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Found 60 results

  1. Afternoon all Sitting here looking at the rain. My set of projects all on hold due to many supply and painting issue's (also l can't face the Sturer Emil at the moment....., it's gonna be a long one) So, I decided to have a time filler in between while waiting. Picked this up when I lived in the States in 2003. Never got round to moving further than a few parts on the chassis. I bought it to see what AFV Club was like. It's not Tamiya, but nice so far. Not a crisp detail on the small parts, and a little error ridden in the instruction sheet. But nothing that can't be over come. Doing research on the web, and not too many images for reference. I'll keep looking, as it's nice to have something to work towards. I have the AFV Club PE set for it, and at the time the Friulmodel tracks for a Hanomag 250 which this one is based on. A cheap version at wars end. Not sure if I will use these Friuls. I might make use of the tracks that came with it and see if I can get track sag without. Have to see. Anyway, have a good afternoon all. Regards Simon.
  2. AFV Club new items 2018

    For the aircraft part, nothing more than what was previously announced: two-seats F-CK-1D Ching Kuo (link) & Hesa Saeqeh-80 (link). Source: https://www.facebook.com/AFVCLUB.TW/photos/a.237327066312820.56570.236926266352900/1628070587238454/?type=3&theater V.P.
  3. My entry for this GB will be AFV Club's M10 Tank destroyer. Unlikely to start for a couple of weeks, need to finish my entry in the F-104 STGB first.
  4. Churchill 3" Gun Tank with Snake Launcher (DH96006) 1:35 Ding-Hao Hobby The Churchill tank was named after Winnie, who once he realised it wasn't a particularly good tank, wasn’t very pleased with his namesake. It was a cruiser class tank intended to replace the Matilda, and was designed with the last war in mind, as were many of the British early war designs, so was under-armed and under-armoured. Many changes and variants later it was still having problems, and its terrible performance during the ill-fated and poorly prepared Dieppe landings sealed its reputation as a poor design. The post D-Day variants were at least capable of penetrating enemy armour, but as with the Sherman, it struggled with the more heavily armoured Tiger and Panther tanks unless it was at close range. A variant of the chassis was used to create a gun carriage, with a 3" howitzer ball-mounted horizontally in a casemate and protected by thicker armour. Because of the Sherman Fireflies with their superior gun however, they didn't see action, and some were converted to carry the experimental Snake mine-clearing system, which was a development of the Bangalore Torpedo, and fired a line of rockets across the battlefield, detonating the charges within to clear a path for tanks and troops to advance. Sixteen Snake tubes were carried on each sponson over the tracks and extending their full length. The 3" gun was removed and replaced with a blanking plate to reduce the all-up weight and prevent draughts. It wasn't deployed on the battlefield, although its successor Conger did see some deployment, encountering problems with premature detonation, possibly due to the vulnerability of the explosives in such an exposed position. The Kit Ding-Hao are the specialist arm of well-known model company AFV Club, and this is a retooling of their Churchill kit that was released early this decade, with additional sprues added to create the casemate and rocket tubes. It arrives in a brown cardboard box with black overprinting that gives a little background to the company name, and what its aims are, describing the kit as "Collector Grade". The kit specific details are found on a wrap-around cover that shows printed pictures of a complete model, plus the bonus resin figure that is in the box. The box has a captive lid that hinges back, revealing quite a lot of plastic in the box. The Churchill base kit parts are all double-bagged along with the resin figure, and the variant specific parts are separate in their own bags, so there's going to be a lot of crinkly bags to dispose of once you unwrap the kit. There are seventeen sprues in olive green styrene, a clear sprue, two rubbery tracks, four small frets of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, a length of cord, twenty two short springs used in the suspension, a small decal sheet and of course the instruction booklet. The bonus figure is made from cream resin and is supplied in four parts, which fit together very snugly. Construction begins predictably with the suspension and road wheels, utilising all those real springs to give the suspension functionality. It is a little complicated, so take care and follow the instructions, testing the fit as you go. There are a lot of parts, and the working suspension adds another layer of complexity, as well as increasing the part count. The drive sprockets and idler wheels are added at the ends of the sponsons along with access doors and additional parts, after which the two assemblies are joined by attaching the hull floor and lower section of the rear bulkhead. The bulkhead is then decked out with towing hitches, light clusters and radiator parts, with the aft section of the engine deck added on top in two parts after they are detailed with hatches and grab rails. The glacis consists of a thick front plate, and a sloped plate onto which the headlamps are glued, then fire extinguishers, exhausts and their armoured shrouds are attached, then the fenders are installed on the tops of the sponsons after adding the flexible plastic/rubbery tracks, which show a surprisingly good level of detail for their type and moulding era. You can of course replace them with the usual white-metal tracks to get the correct faceted look and weathering opportunities, but that's your choice! Engine intake boxes are fabricated from styrene and PE, then applied to the slots on the sponson sides, with styrene mudguards front and rear that have PE accessories added for scale fidelity. It seems a little out-of-sequence at this stage, but the rear panel that forms the back of the Snake boxes as attached by two faux-bolts to the towing eyes, gluing only the bolts at this stage. Tiny PE firing harnesses are added to the rear of each of the firing pins, with a photo showing how they should be arranged once complete. A quartet of British style jerry cans are attached to the rear fenders, and attention then turns to the casemate. The crew compartment is made up from flat armour just like the real thing, and has a PE blanking plate for the gun mount on the thick mantlet, which glues in from behind. Hatches, commander's cupola and vents are also added before it is dropped into the long hole in the hull, and this is where you find out whether you've managed to build the assembly square or not. It might be best to test this before the glue is dry however, when it will be a lot easier to check. Large F-shaped brackets are fitted to the sponsons, which support the snake tubes, each of which is built from four sides and a separate front, which has the hollow muzzle and a representation of the rockets moulded-in. They slide in through the brackets and butt up against the rear plate attached earlier, with a number of locating pegs ensuring a good fit. Towing cables are made up from some of the supplied cord glued onto the plastic eyes, and an aerial is stretched out from sprue, and that's the kit done. The figure that is supplied is in cream resin as mentioned earlier, and has separate arms and head, with a single part providing the torso and legs. The detail is excellent and the casting is crisp with sensibly placed pouring blocks, which shows up the detail of the tanker's winter coveralls with integrated hood to great effect. The chap is relaxing with a hot cuppa while leaning against his tank, with a very natural pose, which is accentuated by the incredible fit of the parts. When you offer the arms up to the torso, there is along pin that fits into a corresponding hole, and once you have the correct position, the join between the two parts almost disappears. The head is similarly well done, although to me his neck could do with extending by a fraction, as when it is hard down into the socket he looks a bit lacking in the neck department. A small blob of Milliput in the socket would make that an easy correction, and any excess can be smoothed off with a damp blade before it cures. Markings There is only one option in the box, and for some reason you are incited to paint it Dark Earth, when almost every Churchill I've seen, including the box top photo is an olive drab(ish) colour. It's probably best to go with what you know for the main colour, but the instructions for the figure seem to be more appropriate. The decals on my review sample had merged with the protective paper, but most of it peeled away with a little effort. The rest was removed with a moist cotton bud, by rubbing gently side-to-side over the paper adhering to the decals. A few scraps remain, but these should float away when the decal is dumped in water. Conclusion An unusual variant of a fairly unsuccessful line of tanks that on initial release commanded quite a premium price that possibly scared away many potential purchaser. There should by now however be some more attractive offers available, so if you're a fan of the "funnies" or weird dead-end developments, maybe now is the time to pick one up. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of UK Distributors for
  5. AFV Club is to release a 1/144th Sikorky SH-3A Sea King kit - ref. AR14405 Source: https://www.facebook.com/AFVCLUB.TW/photos/a.1512888545423326.1073741955.236926266352900/1512888992089948/?type=3&theater V.P.
  6. As follow up to its Northrop (R)F-5E/F Tiger family, AFV Club is to release a Iranian 1/48th HESA F-5E Saeqeh-80 kit - ref. AR48111 Source: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1512888545423326.1073741955.236926266352900&type=3 V.P.
  7. A new 1/144th Chance Vought F4U Corsair kit is announced by AFV Club - ref AR14406 Source: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1512888545423326.1073741955.236926266352900&type=3 Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=233&v=8BQ8UD2e5qA V.P.
  8. Evening all, was back at work today but did finally manage to get this beauty finished over my days off this week. AFV Club F-5N straight out of the box. I do have a PJ Productions pilot to drop into the pit shortly and I did have to replace the AFV Club decals with a set of Two Bobs decals, fortunately for an aircraft in the same colour scheme! A bit disappointing the the kit decals didn't play ball but the quality of the Two Bobs sheet kinda made up for it. Main finish done with Tamiya acrylics airbrushed, details done in Vallejo acrylics. Klear used before and after decalling and weathering done using with Promodeller Dark dirt wash, Tamiya smoke, pastels and silver pencil. Photo's taken outside with my trusty phone so hope the pics are up to scratch, nose pitot probe lasted less than 30 secs!! Will replace it with a section of needle I think. Hope you like! I'm in love with her 😉 Eng
  9. Good evening, Had the opportunity to flash up the airbrush today now that the kids are back to school and this weeks shifts are done! I've had this AFV Club F-5N pretty much since the kit was released but it stalled after I put the first of the colours on it. Today I've managed 2 rounds of fiddly masking and painting, oh how did I ever put up with Xtracrylix in my airbrush, Tamiya forever now! I have just managed a first coat of Klear as well before retiring for the evening. After another coat of Klear I'll be looking to decals this bad boy aggressor, but wondered if there's any issues or things to watch with AFV Club decals as I haven't used them before. I'd normally use Microset/sol or Klear, how do AFV decals react to Microset/sol? Quick pic for those interested (I have progressed the KH Su-17 as well but that's for later!) Eng
  10. 1/35 AFV Club M35a1 Vietnam Gun Truck with Bravo 6 and Verlinden figures along with an awful lot of paint brush bristles. Thanks for looking Si
  11. After what seems like an age of no plastic modelling , I decided to go for something I wouldn't normally choose just by way of a change . I settled on something Modern-ish and something U.S. Finally after reading a lot of great things about AFV Club's M60 Patton series I couldn't wait to try one for myself . Opting for the M60A2 because I really like the look of this vehicle , even though by U.S. Military standards they were relatively short lived and a little unpopular ,they were for a short time at least ,a part of the vanguard that would help protect Europe from the "Red Tide" who would invade and overwhelm western forces should WW3 erupt . The kit itself is a really nice kit with some really neat things going on inside the box like textures a nice drivers station interior and a rear section that's all ready to accept an aftermarket engine . This will be a relatively slow build as I plan to adapt a voyager etch set made fro the M60A1 for parts of this build and also some of the textures area little over the top in places and in others either too dissimilar or non existent . I will also be doing some additional detailing along the way and finally converting the crew figures ...eventually . So here's the kit box and overflowing contents ...this is a very full box ! The Lower hull is a very nice slide moulded item , the Cast texture though is a little overboard and looks akin to pebble dashing , There's also a few large mould seam lines to deal with . My copy seems to be suffering in a little mould misalignment though , this impacts on some key areas such as the large flat areas where the plates mount to build the suspension arms onto . Lots of nice features though such as the casting/foundry marks including the "G shield" of manufacturers General Steel . To my eye these also look a little bit too sharp but they'll doubtless be fine for most . These interesting Circular marks are to be removed , they're what I hope are marks to mount Blazer armour to in a future release ? A M60 RISE and an IDF Magach 6 would be nice eh ? So I began this project by trying to calm down the heavy pebble texture with 800 grade Wet or dry paper , This actually gave a much more convincing "Cast" look and I'm quite pleased with the result . Maybe I wont need to Mr surfacer it after all ? , Next I began work on the Turret mouldings . I didn't take a photo of their "Before" state but they are almost devoid of texture completely . I think AFV Club listened to critique regarding the texture and dialled it back .. almost completely . Anyhow I started to add cast texture using a 1mm round dental burr and a very fine 0.5mm round diamond burr in my motor tool , the speed setting was slow at first and then turned up for subsequent passes . This will give me the multi layered effect of a cast surface . Finally I brushed out some solvent cement over the entire turret to help soften things out a little . Incidentally upon test fitting the turret halves I found a strange anomaly , it appears it may be mould misalignment ? but I will have to do some blending in . Need to find out the shape of the real turret . The opposite side seems to mate a lot cleaner . Lastly It was time to add some smooth marks and some linear marks to the upper turret edges to simulate areas where the raw casting was ground and finished at the foundry and also to simulate more of the layering effect of laminations to the steel . These were made with the tip of my scalpel blade and point respectively . this was then partially softened and melted with solvent cement . Throughout I have been using photos of Jacques Littlefield's M60A2 for surface effects . More soon , thanks for looking ! Jim .
  12. Dear Colleagues Wanting a break from 1/72 scale aircraft for a while I fetched my 1/35 AFV club Valentine out of the attic. I added Bronco early tracks. I was inspired by a picture of troops clambering over Valentines probably in 1941. Believed to be the new establishment of Guards Armoured being shown the tanks of 17th/21st Lancers. The figure was from Passion models I think Hope you like it? Andrew
  13. After more than 10 years of entering AFV's in the competition at Telford, I finally picked up a trophy. This one got the best model of an Allied AFV of WWll from IPMS Czech Republic. It's the Academy Honey M3 with AFV Club's suspension and tracks and MB Modellbau's horseshoe turret. There are also a lot of scratch built items such as the sand shields and the large stowage box over the engine deck. AFV Club's suspension and tracks are superior to Academy's items and fitted to the Academy hull with no problems. I changed the turret for the MB Modellbau one as Academy's hexagonal version is incorrect for this tank. The figures came from various sources and have had their arms and legs repositioned and the heads placed with Hornet items. The stowage is a mixture of Resicast, Value Gear and Accurate Armour. The .303 mg is from RB Models and the decals are curtesy of Bison Decals. A very enjoyable build. Regards, John.
  14. #25/2016 After the Humber IV, my dad has finished the next in-between armour model, this time the Baby Tiger from AFV Club. The kit is as good as a Tamiya one, the vinyl tracks went on trouble-free. The only, typical for AFV Club, problem were the crappy decals but my dad managed to get them onto the model. Painted with Gunze and Tamiya acrylics. The model shows a tank of the "schwere SS Panzerabteilung 102", still in pristine condition before rolling into Normandy action.
  15. New AFV Club Model Kits for August 2016

    AFV Club have some new Kits and Accessories for us this month, all available to order now. For full details, please see our newsletter.
  16. M109 Doher

    My first work in progress, mainly because I never remember to take photos! So as an experiment, most of these will be taken on my Iphone and posted via Flickr with a view to kicking Photobucket into touch. This is the AFV Club M109A2 kit (as you can hopefully see) with the Black Dog conversion kit. So the obligatory box shots. Untitled by phil da greek, on Flickr Untitled by phil da greek, on Flickr So the photos worked! And not to shabby IMHO. Anyone with any experience of building the kit (or the real thing) then pitch in with any tips or photos etc. The aim is to display the gun in a firing position with it's crew doing various things. Already it's out of control. This will be long and it probably won't be pretty, but pull up a chair shipmates, I'm going in!
  17. New AFV Club Model Kits for June 2016

    There is a great selection of new and re-released model kits from AFV Club due for release in June. For full details, please see our newsletter.
  18. Hello chaps The model presented was a part of the F-5 group build. More on the build can be found on this link: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234991709-afv-148-f-5f-tunisian-af/ for more info and pics of the finished model, please check: http://militaryaviation148.blogspot.si/2016/01/f-5f-tiger-armee-de-lair-tunisienne.html Thanks for looking in
  19. Last night I finally finished the last of my first handful of aggressor F-5Es. It is the lovely AFV Club F-5E kit with Wolfpack ejection seat (the kit only comes with the old type of seat). Paints are mainly Xtracolor, and the decals are from the great Afterburner Decals sheet for aggressor F-5s. I have eight more AFV Club F-5E/F/Ns on the bench at the moment, so this won't be the last F-5 from me you will see here. Jens
  20. This was my project for the Vietnam II GB over in the Group Build section. Kit: 1/35 AFV Club Extras: AFV Club track links - kindly supplied by snapper_city Pegasus Camouflage netting Academy Allied and German Tank Supplies Set II AFV Club 20Pdr. Gun Ammo Paints: Humbrol and Revell Acrylics - Humbrol Spray can for the base colour - all other paints applied by hairy sticks. This was my first proper 1/35 AFV build - I practiced first on the old Tamiya Panzer Kampfwagen II Ausf.F/G kit in the Achtung Panzer GB earlier in the year.The WIP for this build can be found here. There are quite a few photos. In Country; Some close-ups: So thats my last completion for 2015. Roll on 2016s builds! I'd like to thank everyone who contributed to this and all my other builds during the year - as Ive said before; none of them would be what they are without the advice, suggestions and support of fellow Britmodellers. Thank you. Happy New Year! Kind regards, Stix
  21. Well I've given up trying to resist joining in on this GB and thought I would throw my hat in the ring with an AFV Club 1/48 F-5F that I will build as an aircraft operated by the Islamic Republic of Iran Air Force. Iran is probably the most important operator of this classic aircraft and has used every model from the F-5A through to the F-5F and is now producing it's own upgraded versions, in fact Iran (then the Imperial Iranian Air Force) was the first country to operate the aircraft when their F-5A's were delivered in February 1965. The kit I will be using is the by now familiar AFV Club F-5F which seems to have some very good details both inside and outside the airframe. I will be building pretty much out of the box but will add a few homemade details to the seats and cockpit area. Anyway here are the ubiquitous box and contents pictures.... The kit does come with markings for an Iranian machine (and a very tempting Jordanian one!) but I will be using a set from Hi-Decal which has markings for 3 F-5E's and one F-5F all in Iranian markings. The markings are for an F which is still in use today and has a large Tigers head one on side of the tail and an Eagle on the other, I am unsure whether to use these tail markings or to build an aircraft as it would have looked during the Iran-Iraq War, here are some pictures of the decals and the option on the sheet that I will use in one way or another.... Hopefully I will be able to get some work done tomorrow and be able to post an update either then or early next week. Thanks for looking. Craig.
  22. Bussing NAG 4500A w/ Bilstein 3T crane AFV Club 1:35 The foundation of the company Bussing goes back to the year 1903. Bussing is considered the oldest German lorry manufacturer. In 1931 Bussing took over AEG daughter company NAG and became Bussing-NAG. This company manufactured many lorry types from 1.5 ton to 11.5 tons payload. The Bussing-NAG type 500 was manufactured from 1939 to 1941. Beginning in 1940, it was designated Bussing-NAG type 500 S. It was propelled by a 6 cylinder, 105 HP diesel engine and had a payload of 4.75 tons. The Bussing-NAG type 500A was developed in the beginning of 1939. It was made in small numbers from late 1940 to 1942. Unlike to the Bussing-NAG type 500S it had all wheel drive. The Bussing-NAG type 4500 S was the successor model of the Bussing-NAG type 500S. Outwardly, it looked different, but it was based on the same technology. It was manufactured from 1942 to 1945. A whole range of alterations were introduced into the series production units of the Bussing-NAG 4500, especially to type 4500A. Nearly 15,000 units of the type 4500 A/S were manufactured until the end of Second World War. The Model The kit is a variant of the previously released NAG 4500S and instead of the flat bed, it is fitted with a Bilstein 3T crane. The box style is typical AFV Club with a photo style picture of the built up kit with a black and white background. Inside the top opening box it is literally stuffed full of sprues. There are fifteen sprues of yellow styrene, one of clear styrene, a small etched sheet, a small decal sheet, seven vinyl tyres, a length of string and four ultra small metal parts, (so small in fact that I couldn’t get a photo of them). Naturally, being from AFV Club, this is highly detailed kit, with lots of parts, so not suitable for novice modellers, in fact it may be a challenge for even an intermediate modeller. Whilst all the parts are cleanly moulded, with some finely rendered details there is a small amount of flash,, but only on a couple of parts. There doesn’t appear to be any signs of other imperfections, but there are a lot of moulding pips. The tyres, although not to everyones taste are very well moulded with very fine tread detail, (certainly for road use, not cross country), and sidewall details, including the manufacturers name. As with most truck kits, most of the detail is on the chassis and suspension parts, and this is no different, so care and attention to the instructions and parts placement will be needed to get all the wheels to sit on the ground correctly as it looks like it will be relatively easy to get the chassis slightly skewed. As with most truck kits the chassis is the first section to be assembled. Consisting of two longitudinal rails which are joined together via six cross members, the rear most one being fitted with a four piece towing hitch with its associated spring mounted behind the cross member. Two five piece accumulator tanks are then fitted, one on each chassis rail whilst the four part exhaust/silencer is threaded through the mid section cross members and out to the left hand side. The front bumper is then fitted with two reflectors and number plate before being attached to the front of the chassis rails. On each rail, two footstep support brackets are attached, followed by the front mudguards, which have the footsteps moulded integrally. The two piece fuel tank is then fitted to the right hand rail via two triangular brackets. To the rear of the chassis, the two reflector arms are attached, and then fitted with the reflectors and the rear number plate to the left hand arm. Up forward the radiator is fitted along with the single hooded headlight and two open headlights, which come with clear lens parts. The two differentials are then assembled, the rear from five parts and the front from no less than twenty six parts, which include the very detailed, and thusly, complex, steering mechanism. The differentials are fitted to the leave spring assemblies, which, in turn are attached to the chassis. Each of the four wheels are built up with an inner hub which has a poly cap fitted into it, followed by the outer hub, then the vinyl tyres are slipped over the rims, and the centre hub glued into place. The wheels are then attached to the axles. Assembly moves onto the engine, which is made up from two halves of the block, to which the cylinder heads are attached, followed by the alternator, auxiliary drive cover and exhaust manifold. The gearbox is then assembled from eight parts, and then fitted with the two piece bell housing before being glued to the engine assembly, which is then fitted with the sump block. The engine is further detailed with the fitting of the intake manifold, three piece air filter unit, coolant pipes, fan belt and fan. The engine/gearbox assembly is then fitted to the chassis, along with the transfer box and the three driveshafts, each having separate universal joints. The gear leaver is then attached to the top of the gearbox. The assembly of the cab begins with the fitting of the foot pedals and hand brake lever, as well as a couple of fixing brackets to the floor. The bench seat base is then fitted, being topped off with a single piece seat cushion. The rear bulkhead is fitted with the single piece seat back, rear window and two hand holds. The interior of the front cab section is detailed with the fitting of the instrument binnacle, switchbox, two windscreens and a couple of fuse boxes. The three cab assemblies are then joined together and the roof fitted. On top of the roof there is a small light fitting complete with clear lens, along with two grab handles, two more of which are fitted to the sides of the rear bulkhead. The cab assembly is attached to the chassis, with the previously fitted gear stick, threaded through the hole in the cab floor. The steering column is, likewise slid into a hole in the floor and attached to the steering rack, before being fitted with the steering wheel. The bonnet centre bar is then fixed between the cab and the radiator. Each door consists of a single piece door, clear window part plus internal and external door handles. These can be fitted to the cab either open or closed positions. The four piece bonnet, with additional PE mesh fitted to the inside of the grille, and pioneer tools to each side panel, is then fitted over the engine. Unfortunately the bonnet sections cannot be posed open without resorting to some surgery. Just aft of the cab there is a large tool box, which is made up from eleven parts, inside there is a space for the spare wheel to be fitted, an eight piece manual winch, and a large catch that holds the spare wheel panel in place. On the rear panel two tool holders are fitted to opposing sides, whilst under the outer edges of the tool box the four piece Jerry can holder and six piece stowage bin are attached, before the whole assembly is fitted to the chassis. Behind the tool box the truck bed, assembled from two longitudinal rails and four cross members, is fitted to the chassis rails via eight U clamps. The actual bed itself is fitted with the six part crane turntable, two storage boxes, two rear light clusters, the two rear wheel arches, each fitted to the bed with two supports, and three cross beams. The bed is then glued into position, followed by the tool box lid and more pioneer tools, with their associated brackets. Two axle stand assemblies are then fitted to the rear of the tool box, whilst the paraphernalia required for the crane is fitted to eh bed, these include various lengths of pole, eyes, hooks and lifting beams. Five Jerry cans are then assembled and slid into their respective slot in the rack, and “locked” off with a large strap. We finally come to the crane itself. The jib is made up form five parts, with seven piece jib extender being fitted to the lifting end. The left hand side of the crane housing is made from three parts, into which the cable drums, with the string provided, wrapped around them, and ends left free, spacers and guides are fitted. The single piece right hand panel is then glued into place with the ends of the various shafts and axles slotted through the panel. The housing is partially closed off with three panels at the front and the upper guide wheel frame fitted to the rear of the roof and a long handle to the left hand side panel. The jib assembly is the attached to the cable housing, followed by the string being passed through the various guide wheels and onto the three piece hook assembly. The completed crane is then mounted onto the turntable fitted to the truck bed. The kit comes with the option of having the four stabilising legs deployed or folded, depending on how the modeller wishes to depict their model. Each rear leg consists of eight parts, whilst the front legs consist of seven. The last part to be fitted is the tool box side panel, covering the spare wheel. On the outside of this panel, two folding legs are attached, allowing the panel to be posed either open or closed. This then completes the build. Decals The small decal sheet actually has quite a few decals on it. There are mostly stencils for the crane, which seems to be covered in them. The rest are the individual truck markings for the three schemes included on the colour charts. NAG 4500A from StuG Abt.209 on the Eastern Front 1942/43 in Panzer Grey overall NAG 4500A from Panzergrenadier Division “Grobdeutschland” on the Eastern Front in Autumn 1943 in a rather purple looking German Grey. NAG 4500A of the 1st Company SPzAbt. 501, based in Tunisia in the Winter of 1942/43 in overall green brown with olive green splotches on the front half of the vehicle. Conclusion There’s not a lot more I can say, other than being an AFV Club kit it is quite complex and detail wise, complete. There is so much you can do with this truck though, with endless possibilities for diorama settings or vignettes. Modify some troops from the spares box for the crew and away you go. It is a very nice kit, but as I said at the top of this review, not one for the beginner. It’s definitely one to test your patience and dexterity, especially as there are some really, really small parts. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of UK Distributors for
  23. M1132 Stryker ESV Update Set (for AFV Club) 1:35 ET Model This is a highly detailed Photo-etch (PE) and styrene update kit (and it does deserve the term "kit") from our friends at ET Model, which arrives in their usual thick polythene package with all the large frets taped to black backing card, and smaller parts sub-bagged to protect them from damage, and from damaging other parts. Inside the two bags that are held together with the green header card, there is a LOT of brass. Four cards hold five frets of PE, while three smaller frets nestle in a ziplok bag with ten x 10cm 0.6mm diameter ABS rod. In the rearmost bag the light green instruction booklet takes the form of three pages of double-sided A4, walking you through the process from start to finish. The first item of note is a minor mistake on the instructions, which state that a length of wire and three mini-springs are included in the package. They aren't, and aren't used in the build, but there is a tiny fret of PE that isn't noted, so someone hasn't cut & pasted things together quite right. ET Model's instructions take the same format no matter what you are building, with sub-assemblies built up in their own lettered or numerically annotated step to be brought together later in the construction phase. Once you get that straight, they become much easier to follow. In the set you get highly detailed parts to upgrade or completely replace the following parts of the model: Upgraded Steering rack Replacement Trapezoid stowage boxes with working hinges Replacement suspension covers Replacement twin stowage "shelves" on the rear of the vehicle Replacement locking mechanism and protective panels on the rear door Upgraded light clusters Replacement highly detailed winch guides Upgraded wing mirrors and horn assembly Replacement side stowage boxes with highly detailed new parts on both sides Replacement pioneer tool stowage rack with tie-downs Upgraded crew access hatches with handles, locking mechanisms and interior detail Upgraded remote gun mount Replacement ammo box for the remote gun station Upgraded remote weapon, with Mk.19 grenade launcher or M2 derivative .50cal machine gun Replacement brackets on the vehicle roof Replacement wire-cutter upstands on driver's deck and main deck These assemblies are all highly detailed, and where upgrade is the chosen route, you will often need to remove substantial parts of the original to accomplish the task, but it is always worth the effort. The side stowage racks are works of art in themselves, and this is where substantial sections of the ABS rod are used, bent to templates printed on the instructions for your ease. You could replace these with brass rod if you are doing any soldering, but ET are to be applauded for including these small parts, where a great many don't. A huge quantity of tie-down lugs are added to the top of each of the large stowage racks, which will take a fair amount of time to finish, and is best done toward the end to avoid damage to the delicate parts. Conclusion This is a high quality set that will give your Stryker a comprehensive lift in the detail department, as well as replacing simplified or over-scale parts with more representative parts, thereby increasing realism both in detail and scale. The resulting model will be light-years ahead of the original, which is already pretty nice. Check out their pictures of the finished model here. Very highly recommended. Review Sample courtesy of
  24. AFV Club news | 6.10.15

    Büssing NAG Crane Truck (AF35279) from AFV Club is now available. Also, a new tooling by AFV Club, is a P-40B/C in 1/144 scale (AR144S01), with markings for American Volunteer Group China 1942, 3rd Sqn "Hells Angels", pilot Charles H. Older. Comes neatly packaged the old way, in a bag on a card. http://www.pocketbond.co.uk/NewReleases.aspx?id=0&page=1&ipp=25
  25. This October AFV Club are releasing a great 1/35 Bussing NAG L4500A German Kfz 100 with a Bilstein 3T Plastic Model Kit to add to your collection. This great kit includes new injected crane parts, fantastic detailing and some precision photo-etch parts! Well worth a look! For full details, please see our newsletter here.