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depressed lemur

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About depressed lemur

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  1. Well done on what is a long tedious build. I fully understand the "never again " sentiment.
  2. I have a nasty habit of doing WIPs and never showing off the end result, so for the first time, an RFI. the kit was the Eduard 1/48 dual combo P-39 Airacobra Bella. this has the privilege of being my first and second Eduard build. Paints used were mainly Mr Hobby for all major external surfaces, with details being either Vallejo or Tamiya. Apart from things like exhaust stacks, all applied with the airbrush. This was also my first attempt at weathering, though restricted to pre-shading and some exhaust and radiator staining. I found the kit to be challenging as some parts were not clearly defined on the instructions and the lack of locating lugs on the fuselage made alignment tricky whilst holding all the internals together. One improvement I would recommend would be to include an idea of nose weight. I added a 5g wheel trim weight plus six ball bearings to each airframe which just about was enough provided the wheels were glued in exactly the right position. Still, they didn't sit on their asses. On with the pictures. Thanks for looking.
  3. Careful? I'll have you know, we are modellers. We do detailed, pernickrty and pedantic, but not careful
  4. I never thought I would reach this post. I have a nasty habit of building close the the end and not posting the results. Today was the last day of the build. Mainly today was propellers and ancillaries. The propeller was built from a number of pieces, not least being individual blades. these have no locating points and the instructions helpfully give a pitch angle for the blade, but you can put it in any of 360 degree angles, so not much help. I was able to knock up a simple card jig to allow me to build the damn thing. On the plus side, they do build up quite well. On the negative, that great lump in the middle of the spinner is meant to be a cannon barrel. Looks a bit pants, so out with my drill bits. Not perfect, but this was the biggest drill bit I have, so it has to do. The next few hours were spent sticking on bits and pieces, and most importantly, removing masking. I am calling these done. Finished, Ended,Actually stood on the wheels! A quick summary Negatives. Bloody etch. Fiddly, not all is seen at the end The soddin' great cannon in the nose needs a hollow point. Eduard, please re-visit the kit. No indication of nose weight. Masks do not have curved edges Challenges Recovering from a bizarre paint bloom. Attaching the canopies, doors etc. weathering (pre-shading) Positives Masks, so much easier. Unusual subject in the scale A nice challenge which didn't get me down. I really enjoyed this joint build. I learned a lot and help from you guys with history and advice was worth it's weight in gold. I am about to go away for a few days on work but hope to get some better pics in the RFI section later. thanks for your help. Thanks for looking The Lemur.
  5. This week has seen very little movement, being mostly concerned with paint revival. I must say, I was completely flummoxed by the bloom on one wing, after all, both airframes were painted at the same time, with the same paint, form the same mix. So, the paint was not the issue. Both kits were varnished at the same time using the same Klear, so the varnish is not the reason. As I pre-mix all my paint stash I am confident that there was no difference between any of the batches throughout, even at a molecular level. But still, one wing went white. One Wing!! not the full thing, just one. Anyhoo, I found a very fine line using IPA between removing the bloom and removing the paint / varnish, so rather than rushing, I have had a slow, steady week, the end result being this. It looks a little more weathered than the port wing but I am happy not having to strip and re-build. Yesterday I managed to stick a bit of etch underneath. which seems to have worked rather well. which spurred me on to trying on the legs. This is a moment of truth as the first real time you know that you have enough nose weight. Well, slap me sideways with a steamed Haddock. They are both steady. Just a few bits and pieces to go (prop, aerials, doors. bit of paint) and I may actually post in RFI. Thanks for looking
  6. You could always invest in a couple of starter kits
  7. Thanks Clive. It is still looking positive after an hour so, fingers crossed.
  8. Oh count me in Mrs Depressed is at work on 27th so I have a free run if I start at 8pm on the 26th, a wee kip before I get woken at 5:30. I like the idea of opening a present at the start so there is no idea of what it is. I shall have to drop some heavy hints.
  9. Day of disaster!. I managed to get back into the den today and cracked on with the Bella pair. the day started well with sealing both kits in Klear prior to trying out some kind of weathering. Mmmm, shiny, This does make them look very toy like, and when dry, handling them feels even worse but I am in a happy place with all the decals sealed in so things should be happy from here on in. I decided to add only exhaust staining and some stains to the underside air outlets. I have never done this kind of thing before so started by looking at photos of used P-39s in Russia. Contrary to popular belief they do not appear to look completely trashed, so just light staining is the way to go. A quick trawl on the internet brought up a few different methods none of which I had any equipment to hand so deep breath and push on. I started by masking above the exhaust outlet on the side as photos show that the staining goes in a downward sweep towards the middle area of the lower rear fuselage. First on was a series of passes with Tamiya Smoke to build up layers getting thicker near to the exhaust outlet. Once happy I tried to darken with a bit of Tyre Black followed by a light grey stain. I have no idea if this is realistic, but it will do for my first go. This was left to dry for a couple of hours whilst I made tea. Once refreshed I thought I could stick on my matt varnish. My go-to for this has always been Hannants matt varnish through the airbrush. the first one went fine. the high gloss has now dulled down to a matt sheen. The second was 75% successful. Unfortunately one wing has gone white. The first thing I did was panic. Then I got annoyed and seriously thought about binning it before calming down and thinking. I tried using water to remove it (after all it is water soluble) but this does not work when it has dried so, chemicals are needed. I did not want to strip and re-start as a) I like the paint job so far and b) I am a little short on replacement decals. This was the result of IPA on a cotton bud (Q Tip). I have had to use almost no pressure as the first brush through managed to lift a hint of green. My first try was positive, so I pressed on with a couple of panels. The result seems to be positive, but streaky. This just adds some extra weathering . As it seemed to work, I pressed on with the rest and ended up with a better looking (though slightly shiny) wing. I will review this tomorrow evening and see if the method has worked, and if I need to re-varnish the matt. Thanks for looking.
  10. Decalling is the part of builds that I hate with a passion. It is slow, tedious, and, once the main markings are on, descends into a purgatory of non-stop stencils. I know that there are some of you out there who probably thrive on this kind of thing but once I get past this.... I just want to stop. Of course, the problem is, it doesn't look finished until you have stuck "no push" over every conceivable surface. This is enough for me. Though this is even better. Although there is no clear guidance I have worked on the principle that if the Russians have seen fit to repair and repaint this particular airframe I can see no reason why they would reinstate unreadable (to them) capitalist words. This at least cuts down the number of the flipping things to apply and the story fits my mind enough. There are still the fuselage stencils to go before I can seal under a bit of Klear. Then it is time for a bit of staining and weathering. Thanks for looking.
  11. Hi guys, Thanks for the words of encouragement, I keep plodding on with this but I think I am now at a kind of where the hell am I up to moments. The paint schemes I am going for show repaired panels as neat lines as if they have been painted prior to addition to the aircraft. I tried this with one fuselage, but decided to free hand the other. My reasoning being that repairs would have been painted, but I think this may have been in the field as the suggested repair colours are German. I therefore guess that the panels would be sprayed after application, but within the local of the repair. so, First scheme, I think the edges look too neat. Second kit A tight freehand on the affected panels. I feel this looks better. The undersides Again, a tight freehand spray. I am happy with this. Now, this is the what do I do bit.I think the finish is still clean, so I am going to freehand some staining, but, what about the decals? If I leave them, they will look too neat? I think I will add all markings now and seal with varnish. Then I can experiment with exhaust and radiator staining. I have no idea what I am doing, but we shall have to see how it works out. I just hope I don't stuff this up. Thanks for looking.
  12. Finally the first coats are going on. As these started life in the U.S. the first stage is to finish in standard colours for the day, i.e. grey undersides and Olive upper (Mr. Hobby names). Today I thought I would be brave and use my new airbrush for the first time. It is a Harder and Steinbeck Ultra, and I got it around eight months ago, but didn't want to use it in case I broke it. However, my cheapo brushes apply paint with much spattering involved which, according to Google and YouTube, means they are nearing EoL. So I thought I would take a chance and use an airbrush that cost more than 15 quid, would it be any better? Yes. That was easy. OK, to quantify; I found that I could reduce the psi from 20-22 down to around 15, despite this the paint still flows quicker, more evenly and to a better finish. It is also a cinch to clean with a very quick break down procedure. Definitely worth the money, and means I will need to get another as I have found that mixing between Vallejo and Tamiya/Mr. Hobby is a right pain. So this will be used for Mr Colour (and Tamiya), the old brushes will be for Vallejo until I get another. Oh, I forgot, this is supposed to be a build! You want to see pictures to show I am not just waffling on. The underside is a nice smooth finish with just a hint of the pre-shading visible. I would appreciate your comments on this, is it enough, too much, not enough? There will be a touch up session as there is a smudge on the belly pan, and I will also try to add staining from the radiator vents at a later date if I feel brave. The upper surfaces look a bit better I think. I now need to add some more masking before doing a bit more pre-shade and covering with Russian colours. Hopefully things will progress further soon. Thanks for looking.
  13. Sorry, I realised that I have not been very good at updating this build. Having said that, not much has happened as life has decided to get in the way of what I want to be doing. Still, a little movement has happened. Much masking has taken place and the kits have been primed using Tamiya Sky Grey (I just like it). I have also tried to do a bit of pre-shading (never tried, might have got a bit heavy), but I will plow on. A word about Eduard masks. I am a little hit and miss about this as the plus is that you don't have to faff about cutting Tamiya tape to size. Also, they are commendably thin making masking curves a cinch and as for the landing light mask, 100% appreciated. However, I find that (the ones in the kit) have sharp corners for the window frames, whereas the real thing has a radius. Having said that, I will hold judgement until it is all removed. The astute amongst you may notice that the doors have not been placed in the closed position, and sponge is sealing the area at the moment. the reason for this is that the doors do not fit closed. I can't work out if this is because I am rubbish at building (not unlikely) or the etch bulks the door just enough to interfere. Still, not a deal breaker. Thanks for looking.
  14. This week I moved on to adding the wings to the second airframe. As I said, the approach this time was different to the build wings then attach to fuselage as recommend by the instructions. Again, the work was carried out in stages to allow maximum setting time between stages to avoid breaking previous joints. So, first of all, the rear of the lower wing was attached to the fuselage to create a joint. This is almost seamless compare to the first attempt. I left this for a couple of days before closing the front joint. this again gave a good finish. Leaving it a day to make sure it didn't pull apart I moved to the upper surfaces. Getting the root to fit closely was fairly easy with both wings being attached quickly. As you can see, a nice joint requiring no filler. It does create a gap at the tip, but this closes up with minimum of fuss. I am now starting to add masking sponge into various holes which must mean I am getting on towards the best bit, painting. First of all, though, I need to add half a dozen parts to the canopies before including, and then adding the doors in a closed position. More to follow.
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