would have hoped for a metal main armament, and the tracks although they look well detailed remind my of the rubber bands of my youth. ( i am now 60 and returning to the hobby) I believe that the paint in service during the 60's was a gloss dark green called Bronze Green. 1, is this correct? 2, Who produces the colour? Probably been discussed before, but i couldn't find it. Regards Graham. ( new boy in town ).

I think I might know the answer to this, but it is Monday.......... I have some Tamiya paints, the acrylics ones plus I have some Tamiya thinner. I know that people have used IPA to thin the paints but would it be possible to use Lighter Fluid instead? Or is like many paints, Tamiya paints works best with Tamiya Thinner? Cheers

You may have heard on the forums that Royal Mail has taken the unreasonable and ill-conceived decision to refuse to carry acrylic paints in packages over 4 bottles, and are now actively destroying parcels that they believe may contain this hideously dangerous contraband (that was sarcasm BTW). It's affecting retailers because they are having to cover the cost of these defaced parcels, it's affecting consumers because they're getting their parcels delayed or disappearing in transit, or having to pay higher courier charges that make buying paints online a hassle that is often not worth the effort if all you want is a few tins/bottles to top up your supplies. Repeat "offenders" will be prosecuted, would you believe? Royal Mail excel at stupid ideas, but this is one of their most annoying of late. Acrylic paint is non-toxic and non-flammable, and yet you ARE allowed to send a pressurised can of hairspray, a bottle of propane (I know this one from personal experience), or a bottle of whisky. What can we do? Not a lot on our own, as like most large companies, the consumer's lone voice is largely ignored. Some bright spark by the name of Leon Pengilley has come up with the idea of a petition to lodge with Royal Mail, and they're looking for support from modellers to add some weight of numbers. We're modellers (allegedly), so lets all join up and make our feelings known. If you want to be able to order paint with impunity from your favourite internet model shop whenever you want, without being stung for inflated courier charges, sign your name on the petition, which you can reach from the banner below. Don't leave it to everyone else... Take the time, make your feelings known!!

Hello there, I am looking for RAF 512 Squadron C-47 paint scheme layout and colors. Circa 1944. KG330. If anyone has any links or any info that would me much appreciated! I have found one picture but of not the whole aircraft. http://www.vintagewings.ca/Portals/0/Vintage_Stories/News%20Stories%20K/Twice%20Lucky/TwiceLucky36.jpg It will be used for a 1/32 Guillows kit