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nick last won the day on September 30 2012

nick had the most liked content!


About nick

  • Birthday 12/28/1964

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    North Wales
  • Interests
    WWII Aviation, Big Iron Jets, AFV, Cars

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  1. ooh, you bought one then? nice. The block, oil pan, heads and valve covers look identical to the 308/F40 as it happens. I'm liking the 1/4 scale idea and all the ironmongery/gaskets at that size. I trust you will winding that armature in the alternator! How did he do the rolled bottom edge on the oil filter that looks really nice. Love to see it finished, beautiful kit in fairness. Regards, Nick
  2. Hi all, Happy New Year! In case you've been wondering where I've been, I realised at Christmas that during my recent frenzy of CAD and 3D printing, I hadn't actually built a model all year. So to put that right, I promised myself I would build something quick, Out Of the Box and ban myself from printing anything. What could be better than an ultra-modern, hot-off-the-press kit to do that with then? OK so it's not quite out of the box, but I did stick to not printing anything! (which was really hard BTW) This is a really nice kit, although full of nasty ejector pin marks in awkward places. I may well revist/build another one with my printing stuff head on, although in fairness it's very good to start with. Aeroquip hoses are an obvious thing as are ratchet clamps for the fuel, actually the fuel cell iteslf could be better and all the fuel pump/filters are omitted, the carbon fibre footwells are impossible to form from the PE in the kit etc, etc. Any road, I have quite enjoyed building it which was the idea. BTW If you've got this kit, the seatbelt lengths are all wrong, I pointed this out to Italeri and they have issued a correction, which still seems a bit long IMHO but hey.
  3. Hi All, I've finished the base DFV now, so I treated myself to a few renders to celebrate I've realised that there are many variations in the castings for the oil and water pumps as well as the location of the mechanical fuel pump based on both time and vehicle adaptations. So I've got a reasonably accurate stand-alone engine here that I think works in own right, but I will definitely have to produce specific versions for specific cars, as I suspected to make the plumbing fit. I'll probably make gearboxes and suspension parts that require modification as a result too next. So I've got a Lotus 49B already, which isn't the best thing to start with as it's probably the worst Tamiya 1/12th F1 car they ever made. I do have a Brabham BT44 on order, so that's the most likely first victim!
  4. That may be true, I’ll measure it. Currently I’m toying with building the body too, the kit version is nasty. Nick
  5. Hi Frank I was considering printing some inserts for Ali tubes actually, so nearly! Happy New Year anyway!
  6. Here we go again. I feel duty bound to tackle the gearbox next as the Tamiya one is so far out. HOWEVER when I mock-up the drive shaft position from the tamiya item, it looks like this:- Now I understand why it's like this, and and here is the culprit What I don't understand is why they did this at all. For our younger viewers this was a world effectively without Radio control. OK it did exist but it was extremely primitive (anyone else old enough to remember the telephone dial stuff?) and expensive. So what we have here is an expensive kit for the day, with extremely fragile, spindly suspension holding big heavy wheels sticking out at each corner, with a kamikaze battery/electric motor setup that you can only turn off by reaching under the car, that would effectively smash itself to bits on the first thing it encountered trundling off in an uncontrolled straight-ish line? SO whilst I can correct the gearbox, it means all the suspension will be out. So I can either:- 1. put lipstick on a pig and make the tamiya gearbox geometry look a bit more 'busy' and use the kit suspension as is. or 2. Do it properly and make an accurate gearbox and then draw all the suspension too. If I did this I reckon I would need to make the driveshafts non-articulated so they would provide most of the mechanical strength to hold the wheels on. Course if I had my CNC machine, making all this form metal is the way to go. Those of who know me will already know I ain't going for option 1 This is the bloody Bentley all over again, as soon as you fix one thing you discover it knocks on and you end up remaking most of the model. Nick Watch this space.
  7. GT6 eh? I only recently sold my ‘76 spitfire. thanks for the kind words. I’m drawing the gearbox, but struggling to find anything at all on the ZF gearbox, so might have to with the slightly later Hewland version. Nick
  8. That’s really nice. I tried a similar approach with a fibreglass pencil. The trouble I found was that the tool deteriorates quite quickly and keeping it consistent was a problem, looks like you managed to overcome this looking at your excellent results. Nick
  9. First Side of pumps mostly done now. Nick
  10. Just got the Oil and Water pumps to do now. oh yeah and inevitably the gearbox and electrical box. Nick
  11. Placed an order with chronos now, so will let you know. The jig works well in fairness, the tips I was using, not so much, so didn’t post any images. Nick
  12. Yes I’m coming around to this idea. I’ve just been reading that the injectors were prone to leaking under full pressure, unburnt fuel would end up in the slide throttle plates I guess, so this arrangement could be a fuel scavenging setup. do you have anything showing where it connects to the metering unit, that would clinch it! thanks for you help so far! regards Nick
  13. Yes agree, the front two are. There is a third behind them that goes to the tube on the slide plate. You can see a red blank on the opposite hand slide plate. Can’t see that would be fuel too really? Nick
  14. Thanks for the tip, I assumed that would be a bit too severe? But I’ll give it a go. I have a full-sized drill press so the shank shouldn’t be a problem. Chronos have got a nice little set of endmills that goes down to 1/16th so that should work. Nick
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