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nick

Gold Member
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nick last won the day on September 30 2012

nick had the most liked content!

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About nick

  • Rank
    There's always more model than week
  • Birthday 12/28/1964

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Wales
  • Interests
    WWII Aviation, Big Iron Jets, AFV, Cars, Bikes, Dioramas, RC Helis and AC, Photography - most things really and all scales

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  1. Forgot to mention, for cylinders, draw two concentric circles on the bottom contact face, one slightly smaller than the outer diameter, one slightly bigger than the inner diameter and extrude this thin walled cylinder into your base (0.2mm is all you need for base thickness BTW) This is much stronger than conventional supports, easier to remove and doesn’t suffer from elephant foot. Plus the step proves a cutting/sanding guide. that’s the steps you can see on my example, on all the cylinders finally with different angles, as in my example, just extrude all the supports longer than required, then just ‘capture’ them all with the rectangle of the base, extrude up to the desired print height, then cut all the junk left underneath when you make the base .2mm thick. hope that makes sense. Have fun. Nick.
  2. Looking good. I have learnt not use chitubox for generating supports, it’s imprecise and the scarring is difficult to remove, especially on round sections like yours. I now just redraw my parts for printing with supports as part of the model like this This isn’t the best example, but can you see I have a narrow rectangular ‘blade’ supporting the hex sections? This is on a flat face, so can be removed without scarring and goes to a large thin flat base. I would do this for most of the lengths of your round sections, it means they won’t sag or distort during printing, the model can be less tall and quicker to print. I then remove with a razor saw leaving a tiny amount to scrape/sand to the final profile. another advantage is that I can print parts flat with my ‘blades’ technique, as most suction failures happen when the small support contact dots rip away. The blades are much stronger and connected to base as large as you want to make it, and the forces are more evenly distributed too, so your latest parts could be flattened with maybe 20 - 30% of the length connected by blades to a base. great work anyway, love what you’re doing here. Nick
  3. I’m a UAV pilot rather than marine pilot, and Im surveying the Mersey river wall effectively flying continuously with a chase vessel. Our utility boat was stuck the wrong side of the locks so we pressed one of the pilot boats into service. Nick
  4. Work is getting in the way of my modelling this week! Regards Nick
  5. Oh yeah XJS! I had that too, mine was gold. Made a terrible job if it I seem to remember.
  6. Yeah, I had one of these about 100 years ago too! I remember all the coloured/clear light bulbs that came with it as well as the ‘gold-plated’ candy twist roof supports. what a great kit I’d forgotten about. Nick
  7. This is looking great. I approve of your invaders of course! regards, Nick
  8. I’m going to make a start on the decals next week which shouldn’t take that long, then I’m in danger of actually finishing this crazy project, who would have though it? thanks to everyone who had supported me, I couldn’t have done it without your help, encouragement and constant praise. regards Nick
  9. I truly wish I had even 1/4 (sorry .25!) of you skills. this one of nicest and most skilful models I’ve ever seen on here. regards Nick
  10. What everyone else said already. How the hell do you get metal to do that? Very, very impressive indeed. in awe. Nick
  11. FINALLY! I've cracked how to bend a complex shape, in this case the rubber boots on the injectors. My problem was, I was trying to do this in fusion. Turns out you can't. I drew a ‘straight’ version of the boot in fusion, easy enough:- I then exported this as a .obj which I pulled into blender. Blender has a simple deform modifier tool with bend, which I had to learn how to use. Then exported as .obj which fusion now treats as a mesh, smoothed it a bit and added to the backshell. It's not great as the imported mesh is too complex to convert back into a solid, so I can't edit it in fusion anymore, but it doesn't matter as I can still generates a combined .stl for printing. Regards, Nick
  12. Stand today... entirely printed, and may prove to be a bit weak at scale thickness - we’ll see. I’m currently grappling with bending my fusion 360 objects in blender for all the rubber boots on the electrical connectors. So far this is the only thing I’ve found I can’t do in fusion 360. They are quite complex tapered convoluted things, which I’ve drawn, but when ‘deployed’ they have a 180° bend in them, which fusion can’t really pull off regards Nick
  13. For some light relief, I noticed the pedestal on my new wash/cure station was a bit loose, so I whipped the bottom plate off to tighten it up. couldn’t help but notice the fan manufacturer, I can only assume there was a limited market for it’s original purpose? regards Nick
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