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tank152 last won the day on January 1 2013
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About tank152
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Burton on Trent.
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Late war Luftwaffe.
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1/48 - North American P-51B/C Mustang by Eduard - P-51B released
tank152 replied to Homebee's topic in The Rumourmonger
Oh really, maybe you ought to search out a photo of the real thing before making criticisms. Looks pretty accurate to me.🙂 -
Just noticed this one. https://www.facebook.com/share/p/KqDfZ8KLMWstiykP/ High back Mk XIV, hopefully 🙏
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tank152 started following 777-300 , Tiger 1 Early Production Full Interior - USTAR 1/48 , Yes, a Triple 1/32 Border Models Lancaster Build... and 7 others
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Hurricane L2047.... more "accurate" research from Xtradecal... *sigh*
tank152 replied to Troy Smith's topic in Aircraft WWII
If you go back and re read that post you'll see that the poster never mentioned the prop tips would be finished in bare metal! He said scraped back to bare metal in other words worn back to it. Looking at the frontal view it certainly looks very worn. The blade tip just about the ground looks dark not dissimilar to the outer roundel.. Whilst it is blindingly obvious the spinner is wrong in the profile the outer ring on the fuselage roundel isn't. I also suggest the very vast majority of modellers who purchase that decal sheet won't give a monkey's if either are wrong. 😏 -
Hawker Tempest Mk.II (Special Hobby, 1/32)
tank152 replied to Lorebor's topic in Ready for Inspection - Aircraft
Thats a bit special. 👌 -
It's even riveted, superb. Will definitely be up for one of those. 👍🏻👍🏻
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Don't overlook the 2 volumes of D-Day Then and Now. Take a look here to get an idea what's in them.
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Available from the 24th of this month.
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My preference is to prime before riveting and afterwards use a 4000 sanding sponge. To mark the lines out I use this. https://www.premiumhobbies.co.uk/measuring/hiq-parts-mass-tool-8-pieces I just cut a strip off and place on my model the grids are in .5mm so are ideal for marking out rivet line spacings. I then draw the lines in using a pencil and piece of flexible Tamiya masking tape. I also use Rosie Riveter tools. I very rarely redo them all, once is enough!
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Done! Thanks for bringing that to my attention Mike, I never realised, sorry for any offence caused.
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Email Eduard and tell them about the canopies, they'll probably want a photo of them. Their after sales is second to none. They'll replace them for you.
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On this the 80th Anniversary I thought I share some photos I took when I visited a few years back. The memorial that straggles the hull of the USS Arizona. The entrance. All the names of the men who lost their life, most still in the wreck. The mooring buoy of the Arizona. The above 2 photos show parts of the deck visible just under the surface. Looking down Battleship Row, again part of the hull is visible. The mooring buoy of USS Vestal, a repair ship that was moored outboard of the USS Arizona.
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You forgot to add the bits used from the salvaged B-24!
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The difference is people such as David Brown have use of the actual print and not something that has been shared countless times over the Internet each time of which would have altered the tones etc. Discussion such as this is fun and nothing else i'm afraid. As someone who has worked in the steel industry all my life I can assure you that by varying the angle of what you take the photo the same piece of steel can be made to look polar opposites. Also the grain in a sheet of steel would also make the sheen look completely different if it was at 90° to another sheet. So you could have 2 panels cut from the same sheet and look completely different to each other when photographed. That is my take when you see photos of wing under surfaces.