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My entry to the GB is the Bronco Staghound Mk III. I have always quite liked the Staghound, but I think this is my favorite as it has a Crusader turret (not sure that is correct, but it definitely looks like one). The Staghound armoured car was conceived in the US at the start of WW2, based on a British specification which required a wheeled reconnaissance vehicle with a high level of protection, therefore armour plated, well armed, and highly mobile. The Chevrolet design proposed a large armoured car which, following an extended programme of assessment and testing, went into production in late 1942, too late to be sent to British forces engaged in North Africa. Allied forces were to receive the Staghound in the Spring of 1943 and they were used in the Italian campaign by British and Polish armies In spite of the impressive performance of this vehicle it was not adopted by the US army and so the 3,000 units produced were used solely by British and Commonwealth forces. The figure is a resin one from eBay. A British soldier with a Sten gun (will take a better picture later). Will have to have a look in the spares box for a vehicle commander. I am currently double booked as I am in the Meteor GB also, so progress maybe a bit limited to start with. George

This will be my GB entry. A random Friday night eBay purchase from a few years ago. It comes with a 1977 mini catalogue, so it has been sat in a box for over 40 years, waiting to fulfil its purpose. Still bagged, so hopefully it's all there. No instructions but there's a set on Scalemates. The catalogue includes a range of 1/9 scale motorbikes and a Kubelwagen. Out of curiosity I had a peek on eBay and my wallet started crying, This will be my first ESCI kit. I don't know much about them so I'm looking forward to finding out.

So, having completed the Filthy Landrover and Dirty Sherman, I'm about to start on my next learning journey build, the AFV Club FV107 Scimitar. This is also a first venture into the brand, which looking at builds here, should be OK. Taking the learning from the previous two, I've decided to go basic ...... no damage, no thick application of mud (despite the recent delivery of some Ammo mud effects stuff) and no aerials made from wire. As it's based on a vehicle used in the desert, I've done a bit of research (unlike the last time!) and; by the looks of it, the desert colour was applied over the standard green, although if anyone knows different, I'll happily take some guidance. Based on this, my plan is to go NATO green, apply chipping fluid in the areas that seem to get most wear and then apply the desert colour so I can work on getting that 'scrubbed' look, but without going overboard. A appears to be tradition, I've pictured the sprues ..... they look crisp and not too much flash. There are a lot ejector pin marks, but none that I can see will need attention at the moment. Make yourself a brew, pull up a chair ...... here goes!! 20230127_213345 by Ran Domstuff, on Flickr 20230127_213647 by Ran Domstuff, on Flickr 20230127_213659 by Ran Domstuff, on Flickr 20230127_213726 by Ran Domstuff, on Flickr Thanks for looking Keith

Hello folks, Happy New Year, whish you all the best in 2023. Sometimes, you have to indulge your masochistic needs, and I think that this kit is perfect for the job I've heard stories about Ark Model kits and how disastrous they are, but I wanted to check that myself. And I can say that stories are true Here it is. It's the cheapest kit I ever bought (don't remember exact price, but it was definitely bellow $10), but I'll throw so much AM parts and time in it that it will probably end us as the most expensive . And here are some goodies that I'll use for this build: Those pin marks... Tracks are single link, but they are almost impossible to clean up and not much details. I'll replace them with Friuls. Some more "details": And of course, everything is warped: No comment on this. Had to sand the seam lines on wheels completely, because they are off-center. And the fit is... well... not perfect: OK, so everything is there for an exciting and challenging build I'll ignore the accuracy, especially dimensions, because I can't do much about that. But 'll try to fix some details and at least make it look not that ugly. There are quite a lot of reference photos around, which is surprising having in mind that there were only 12 of these vehicles built (all of them sent to North Africa). I am aiming to something like this: That's it for now. I'll stop ranting about the kit, I promise Cheers, Nenad

So for my second build I’m going to build an Erhardt from the papercraft model on Landships 2 but in 1/35 rather than 1/43 and from plastic not paper. The papercraft model. Next step to scale it up by 12%.

This is Takom's 1/35 scale model kit of the Soviet Kv-5 Heavy Tank, the design of the tank was finished in 1941 & preparation for constructing a prototype was started but the siege of Leningrad put an end to it's development. You can find more information & photos of the kits's sprues in Mike's review here. I started making this several months ago while house/pet sitting for a friend & wanted a simple low part project to keep me busy while I was there. It turned out it was a bit to simple for my liking though & after constructing the basic hull & turret I spent most of my time rescribing all the weld seams, along with adding several missing ones. I also added flame cut marks along the edges of the armour plates to help bring some life to the textureless kit. Speaking of texture that brings us to today where I though I'd grab this back out of the box & stipple on some thinned down Mr.Surfacer to add a mottled armour texture to the large flat vertical surfaces of the hull & turret. Another change I made to the kit was the two large rectangular hatches on the engine deck, they originally extended all the way to the edge of the deck. I carefully scraped the ends of the hatches off so they are a more accurate size & then scribed a missing panel line along the edge. Someone didn't know when to stop The kits many wheels have also been cleaned up & put together ready for instillation. Before that though I need to finish redoing all the weld seams on the hull & turret.

It's been a while, a combination of poor health and Mo and Jo having left the building . so a quick(?) simple build.... The pilchard season in Cornwall started around July and continued until October but sometimes went on until the New Year. The principal method of catching the huge shoals was seine netting. Two boats carried the nets. The first boat (stop seiner) carried a net measuring 440 yds x 33 yards deep (400m x 30m). The second boat carried the tuck seine 160yds x 33yds (145m x 30m). A third boat called the lurker carried the Master Seiner who controlled the operation. In West Cornwall because of the strength of the tides the nets had to be shot close inshore. The Lurkers position was performed by from the cliff top by the Huer. As the shoals were seen to be approaching the Huer used a long tin trumpet to call ‘ Heeva’ and the boats were launched. From there the Huer directed operations using a form of semaphore code. My intention is depict the Huer Anyone wanting to know a bit more..... https://www.bsjwtrust.co.uk/wp/wp-content/uploads/Pichard-Fishery.pdf Using an old punt/dinghy as a shelter For figures Im thinking the old gent on the right and the young lad to the left So here we go with half a boat Stay safe and warm Kev

This is CSM's new version of their 1/35 Lanchester AC that was released in its original form a year or so ago. The updated kit represents the modified Lanchesters that were used during the Russian civil war, featuring a new rear deck with revised fenders, and the addition of a 37mm Hotchkiss gun in the turret. Aside from the new Russian specific parts, the rest of the kit is the same as the previous version, but with the welcome addition of clear lenses for the headlights, something that was missing from the first release. In common with the original release, this version went together with no issues, and was a lot of fun to build and paint. Speaking of paint, CSM are refreshingly honest about the lack of contemporary info regarding the exact colour of these armoured cars. They suggest British Moss Green or Service Khaki as the most likely colour, and I went with AMMO Moss Green for this build, albeit with a lot of additional shading, fading and colour glazes. Thanks for looking Andy

In 2020 I built the 1/35 Dragon Conqueror Mk. II MBT. I also started on a accompanying figure - the British Soldier, 1960s 1980s Wearing Parka from Firing Line, but didn't finished it - until now. I hope you will like it. Let's roll some pictures: Genesys: And finaly in his 'natural' habitat: I tried to use the practice of black basecoting with white sprayed from above, but couldn't seem to get the hang of it so resorted to shading, drybrushing, more shading etc. Cheers Hans J

Hi All, Diving head first into my first large scale model. In this case, it Academy's lovely 1/35th scale AH-1Z Viper attack helicopter. I love the AH-1 series of helicopters, and really dig this particular variant (as well as the OG Vietnam War era AH-1G). I've picked up just about everything made for this model, so let's see if I can make it work. The box art; The aftermarket goodies; First thing to accomplish, and the most involved aspect as far as integrating an aftermarket set was preparing the forward fuselage for the Legend Productions AH-1Z avionics and ammunition bays. I drilled holes around the perimeter of the molded in bay access doors, then used a craft saw to removed the doors. Various sanding sticks and files were used to removed the remnants of the doors up to the door panel lines and clean up the opening. Here's the bays loosely fitted into place. I will permanently glue them into place once the bays are painted and the forward fuselage is assembled. Thanks to @Greg W for helping me get these fitted into place. His knowledge on how to tackle installing resin sets of this type was greatly appreciated. Here's the tail boom with some photoetch screens and Flying Leathernecks FMV antenna fairing fitted in place; Thanks for looking!

Hi All, so here is my M10 Achilles, 75th Anti Tank Regiment, 11th Armoured Division, North West Europe 1944 Honestly, this was a complete joy to build, and as anyone knows, that's usually how Tamiya Kits go. Pretty much did this all out the box, bar the stowage and jerry cans. The Stowage was from someone on eBay, honestly really good and detailed, along with some Tamiya Jerry cans. The straps over the Jerry Cans are made out of Tamiya tape and painted. But Ollie, its not in Olive Drab or SCC15! Ha! Yes I know, I had a toss up between SCC15 and SCC2, and chose SCC2 as I think I needed a break from Green and honestly, I think it looks amazing in SCC2, I hope you agree! That being said, I know it may not be totally historically accurate, but I hope somewhere in 1943, at least 1 or 2 Achilles were painted this colour! (We can only hope!) I'm yet to add the figures, which will be coming soon. It's one muddy Achilles. My goal for this was to test some weathering techniques and eventually add this to a Diorama. A muddy countryside, hull down next to a farmhouse. The rest of the photos are below, id love to have some feedback on it, so feel free to comment! I'm aware that the rope for the stowage is a little to thick. Unsure of my next build, but I'm sure to actually update you guys on it in the other section. (Maybe the Comet? Or a Cromwell?) Enjoy all and thank you!

Well, it's the second of 2023 finished ..... the over-weathered 'Dirty Sherman'! A couple of bits ... Aerials - cut the plastic ones off the base, drilled and fitted a length of silver wire for more realism Tow cable - scratch made from silver wire with the eyes bound to the main cable with separate wire My 'Notes to self' ... 1. Test fit everything, then file, shave, test fit again (and again and again) before shoehorning it in or on! 2. Don't try to be smart and try adding shell damage this soon ... master the basics first! 3. Spend time learning subtle weathering first 4. Go easy on those muddy pigments .... tanks get muddy, but seriously! (He writes after ordering another load of mud stuff! ) So here it is .... please be gentle! Sherman front by Ran Domstuff, on Flickr Sherman front by Ran Domstuff, on Flickr Sherman 1 by Ran Domstuff, on Flickr [/url]Sherman side 1 by Ran Domstuff, on Flickr Sherman side 2 by Ran Domstuff, on Flickr Sherman rear by Ran Domstuff, on Flickr Sherman 1 by Ran Domstuff, on Flickr Sherman top by Ran Domstuff, on Flickr Thank you for looking .. Keith

I've not posted any during build pictures of this, but completed it at last .... and the first of 2023! This is an out of box build, so nothing special and it's one being used to hone my techniques. I have taken some time on the canvas to try to make it realistic looking, it does have some highlights along the edges and where the support hoops would be aswell as some subtle shading. Weathered using mostly splashes. Thoughts? 20230121_140407 by Ran Domstuff, on Flickr 20230121_140345 by Ran Domstuff, on Flickr 20230121_140418 by Ran Domstuff, on Flickr 20230121_140430 by Ran Domstuff, on Flickr Thanks for looking! Keith

My first planned entry is ICMs 1/35 Model T RNAS Armoured Car. This will be the third version ICMs Model T I have built. They are great little kits. Previous build were; Model T 1917 Ambulance Model T 1917 LCP

The best way of introducing this is to show what the box looks like: It looks a teeny-tiny bit like: Even the Suyata logo is a rip-off. This seems to be what Suyata do, because they also produce kits with very similar boxart to Takom and the Suyata logo miraculously changes to look like a Takom one (no pictures, but you get the idea). The box is big enough, and contains a lot of air: Here's the kit: What I bought it for was the 90s video game / angular / 3D model figures, because I quite liked the look of them. Although they might end up a bit rubbish. We shall see. I should never have bought this, I know. I feel like an alcoholic confessing all in front of an AA meeting.

Hi Pals, This model is well known by many, it is quite simple, with some factory problems, but they can be solved with some skill. I had read about it before, and since I thought I could fix it, I also bought it at a discount time. I remember that the structure of the hull, being asymmetrical and complex in shape, I had some problem fitting it into place, I think I had to "sculpt" some joint, although not what it was...sorry, in case it was useful. .. Another well-known thing is the "union" of the tracks, which although they are easy to finish, they have not measured the length they should have well, and there is a space of approximately one link that must be filled... I saw that other modelers cut a link in half, and it was just right... I tried to cut two, so that the loss of width would be less noticeable... As an improvement I tried making the grip straps for the tools out of masking tape. Another problem with the kit is that the decals, although beautiful, are extremely thick...and that even with the fixing liquids, it was impossible not to notice that they "protruded"...incredible for a brand like " TAKOM"... despite everything, several layers of product and varnish, did the job... The stars and the yellow band, I did try with a mask and tape, to airbrush them, because the quality was just as bad, but the surface was not smooth as with the numerals... I think that after several tests they turned out well... The idea was to make a used vehicle, but one that has not seen real combat, since the paint options offered by the kit are from training schools, except the Soviet one, but since I wanted an American vehicle that I have very few, hence the chose. I added a fiber antenna and that's it.... There are some photos with his "little brother" an M3 Stuart, which he had already done before (and published in the forum in case someone is interested in seeing it, I add a link WIP and RTI), and that seemed appropriate, since they are from the same period and same user, for comparison... RECCE FORCE, M3A1 STUART 1/35 ITALERI https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235074828-recce-force-m3a1-stuart-135-italeri/ Thanks for watching as always. Cheers and TC Francis. SOME PICS ON DETAIL: BROTHERS IN ARMS:

Hi all, In between the frustrating steps of my other projects, I've decided to start something a little more easy going. I picked up Takom's M-46 and Jeep combo, a few days ago. Bother kits have been previously released separately. I don't think there is anything new here. The patton has the fantastic Korean War tiger markings, and the jeep can also be built as a USMC Korean War vehicle. The choice was simple. My thoughts on Takom kits, shift. Some of the early ones were extremely frustrating, but the more recent releases are like Tamiya+. The kits are well engineered and comparatively easy to build, like Tamiya. The + comes from all the small details that are all right there. So anyway. Here we go. First the chassis and engine of the jeep. Admittedly, I started this a few nights ago, but I'm just now getting around to posting. It looks fairly intricate, but the assembly was very simple. And here are the first steps of the patton. After wrestling with the suspension on Miniart's T-44, this was like a dream. After taking this photo, I finished the other side. This all took maybe an hour or so.

Hello there, comrades. With your indulgence (I didn't vote last year), I'd like to join the fun with this little beauty. Certainly fits the bill; it's a car that's armoured This is my first attempt at a groupbuild. I'm hoping that joining you will motivate me to complete this project within a reasonable time for a change. Today, the day that stops a nation is underway, when the chaff burners compete for the Melbourne Cup. A couple will fall over on the wet track and be shot, women wear fascinators, everyone splashes money around and most get Brahms and Liszt. Unaccountably, it's a public holiday! But it's chucking down with rain and we've just had a violent hail storm. What better day to stay indoors, avoid the soggy hullabaloo and start a new project? Here's how my dear friend Enviroman marked the dreadful day on his kitchen calendar a couple of years back...

I've not posted any during build pictures of this, but completed it at last .... and the first of 2023! This is an out of box build, so nothing special and it's one being used to hone my techniques. I have taken some time on the canvas to try to make it realistic looking, it does have some highlights along the edges and where the support hoops would be aswell as some subtle shading. Weathered using mostly splashes. Thoughts? 20230121_140407 by Ran Domstuff, on Flickr 20230121_140345 by Ran Domstuff, on Flickr 20230121_140418 by Ran Domstuff, on Flickr 20230121_140430 by Ran Domstuff, on Flickr Thanks for looking! Keith

Hi folks, Looking forward to this GB - it will be nice to have this running alongside my Meteor GB entry so I can go back and forward between the two. So here's my entry - something a bit more unusual - the Soviet BA-10 Armoured Car from Hobby Boss. I don't think there's one in the running so far (although I think I've spotted a BA-6) So, obligatory box art and sprue pics below: I haven't decided on which of the paint schemes I'd like to do yet, although I do know it will be one of the Soviet schemes and not the German one. Please let me know if anyone has a preference and I could always go with the general consensus Good luck to everyone with their builds - looks like it's going to be a really interesting GB and looking forward to seeing the results in the gallery at the end Best wishes Kris

Welcome to my build. I thought this would be a decent build for a group build, nice small armoured car but then I looked at the contents! Lots of parts, full interior detailing and a fair whack of PE. We shall see how far I get with this one! Kit is Gecko Models 1/35 sawn off Daimler armoured car. Box is nice and full, lots of good detail in it. This will be the first Gecko models kit I’ve built and I’m hoping for a fun build as I’ve got my eye on their LCA that’s being launched soon. kit box: contents: Comprehensive instructions. Look at all that PE!: Wish me luck!

For so many reasons I can’t resist this one. Almost but not quite the first prototype British tank, which its development led to Mother which in turn led to the MKI heavy tank and the rest as they say is history.

I have always been a sucker for WWII halftracks and soft skins ever since I returned to the hobby, with Axis vehicles being a particular favourite. Over the last couple of years I have built a fair few Sd.Kfz.7 8 ton variants. Dragon (D) and Trumpeter (T) are the only manufacturers to offer the vehicle in 1/35 scale and currently offer eleven different versions between them. At last count both manufacturers offer twenty-six kits with both producing early and late towing vehicles as well as Flak variants. Both offer the same models with the odd variant being produced by just one. Dragon also offers combo packs including artillery pieces. Gun crew vehicles are available in initial (D), early (D & T) and late (D & T) Wooden bodied (Holzpritsche) versions are offered by D & T Self-propelled Flak versions carried four main weapons. The early and later armoured cab model 7/1 version Flakvierling 38, (D & T), and the three 7/2 versions; early and late Flak 37 (D & T), early Flak 41 (T), and late Flak 43 (D & T) Two kits that only one manufacturer offer is Trumpeter‘s 7/3 Feuerleitpanzer version which was used specifically at Rocket sites and Dragon offer the specific 1943 HL m11 version of the gun crew vehicle. Cyber Hobby released an early Flakvierling 38 variant in 2011 but I have no idea if that differs from the Dragon boxed kit #6525 of the same name that was released in 2009. An early gun crew Sd.Kfz 7 in North Africa As regards to builders, both the main ones were Borgward (designated HL) and Krauss Maffei (designated KM). The radiator housings received their emblems on earlier vehicles. An early model Sd.Kfz 7/1 version Flakvierling 38 One variant that is missing from range in offer is the earliest incarnation of the wooden cargo bodied (Holzpritsche) These were first attached to the 1943 Typ HL m11 which retained the old-style metal driver’s compartment. The Holzpritche bodied vehicles were a solution to save on limited and dwindling Nazi supplies of raw materials. The first Holzpritsche vehicles built of the final m11 design were installed by the manufacturer Saurer as early as November 1943 and this is the vehicle I am planning to build at the end of this build log. Early Holzpritsche fitted to the Typ HL m11 With both Trumpeter and Dragon only offering the final versions of the Holzpritsche which included the revised and larger wooden cab I will likely have to combine elements of different kits. It would be made far simpler if just one manufacturer got things right, but alas, both do suffer from their own inaccuracies and issues. To this end I am going to first begin by building both the final Holzpritche versions to see what will work best. Once completed I will attempt to create the early version with the best of what both manufacturers can offer. First up is Trumpeters 2009 released kit # 01507 which they simply brand as a KM m11 ‘late version. Having built this kit quite a long time ago not long after I returned to the hobby, I recall a few concerns that made it a less than pleasurable build in places, so let’s do a quick recap before I start the build. The main spoiler concerns the sprockets. First up, they look a little odd. That is because they have bevelled groves on the main face which were never present. Trumpeter don’t even show them in their own painting guide or box art, so something was at odds! The biggest problem however is that building them up as per the instructions means the tracks will not fit over the sprocket without leaving a nasty gap. The kit’s engineering lacks the important drive sprocket teeth offset (seen on many German running gear designs) which prevents the track from sitting evenly around the sprocket. In addition, the part containing the outer roller detail once fitted is hidden on the reverse side! Trumpeter never designed the teeth offset of the rollers against each track pad as per the real thing, so the track links do not sit flush against each track pad. Each sprocket is also ‘handed’ so any surgery will require removing the same part from each sprocket then a test fitment of a small track run will then determine how you re-assemble each sprocket. The recommended surgery is not complex and TBH re-fitting the small tabs that require removal for the modification to work are not completely necessary. The sprocket modification explanation with pics can be found here: https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/trumpeter/tr01523d04.htm If you want the sprocket to resemble the real thing aesthetically the groves will still need to be filled in, which will not be an easy task. Even then the track pad inner fitting plates and bolts are missing so for the ultimate authenticity an aftermarket photo etch set will still be required. Even better still, try and locate a 3D printed pair. The second biggest kit failing is the omission of the wooden equipment rack in the load area. Although the equipment rack was designed to be removeable to easily convert into a flatbed the rack is an important element of this variant so why it is missing is a mystery. Trumpeter do offer some additional internal planking, but it is totally inaccurate. They do however offer a nice tarp for both the cab and load area, so there is a ‘cover up’ alternative. Another distinct anomaly is the inclusion of a Flak variant cab bench. The bench did not have an angled cut out on the passenger side and the driver’s seat cushions were much deeper with a cut out in the horizontal framework to accommodate. The Panzer Tracts book quite clearly illustrates the correct layout which also shows a battery box instead of the two exposed batteries that the kit offers. Comparing the kit dimensionally with the Panzer Tracts book 22-4, the overall length is a smidgen long compared to the drawings and the profile of the front fenders is slightly out. Neither warrants the amount of work which would be required to correct IMO. So, with the major fitment issue, the missing part exposed and a dodgy cab seating arrangement, what else can we expect? The kit offers these licence plate decals Even if accuracy is not a major concern, then some ‘interesting’ engineering and odd step sequencing is still worth highlighting. The chassis engineering is overly complex so rather than a nice strong one piece moulding that all the Dragon 8t kits offer, a multipiece affair will need to be cleaned up and carefully aligned together. Personally, I believe this is the main issue with all the Trumpeter 8t kits. Too many parts when one or two would have been perfectly fine. I guess Trumpeter never embraced slide moulding technology like Dragon did! To complicate matters, the instructions have you add some of the smallest and most fragile parts in the very first steps! Considering the amount of handling still required this is a recipe for disaster. These are kit’s where the builder needs to plan ahead. Kit content and sprue shots. To save myself a whole bunch of work they are all conveniently available to view here: http://www.trumpeter-china.com/index.php?g=home&m=product&a=show&id=1250&l=en Compared to the Dragon versions the detail is a little ‘chunky’ in places and although there was no flash present there are a few pin holes, many of which will remain visible. There is also a fair bit of mould offset on many parts so seam clean-up will obliterate some detail. Along with the main problems already mentioned I will try and point out any further issues as I go along. The multi-part affair for the chassis is the same across all the Trumpeter kits with only minor differences across the variants. Whilst far more detailed than the Dragon equivalent it is a bit fiddly to assemble. Dragon kits sacrificed detail in this area but much of it is unseen once assembled and it is a much stronger sub assembly and saves at least a couple of hours of work. Following the instructions, we commence in step 1 with the gearbox. This is instructed to be fitted between the chassis legs. It is a heavy part and dangles between just one contact point on each side and does not actually provide any real structural rigidity. To make life easier it us far easier to construct the chassis components in step 2 with it left off. The flex in the chassis legs will accommodate it once the chassis frame is built up so let the assembly fully cure first. It is also recommended NOT to add the photo etch and plastic cab levers (parts D13, D38 and D54) until it is ready to receive the cab floor as they are easily damaged. The front leaf spring assembly connect the two chassis legs at the front and the flat rear tray (part WA15) connects them together at the rear. Part A41 shown in step 3 can be used in-between to aid alignment. The gearbox fits in-between, and it must sit perpendicular to the frame. It’s connection points to both chassis’ legs rely on just the tiny and imprecise ends of part A7. The weight of the gearbox tends to make it droop rearwards making both chassis legs in the middle bend inwards at the top! Not the best engineering as the gearbox needs to align in one direction to accept both winch and engine shaft in later steps! The only reference for lining up the gearbox straight is to sight it up using the two holes in the legs behind the sprocket housings. TBH the upper middle parts of both legs have way too much flex and don’t get any rigidity until the fuel tank in step 7 is attached. There’s plenty of manhandling beforehand so handle with care! Step 3 connects the myriad of parts that connects the suspension pick up points. Plenty of clean-up is needed especially on parts D23 and D24 so dry fitting everything before committing placement is recommended. There are also two small pieces of photoetch to add in this step and they need to be assembled correctly as the holes in them accept the winch housing. Progress to step 3 so far.

I mentioned in my Panther tank build thread that I had obtained one of these cheap via eBay recently. I was on a group zoom meeting last night and while listening to the goings on I started to idly take parts of the sprues and clean them up. That said aside from the 3 crew members there are only about 10 parts in the whole kit. Having bid on and won the kit I did some online research and managed to find a couple of really good photos and some line drawings which gave me quite a bit of detail. I started to assemble it this morning and although basic with the detail Emhar did get quite a bit of it right. As always thought there are things to add and others to improve upon. First the wheels. Emhar managed to mould the spokes the wrong way around with the wide bit of the spokes facing the axle end. The only way that I could think of to improve this was to add some sips of 0.8mm half round styrene section to each spoke either side and because the centre hubs were lacking too I added disks of styrene to each hub. These are still working in progress. The kit is made from a light grey plastic and pretty much all of the added detail is white styrene making it really difficult to photograph. Next I moved on to the gun itself where I started by drilling out the barrel. Next I added oval foot plates to the stirrup foot rests on either side of the shield. The drawing I have shows what looks like canvas covered seats either side. Probably little more than bags of hay or straw, so I shaped a couple of pieces of styrene and covered them in lens tissue to simulate canvas bags/covers. I removed the moulded breach lever because Emar had moulded it in the middle of the breach but photos show it as being on the left hand side. I added an elevation screw from an offcut of 10ba screw with a slice of tube to simulate the adjustments nut/handle. On the rear of the carriage I added the reinforcement plate and some rivets made from punched foil and brace bars from 0.7mm brass rod. There are still some details to add before painting and this is proving to be very good value entertainment for the £10 inc. postage that I have in it.

Well now, I've been desperate to get started on my Miniart Panzer III Ausf B for weeks, so I'm really pleased to finally be starting this little Opel Kadett car. I don't know what happened either! I think @Phil1960 and his Citroen are to blame, alongside my fear of tackling any of the 'full interior' tank kits that I can't resist buying. So my first 'full interior' will be a few seats, a steering wheel, and a few pedals. It looks to be a fun little thing to build, let's hope I get to step 20 - glueing the roof on and sealing up the interior - without too much anguish It doesn't look very sporty. 129 parts according to the box. Some of it looks very fragile, and lots of potential crookedness if the panels don't go together well. There's a nice little engine that I might need to show off. The front axle looks too narrow on this picture. We shall see! I hate rubber tyres, so I've got these. They're meant for an ICM kit but I'm hoping that they fit OK.