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Shar2

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Shar2 last won the day on November 5 2012

Shar2 had the most liked content!

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About Shar2

  • Rank
    Wibble!
  • Birthday 27/08/65

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sunbury, Middx
  • Interests
    Maritime and AFV modelling.
    Photography

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  1. Vosper 72' 6" MTB

    Great project. I'm currently building the same kit as Claude Holloway's MTB 242. Have the same Griffon etched sets and Breda.
  2. Aoshima - are they rare?

    I've built a couple of their ship kits and have more in the stash. I think they are very good, can't comment on their other stuff though.
  3. Mitsubishi A6M Zero Detail Sets 1:32 CMK The Hasegawa A6M Zero has been around a long time, from 1978 in fact and that boxing is still available, as well as a couple of more recent new toolings. The six resin sets reviewed here can be used on any of Hasegawas releases, with a greater or lesser amount of preparatory work required by the modeller, depending on the kit used. While some of the sets are drop in replacement with more finesse than can be achieved with plastic, others will require the modeller to take a knife and sanding stick to the kit parts to fit the resin. All the resin parts will need to be removed from their moulding blocks and cleaned up, but this is a pretty simple task, with any cleaning up required only on surfaces that will not be seen once fitted. 5117 – Flaps. This set includes the moving section of the flap as well as the interior roof of the flap bay. To fit requires the kit flap to be cut away on the lower wing and the upper wing section thinned down until the roof section fits snugly. The moulding blocks are on the leading edges of each section and will not take much to part it off and clean up. The time will be taken up with thinning the roof down I’d imagine. But will look great when all is down and the resin fitted. 5118 – Tail Cone. This set requires the modeller to take a saw or knife to the kit and cut off the tail cone, beneath the rudder. In its place are resin parts for the rear bulkhead, tail wheel assembly, with separate shock absorber and wheel, and new tail cone halves. 5119 – Main Undercarriage Bays. These are almost drop in replacements as once the moulding blocks have been removed, and the upper wing plastic reduced in thickness, they are just glued into position. A little more work than using the plastic parts, but the detail is so much nicer. Do be careful when removing the moulding blocks though as some areas of the bay roof are quite thin already. 5120 – Undercarriage Doors. The main gear doors contained in this set are direct replacements for the kit parts, only much thinner and accurate. They include both outer and inner doors, as well as their respective actuators and clamps, but also require a couple of smaller kit parts to be used as well. 5121 – Wing Fuel Tanks. Now, this set is purely for those who want to go that little bit further with detailing their model and allowing diorama possibilities. The set includes two bays, two fuel tanks with some nice detailing, as well as the wing skin covers. You will first of all need to identify and remove the correct areas of the lower wing, which, looking at the kit isn’t that easy, fit the bays from the inside, fit the tanks and place the covers where you want within the diorama. Q32 277 – Wheels. This set is part of CMK Easy Line of resin replacements, and consists of just the two main wheels with a slight bulge tow show the aircraft has a bit of weight to it. Just remove the moulding blocks from the contact point of the wheel, clean up with a couple of swipes from a sanding stick then glue to the axle of the kit main legs. Job jobbed. Conclusion Care and patience will be needed to achieve a good fit will be the order of the day with some of these sets, whilst the others a more plug and play. A great selection of items from CMK, of course you don’t have to use them all, just whatever you feel comfortable with doing or what you want to achieve, so great for all abilities in one way or another. Review sample courtesy of
  4. A few from Kiev

    Having also just returned from Kiev, I will be writing and article on both the aircraft museum at Zhulyany and tank museum at the Motherland Memorial.
  5. I do just that. Then upload that with the other photos for Julien to help him identify the photos too.
  6. Mi-24 Hind? Ident help

    @ScimitarI highly recommend Zhulyany, it's a great museum. There's another one near Poltava, but that is a 5 hour train ride to get to.
  7. Mi-24 Hind? Ident help

    Well I have sent all my photos to Julien for adding to the walkaround section, so keep your eyes peeled.
  8. Mi-24 Hind? Ident help

    Yes, they renamed it in 2015 as a de-communisation of Ukraine. I was referring to the other Hind V, so we were talking at cross purposes.
  9. Mi-24 Hind? Ident help

    What hills, what AFV? There's a Mil 4 to the left of the Hind. Since Zhulyany is the only place I've been to in Ukraine I cannot have got my photos mixed up. and you can see the buildings on the other side of the airport. You can see the V behind the A here. If you're talking about the first picture, yes, that is the Museum of the Armed Forces of Ukraine in World War 2. Not known as the Great Patriotic War museum anymore.
  10. Mi-24 Hind? Ident help

    Actually it's at Zhulyany. Kiev. I took the photo at Easter.
  11. I've used the previous edition of this set in a diorama and they do look the business when accompanying a military vehicle.
  12. Russian Navy Helicopter Colours

  13. Russian Navy Helicopter Colours

    The hormone in the Zhulyany aircraft museum is overall blue. Will upload a pic in a bit.
  14. Oil Stains

    DTD 585, the standard hydraulic oil used goes a very dark dirty red/brown when exposed to air and dries to a sticky mess. I have some on my hanger/laboratory floor from the Learjet I look after at Uni. I'll take some pics when I get back to work before I clean both the floor and the under fuselage panels. It was also a mess down the sides of the Sea King Mk4's I worked on in another life.
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