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Robert Stuart

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About Robert Stuart

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    South Bucks
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    Sticking stuff together.

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  1. Thank-you @bissyboat. I've done more work on that foresail, and have most of the running rigging in place. The foresail was to be lowered. To that end, I put it under the bathroom tap for a second or so. This made the material soft and flexible, easy to manipulate. It also melted the (generic PVA) glue attaching the edge ropes to the sail. OK. The one rope that wasn't detached was the spiral wound around the forestay. This proved difficult to manage as I was lowering the sail, so ... off it came, to be replaced with homemade wire rings. The wire rings are much easier to manage in this task, allowing the (re-wetted) sail cloth to droop easily. When the sail was dry, I replaced the edge ropes and halyards. Other rigging lines are in place, with just the loose ends to tidy up:
  2. I believe so, I worked from photos of the glider on the ground.
  3. Seeing @Adam Poultney's post reminded me of this. In pastel, the drawing was a commission from a lady who had recently sold the glider.
  4. @JOCKNEY Check out DK Decals P-39/P-400 sets - they have some US schemes (e.g. https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/DKD72114?result-token=MGySj) {edit}Sorry, P-63 was larger than P-39{/edit} You might find some French options out there. Or, if you like racers and a little conversion, look for Draw Decals - they have some attractive schemes (though I never tried their product - https://www.drawdecal.com/?s=p63&post_type=product&type_aws=true).
  5. Rigging progress. I've made the sails, and added hearts and deadeyes to the stays. The main components of the rigging, including sails: The sails are made from two layers of teabag paper, 'glued' with acrylic paint. The paper has a rough side, and a smooth side. In this case I have the rough side out, in a smaller sail, I'd use the smooth side outside. The standing rigging and sails have been attached, along with some of the running rigging.
  6. You'll be missed Bertie, but real life takes precedence. Be back at the bench soon.
  7. Thanks Bertie. I'll experiment with glues and varnishes. Progress. I've, finally, made a new sprit (yard arm) - it's the stick to the right here. The sprit started as a length of 5mm square wood lime wood (aka basswood or linden). Looking at that photo, the sprit looks a little short to my eye. That said, shown without the hull or sail (yet to be made), many of my visual clues are missing. I'll stay with this one for now, but may make a longer version later. Other thoughts I wasn't planning to. I then thought that this is going to be an open boat, with sail set, but no crew. Could happen, but not an ideal situation. I have some Historex parts in my spares box. Historex figures were intended as, mainly French, mostly Napoleonic, 54mm figures and accessories. 54mm is, about, the right size for 1/32 scale figures; the same scale as this kit. Give it a go ... Hmm. These fellows seem to give the boat some sense of scale. The guy at the tiller A bit of chopping and carving, and that guy at the tiller looks like this: A change of upper torso, and a bit of animation. The standing sailor is more challenging. Initial thoughts are that he'll adopt this pose: As a source for clothing styles, I'll look to David Teniers the elder (1582-1649). He's another Dutch painter, but one who'd've been about 25 at the time of John Smith's American visit.
  8. Maybe, but I doubt many full size builders work quite that fast. Looks like good progress Bertie, even with all that re-learning.
  9. Lee boards and anchor The lee boards are on. The hinge is a chain. The kit's producer would have us make the chain from this etch: That's all very well, but ... the parts are small. Very small. Very small, and no spares. All of this makes an ideal hors d'oeuvre to the carpet monster. Such an impatient fellow, he (she?) took the first piece off the sprue, and so greedy as to swallow the part in one snap. A quick change of plan led to me using ready-made brass chain (brass, 18 links per inch chain). This did need to be squeezed at each end, to make it fit, But the new chain seems to work: Another addition to the boat is its anchor The starboard lee board, retracted: The port lee board, deployed: I need to work out how to add tension or droop to the rope there - any suggestions?
  10. Side keels? Lee boards? Either name works for me. (OT: leeboards come with a variety of spellings.) They work much like centre boards, but (in theory) are easier to set up, and are less likely to be damaged in shallow waters. Painting the shallop has continued. I am using a brown hull; raw umber in this case, though this brand looks dark enough for burnt. I think the colour is close to that used by late 17C marine artists Willem van de Velde. (This shallop is supposed to be ~1607, so early 17C) See what you think: https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/artists/willem-van-de-velde Details have been added, including the thwart at the mast position, rubbing plates for the oars and a cleat at the bow. The observant may notice I've moved the sheaves(? pulleys) on top of the side rail back a bit. A major advantage of PVA glue is that a bit of heat will soften it (I used a hot air gun, with a fresh scalpel blade to encourage separation). Detail work has moved on: Two boat hooks, an axe, an anchor, and five blocks (pulleys) on their varnishing rail, Those blocks have been given straps(?); one for the foresail and a pair for the sprit (yard arm). Oh, and those leeboards have changed colour, and gained some reinforcing straps:
  11. That is good progress, Bertie, though I don't envy you your issues with CA fumes. Hope you can find a better solution. Be well Robert
  12. Thanks, Bertie. Progress Work has started on the standing rigging. There was rope supplied with the kit, but, it is a polymer thread, that tends to explode: This is meant for the standing rigging. The straggle at the top is where I cut off a sealed (melted) end, twisted the cord tighter and let go. That seems unmanageable to me, so I got some Mantua thread. Since they only do black or hemp/linen thread, I went with the latter and painted it. The fore stay, with an untidy splice, and two pair of seized shrouds. Despite the photo, these are a very dark brown. Other stuff The wood work for the top rail is complete, including space and support for the oars. lee-boars Also, underway are the rudder (+ tiller), lee-boards and an axe. These all require metal fittings that require soldering and blacking - a task I've been putting off, but must address soon.
  13. Good to see you back with L'O OT: I'm slow, and I dare say it has been said before, (maybe by you?), but ... Bertie's Boatyard make a nice alliteration. For the bow and larger voids, would packing (balsa) help? Or, is that even more shaping? They perform a similar function, and I'd use either term.
  14. Thanks guys. I've been a bit quiet here, working on details. Things like filler for the hull. Unfortunately, the filler I chose shows under varnish, so I'll be painting the shallop's hull. The thwarts (benches) have been varnished, and most have been glued to the boat. Knees (angle blocks) have been added to the thwarts, each with a pin. The pins were pre-cut, but needed cleaning up, and slotting through holes in the knees - all about 3-4 mm long. Above all this, the boat's rail has been added. Other clean up has included these parts: Shown are cleaned up parts and (still scorched) spares. The bronze wire in the deadeyes (bottom right) was to keep the holes clear while gluing (deadeyes and hearts are each three layer sandwiches). In my last post, I suggested re-arranging the rigging on this model. I now have some tea-bag paper for the sail. In the US, some modellers suggest using SilkSpan. So far as I know, this is unobtainable in the UK, but tea-bag paper is supposed to be a suitable substitute.
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