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nick

Gold Member
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nick last won the day on September 30 2012

nick had the most liked content!

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About nick

  • Rank
    There's always more model than week
  • Birthday 12/28/1964

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Wales
  • Interests
    WWII Aviation, Big Iron Jets, AFV, Cars, Bikes, Dioramas, RC Helis and AC, Photography - most things really and all scales

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  1. I think I’ve solved my paint problem by thoroughly cleaning everything with trusty MR muscle foaming oven cleaner, using latex gloves to handle from that point, sitting in thinners for a bit after that, (the bike parts, not me, that would be strange) then priming with Mr Metal primer. Which is completely weird by the way, as it’s clear and you can’t see where you’ve applied - why would you want primer to be clear? Don’t get it. anyway, left everything to properly harden for a long time, hence the delay in posting, and the paint is adhering well. pictures to follow.
  2. Italeri have run my model on their Facebook page today:- https://www.facebook.com/454765391262753/posts/3596605913745336/
  3. Just been reading up on priming white metal. Turns out I don’t need etching primer as it has no effect on non ferrous metals. Looks like I maybe just haven’t cleaned my surfaces enough before priming. going to try a process of prepping with a suede brass brush, scrubbing with a soft brush and Vim (an ancient scouring product in the UK!) then washing with thinners. Then the rattle cans I have already should stick, I’m reliably informed by the live steam loco building fraternity - their paint does need to stick properly and they use a lot of white metal, so I’m banking on then knowing what they are talking about! They also say it’s important to warm everything up too BTW. let’s see how I get on.
  4. A bit more progress, although slow - the cylinder heads particularly are a bugger to cleanup it turns out and I'm having to saw some of the fin details in which is hair-raising to say the least. Really struggling with paint as well to be honest, I don't think my primer has enough bite for the white metal, stuff is chipping so easily it's ridiculous. I'm just using automotive rattle cans for primer which is usually fine, not today, I need to find something with more etch to it - suggestions anyone?
  5. That is a thing of beauty. Epic Build.
  6. J.A.Prestwich and Company Limited I'm reliable informed. Some more progress, I'm loving these chains:- Great construction method too, there's a jig in the kit and all the rollers come on a carrier, The photo etched links are completely separate from the plate they are made from and are just attached to a clear backing sheet, so no cleanup is required, We like. I've turned my attention to the cylinder bases now (see what I did there?) I've seen both black painted and polished versions, so I thought I would go for polished. The castings are far too soft to go in a chuck, so I made a tool to turn them in the lathe:- I then spun them up, taking a few thou off until there were no pits remaining Then polished with T-Cut again in the lathe, Quite happy with the result I'm still working on the fins of the cylinders. I've learnt already that this kit has more in common with my long running HMS Victory build that a normal kit from the likes of Tamiya. We are so used to just cutting a perfectly formed part off a sprue, cleaning it up a bit then painting it, so this thing comes as a bit of a shock. Every part is there, but each has to be treated as a mini project in itself, especially to prepare for paint, or it just looks terrible. With this kit, you are more or less making every part, not just assembling it. I quite like that to be honest. Stay tuned for the next exciting installment - possibly even featuring paint! Nick
  7. Well it's finally arrived from Japan - my MFH Brough! A surprisingly small box choc full of stuff, While I was waiting for it to arrive, I thought I'd 'get my eye in' with a very quick and dirty build of an Italeri Triumph 3HW to see what this 1/9th bike stuff is all about Rough as hell, so the less said about that the better. So to the matter at hand, I have been experimenting with the different finishes I can get with the white metal the kit is made from, by buffing, polishing, and using pigments and washes, and it's a surprising range in fairness, Needs more work, but way more shiny than I would have thought possible given the starting point on the right Used a mixture of techniques to get the patina on the main casing cylinder base is polished and dipped in Klear More to follow! Regards, Nick
  8. Yes I know where it goes and even what it looks like, there is pretty much unlimited info on this car over on scale motor cars (go there at your peril, the stuff those boys make will make you weep and give up) I was basically too lazy to do anything about it. This project was only ever really for the look of thing, so I didn't set out to be super accurate - that will be kit bashed Pocher or scratch version if I ever get round to either!
  9. OK Calling this done now:- Quite like the kit, good overall fit and the proportions look right to me. A few misses:- The fuel tank is omitted completely, which I really should have done something about:- Cockpit floor was a weird made-up chequer plate affair:- that I replaced with plain ali sheet, as previously mentioned, not right either I know as it should have raised ribs, but still and improvement over the kit item :- Quite a few ejector pin marks in tricky places, and areas of wooly detail, but overall pretty good. Here's some shots of the finished model:- I may still have a go at making some wire wheels, haven't decided yet! I have a MFH Brough Superior winging its to me as we speak, so stand by for the next major project! regards, Nick
  10. I’m going to scratch build the wheels, I’ve got form with wire wheels I made these for my DR1 some years ago
  11. That's a beautiful build - why not photo etch the pedals? (or faces at least) that would be really easy in half etch nickel as it's all the same relief? I'll knock up a CAD drawing for you if you give me accurate dimensions and shape for the pedals, there is an outfit in the UK that will etch one-off sheets fairly inexpensively - I think I paid around £40 for a 1/2 etch A5 brass sheet last time I used them.
  12. A bit more progress. The festive season is dead handy for getting ali sheet in the form of disposable turkey roasting tins - which is what my cockpit floor is made of Also had a general tidy up and worked on the chassis finish a little.
  13. HI all, not really a WIP, just some shots of a half built model. After a long break from modelling I fancied the newly released Alfa from Italeri. It's OK. Fit is very good, sink marks not so good. Detail is pretty good too overall. Anyway, here's where I'm up to:- So far I've:- Drilled out all of the kit 'bolts' indistinct plastic blobs, and replaced them with proper resin items Drilled out the core plugs, built up the outers and fitted brass core plugs turned 4 ali filler caps for the rocker covers and 2 for the engine block replaced the ignition leads with braided cord scratch built clips for the distributor cap scratch built air filter from PE mesh scratch build braided lines and banjo connector for the oil pump. added braided cable from the rocker covers to the bulkhead - rev counter I assume, although not sure why there would be two? Lots of alcad and hopefully subtle washes, I'm going for old but not dirty which is tricky to pull off. More to follow no doubt. Eventually I think I will turn some proper wire wheels, and replace the kit leaf springs and dampers with something better - but go with the kit items for now. Thanks for looking, Nick
  14. Hi everyone, So doing some spring cleaning and decorating and dropped the DR-1 down for a good clean. While I was at it, I thought I would take some decent photos:- ] Thanks for looking, Nick
  15. I'm aware the ladder is the wrong side, it's not fixed and I set the model up to replicate the original photo. As I didn't have time to re-pose it before collection, and had built the ladder anyway, I thought I would include it in the shot. I'm also aware the cable ducts should be extended for the firestreaks as well. It's a reasonable representation of the photo, nothing more. Nick
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