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About mollythedog

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  • Birthday 06/19/1958

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    a black hole
  • Interests
    Royal Navy, USN, scratchbuilding, FAA, learning to photograph model subjects better........

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  1. This is far as I've got on this,though there are several "modules" still not shown. I guess you can refer to aircraft as "modules" when thinking of aircraft carriers,as they make up the main weapons system. mtd
  2. Thanks for all the encouraging comments. As I have said on a number of occasions,the size of the model doesn't really apply,if you want to make something then just treat it as "blocks" and scale accordingly, whether 1/200 or 1/1250 makes little difference,except of course that in larger scales you can work in much more detail. But a model is a model in the end. Except when it's a dogs dinner that is. The thing continues to fight me, even just trying to photo a hull proved beyond my lighting and photo set up,it is just a teeny bit too big to really fit the background. Apologies for
  3. I think that both the white and terracotta were made for repairing china and pottery. Have never used the latter,hated the white one, horrible. You are correct about the crust on the darker one,removed and you have fresh stuff underneath,but by that stage the light one is going "off"-it refuses to mix and combine with the dark one, just sticks to your fingers and everything but the other part. It has had it. Also when applying the second layer to the first it helps to moisten your finger,tool or whatever so that the mixed milliput sticks to the stuff already in place and not you. Like you I ha
  4. Sorry, when I said "dogs dinner" I wasn't being self effacing just saying that my builds are usually much "cleaner" and more streamlined than this dogs dinner.Which it is. But it did start looking more like what I wanted once I got to building a couple of bridges. This is a metal casting with the etch added. Forgive the rough look,this was the first try,and in my haste I used a can of white primer,instead of the normal grey,and worse,the tin was almost empty,so it has a spattered pebble dash look that is the paint and not the casting or etch. It had to be simplified a bit in 1/1250 but I tried
  5. I have read some of the comments here with interest. I have been using Milliput for about 25 years. It is not perfect, it does have some issues,but here are some tips that will help. 1) Use the cheapest "Grey/Green" one,forget the rest.Just don't...... 2) Try to buy some from a place with high turnover,like an art or sculptors suppliers (Tirantis for example)- it ages and if is has sat on a shelf or display for years it will be past it,it isn't date stamped or anything so the only way is to buy it as fresh as possible. 3) Keep the sticks well closed in their
  6. Thanks. Moving on to 2018 I finally bit the bullet and decided to finish this thing. One day. So the bridge was finished and cast,and the etch test fitted-some of the main bits anyway,there's quite a lot of it.....I am no draughtsman and had to redraw the etch 3 times, each time paying to have it etched (not that expensive, really) and the photo tool and set up (quite expensive for very short run things). The real ship is a bitch to model,with a hull shaped by a committee of madmen high on some sort of glue,and this just kept stopping me from getting a real "bite" without just hitting a wall
  7. Been a while away from here, just busy with models. Seems that most have found more time to get to projects what with all this lockdown stuff. Has made little difference to my daily routine to be honest,and where I am has been barely touched,it seems,by World events.So far. Started on this thing more years ago than I care to remember,certainly more than 15 years since I first "laid down" the hull. Has gone in fits and starts over the years,and been rebuilt and hacked about continuously. Anyway, might be on the home straight with it now,so thought I'd show some of it. Entirely scra
  8. For cutting acrylic you can find sets of cutting discs on ebay- I bought my wife a fancy German sewing machine cubby hole thingy that has a spring loaded "lift" that pops up and down.It has a thick acrylic (or perspex maybe) plate that is meant to fit snugly around the sewing machine.It is about 5mm thick,and the one she had wasn't correct for her machine. I bought a set of these steel blades which are made from about 1mm steel,and in a Dremel they cut the plastic pretty well. Use masking tape to mark/guide/protect the surface. You'll have to try different speeds of both tool and cut.
  9. If you are going to be running a lot of wires you might want to consider using some of the very fine silicon wire sold by The Component Shop-very thin and flexible and available in a number of colours. I, have used it in several R/ C projects and it works very well. Keeping track of different circuits via colours is helpful too. I like the boiler effect. I think these kits are not exactly state of the art so it leaves you a fairly clean slate to add as much detail and doo-dahs as you like,
  10. My condolences on your loss,it is a shock when it happens, so suddenly too. I just lost my Dad in a similar fashion-certainly time devoted to a hobby when possible is a great help in taking your mind off things,for a bit at least. It is nice to see an RN sub being modelled-it looks a nice kit, I look forward to seeing how it turns out in its natural element.
  11. Good luck with this,a handful but the subject merits the commitment,
  12. Thanks.but Im not sure what you are trying to point out to me....I know which posts I want to edit but I cant see how. Apologies but am trying to type on german keyboard and cant find any punctuation. Apart from full stop....all I want to do is replace the old useless bb codes from photobucket with new ones from flikr so that the photos display as they should, It must be possible to to do this surely.
  13. I have been away for a while,and came back to find a topic I'd like to add to-by linking one of my old posts with photos of the subject in question. Unfortunately I found that a) I'd used photobucket and they are "gone" and b) I can't see any way of going back into each post and replacing the photos with ones uploaded to Flikr. Can it be done? It would be time consuming but I'd like to do it if possible, I suspect there are some others I might want to update with Flikr,and in the future it that goes t*ts up replace it with whatever free photo hosting site going. Any ideas? Thanks i
  14. I really like this,very nice work on an old kit and proof that you don't need wood decks,photo etch or metal barrels to make a splendid model. mtd
  15. Thanks to everyone for the kind remarks and compliments. I hope I can show that if you put some effort in, just about anything can be made, and it doesn't have to be kit related. Luckily on BM there seem to be a number of others that agree and do much the same,though to a very high standard,and in the "normal" scales. As I mentioned previously,this is still a WIP and at the same time I built the Attacker I finished a second prototype to represent Battler, a little later time wise,but still with the same weapons fit. Both models were finished in time to take to a model show,and it w
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