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      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".

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Found 16 results

  1. Up to recently I have been using Tamiya fine primer rattle cans for priming - sadly with asthma and a heavy cold this is proving problematic (plus all the over-spray and fine particulates that they leave behind!) I am trying to move over to acrylic primers such as the ultimate primers or the Vallejo primers. Sadly I was unable to pick up any ultimate primers at Cosford yesterday, but I do have in my possession some Vallejo primer. Now I have tried using these previously but didn't get on with them following the recommended instructions (clogging etc). Now would anyone recommend thinning these primers at all? At the moment all I have is some ultimate thinner, but there is a place locally I can get some Vallejo thinner (not much else from there but at least I can get the thinner and cleaner!) At what ratio would most people generally thin at? I have found when using my airbrush, and what acrylic paint I'm using (Tamiya, xtracrylic, humbrol) my starting point is a 50/50 mix, but have no idea with the primers so any help would be appreciated. Thanks john.
  2. Primers Ammo by Mig Jimenez There are a plethora of different manufacturers primers on the market these days and Mig Jimenez has release three more in the AMMO One Shot range. Each of the three primers, white, grey and black are self levelling and water based. They have been designed to preserve the detail and to dry with a hard, flat finish. Fortunately, unlike some products they have little or no smell. You should clean the kit parts of any residue from the moulding process, but this isn’t always necessary as these primers should adhere to the plastic, or any other material such as resin or PE without problem. To use you just shake the bottle well before decanting into the airbrush cup and spraying at around 20-30 PSI in thin coats until the model or parts are fully coated. Once complete clean the airbrush out with you preferred cleaner, or you can use AMMO’s own A.MIG.2001 cleaner. White Grey Black Conclusion These are really nice primers and although I’ve only done some test pieces with them they do indeed level nicely and dry to a hard enough finish to be able to sand if required. Review sample courtesy of
  3. Good Afternoon Everyone, I'd like to ask what you think of Badger's Stynylrez primer. I tried it on a scrap kit for the first time today, and was a bit disappointed. It's a bit thicker than I expected, but that's not the problem, it just does not appear to cover as well as my Vallejo polyurethane primers. I sprayed through my Badger 200 at 20 psi, I usually spray the Vallejo primer at 15 psi. Don't get me wrong, I don't think Stynyrez is bad, but if any of you have used it, I'd like to know what you think, particularly if it needs a little thinning. Best Wishes, Will.
  4. Hey Folks, just a quick question, which one of these Primer is in your opinion the best one? Alclad: or Ultimate: Is this stuff good for applying decals:
  5. Having just started using PE on some builds, I would like to know what is the best primer for priming the said PE. I use enamel paints for normal painting.
  6. Hey, I am searching for a good primer and tips how to do this in the best looking way. I heared from some people, that using the primer wasn´t that efficient, is that true? I would be very glad, if you visit my other topic. It is very urgently . For the glossy top coat, I have no idea, because of the many other opinions in forums. I searched a lot on the internet today and saw the Alcad II Primer and Microfiler. Is this a good choice? Is it airbrush ready? - L.B. I apologize for beeing so dumb. I started this topic in the wrong section. Thank you for moving my topic
  7. Hi guys i bave recently got into airbrushing so i am getting to grips with priming my models i was just wondering do i need to thin the vallejo primer or should i spray from the bottle ? and if so what PSI should i be spraying ? thanks brandon
  8. Have used Halfords primer for years,it is probably the best by far-recently have ruined several models using alclad,which I used to swear by too. Now,despite the half dozen + airbrushes I own,I think I'll stick to rattle cans for primer. It works,and doesn't fall off. Has anyone tried any of the alternatives out there? I saw some from Simoniz on ebay,atleast it is a name I know,and at around £5 for 500ml instead of Halfords £7.50. Has anyone tried it? Before anyone mentions the Poundland stuff,don't. It is **** and the smell is something else-I can stand most paint smells but this is the worst I have ever come across.It is very dark,almost black,and glossy.And it doesn't stick that well. All suggestions welcome,except standing in a bowl of custard while dressed as a nun. mtd
  9. Hello chaps, I'm looking for some tips on achieving the best results with Zero Paints primers - black in this instance. My first attempt has resulted in a rather rough (almost sandpaper) finish, so presumably it's drying before it hits the surface - should I thin it with some lacquer thinner? Any thoughts or experiences that might help me? Thanks in advance. Andrew
  10. I have a build to do which has a mix of NMF and white finishes. Unfortunately there is no cheatline, to demark the separations between the white and NMF finishes, so thought I would ask in what order others do their painting. Normally, I would use Tamiya's grey primer base for the whole model; however, the NMF will be in Alclad and using their black as a primer. I think the white would still have the grey primer but not certain on this. My queries are: - is there an order of priming and painting mixes of media? i.e. alclad primer and NMF first, then standard primer and white followed - or vice-versa? - what is the best method for masking/demarking the NMF and white? I'm concerned about bleed/overrun of the two mediums - is there a 'special' way to paint NMF and white mixed liveries on models? I would be very grateful for any helpful advice on this; I've been building and painting models for over 50 years but NMF is a newbie for me. Mike
  11. At Wonderland Models, we will be stocking the Mr Hobby range of surfacing products, including Mr Surfacer primers, putties and masking fluid. Mr Surfacer has gained a reputation for superb quality within the modelling community, and is regarded by many as the very best micro-fillers and primers. Our first delivery of Mr Hobby modelling accessories is due to arrive this week. MaskingM132 - Mr Hobby Mr Masking Sol Neo 20ml PuttyP118 - Mr Hobby Mr White Putty 30ml P119 - Mr Hobby Mr Dissolved Putty 40ml Surfacer 40ml PotsSF283 - Mr Hobby Mr Base White 1000 Primer 40ml SF284 - Mr Hobby Mr Surfacer 1000 Primer 40ml SF285 - Mr Hobby Mr Surfacer 500 Primer 40ml SF286 - Mr Hobby Mr Surfacer 1200 Primer 40ml SF287 - Mr Hobby Mr Primer Surfacer 1000 Grey Primer 40ml SF288 - Mr Hobby Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black Primer 40ml SF289 - Mr Hobby Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 Grey Primer 40ml MP242 - Mr Hobby Mr Metal Primer 40ml Surfacer SpraysB504 - Mr Hobby Mr Metal Primer Spray 100ml B505 - Mr Hobby Mr Surfacer 1000 Primer Spray 100ml B506 - Mr Hobby Mr Surfacer 500 Primer Spray 100ml B511 - Mr Hobby Mr Surfacer 1000 White Primer Spray 170ml B515 - Mr Hobby Mr Surfacer 1200 Primer Spray 170ml B518 - Mr Hobby Mr Base White 1000 Primer Spray 180ml B519 - Mr Hobby Mr Surfacer 1000 Primer Spray 170ml B524 - Mr Hobby Mr Primer Surfacer 1000 Grey Primer Spray 170ml B526 - Mr Hobby Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black Primer Spray 170ml B527 - Mr Hobby Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 Grey Primer Spray 170ml
  12. I am currently building, in 1/72, the Airfix Chipmunk and Airfix FW 190. I have dealt with the seams and joins and have sprayed on a few coats of Vallejo primer, (thinned 80/20). It has gone on lovely, nice and smooth with good coverage etc. However, my problems have now begun! I have found a few visible seams and the odd area where extra filler was needed etc. Having applied more filler and sanding back to smooth the primer has peeled/flaked off in small areas. This is the first time that I have used Vallejo primer. I wanted a suitable primer that can be put through my airbrush with a simple clean up and not too smelly, as that bothers Mrs L! I had read various reviews and was aware that some have found that Vallejo can peel away so I lightly sanded the surface before application to give the paint a key etc. I’m looking for some advice on a few issues, firstly the cause. Have I thinned it too much/not enough? Or when sanding back the primer have I used a too course grade and simple scratched it off? Secondly what to do now, sand it all off of try or feather the edges? When I try to feather the edges it just seems to get bigger would it be easier to get a fine sander and take it all back to the plastic and start again. Thanks in advance. Leon
  13. What airbrush cleaner should I use for Alclad Grey Primer and Micro Filler, the Alclad airbrush cleaner stuff is crazy expensine for such a small bottle. Can I use Isopropyl Alcohol/Isopropanol (99%)? What do you guys use?
  14. "Apply 3 or 4 thin coats of paint" is something I often see and it is always something that....well call me thick.....I just can't get my head around. To do a 'Wash' 4 parts thinner to 1 part paint add let dry wipe off, OK get that. To do a 'Glaze' 5 parts thinner to 1 part paint, apply over small areas to change the tone of the colour, OK get that. I gather that by the dilution the above is classed as "Thin" paint. Applying this logic to a kit does this mean that if I am applying a thin primer, it would be a similar dilution say 3 or 4 parts thinner to 1 part paint and so on for applying solid colurs like say a blue to the underside of an aircraft? And in doing so by applying more coats of this very dilute paint would then build the colour up to the intensity or tone that you require?
  15. Hi everyone, I am working on a 1/32 red arrows hawk and have so far found that the paint isn't covering particularly well. I have already given the parts a wash over with a small amount of washing up liquid and warm water to help the paint adhere but it hasn't worked. I have been looking for a not to expensive primer and have seen the humbrol grey primer, has anyone used it ? Cheers, Rick
  16. I finally want to try Mr Surfacer, often recommended by many people as a great product. I tried Hiroboy first, but they are out of stock. Yesterday I called into the Plymouth branch of Antics, and the first assistant I spoke to hadn't even heard of Gunze Sangyo or the "Mr" range of paint products... I go there very occasionally for a browse but I have to say they are usually very disappointing, and their prices aren't much cop either... Can anyone recommend a source for Mr Surfacer? Is the Tamiya aerosol similar product as good, or at least worth trying? Thanks, Tony